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TRAVELS , 

'^/'^U^^ ,A/ THROUGH THE /^^y'^^^^ '^ 

UNITED STATES 6F AMERICA, 

/ ^. IN THE YEARS <' " • '^* 

1806 % 1807, and 1809(^1810, ^ 1811 j 

INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF 
PASSAGES BETWIXT AMERICA ^ BRITAIN, 

AND TRAVELS THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OP 

Britain, Irrianti, antr Canatia. 

WITH CORRECTIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS 

TILL 1815. 

ILLUSTRATED BY COLOURED MAPS AND PLANS. 



BY JOHN MELISH. 



WITH AN APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING A LETTER FROM CLEMENTS BURLEIGH, ESQ 

TO IRISH EIVUGRANTS REMOVING TO AMERICA, 

AND HINTS, 

BY THE SHAMROC SOCIETY, NEW-YORK. 

TO EMIGRANTS FROM EUROPE. 



Philadelphia ; printed for the Aufho 
REPRINTED BY JOS. SMYTH, 

34, HIGH-STREET, 

Plau 1, 1818, 



j, ll*"** 



/6- 






4. 



7 94 



PREFACE. 



i-l 



'0g'0eie 



The journal of a traveller, when judiciously compiled, pi-esents a 
living picture of the state of the country through which he pas- 
ses; while the interest that is excited by the narrative gratifies the 
fancy, and combines to render this at once an entertaining and 
instructive species of reading. Hence we find that books of tra- 
vels have of late multiplied to a great extent, and are always in 
demand with the public. The field is inexhaustible, and must 
continue so while society is in a progressive state. 

No country presents a more ample field for inquiry than the 
United States of America ; and it is equally imp rtant, whether 
we view it in regard to the inhabitants of America or of Bri- 
tain. The former find themselves in possession of an immense 
territory, a great part of which is still unoccupied, or very thin- 
ly inhabited, so that there is room for the industry of thousands of 
generations yet unborn ; and as if by the special order of Provi- 
dence, mankind are invited into the most distant regions of the 
country, by the advantages of soil and climate, no where exf-eod- 
ed in the world. Sprung from the only country which, at the pe- 
riod of the settlement of America, possessed any thing like ration- 
al freedom, the principles of the popular branch of the British con- 
btitution came into practical o})eration, unalloyed by the feudal 
system. These principles have since been matured into the full 
developement of the representative system, and are now consoli- 
dated and confirmed in the habits and manners of the peoole; 
conferring a degree of freedom on mankind, unknown in Eu- 
rope, and securing to industry the reward of its merit, — peace and 
plenty. Hence the progress of population, of agriculture, of ma- 
nufactures, of the arts and sciences, and of civilization, have been 
rapid beyond all former example. The contemplation of the sub- 
ject is animating to the mind ; it inspires confidence in the future 
destinies of the world, and calLlbrth sentiments of gratitude to the 
supreme Disposer of all events. 

The inhabitants of Britain behold in America a people spruno- 
mostly from the same ancestor's with themselves ; tliey .speak the 
same language, they have the same manners and habits, and they 
are in a considerable degree governctl by the same law.s. Their 
surplus commodities, and their demand tor British manufactures 
}iave for a long period induced an exchange highly favourable to 
Britain. From these circumstances, a native of Britain finds him- 
self at home in America : and thou.'iiuids of industrious lamilici,, who 



VI PREFACE. 

have met with an hospitable reception and a happy asylum i« 
the land, can boar ample testimony to the value of it. The two na- 
tions are indeed tormed to be mutually beneficial to each other; and 
though Providence, for wise reasons, no doubt, has allowed the con- 
nection to be cut off for the present, yet it is to be hoped it will be 
again revived to mutual advantage ; for there is one hnk in the 
chain — the identity of language, which never can be dissolved. 

To the inhabitants of other countries America is also important, 
as it holds out the right hand of fellowship to all nations, unincum- 
bered by entangling alliances with any ; and though many who vi- 
sit the country for commerce or permanent settlement will necessa- 
rily for a time labour under some disadvantages, arising from a dif- 
ferent language and other local circumstances, yet they will find an 
hospitable reception, and an enjoyment of perfect freedom and 
security. 

When, in consequence of having formed a commercial connection 
in the United Staies, in the year 1806, it became necessary for me 
to visit that country, I had no intention of publishing my travels, 
nor did I think that my observations would have been sufficiently 
extensive or interesting to be laid before the public. But many 
circumstances have concurred to render them more important than 
I had originally imagined; and a second journey to the country led 
to an investigation, the result of which 1 now consider worthy of 
publication. The following brief review will illustrate my motives 
and design ; and it is with much deference submitted to a candid 
public. 

In the year 1T9S I made a vo^-age to the West Indies, during 
w'hich I laid the foundation of a series of studies on geography, 
astronomy, natural philosopliy, and chemistry, connected with na- 
vigation, and the theory of winds, tides, and currents, in the At- 
lantic Oceaii. My voyage to America afibrded an ample opportu- 
nity f'^r resuniing these studies, which I did not fail to take advantage 
of, and I accordingly kept a journal. After landing in America I 
continued my journal; and circumstances having occurred %vhich 
renderevl it necessary to make a more extended tour, and to reside 
longer in the country than 1 originally intended, I used every dili- 
gence in my power in making observations, and committing them 
lo writing. My tour was rapid; but m}' mode of procuring infor- 
mation v>'as sucii as I trust will render even that part of my journal 
iu>t uninteresting, particularly to those engaged in commerce. 

Previous to leaving Britain I liad perused all the " Travels in A- 
Tucrica" to which 1 had access; but the plan of none of them pleas- 
ed me, and I found many of them to contain such effusions of igno- 
rance and spleen, that 1 came to the resolution to discard the whole, 
and to take for the basis of my information the best map and ga- 
zetteer of the United States 1 could procure, and these were my 
constant companions in my travels through the country. When 1 



J»KEFAGE. V 

amved in a new state, I examined it in tbe niaj> and gazcUccv ; and 
the information derived from those I confirmed or corrected by 
personal observjition, and information tVo))i those to whdm I had 
access. I observed the like course v.iLii rog.ord to every district, 
town, village, lake, or river which I passed or saw; and having com- 
mitted the result to paper, in ilic shorte<?t manner possible, 1 com- 
piled my journal from these notes at my leisvn*e. In this manner I 
travelled through part of Georgia, South Carolina, New York, 
Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsyl- 
vania, Delaware, Mar3dand, District of Columbia, Vii-ginia, and 
North Carolina ; so that I had occasion to see and make observa- 
tions on all the Atlantic states, including the principal cities, 
rivers, bays, &c. on the eastern coast. 

Next year I returned to Britain, where I followed up my plan 
of making memorandums, principally by noticing the nature .of 
the American trade, and the manufactures in Britain calculated for 
America. 

The commercial pursuits in which I had been engaged having 
been interrupted, I returned to America in the year 1809, in or- 
der to re-organize the business, or to wind it up ; and, having oc- 
casion to travel extensively through the interior of Georgia, 1 ox- 
tended my remarks, and found an opinion forced upon me, that 
should the restrictions on commerce be of long duration, America 
would become a manufacturing country, and consequently would 
be in a great measure independent of Europe. That opinion re- 
ceived strength and confirmation during a residence in New York 
in 1810, where I was fruitlessly employed in looking out for mer- 
cantile employment. 

In the early part of the year 1811, having observed a regency In 
Britain without a change of councils, or the removal of the re- 
strictions on commerce, I considered that the commercial relations 
between America and Britain would not be speedily resumed, and 
considered it necessary to look out for other employment. In search 
of this I came to the resolution of making a tour into the interior 
of the country, and being assisted by some kind friends, I was en- 
abled to procure such a stock of valuable information, that I now 
thought it would be of importance to collect materials with a view 
to the publication of my whole travels, and to conduct mj' in- 
<]uiries, in my proposed tour, accordingly. 

1 his tour was periormed to my entire satisfaction, and the re- 
sult of my inquiries appeared so important that the publication 
was determined on, provided the plan met public approbation. 
With a view of ascertaining that point, a prospectus was issued, 
and a subscription list promoted, the result of which has exceeded 
my most sanguine exjiectation ; for though I was able to take the 
sense of but a small portion of the community comparatively, I ob- 
tained a very large and most respectable list of subscribers.* 

Encouraged by this honoinablc patronage, 1 have endeavoured 
to improve upon my original plan, and have added a great variet} 



VI JfREFACE. 

of matter not coRtemplated in the outlines, that the work might 
embody a complete geography of the United States. This is the 
first attempt that has come under my observation to incorporate a 
geographical description of a country in a journal of travels, and I 
hope it will not be without its use to the public. That it might be 
as complete as possible, I have noticed even those states and territo- 
ries that I did not travel througii, selecting those parts of the narra- 
tive tor their introduction that 1 thought would be most appropriate. 
In the description of the eastern states the population is given by 
the census of 1800, because that of 1810 was not taken when I tra- 
velled through them; but the statistical table and census of the 
United States introduced into the work, present a view of the po- 
pulation to the latter period, and I have occasionally added notes at 
some of the cities. At the close of the work I have added an alpha- 
betical index, which will serve in some respects the place of a 
gazetteer. 

In short, no pains nor cxpence has been spared to render the 
work worthy of public patronage; and with a view of making it 
acceptable to the whole public, 1 have avoided all notice of local 
politics, except sometimes a mere casual observation, not calculat- 
ed to reflect on any party. On the relations between this country 
and Britain I have been compelled to be more pointed. The late 
conduct of those who administer the affairs of England has not 
been of a nature merely s})eculative. It has involved a moral prin- 
ciple, and affected tlie best interests of the human race. The con- 
duct adopted towards the United States influenced my own pro- 
ceedinf^s in a very considerable degree. In conducting my narra- 
tive, it was absolutely necessary to notice it; and I have done so 
acrreeably to what I consider the rules of truth. Many of my 
readers may differ with me in opinion on this subject : to such X 
have merely to remark, that I have hazarded no opinion lightly, 
nor without due examination. My information has been drawn 
from the most correct sources, both in Britain and America. I 
have never been connected with any political party, and I am con- 
scious of being free from any bias, but a sacred regard for truth 
and justice. Still, however, errors may have escaped me: lam 
open to conviction ; and if they are pointed out, it will give me 
sincere pleasure to correct them. 

To my numerous and very respectable subscribers, and those 
o-entlemen who favoured me with information, 1 beg leave to re- 
turn my most sincere thanks for their encouragement and assistance ; 
and my thanks are due to the American public generally, for the 
kind attention with which I have been treated during my exten- 
sive travels through the country. 

On the other hand, 1 trust this work will be found not altoge- 
ther unworthy of public attention. Independent of the casual in- 
formation collected while I was engaged in other pursuits, it has 
been the result of incessant labour, of both body and mind, for near- 
ly two years, in which 1 have bad every aid that books, maps, charts, 



PREFACE. Vll 

and verbal information could give me. If it is found defective, I 
have no plea but want of capacity ; I have done my best. As the 
facts have been collected with great care, so they have been com- 
municated with a strict adherence to truth, and with a view of 
promoting the best interests of mankind, by a sincere friend, who 
has no motive for deceiving them. With these observations I con- 
sign the work to the tribunal of the public, and 1 shall bow with 
submission to their decree. 



Philadelphia, October 12, 1812. 



JOHN MELISH. 



POSTSCRIPT. 

The distinguished approbation which this work has received,* 
and the probability that there will be an increased demand for it 
in consequence of the peace which has happily been established 
between Britain and America, has induced the author carefully to 
revise it, to correct inaccuracies. 

PhiladelpJiia, March, 1815. 

* Extract of a Letter from Mr. Jefferson. 

I have read your Travels with extreme satisfaction and infonnation. As to tlic wes- 
tern states, particularly, it has greatly edified me ; for of the actual condition of that 
interesting portion of the country I had not an adequate idea. I feel myself now as . 
familiar with it, as with the condition of the maritime states. 

The candour with which you have viewed the manners and condition of our citizens, 
is so unlike the narrow prejudices of the French and English travellers preceding you, 
who, considering each the manners and habits of their own people as the only ortho- 
dox, have viewed every thing differing from that text as boorish and barbarous ; that 
your work will be read here extensively, and operate great good 

Extract Jrom the Port Folio. 

Here is a kind of phenomenon. Two whole volumes of Travels in America witliout 
any material errors ; with no palpable falsehoods ; no malignant abuse of individuals ; 
no paltry calumnies on the institutions of the United States. — The author is a plaiu 
practical man, whose observations are chiefly valuable on account of the stamp of trutlt 
and simplicity which they bear, and who has esamined the United States as many 
others are interested in regarding it, as a safe asylum for those w'ho are about to form, 
either commercial or agricultural establishments. He is obviously a shrewd and sensi- 
ble observer, and there is a clearness in his perceptions, and an accuracy in his details, 
wliicli is very satisfactory. This work contains a number of highly interesting «i'<i 
*urioHSi stafciitical papers, which add much to iti value. 



INTRODUCTION 

I SHALL commence my introductory remarks by a short de- 
scription of the Cily of Glasgow. 

Glasgow is situated on the north side of the river Clyde, at the 
head of the tide water. It is 400 miles from London, 42 from 
Edinburgh, and 22 from Greenock, which may be considered as 
its port. It is the second city in Scotland, and contained, by the 
enumeration of 1801, 77,385 inhabitants. The city is regularly 
built, and the houses, being all of free-stone, have a very ele- 
gant appearance. The public buildings are numerous, and many 
of them splendid ; among which may be reckoned the cathedral, 
the Infirmary, and the College buildings ; which last, though old 
and antiquated, are spacious, and the institution is esteemed one 
of the finest seminaries of education in Britain. , The manufac- 
tures of Glasgow have arisen to great extent and perfection, par- 
ticularly those of cotton. The principal articles of manufacture 
calculated for the United States are, fancy muslins (a sort of sta- 
ple commodity,) printed calicoes, ginghams, shirtings, hosiery, 
threads, tapes, earthen and glass ware, iron ware, &c. Glas'row 
is also a market for disposing of the manufactures of the other 
parts of Scotland, particularly of Dundee, Perth, and Fifeshire, 
buch as sail-cloth, cotton bagging, osnaburgs^ cotton and linen 
checks, and ticks — of Dunfermline, tabfe cloths, sheetings and 
towelings — of Stirling and Kilmarnock, carpeting, gloves, &c. 
The returns from America consist principally of cotton, of which 
Glasgow manufactures above 10,000 bales annually. 

Having served an ample apprenticeship to business in one of the 
pi'incipal manufacturing houses in Glasgow, I resolved, in the 
beginning of the year 1806, to commence business on my own 
account. I had long studied the trade to tlie United States of 
America, and was well aware of its importance to both countries c 
but the constant jealousies which had existed between them, dur- 
ing Mr. Pitt's administration, induced me to dtclnie embarking 
in it. Towards the close of the year 1805, a change of counsels 
took place in Brituin, ;u!d .it the head of the new Uiini&try was 
that great and enlightened stat'.snian, Charles Janie.s Fox, Fronn 
the known sentiments cf Mr. Fox, for justice and moderation^ 
1 calculated that every tiling would be amicably arranged between 
the two governments, for I never had any doubt as to the jubt 
and pacific policy oi the United States. 1 trusted in a lasting 
fiiern^iip between the two countries, and in a great and increas- 
mfr conimercc; and I accordingly embarked in it with all the 
ardour of commercial enterprize; selecting for jny branch the 



X INTRODUCTION. 

trade to Savannah, in Georgia, in which it appeared there was a 
good opcninff, and I was particularly well acquainted with the 
commodity to be rcturnod, cotton. 

Having completed my purchases, and established my connec- 
tions, I resolved to goto America in person, to establisli the 
business there, and made preparations for ihe voyage accordingly; 
and the following remarks, grounded upon an essay of the late 
celelvrated Dr. Franklin, and the result of a ^dod deal of ex; . ri- 
ence, may be useful to others. I have summed them up under 
the title of 

Advice to those about to undertake a Sea Voyafre. 
When you intend to take a long voyage, endeavour to have 
your whole business transacted, so us you may have a few days 
to s})end with your friends, and to attend to the little necessaries 
that may be requisite on the voya^ie, previous to your departure. 

It IS not always in a person's power to choose a captain, al- 
though a good deal of the comfort of the [massage dej^ends upon 
this choice. The chief requis^ites are, that he be a i:ood seaman ; 
attentive, careful, and active in tlit.- management of his vessel: and 
of these circumstancis, and indeed -all others relative to the pas- 
sa'^e, vou must satisfy yourself before setting out, for there is no 
use in" making complaints at sea. It is still more difficult to 
make choice of sociable fellow-passengers. A ship is like a stage- 
coach, it must accommodate all comers ; and one surly fellow may 
molest a whole ship's company. But a person, by having resour- 
ces of his own, may make himself, in a great measure, indepen- 
dent of other people, and it will be well, before going on board, to 
take measures to accomplish that desirable object. For this pur- 
y)ose, a small library of books will be found very entertaining, 
and if you have any turn for the study of mathematics and draw- 
in"-, you will have a good opportunity to practise on lK)ard ; and 
a case of matnematical instruments, and a box of paints, will be 
necessary. 

Hie greater part of the carrying trade between Britain and 
America is performed in American vessels, and a cnbui passage 
in one of these vessels is generally very agreeable. The expence, 
including every thing, is from 30 to 4() guineas. There arc vari- 
ous modes of laying in provisions. One is for the. captain to pro- 
ride every thing; another is to provide every thing, except li- 
quors; and a thir<l is for the jiassengers to furnish every thing, 
at their joint expence. If the captain be a judicious man, there 
will o-enerally be a good supply, in eitiier case. But it may not 
be amiss, for those who can aiford it, to have a |)rivate assort- 
ment of good tea and cordials; should they not have c>ccassion to 
use them themselves, they may have an opportunity of serving 
some poor steerage [:assenger.. 



INTRODUCTION. xi 

There is generally a medicine chest on board, but it is <;ome- 
times not m very good order; and it will be advisable to have a 
few simple medicines of yoir own, such as rhubarb, cream of tar- 
tar, and Peruvian bark; and a few dozens of soda water will be 
round a very aoreeablc beverage. 

When a family undertake '"'a sea voyage, they have generally 
their own servant; and if they are numerous, they wilF find it 
most comfortable and most economical to engage a state-room, 
and lay m their own stores. For the in for mat ion" of such, I shal 
here subjoin a list of the most essential articles. 

rney are eiituLd to the ship's provisions : biscuit, salt beet; pork, 
pease, &c.-In addition they will require meal, barley, flom, po! 
tatoes, pigs, duck.s fowls, porter, wine, and spirits. Beef, mut- 
on, and loaf bread wd keep fresh eight or ten days at sea, and 
It si)ould be always laid in, as it proves not only a considerable 
saving o the fresh stock, but is generally more grateful to the 
stomach at that period than any other food. 

The expence of a steerage passage is about twelve guineas, and 
the passengers are entitled to the whole ship's provisions before 
enumerated; but to make themselves comfortable, it will be pro- 
per to add a little stock of tea, sugar, liquors, barley, and^at 
meal It is generaUy necessary, both in the cabin and steera-re, 
tor tae passengers to furnish their own bedding. I may take oc- 
cas,on hereto rcaiark, that this practice is "an improper one. 
Vessels which are calculated to ca.ry passengers, should' be pro- 
vided with bed(hng, particularly in the cabin births. They are 
furnished at no great expence, and one set would serve many 
passages, so that the expence, during one passage, would be 
trifling: whereas by the present practice, each paslenger is sub- 
jected to a considerable expence, besides the trouble of purchas- 
ing his beuding, and ol selling it again at the close of theVassare. 

con^cludlSrir"'-^' '^ '' "'^"'^' '^ '-''"'^ ^' -'' -^^-^1 

. A short time alter setting sail, tlie passengers generally o-et sea 

^ero'us^s'^fr"'^'""'' though li.htly'esteemed, icause'nofdan- 

Sit ,f "'^ '""^T '''^'^" '' ^^'''> ^"^'' if treated impro- 
perly, It may cause a relaxation of the stomach, that wil be 
very troublesome. While the sickness continues, people have an 

ihr^ro" lu d.' Tr"! ^"' I'T'-, ^''"y abst'ain'from both^ 
never hp .!??'• ^'''^^^^ ^^d plan. The stomach should 

waer giuel should be freely used; and people should go upon 
deck as soon as possible. Breathing the foal air of the J^b or 

liil«r.ffn 1 '"^^^ 'V^^^ "^^^^^ ^''^^ ^^ this time be very ex- 

hilarating; and as soon as the stomach is so far cleansed as to keen 
free from retchm^ a little Peruvian bark will be very beneS 

nesVT::Tt"' ^P''^-^""^^ ^^ taken to guard agaiL co^dvt 
aes^, a >ery trouble.«ome complaint at se«. Attenli?n to diet and 



Xn INTRODUCTION. 

exercise will often prevent it ; but where that fails, a little laxa- 
tive medicine, such as rhubarb, cream of tartar, or castor oil, 
should be resorted to. 

"When the weather is good, people should rise early. The air 
of the cabin is not only affected by the respiration of the passen- 
gers, but it is often contaminated by the bilge water; while the 
sea air on deck is always pure and healthy. The breakfast hour 
at sea is 8 o'clock, dinner, 1, and supper 6 or 7. It is a general 
rule amongst the passengers, to have themselves washed and dress- 
ed before sitting down to breakfast. Betwixt breakfast and dinner, 
the time may be profitably employed in walking, reading, draw- 
ing, &c. ; and such as have a taste for navigation will have a good 
opportunity for practical improvement, as they can have access to 
the log-book ; and the captain and mates are generally very oblig- 
ing, in lending their navigation books and instruments to those 
who wish them. 

Temperance at table is necessary every where, and especially at 
sea, where the exercise is necessarily limited. Where wine is 
used, three or four glasses will generally be found more beneficial 
than a larger quantity ; and people ought, on no account, to in- 
dulge themselves at the table a whole afternoon, though it is fre- 
quently done. It is much better to take exercise in the open air on 

deck. ' 

In the evening, the company frequently amuse themselves at 
cards, backgammon, &c. ; these, when resorted to for amusement 
onl}-, are rational and innocent enough; but when the play is for 
money, they ought to be avoided. 

I may add, that, generally speaking, people's happiness is very 
much in their own power. A suavity of manners, and an oblising- 
ly civil deportment, is calculated to secure the esteem of mankind; 
and when things are not exactly as we would wish them to be, it 
>vill add to our own comfort to take them as we find thorn. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Preface, importance of books of travels ; Importance of the United States; 
Motives and design of publication ; Voyage to the West Indies, and studies connected 
vithit; Continued in a voyage to America ; Mode of procuring information; Change 
of circumstances ; Tour to the western country ; Explanation of the plan ; General 
remarks. 

INTRODUCTION, page 9. Description of Glasgow; Change of councils in 
Britain ; Probability of a lasting peace with America ; Prepare to embark for that 
country ; Advice to those about to undertake a sea voyage ; Cabin passage ; Single 
passengers, families ; Steerage passage ; General remarks to be attended to at sea. 

CHAPTER I. p. 25. Depart from Glasgow; Paisley: Extensive view ; River 
Clyde ; Greenock ; Configuration of the country ; Frequent rains on the %vest coast ; 
Anecdote ; Passengers ; Sail from Greenock ; Firth of Clyde ; AiTan ; Ailsa Craig ; 
Mull of CantjTe; Atlantic ocean ; A fair wind; A gale; Headwinds; Bermudas; 
Gulf stream ; American coast ; Savannah river. 

CHAPTER II. p. 31. General remarks ; Occupations at sea ; Winds in the At- 
lantic ; Trade winds ; Variable winds ; Gulf stream ; Banks of Newfoundland ; Is- 
lands of ice ; Courses across the Atlantic at different seasons. 

CHAPTER III. p. 35. Reflections in Savannah ; Descriptionof the city; Trade; 
Country in its vicinity ; Articles of commerce ; Exports and imports ; Savannah river. 

CHAPTER IV. p. 38. Journey up the country; Roads; Creeks; An inn; Re- 
mains of a burnt negro ; Sultry weather ; Taverns ; Domestic manufactures ; Pine 
barrens ; Remarks on health ; Construction of cities ; Draining ; Effects of oxygen ; 
A methodist church ; Reflections on camp meetings ; Baptists ; Waynesboroush ; 
Mills and machinery ; Arrive at Louisville. 

CHAPTER V. p. 45, Description of Louisville ; a fever; An experiment ; Kind- 
ness of Dr, Powell ; State-house : New purchase : Lottery of public lands ; Reflec- 
tions thereon ; Anniversary of independence ; A toast ; American character ; Leave 
Louisville ; Richmond springs ; A poet ; Set out for Augusta. 

CHAPTER VI. p. 50. Augusta; Country round it; Cross Savannah river; 
North Carolina ; Hospitality of the , planters ; A country store ; Re-cross Savannah 
river ; Signs of a storm ; Remarkable electric spark ; Anuve in Savannah ; Prepare 
to go New York. 

CHAPTER VII. p. 53. Passage to New York ; A fair wind; Gulf stream; A 
severe gale ; A calm; Clear weather ; High lands of Neversink ; Sandy Hook ; Long 
Island ; Staten Inland ; Narrows ; Quarantine ground ; Bay and islands ; Brooklyn ; 
New York. 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. p. 56 Description of New York; Public buildings ; Markets; 
Schools ; Trade ; Police ; Politics ; Press ; Parties ; Thomas Paine ; Yellow fever ; 
Table of the weatlier. 

CHAPTER IX. p. 63. Journey to the New England states ; East river ; Hell- 
gate; Long Island sound. Elegant views; A courtship ; Race; Narragansct bay ; 
Newport ; Fine views ; Beautiful female ; Another courtship ; Providence ; Geogra- 
phical arrangement. 

CHAPTER X. p. 69. Rhode Island ; Situation: Extent; Area; Face of the 
country ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climate ; Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and po- 
pulation ; Iniprovements ; Towns ; Roads ; Bridges ; Agriculture and produce ; 
Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government. 

CHAPTER XI. p. 71. A disappointment; Effects of it ; Retaliation; Leave 
Providence; Rule for swearing ; Patucket river; Cotton manufactures: Reflections 
and calculations on the cotton trade ; Massachussets ; Dedham ; beautiful prospects ; 
^Boston neck ; Boston. 

CHAPTER XIL p. 77. Description of Boston ; Public buildings; Markets; 
Commerce; Manufactures; Banks; Societies; Character of the inhabitants; State- 
house ; Fine view ; Bridges ; Jaunt to Salem ; Charleston ; Bunker's Hill ; 3Iystic 
liver ; Swamp and floating bridge ; Lynn ; Expensive turnpike ; Salem ; Wharves and 
shipping ; Reflections ; Return to Boston. 

CHAPTER XIII. p. 82. New Hampshire; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of 
the country ; Mountains ; Lakes ; Rivers ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climate ; Settlement and 
progress ; civil divisions and population ; Improvements ; Towns ; Roatls ; Bridge:* ; 
Agriculture and produce ; Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government. 

CHAPTER XIV. p. 85. Vermont; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the coun- 
try; Mountains; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; Settlement and progress ; Civil 
divisions and population ; Improvements ; Towns ; Agriculture and produce ; Manu- 
factures ; Commerce ; State of society ; Government. 

CHAPTER XV. p. 57. Leave Boston; Mail stage; Company; Cambridge; 
General remarks; Weston; Beautiful country girl; "Worcester; Brookfield ; West- 
«rn ; A contrast ; Cheerful company ; Handsome girls ; Jealousy ; Springfield ; Con- 
jieeticut river ; Suffield. 

CHAPTER XVI. p. 92, Massachussets; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the 
^.ountry ; Waters ; Minerals ; Soil and agriculture . Climate : Settlement and progress ; 
Civil divisions and population : Improvements : Towns : Roads : Bridges : Manufac- 
tures : Commerce : Stale of society : Religion : Literature : Education ; Government : 
District of Maine : Settlement : Population : Improvements : Towns : Soil : Com- 
merce : State of society : Climate. 

CHAPTER XVII. p. 96. Windsor: Hartford: Additional company: Odd no- 
tions: Handsome girls : Fruit: Waliingford : Church built by the produce of onions : 
Blooming girls : Elegant country : Fine views ; New Haven : Miliford : Housato- 
Bic river : Stamford, 

CHAPTER XVIIL p. 9S. Connecticut : Situation: Extent: Area: Face of the 
country : Hills ; Rivers : Minerals : Soil • Climate : Settlement and progress : Civil 
divisions and population : Improvements: Towns: Roads: Agriculture and produce: 
Manufactures: Commerce: State of society : Education: Government. 

CHAPTER XIX. p. 102. Yankee dialect : Horscneck : Anecdote: Rye: York 
Island : New York : Thomas Paine : An essay. 

CHAPTER XX. p. 104. New York: SHuation r Extent: Area: Face' of the, 



CONTENTS. XV 

MUhtryt Mountains: Lakes: Rivers: Minerals: Springs: Soil: Climate: Settle- 
ment and progress : Civil divisions and population : Improvements : Cities, towns, and 
vUlages: Roads: Bridges: Canals: Agriculture and produce : Manufactures: Com- 
merce : State of society : Government : State funds. 

CHAPTER XXI. p. 109. Leave New York : InteUigence of the stage drivers: 
Jersey: Bergen: A swamp : Hackensack river : Passaic river: Newark : Elizabeth- 
town: Woodbridge: Rariton river: Brunswick: Kingston: Princeton: A com- 
mencement Ball: Music and dancing : Trenton. 

CHAI'TER XXII. p. 112, New Jersey: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of 
the country; Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlement and progress : Civil divisions and 
population: Improvements: Towns: Roads: Bridges: Projected canal : Agriculture 
and produce : Manufactures : Commerce : Education : Government. 

CHAPTER XXIIL p. 114. Trenton bridge : Delaware river: Residen<-eof 
general Moreau : Reflections: Americ-a compaied witli Europe : Bristol: Frankford: 
Philadelphia. 

CHAPTER XXIV. p. 116. Description of Philadelphia: Plan: Population- 
Buildings: Public buildings: State-ho.ise : Markets: Manufactures: Trade- State 
of society: Education: Societies: Police: Remarks thereon. 

CHAPTER XXV. p. 120. Floating bridge : Water-works: Remarks on nitration 
State prison: Library: Remaaks on libraries . t^ealel^^mrseum : Schuylkill brid<.e •' 
Jaunt to the country : A flax spinning mill : Falls of Schuylkill - politics 

CHAPTER XXVLp. 122. Pennsylvania: Situation: Extent: ArJa ■ Face of 
the country: Mountains: Rivers: Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlement and pro- 
gress: Civil divisions and population: Improvements: Cities and towns- Roads- 
Bridges: Canals : Agricultuie and produce: M.^nufactures : Commerce: State of 
society : Government 

CHAPTER XXVn. p. 154. ^I^nd and water stages : Delaware river: Country 
on Its banks ; Newcastle: Low marshy lands. 

CHAPTER XX VIIL p. 1S5. Delaware: Situation: Extent. Area: Face of 
thecounto-: Rivers: Minerals: Soil: Climate: Settlement and progress: Civil di- 
visions and population : Improvements: Towns: Agriculture and produce: Manu- 
iacturess Commerce: Schools: Constitution and government. 

CHAPTER XXIX. p. 137. Elk river: Chesapeak bay: Extensive view, Sus- 
quehannahnver: Arrive at Baltimore : Numerous company : Meet some eld fellow- 
trayelle.s: Market: Madame Jerome Bonaparte and child: Coffee-house: Library. 
ShiM-ards: Agreeable company: Description of Baltimore : Public buildin..s • Ma- 
nufactures : Commerce : Education : Banks : Police. ''" * " 

CHAPTER XXX. p. 140. Maryland: Situation : Extent : Area : Face of the 
country: Mountains: Chesapeak bay: Rivers: Minerals: Soil: CUmate: Settlement 
and progress: Civil divisions and population: Improvements: Cities and towns-" A 

"^T^V^r^r' ''""''''^"'""- ^'"""^'^^^'^•- ^^"'^^^'-= Government. ' 

LHAPrLRXXXI.p.H,-. Leave Baltimore: Patapsco creek; Blad^nsbur^ ■ 
M ash.ngton ; Capitol ; Ca,,itol hill ; Superb view. "-nstiurg , 

r™f '^'^rf^''''"" '' '''• ^^'"^'""g^"' Ti-suo-; Post-o,T.ce: Capitol- 

fr V ""'' '^""^^ ''''^■''''■' G-'^--"^ I'-.cmac river; Roi . 

Jaia out by congress. ' *•■""" 

CHAPTER XXXIII. p. 148. Wait on Mr. Jefferson ; Conversation ; Notice of / 
Aiaencan commercial cities; CKmate and Se-.on ; Epidemic sickness; vk. rir, >/ 



XVI CONTENTS. 

Taiiic's essay ; Roads ; Internal improvements ; Manufactures ; Sentiments relative 
to Mr. Fox. 

CHAPTER XXXIV. p. 152. District of Columbia ; Extent; Situation; Face 
of the country ; Soil ; Climate ; Divisions ; Improvements ; Description of Washing- 
ton city : Plan ; Buildings; Public buildings ; Markets; !\tanufactures ; State of so- 
ciety J Police ; General remarks on British and French influence ; Probability of 
an amicable adjustment of the differences with Britain; Alexandria. 

CHAPTER XXXV. p. 157. Leave Alexandria; Occoquhan creek; Agreeable 
company ; A republic ; Songs and stories ; Dumfries ; Fredericksburg ; Rappahan- 
nock river ; Mattapony river ; Pamunky river ; York river ; York ; Hanover court- 
house; Richmond; James river; Navigation; Canal; Appamattox river; Petersburg; 
Agreeable company ; Nottaway river ; ISIeherrin river. 

CHAPTER XXXVI. p. 164. Virginia; Jefferson's Notes; Boundaries; Extent; 
Area; Face of the country ; Mountains; Rivers; Passage of the Potomac through 
tlie Mountains ; Cascades; Caves; Blowing cave; Natural bridge; Minerals; Soil; 
Climate ; Settlement and progress ; Civil divisions and population ; Towns ; Roads ; 
Navigation ; Architecture ; Agriculture and produce ; Blaiaufactures ; Commerce ; 
State of society ; Colleges ; Education ; Religion ; Government ; Extracts from Mr 
Jefferson's Notes; On government ; On the importation of foreigners; On manufac 
turcs, agriculture, and commerce. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. p. 185. Roanoke river; Warrenton; Tar river ; Nuse 
river ; Raleigh ; Dismal country ; Black river ; Cape Fear ; Fayetteville ; Lumber- 
ton ; An accident; Swim the horses and stage. 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. p. 187. North Carolina; Situation; Extent; Area; 
Face of the country ; Mountains; Rivers; Minerals; Soil; Climate; Settlement and 
progress; Civil divisions and populations; Improvements; Towns; Roads; Agricul- 
ture and produce i Manufactures and commerce ; State of society ; Government. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. p. 190. Flat country; Bad reads; Methodist church; 
Swimming creek; Little Pedee river; Altercation vvjth the driver; Reedy creek; 
Maple swamp; Great Pedee river ; A breakfast; Lynche's creek ; Blackmingo creek ; 
AV'ilton; An agreeable Irishman ; Fever and ague ; A dinner; Black river; An old 
friend; Georgetown; Culture of rice ; A causeway; Santce river; View rf the At- 
laTitic ocean ; Arrive at Charleston. 

CHAPTER XL. p. 19C. A politician; A fever; Sudden change rf weather; 
Description of Charleston. 

CHAPTER XLI. p. 199. South Carolina; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of 
the country ; Hiils ; Rivers ; Minerals ; Soil ; Climate ; Settlement and progress • 
Civil divisions and population; Improvements; Towns; Agriculture and produce; 
Manufactures; Commerce; State of society ; Education; Government 

CHAPTER XLII. p. 204. Passage to Savannah by sea; Tybee light-house; 
Savaimali; De;ith and character of a friend; Hard labour ; Flattering prospects; A 
new connection; Prepare to embark for Europe. 

CHAPTER XLIII. p. 206. Georgia; Situation; Extent; Area; Face of the 
eountry; Mountains; Rivers; Soil and Climate; Settlemeat and progress; Civil 
divisions and population ; Towns; Agriculture and produce; Education; Reflections 
on that subject ; Religion ; Government. 

CHAPTER XLI V. p. 210. Embark for Europe; Fellow passei^ers ; Detaine«r 
in the river ; A fine breeze ; Fast sailing ; A sloop of war ; A frigate ; Sea di¥eraions ;, 
Cope Clear; An Irish pilot boat ; Cove of Cork ; TuscAr ; Skesries-light; Liver^c! 



CONTENTS. Xvii 

pil'ot boat ; Head winds ; A gale ; Hoyle lake ; A cavalcade ; An ignorant guide ; 
Arrive in Liverpool. 

CHAPTER XLV. p. 214. Change of councils in Britain ; Probable effect on the 
American relations ; New political doctrines ; Conunercial arrangement ; Information 
as to the late election ; Political discussions ; Chairing the members ; Political motives j 
An intelligent Liverpool freeman, 

CHAPTER XLVL p. 217. Set out for Glasgow; Ormskirk ; Preston; Lancas- 
tor; Conversation with a London merchant | Kendal; Shap fells; Geese grazing; 
Penrith ; Thriving farms ; Carlisle ; Manufactures ; Longton ; Scotland ; Extensive 
view ; Gretna green ; Laws of marriage in Scotland ; Rough road ; Lockerby ; Moffkt; 
Cold weather ; Sources of the Clyde ; Scottish dialect ; Hamilton ; Glasgow. 
' CHAPTER XLVIL p. 221. Journey to England; Preston; Manchester; Li- 
verpool; Warrington; Prescott; Gilcad hall; Commercial arrangements ; Manches- 
ter; Antiquity; Extent; Manufactures; Improved steam engine ; Cotton mills; Ma- 
nufactures for America ; Bury ; Rochdale ; Halifax ; Leeds ; Northallerton ; 
Durham: River Wear; Extensive views ; Reflections; Newcastle coal trade; Mor- 
peth ; Alnwick ; Magnificent Castle ; German ocean ; Berwick ; Dunbar ; Elegant 
view ; Edinburgh ; Singular situation ; Arthur's seat ; Salisbury Craigs ; Castle ; Cal- 
ton hill ; Lofty houses ; New town ; Elegant buildings ; Bridges ; Leith ; Adjacent 
country ; Courts of Law ; Nobility and gentry of Scotland ; Education ; State of so- 
ciety ; Rapid travelling ; Arrive at Glasgov?. 

CHAPTER XLVIILp. 226. Plans ©f the new ministry; Expedition to Den- 
mark ; Orders in council ; Consequences ; Journey to the east country ; Cumbernauld ; 
Forth and Clyde canal ; Stirling ; Dumblane ; River Ern ; Crieff; jMethven Parish ; 
Face of the country ; River Almond ; Soil ; Heritors ; Population ; Occupations ; 
Farms; Minister; Seceders ; Schoolmaster; System of education ; Church; Baptism; 
Seceder church ; Calvinism ; Promiscuous dancing ; Siottish Music and dancing ; 
Perth; Manufactures; Fisheries; Education; Return to Glasgow. 

CHAPTER XLIX. p. 231. Another journey to the east country ; Edinburgh; 
Firth of Forth ; Kingborn ; Kirkaldy ; Cupar ; A garrulous plasterer ; Fine view j 
Filth of Tay; Dundee; Aughtermouchty ; Falkland Palace: Lomond hills: Mine- 
rals : Edinburgh : Glasgow. 

CHAPTER L, p. 256. Effects of the orders m council: Jaunt to Edinburgh ? 
Celebration of Mr. Fox's birth-day : Toasts : Lord Melville: Death of Sir John Moore: 
Cold weather : Return to Glasgow. 

CHAPTER LI, p. 2.58. J ournty to Ireland ; Kilmarnock: Ayr; Dismal night: 
Cirvan : Loch Ryan : Port Patrick : Violent weather ; Head winds : A gale ; Re- 
turn to port : A fair wind: Ireland: Bdfast : Hillsborough: Banbridge : Dundrunt 
bay: A shipwreck : Newry : A debate : Banbridge: Dromore: Hi!!' borough ; Lis- 
biurn : Belfast: Return to Newry : Hum orous hostler : Newcastle: An Irish family ; 
Whist parties : Anecdotes : Irish linen trade : Brazil trade : Friends from Belfast ; 
Ballyualiinch : Medicinal springs : Hospitality of an old Irishwoman : Counsellor 
Trotter, late Mr. Fox's private secretary. 

CHAPTER LII. p. 24S. Pj epare to leave Ireland : Downpatrick : Strangford : 
Amazing rapid tide : Portaferry : Donaghadee : Reflections on leaving Irtland : Port 
Patiick : Very distant view ; West coast of Scotland : Burns' birth-place : Ayr : 
Glasgow. 

CHAPTER LIII. p. 2jO. Orders in council withdrawn : Conduct of the ship- 
ping inter&st ; Paper blflckadc ; Views in political economy ; P/cpare to embark i'nc 



Xviii CONTENTS. 

America* Edinburgh; Dundee: Carlisle: Manchester. Leeds: Sheffield: Netting 

ham : London : Yauxhall gardens : Singular occurrences. 

CHAPTER LI V. p. 254. Leave London: Oxfoid : Birmingham : Min€ntlogy; 
Shrewsbury '• Chester : Liverpool ; Reflections on the situation of England and America; 
CHAPTER LV. p. 256. Engage a passage for America by the Pacific: Passen- 
gers: A dilemma: Irish boatmen : Pacific sails : Cape Clear: Head winda: Ship nm* 
out of the breeze : Ranks of Newfoundland : Gulf stream: Lunar obser?at ions : Sandy 
Iljjt>lr: Information from the pilot: Quarantine ground: Arrive in New York. 

CHAPTER LVI. p. 260. Journey to Philadelphia: Commercial discussions s 
NcTotiation with Britain broke od': Passage to Savannah : Effects of the stoppage of 
tl)e foreign trade. 

CHAPTER LVII. p. 26'i. Journey up the country : Louisville: Upper country : 
Oo-eethe river : Sparta: Domestic manufactures: Grccnsburg: Oconee river ; Appa- 
licijy river; New purcha.se ; Mojmt Vernon; Madison; Grecnsburg ; An alarm; In- 
quiry whether the blacks can organize a plot to destroy the white people in the southern 
states; Washington; Ray's mills; A manufactory ; Columbia Court-house ; Augusta; 
An oii friend; Riclnnond springs ; Waynesborough ; Great rcTolution in commerce ; 
Cotton manufactories ; Probable consequences of the coihmercial revoluti>;n. 

CHAPTER LVH I. p. 268. Passage to Charleston ; A fever: Sullivan's Island; 
P!:sbage to New York ; Head w inds ; A gale ; A fair wind : Arrive in New York ; 
("elebration of the anniversary of independence; Long island ; Jamaica; Fine view; 
Newton; Fruit; Journey to Philadelphia ; A merry p:ir<y ; A bloody nose; An eccen- 
tric pixacher; A sleeping fit; Loss of two hats; Return by the steam-boat ; Stalen 
island; Quarantine ground ; Agreeable parties ; Importanceof temperance in religious 
and political discussions, and of avoiJing personal abuse. 

CH A PTER LIX, p. 272. Residence in New York ; Negociations ; Political views ; 
Progress of American manufactures; All hope of a beneficial trade with Britain at 
iin end. 

CHAPTER LX. p. 27 n. Reflections on agriculture ; Plan of publishing travels ; 
/ I'lojected tour to the western country : Set out for Philadelphia : General infoimation : 
^ Great increase of the city : Society of arti>.ts ; Institution for engraving bank-notes; Set 
out forAVashington: Delaware river ; Newcastle; Frenchtown: Baltimore; "Washington, 
CHAPTER LXl. p. 28G. Interview with the secretary of the treasury : Prelimi- 
nary inquiries befoie setting out on a tour to the western country : Wait on Mr. Madi- 
son • ( 'onversation on various topics : Washington city : Baltimore: Havre-d«-Grace ; 
^5wsquehannall river : lliiladelphia : New York. 

CHAPTER LXII.p. 2:j1. Long Island ; Route cf Travels • Inquires to be made 
during the journey : Leave New York: Steam-boat; Fortifications: Staten Island ; 
Kills: Newark bay: Elizabetlitown point : Aniboy • Fisheries': Rariton river : Bruns- 
wick: Princeton : Trenton; Overturn of tlie i^tage : Borden.'own : Fine view : Del- 
aware river : Bristol: Fnilington; Point-no-point: Philadelphia. 

CHAPTER LXIII. p. 2y5. Pittsburg stage : Finehorsss: Buck tavern : Rich 
valley r Dowuingstown ; Gap hill : L'randyvviiie creek : Rich countiy : Lancaster ; 
Eli7ubetlitown ; Conewago liills : Middleton : Banks of the Susquehannah : Harris- 
Lurgh : Cross the Susquehannah t Carlisle : View of the mountains : Shippensburg : 
Chambcrsburg. 

^ CHAPTER LXIV. p. 259. General information: Chambersburg : Limestone 
Valley : Fellow travellers : Extensive view : Curious petrifaction : Conecocheague 
t reek '. Ascend the North mountains ; IMode of passing waggons : .'\n old hag : A 



J 



J 



CONTENTS. XIX 

German family; Elegantly variegated view ; Rl'Connelstown; Hunting; Scrub hill ; 
Sidling liill ; Sublime view ; Junction of roads ; Ray's hill ; Juniata river ; ro7nantic 
banks; Chain bridge; Singular curiosity; Bloody run; Hot water wai-; Bedford; 
pedford springs. 

CHAPTER LXV. p. 304. A Pitt-sburg company ; Valuable mills; Allegany 
mountains; T;i\;eni on the top; Sublime views; Reflections; Temperate climate; 
Somerset; Repulsive landlord ; Obliging postmaster; Ge.isial information; Anec- 
tlotes ; Laurel hill ; Chesnut ridge. 

CHAPTER LX VI. p, 309. Western couulry ; Salt spring ; Coal mine ; Greens- 
burg ; Turtle creek ; A wonderful tree ; Braddock's defeat ; A beautiful female ; 
General remarks on the mountains ; Reptiles; lucrea.e of sheep and wool; On the 
use of spirituous liquors ; Prejudice; Expcnce of travelling ; Importance of a turn- 
pike road. 

CHAPTER LXVII. p. 514. Pittsburg; Buildin^rs ; Population; Public build- 
ings; Manufactures; Professions; Price of labour; Value of manufactures; Ex- 
ports; Manufactures that might be established; Expence of living, compared with the 
price of labour ; State of society ; Female education; jMonongahela and Allegany 
rivers : Industry of the inliabitants ; Grant's hill : Glass-work-; j. Potteries ; Steam-boat . 
An ecclesiastical trial ; Reflections ou religious freedom. 

CHAPTEPi. LXVIII. p. 520. Journey to Harmony ; Cross the Allegany river ; 
Rough road ; Plains ; Remarks on the country ; Harmony ; Origin and progress of 
the society; Innkeeper; Doctor; Mr. Rapp ; Sheep and shepherds; Manufactures; 
Tradesmen; Dog blowing the bellows; ' Gi-anarics; Orchard; Brewhouse ; Store- 
houses ; Labyrinth ; Botanic garden ; Div ne service ; Tiand of music ; Watchmen : 
Vineyards; Rlills and machinery ; Fertile valley; A village; Brick- works ; Burial 
ground ; Anecdote ; Bee-hives ; Domesiic economy ; Religion ; Education ; Mora- 
lity; Stock and future prospects of the society ; Farewell address ; Zelionople ; Re- 
turn to Pittsburg ; General remarks. 

CHAPTER LX IX. p. 531. Prepare to descend the Oliio ; Different craft upon 
it: An original genius ; A skiff and provisions ; Ohio riser; 'J'liick fog; A ripple* 
Loss of a ham; Effects of a flood; A company of Indians; Beaver; An Indian 
boatman; Love of whiskey; Georgetown; A dinner; Steubenville ; SledbenvilU; 
district. 

CHAPTER LXX. p. 359. Handsome plantation and poach orchard; General in- 
formation ; Charleston ; A spiritual explanation ; Wheeliug ; lloHection.s on slavery • 
Carrying slaves to market ; A drunken Indian ; General information ; Lou"- reach : 
Fine views ; A peach orchard ; A wonderful fall discovered by Mr. Ashe ; IMarietta. 

CHAPTER LXXI. p. 344. Marietta; Commerce; Steam-mill building ; Pro- 
bable increase of manufactures ; Fine views ; Indian mounds ; Navio-ation of the 
Ohio ami IMuskingum ; Ohio company's purchase ; Maiietta district. 

CHAPTER LXXII. p. 349. Keel boats ; Rough company ; Elaunerhassett's 
island; Burr's oonspiiacy ;. Reflections thereon; Bellepre ; A contrast; Eflfects of 
industry; A humoursome character; A floating-mill; Irish emigrants; An anecdote; 
A musician ; Letart's falls ; Head winds; Kuuhaway rivor ; Point pleasant; Ga!- 
liopolis. 

CHAPTER LXXIII. p. ,556. Whimsical account of the conntry; Leave Gal- 
liopolis; Cotton manufactures; Account of the early scalers ; A riumerous family - 
A politician; Big Sandy creek ; Hospitable new married couple; A thrivinrr family • 
Frpnch grant; Scioto river; Portsinoutli ; Alexandria; Treci of e.\traerJinarv aizv 



XX CONTENTS. 

and beauty ; Manchester j Limestone ; Augusta ; General Infonnation ; A hosplta* 
b!e Scotsman ; Athol brose ; Sliantrews ; Poetry ; Music ; Cincinnati. 

CHAPTER LXXIV. p. 361. Cincinnati; Manufactures and mechanics; Pro- 
visions ; jManners and morals ; Symmes' purchase ; Cincinnati district j Newport ; 
Elegant farm and vineyard ; Captain Baen ; General information. 

CHAPTER LXXV. p. .T65. Take captain Baen passenger ; Descend the 
river; "Wretched tavern ; Captain Brown; A mammoth bone; Extraordinary orchard; 
Great Miami; Big-bone- lick creek ; Accountof the mammoth; Wander in the woods; 
Captain Hawes' ; A dilemma ; Unwelcome great-coats ; Swiss vineyards ; Kentucky 
river ; Madison ; Bethlehem ; Louisville ; General remarks. 

CHAPTER LXXVL 577. Louisville; Jeffersonville ; Falls of the Ohio ; Re- 
marks on the utility of a canal ; Commerce on the Ohio ; Country round the falls. 

CHAPTER LXXVIL p. 381. Indiana territoiy; Illinois territory; North-west 
territory ; Louisiana territory ; Orleans territory (now the state of Louisiana) ; New 
Orleans ; Mississippi territory ; Mississippi river ; General remarks. 

CHAPTER LXXVIII. p. 396, Account of the Indian war; Leave Louisvillei 
Bear-grass creek ; Middleton ; Shelbyville ; Clear creek ; Beautiful country ; Benson 
creek ; Romantic valley ; Frankfort ; State-house ; Penitentiary ; Hemp manufac- 
tures ; Kentucky river; State of Society; Country round Frankfort; Versailles: 
Beautiful countiy : Lexington. 

CHAPTER LXXIX. p. 401. Lexington: Market: Rope-walks: Cotton bag- 
ging factory : Theatre : Original settlement : Population : Public buildings : Semi- 
nary : Library : Steam-mill t Manufactures : Prices : State of society : Police : 
Country round : Remarks oh the climate. 

CHAPTER LXXX. p. 405. Tennessee: Situation: Extent; Area: Face of 
the countiy : Rivers : Mountains : Minerals : Soil : Climate : Settlement and pro- 
gress ; Civil divisions and population : Tewns : Agriculture : Manufactures : C«ia- 
merce : State of society : Government. 

CHAPTER LXXXI. p. 408. Leave Lexington : Paris: Country round: Mil- 
lersburg : Blue Lick : Remarks on Mr. Ashe •, Washington : Limestone. 

CHAPTER LXXXII. p. 411. Kentucky: Situation: Extent: Area: Face of 
the country : Rivers : Minerals • Soil • Climate : Settlement and progress : Civil 
divisions and population : Improvements : Towns : Agriculture : Govenmient : State 
of society : Apostrophe to Liberty : Land-titles : Manners. 

CHAPTER LXXXIII. p. 416. Cross the Ohio river: Rich scenery : An econo- 
mist : Eagle creek : A dinner : General information to emigrants : West Union : 
Domestic manufncturcs : Brush creek : Sinking springs ; Bainbridgc : General in- 
formation : Paint creek : Chillicothe. 

CHAPTER LXXXI V. p. 423. Chillicothe: Public buildings: Manufactures 
Provisions : Inhabitants : Chillicothe district : Virginia military lands. 

CHAPTER LXXXV. p. 427. Cross the Scioto river : Kenneconek creek • 
Plains : Tarlton : Clear creek : Hockhocking river : New Lancaster : Country 
round;' Elegant house: Jonathan creek-, Springfield; Cross the Bluskingum; 
Zanesvillc. 

CHAPTER LXXXVL p. 430. General remarks: Description of Zanesville- 
Ct»uiiiienceinent of settlement : Professions ; Markets i Manufactures : Commerce : 
State of society : Education : Police : Zanesville district : IMuskingum river : Tim- 
ber : Climate; Population- An election: Agriculture: Price of lauds: Situation 
for manufactures : Remarks «n manufactures. 



CONTENTS. XXi 

CHAPTER LXXXVII. p. 446. Leave Zanesvllle : Wakatomlka creek: Sheep 
farming : A raethodist preacher : Fertile bottoms : Coshocton : A breakfast : New- 
Comer's town : Yankee town : Gnadenhutten : Schoenbrun : New Philadelphia : 
Travelling companions : Beautiful country : Dutch tavern : Sandy creek : Nim- 
shillen creek : Canton. 

CHAPTER LXXXVIII. p. 445. Canton: Canton district; Remarks on the 
weather : A squall : A Geiman family : Squatters : Reflections : Cross the Tusca- 
rawa : Connecticut reserve : Dividing ridge between the northern and southern wai- 
ters : A Connecticut family : Cayahoga river : Account of Hudson : Portage-path : 
Bfud creek : Bad road : Travelling family : A salt hauler ; Tinker's creek : Wretch- 
ed accommodations : Dull scenery : Lake Erie : Sublime view.' 

CHAPTER LXXXIX. p. 455. General reflections : Travelling in quest of new 
lands : Outlet of Cayahoga river : Sickness : A cure suggested : Projected canal : 
Description of Cleveland : Lake shore: Eocky river : A gale: A storm. 

CHAPTER XC. p. 457. Connecticut reservation : Claim of Connecticut : Man- 
ners of the inhabitants : Their aversion to law : Warren : Lake Erie : Navigation of 
the lakes ; Principal ports : Number of vessels on both sides : British armed vessels : 
Extent of inland navigation : General information : Black river : Vermilion river •, 
Huron river : Sandusky river and bay ; Miami of the lakes : Road to Detroit. 

CHAPTER XCL p. 462. Michigan territory: Bounderies : Extent-. Area: 
Face of the country : Soil ; Climate : Settlement and progress : Population : Go • 
%'ernment. 

CHAPTER XCIL p. 463. Leave Cleveland: Chagrin riror: A good notion; 
An intended town : A Scottish store-keeper : Grand river : Lake shore : Beautiful 
prospect : Ashtabula river : A New-Connecticut justice court : Eloquent pleadinu-s : 
A convivial party : Songs and stories : Merit of Scottish music : An old song : 
Fishes blown on shore ■. Reflections on speculation r Conneought river. 

CHAPTER XCIIL p. 470. State of Ohio : Boundaries: Extent: Area; Face 
of the country ; Rivers : Soil : Climate t Minerals : Settlement and progress : Sta- 
tistical table : Reflections on population; Improvements: Towns: Roads: State of 
society : constitution r jurisprudence : Military : Salutary laws : Shakers. 

CHAPTER XCIV. p. 480. Banks of Lake Erie: Elk creek: Walnut creek: 
Erie : Remarks on canal navigation. 

CHAPTER XCV. p. 482. Leave Erie; Effects of a tornado ; New settlers ; 
Travellers; Canadaway; Cataragus; Cataragus creek; Indian reserve; Travelhng 
family ; Rocks and precipices ; R^emarkable stratum ; Quicksands ; Dangerous pas- 
sage ; IMasses of limestone ; Buffalo ; Buffalo creek ; Indian settlements ; Indian 
speeches. 

CHAPTER XCVI. p. 489. Black rock; Upper Canada; British soldiers ; Rich 
settlements ; Grand island ; Chippaway ; Chippaway creek ; Rapids ; Falls of Nia- 
gara ; Sublime view ; Particular examination of the Falls ; Table Rock ; Awful ca- 
vity under it ; Wonderful scenery ; A brilliant rainbow. 

CHAPTER XCVII. p. 493. Independence of the Americans ; Anecdotes; Bri- 
tish oflBcers; A dutch settler; A Yankee; Haughtiness and pride of the soldiery; 
Queenstown ; Lewistown ; A back- woods-man ; Niagara river ; Lake Ontario; Oat. 
let of Niagara river ; Discharge of water ; General reflections. 

CHAPTER XCVIII. p. 498. British possessions in North America; New- 
foundland; Cape Breton; Nova Scotia; New Brunswick; Lower Canada; Quebec; 



XXll CONTENTS. 

Montreal ; Upper Canada ; York ; Newark ; Queenstown ; Kingston ; Alalden ; 
Banks of the lakes ; Agriculture; State of society ; Prospect of war with the United 
States ; Suminary view of population, trade, &c. 

CHAPTER XCIX. p. 503. Description of Lewistown ; Ascent of Table Land; 
Falls once here ; Description of the river; Volney's remarks; Observations thereon, 
and on IMr. Schultz''i reviewers; Elegant view; Devil's-hole ; ^Vhirlpo()l ; Grand 
Niagara ; View of the Falls ; Description of the river at the Falls: Probable descent 
between the Ir.kes ; Strata under the Falls ; Mills and machinery ; Probability of a 
large settlement ; Account «)f a boat and canoe being carried over the Falls ; Fort 
Schlosser ; Remarks on canal navigation ; Projected canal round the Falls. 

CHAPTER C. p. 509. Leave Fort Schlosser ; Views on the river; Tonewanta 
creek ; New raad ; Great western turnpike ; Ellicott's creek ; Price of lands ; Moving 
families ; General information ; A missionary preacher ; Tonewanta creek ; Batavia ; 
II(*iIand purchase ; Extent ; Face of the country ; Soil ; Plan of settling ; State of 
society ; Roads ; Taverns ; Opinions on the grand canal ; Price of lands ; Descrip- 
tion of Batavia ; People best adapted to the country ; General reflections. 

CHAPTER CL p. 515. Leave Ratavia ; Retiections; Le Roy Account of a 
Scottish settlement at Caledonia ; Gencss^e river ; Falls ; Avon ; Ontario county ; 
Fine views ; Honeoye lake ; Rloomfield ; Pretty villages ; Canandaigua ; Beautiful 
scenery ; Description of the village ; General remarks ; A new and beautiful edition 
of Yankee ladies ; Education ; View round Canandaigua ; Future destinies of the 
back v.oods ; Description of Ontario county. 

CHAPTER CXI. p. 521. Leave Canandaigua ; A smoking scene ; Reflections ou 
the use of tobacco ; Geneva; An agreeable friend ; A pleasant party ; General infor- 
mation ; Description of Geneva; Seneca lake ; Soil; Increase of sheep and woollen 
manufactures; Re-Tister of the weather, and remaiks. 

CHAPTER CIIL p. 527. Leave Geneva; Cross Seneca river; Cayuga lake 
and village : Descripticm of Seneca river ; Moving families ; Auburn ; Skeneatclcss ; 
Onondago court-house and hollow ; Description of the salt-works ; Manlius Square ; 
Canascrago hollow ; View of Oneida lake ; A false sign-post ; Hartford ; Patenir 
bellows ; Flourishing country ; Utica. 

CHAPTER CIV. p. 552. Remarks on the grand canal; and on foreign com- 
merce ; Rapid progress of manufactures ; Glass ; Cotton ; Woollen ; Iron, &c. 
Raw material-. ; Description of Utica. 

CHAPTER CV. p. 537. General remarks; History of the settlement of Sac- 
ket's Harbour and countrj' round it ; Description of Sacket's Harbour ; trade ; Adja- 
cent countrj- ;, State of society ; 'Anecdote of a farmer and a bear ; Reflections ; Re- 
marks on inland navigation ; Projected canal ; Importance of canal navigation. 

CHAPTER CVI. p. 544. Leave Utica; Cross the Mohawk river; Herkimer; 
Little falls ; An inventory ; Remarkable passage ; Charming views ; East Canada 
creek ; Nose ; General information. 

CHAPTER CVII. p. 519. Scenery on the Mohawk; Extensive views ; Johns- 
town; Very extensive viev.s; Broadalbin ; History of the settlement; Progress; 
Pfimhive manners; Milton; A large woollen factory ; Balkton springs; Analysis 
of the water-;. 

CHAPTER CVIIT. p. 554. Leave Ballston ; AVatcrford ; Cohoes falls; Sec- 
nery on the Hudson river ; Arrive at Albany ; Description of the city ; Markets ; 
Manufactures ; Commerce ; State of society ; and of the weather. 



CONTENTS. XX m 

CHAPTER CIX. p. 55Y. Passage by steam-boat; Hudson; Newburg ; High- 
lands ; Stony Point ; Handsome seats ; Craggy precipice ; Settlements on the river ; 
York island ; New York ; Statistical table of the state. 

CHAPTER ex. p. 561. United States ; Extent; Area; Face of the country ; 
General theory of the cliiiiate ; Settlement and progress; Statistical table exhibitm" 
the extent of the country ; Population ; Census of the United States ; &c. ; Geneial 
infoi^iation as to sheop, manufactures &c. ; Remarks on tlie utility of a national 
geography ; ^"'ommerce ; Exports ; Imports ; Progress of society and national wealtli ; 
National funds and debt ; National i mpro vements : Secretary of the treasury's report 
on roads and canals : Lines of canal along the coast : Inland navigation : Turnpike 
roads; Resources of the nation ; Plan for carrying on public works, when the pro- 
spect of remuneration is not sufficient to call forth the exertions of individuals ; Em- 
ployment for the army in time of peace ; Federal revenue ; Interruption of foreifTi 
commerce ; Plan suggested to meet any falling o(F in the revenue ; Duties on im- 
ports and tonnage ; TLougbts on a national bank ; Remaining revenue to be contri- 
buted by tlie states ; Federal currency ; Table of the weight and value of coins ; Ac'- 
vantage of a currency arranged decimally, illustrated by examples ; Sta\e of socictv ; 
Literature ; Newspapers printed in America ; Paper manufactured in America ; Pub- 
lic libraries ; Articles of confederation j Constitution ; Conclusion ; Register of the 
weather, and table of espences. 

APPENDIX. No. I. p. 5W}. Of the cause of the yellow fever, and the means 
of preventing it. 

No. II. p. 600. Letter to a member of parliament on the orders in council 
and the American trade; Extracts from Mr. Brougham's speech. 

No. III.. p. 60S. Remarks on the Scotlisli peasantry; Establishment of tlie 
Glasgow public library ; Regulations. 

No. IV. p. 617. Observations on the trade between Britain and America. 

No. V. p. 620. Advice to Emigrants to the United States, by Clements Bur- 
leigh, Esq. 

No. VI. p. 625. Hints to Enu'grauts, by the Shamrock society, Ndw ^'ork. 



TRAVELS 



IN 



THE UNITED STATES, &c* 

CHAPTER I. 

Glasgow, — Greenock, — Savannah. 

Having shipped my goods on board the Warrington, cap- 
tairl Hinkley, bound from Greenock to Savannah, I set out 
from Glasgow for Greenock by the stage coach, on Saturda\', 
the 8th of March, 1806. There are two roads from Glasgow 
to Greenock, the one direct, by Renfrew, the other by Paisley. 
The stage took the latter route, which lies through a level, well- 
cultivated country, and pretty fertile, to Paisley. 

Paisley is 7 miles distant from Glasgow, and is ah irregularly 
built town, the streets mostly naiTow, and not very clean. It 
contains upwards of 30,000 inhabitants ; and the principal ma- 
nufactures arc fancy muslins and threads, with silks and gauzes. 
The people are very industrious, and there is more elegance and 
taste displayed in the fancy goods of that town than in any 
other that I have seen. From Paisley towards Greenock, the 
country continues level for two miles, and then the road rises 
for about five miles, with a gradual ascent, to Bishoptown, where 
there is a very fine view. To the west is a full view of the river 
Clyde, which expands to the breadth of seven miles, having 
Greenock and Port Glasgow on its left bank, and its borders 
studded with elegant villas, smrounded by well cultivated fields 
and plantations. To the north, is Dunbarton, an irregularly 
built little town, at the mouth of the river Leven, and having 
considerable manufactures of glass. Near this stands Dunbarton 
castle, well known in ancient story, on a singularly insulated rock, 
the evident efTcct of some great eruption of the earth. To the 
north is the beautiful river Levcn, celebrated in verse by Smol- 
lett, who was born on its pleasant banks, two miles above Dun- 
barton. The banks of the river are elegantly adorned with vil- 

• 4 



S6 TRAVELS I« ^ 

his and cultivated fields, and there is more machinery itpon it 
than any river in the west of Scotland. This little river is the 
outlet of Loch Lomond, a lake singidarly beautiful and roman- 
tic, on the east side of which stands Ben Lomond, one of the 
hiirhest mountains in Scotland ; and the view is terminated to 
north and west by mountains innumerable, the tops of which are 
generally lost in the clouds. 

From the summit of the eminence where this view is seen, the 
road proceeds by a winding descent to the banks of the river, 
and keeps close along shore for five miles to Port Glasgow, a 
small town containing about 3000 people. It was intended to be 
a port to Glasgow, as its name implies, and has a little shipping 
trade ; but it is altogether eclisped by Greenock, which possesses 
superior advantages as a port. Three miles beyond this is Gree- 
nock, and on reaching it, I found that the vessel would not sail 
for several days. 

Greenock is an irregularly built town, containing about 18,000 
inhabitants, and enjoys a very large portion of the commerce of the 
west of Scotland, which employs an extensive mercantile capital. 
Besides the coasting and Irish trade, of whiclt it has a large share, 
it employs numerous shipping to Canada, to the West Indies, 
and to the continent of Europe ; and it is the seat of nearly tl^ 
whole of the American trade with Scotland. There are three oT 
four vessels in the New- York, and as many in the Charleston 
trade ; besides occasional vessels for Boston, Savannah, Norfolk, 
&c. This trade is wholly carried on in Amei'ican vessel*; and 
they generally perform two voyages in the year. The country 
round Greenock has a singular and even romantic appearance.-^ 
The Clyde is here seven miles broad ; but a few miles belowy 
it makes a sudden bend to the southward, and contracts to the 
breadth of two miles. On the opposite side is Hellensburg, and 
two miles below, on this side, is Gourock,^ which are celebrated 
watering-placcb, and much frequented by the citizens of Glasgow 
in the summer season ; and on the west is situated Roseneath, a 
seat of the duke of Argyle. It was lately burnt down, but it ia 
now rebuilt in an elegant style, and commands a fine view of 
the Firth and its shipping. The whole country round rises 
into high lands, and the view is terminated to the north and 
west by lofty mountains. 

From this configuration of the country, connected with the 



SCOTLAND. 27 

winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, we may account 
for the frequent rains with which this place, and indeed the greater 
part of the west coast of Scotland, is inundated. The wind blows 
from the south-west for eight or nine months in the year, and is 
particularly prevalent in the winter season. In its course from 
the warm latitudes, over the vast expanse of water in the Atlan- 
tic Ocean, it is highly impregnated with vapour; and, arriving 
pn the high lands on the west of Scotland, it is suddenly con- 
densed, and falls down in torrents of rain. From these circum^ 
stances, the winters are mild and rainy. There is comparatively 
Jittle snow, and it never lies long; but it has been frequently 
observed to rain for forty-two days successively. I cannot better 
illustrate this, than by relating an anecdote of an English travel- 
ler, and a waiter at one of the public inns. The traveller had 
arrived there for the first time. On the morrow, he intended to 
transact his business, but was prevented by the rain ; and so suc- 
cessively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the waiter, 
*^ What, my lad,", says he, does it alipaj/s rain here ?" " O na,'* 
says the waiter, it sometimes snaws," 

No material occurrence happened during my stay in Greenock, 
and I went on board the Warrington, on Wednesday, the 12th 
of March. A Mr. Ballard, of Boston, was my fellovv-passenggr 
in the cabin ; and a Mr. Miller and a Mr, M'Kenzie were pas- 
sengers in the steerage. 

We set sail at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied by the 
Factor, Caldwell, of New-York ; but the wind was light, and we 
made little progress. Both these vessels were very fast sailers, 
and had excited considerable interest which would sail best. A- 
mong others, I had a small bet depending on the success of our 
vessel. By dint of towing, we had got a little ahead of the Fac- 
tor, and were brought to and boarded by the crew of the tender, 
which was at the Tail of the Bank, who made a search for Brit* 
ish seamen, and conducted themselves with all the insolence of 
arbitrary power ; but all was found correct, and we were sufFe i^ 
ed to depart, 

In the mean time, a small breeze having sprung up, the Fac- 
tor, feeling it first, came up with us very fast, took the wind out 
of our sails, and fairly passed us, to the great joy of the one 
ship's company and mortification of the other. We felt the 
breezy in our turn, and kept right astern of the Factor fifteen 



28 TRAVELS ON 

miles, to the Cumbraes, where she hove to, to discharge the 
pilot, and we passed her ; and sheagampdssed us, while we were 
discharcrinff ours. 

Five miles below Greenock is the Clouffh Hsht-house, where 
the river contracts, and makes the sudden bend to the south be- 
fore noticed ; a little beyond which it spreads out into a spacious 
firth, and embosoms several islands, the chief of which are Arran, 
Bute, and the Cumbraes. It is bounded with high lands on both 
sides, and the islands are generally rugged and lofty. Arran, in 
particular, rises into very high mountains. The channel is very 
safe, and is navigable, at all seasons, for vessels of any burden. 

It was dark when we discharged the pilot, and I retired to 
rest. When I rose in the morning, I found we had passed the 
island of Arran, and were abreast of that singularly insulated 
rock, in the middle of the channel, celebrated iii song by the 
favourite Scottish bard, Burns-— =• 

" Meg was deaf as ^ilsa CraigJ' 

Here we had a very extensive view of the Scottish and Irish 
coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead. 

The wind continued lisht and variable, so that we did not 
get out of the channel until the afternoon, when we passed the 
Mull of Cantyre, soon after which we- passed Rathlin Island; 
and on the morning of the 14th, we found ourselves in the At- 
lantic Ocean, and had a most extensive view of the north-west 
coast of Ireland, and the Western Islands of Scotland- In the 
afternoon, we were abreast of Tory Island, from whence we 
took our departure, ami, bestowing my benediction on the British 
islands, I committed myself to the waters of the Atlantic, 
lioping for a speedy and pleasant passage, and a safe arrival on 
Columbia's shore. 

The wind continued very variable, accompanied with cold, 
stormy weather, with rain, hail, and snow, occasionally, until 
the 16th, when it got more settled. During all this time, we 
had kept sight of the Factor, but she was generally ahead. We 
now took a fair, strong breeze from the eastward, at the com- 
mencement of which the Factor was ahead fully twelve miles, 
and the ships had now a good opportunity for trying their full 
speed. We soon found that we gained^ upon the Factor very fast, 
and finally passed her on the morning of the 17th, to the great 
mortification of her captain, who trie^ her on all tacks, but with 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 29 

•ut success ; and he finally shaped his course more to the north- 
Wjard, and yye lost sight of the vessel during the day. 

This breeze continued, wafting us along at the rate of nine or 
ten miles an hour, until the afternoon of the 20th, when we were to 
the westward of the Western Islands, and congratulating ourselves 
on the prospect of a speedy passage. — But, lo ! a sudden reverse 
took place. The wind, which was blowing from the soutli-east, 
increased into a furious gale, and the ship was brought from top- 
gallant and studding sails, to foresail and close-reefed main 
top-sail. The gale increased, the ship laboured hard, and ship- 
ped a great many heavy seas ; but at 1 o'clock, on the morning 
cf the 21st, it lulled into a perfect calm. It was now that we 
felt the most disagreeeble eifeqts of the gale ; for the sea had 
risen mountains high, and the ship, having no sail to steady her, 
partook of the motion of every wave, and rolled so sharp, that 
she threatened to toss her masts overboard. This state of things 
was, however, of short duration. At 2 o'clock, the wind shifted 
to the north-west, blowing most furiously, till about sunrise, 
when it became a little more moderate, and we made sail ; al- 
though the cross tumbling sea, occasioned by the contrary gales, 
made our sailing intolerably uneasy. 

We had now a series of head winds, and disagreeable weather, 
which will be best described by giving an extract from my sea 
journal. 

March 22. First part, strong gales and clear weather, Middle 
and latter part, strong gales, with rain and hail, a very heavy 
sea, and the ship labouring hard. 

23. Strong gales and thick weather all these twenty-four hours, 
a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. At 9 o'clock in the 
evening, the ship was struck with a very heavy sea, which carried 
away the bulwarks, and split the starboard plank sheer yearly 
the whole length of the main deck, washed the cambouse-house 
out of its place, and nearly carried the cabin-boy overboard. At 
12 o'clock at night, shipped another very keavy sea. 

24;. Commences with strong gales and a heavy sea. Middle 
part more moderate, but a heavy sea, and the ship labouring 
hard. Latter part moderate, and all hands employed in repair- 
ing the damages of the gale. 

25. First part, fresh breezes and clear. Middle, tremendousi 
quails. Latter part, ligKt a^rs, inclining to a calm. 



so TRAVELS ON 

26. First part, light winds. Middle and latter part, frcsfe 
breezes and cloudy. 

27. First part, fresh breezes, and thick hazy weather. Middle 
part, the breeze increased to a most tremendous gale, and at 
1 1 o'clock at night, the ship was struck with such a sea, as made 
her quiver to her centre. ISIy fellow-passenger was thrown out 
of his birth with the violence of the sho^k, and the cabin was 
nearly filled with water. There was no making sail in this 
weather, and the ship was hove to. Latter part, very strong 
gales, with furious squalls, a very heavy sea, running, and the 
ship leaking much in her upper works. 

This, and those of the 21st and 2.3d, were the only severe gales 
we encountered, but we had a series of head winds, gales, and 
squalls with occasional showers of rain, hail, and snow, till the 
22d of April, when I find the following remarks in my Journal ; 
*' Being now out fo; ty-one days, and little more than two-thirds 
of the passage, the wind right against us, and jio appearance of 
ehifting, we apprehend a long passage, and the ship's company 
are put on short allowance of water. I am much afraid our goods 
will be too late tor the Savannah market," , 

The head winds continued, but we had more moderate weather, 
though occasional gales, till the 26th, when wc spoke a sloop out 
two days from Bermuda. Being now near these little islands, I 
may step out of my course to describe them, though I did not see 
them. » 

They are four in number, and were discovered by John Bermu- 
das, a Spaniard, in 1527; but the Spaniards neglecting them, 
they were again discovered by Sir George Sompiers, Avho was 
shipwrecked on them in 1609. Of these islands, the chief is St. 
George, having a capital of the same nam^^ consisting of about 
500 houses, built of soft free-stone. St. George contains about 
3000 inhabitants, and the whole islands perhaps about 9000, of 
whom nearly, two-thirds are slaves. The people are chiefly occu- 
pied in building small craft, with which they trade to Canada and 
the West Indies ; and they are said to be very expert at the busi- 
ness of privateering. The ciyil government is vested in a gover- 
nor, council, and general assembly. The religion is that of the 
church of England, and a native of Perth, in Scotland, is minister. 

The head winds still continued, but the weather was moderate ; 
and after crossing the gulf stream, we ma^e the land on the 7th of 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, Ol 

May, supposed to be cape Look-out, on the coast of North Caro- 
lina. But the head winds still continued, and we were (to use a 
sea phrase) jammed in betwixt the gulf stream and the coast, so 
that we could make no progress whatever till the 10th, when, to 
our great joy, we got a fair wind, which wafted us briskly along, 
and we made Tybee Light-house early on the morning of the 12tK 
of May, after a turbulent, disagreeable passage of 61 days. 

The breeze continuing favourable, we soon approached the bar, 
where, having got a pilot, we waited half an hour for the tide^ 
and then made sail up Savannah river ; which I found a perfect 
contrast to the Clyde, the banks being low and muddy, and the 
country round a perfect level. In our passage up we saw a good 
many fishes and alligators ; which last are frightful-looking animals, 
but they are by no means so dangerous as generally represented. 
At 2 o'clock we passed a bend in the river called Four Mile 
Point, and at 3 came to anchor at Five Fathom Hole; where 
having dined on board, for the last time, we set out in the small 
boat for Savannah, which, we reached at 5 o'clock. 



CHAPTER 11. 

General Remarks, 

JL HE most material circumstances v/hich happened on board, 
are recorded in the foregoing chapter ; but the passage may admit 
of the following ijeneral remarks. 

The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of 318 tons burden, 
remarkably handsome and well found, and a very fast sailer : but 
her cargo was light, and all at the bottom, so that she was not 
well trimmed for sea ; and her motion was sharp, and intolerably 
uneasy. 

Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a sailor on board 
of this same vessel, and raised himself by his own merit to the 
rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge did not seem to bo 
great, but he was an excellent seaman, and very careful in the 
management of the vessel. 

He was provided with an» excellent mate, in Mr. Arnold ; who 
to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a correct knowledge 
of the theory and practice of navigation, and sciences connected 



82 Travels on 

with it t he was moreover a very agreeable, intelligent man, and t 
received much information from his remarks. 

Mr. Ballard, my fellow passenger, was an intelligent, good- 
natured young man. With the steerage passengers I had of course 
less connection, but they were agreeable ) and the sailors behaved 
themselves with propriety during the passage. 

The motion of the vessel was too great to permit us to arouse 
ourselves at any game ; and I devoted my time pretty closely to 
the study of navigation, geography, astronomy, and chart draw- 
ing ; in which I flattered myself that I made tolerable proficiency. 
The study of chemistry took up part of my "time, and so also did 
general literature and music. To the principles of merchandize 
in general, and the trade between Glasgow and Savannah in par- 
ticular, I paid much attention, and drew up an essay on the ship- 
ping trade between the two places, and the best method of prose- 
cuting it; but circumstances have since occurred which render it 
of little importance to the general reader, and I omit it, and sub- 
stitute in its place the following reflections on t|ie prevailing winds 
and currents, with other phenomena, in the Atlantic ; and an in- 
quiry as to the best courses across that oqean at different seasons 
of the year. 4. 

I. OF THE WINDS OF THE ATLANTIC. 

The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, from 23^° 
S. to 231° N. latitude being 4-7 degrees in breadth; and is a constant 
motion of the air from east to west, having a little variation near 
the extremes, that is, towards the southern tropic it inclines to the 
south-east, and towards the northern tropic it inclines to the north- 
east. The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the action of 
the sun, which is always vertical at one point or another between 
the tropics ; combined with the diurnal motion of the eaith, which 
has a greater velocity here than at any other point. The action 
of a vertical sun rarefies and expands the air, in consequence of 
which it rises ; and the motion of the earth sweeping from under it 
at the rate of more than 1000 miles an hour to the eastward, 
causes a constant current of air to the westward. The velocity 
of this current is various ; but when' I sailed in it, in my voyage 
to the West Indies, it was very strong, and regular, carrying a. 
heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 lEiiles an hour, and it never 
sliified a point from due east. 



A' 



THE AtLANTiC OCEAK.' 3S 

A little attention to the nature of this wind may be useful, as 
it illustrates the theory of the variable winds, and bears with 
considerable fbrde upon tlie theory of the climate of the United 
States. 

From the tropic of Cancer, in 23^°, to about 28° north lati- 
tude, the wind generally blows from the north-east, and is a 
branch of the trade windj partaking of its nature. Between the 
latitudes of 28" and 32° north, the winds are very irregular; and 
that being the region between the trade and variable winds, it is 
subject to frequent calms. Between the latitudes of 28° and 50° 
north, westerly winds are by far the most prevalent, particularly 
in the winter and spring, during which they frequently rise to furi- 
ous gales and squalls. Beyond 50° north, I had not occasion to 
remark, but I believe they are most prevalent from the north-west. 

IL OF THE GULF STREAM. 

This stream is a consequence arising from the trade winds* 
By an inspection of the chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it will be 
seen, that the vast quantity of water of which that ocean is made 
up, must be aifected by a constant current of air sweeping along 
it in one direction. This must necessarilv sive a small dcsree of 
motion to the water, which being slanted off by the direction of 
the coast of South America, has, towards the southern extremity, 
a north-west motion, and proceeding through the West India 
islands, raises the waters in the gulf of Mexico beyond the level 
of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans. The current being stopt by 
the isthmus of Darieny winds along the northern coast of the gulf 
of Mexico, in search of a level, and finds an outlet through the 
gulf of Florida, between the island of Cuba and the south point 
of East Florida. From thence it proceeds in a north-east direc- 
tion, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of 60 or 70 
miles from the land, until it reaches cape Hatteras, where it ap- 
proaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast ; here it tends more 
to the eastward, until it reaches the coast of Nova Scotia, when 
it takes a course nearly due east. It continues this course iiatil 
it reaches the Great Bank of Newfoundland, wliere it seems to 
be materially affected, and diverging to a greater breadth, is 
finally lost towards the Azores and Madeira islands. 

The breadth of this stream, in the gulf of Florida, is about 

6 



S4 TRAVELS IN 

30 or iO miles. It encreases as it proceeds to the north-east : 
opposite cape Hatteras it is about 150 miles; off the coast of Nova 
Scotia it is about 4? degrees ; and at the Bank of Newfoundland 
it is about 5 degrees ; from thence diverging to 6 or 7. 

The velocity of the current is, in the gulf of Florida, about 
five or six miles an hour, but it decreases as it proceeds to the 
north-east. Opposite cape Hattei*as it is about two miles ; off 
the coast of Nova Scotia it is about one and a half; and at the 
banks of Newfoundland it is about one mile. 

The probability is, that its course is directed to the eastward 
by the influence of the rivers issuing from the coast of America, 
particularly the great river St. Lawrence, opposite to which it 
seems to make the greatest bend; and it is also probable that 
the confluence ot these waters and another stream proceeding from 
Davis' Straits, has contributed to raise the Banks of Newfound- 
land. 

The temperature of this stream is different from that of the 
surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters in the gu?f 
of Mexico, being generally 10 or 12 degrees warmer than the 
other parts of the ocean. Hence it affects the temperature of the 
air above it, which is frequently subject, particularly in the spring, 
to calms, fogs, whirlwinds, water spouts, and storms of thunder 
and lightning. The heavy fogs which hover over the Banks of 
Newfoundland, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with 
the cold atmosphere generated by the stream from Davis' Straits. 

The next phenomenon which I shall notice, as bearing on this 
subject, is, that islands of ice, sometimes numerous and of great 
extent, are carried by the stream from Davis' Straits, in the 
spring season ; and before they are dissolved by the warmth of 
the Atlantic, they sometimes extend as far south as the latitude (xf 
45° or 40°, and as far east as the longitude of 48° or 50°. Vessels 
sailiufy to and from America have been frequently entangled 
amongst them, and some have been totally lost. 

A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of considerable 
importtuicc to our inquiry, and the following practical deductions, 
may be of service to those interested in the result. 

1st. Ships bound irom Britain to the West Indies should shape 
their course from the channel to St. Mary's, one of the Azores; 
from thence to where the longitude of 40° intersects the latituda 
of 231°; and from thence rmi down the trades for the intended 



GEORGIA. 0& 

port. Ships bound from Europe to the gulf of Mexico, should 
keep the same course. The return from the West Indies and 
Mexico to Europe is different according to situation, as a few de- 
grees of longitude make an important variation. Generally speak- 
ing, it is best for vessels to bear to the northward until they get in- 
to the variable winds, and then keep along with them in the near- 
est way to their intended port. 

2d. Vessels bound to the southward of the capes of Virginia in 
the United States, should, in the spring, shape their course for 
St. Mary's, as aforesaid ; from thence to about where the longitude 
of 35** intersects the latitude of 28°, where they will, at that sea- 
son, most likely meet with an easterly wind, failing which they are 
sure to fall in with it a few degrees flirther south ; run down with 
it due west till they arrive on the confines of the gulf stream ; and 
then bear away for the intended port. By taking this southern 
course, at this season, they will avoid several difficulties. 1st. The 
danger of falling in with islands of ice. 2dly. The necessity of 
passing the gulf stream where it is four or five degrees broad, and 
at that season subject to much bad weather And 3dly. The 
chance of meeting with a series of head winds. In the autumn 
the^e is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mild, and the 
westerly winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between 28° and 
32° are much subjected to calms, so that it is best, upon the whole, 
to run for the intended port. 

3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capes of Virginia 
should shape their course direct for the intended port, They 
have no occasion to cross the gulf stream, and, as to the ice, it 
may be prudent to keep a little to the southward, as they appnoach 
the Banks of Ne^vfoundland. 

^th. Vessels bound to Europe from any port of America, can- 
pot dp better than run direct for the intended port. 



CHAPTER III. 

Savannah. 

JL HE first objects that attracted my attention on my arrival in 
Savannah, was the sallow appearance of the inhabitants, and the 
extreme warmth of the weather; the thermometer being at 91°. 
I naturally concluded that as the season advanced the heat would 



36 TRAVELS IN 

increase, and would soon be almost intolerable. This opinion was 
strengthened by some of the inhabitants who are in the liabit o* 
alarming strangers concerning the climate ; but I was afterwards 
informed by a judicious medical gentleman, that there would be 
few days warmer than this, and that the weather would be, upon 
the whole, much cooler. This opinion I found to be correct, for 
in a few dnys the thermometer fell below 70'', and it seldom rose 
above 85° while I continued in Savannah. 

The next circumstance that made a forcible impression upon me 
was the great difference between this place and any other 1 had 
seen befpre. There was no distant view — no external object to 
amuse the fancy — the whole country round, north, south, east, and 
west, was one dull scene which excited no interest ; and the music 
of the birds of heaven was exchanged for the dull croaking of the 
bull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musquetoe. Neverthe- 
less, I soon got familiarized to the place, and even fond of it. 
Jyly business, which was well organized, was succeeding to my wish, 
and the inhabitants, whom I found very obliging, became every 
day more amiable in my eyes. 

Savannah is situated in 32 ° 3' north latitude, on a high sandy 
bank, or bluff on the south side of the Savannah river, 17 miles 
from the sea. The city is laid out on an elegant plan, and is about 
a mile in length from east to west, and about a quarter of a mile 
in breadth. It consists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, con* 
taining about 1000 houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about 
2500 are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, acar 
demy, bank-office, and five places for public worship. There has 
lately been built a very handsome exchange, with a spire and ob- 
servatory, from whence vessels may be seen out at sea 10 or 12 
piiles. The situation of Savannah is favourable both for health 
and commerce. The bluff on which it is built is from 50 to 70 
feet high, so that there is a fine descent to the river. This bluff is 
a bed of very fine sand ; and by digging wells about 60 or 70 feet 
deep, a supply of excellent water is procured, probably a filtration 
from the river. The streets are broad and airy, and the city, being 
only 17 miles from the sea, frequently enjoys a sea breeze, which 
is cool and refreshing in the summer season. 

" The trade of the city is considerable, and employs 13 regular 
ships to Britain ; 15 packet brigs and schooners to New York ; two 
or three to Philadelphia, Baltimore and Boston; two or three 



GEORGIA. 37 

sloops to Charleston ; and four or five vessels to the West Indies, 
Besides these, there are a number of vessels that come from the 
northward, annually, to take freight for Britain, and the continent 
of Europe, 

The country in the vicinity contributes but little to the supply of 
the city. To the south it is sandy and barren for a considerable 
distance ; to the northj east, and west, considerable crops of rice 
are raised ; but it is thought that the rice fields contribute to make 
the city unhealthy. Cotton and rice are the staple commodities of 
the state ; and Savannah being the only shipping port in it, is, of 
course, the general mart for the disposal of these articles. The sea- 
island cotton ©f this state is reckoned superior to any in America. 
The principal islands where it is raised are St. Symons and Cum- 
berland ; but it is planted and comes to maturity in all the other 
islands along the coast from Charleston southward, as well as on 
other places of the -seaboard, and is thence called seaboard cotton, 
or, as some of my Scots friends would have it, " seabuird "woo.'* 
The exports from the state amount to above two millions of dollars 
annually ; besides what is carried coastwise, which is not entered 
at the custom-house, and which may probably amount to as much 
more. The great value is in cotton, and the whole centres in Sa- 
vannah. The imports are from Europe, the West Indies, and the 
northern states, and consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, 
&c.j and it is presumed they are nearly equal in value to the ex- 
ports. Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dollars, and allow 
7 per cent, commission to the Savannah merchants, the result will 
be 560,000 dollars, as the annual income of Savannah, which may 
perhaps be pretty near the truth. 

Savannah river is one of the most important in America. Its 
head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near the moun- 
tains, and form a junction about 220 miles from the sea ; from thence 
it runs a south-east course, and falls into the ocean 17 miles below 
Savannah. It receives several small streams in its progress, and 
is the boundary line between Georgia and South Carolina, during 
its whole course. It is navigable for ships of any burden to within 
three miles of Savannah ; for ships of 250 tons to Savannah ; and 
for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta are the Ra- 
pids, and, after passing them, the river can be navigated 80 miles 
higher, in small boats, to the junction of the head waters. It may 
^e remarked that through the medium of this river a considerable 



98 TRAVELS IN 

part of the produce of South Carohna is carried to the Savannah 
market. 

The river abounds with fish, and the water is soft and good ; but 
the country on its banks is by no means healthy, especially in the 
lower part of the state. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Savannah^ — Waj/?iesboroughy — Louisville. 

Having arranged my affairs in Savannah, and ponfided the 
management of the business to a trusty assistant, I resolved, in 
pursuance of my original plan, to make a tour to the upper coun- 
jtry, for the purpose of acquiring information, and forming con- 
nexions. The season was far advanced for travelling, in that coun- 
try, but I trusted to a good constitution und temperate habits ; 
and finding a gentleman about to go to Augusta, I resolved to 
avail myself of his conipany. I accordingly purchased a horse, 
for which I paid 118 dollars, saddle and bridle included, and, 
Jiaving every thing prepared, we set out at mid-day on Friday, 
June 27th. We took the Augusta road, and at two miles from 
Savannah, we passed the branch which leads to Louisville. A 
little beyond this there is a fine spring of pure water, much fre- 
quented by the inhabitants of Savannah in the summer season. 
Seven miles from Savannah we met two travellers, who informed 
us that the creeks.* were all swelled to a great height, and the 
bridges broken down, so that we could not possibly get along. 
The road was, indeed, far from inviting. There had been a long 
series of rainy weather, and the afternoon was very sultry ; but 
yire resolved to go through, if possible, and accordingly kept on 
pur course. Two miles from where we met the travellers, we 
jreached the first obstacle, called Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge 
Yfas nearly gone, but we adjusted the rafters a little, and with 
some difficulty led our horses over. After travelling three miles 
piore, we reached Austin's Creek, and here, the bridge being 
entirely gone, we swam pur horses across. A mile further oq 
wc reached Black Creek, the largest and most dangerous of the 
three. It had swelled to a great extent ; in the middle the current 

t This term is, in the United States, applied to streams or rivulets. 



GEORGIA. 39 

was rapid, and the bridge was in a very shattered condition. We 
had to wade with our horses nearly belly deep, above 200 yards, 
before we carae to the bridge, and here alighting, I walked a- 
long, up to the knees in water, adjusting the rafters as weH as I 
could, and then with considerable difficulty led my horse over : 
a countryman, whom we came up with at tlie bridge, attempted 
to follow my example, but his horse fell through, and was near 
being lost. I pitied the poor man, who was in great "affliction 
for his crature, as he called the horse ; but we assisted him, and 
with considerable difficulty got the crature relieved. My fellow- 
traveller dechned following our example, and, stripping his horse, 
he swam him through the creek, himself walking along the re- 
mains of the shattered bridge. After passing the bridge, we had 
again to wade about 200 yards before we reached dry land ; and, 
a little beyond the creek, we arrived at Hely's Inn, where we 
stopt for dinner. Here we found the Augusta stage and passengers. 
They had set out two hours before us, and, having the same ob- 
stacles to encounter as ourselves, had been detained thus long. 
Our dinner consisted of fowls, bacon, eggs, butter, wheat bread, 
Indian corn bread, rice, and homony. The last mentioned dish 
I had not seen before, and it is not generally known. It is made 
of Indian corn cleared of the husk, and broken by beating, but 
not very small; it is then boiled in water to the consistence of 
pudding, and served up for use. When well prepared, it is very 
patalable, and is wholesome nutritive food. A little cherry bran- 
dy was the only liquor we could get. The charge for man and 
horse was 75 cents. 

Leaving Hely's, we travelled two miles, when my fellow-travel- 
ler stopped to point out the spot where two negroes were executed 
for killing an overseer. The one was hanged, and the other 
was burnt to death. I was informed that this mode of punishment 
is sometimes inflicted on negroes, when the crime is very flagrant, 
to deprive them of the mental consolation arising from a hope 
that they will after death return to their own country. This may be 
good policy as respects the blacks ; but, in mercy to the white 
people, I wish it could be avoided. When I looked at the 
scorched tree where the man had been tied, and observed the 
fragments of his bones at the foot of it, I was horror-struck ; and 
I never yet can think of the scene without a pang. What feeling* 
must have been excited in thosQ who saw the execution ! Thir* 



40 TRAVELS IN 

teeii miles beyond this we reached Berry's tavern, 26 miles fronl 
Savannah, and here we stopt for the night. 

The afternoon was sultry, and, in consequence of the heavy 
rains, the road was very bad. The first 13 miles we were quite 
enveloped in thick pine woods, with very little brush-wood. Tl^e 
soil is poor and sandy, so that there are few settlements. The 
last 15 miles were rather more pleasant, and there are more set- 
tlements ; but the counti-y is level, abounding with marshes, mus- 
quetoes, and bull-frogs ; and the soil continues poor and sandy. 

Saturday, 28th June, we rose at 3 o'clock and settled 
our bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one cents 
each; and travelled through a barren, swampy, unpleasant 
tract, 10 miles, when we stopped to breakfast at the house of a 
Major King. We were detained a long time here : but we were 
well compensated by getting an excellent breakfast, and the view 
of the place was far superior to any thing we had seen since we 
left Savannah. It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared 
for a considerable way round, and there is a clear rivulet in the 
neighbourhood, a thing uncommon in the low country; such 
streams being generally choaked up by brush-wood, and converted 
into swamps. 

After leaving King's, the country rises a little, but it is still 
poor and sandy. We travelled 10 miles to Scrogg's, and the 
day being exceedingly hot, we stopped here for dinner. Hearing 
the noise of a wheel up stairs, which was the first I had heard 
in America, I went to see what was going on. Here I saw a 
black girl carding cotton, and a daughter of the landlord spinning 
the rolls on the large wheel. They were quite busy, and appear- 
ed to be industrious and ha})py. After coming down stairs I 
entered into conversation with the mistress of the house, whom I 
found to be a sensible woman, and sufficiently communicative. She 
informed me, that they, as well as all the other families in the 
neighbourhood, spun cotton all the year round, and got the yarn 
woven into every article necessary for family use ; such as sheet- 
ing, shirting, toweling, table-cloths, govkns, petticoats, aprons, 
caps; pantaloons, vesting, and summer coats for the men's use; 
besides sofa-clothes, fringes, tassels, hosiery, &c. 1 examined the 
yarn and cloth, and found the fabrics substantial and durable. 
The cloth was neatly manufactured, and some of the articles 
were liandsome. I saw that this family was " independent of 



GEORGIA, 41 

commerce ;" and this was the first impression that I recewed as 
to the importance of the domestic manufactures of America. The 
idea was novel, and its tendency was to militate against my in- 
terest as an importer; yet I cannot say but that the feelings 
excited by it were of the pleasing kind. Self-interest is a proper 
principle, but it should be so regulated as not to blunt the feelings 
of humanity, nor to make us repine at the well-being of others. 

Leaving this comfortable cabin we travelled two miles, when, 
coming to a grocery store, we lighted to quench our thirst ; the af- 
ternoon being excessively hot and sultry. Here we saw a lady 
from Savannah, who, having lost two children in that city, had 
retired here with the third, the only one she had left. The child 
appeared to be thriving, and I hope will live to reward the mother 
for her maternal care. The Georgian ladies appear to be very 
fond of children, and, in the country at least, they seem to be suf- 
ficiently prolific ; for we hardly ever passed a house without see- 
ing a cluster of young ones: and often a child at the breast of a 
mother, whom, judging from external appearance, I would have 
reckoned past child-bearing. 

We travelled eight miles further, through a country nearly 
similiar to that we had passed, to Pcarce's ; and here we stopped 
for the night. 

This is one of the most pleasant places I had yet seen in Georn-ia. 
There are three plantations adjoining, so that the country is clear- 
ed for a considerable way round ; and being a little elevated, it is 
free from swamps, and tolerably healthy. Here we saw a number 
of starlings, and heard several mocking-birds, whose notes were 
very delightful. We retired to rest at nine o'clock; but 1 was so 
ovei'come with fatigue, that I enjoyed little repose. 

Sunday, 29th June. We set out at five o'clock in the mornino-, 
and travelling 1 1 miles through pine woods, and a barren sandy 
soil, we passed Beaverdam creek by a wooden bridge, and arrived 
at the village of Jacksonborough. It is situated on the nortli side 
of the creek, and consists of about 12 dwelling houses, a church, 
and jail. The situation is unhealthy on the creek, but the land is 
considerably elevated behind the town, and is said to be quite 
healthy. The view was gratifying to me, being the first rising 
ground I had seen in the United States. 

We travelled nine miles beyond this to Burrel's, to breakfast. 
The country is completely barren, and covered with pine trees, 

6 



42 



TRAVELS IN 



Avithout any brusliwood, the whole way, but the air was clastic antl 
aii^rceablc. It is a comnion remark in Georgia, that the pine lands 
are heuhh}'; and the circumstance may probably be accounted for 
by sui)posing, tliat the resinous particles ol' the pine may contri- 
bute to increase the oxygen of the atmosphere; while, the woods 
being generally on barren ground, no pernicious gases are gene- 
rated uncongenial to the human system. A great portion of the 
subsistence of the human body, is received by breathing. The 
atmosphere is principally composed of two fluids, oxygen and 
azote, in the proportion of nearly throe-tburths of the latter to 
one-fourth of the former. It is the oxygen that supports animal 
life. In respiration it is absorbed by the lungs, and combines 
with the blood, which gives it its tlorid colour; while the azote is 
thrown out by the return of the breathing. There are other fluids 
which mingle occasionally with the atmosphere, the principal of 
which is hydrogen, which is guncrated freely by the decompo- 
sition of vegetable and animal matter in water; and this fluid is 
not simply unfit for respiration in a negative sense — it is positively 
noxious. Hence that state of the atmosphere which contains oxy- 
gen in the proper portion, and where there is no other gas, except 
azote, must be the fittest for respiration ; and, from a consideration of 
these circumstances, we may see the reason why high hilly countries, 
or well-drained low countries, are healthy — while crowded cities, 
abounding in filth, and low marshy situations iji the country, arc 
the reverse. — From this reasoning wc may draw the following prac- 
tical deductions. 

1st. Cities shoidd be so constructed, as to admit a current of free 
air into every sjiot. They shoidd be kept very clean ; and no 
stagnant water, or latent filth, should be allowed to accumulate in 
or about them. 

*Jd. Low countries, when fixed upon as the residence of man, 
should be drained; oi', if that be impractiable, the houses should 
be as far removed from all stagnant water as possible. 

3d. In those diseases which are the eOect of breathing impure air, 
perhaps it would hv beneficial to ailminister oxygen to the lungs as 
a medicine. The use of vinegar in diseases of this kind is well 
known. It is almost wholly composetl of oxygen, and it parts 
with it freely ; so that on sprinkling a sick chamber with it, an 
odour inimediately vises, which is botli grateful and beneficial to 
the patient. iSeveial plants have the same effect, particularly 



GEORGIA. 43 

those having an acid smell. I was once recovered from fainting 
by the application of southernw^ood. I had been afFecled by 
breathing air deprived of its oxygen in a crowded churcli. The 
oxygen of the plant supplied the defect, and relieved me. 

Having breakfasted, we pursued our journey 11 miles through 
a country nearly similar to that already described, but rather in an 
improving state, to where the road forks; the right branch 
leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesborough. We took that 
towards Waynesborough, on wiiich the country improves rapidly. 
In place of pine barrens, swamps, and muddy creeks, we had 
liow an elevated dry road, agreeably uneven, and adorned on 
each side with natural woods, consisting of pine, oak, hickory, 
jmd black-jack. The underwood was pretty thick and bushy; in- 
jdicating a considerable degree of fertility. Seven miles from 
where we left the Augusta road we reached widow Laseter's, where 
we stopped to dinner, and were hospitably entertained. The heal- 
thiness of the plape was visible in the countenances of the family, 
among whom were two pretty little girls. 

A little before we reached this place we passed a church, which 
we were informed belongs to the methodists. This sect has been 
long established in Georgia, and the zeal with which they hav« 
propagated their opinions, and enforced the principles of morality 
amongst their votaries, does them credit. They have been of con- 
siderable use in society, and I wish them success in every good 
work. But I cannot see the propriety of some of their proceed- 
ings. Their camp meetings may be very well meant, and may be 
calculated to do some good ; but they are a species of " holy fair" 
at which " grace" is not the only commodity to be puixhased ; 
and, from the mode in which they are frequented by the profane 
and the profligate, it is questionable whether the evil attending 
them does not overbalance the good. And I can see as li,ttle sense 
in the practice they often have of thumping and making a noise in 
the time of divine service, thereby converting tluj temple of the 
Lord into a scene of confusion and discord, exciting the laughter 
of the p;-ofane, and distracting the serious. We were informed 
that a little before we reached this place, a poor girl was so affect- 
ed, that she fell down in a fit ; and that a black female preacher, 
of the name of Dorothy Ripley, frequently attended, and had the 
art of playing upon the passions so effectually, that she would 
sometimes trip halt a dozen of her hearers. " Let all things be 



44 TRAVELS IN 

done decently and In order," says the apostle. Let the methodists 
go and do likewise. 

While we were speaking, we saw a crowd of men, women, and 
children, who had been at a baptist camp meeting. The baptists 
are said to be one of the most numerous and influential religious 
societies in the state. They are also zealous in propagating their 
opinions, and are pretty austere in their manners ; but I did not 
hear of any excesses in their camp meetings or churches. 

Leaving Mrs. Laseter's, we travelled four miles to Waynes- 
borough, and lodged at the house of Mr. W^ynnc ; who to the 
business of tavern-keeper joins that of post master. 

Waynesborough is built principally on one street, and consists 
of about 40 dwelling houses, church, jail, academy, and court- 
rooms. It contains 220 inhabitants, of whom above one half arc 
slaves. The land in its vicinity is pretty good ; is cultivated a 
considerable way round ; and there are in its neighbourhood some 
very wealthy planters. It is distant from Savannah river 12 miles, 
and has a considerable trade in dry goods and groceries. 

Having spent a day in this place, and parted with my fellow- 
traveller, who took tlie road to Augusta, I set out for Louisville 
on Tuesday the 1st of July, at five o'clock in the morning. Five 
miles from Waynesborough I came to a fine spring, and descended 
a considerable way by a stony path to a rivulet, on which I heard 
the sound of several mills. The sound of machinery is always 
grateful to my ear, and the view of the stones excited no small de- 
gree of interest; being the first that I had seen in the United 
States. After travelling nine miles, further, through a barren 
country, I came to a deserted church, where the road forks. I 
took the wrong road, which led me out of my course among a 
number of plantations. I found the inhabitants were principally 
Irish people, by one of whom I was informed of my mistake, and 
got directions as to the best method of rectifying it. The family 
>vere at breakfast, consisting of pork, potatoes, and coffee ; and I 
was hospitably invited to partake, but I declined it ; and, pursuing 
the directions received, I soon reached the waggon road from Sa- 
vannah, and arrived at Louisville, at 10 o'clock. 



GEORGIA. 



45 



CHAPTER V, 

Louisville. 

AiDUISVILLE is the present capital of the state of Georgia, 
and is situated on the nortli-east bank of the Ogechee river, 70 
miles from its outlet, and 100 miles west from Savannah. It con- 
sists of about a hundred dwelling houses, and contains about 550 
inhabitants, ofwhoni nearly one half are slaves. It is built on an 
plevated situation, and there is a pretty extensive view to the west- 
ward ; but considerable marsh effluvia is generated on the banks of 
the river, which renders the jJace rather imhealthy. The country 
in the neighbourhood is well cultivated ; and Louisville contains a 
civil, well-bred society. There are ten dry-goods and grocery 
stores in the place, and they have a considerable inland trade. Lou- 
isville is at present the seat of government, but it is about to be re- 
moved to Milledgeville, a new settlement, about 50 miles distant. 

It was my intention to go further up the country, and I had c- 
very thing prepared for that purpose ; but in the evening I was sud- 
denly seized with a fever, which defeated my object, and at one 
time threatened very serious consequences. The day had been un- 
commonly hqt and sultry ; the thei-mometer stood as high as OS^"* 
in the shade. In the evening there was a cool thunder gust, and 
the night got very close and sultry. I went to bed early ; but I 
had scarcely lain down when I found the fever come on with ex- 
treme violence. I was in danger of suffocation, and ran to the 
window to get fresh air; but all was still — there was not a breath 
of air stirring. I observed three beds in the room, empty, and 
thought I would tiy an experiment : I wrapped myself up in a 
blanket, and taking all the clothes of the three beds, I threw them 
over me. I had a small bottle of Madeira wine prepared for the 
journey, of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My pulse 
rose to 1 30, and I suffered the most excruciating pain for about 
Jialf an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out an.d relieved 
me. I partook freely of the wine, and kept up the perspiration 
until morning, when the fever was quite gone ; but I was debilitated 
to such a degree that I could hardly stand. 

On getting up, I judged it expedient to take medical advice, 
.ind applied to a Dr. Powell, who prescribed some medicine, and 



46 TRAVELS IN 

advised me to decline going further up the country at present, the 
season being quite too far advanced for travelling. He recom- 
mended to stop two or three days in Louisville, and then to cross 
over to Augusta by the way of Richmond Spi*ings, where I could 
stop a few days, and in case I found I could not travel from Au- 
gusta on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I resolved 
to follow, and made my arrangements accordingly. 

Having, in consequence of this determination, a little time to 
spai-e, I wished to apply it to the best advantage, and I was kindly 
assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He invited me to his house, and 
introduced me to Mrs. Powell, a very sensible judicious lady, by 
whom I was treated with marked attention. 

The doctor and his lady gave me every information that could 
be desired, and I was finally invited to take a bed at their house, 
by which means I was relieved from the bustle of a public tavern, 
and the still more disagreeable sting of the musquetoes with which 
the bedrooms in it were infested. 

On Friday, the 4th of July, I had quite recovered from my in- 
disposition, and walked out in the morning to see the state-house. 
It is a good building of brick, about 50 feet square, and consists of 
two stories, having three apartments each, and a large lobby. The 
house of representatives meet in an apartment on the lower floor, 
and the other two arc occupied as the secretary's office, and the 
land office. The upper story consists of the senate chamber, the 
executive office, and the treasury. The offices were all shut ex- 
cept the land office ; I went into it, and saw a map of the newly 
acquired territory, or purchase^ as it is called ; concerning which 
the legislature had ^recently passed an act that was the subject of 
considerable animadversion in the state. 

This territory is situated between the Oakmulgee and Oco- 
nee rivers ; and was lately acquired in exchange with one of the 
Indian tribes. The land is said to be rich and valuable ; and it is 
very extensive, consisting of about 100 tracts, of 12 miles by 8. It 
is to be disposed of by lottery, in which every citizen of the United 
States who has resided three years in Georgia, is entitled to a draw 
for 200 acres ; and those who get the prizes have to pay 12 dollars, 
being the expence of surveying only. 

This I regard as a very improper way of disposing of public pro- 
perty, and it is peculiarly baneful to practise it under the reprcr 
tentative system. Property, when public, belongs to every memlier 



GEORGIA. 47 

of the community, and no alienation ought to take place without 
securing alike the rights of all; but this can never be done by a lot- 
tery, which i^ a game of chance, — and all cannot be gainers. To the 
gainer it is more tlian well — he gets an advantage over his neigh- 
bour, and is satisfied ; but who indemnifies the loser ? 

In this case would it not have been better for the state to have 
retained it, and sold it out at the market price ? The funds arising 
from it might have been usefully apphed in making roads and 
bridges, in improving the navigation of rivers, draining marshes, 
&c. Legislators have a most important trust reposed in them, 
and should never sacrifice great national objects to obtain tempo- 
rary popularity. 

This being the anniversary of American independence, the day 
was ushered in by the firing of great guns ; and military companies 
had collected in Louisville, from the whole country round. On 
my retui'n to the tavern, I found a considerable number of the 
military assembled there. 1 was waited on by a committee of the 
artillery company, and received a very pohte invitation to dine 
with them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to ob- 
serve the mode of celebrating this day, so important in the annals 
of America. 

About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinner. The captain took his 
place at the head of the table, the oldest lieutenant at the foot ; 
the committee gave the different orders, and all were on an equal 
footinjj. Several of the state officers dined with them. 

After dinner they drank Madeira wine to a series of toasts, one 
for each state, which had been px'eviously prepared. Among the 
number were " The day we celebrate ;" " The land we live in ;" 
*' the president of the United States;" " Memory of general 
Washington." " Memory of Benjamin Franklin." Memory of 
John Pierce," &c. Each toast was followed by a discharge of 
artillery, and the music played an appropriate air. A number of 
excellent songs were sung, and the afternoon was spent with great 
conviviality and good humour. 

Having several calls to make in the town, I left the table early, 
but returned again in the evening, when I found that the cardial 
drop had added greatly to the elevation of the animal spirits of 
the company. They had also received an addition to their num- 
ber, by several military officers high in command, among whonx 
was major-general Jackson. Having occasion to give a toast, I 



48 TRAVELS IN 

availed myself of that opportunity, to impress them with favour- 
able sentiments towards my native country. America had been 
long regarded with a jealous eye by the councils of Britain, and 
an almost total alienation of affection was the consequence. I 
knew that Mr. Fox's administration was favourably disposed to- 
wards Americaj and I was inclined as far as I had opportunity, 
to impress the Americans with that belief. Accordingly, after 
thanking the company for the honour they had conferred upon 
me, and assuring them of my own friendly regard for the country, 
I proposed as a toast, " Mn Fox, and the independent whigs of 
Britain. May their joint endeavours with the government of the 
United States be the means of reconciling the differences between 
the two countries ; and to the latest posterity may Americans and 
Britons hail one another as brothers and as friends." This was 
cordially received, and drank accordingly ; and immediately after 
I was introduced to and politely received by the visiting officers. 

The whole of my observations in this place tended to convince 
me, that the Amei'ican character was very indifferently under- 
stood in Britain ; and, indeed, very much misrepresented. I 
was satisfied from every thing I saw and heard, that there was 
no animosity against the British jjeople whatever; and that the 
animosity against the British government was the consequence 
of what they conceive to be a series of injuries long persevered in, 
and some of them even justified on the score of privilege. 

Great mistakes may be committed, by judging of the American 
character from what is to be seen in the seajiorts. Nothing can 
be moi'e erroneous than a jiidgment so formed. The commercial 
cities of America are like those of other countries, and princjiple 
is often sacrificed at the shrine of commerce ; while a considerable 
part of the commerce of the United States is carried on by fo- 
reigners, each so anxious to extend the trade with his native 
country, in which he is most interested, that the tone of national 
sentiment is often lost, or but indistinctly seen, in the conflicting 
opinions which are every day promulgated. 

To view the American character fairly, we must go into the 
interior of the country, and there the first remark will probably 
be, that the inhabitants have a spirit of independence, and will 
brook no superiority. Fvery man is conscious of his own political 
importance, and will suffer none to treat him with disrespect. 
Kor is this disposition confined to one rank ; it pervades tlic whole 



GEORGIA. 49 

and is probably the best guarantee foi the continuance of the 
hberty and independence of the country. . . 

It has been remarked, that this disposition may encourage 
rudeness ; but I have not yet seen it. As the people will bend to no 
superiority, they really affect none ; and I am impressed with the 
belief, that it is a stranger's own fault, if he does not feel very 
happy among them. 

Saturday, July 5th. I left Louisville at 5 o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and travelled thi'ough a barren, sandy country, twenty miles 
to breakfast. From thence, 1 travelled eight miles more, through 
pine woods, to Richmond Springs, which I reached to dinner. 
Towards the springs, the country gets elevated, and ao-reeablv 
uneven; but the soil is miserably poor. The springs have no 
other medicinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of 
which there is here a considerable bed ; and there is a fine rivu- 
let, which Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously di- 
verted into a bathing-house ; and, at a great expence, has conver- 
ted the whole into bathing quarters, with ample accommodations. 
I staid two days at this place, and found my situation very com- 
fortable. I had an opportunity of bathing in the pure spring 
water once or twice a-da}-, and had limestone water, pure from 
the rock, to drink. Our victuals were good, and the cookery ex- 
cellent. My health I found re-estabhshed, and my spirits recruit- 
ed ; so that every thing concurred to render the place aoreeable. 

And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to Georr^ia 
is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of colour, and is disliked 
by the Georgian ladies, who will not go to her house. Where 
the ladies will ot go, the gentlemen will not go, and so poor 
Mr. Posner does not get a proper reward for his exertions, and 
the Georgians lose the benefit of one of the sweetest summer re- 
ti'eats in all the country. 

1 was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceedingly well 
pleased with madam Posner's attention. The old man is a sort 
of poet too, and, though his rhymes are not to be compared with 
those of Pope or Milton, yet they are humourously recited, and 
in a dialect that never fails to excite risibility. He favoured me 
with a copy of verses, which he addressed to a Httle swindling 
Jew of my acquaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated 
him ; and of which the concluding stanza will be sufficient to satis- 
fy the reader of his poetical powers. 

7 



50 TRAVELS IN 

But it surely was a great sin, 

To send me common whisky in place of Hollands gin. 
The worst remains behind, — 
To send me common Malaga, in place of good Maderia wine. 

Monday, July 7tb. Set out for Augusta, at 4 o'clock in the 
mornino-. The road, which is pretty good, runs through a hilly, 
uncultivated tract of country, on which there are some settle- 
ments, with several creeks, and saw and grist mills. I reached 
Augusta, which is sixteen miles from the springs, at 9 o'clock. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Au"ustay — South Carolina^ — SavannaJu 

Augusta is situated on a handsome plain, on the south side 
of Savannah River, 127 miles from Savannah, and contains about 
^iOO inhabitants, of whom above one-half are slaves. The public 
buildings are, two churches, an academy, a court-house, jail, a 
market-house, and several public warehouses. The town is at the 
head of large boat navigation, and carries on a very extensive and 
profitable trade, both wiih Savannah and the back country. 
Many of the merchants are wealthy, and import their goods; 
and the greater part of the others purchase in New York. The 
town was orignally settled by emigrants from Scotland : but the 
society is noW very mixed, and probably those of Irish extraction 
are the most numerous. The inhabitants are in general well- ' 
informed, and have a considerable taste for literature. They are _ 
affable in their deportment, and polite and hospitable to strangers. ^ 

The country round Augusta is agreeably diversified, and well 
cultivated. The whole plain, on which Augusta stands, is re- ^ 
markably fertile ; and towards the south-west, the country rises ' 
into considerable hills, interspersed with fertile plains, remarka- 
bly favourable for the culture of cotton ; and the cotton planta- 
tions are in a very thriving state. This is reckoned the boundary 
between the high and low country. The falls in the river are ^ 
three miles above Augusta, and immediately on leaving the town 
for the westward, the great contrast between this and the low ^ 
country is seen: in place of swamps, marshes, and sandy deserts, 
the senses are gmtified by high rising grounds, rich verdure ia 
the woods, and clear streams of water. 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 51 

I remained in Augusta, from the 7th to the 14 of July, during 
which period, I made several little excursions to the country, to 
see the cotton plantations, the greater part of which were in a 
thriving state. The river is here 500 yards broad, and very 
deep ; and I found the trade upon it to exceed my expectations. 
The weather was hot and sultry, the thermometer varying irom 
88° to 94°, though one day it fell as low as 72°. I was well 
pleased with the civilities of the inhabitants, and I left Augusts 
with sentiments of friendly regard towards them. 

A Mr. Scarborough, of North Carolina, gave me a very warm 
invitation to visit him wheir I was in the upper country, and I 
resolved to cross the Savannah River, and return by his place. 
i accordingly left Augusta on the 14th of July, at 11 o'clock, 
and, travelUng about three miles through the level plain on which 
the city stands, I crossed the river by a flat boat. The road rises, 
on the Carolina side, to a considerable eminence, but the soil is 
poor and sandy. At five miles from the river, I called at a very 
handsome plantation, belonging to a Mr. Taylor, by whom I 
was hospitably detained to dinner. A planter from the neigh- 
bourhood'was there, and, as his plantation lay on my route, I 
availed myself ^of his company, and had a very agreeable ride, 
of twelve miles, to the saw-mill and store of a Scots gentleman, 
where I stopped for the night. 

On the 15th, at day-break, I proceeded Ian my journey, 
through a low, swampy, barren country, where the road forked 
so often, that I travelled with difficulty ; but, after missing my 
way several times, I reached Mr. Scarborough's at 1 1 o'clock, 
where I found a most hospitable welcome. 

On my way I passed many creeks and saw-mills, and I learned 
that a considerable trade, in this part of the country, consists in 
sawing timber into boards and planks, called lumber, and floating 
them down the river to a market. 

Mr. Scarborough has a very comfortable establishment, con- 
sisting of a good farm, a store, and saw-mill ; and, being much 
respected, has the best trade in this part of the country. On 
going into the store, I was surprised to observe the vast variety 
of articles it contained ; consisting of dry goods, groceries, hard- 
ware, earthenware, medicines, &c. I was informed, that the 
mode of doing business was to give a credit to the planters till 
the crop was ready for market, and then to take their surplus 



62 TRAVELS ON 

produce, consisting principally of cotton, in payment. The busi- 
m Si was conducted by a discreet Englishman, and they had an ex- 
cellent run ; but I learned that country stores had multiplied to 
iuch. an extent, that the business was overdone generally, and 
peojjle would need to be very cautious in dealing with country 
merchants. 

Havino; been most hospitably entertained by this flimily for two 
days, 1 took my departure for Savannah, on Thursday, 17th 
July, and rode 28 miles through a very barren country, contain- 
ing few settlement?, to the hoyse of a Mrs. Dunn, where I stop- 
ped for the night. 

Friday, 18th. Set out at daylight, and travelled through i\ 
more dismal country than any that I had yet seen. From Mrs- 
Dunn's to Sisters's fefry, on the Savannah river, 14 miles distant, 
there is hardly a single settlement. The country is perfectly leve^, 
except towards the river, where there are a few sand-hills; the 
woods are mostly pine, and I found some settlements had been 
attempted, and abandoned by the settlers. At one of these I 
met with a considerable disappointment : I came to a fork of the 
road, and, seeing a plantation at a distance, I rode to it, to inquire 
the right way ; but, lo ! on my arrival there, 1 found it inhabit- 
ed by goats only. 

1 arrived at the river about nine o'clock, and crossed the ferry 
in a flat boat. The river is here about 250 j'ards broad, and flows 
with a majestic sweep. I travelled nearly a mile through a muddy 
swamp, in which the horse was frequently up to the knees, and 
I was much annoyed by musquetoes. From this swamp, the ground 
rises abruptly, to a considerable elevation, and bears evident 
marks of having been at one time the bank of the river. From 
hence I travelled about a mile, when I came into the Savannah 
road, not far from King's tavern, mentioned in the fourth chap- 
ter. 1 found the Savannah road now dry and good, and I tra- 
velled on with great expedition to Berry's, where the day being 
very hot and sultry, I proposed to remain for the night. 

Towards two o'clock, the weather became cool, with an east 
wind, and I set out for Savannah ; but I had not travelled far, 
when I saw all the signs of an approaching storm. To the east, 
the atmosphere was black and dismal; the wind was irregular, 
and sometimes whistled violently ; I could see the lightning flash 
in thq olouds, and heard the thunder roar at a distance ; but I 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 53 

was tempted by the coolness of the air to proceed, and observing 
that the settlements were pretty thick by the way side, I resolved 
not to take shelter until there was absolute necessity. While I was 
meditating thus, I was suddenly and dreadfully alarmed. A stream 
of electric fluid, apparently as thick as a man's wrist, darted sud- 
denly from a black cloud, almost right over my head, and divid-? 
ing in the middle of the road, a few yards before me, struck the 
trees on each side, with a shock which made the whole woods 
ring. This was instantaneously followed by such a peal of thun- 
der, as made my horse spring two or three feet high. I rode 
with increased speed, resolved to take shelter in the first house, 
but seeing no immediate appearance of rain I kept on my course 
to Dasher's, 20 miles from Savannah. Having stopped here 
some little time, I observed the storm to spend its force in the 
eastward, and, being satisfied it was over, set out for Savannah; 
and, after an agreeable ride, reached the city at seven o'clock in 
the evening. I travelled, this day, 52 miles ; and my whole jour- 
ney was about 300, 

I remained in Savannah until the 27th of July. The weather 
was very hot and sultry, but the city continued pretty healthy. I 
was surprised to observe the vast emigration to the northward at 
this time, every vessel for New York, Philadelphia, Boston or BaU 
timore, being quite crowded with passengers. I had once an inten- 
tion of spending a few months on the sea islands with a friend, from 
whom I had a very warm invitation ; but, in consequence of letters 
from ISIew York, I was induced to alter my determination, and go 
to that city. 



CHAPTER VIL 

Passage to New^ York. 

Having arranged my business, and fixed upon a plan of cor- 
respondence with my friend in Savannah, I engaged a passage on 
board the brig Sally, captain Ansdell ; passage money 20 dollars, 
and stores about 28. My fellow -passengers were a Mr. M'Gee 
and Mr. Enoe, of Savannah ; Mr. Sayre, of New York ; ^nd a 
Mr. Scott, from the West Indies. 
We went on board, on Sunday morning, the 27th July, at si^ 



64f TRAVELS ON 

o'clock, and at half past six set sail. The breeze was light, but 
fair; and, the tide being in our favour, we glided down the river 
very pleasantly ; passed the lighthouse at 11 o'clock, and at 12 
crossed the bar, and discharged the pilot. New York is distant 
from hence, by calculation, 615 geographical miles, in a direct 
line ; but the projection of the coast at cape Hatteras obliges ves- 
sels to steer considei'ably to the eastward, so that they have to sail 
nearly 800 miles. They generally make sail for the gulf stream 
in going north, that they may have the benefit of the current. 

We were favoured with a southerly wind, and kept a course a 
little to the north ot east, till we reached the longitude of 78", 
when we steered a course nearly parallel to the coast, about north- 
east. Here we were in the middle of the gulf stream, which 
by calculation, carried our vessel 37 miles in 24' hours, which 
would be a current of little more than a mile and a half an hour ; 
but it is generally supposed that the current, at this place, is up- 
wards of two miles. 

We continued to have a favourable breeze, and made a gpod 
nm, without meeting with any circumstance worthy of remark, 
until Saturday, the 2d August, when we experienced a very se- 
vere gale, which almost upset the vessel. The wind, which had 
been hitherto from the south and west, shifted to the south-east, 
and was accompanied by thick foggy weather. We were within 
30 or 40 miles of Sandy Hook, and the wind was fair ; but the 
gale increased, and the weather was too tliick to see a pilot boat ; 
so that the captain judged it expedient to stand out to sea. A gun- 
boat was a little astern, and followed our example. The gale in- 
«reased almost to a hurricane, accompanied by thick rainy weather; 
the captain was carrying as much sail as possible, so as to weather 
Long Island, which, by calculation, was now but 20 miles to lee- 
ward. Being a good deal accustomed to rough weather, I was 
lolhng in an after-birth, looking out at the cabin window, and be- 
holding the effect of the gale on the ocean : when, all of a sudden, 
I found the vessel heel to leeward, and heard a great noise on deck. 
I started up with an intention of going upon deck, but the vessel 
was quite on her beam ends, and I had to .swing myself along by 
the cabin births ; and on reaching the gangway, I found the pas- 
sengers all crowded into it, and in tears. I reached it just in time 
to hear the captain cry " cut the halliards," and immediately the 
eaik wete shivered to pieces, arid the vesiSel righted. But our 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN* 65 

danger was by no means ov(*t ; the vessel had not now the neces- 
sary sail to carry her out to sea ; and, the captain said, if the 
gale continued, we must inevitably be driven ashore on Long Is- 
land. He was much affected, and in tears. He was a pleasant 
little man, and I really felt for him. I had heard somewhere that 
south-east gales on the coast of America^ seldom lasted above 10 
or 12 hours ; and, as this one had now continued upwards of nine 
hours, I endeavoured to console him with the idea, that the chance 
was greatly in our favour. He admitted it was so, but could not 
help being affected while there was any chance against us, and the 
vessel in her present state. While we we^e speaking, I chanced to 
look to the south-west, and observed a small speck of blue sky 
through the turbulent atmosphere. I pointed it out to the captain, 
and 1 never saw a man so sensibly affected with sudden joy. He af- 
firmed the gale was over, and in a few minutes all was still and calm. 
The wind shifted to the north-west blowing a delightful cool breeze, 
and shortly after there was not a cloud to be seen in the horizon. We 
put about the vessel, and stood in for the land ; but the wind was 
now right against us, and we made little progress. However we had 
time to patch up our sails, and made the best of our way towards our 
destined port. The weather continued favourable, and on the 3d of 
August, at daylight, we saw the high lands of Never Sink ; at 1 
o'clock, we saw the light-house, distant 10 or 12 miles; soon af- 
ter which we had a fine view of Long Island, Staten Island, the 
bay, and numerous vessels inward bound. The breeze continued 
light, so that it was 4 o'clock before we received a pilot ; after 
which we came to anchor five or six miles south-east of the light- 
house. This pilot gave us information regarding the death of 
Jolin Peirce, the seaman who was killed by a shot from the Lean- 
der ; and told us that he had been on board sevei'al coasting vessels 
himself which had been fired at by the Cambrian and Leander, on 
the conduct of whose officers he reflected in very bitter terms. 

On the morning of the 4th we set sail, but the breeze died away 
in a short time, and we again came to anchor within half a mile of 
the beach, a little to t^ie south of the light-house. At 11 a small 
breeze sprung up from the south, and we again weighed anchor. 
At half past 12 we passed the light-house, and, the breeze increa?:- 
ing, we continued our course at a good rate, much gratified with 
the prospect round us. Staten liland, rising to a considerable ele- 
vation, and clothed with verdure, was right ahead. Long Island 



56 TRAVELS IN 

was on our right, with a pretty view of the Narrows between them ; 
the high lands of Never Sink, astern, and the high lands of the 
Jerseys, to the westward ; with the great confluence of waters, and 
crowded shipping formed altogether a most beautiful picture : and 
it probably made a greater impression upon me than it would had 
I arrived direct from Europe, — the dull scenery of Georgia and 
South Carolina acting as a foil. 

At half past two we passed the Narrows, the channel between 
Long Island and Staten Island, about three quarters of a mile 
broad ; and immediately after New York, distant about 10 miles, 
with the bay and shipping, opened to our view ; which had a very 
fine effect. At half past 3 we arrived at the quarantine ground, 
which is beautifully situated on a small bay on the east side of Sat- 
ten Island, and having got a pass from the health officer, we set sail 
for New York. I was very much gratified with the view, in our 
passage upward. There are several islands in the bay, and the 
scenery on each side is really beautiful ; the city too is adorned 
with a number of spires, Avhich have a fine effect, and in approach- 
ing it we passed a pretty point, planted with trees, called the Bat- 
tery. But we could not land at the city. By the health laws, all 
cotton, after a certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long 
Island ; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening. From 
thence I passed over to the city ; and immediately waited on Mr< 
Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and an old acquaintance ; 
from whom, and his amiable wife, I received a most friendly wel- 
come, and a kind invitation to spend the summer with them, which 
was cordially accepted. 



CHAPTER Vin. 

New York* 

jS EW YORK is situated on the south-west point of York island, 
at the confluence of Hudson and East rivers, in north latitude 40 ° 
40'. The length of the city on East river is nearly two miles ; and 
it extends along the north river nearly as much. Its average 
breadth is about one mile, and its circumference six. It consists of 
about 15,000 houses, including public buildings and ware-houses; 
and the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000. By the censu;* 



KEW YORK. 57 

of 1800, they amounted to 60,489, but the increase has bceil very 
great since.* The houses are generally built of brick, with slated 
or shingled roofs ; and many of them are handsome. 

The plan of the city is not uniform. In the old part of the town 
some of the streets are crooked, and many of them are too narrow ; 
but all the modern part is built on a good plan ; and some of the 
new streets are uncommonly elegant. Broadway is the finest street 
in the cit}', and from its importance and great beauty it merits a 
particular description. It commences at the Battery, on the south, 
west point of the city, and runs in a north-east direction about two 
miles and a half, where it forms a junction with the Bowery road. 
The breadth of this street, including the side pavements, is about 
80 feet, and it is regular, during its whole lengtli. It is ornament- 
ed wiih rows of poplar trees on each side, and a number of public 
buildings are situated on it, particularly the Custom-house, Trinity 
church, St. Paul's church, the city public buildings, the Mechanics' 
Hall, and the Hospital. The street rises by a gradual ascent from the 
Battery, about half a mile, and is, at its greatest elevation, opposite 
the city buildings. Its course is through the highest part of the island. 
Greenwich-street is next in importance : it rises also at the Battery, 
and, running nearly due north upwards of two miles, connects the 
city with the village of Greenwich. — Pearl-street is one of the most 
important in the city, in point of trade; it rises also near the Bat- 
tery, and runs nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street ; 
from thence it runs to the northward, and falls into Chatham-street, f 
Cherry street is a continuation of Pearl-street, andl runs along the 
East river till it is terminated by a bend of the river. — Bowery- 
lane is upwards of 100 feet wide, rises at Chatham-street, and, con- 
nected with the Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as 
before mentioned. The other most important streets are Wall- 
street, where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, 
Chatham-street, where the theatre is situated. Front-street, Water- 
street, and Broad-street. 

That part of the city which has been recently laid out on East ri- 
ver is constructed on a handsome plan, the streets crossing one ano- 
ther at right angles ; and there are several public squares. Of these 
there are by far too few in the city, and they hardly merit notice. 
The Battery, before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and 

* By the census of 1810, the whole inliabitants on the island amounted to 96,37S. 
t Since IBOC,, Pearl- Street has been extended twyond Chatham-street, to Droadway^. 

8 



58 TRAVELS IN 

commands an elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and shipping; 
but it is quite small, consisting of a few acres only. There is a small 
triangular piece of ground, called the Park, in front of the public 
buildings, which is very ornamental ; and these are all the public 
walks of which New York can boast. Would it not be well, in 
laying out cities, to make a large reserve of public property, while 
land is cheap ? Hyde Park at London, the Green of Glasgow, and 
the Inches of Perth, are instances of its utility. 

The public buildings are numerous. The first in importance is 
the City Hall, fronting the Park ; it is now erecting, of white mar- 
ble, and will, when finished, be the most elegant building in Ame- 
rica, and few in Europe will surpass it. The others are F^ederal 
Hall, Custom- House, College, Coffee-I louse. Mechanics' Hall, 
Theatre, Hospital, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal 
churches, five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two baptist, 
two quaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lutheran, and one 
French Calvinistic church, one seceder, one Scots reformed church, 
one church each for universal ists, congregationalists, Moravians, 
and Africans, and one Jewish synagogue. 

There are five public markets in the city, of which the principal 
is the Fly -market; and these are well supplied with wholesome pro- 
visions, vegetables, fruit and fish ; and the prices are generally rea- 
sonable. A few of them may be quoted. Beef, mutton, and veal, 
9 to 12 cents* per pound; a turkey 75; a goose 62 ; ducks and 
fowls about 25 each ; eggs li per dozen ; butter 22 per lb. ; tea — 
souchong 75, hyson 125 ; coffee 20 per lb. ; sugar 12, refined 20- 
Bread is regulated by flour, which is at present 8 dollars per bar- 
rel. Fish and fruit plenty and cheap. Madeira wine 2i dollars 
per gallon; claret 3 dollars per dozen ; brandy, rum, and gin, 1| 
dollars per gallon. 

There are a number of schools in the city, and the college, in 
which two of the professors are Scotsmen, is reckoned a very excel- 
lent seminary of education. To the north of the city, near Green- 
wich, stands the state-prison, modelled upon the plan of that of 
Philadelphia ; and it is said to be one of the most benevolent insti- 
tutions ever established in any country. 

The city is well situated for trade. Having a spacious harbour, 
and easy access to the ocean at all seasons of the year, and being 
in a central situation in the United States, it must necessarily al- 

* A dollar exchanges at 4s. Gd. sterling; and & cent is a fraction more than a halfpenny. 



NEW YORK. ;59 

ways command a large share of the foreign trade of the country ; 
and, having the command of Hudson's River, navigable with its 
branches upwards of 200 miles, and the East River, with Long Is- 
land Sound, it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, of 
Vermont, of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of Massachusetts* 
besides the whole of the fertile interior country, which, on the other 
hand, furnishes every kind of produce and provisions by an easy 
water carriage, and at a reasonable rate. 

The exports from New York amounted, in 1S05, to 23,582,252 
dollars, of which 15,4'84,883 dollars was foreign produce. The 
imports probably amount to upwards of 25,000,000 ; but it is to be 
observed that New York exports and imports a great portion of the 
commodities of other states. 

The situation of New York I should reckon very healthy ; yet it 
is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness ; which circumstance, 
1 am rather inclined to think, arises from a defect in, the police, 
which does not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the 
wealth and splendour of this fine city. The buildings are, in many 
places, too crowded : many of the wharves are ill constructed, and 
some of the docks project into the city, especially from the East ri- 
ver, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants. The common sew- 
ers are incomplete, and there is no supply of fresh water to sweeten 
and purify the streets ; but, beyond all, they have adopted the sys- 
tem of sinking necessaries, which accumulates such a collection of 
latent filth, that the steams of it are sometimes perceptible at two 
miles distance. 

I soon got well acquainted with New York, and was much pleas- 
ed with the affability and polite deportment of the inhabitants. 
The gentlemen whom I had occasion to see were mostly merchants, 
who are distinguished as men of business ; and generally so well 
acquainted with the nature of their own trade, that they can tell 
the value of a piece of goods almost as correctly as a Manchester or 
Glasgow manufacturer. The female society are polished and well 
bred; they have not, generally speaking, that florid glow of health 
for which 1;he Scottish ladies are distinguished ; but they are, I 
think, fully as handsome in their persons and features. 

I heard but little pohtics among those with whom I associated j 
but I observed a good deal in the newspapers, and two of them 
were very coarse and scurrilous. They were on different sides of 
the political question, of course, and substituted abusive language 



60 TRAVELS IN 

and personal declamation for reasoning. When a person looks in- 
to a newspaper, it is to seethe news of the day, of which there is ge- 
nerally a summary in the leading paragraph ; but, contrary to every 
thing I had ever seen before, one of these papers began by abusing 
a cotemporary, and the other returned the compliment, with inte- 
rest. I notice this circumstance because it made a forcible impres- 
sion upon me, and because similar circumstances are olten resorted 
%o in Britain, to represent the free press in Ameripa as in the last 
stage of depravity. A free press is a great national blessing ; but, 
like the best medicines, it becomes a most deadly poison by abusing 
it An editor of a public paper assumes a tnost important station 
in society ; his sentiments spread far, and have a great influence up- 
on the public mind; he is responsible for every word he publishes; 
and it is not enough that he adhere to truth himself; he is bound 
to take care that none other publish falsehood through the medium 
of hi& paper : a regard to the public good also requires that 
truth should be promulgated in decent language ; and nothing- 
should be introduced into a public paper, with which the public 
have nothing to do. Whenever the personal feelings of the editor 
have a tendency to violate this rule, they should be immolated on 
the altar of public decorum. 

Party politics is here> as well as in Britain, a noisy subject ; and 
the question between the parties not being well defineil, it is difficult 
to understand it. From the best account of it which I could pro- 
cure, the schism seems to have taken place about the time of the a- 
doption of the federal constitution, which gave rise to very anmiatr 
ed discussions, in which those who were in favour of it were styled 
Jedei'cdisis, and those opposed to it antifederalists. It now receives 
the approbation of the whole community ; but the distinction of 
parties continues, under the names o^fedei-alists and democrats. They 
equally lay claim to the title of repuhlicatis, and are often styled y^- 
deial republicans and democratic repid)licans. It was in vain that I 
looked for a satisfactory account of the matter in the New York pa- 
pers which I had an opportunity of seeing : but I observed in one 
of them that the federalists were styled the disciples of Washington, 
s>nd the democrats the supporters of Jefferson. I thought I would 
discover the difference in the declared opinions of these two emi- 
nent characters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's 
Farewel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech ; but the 
sentiments inculcated in these two papers appeared to me tob© pre- 



NEW YORK. fil 

cisely the same. The one recognizes popular government, and re- 
commends union, obedience to the laws, religion and morality, and 
to keep party spirit within bounds ; the other declares that the will 
of the majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land; and re- 
commends harmony and affection, with the free exercise of reason, 
of religion and of the press. Professing to act under these senti- 
ments, it is somewhat singular that there should be a difference at 
all ; but, to use the words of one of the characters above alluded to, 
*' every difference of opinion is not a difference of principle," and 
the political question may be considered as essentially different from 
what it is in Britain. In Britain the question between "ischig and 
tory is whether the controuling power shall be vested in the j'^cople 
or in the crown. In America it is whether it shall be vested in this 
or that set of men. 

Having merely glanced at this subject, I shall dismiss it with 
a fervent wish for the total extinction of all party spirit, the 
more to be desired in the United States, as party distinctions are 
apt to divert the public attention from objects of real practical 
utility, while the difference in principle among good men is so 
small, that they should be " all republicans, all federalists." 

On the 20th of August, I was introduced to that celebrated 
character, Thomas Paine. He was confined in New York by a 
hurt in his leg, and hved in the house of a Mrs. Palmer, widow 
of the late deistical niinister in that city. The gentleman who 
introduced me was well acquainted with Mr. Paine, and I was 
politely received as his friend. Paine was sitting in a small a- 
partment, with a number of newspapers before him ; and he gave 
one of them to my friend to read some paragraphs relative to the 
negociations for peace between Britain and France. In the mean 
time, I cast my eyes across the table, and, from some MSS. 
which lay on it, judged he was writing on the subject of religion. 
The title of one of the pieces was singular, namely, " It is I, 
Tiiomas Paine, that speaketh." I could only see a word here and 
there of what followed ; but, by the scope of it, I presumed that 
it was some sort of reUgious creed. I was afterwards mformed 
that it really was so, and that he intended it should be published 
after his death. When my friend had finished reading the news- 
papers, they entered into conversation, in which Paine declared 
decidedly, that there would be no peace. " The war," he ob- 
served, « must inevitably go on till the government of England 



^ TRAVELS IN 

fell ; for it was radically and systematically wrong, and altogether 
incompatible with the present state of society." I reminded him, 
that there was now a whig administration in Britain, who would 
institute a reform of abuses, cause the constitution to be acted on 
in its purity, and probably repair all the mischief that had been 
done by the tory administrations. He shook his head, and said 
that he knew the English government well, and was convinced 
that no man, or set of men, would ever be able to reform it J 
the system was wrong, and it never would be set right without a 
revolution, which was as certain as fate, and at no great distance 
in time. 

Finding we diflfered on this point, I changed the subject, and 
took notice of a little essay which he had written on the yellow 
fever, which had been published in the newspapers, and attracted 
considerable attention in the southern states. He seemed to be 
pleased with this, and, in the course of conversation on the sub- 
ject, discovered a good deal of that literary vanity of which he 
has been accused ; but it must be acknowledged, that this little 
piece contains much valuable information. The arguments are 
ingenious — to me, indeed, quite convincing ; and I have conversed 
•with some of Mi\ Paine's most strenuous political opponents, who 
have viewed them in the same light. 

Paine is a slender man, rather tall, and has an uncommonly 
penetrating eye. His face is subject to a scorbutic eruption, 
which circumstance has probably contributed to propagate the 
report, that he is habitually intemperate ; but I was informed by 
those who knew him weW, that it is not correct. When he 
meets with a person of his own way of thinking, he will frequent? 
ly indulge himself to a late hour over a glass of toddy ; but sel- 
dom carries it to excess. His income is but small ; but he is in 
independent circumstances, having a tract of land, for which he 
could obtain ten thousand dollars. He is pleasant in conversa- 
tion, and speaks very much in the style he writes, quite clear 
and perspicuous. 

The following table will afford an idea of the summer wea- 
ther at New York. 



August 4. Clear, 


temperate. 


Aug. 8. Clear, do. 


5. Rain, 


do. 


9. Do. temperate 


6. Clear, 


warm. 


10. Cloudy, do. 


7. Doi 


do. 


n. Clear, do. 



Auff. 







NEW 


YORK. 




G3 


12. 


Cloudy, 


do. 


Aug. 


20. 


Clear, pleasant. 


13. 


Do. 


do. 




21. 


Do. warm. 


14. 


Do. 


do. 




22. 


Cloudy, sultr}^ 


15. 


Showers, 


do. 




23. 


Rain, thunder, warm. 


16. 


Rain, 


sultry*. 




24-. 


Rain, stormy, cold. 


17. 


Cloudy, 


do.' 




25. 


Clear, warm. 


18. 


Cleai-, 


pleasant. 




26. 


Do. do. 


19. 


Do. 


do. 









CHAPTER IX. 

Long Island Sound., — Netsopart^ — Providence. 

Having judged it expedient to take a journey into the New 
England states, I engaged a passage on board a Providence 
packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the afternoon of the 
26th of August. Our company consisted of a gentleman and 
three ladies from New York, two ladies and two children from 
Newport, a baptist preacher, a printer, and a major. I soon found 
out that the major would be an excellent travelling companion, 
and resolved to humour him accordingly. He was very frank 
and familiar, and we soon became acquainted ; and on exchang- 
ing civilities, we found we would have occasion to be together 
for some time, which we resolved to improve to the best advantage; 
and we extracted not a little amusement from our adventures, as 
will be seen anon. 

We proceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze, and 
had a delightful view of the banks on each side, which are well 
wooded, and adorned with many elegant villas, belonging chiefly 
to the merchants of New York. Six miles above New York, we 
passed Hell Gate, a very singular passage, about 300 or 400 yards 
in breadth, having a ledge of sunken rocks across it in an angu- 
lar direction, which occasions many whirlpools and cross currents 
in the water. These, at certain jieriods of the tide, make u dread- 
ful noise, and render a passage impracticable; but at other times 
the water is smooth, and a passage easy. 

Soon after passing Hell Gate, we entered Long Island sound, 
and had a fine view. Our company seemed social, and disposed 

• It was only a part of those days aiarked sultry, that I felt disngrceably irartn. 



64r traVei^ in 

to be happy^ The weather was agreeably warm, and we enjoyed 
ourselves on deck, where we had a number of fine songs, in which 
a Newport young lady excelled. Towards evening the breeze 
died away, when we were about 30 miles from New York. 

August 27. Early this morning we took a fair wind, which 
carried us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour. The 
sound widens gradually to the middle, where it is about 25 miles 
broad ; but the day being clear, we had a fine view on both 
sides of it. On the Connecticut side, the coast is lined with ele- 
gant towns, adorned with spires, and the view is very pleasing. 
Our ladies continued^ to charm us with their songs, and the major 
and I were much diverted by a singular courtship, in wluch the 
chief agent was a book. 

We observed, that our printer paid a good deal of attention to 
the Newport young lady, the sweet singer. Taking advantage of 
her taste for poetry and music, he pi'oduced his book, and read a 
sentimental effusion to the lady ; and while she was expressing her 
approbation, he let his hand touch hers, as if by accident. They 
turned over to another piece, and the lady read on, till she came 
to a passage with which she seemed to be quite delighted. " Is'nt 
that beautiful ?" said the gentleman, laying his hand gently upon 
hers. " Beautiful, indeed," exclaimed the lad)'. " I'll show you 
something," said he, " still more forcible upon the same subject : 
I beer you'll be seated, ma'am." The lady was seated. He deliver- 
ed the book with one hand, and, laying hold of hers with the 
other, sat down beside her. — She read on. " This is really beau- 
tiful," said she. " Most beautiful, indeed," said he, and seized 
this opportunity to put one hand gently round her waist, while he 
helped her to hold the book with the other. Thus they went on from 
piece to piece, and from sentiment to sentiment, to the great vex- 
ation of the major, who was quite chagrined that the printer 
should engross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the com- 
pany of her agreeable songs and conversation. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached the head of 
the sound ; where, being near the Connecticut side, we had a fine 
view of New London, appropriately situated on a river called the. 
Thames. Nearly opposite to New London, we passed between two 
very small islands, within a few yards of each other, and entered 
a curious passage, called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. 
There is a chain of islands, which runs across this outlet in an an- 



LONG ISLAND SOUND. .65 

gular direction, and they consequently confine the water into 
narrow channels, so that the tide, at ebbing and flowing, runs with 
great violence. We passed it with a light breeze, and the current 
against us, and consequently we made but little progress ; but we 
got out of it, and all danger, before dark, and proceeded with a 
light breeze towards Newport, now about 30 miles distant. On 
our arrival at the entrance of Narraganset bay, I observed a great 
quantity of shipping, principally small craft, and was anxious to see 
this inlet, being esteemed one of the best in America ; but it v.-as 
now 1 1 o'clock, and too dark to make observations, so I retired to 
bed ; and in the morning, found the vessel at the wharf in Newport. 

Newport is situated on the south-west point of Rhode Island, 
in latitude 41° 29'. It extends about a mile from north to south, 
along Narraganset bay, and is about one third of a mile in 
breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the water, by a considerable 
ascent. The streets cross one another at right angles, and are all 
well paved. The number of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, 
was 6739, and the number of houses is about 1100, chiefly built 
of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a State- 
House, Academy, Public Libraiy, four baptist churches, two for 
congrcgationalists, and one each for episcopalians, quakers, Mo- 
ravians, and Jews. 

The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity of the 
climate is proverbial, in consequence of v\hich it becomes a great 
resort for strangers, particularly from the southern states, during 
the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent supply of 
provisions in its market, particularly of fish, of which there is 
said to be 50 or 60 different kinds. The packets which ply be- 
tween this place and New^ York, and Providence, are of great 
service to the city, and to the public. They are generally under 
excellent regulations, and afford better accommodations and travel- 
ling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in most places of the 
world. The distance from hence to New York is about 200 miles, 
which we sailed in little more than 30 hours ; and the fare, in- 
cluding bed and provisions, was only nine dollars. From hence to 
Providence, 30 miles, it is one dollar. 

Neport is a favourable situation for commerce, and has one of 
the most safe and commodious harbours in the world. On the op- 
posite side of the harbour is Goat Island, on which there is a fort 
and military station. The trade of Newport is principally in ship- 

9 



6^ TRAVELS IN 

ping ; and there !s a manufactory of cotton, »nd one of duck^ 
both of which are said to be in a thriving state. 

I took a walk round the town with the major, wlio was well ac- 
quainted with it; and from the heights above it we had some fine 
views. After breakfast, we went on board the packet for Provi- 
dence. 

At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind being 
right ahead, we made little progress. The day however was fine, 
and the company agreeable ; and, being in no particular hurry, 
we enjoyed ourselves very much, sailing up this delightful bay. We 
had all our former company, except one of the ladies of New- 
port and her children. The other had also intended to stop at 
Newport ; but our printer had exerted his eloquence so effectually 
as to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with whom 
she was to live during commencement. Having heard this term fre- 
quently made use of, I inquired into the meaiving of it ; and wai 
informed that it is a public day, held at college, previous to the 
vacation, on which the students deliver their orations and receive 
their degrees ; and it concludes with a ball, to which all the young 
ladies, for many miles round, are invited. 

After proceeding a few miles, I found we had a state-room fiill 
of ladies, in addition to our former company. One of them came 
out to take the air. She was a tall elegant girl, about 1 6 years of 
age, with a complexion and features uncommonly beautiful. The ma- 
jor and I guessed tl>at slie would immediately attract our printer'* 
notice. We guessed right, for while we were yet speaking, we saw 
him pull out his book, and make up to her. She was standing 
beside the object of his first regard, whom he now turned hi&, 
back upon ; and, under pretence of showing the fine sentimental 
pieces in the book, went through the whole ceremony of touching 
hands, and so forth. Our major was astonished, and wondered 
what could be about the man that he charmed the ladies so ; for he 
was by no means handsome. One of our company remarked tiiat 
there was an herb in natiu'e, called valerian, which had the re- 
markable quality of charming the feline tribe; and perhaps there 
might be some herb which produced a similar effect upon young 
women, and that tlie printer must be in possession of it ; for he 
could account for his remarkable success in no other way. The 
major swore (he was n sad swearer) that this must be the true so- 
lution, and wondered if any such lierbs were to be found in Geor- 



RHODE ISLAND. 67 

gia, as he would purchase them at any expense. But it appeared 
that this theory could not be altogedier correct, for a small quan- 
tity of valerian will charm as many cats as a room will hold, where- 
as it appeared the printer could only charm one young lady at a 
time. The Newport lady,, perceiving his attention to the stranger, 
withdrew from him, and w*e enjoyed part of her agreeable conver- 
sation, during the remainder of the passage. He was but short- 
sighted in the exchange; for this lady, though not so beautiful as 
the other, had a great deal more animation, which rendered her 
more interesting ; and she was possessed of a great deal of good 
sense. We had a number of fine songs and stories, and the day 
passed away most agreeably. 

Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, Is 33 miles in length, 
from south to north, and, towards Newport, about 12 miles 
in breadth, including the islands which it embosoms, of which 
the principal are, Rhode Island, Canonicut, Prudence, Patience, 
Hope, Dyer's, and Hog Island. It receives the waters of Pro- 
vidence, Taunton., and Patuxet rivers ; and contains five harbours, 
besides those of Newport and Providence. Its banks are clad 
with settlements, and there are a number of pretty little towns, 
the view of which, from the water, has a fine effect. 

At 6 o'clock we reached Providence, where we saw a good deal 
of shipping, and I was surprised to find a vessel there of upwards 
of 900 tons burden. I was informed that she was in the East India 
trade, of which there is a considerable share at this port, and that 
there would be a sale of India goods next day. 

The major, who had often travelled this way, conducted me to a 
Jboarding-house, where having engaged lodgings, we went out to 
take a view of the town, with which he was well acquainted. The 
ground rises to a considerable elevation above the town, from 
whence we had a fine view ; and we returned to our lodgings high- 
ly pleased with the excursions of this day. 

Providence is beautifully situated on the head of Narraganset 
bay, and is divided into two parts by the Providence river, over 
which there is a good bridge, with a draw in it, to allow vessels to 
pass. The west side of the town is low, but the east side rises, by 
a rapid ascent, to a considerable elevation. The number of in- 
habitants, in 1800, was 76 1 4', and they are rapidly increasing.* 
The public buildings are, a court-house, market-house, a public 

* By tbe census «f 1810, thcrjr are ie,07L 



68 TRAVELS IN 

school-house, a baptist meeting-house, a quaker meeting-house, 
and three congregational churches. There is an extensive college 
situated on the hill, and commanding a fine view of the town, bay, 
shipping and country for many miles round. The building is of 
brick, with a slated roof, 150 feet long, 46 wide, and four stories 
high; and contains lodgings for upwards of 100 students. It has a 
valuable i)hilos()phical apparatus, and a library containing upwards 
of 3000 volumes. 

Providence has a pretty extensive shipping trade, and several 
manufactories are establiscd in the town and neighbourhood, 
which iare said to be in a thriving state. 

Being now about to leave this little interesting state, I shall de- 
vote q, chapter exclusively to a geographical description of it, 
Avhich plan I intend to follow in the course of my travels. For 
the necessary information on this branch, as well as the description 
of cities, towns, and rivers, I must be mdebted, in a great measure, 
to the researches of those who have gone before me ; but I shall 
arrange the subject on a new plan,which may admit of considerable 
variety, and have the beneficial effect of maturing my own judg- 
ment on American geography. 

To American manners and education I shall pay a little extra 
attention, because I begin to find tiiat I have been labouring 
under considerable prejudices concerning them. It is very com- 
mon for the natives of Britain to set up their own country as the 
model of all perfection, and to doubt the existence of equal ad- 
vantages any where else ; and to no country has that doubt been 
more extended than to the United States of America. It is real- 
ly surprising to see, that notwithstanding the great intercourse 
between the two countries, there should be so much ignorance, or 
rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding America ; and it is to 
this circumstance that I attribute my own prejudices ; for as to what 
are called natural prejudices, I disclaim them. I have no wish to 
see things otherwise than as ihey arc ; and I am very glad to observe 
that this people have a polish of manners, and speak a style of 
language, which must be the result of education, at least equal to 
•what exists in Britain. And this does not appear to be confined 
to the sea-port towns : the country, in this quarter, is thickly 
settled with a civilized, industrious people. 



KHODE ISLAND. 69 

CHAPTER X. 

Rhode Island. 

Rhode island is situated between 41° 22' and 42® north 
latitude, and 5° and 5° 50' east longitude*, being 45 miles in 
length, and 43 in breadth, and contains 1548 square miles, or 
990,720 acres. 

The face of the country is agreeably uneven, some places be- 
ing hilly, but not mountainous. Narraganset, already mentioned, 
is the principal bay. The rivers all flow into this bay, and have 
been already noticed. 

Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds with 
limestone and marble. Some copper ore and load-stone have al- 
so been found ; and there are several mineral springs, but of no 
great importance. 

The soil is various, and a great part of it good, though better 
adapted for grazing than for grain. 

The climate is salubrious and healthy; but the winters are 
sometimes long and severe, commencing in November, and ending 
in March or April. There is a very short spring, but the sum- 
mer and autumn are delightful. Volney remarks on this subject, 
" Were I obliged to select the most favourable spot in America 
as the place of my abode, my choice would fall upon the southern 
point of Rhode Island." 

The first settlement was commenced in the year 1636, by Roger 
Williams, a banished clergyman from Massachussets ; and the 
state was chiefly peopled by emigrants from that country. In 1663, 
a charter was obtained from Charles II, which is the basis of 
the present constitution. The country suffered greatly during the 
revolutionary war ; but it is now in a thriving state, increasing 
in population and wealth. It sends two senators and two repre- 
sentatives to congressf. 

The state is divided into five counties and thirty townships, and 

* I have adopted the American mode of making Washington the first meridian. 
It accords best with the map, and is calculated to give a better idea of the relative si- 
tuation of the different places in the country than the meridian of London. 

f Representatives are sent to congress according to the population, one for every 
33,000, Each state sends two senators. 



70 TRAVELS IN 

the inhabitants amount to 69,122*, including 380 slaves; being 
about 45 to the square mile. 

The country is well improved, abounding with towns, villages, 
and farm-houses. The chief towns are Providence and Newport, 
already mentioned. The others are, South Kingston., situated on 
the west side of Narraganset Bay, nearly opposite Newport, and 
contains 3000 inhabitants. Bristol is pleasanlly situated on the 
bay, about half way between Providence and Newport, and con- 
tains 1678 inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade. Warren 
IS a flourishing little town, containing about 1600 inhabitants. It 
is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren River, and car- 
ries on a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little Comptony East 
Gree7ixvich, and Compton^ are also growing towns. The state is 
supplied with good roads and bridges, some of which have been 
constructed on an ingenious plan, and at great expense. No 
canals have yet been made, but several are projected. 

The farms are generally well cultivated, and produce Indian 
corn, rye, barley, oats, wheat, (though not enough for home consump- 
tion,) fruits in great abundance, and culinary vegetables. Butter, 
cheese, and cyder, are made in great quantities, and of a superior 
quality, 

The manufactures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet 
iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron work for shipping, sail- 
cloth, paper, rum, &c. Tlxe cotton manufacture is extending, 
and I was informed that some of those engaged in it were doing 
well ; but it is yet in its infancy, and, being subject to a compe- 
tition with the organized manufactures of Britain, it must be at- 
tended with a considerable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps 
pome risk. 

This state is very favourably situated for commerce, of which 
it has a large share. The exports are grain, flaxseed, lumber, 
horses, cattle, beefj pork, fish, poultry, onions, butter, cheese, 
spirits,\ and cotton and linen goods. The value of exports is Or 
bout 1,000,000 dollars annually. The imports are European and 
India manufactures. West India produce, and logwood. 

The inhabitants of the country are generally proprietors of 
the farms they cultivate, and, having no landlord to make their 
boo to, nor rent to pay, they must be independent. The inhabi- 

• The number of inhabitants is by the census of ISOO, unless where otherwise 
expressed. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 71 

tants of the towns are merchants, manufacturers, mechanics, sea- 
men, and fisherm«i. The lands are not entailed, and hence 
there is no aristocracy; but independence is easily attained by 
labour. There is no distinction made on account of religious 
opiifions; but every man worships God in any way his conscience 
dictates, without interfering with his civil rights. There are seve- 
ral benevolent and useful societies in the state, among which may 
be noticed one " for the abolition of the slave-trade, and for the 
improvement of the African race." The state of education is said 
to be considerably behind that of the other New England states 
but is improving. The chief seminary is the college at Provi- 
dence, already mentioned ; and there is an academy at Newport, 
under good regulations, besides various seminaries throughout 
the state. 

The state legislature consists of a governor, deputy governor, 
ten senators, and a representative from each township. They 
are chosen by the pepole twice every year, and they hold two 
sessions annually. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Providence, — Dedham, — Boston. 

X HERE is a rule in travelling this road, that if, on the arrival of 
the packet, there are three passengers going on to Boston, the stage 
is bound to go with them at any hour. There were four of us who 
agreed to go at 5 o'clock in the morning, and we constituted the 
major master of the ceremonies, to make the necessary arrange- 
ment with the landlord. We accordingly rose very early to take our 
places ; but, lo ! after waiting a full half hour, there was no stage 
to be seen, and the major began to suspect the landlord of insince- 
rity. By-and-by he lost all patience, and began to swear most bit- 
terly ; he went in search of the landlord, but there was no landlord 
to be se«i ; nor, mdeed, any of the domestics. However, it was 
impossible that they could be long proof against the eflfect of the 
major's lungs, for he bellowed forth the most dreadful oaths and 
imprecations that I ever heard, and soon alarmed the servants? 
but they could not satisfy the major, who 

" Roar'd a kon-id murder shout^ 
In drendfu' desperation." 



72 TRAVELS Iti 

fof the landlord, who at last made his appearance ; and the major', 
with a thundering menace, demanded where the stage was. He 
rubbed his eyes, and was going to make a reply, but he had not 
time ; for the major held forth fully half an hour in a strain of elo- 
quence peculir to gentlemen of the sea or the sword, and which 
could hardly find a parallel in the curses wherewithal Dr. Slop 
cursed Obadiah, on the day in v/hich he tied the knots on his instru- 
ment-bag. At last the storm abated a little, and the landlord got 
leave to speak ; but he only made matters worse, for he blundered 
out that the stage would not go before eight o'clock. The land- 
lord had, in truth, attempted to jockei) us. An additional compa- 
ny was to go at eight o'clock ; and he and the stage owner, between 
whom there was a collusion, thought that, notwithstanding the a- 
greement with us, the stage could easily accommodate both ; and 
a few hours, in point of time, was immaterial. But, oh! for the 
pencil of a Hogarth, to delineate the features of the major when this 
fact came out. Mercy on us ! how he did fume and rage, and stamp 
and curse ! At last he made a spring toward the landlord, and, 
shaking his cane over his head, swore if he did not bring the stage 
immediately, he would have satisfaction out of his bones. The 
landlord got alarmed, and ran as if the devil had been in pursuit of 
him, and the major, having spent his rage, stood mute. The land- 
lord had not been long gone before a gentleman came up to the 
house and asked if we were going to Boston, and, on being answer- 
ed in the affirmative, he told us that he had a new stage, which he 
would start instantly, provided there were three passengers. This was 
most delightful news for the major, who told him we would go, pro- 
vided the stage was brought in ten minutes, so as to disappoint the 
landlord. An elegant new stage, with good horses, drew up before 
the door in a few minutes, and, having paid a very moderate bill 
to the landlady, who, the major observed, was the better man of the 
iwOf we got into the carriage. While we were seating ourselves, 
up came the landlord with the other stage, and the major detained 
us a few minutes to get a parting word with him. " Now, you ras- 
cal," says he, " you thought to play a Yankee trick upon me ; but 
this is diamond cut diamond for you !" The landlord began to 
enter a complaint against us for leaving the stage ; but he was stop- 
ped short by the major, who exclaimed, " Oh ! you rascal, I de- 
light in disappointing you : I would not for a thousand — ay, not 
for ten thousand dollars have wanted this satisfaction. I know money 



MASSACHUSETTS. 73 

will procure any thing ; and I have got more than ever you 
saw, you vagabond." So saying, he ordered the driver to proceed. 
We travelled but slowly, owing to the road being very bad. We 
learned that the people of Ma&sachusetts had offered to extend the 
turnpike to Providence, but the people of this state would not agree 
to it ; and thus the road remained almost impassable. The morn- 
ing was hazy, so that we could see but little of the country ; but it 
appeared to be indifferently cidtivated. We saw great quantities 
of fruit by the way side ; and several waggons, loaded with apples, 
were on their way to Providence, 

The salutation which the major gave the landlord occasioned a 
good deal of merriment ; and one of our company observed that he 
could put him upon a plan of swearing by rule, by which means he 
could save him a great deal of trouble, and wear and tear of con- 
science, in coining oaths. He accordingly produced the anathema 
of Ernulphus, recorded in the Life and Opinions of Tristram Shan- 
dy, which he read aloud, to the great astonishment of the major, 
and diversion of the company. 

About four miles from Providence, we passed Patucket river, 
and entered into the state of Massachusetts. Here there are very 
handsome falls, and a little town called Patucket, in which there 
is a thriving manufactory of cotton yarn and goods. The spin- 
ning works are said to be on the most approved principle, and 
there are several looms going by machineiy. 

We were informed that the cotton trade had been introduced 
here by a gentleman from England, a pupil of Arkwright, who 
had been very successful; that other people were following his 
example, and that this branch was likely to increase to a great 
extent in this district. I doubted the power of the people here 
to become competitors with the manufacturers of England ; but 
I learned that they confine themselves pretty much to coarse 
goods, and articles of the first necessity ; and -on turning the 
whole information, relative to the subject, in my mind, I found 
that they had such a number of circumstances in their favour, as 
were sufficient to balance, if not to overcome, the disadvantages. 
The principal disadvantage is the high wages which must be i)aid 
to the workmen ; and it is supposed that the people have a prc- 
deliction for agriculture, v. hich has a tendency to prevent them 
from setthng at sedentary employments. This last circumstance 
is the popular opinion in Britain, and I was impressed m ith its 

10 



74 TRAVELS IN 

reality myself; but after looking round me in this country, I ra- 
ther think that it is more specious than solid ; for I find there is 
no want of masons, carpenters, smiths, tanners, shoemakers, hat- 
ters, taylors, and other mechanics, none of which are agricultural 
employments. All these and other branches are organized an4 
practised with persevering industry, because the profits resulting 
from tliem are equal to those resulting from agriculture: and 
other branches will be subject to the same rule. In every com- 
munity there are a great number of the members who. are better 
adapted for labour in the house than in the field ; and the force 
of this remark is peculiarly applicable to the cotton trade, in 
which a large portion of the labour is performed by machinery, 
and the remainder principally by women and children. But all 
labour is better paid for in America than in Britain. The pro*, 
portion is probably two to one; and if the cotton trade will 
afford this advance to the labourers, it will bear a competition with 
similar manufacturers of Britain, and prosper — not else. 

The most striking circumstance in favour of the cotton manu- 
factures is the cheapness of the raw material, which is the pro- 
duce of the United States. They manufacture here principally 
upland cotton, and the price, including carriage to this place, 
is about 20 cents per pound*; being about 12 cents lower 
than they can possibly have it in Britain. The next circumstance 
is the heavy charges to which British manufactured goods are 
subject before they come into the American market. These may 
be reckoned at least equal to 45 per cent. : namely, carriage, in- 
surance, and shipping charges, 5 per cent; American duties, 16^ 
per cent.; importer's profit, 10 per cent; American merchant's 
profit and contingencies, 14| p^r cent. 

Now, suppose lOOlbs of cotton to be manufactured into clotIi> 
of a fabric that will sell at about one shilling sterling in Britain, 
the number of yards will be about 300 ; and by producing this 
in the American market, subject to these different charges, it will 
afford a data whereby we may calculate the price that can be af- 
forded to the manufacturer in America ; and from thence we may 
determine the probable increase of the cotton manufacture. It i» 
to be observed that the demand for cotton goods in America is 
immense, and there is no material competition, except with Brit- 
ish manufacturers. 

• Itis now (1812) only 12 or 13 cents. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 75 

lOOlbs of cotton purchased in the southern «tat«s 

of America, at 18 cts. is in sterling . jB 4i I Q 

Shipping charges, freight, and merchant's profit, 

3d. per pound 15 

British duty 16 8 



Nearly 16d. per pound j6 6 12 8 



SOO yards of cloth at Is. per yard, is jB15 

Leaving for the various branches of manufacture j6 8 7 4 

This cloth sent to America, costs in Britain £15 

Charges before enumerated, 45 per cent. £ 6 15 



£21 15 



Suppose the same fabric manufactured in America. 
The cotton co^ts, in the southern states, at 18 

cents per pound dol. 18 

Carriage and charges, at 2 cents per pound 2 



Price of raw material dol. 20 



Value of similar cloth imported from Britain 
sen 15, is 96 57 

Leaving for the various branches of manufacture dol, 76 57 

Or sterling £16 4 7 

Being nearly double the price paid to the British manufacturer. 

It will be observed too, by this calculation, that the cotton is 
taken at its extreme height, and for every cent that it falls, the 
proportional advantage to the American manufacturer is increas- 
ed; because a great part of the difference consists in duties and 
charges, which are not materially affected by the fall. 

It is my opinion, upon the whole, that the cotton manufacture 
vrill increase in America ; and that it holds out a very good in- 
ducement for men of capital to embark in it. 

We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an ex- 
cellent turnpike road, but being recently cut through a new coun- 
try, we had no great variety of scenery. The face of the country 
Fas agreeably uneven, but the land radier poor and stony. 



76 TRAVELS IN 

Twelve miles from Providence wc stopped at the house of a 
colonel Hatch, the proprietor of the stage, who was along with 
us. The house is new and commodious, and we got an excellent 
breakfast, charge 50 cents. 

From thence we travelled 22 miles to Dedham. The countiy, 
from the reason already stated, is but thinly settled by the road- 
side. The face of the country is agreeably uneven, and we had 
many fine distant views. The road-side abounds with fruit, of 
wliich the traveller may gather as much as he pleases. Towaids 
Dedham the country improves, and the inhabitants appeared 
healthy, and in comfortable circumstances. 

Dedham is a handsome little village, eleven miles from Boston, 
consisting of between 3 and iOO houses, and containing about 
1500 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and 
painted white. The public buildings are a courl-house, three 
congregational churches, and an episcopal church. There are 
several grist and saw-mills in the neighbourhood ; and the inhabi- 
tants carry on a considerable manufacture ©f shoes and wire-work. 

From thence to Boston, the road goes through a beautiful 
country, abounding with villas and well-cultivated farms, and at 
a distance to the eastward are high lands approaching nearly to 
mountains. AVherever I turned my eyes, I was delighted with 
the view ; and being, like the vicar of Wakefield, " an admirer 
of happy faces," 1 was amply gratified by the appearance of the 
inhabitants, who were cleanly, industrious, and contented. The 
female part of the community, in particular, appeared to great 
advantage, having a glow of health, an air of cheerfulness, and a 
cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed. 

The country continued to improve as we proceeded towards 
Boston, in the immediate neighbourhood of which the buildings 
and pleasure-grounds are imcommonly elegant. We entered the 
town by the curious passage called the Neck, and drove up to the 
house of a Mr, Chappotin, in SumiDcr-street, which we reached 
just in time for dinner. On entering the public room, I found about 
twenty gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside an 
elderly gentleman, in a strange dress, with a long beard, who I after- 
wards learned was the Tunisian ambassador. After dinner, I took 
a walk round the town with the major, who was well acquainted 
with it ; called upon my fellow-passenger in the Warrington, Mr. 
Ballard, who was glad to see me; and spent the evening at the 
boarding-house, much pleased with the excursions of the day. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 77 

CHAPTER XII. 

Boston, — Salem. 

B OSTON is built on a peninsula, at the head of Massachusetts 
Bay, in north latitude 42° 23'. It is at one place two miles long, 
but the broadest part is not quite half a mile. A great part of 
the town lies low along the bay ; but the ground rises to a con- 
siderable elevation in the middle, where the State-House is built, 
which gives it a very handsome appearance at a distance. The 
town partakes of the nature of the old towns in England, and is 
irregularly built, many of the streets being crooked and narrow ; 
but the more modern part is regular, and the streets broad and 
well paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys amount to above 150; 
and there are five public squares ; but none of them are of great 
extent, except the Mall, which is a very elegant piece of public 
ground in front of the State-House. 

The number of dwelling-houses is above 3500, and, by the 
census of 1800, the inhabitants were 24,937; from the increase 
that has since taken place, it is presumed that the number is now 
upwards of 30,000.* The gi'eater part of the houses are built of 
brick, and many of them are spacious and elegant. 

The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House, Jail, 
Concert-Hall, Faneuil-Hall, Alms-Hou e, Work- House, and 
Bridewell ; the Museum, Library, Theatre, :uid nine congrega- 
tional, three episcopal, and two baptist churches, with one each 
for Roman catholics, methodists, and universalists. The public 
buildings are in general very handsome, and the greater part 
of the churches are ornamented with spires. 

The markets of Boston are well supplied with every kind of 
country provisions, fruit, and fish. The prices are not materially 
different from those of New York. Flour is generally a little high- 
er ; but cod-fish, which is the universal Saturday dinner, is lower. 

Boston is well situated for foreign commerce, of whieh it has a 
very large share. The harbour is spacious, and is capable of con- 
taining 500 sail of vesels. There are many wharfs constructed, of 
which the most remarkable is Long Wiarf, extending into the bay 
upwards of 1700 feet. The number of vessels that enter and clear 

• By tke ceosus of 1810, they were ZdflSO. 



78 TRAVJILS IN 

out annually is immense, carrying on a trade to Europe, the East 
and West Indies, and China, besides a very extensive coasting 
trade. The exports annually from this port probably amount to 
upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The principal manufactures arc of 
iron, leather, paper and glass, which are brought to great maturity, 
in all the various branches ; besides which, they have thriving ma- 
nufactories of hats, sail-cloth, cards, soap and candles, refined su- 
gar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There are ten distilleries, two brew- 
cries, eight sugar-heuses, and several rope-walks in and about the 
town; but one of the most important branches is ship-building, 
and the Bostonians seem generally more attached to the shipping 
trade than any other branch. There are in Boston three incorpo* 
rated banks, besides a branch of the United States* Bank, whose 
joint capitals amount to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and there 
are three or four insurance-olfices, with capitals of 3 or 400,000 
dollars each. 

There are a number of public societies in Boston, among which 
may be mentioned the American Academy of Arts and Sciences* 
Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston Library Society,* Agri- 
cultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine Society, Charitable 
Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and 
the Female Asylum. Public education is on an excellent footing; 
there are eight or nine public schools, supported at the expense of 
the town, which arc accessible to all the members of the commu- 
nity, free of expense : they are managed by a committee of twen- 
ty-one gentlemen, chosen annually, and are under good regula- 
tions. Besides these, there a number of private seminaries, at 
which all the various branches of education are taught; and upon 
the whole, I believe Boston may challenge a competition on this 
branch with any city in Europe, Edinburgh, in Scotland, perhaps, 
excepted. 

The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the mind, and 
the cultivation of the benevolent affections, are very apparent in the 
deportment of the citizens of Boston, who are intelligent, sober, 
and industrious ; and, though much attached to the subject of ret 
ligion, they are more liberal, generally speaking, than any people 
I have yet been amongst. The ladies of Boston are generally han 

* An Athenaeum has since been established, and is probably the most elegant lit^raij 
institution in America. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 79 

gomC) with fine complexions ; and, judging from the sample which 
I saw, they have a richness of intellect, and a cheerfulness of de- 
portment, that makes them truly interesting. Altogether, Boston 
is really a fine place. It was here that the revolution originated 
which terminated in the independence of America : and the town is 
justly celebrated as being the birth-place of that great luminary in 
literature and science, Dr. Franklin. 

During my stay in Boston, which was only a few days, I went to 
a number of the public places ; among others the State-House, 
from whence there is a most elegant view of the town, bay, ship- 
ping, neck, bridges, and the whole country round, to the distance 
of from twelve to fifteen miles in each direction, presenting most 
picturesque scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one 
direction you can see twenty miles out at sea, and in another a 
mountain, said to be distant sixty miles. 

The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, being works of 
great extent and utility, and constructed at a vast expense ; a proof 
of the sagacity and persevering industry of this pet^le. West Bos- 
ton bridge is upwards of 3000 fee4: long, and a causeway is connected 
with it 3000 more, connecting Boston with Cambridge. Charles River 
Bridge is 1500 feet long, and Maiden bridge is upwards of 2400 feet 
long : they are all built of wood, and have draws in the middle : the 
toll is reasonable. LongWharf has already been noticed. The Muse- 
um contains a very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities. 

Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o'clock in the morning, I set out by 
the stage for Salem, distant about seventeen miles. After crossing 
by Charles River Bridge, already noticed, we passed through 
Charlestown, a handsome town, which is only separated from Bos- 
ton by Charles River. It contains about 3000 inhabitants, and has 
two places of public worship. The United States have a navy-yard 
and marine hospital here, and towards the west end of the town, 
close by the river side, is the State- Prison, on the same principle as 
as those at Philadelphia and New Yoik, and said to be under ex- 
cellent management. At the north side of the town is Bunker's 
Hill, celebrated in the history of the American revolution. 

Leaving Charlestown, and travelling little more than a mile by 
the sea coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which we passed by a 
bridge 2424' feet long, and constructed upon the same principle as 
those already mentioned. About four miles from thence we passed 
ap extensive swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a ve- 



80 TRAVELS IN 

ly large size. At the farther end of the swamp we pasvsed a floating 
bridge, and a little after, ascending the bank, we arrived at Lynn, 
where we stopped to change horses at a very elegant tavern. Lynn 
is a pretty little town, remarkable for its extensive manufacture of 
shoes. From thence we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, 
through a very rugged stony country, but by an excellent turnpike 
road, made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here take 
occasion to remark that the Irish emigrants are exceedingly useful 
in this country, and a great portion of the most rugged labour in it 
is performed by them. The lower orders of the Irish are generally 
strong, robust men, without money, and with a very slender educa- 
tion : hence, they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile em- 
ployment ; and those who have not learned some mechanical pro- 
fession get employment in various branches of labour, for which 
they are well adapted ; and, getting good wages, they soon become 
independent and happy. Hence, the Irish are remarkable for their 
attachment to the American government, while many other foreign- 
ers, particularly those engaged in commerce, are discontented and 
fretful. 

The morning was damp and hazy, so that the view of the coun- 
try was not very agreeable ; and it was with regret that I observed 
it began to rain just as I entered my place of destination. 

Salem is, next to Boston, the lagest town in Massachusetts, 
and one of the earliest settled in the state. It is situated on a pen- 
in§p,laTormed by two branches of the sea, called North and South 
Rivers, and consists of about 1500 houses, and contained, in 1800, 
9547 inhabitants. The houses are built partly of wood, and part- 
ly of brick ; and many ot them are uncommonlj- elegant. The 
principal public buildings are a court-house, live congregational 
churches, and one each for quakers and episcopalians. Salem car- 
ries on a very extensive shipping trade, more business being done 
here in that line than in any town in the New England states,. Bos- 
ton excepted. There is a ship-yard in Salem, and a consider- 
able manufactory of sail-cloth. A bank has been long established. 
The inhabitants are said to be industrious and frugal, and the ap- 
pearance of the town indicates a considerable accumulation of wealth. 

On my arrival, I went to see the wharves and shipping, which 
are very extensive. Salem is remarkable as being the residence 
of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest ship-owner in America, having 
n vast number of square-rigged vessels, many of which are in the 



MASSACHUSETTS. 81 

India trade. One of these vessels was coming into port while I 
stood on the wharf, and it appeared it would be with considerable 
difficulty she could get into the harbour, the entrance being very 
shallow ; and I was informed, that in consequence of this circum- 
stance, Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston. 

On my return to the Coffee-House, I found the following senti- 
ment in one of the Salem newspapers : " There is reason to fear 
that a peace will at length be concluded betwen France and Britain ; 
and if that unfortunatelij be the case, the independence of the 
latter is gone for ever, and we may soon look for an attack upon 
the liberties of America." In the course of my travels through 
the United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments, 
principally from those professing the greatest regard for Britain ; 
but I must say, that they appear to me to be very incorrect. I 
grant it is better for Britain, or any other nation, to continue 
in a state of war, than to make a dishonourable peace, or to sub- 
mit to have their rights infringed by their neighbours ; but the 
sentiment in question, unqualified as it is, seems to breathe a wish 
for eternal war. It expresses a dread of Britain making peace at 
all, and considers war and independence so intimately allied, that 
the one cannot be given up without the other. But, in mj'^ opinion, 
the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is the present war — one 
of the greatest blessings to that country would be an honourable 
and lasting peace. As to the supposed attack upon the liberties of 
America, I think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the 
subject, and implies an idea highly derogatory to the American 
character. It is perfectly obvious to me, from what I have seen in 
this country, that the Americans could mtiintain their liberties 
against the whole world combined, and no single nation, however 
powerful, would be mad enough to make an attack, which would 
infallibly end in disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards 
of six millions o^free people, and, if invaded, could at a short 
notice turn out a million of fighting men. This flict is well 
known in Europe, and would, of course, enter into the calcu- 
lation of any general who would plan an attack upon the country. 
He could not hope for success without at least an equal number; 
and we may safely presume, that an army will never be sent 
three thousand miles, on an expedition which, though successful, 
would not pay one thousandth part of the expense. 

The afternoon continued wet, and rather cold. I returned to 
Boston in the evening by the stage. 1 1 



S2 



TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Netv Havipshire» 

JjEING at the extremity of my journey to the north-eastward, 
and in the metropoh's of tlie New England states, I shall, before 
leaving it, take a view of the states of New Hampshire and Ver- 
mont. 

NEW HAMPSHIRE 

Is situated between 42° 42' and 45° 13' north latitude, and 4° 
23' and 6° 10' east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, and its 
greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491 square miles, contain- 
ing 6,074,240 aeres. 

The state has about 15 miles of sea-coast, from whence it ex- 
tends in breadth, and is generally level towards the sea, rising 
gradually from 20 to 30 miles, when the mountains commence, 
and these are more lofty than in any other part of the United 
States ; the White Mountains being visible 30 miles out at sea, 
and computed by Dr. Belbiap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. Williams 
at 7800. There are large and rich valleys among the mountains, 
and a number of level plains along Connecticut river. There 
are several lakes m the state, but none of any gi'eat importance, 
except IVinnipiscogce^ near the centre, 24 miles long, and of 
unequal breadth, from 3 to 12 miles. It is full of islands, and, 
!)eing navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves 
:i considerable convenience to that part of the country. The 
})rincipal river is Connecticut, which is the boundary line between 
this state and Vermont. The Piscataqua is the boundary line, 
for a little wa}', between this state and the district of Maine; and 
forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hamp- 
shire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the Notch, 
which is a pass through the mountains, at one place only 22 
feet wide, and, being bounded by rocks almost perpendicular, 
and of great height, presents a scene strikingly picturesque. 

The minerals quoted are ochres, isinglass, chrystals, sulphur, 
free-stone, lead, black lead, and copper ; but the most valua- 
ble is iron, which is found in many places, and is wrought in 
considerable quantities. 

The soil, near the sea -coast, is in some places sandy, but near 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 83 

the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise the case in the 
valleys among the mountains. The mountains are, many of them, 
rocky and barren, but others are fertile on the brows, and nearly 
all are covered with timber. 

The climate is healthy, but the wintei'S are long and severe, 
and there are great extremes of heat and cold. Mr. Belknap 
has observed the thermometer at 18° below 0°, and in summer it 
has risen to nearly 100°; the average is about 48° or 50°. Snow- 
lies on the ground from three to four months, and the use of 
sleighs, during that period, is general. The spring is rapid ; and 
the summer and fall are generally pleasant. 

The country was first discovered in 1614. The first settlement 
was made in 1623. The inhabitants took an active part in the 
revolutionary war, and sent two delegates to congress in 1774; 
in 1788 they adopted the federal constitution; and the state con- 
stitution, as it now stands, was ratified in 1792. The state sends 
two senators and five representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into six counties, and 219 townships, of 
six miles square each. Its population in 1800 was 183,850, being 
nearly 20 to the square mile. 

Although this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be ob- 
servedj'that a great part of the state is covered by mountains, which 
are incapable of cultivation. The sea-coast, valleys, and fertile 
spots, are said to be thickly settled, and these places have kept 
pace in improvements with the other New England states. Ports- 
mGuth, on the Piscataqua river, two miles from the sea, is the 
principal town, and being the only seaport, it has a pretty o-ood 
trade; it contains 5,500 inhabitants. Concord is the seat of 
government, and contains 2050. Dover contains 2062; Amherst, 
2150: Hanover, 1920; Exeter, 1730: Keene, 1645; Cliarleston, 
1634; Durham, 1128; there are 3 other.^, containing from 500 
to 1000. 

Small villages and farm-houses are numerous, and the country 
is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some elegant bridoes, 
of which the chief is across the Piscataqua, seven miles above 
Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and cost 68,000 dollars. 

Agriculture is the chief business of the state, and is well con- 
ducted. The principal products are beefj pork, mutton, poultry, 
wheat, corn, and other grain ; butter, cheese, flax, hemp, hops, 
vegetables, apples, pears, &c. 



84 TRAVELS IN 

The country people generally mauufacture their own clothing, 
and make considerable quantities of tow cloth for exportation* 
The other manufactures are ashes, maple-sugar, bricks, pottery, 
and iron ware. 

A great part of the surplus produce of this state is carried to 
Boston, which prevents it from making a great figure in the scale 
of exports; the amount in 1805, was 608,408 dollars, but it seldom 
exceeds half a million. All the export trade centres at Portsmouth. 

The inhabitants are represented as hardy, robust, and active. 
Education has been very veil attended to. There is a ccllege at 
Dartmouth, supported by a grant of 80,000 acres of land, and 
there are a number of academies, schools, and public libraries. 

The government is founded upon a bill of rights, declaring 
that all men are born equally free and independent ; and that all 
government originates from the people : that every man has a 
Tight to worship God according to the dictates of his conscience : 
that all elections ought to be free, and that every inhabitant of 
the state, having the proper qualifications, has an equal right to 
elect, and be elected, into office : that there shall be no hereditary 
rights, and that the press shall be free. 

The exercise of the government is vested in a legislature, con- 
sisting of a senate and house of representatives ; a governor and 
council to execute the laws; and a judiciary to promote justice 
between man and man. The senate consists of 13 members, 
chosen annually by the people ; each member must be pos- 
sessed of a freehold estate of £. 200. The representatives 
are apportioned according to the population, every town which 
has 150 rateable polls being entitled to one representative ; having 
450, they are entitled to two. They are also elected annually, 
and must be possessed of a freehold of ^. 100. The governor is, 
in like manaier, elected annually, and must be possessed of a 
freehold of £. 500. There are five counsellors, who are choseii 
annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of £. SOO. 

The following extract from the constitution ought to be gene- 
rally known. 

« Knowledge and learning, generally diffiised through a com- 
munity, being essential to the preservation of a free government ; 
and spreading the opportunities and advantages of education 
through the various parts of the country, being highly conducive 
to promote this end ; it shall be the duty of the legislators and 



VERMONT. 85 

magistrates, in all future periods of this government, to cherish 
the interest of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries and pub- 
lic schools, to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and 
immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, com- 
merce, trade, manufactures, and natural history of the countiy ; 
to countenance and inculcate the principles ofhumanity and general 
benevolence, public and private charity, industry and economy, 
honesty and punctuality, sincerity, sobriety, and all social affec- 
tions and generous sentiments, among the people," 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Vermont. 

Is situated between 42° 42' and ^5° north latitude, and 3° 38/ 
and 5° 27' east longitude. It is 166 miles long, and its greatest 
breadth is 93 miles. Its area is about 10,237 square miles, or 
6,551,680 acres. 

This state is mostly hilly, but not rocky, and towards Canada 
it is level. An extensive chain of high mountains runs through 
the middle, nearly south and north, which abounds with elegant 
scenery. Among those there are beautiful and fertile valleys; 
and the whole is finely w^atered with springs. Lake Champlain 
and its waters divides the state from New York on the west ; and 
the Connecticut river from New Hampshii-e on the east. There 
are several rivers towards Canada. No part of the state is on the 
seaboard. 

Iron is found in abundance throughout the state. Lead, cop- 
peras, fhnt, and vitriol have been found, and the west side of 
the state abounds with marble. 

This state, notwithstanding its mountains, contains a great deal 
of excellent soil. 

The climate is similar to New Hampshire. 

The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by the 
adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York ; but the in- 
habitants wished it to become an independent state in 1 777, and 
the green mountain boys^ as they were called, took a very active 
part in the war of the revolution ; but they did not succeed in 
establishing their claim of independence till 1791, when they 



Sff VEltMONT. 

were admitted, a l-ith state, into the union. The constitution 
was adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends two senators and 
four representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into 12 counties, and 245 townships of six 
miles square. The population, by the census of 1800, was 
154,465, being upwards of 15 to the square mile. 

Vermont being off the sea-coast, or, as it is somethnes termed, 
far from a market, there are no large commercial cities ; but there 
are a number of little towns, few of which have more than two 
thousand inhabitants. 

MoNTPELLiER is the seat of government, and contains 1500; 
Bennington 2250, Windsor 2200, Rutland 2130, Newbury 2000, 
Manchester 2000, Ncwfane 1700, St. Alban's 1400, Middlebury 
1260, Burlington 1100, St. Hero 1000, Craftsbury 1000, Bruns- 
wick 1000. 

The great business of the state is agriculture, in which the inha- 
bitants are said to have made considerable progress. The soil is 
generally more productive than that of New Hampshire : the pror 
duce is nearly the same. The brows of the mountains answer well 
for grazing : they raise great stores of beef and pork, with ex- 
cellent butter and cheese for market; and of late they have made 
great piogress in raising sheep and wool. 

The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind, consisting 
of wool and flax, for family use. Iron is manufactured ; and a con- 
siderable quantity of pot and pearl ashes. 

The only external trade of Vermont is with Canada, and the ex-? 
ports, in 1805, amounted to 169,402 dollars; but the state has a 
considerable commerce, through the medium of its rivers, with 
New York, Hartford and Boston. 

The inhabitants are represented, by travellers whom I have conver- 
sed \vith, asbejng hardy, robust, full-featured, and florid in their com- 
plexions : as they are mostly all agriculturalists or mechanics, they 
are independent in their sentiments, and their wants being mostly 
supplied among themselves, they are not subject to great vicissi- 
tudes of fortune, and are generally wealthy in proportion as they 
are industrious. The system of education partakes of this^quality : 
they have two seminaries for the higher branches of education ; but 
the chief object of the legislature has been to provide for the gene- 
ral diffusion of knowledge, by having conunon schools in every tQwn7 
ship : a plan highly praiseworthy, and which every community 
ought to imitate. 



MASSACHUSETTS. S7 

The declaration of rights is nearly the saine as that of New 
Hampshire ; but they have an article declaring that no male born 
in the country, or brought over sea, can be held in bondage after 
21, and no female after 18 years of age. 

The plan of government is legislative, executive and judiciary. 
The legislative power is vested in representatives, chosen annually, 
every free male of 21 years and upwards, who pays taxes, having a 
vote. The executive is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, 
and council of 12, chosen annually, in like manner: and in order 
" that the freedom of the commonwealth may be kept inviolate for 
ever," a council of censors is chosen once in seven years, whose duty 
it is to see that the constitution has been preserved inviolate; whe- 
ther the taxes have been paid, and the public monies properly dis- 
posed of; whether the public servants have done their duty, and 
the laws been duly executed : and they are empowered, if they 
judge it necessary, to call a convention, to meet two years after 
their sitting, to revise and amend the constitution. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Cambridge^ — Worcester , — Springfield, — Suffield. __,^ 

JH. A VING taken my leave of a number of kind friends, with whom 
I had associated during my stay in Boston, I engaged a passage by 
the mail stage for New York, and was called to take my place on 
the 4th of September, at 2 o'clock in the morning. It is the prac- 
tice here for the di'iver to call on the passengers, before setting out, 
and it is attended with a considerable degree of convenience to them, 
particularly when they set out early in the morning. The mail 
stages here are altogether different in construction from the mail 
coaches in Britain ; they are long machines, hung upon leather bra- 
ces, with three seats across, of a sufficient length to accommodate 
three persons each, who all sit with their faces towards the horses ; 
the driver sits under cover, without any division between him and 
the passengers, and there is room for a person to sit on each side 
of him. The driver, by the post-office regulations, must be a white 
man, and he has the charge of the mail, which is placed in a box be- 
low his seat : there is no guard. The passengers' luggage is put 
below the seats, or tied on behind the stage; they put nothings on 



^ TRAVELS IN 

the top, and they take no outside passengers. The stages are slight- 
ly built, and the roof supported on pillars ; with a curtain, to be let 
down or folded up, at pleasure. The conveyance is easy, and in 
summer very agreeable ; but it must be excessively cold in winter. 

There was an Englisman, a facetious, merry fellow, who lodg- 
ed at Chappotin's, and took his passage along with me. On tak- 
ing our places, we found a lady passenger already in the stage, 
and our company was afterwards augmented by three more, name- 
ly, a gentleman from the West Indies, one from Hudson, and a 
young lady. By the time we got all the passengers and the mail 
on hoards it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston 
by West Boston bridge ; and three miles beyond it we passed 
through Cambridge, which, at that early hour, I could not see, 
but 1 learned that the situation is handsome, and that it contains 
a university, which is reputed the best literary institution in the 
United States. It was established in 1638, and has now four 
large buildings, with accommodations sufficient to contain up- 
wards of 200 students, who attend it annually, and are instructed 
in all the various branches of human knowledge. Attached to 
the institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small museum, and 
a very extensive library. The village of Cambridge contains about 
1000 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood. The 
public buildings are, besides the university, a court-house, an e- 
piscopal, and a congregational church. 

We travelled 13 miles before we had fair day-light, during 
which, we passed through Watertown and W^altham, to Weston. 
It is to be observed, that towns, in the New England states, do 
not always imply a collection of houses in one place, sufficient to 
form a village. The whole country is divided into districts, of 
about six miles square each, and these are called towns, whether 
they be thickly settled or not. The arrangement of these towns 
is somewhat assimilated to the parishes in Scotland, having each a 
separate jurisdiction within itself, which regulates the affiiirs of re- 
ligion and of education, and makes provision for the poor. They 
are also of great importance in the elections, which are conducted 
throughout the whole state in one day, the people voting in their 
•respective town», which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and 
confusion. In travelhng through the country, you go from one 
town to another, and are never out of one ; it is therefore, only 
where the towns contain villages, that I mean to notice them, and. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 89 

in giving the population, it is to be observed, that it includes the 
whole ot* the township, that being the mode in which the census is 
taken. Weston, which I last noticed, contains about 1200 in- 
habitants. The country is said to be well cultivated and thickly 
settled, all the way from Boston. 

We could now see one another's faces, and the morning being 
clear and healthy, we were in high spirits, and disposed for en- 
joyment. One of our lady passengers was a beautiful country 
girl, but we learned that she was to travel with us only 28 miles ; 
and our facetious Englishman seemed disposed to improve the 
time by orations in favour of her eyes, or beautiful twinJders as 
he called them. They certainly were very pretty, and she had 
a blooming look, the indication of a hlxjthc hearty accordinjr^ to the 
Scots proverb. The other lady, we learned, was travelling to 
Springfield, 80 miles ; but she was quite eclipsed by her fair 
companion, and came in for no share of the Englishman's com- 
pliments, while the other remained with us. 

From Weston, we passed through a thickly settled and well 
cultivated country, by Sudbury, Marlborough, and Westborough; 
and, 45 miles from Boston, we anived at W^orcester. 

This is a prett}^ place, and said to be one of the largest inland 
towns in the state. It is the capital of a county to \^'hich it gives 
the name, and is situated in a pleasant valley, mostlj^ on one 
street, which is broad and handsome. The houses are generally 
of wood, painted white; and are in number about 400. The 
inhabitants amount to about 2500. The public buildings are a 
court-house, jail, and 2 congregational churches. They have a 
pretty extensive inland trade at this place, and the printing busi- 
ness has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas, who 
is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is proposed to 
open an inland navigation between this place and Providence, 
distant about 40 miles, and if it should take place, it is sup- 
posed that it will be attended with great advantage. 

From thence we passed through Leicester and Spencer, and, 
getting into a hilly country, we continued our course to Brook- 
field, about 21 miles from Worcester. This is a handsome 
post-town, situated on Quebang river, 20 miles above its junc- 
tion with Connecticut river, and in a rich, fertile country, 
abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and vegetables: it contains 
Hoarly 3000 inhabitants, and has four places for public worship. 

12 



90 



TRAVELS IN 



The river abounds with fish, and the country round contains 
great quantities of iron ore. 

Seven miles tVoia hence we reached Western, 73 miles from 
Boston ; and here day-hght having failed us, my observations on 
the scenery of the country were terminated for the day. 

This was t'.ie first inland journey I had made in the northern 
states, antl I was highly delighted with every thing I saw, which 
f«)rmcd a perfect contrast to Georgia ; and the villages, the fields, 
the farm-houses, the gardens, and the orchards, far surpassed 
what is to be generally seen, even in " Scotia, my dear, my na- 
tive soil." The inhabitants every where appeared to be industri- 
ous, contented, and happy; and I found them always civil and 
well-bred, and ready to give me every information. 

Our company were lively and cheerful. Our facetious English- 
man was quite in high spirits; and jocularly threatened to have 
me denounced as a spy. 1 retaliated by threatening to have him 
denounced as a flatterer of the fair sex, of whom he seemed de- 
ternjined to spare neither age, features, nor complexion ; for the 
beauty having left us, and ceasing to allure him by her " witch- 
ing smile," the other lady, whom I did not think handsome, 
came in for an extravagant share of compliment. " The night 
drave on vvi' sangs an' clatter." Our West Indian, who was a 
Yankee by birth, entertained us with a history oi bundlmg ; and 
we had a vast variety of songs, among which was " Yankee Doodle," 
Iji prosecuting our journey to Springfield, we stopped at a 
small tavern to change horses, and in the mean time went into 
the house to warm ourselves, for the evening had become cold. 
In passing through the parlour we saw a, tall, elegant girl, to 
whom our gentlemen began immediately to make love ; but I pro- 
secuted my way to the kitchen fire, where there sat another yovmg 
girl, and she was beautiful. She was dressed in substantial home- 
spun, but very clean, and was knitting a stocking. Her age 
might be about 16, and her name was Liicretia. I entered into 
conversation with her, and her voice was as sweet as her counte- 
nance. I was delighted with her appearance. At length in came 
the other passengers, lalth a bang ; and our facetious friend, who 
seemed to have reserved the very quintessence of his talent for 
compliment for the occasion, began an oration about fine arched 
eye-brows, aquiline noses, and beautiful twinklers, which proba- 
bly would have lasted half an Itour, had we not been called away 



MASSAGKUSETTS. 9 ' 

to take our seats in the stage. We soon observed ihiit all 
parties were not pleased, for we heard the Yankee lads 
grumbling as we passed them ; and the Yankee lady passenger 
observed, with a toss of her b.ead, that she could not see v.hal 
we all had to make such a fuss about. 

At 10 o'clock we reached Springfield, said to be a handsome 
and thriving town, situated on the east side of the Connecticut 
river, 97 miles from Boston. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, 
who carry on a considerable inland trade ; and have established 
a respectable manufactory of fire-arms. The public buildings are 
a court-house and a congregational church. 

The Connecticut River, on which Springfield is situated, is 
one of the most considerable and important in the United States. 
It rises on the high lands which separate the states of Vci raont 
and New Hampshire from Upper Canada ; and pursuing a course 
a little to the west of south, falls into Long Island Sound ; its 
length, including its windings, being about 300 miles. It forms 
the boundary line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and 
passes through the interior of Massachusetts and Connecticut. 
Its banks are highly cultivated and thickly settled, through its 
whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which there is only 
10 feet water, and interiorly it is much obstructed by falls; but 
it is navigable for sea vessels to Hartford ; and there is a great 
trade on the river above that place ; particularly downwards, in 
flat-bottomed boats. The river abounds with salmon, and 
other fish. It is in contemplation to improve the navigation by 
locks at sevei'al places, and to connect it with Merriraac river, 
distant 50 miles, by a canal. 

Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along its west 
bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Coiuiecticut, where we stopped 
for the night. Here I suspend my account of the journevj to 
take a short review of the interesting state of Massachusetts. 



92 MAssAcnusET rs. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Massachussets 

Is situated between 41° 13' and 42° 52' north latitude, and 3" 
28' and 7° east longitude. Its extreme length is l&O miles, and 
its greatest breadth 100. Its square contents is 8765 miles, being 
about 5,609,600 acres. 

The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The coast on 
the east side, is indented with bays, and studded with islands, 
which afford ample harbours for shipping, and support a hardy 
race of sailors and fishermen. Toward the middle the surface is 
agreeably uneven, and the west sw^ells out into mountains, some 
of which are of very considerable height. The state is well water- 
ed, abounding in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are 
Connecticut and Merrimac, already noticed. 

The principal minei'al is iron, of which the state produces a 
great quantity. A copper mine lias been discovered; and there 
are considerable quantities of clays and ochres, and slate, marble, 
and limestone. 

The soil is various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy and 
barren ; in the interior it improves ; and toward the western 
parts, where the country is hilly, it is best adapted for grazing. 
"Wheat crops are not abundant, but it produces Indian corn, 
rj'e, barley, and oats. Vegetables and fruit come to great per- 
fection, and are of much value in the state. Flax and some hemp 
are cultivated; and hops grow luxuriantly. 

The climate is very much assimilated to that of Rhode Island, 
Toward the west, the winters are more cold and severe than on the 
coast, but the weather is more steady, and the whole is healthy. 

Massachusetts was first settled in 1620, by a colony of puritans 
from Holland, who had been driven there from England, 20 years 
before. These arrived and settled at Plymouth ; and eight years 
thereafter, another colony arrived from England, and settled at 
Salem. These colonies soon encreased, and laid the foundation 
for a powerful state, now one of the first in the union. The 
revolution originated in Massachusetts, which bore an active share 
throughout the war. It now sends 1 7 representatives and two 
senators to tlie congress of the United Sates. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 93 

Massachusetts proper, is divided into 12 counties and 279 
townships. The inhabitants, by last census, amounted to 422,845, 
being about 48 to the square mile. 

This state is well cultivated, and abounds vi^ith wealth. Boston 
is the capital, and the next town in importance is Salem. These, 
and several others, have been noticed- Of the remainder, the 
most important is MarMekead, a sea-port, containing upwards of 
,5000 inhabitants. Newhiryport is a handsome sea-port, con- 
taining nearly 6000 inhabitants, and has several manufactories, 
and a large shipping trade. Ips'wich contains 3000 inliabitants; 
and Concord, a flourishing town on Concord river, is remarka- 
ble as being the place where the provincial congress held their de- 
liberations during the war. Taunton, Northampton, Stockbridge, 
Pittsfield, and Baimstaple, are all towns of considerable note. 
The state is intersected in every direction with good roads, and 
the bridges are numerous and very important. 

The greater part of the manufactures have already been enume- 
rated in the account of Boston ; but it may be noticed, that, in the 
interior, there is a vast variety of domestic manufactures ; and several 
others upon a larger .scale, particularly of woollen and cotton. 

The exports of the state are provisions, timber, ashes, flax-seed, 
bees-wax, fish, oil, saddlery, cabinet-work, boots and shoes, nails, 
tow-cloth, iron utensils, glass, spirits, &c. The imports are British 
manufactures, tea, wine, silks, spirits, coffee, cotton, &c. Com- 
merce is pursued with an ardent spirit in the state ; and it is said 
that INIassachusetts owns more shipping than any other state in the 
union. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 19,435,657 dollars; 
but 14,738,606 dollars consisted of foreign produce, and, of the re- 
mainder, a considerable portion was that of odier states. The state 
has very extensive fisheries, the product of which is annually of 
great value. 

The state of society is a good deal assimilated to that of Rhode 
Island, described in the tenth chapter, with this essential difference, 
that slavery is totally abolished jn all its branches. The air is, like 
that of Britain, " too pure for a slave to live in ;" and, wdth regard 
to the white people, I think it is « more pure," for here they are all 
on an equal footing, having neither nobles, nor priests, nor rents» 
nor tythes. The rehgious matters, like the state of Rhode Island, 
and, indeed, all the other states, are managed by each religious sect 
in its own way, who are not suffered to interfere with the civil 



94 TRAVELS IN 

rights of their neighbours, so that the sting is drawn out of the tail 
of the scorpion of religious discord. No sect is elevated above ano- 
ther; and all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they en- 
joy, in the protection of equal laws. The literary, humane, and 
other institutions, are numerous, and exhibit a fair trait in the cha- 
racter of the inhabitants. 

On the subject of literature, the constitution declares that " wis- 
dom and knowledge, as well as virtue, diifused generally among the 
body of the people, being necessary for the preservation of their 
rights and liberties ; and as these depend on spreading the oppor- 
tunities and advantages of education in the various parts of the 
country, and among the different orders of the people, it shall be 
the duty of the legislatures and magistrates, in all future periods of 
the commonwealth, to cherish the interests of literature and the sci- 
ences, and all seminaries of them; especially the university at Cam- 
bridge, public schools, and grammar-schools in the towns ; to en- 
courage private societies and public institutions, by rewards and 
immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, com- 
merce, trades, manufactures, and natural history of the country ; 
to countenance and inculcate the principlies of humanity and gene- 
ral benevolence, public and private charity, industry and frugality, 
honesty and punctuality in their dealings; sincerity, good-humour, 
and all social affections and generous sentiments among the people." 

Dr. INIore says, " According to the laws of this commonwealth, 
every town having 50 householders or upwards, is to be provided 
with one or more schoolmasters, to teach children and youth to 
read and write, and instruct them in the English language, arith- 
metic, orthography, and decent behaviour ; and where any town 
has 200 families, there is also to be a grammar-school set up there- 
in, and some discreet person, well instructed in the Latin, Greek, 
and English languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably 
paid by the inhabitants. The penalty for neglect of schools, in 
towns of 50 families, is ^10. ; those of 100 families, £20.; and of 
150, £30. 

The state government is vested in a senate and house of represent- 
atives, styled the General Court ; a governor, lieutenant-governor, 
and council. The senators ai'e 40 in number, and are elected an- 
nually in districts ; and the voters must be possessed of a freehold 
estate of 5^3. or any estate of the value o^ £60. The representatives 
are elected annually, in townships : every corporate town contain- 



MASSACHUSETTS. 95 

ing 150 rateable polls elect J, those containing S7S elect 2, those 
containing 600 elect 3, and so on, making, 225 the number for e- 
very additional representative. The electors must be possessed of the 
same property as for senators. The governor is styled Jiis excellency., 
and must be possessed of a freehold of aClOOO. He is elected annu- 
ally by those qualified to vote for senators and representatives. 
The lieutenant-governor is styled his honour, and must have the 
same qualifications, and be elected in the same manner as the go- 
vernor. The council consists of nine persons, chosen from the se- 
nators by joint ballot of the senators and representatives. 

The District of Maine is politically connected with Massa- 
chusetts, and is of great extent, being about 250 miles long by 192 
broad, and contains an area of Si'jOOO square miles, or 21,760,000 
acres. 

The first settlement took place about the year 1630; and the in- 
habitants, who have been greatly augmented by emigration from the 
adjoining states, amounted, by the last census, to 151,719, being 
less than 4 to the square mile ; but they are rapidly increasing. 

There area number of considerable towns on the coast, of which the 
chief is Portland, which contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and has a 
great and increasing trade. York is the second in importance, and is a 
place of considerable business. Hallo'well, Wiscasset, and Machias 
are considerable places, to say nothing of Passamaquoddy, a sort of 
Land's End in Cornxaall, or Johnny Groafs Uotise, at the very extre- 
mity of the Union, and which sends out a considerable number of 
small vessels. 

The laud on the sea-coast is stony and barren ; but there arc 
tracts of good land in the interior of the country, which produce 
grain and fruits, and tlie country is remarkably well calculated for 
grazing. 

The principal trade consists in lumber and fish, of which the in- 
habitants carry great quantities to the sea-ports of America, and to 
the West Indies. The manufactures are principally of the domes- 
tic kind. 

The state of society is nearly the same as in Massachusetts. 

The face of the country is hilly, but not mountainous; and the 
coast is completely indented with bays and rivers. The winters are 
long and severe, with clear settled weather : the summers are short, 
but very agreeable : of spring there is hardly any ; but the autumns 
arc generally clear and healthy. 



96 



TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER XVti. 

Hartford^ — Neixihaven, — Stamford. 

September S. We resumed our journey tlii* morning at 
3 o'clock, and travelled towards Hartford, keeping near the? 
banks of the rivef. The morning was serene and clear, but a 
little cold. We could see nothing of the countiy at that early 
hour ; but we were informed that it was handsome, and well im- 
pFoved, The road js level and good. Ten miles from Suffield, 
we passed through Windsor^ a pleasant town, situated on Windsor 
Ferry River, which we passed by a wooden bridge. We now had 
day-light, and an agreeable journey for six miles farther, to Hart- 
ford, which we reached at 7 o'clock, to breakfast. 

Hartford is a handsome city, the capital of Connecticut, and 
is, alternately with Newhaveti, the seat of legislation for the state* 
It is situated on Connecticut River, at the head of sloop naviga- 
tion, 50 miles above Long Island Sound. It is regularly laid out, 
the streets crossing one another at right angles ; but they are not 
paved, and, when I saw them, they were very muddy. The city 
consists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000 
inhabitants.* The public buildings are the State-House, an ele- 
gant edifice, two congregational churches^ and one episcopal 
church. The citizens carry on an active commerce, in all the 
products of the state, to the southern states and the West Indies J 
and they have a large share of country trade. Considerable ma- 
nufactures are carried on with spirit, and are increasing. The mar- 
kets are well supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold 
at reasonable rates. 

On leaving the city, we got an addition to our comjmny, of some 
students going to Newhaven, and some young ladies ; and we had 
a great deal of entertainment from the lemarks of our facetious 
Englishman, who began by questioning the students, why the 
citizens of Hartford had not paved the streets ? They gave some 
account of it, which I do not recollect; but it was not satisfactory j 
and one of our company attempted to solve the difficulty, by al- 
leging that it was probably with a view of encouraging the 

• Bjr- the census of 18iO they were 3,955. 



CONNECTICUT* 



97 



growth of the young women. He had remarked, that the young 
ladies of Hartford were uncommonly tall; and as sap and soil were 
very necessary to the growth of vegetable substances, and the citi- 
zens of Hartford were a philosophical people, and " full of no- 
tions," it was likely they had tried the experiment with the ani- 
mal creation, and had succeeded. The students were higlily di- 
verted, and laughed heartily at what they called his odd " notion." 
The ladies in the stage were too young to attract the attention of 
our friend ; but many a remark did he make on those we passed, 
who, " to conceal nothing," as Goldsmith says, " were certainly 
very handsome." The weather was delightful, and the view of 
the country was highly gratifying. The fields were well cultivated, 
abounding with fruits of all sorts; and we purchased from a coun- 
tryman, en passant^ a whole basket full of peaches for a mere trifle, 
which kept us well supplied in fruit the whole way to Newhaven. 

We took, as we were informed, a new road ; and passing se- 
veral villages of inferior note, we reached Wallingford, 26 miles 
fi'om Hartford, about 12 o'clock. Here we had a delightful view, 
and were informed that this district was celebrated for raising 
onions, and that a company of young girls had cultivated that 
root so successfully, in a neighbouring town, that they had built a 
church with the proceeds. This account of the industry of the 
young women was highly gratifying, and we were really delighted 
with their blooming countenances, and the cleanly, substantial 
dress which they wore. It was plain and simple, but so much the 
better ; 

For loveliness 
Needs not the foreign aid of ornament, 
But is, when unadorn'd, adorn'd the most. 

In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a very elegant 
country, where we had a number of fine views ; and we reached 
the great, enlightened city of Newhaven, at 2 , o'clock. Here 
we stopped for dinner, and we had some little time to take a view 
of the town. 

Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding scenery is very 
fine, and the situation pleasant, and favourable for commerce. 
It is built on a considerable bay, on Long Island Sound, and 
covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a river on each side 
of it. The streets cross one another at right angles, iind there is a 
square in the middle, round which are the pubhc buildino's, which 

13 



98 CONNECTICUT. 

have a very liatulsom':" appearance. They are the colleges, State- 
House, three congregational, and one episcopal church. I regret- 
ted that my time did not permit me to see the College, which is 
esteemed one of the best seminaries in the United States, and, by 
the citizens of Newhaven, is considered the verj/ best. Thfe • eity 
contains nearly 6000 inhabitants, w^ho carry on a very active trade 
•with New York and the West Indies; and they have estabhshed 
considerable manufactures, which are said to be in a thriving state. 

We took our departure from Newhaven about 4 o'clock, and 
travelling thirteen miles through a pretty good tract of country, 
along the Sound, we reached Milford, a considerable town, hav- 
ing several churches, and from thence, through a count r}^ nearly 
similar, a few miles, we passed the Housatonic River, by a ferry. 
This river rises about the bordei-s of Massachusetts, and running 
a south-east course, the whole breadth of the state of Connecticut, 
falls into the Sound a little below where we crossed it. It is navi- 
gable to Derb}', twelve miles up, and above that is very important 
for mills and machinery ; the country on its banks is said to be 
very romantic. Four miles from this river we passed Stratford, a 
pleasant town, and of considerable extent; and now day-light 
failed us, and terminated my observations. 

We continued our course through Fairfeld and Noi-^alk, said 
to be considerable and pleasant towns ; and at 12 o'clock reached 
Stamford, 44' miles from Newhaven, where we stopped for the night. 
In our way, we passed a number of rivers ot inferior note, and 
part of the country appearetl to l)e rough, and the road very bad ;. 
but we were informed that a new line of turnpike road was in for- 
wardness, and, would soon be fmished. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Connect ieiit. 

Is situated between il° and.42° north latitude, and 3° 20' and 5* 

east longitude. Its greatest length is S3 miles, and its greatest 

breadth 72. Its area is 4400 square miles, or 2,816,000 acres. 

The face of the country is agreeably uneven. To the south the 

^oast extends along the Sound the whole length of the state, and 

lias many fine inlets, which are. highly advantageous to commerce* 



CONNECTICUT. 99 

Towards the north-west the country swells out into high, broken, 
hilly lands, but thei-e are no mountains. This hilly country is said 
to be very romantic. The state is remarkably well watered, 
abounding in small streams. The principal rivers are Connecticut 
and Housatonic, already mentioned, and the Thames. This last 
river is formed at Norwich of two branches, called Shetucket and 
Lit'ie rivers; and thence runs a due south course, l-t miles, to 
tha sound. It has a fine harbour at New London, and is navigable 
for sxv.-ili vessels to Norwich. 

Irc.ii ore is found in the state in great abundance, and lead 
copper, and zinc have also been discovered, though in no great 
quantities. Pit-coal has been found, but, I believe, -not in suffi- 
cie:"- (juantity to induce the inhabitants to dig for it. Thei'e are a 
nuni'jer of mineral springs in the state; the most important is in 
LU.htield county, which is highly impregnated with carbonic acid 
ga . :uid sulphurated hydrogen gas; and is said to be very useful 
in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheumatism, and 
those of the cutaneous kind. 

The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy, and some 
very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great deal of good land, 
and the state is remarkably well calculated for grazing. 

The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, passing to 
the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very healthy, and the 
state abounds with remarkable instances of longevity. 

The first settlement was made in the year 1633, by some Dutch 
and English traders with the Indians. In 16G2, a charter was 
granted by Charles II. which still serves as the basis of the 
state government; and which, from the ignorance of the British 
government, at that time, of the geography of the c(juntry, has 
involved some singular disputes about land titles. Connecticut 
bore an active share in the war for indejicndence ; and now forms a 
very important state in the union, sending two senators and seven 
representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into eight counties and 107 townships. 
The population, in 1800, was 251,002, including 951 slaves, be- 
ing about 57 to a sijuare mile. 

The country is highly improved, and abounds with handsome 
towns, villages, and farm-houses. There are five incorporated 
cities, viz, Hartford, Ncwhaven, New Lo7idon, Norwich and Mid- 
dletown, Hie two first have been noticed. New London is hand- 



100 



CONNECTICUT. 



somely situated on tlie Thames, and has an excellent harbour, and 
extensive trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants, and has 
a bank, and three houses for public worship. No7~jcich is on 
the same river, at the head of navigation, and has numerous ma- 
nufactures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly 3000 in- 
habitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance com2:)any, 
an academy, and three places for public worship. Middleto-dojif 
situated on Connecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, contains 
about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. Inhere 
is a bank, an insurance company, a court-house and two places for 
public worship in the city. Lichjield\% a fine town, containing up- 
wards of 4000 people. It is beautifully situated in an elevated 
part of the state, and has a court-house, meeting-house, and aca- 
demy. Wethersfield is the oldest town in the state, and is remark- 
able for the culture of onions, The other villages are numerous, 
the whole state being studded with them, containing from 500 to 
1500 or 2000 inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Dan- 
hiirtji JVindham, Haddani, and Tolland. The houses are generally 
built of wood, on a handsome plan, and are painted white ; which 
gives the country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This 
ejiterprising little state first set the example of making turnpike 
roads in New England, and these and other good roads are so 
abundant, that travelling is facilitated in all directions. There are 
a number of bridges in the state, some of them constructed at 
great expence, which are of great utility. 

The agriculture of the state is in a condition which speaks vo- 
lumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feudal system, and 
no law of primogeniture ; hence there are no overgrown estates on 
the one hand, and ^qw of those employed in agriculture are de- 
pressed by poverty on the other. The farms are generally from 
.50 to 5000 acres, cultivated by a hardy industrious race, whose 
labour is rcnvarded by the blessings of heaven in " peace, and 
health, and sweet content." But it is said, that all the sons of 
Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabundance of the 
learned professions, particularly in the law department, who keep 
the state embroiled in litigation. " God made man upright, but 
thev have sought out many inventions." — The produce of the state 
is wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large 
quantity, and some hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and 
fruit. The soil is well adapted to grazing, and vast qua^tities of 



CONNECTICUT. 101 

cheese and butter are made : much pork is cured ; cyder is al- 
so made in great plenty and perfection. 

The farmers of Connecticut, and their families, are gienerally 
dressed in cloth of their own manufacture, which is substantial 
and good j and there are considerable and very important manu- 
factures, on a lai'ger scale, throughout the state, viz. woollens, 
linens, cottons, leather of every description, hats, stockings, pa- 
per, wire, bells, soap, candles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen 
^nd stone ware, chaises, harness, &c. 

The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. 
The exports, in 1805, amounted to 1,443,729 dollars. They are 
principally to the West India islands, consisting of live stock, 
timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provisions. The imports consist of 
manufactured piece goods of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries. 

The population of Connecticut consists of farmers, mechanics, 
manufacturers, ministers of religion, instructors of youth, doctors 
of medicine, and lawyers. There are no idle people to be seen, 
although it is said that too many are engaged in the learned pro- 
fessions ; and Connecticut sends out a full proportion of luminar- 
ies annually, to enlighten other states. Education is upon an ex- 
cellent footing, and the school fund is more ample than that of 
any other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named Yale 
College^ has been already noticed, and academies have been esta- 
blished at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Norwich, Wind- 
ham, and Pomfret. The law directs that a grammar school shall 
be kept in every county town throughout the state ; but the great, 
popular, and permanent advantage on this branch, arises from the 
establishment of shools in every township, being an arrangement 
similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which produced 
similar effects — a general diffusion of knowledge, " steady habits," 
and sobriety of manners. In religion, the form of church go- 
vernment is generally congregational or presbyterian, but every 
other form may be freely exercised. The form of government is 
derived from the ancient charter; by which the legislative authori- 
ty is vested in a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or 
counsellors, and the representatives of the people, styled the 
General Assembly. They are divided into two branches, of 
which the governor, deputy governor, and assistants form one 
and the representatives the other : and no law can pass without the 
concurrence of both. The governor and assistants are chosi|uav» 



102 "TRAVELS IN 

nually, and the representatives, who must not exceed two for each 
town, are chosen twice each year. The suffrage is universal, 
every freeman who is of age having a vote, without I'fegard to 
property. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

HorsmecJi, — Harlem, — Ne-x York. 

J^EPTEMBER 6. This morning, at 3 o'clock,we took our seats in 
the stage. I was diverted by a dialogue between the two drivers, in 
which the word ^M(?55 0ccurcd so frequently, that I could hardly hear 
any thing else. " \g2iess this string's not long enough." " Oyes, Iguess 
it is," " O yes, IguessVW make it do." " There, — Igiiess you've fix- 
ed it." " Yes, I guess you guess right." Leaving Stanford we passed 
several creeks. The morning was raw and foggy. At the dawn of 
day we reached a considerable rising ground, called Horseneck, 
and we alighted, and walked up the hill, by a winding road. Here 
we were told a singular anecdote of Major Putnam. A part of the 
British' army were encamped not far from this hill, and the major 
went to the top of it, in a fog, to reconnoitre ; just as he reached the 
top, the fog cleared away, and he found himself close by a corps of 
British cavalry, who immediately pursued him. He clapped spurs 
to his horse, and ; not having time to keep the road, galloped right 
down the hill, and, strange to tell ! reached the plain unhurt ; and 
thus eluded his pursuers. A few miles from thence, we passed By- 
ram river, and entered the state of New York. 

The first township we came to in this state was Rye, containing 
about 1000 inhabitants. The soil appeared pretty good, but the 
face of the country is rough and stony. We continued our course 
^through East and West Chester, both considerable townships ; near 
the last is a manufacture of earthenware, said to be in a thriving 
state, The soil in this district seems to be poor and sandy ; but we 
were informed it was well calculated for sheep and cattle, the flocks 
of which were encreasing. 

Nine miles from New York, we passed into York Island, by ^ 
wooden bridge, at Plarlem ; and, continuing our course through 
the middle of the island, which abounds with numerous villas and 
pleasure-grounds, generally the property of the merchants of New 
York, we reached the city at ten o'clock. I was highly gratifie4 
\)y my tour to the New England states. 



NF.VV YORK. 103 

■ I continued in ^ew York, transacting various mercantile busi- 
ness, until the 25th ot September ; during which time I again called 
on Thomas Paine, in company with his friend, formerly mentioned. 
Paine was still at the house of Mrs. Palmer, but his leg had got 
much better, and he was in good spirits. News had arrived that 
morning that a peace had been concluded between France and Eng- 
land ; but Paine said he did not believe it, and again affirmed, that 
while the present form of government lasted in^ England, there 
would be no peace : the government was committed in a war sys- 
tem, and would prosecute it as long as they could command the 
means. He then turned up a newspaper, which had i-ecently been 
established at New York, and, after reading several paragraphs, 
he observed that he could not understand what the editor was driv- 
ing at. He pretended to be a great friend of Britain, and yet he 
was constantly writing against peace, and the best interests of the 
country ; and in place of being guided by the plain dictates of com- 
mon sense, he aimed at flowery embellished language, and glided 
away into the airy regions of speculative nonsense, more like a 
madman than the editor of a newspaper. After a good deal of ge- 
neral conversation, we took our leave. 

A few days after, his friend handed me a piece in MS., intended 
for the newspapers, and requested me to copy it, and keep the ori- 
ginal ; and as Paine has made a great noise in the world, I shall 
here insert it, as a rehc of an extraordinary political character, and 
as a very good specimen of the acuteness of his mind, and his turn 
for wit, at the advanced age of 70. 

" For the Citizen, 

" It must be an inconsolable affliction to poor Mr. 'a friends, 

if he has any, to hear that his insanity increases beyond all hopes 
of recovery. His case is truly pitiable : he works hard at the trad© 
of mischief -making ; but he is not a good hand at it, for the case is 
that the more he labours the more he is laughed at, and his malady 
increases with every laugh. 

" In his paper of Thursday, September 18th, the spirit of pro- 
phecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets astride of a 
cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the inhabitants of this 
lower world. 

" Speaking of the rumours of peace between France and Eng- 
land, he says, < we will not believe it till we sue it gazetted (meaning 



104 NEW YORK. 

in the London Gazette,) and then,' says h^, * \^e will aver that (he 
sun which dawns upon that event will be the darkest that ever rose 
since the transgression of our first parents brought sin into the world.* 
This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining darkness* 
But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sunshine or moonshine, 
are all alike to a lunatic. — He then goes on. * In a continuance,' 
says he, ' of war only, can Britain look for salvation. That star once 
extinguished, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of 

the creation.' — The devil it will ' And pray Mr. , will the 

moon shine darkness too ? and will all the stars twinkle darkness ? 
If that should be the case, you had better sell your press, and set 
up tallow-chandler : there will be more demand for candles than 
for nawspapers when those dark days come. 

" But, as you are a man that writes for a livelihood, and I sup- 
pose you find it hard work to rub on, I would advise you, as a 
friend, not to lay out all your cash upon candle-making ; for my 
opinion is, that whether England make peace or not, or whether 
she is conquered or not conquered, the sun will rise as glorious 
and shine as bright on that day as if no such trifling things had 
happened." 

It appeared in the sequel that Paine was correct in his opinion, 
and the editor was gratified in his wish — there was no peace. 



CHAPTER XX. 

New York. 

K. HIS interesting state is situated between 40° 33' and 45" north 
latitude, and 3° -tS' east, and 2°43' west longitude; its extreme 
length, from east to west, being 340, and extreme breadth, from 
north to south,^ 317 miles; but it is very irregular. The square 
contents amount to about 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres j 
being 1 8,000 square miles larger than Scotland. 

There is a vast variety in the face of the country. Long Island 
and Staten Island are situated at its southern extremity, and are in- 
teresting. The state is bounded by Connecticut on the east, New 
Jersey on the west, extending in breadth to the highlands, with an 
ngreeably uneven surface. From the highlands, about 50 miles a- 
bove New York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous ; and 



KEW YORK. 105 

the hills continue to the extremity of the state northward, and to 
Utica westward : from thence to its western extremity, nearly 300 
miles, there is a most elegant country, rich and well watered, having 
spurs of the Allegany mountains on the one side, and on the other 
the lakes Ontario and Erie, two of the finest sheets of water in the 
world. The lakes are so numerous that the bare mention of the 
names of the most important must suffice in this place. Besides the 
large lakes, there are LaJ{e Champlain, Lake Georgei Oneida^ Ono?i- 
dago, Skefieafeless, Owasca, Cayuga^ Seneca, Canandagua^ and Cha' 
taughque. The principal rivers are the Hudson, the . Mohaivkf the 
Oneida, and the Genesee. The Hudson rises in the mountains, above 
the 44'th degree of north latitude, pursues a south course about 250 
miles, and forms a junction with the East River at New York. This 
river is navigable for sea vessels through the mountains to Albany 
and Troy; and for smaller vessels a considerable way above Troy: 
the tide flows 165 miles up this river. The Mohavsk rises near O- 
neida Lake, and running a south-east course upwards of 100 miles, 
falls into the Hudson 8 miles above Albany : the navigation of this 
river is obstructed by the Cohoes falls, near its outlet, and the little 
falls about 70 miles above that ; but goods and produce are carried 
by land between Albany and Skencctady, 15 miles ; and there being 
^ canal round the little falls, the navigation is complete to the port- 
age near its source, .where it communicates by another canal "adtli 
Wood Creek, and from thence with Lake Ontario. Oneida River 
has its source in Oneida Lake, from whence it runs about 40 miles 
to Lake Ontario. It is navigable by boats to the falls, where there 
is ji portage, from whence it is again navigable to the lake, and 
thence through Wood Creek and the portage, to the Mohawk Ri- 
ver. This river is of great importance, as it forms part of the chain 
of conmiunication between the Hudson and the lakes ; and, through 
the medium of Seneca River, it may, in process of time, form also 
an important communication between Lake Ontario and the small- 
er, but very important lakes, in the interior of the country. Genesee 
Biver rises in the state of Pennsylvania, and running a northern 
course through the Genesee country nearly 100 miles, falls into 
Lake Ontario. The navigation of this river is obstructed by falls ; 
but it abounds with mill-scats, and has rich fertile banks. The 
great Bivcr St. Latircnce bounds the state on the north, to the east 
of Lake Ontario, and receives several important streams in that dis- 
trict: and on the west is the Niagara River, ihc communication 



106 NEW YORK. 

between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, on which are the JFalls of 
Niagara, one of the greatest wonders in the world. This river is 
navigable to within 9 miles of the falls ; and again, from 2 miles a- 
bove the falls, to Lake Erie. The portage round the falls is 10 miles ; 
and, were a canal cut, it would complete the navigation between 
the lakes, and open an inland navigation of greater extent than is 
to be found in the world. The head waters of the Allegany, Sus- 
quehan na, and Delaware Rivers, are in the southern part of this state. 

The state abounds with iron ore and lead ; copper and zinc have 
been found in various places. Silver has been found, but in no 
great quantity. Marble abounds, and is of an excellent quality. 
Freestone and slate are in plenty. Plaster of Paris is found in great 
variety, and is used with good effect as manure. Isinglass and sul- 
phur are common in many places : and coal has also been found, 
but in no great quantity. — The salt-springs at Onondago are very 
strong, and produce an immense quantity of that useful article. 
There are many sulphur-springs, and several air-springs, which last 
are probably the gas arising from the combustion of pit coal: there 
Js a medicinal spring at Lebanon, which affords a pleasant bath, at 
the temperature of 72", and is much frequented ; but the most re- 
markable springs in this state, or indeed in the United States, are 
those of Ballston and Saratoga. These waters are highly medici- 
nal, and are of great efficacy in dyspepsia and other complaints ; 
and are much frequented in the summer season. 

The soil, in such an extent of country, must be various. Tlie 
Bouthern and eastern part is a dry gravel, mixed with loam, and is 
not very rich; the mountainous part is pretty well adapted for 
grazing, and there are rich valleys on the rivers. The whole of 
the northern and western part is rich and fertile, except a small 
portion bordering on the state of Pennsylvania, which, however, 
is interspersed with fertile lands. 

The climate is also various. In that part which lies to the south of 
the highlands, it is remarkably changeable ; it experiences all the 
vicissitudes of heat and cold, and sometimes a change of 30 degrees 
in the course of 24 hours. Among the mountains, and along 
Lake Champlain, towards Canada, the winters are long and severe, 
and the summers are sometimes very sultry and hot. In the wes- 
tern district, the climate is more temperate, and tie winters are 
subject to a good deal of rain; but the whole country is healthy, 
the neighbourhood of ponds and undrained mora>s9S excepted. 



NEW YORK. 107 

The winter commences about Christmas, and ends with February ; 
but March and April are sometimes cold months. 

Captain Hudson, a Dutch navigator, discovered Hudson's 
River, in the year 1609, and about the year 1615, the Dutch took 
formal possession of the country, and formed a settlement at the 
mouth of Hudson's River, called New Amsterdam, and another 160 
miles up the river, called Fort Orange. In 1664;, Charles II. 
made a grant of the country to his brother, the duke of York, 
and an army of 3000 men was sent to take possession of it, which 
they easily accomplished, and changed the name of New Am- 
sterdam to New York, and Fort Orange to Albany, In I??*, 
New York took an active part in the revolutionary war, and sent 
four delegates to the general congress. The state constitution 
was framed in 1777, and revised, as it now stands, in 1801. The 
state sends two senators and 1 7 representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into 43 cpunties, and about 300 townships. 
The population in 1800 was 586,203, including 20,613 slaves; 
being about 1 1 to the square mile. 

This state has progressed rapidly ifl population, wealth, and int- 
provements. There are four incorporated cities, of which New 
York, already noticed, is the chief. The others are Albany^ 
Hudson, and Skenectpdyf 

Albany is the seat of government, apd contained, b} the cen- 
sus of 1800, about 7000 inhabitants; but they have since much in- 
creased. It is a plape of considerable trade, and fast rising into 
importance. 

Hudson is situated at the head of ship navigation, and, though 
only laid out in 1784', such has been the rapidity of its growth* 
that it contained, by the census of 1 800, nearly 3000 inhabitants. 
They have here a very considerable trade, aqd elegant packets to 
and from New York, 

^kenectady \s, a handsome, well-built city, pn the Mohawk river, 
16 miles ffom Albany, and, by the census of }800, contained 
5289 inhabitants. Id is a place of considerable trade, and has a 
bank, college, and three places for public worship. 

The other most important towns and villages are Xewburg, 
Poughkeepsie, Iroy, Lansinghurgh, and Waterjord, on the Hudson; 
Utica, Herkimer, and Rome, on the Mohawk ; and Skeneateless, 
Geneva, Canandagua, and Buffalo, to the westward. The houses 
are generally substantially built, and are a good deal similar to 



lOS NEW YORK. 

those in the New England states. The roads, bridges, and canals 
are numerous, and of great importance. 

-The agriculture of the state is far advanced. The staple com- 
modity is flour, of which avast quantity is made annually for ex- 
portation ; and the state raises all the other kinds of produce 
mentioned in the account of the New England states. 

The manufactures of the state are considerable, and increasing ; 
particularly the articles of glass, ashes, iron-ware of various dc- 
sci'iptions, leather of all kinds, hats, carriages, paper and print- 
ing, pottery ware, umbrellas, mathematical and musical instru- 
ments. The commerce of the state is exceedingly extended, and 
has been alluded to in the account of New York ; besides which, 
there is a great commerce on the lakes and the St. Lawrence, with 
Canada. 

The society in this state is very much mixed. The city and southern 
part of the state, and along the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, are 
mostly of Dutch, Scottish, and Irish extraction. To the west, 
the majority are New Englanders ; but the whiile harmonise and 
unite in this free country, and will soon form one mass of re- 
publicans. Education was, for a time. Considerably neglected; 
but it is now well attended to, considerable funds being appropri- 
ated to the support of it. There are several colleges in the state, 
and many academies : a taste for knowledge is increasing, and with 
it will increase the good sense of the community, and every useful art. 

The government of the state is vested in a governor, lieutenant- 
governor, senate, and house of representatives. The governor 
and lieutenant-governor are elected for three years ; the senators 
for four ; and the assembly-men are chosen annually. The neces- 
sary qualifications for the electoi's, ai'e six months residence in the 
state previous to the election ; the possession of a freehold of ^20 
value, or to have rented a tenement of the value of 40 bhillings 
yearly ; and to have been rated on the polls, and actually paid 
taxes to the state. 

The funds of this state are reported to be in a most flourishing 
situation ; and such is the increase in wealth and population, that 
it is considered one of the most important states in the union. 



NEW JERSEY. 109 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Jersey^ — Brunswick, — Princetown^ — Trenton. 

W EDNESDAY, September 34. Having finished my business 
in New York, I took leave of my friends, and crossed Hudson's 
river, at 8 o'clock ni the morning. The day was dull and cloudy, 
so that I could see but little; but being quite in the humour for 
making inquiries regarding this extensive country, I took my 
place on the fore-seat beside the driver. It surprised me to ob- 
serve how well informed this class of people are in America. 
In my journey through the New England states, I was highly 
gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they made to 
my questions ; and I resolved to follow the same plan of obtaining 
information throughout my tour. 

We took our departure at 9 o'clock, from a little town called 
Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York, and travel- 
led a few miles through a counti-y rather stony and sandy, to 
Bergen, a small village, having a church, and said to be inhabited 
mostly by Dutch people. A little further on, we reached Hack- 
ensack river, which we passed by atoll-bridge, and immediately 
entered into a very extensive swamp, through which the r»ad is 
cut at a considerable expence. This swamp is said to be 50 miles 
long, and about four broad, and abounds with grass of a very 
strong kind, but it must be difficult to gather it. W'^e saw, how- 
ever, that it had been all cut during the summer. We were much 
molested with musquetoes of a very large size, during our pas-.- 
sage through it ; soon after which we passed tiie Passaic river, 
and arrived at Newark, nine miles from New York. 

Hackensack river rises in New York state, and running a south- 
east cour.-e, falls into Newark bay, a little below where we crossed 
it. It is navigable 15 miles up the country. Passaic river rises 
in the intei'ior of the country, and running upwards of 50 miles, 
by a very winding couise, falls into Newark bay. It; is naviga- 
ble about 10 miles; and, about 14 miles from its outlet, there are 
falls on it of 70 feet perpendicular, which form one of the 
greatest curiosities in the state, and constitute a fuie situation for 
mill-seats, at which a cotton manufactory has been recently es- 
tablished. 



110 TRAVELS IN 

Newark is « beautiful village, regularly laid out in broad streets, 
on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The pub- 
lic buildings are two places for public worship, a court-house, and 
academy. Considerable manufactures are carried on here, par- 
ticularly of leather. The inhabitants have likewise a pretty exten- 
sive inland trade ; and have a bank to facilitate their commer- 
cial operations. The country is well cultivated in the neighbour- 
hood, and Newark is remarkable for the goodness of its cyder, 
of which a large quantity is made annually. 

Six miles beyond Newark is Elizabethtown, containing two 
churches and an academy. It is a pretty little place, and the land 
in its neighbourhood is fertile, and well cultivated. 

Ten miles from thence, through a pretty fertile country, we 
reached WoodbridgCi a gmall village, where we stopped for dinner, 
at 1 o'clock. The day wa« rainy and disagreeable, so that there 
was no great pleasure in viewing the country ; and as to amuse- 
ment in the stage, 1 could get none, for there was a surly-looking 
man from Charleston, who engrossed all the conversation, and 
his whole talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody knew 
any thing of the matter but himself. 

At half-past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36 miles 
from New York, where we crossed the Rariton River, by a wood- 
en bridge. This is one of the most considerable rivers in New 
Jersey. It rises about 30 mjles above this, and, running a south- 
east course, falls into Rariton Bay at Amboy. It is pavigable to 
this place, by which means a great trade is carried on with New York- 

Brunswick is an incorporated city, containing about 3000 in- 
habitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is not very hand- 
some, but seems to be improving. It was origiqaHy settled most- 
ly by Dutch people, and there are three Dutch churches. The 
other public buildings, worthy of notice, are the Court- House and 
Academy ; which last is said to be a very thriving seminary. Tlie 
lands in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky ; but we were 
informed that they raised pretty good crops, particularly of grass, 
which had, throughout the whole of this district, flourished very 
much of late, in consequence of the application of plaster of Paris. 

The afternoon continued wet, and the road was very bad, 
through a level country, about 14 miles, when we passed a small 
place called Kingston^ from whence the road is much improved, 
and proceeds through a fine countrj', and by an easy ascent, about 



NEW JERSF.Y, 1 I 1 

three miles to Princeton., which we reached a little after dark. We 
should have stopped here for the luVht ; but there was a Commence* 
meni ball at the stage-house, and we were informed that we must 
move on to Trenton, albeit the night was wet and dark, and we 
were sufficiently tired. I was mortified at this decision, for I wish- 
ed very much to see the ball. 

During the short time we stopped, I went into the ball-room, 
where the dance was going on, and almost the first object that 
saluted my eyes, was Miss Gibbons, a dashing belle from Savannah. 
I thought myself at home. But I can't say I was so much pleased 
with the appearance of the " fair ones," as I was in Yankee-land. 
There was a great number ol " elegant forms," and " handsome 
faces ;" but the dress was, generally speaking, showy, not neat — 
the indication of a bad taste ; and the most of them had large, 
three inch diameter sort of rings in their ears, called by some of th« 
students, not inaptly, " Cupid's chariot wheels." Nor did the 
dancing please me. The music was a French cotillion, to which 
they " sprawled and sprauchled" and le tout ensemble was the very 
contrast to those soul-inspiring reels and strathspeys which animate 
cur Scots girls, and set them in motion, " their feet as pat to the 
music as its echo." I entered into conversation with some of the 
students and young ladies who were by-standers, who answered my 
enquiries with much affability ; and I left the room with regret 
when I was called to take my passage in the stage. 

Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see nothing at that 
late hour, but I learned that it is handsomely situated on elevated 
ground, from whence there is a very fine view, through a well cul- 
tivated adjoining country. The number of dwelling-houses is a- 
bout 1 00, and the college is reputed one of the best seminaries in the 
United States. 

Having got a number of the students as passengers, the stage was 
crowded ; and, on our way to Trenton, it broke down by one of the 
braces giving way. It is customary in Britain to provide against 
an accident of this kind, by having an iron chain to supply the place 
of the brace; and the contrivance being a very simple one, I 
thought it would have been adopted here ; but to my surprise there 
was no chain, and the defect was supplied by breaking down an ho- 
nest man's fence, and thrusting a rail under the carriage, while the 
passengers stood almost up to tlie ancles in the mud, holding it up. 
Being fixed in this way, we jolted on to 'iVenton, which we rcach<id 
near 12 o'clock atjiight. 



113 NEW JERSEY. 

Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and is situated on the Del- 
aware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and 66 from New York. 
It is a handsome little town, containing about 200 houses. The 
public buildings are the state-house, a court-hou.«e, an episcopal 
church, a presbyterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and me- 
thodist meeting-house. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Netv Jersey 

Is situated between Sg'' and 4-1° 20' north latitude, and 1^ 30' 
and 3*^ 5' east longitude. Its length is 145 miles, and its breadth 
60. It contains 7920 square miles, being 5,068,800 acres. 

The state extends along the sea-coast upwards of 100 miles, 
which, with the exception of the highlands of Never Sink, is low 
and sandy ; but it is more elevated and more diversified towards the 
interior. The northern part swells out into high lands, and, to- 
wards the extremity of the state, there arc considerable mountains. 
The principal rivers have been already notieed, and there are no o- 
ther of any note, though small streams are numerous, and supply 
the state abundantly with mill-seats. 

The state abounds with minerals ; producing iron, lead, copper, 
gypsum, coal, and slate ; and there are several useful clays and 
ochres. 

About one-fourth part of the state is sandy and barren; there are in 
the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and cedar swamps. Large 
tracts of salt meadow run along Delaware bay, and the rivers which 
fall into the Atlantic. Along the rivers and small streams in the 
interior of the state there is much good land ; and the hilly district 
abounds with fertile valleys. 

The climate is strikingly different in the different sections of the 
state. In the northern part there is clear settled weather, and the 
winters are excessively cold, but the whole is very healthy : in the 
southern part, particularly towards the extremity, the climate ap- 
proaches to that of the southern states, and is subject to very sud- 
den changes. 

New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1618; but falling 
into the hands of the English, it was granted, along with New 
York, by Charles II., to his brother, the Duke of York. It was a- 



KEW JERSEY* 113 

mong the firsf states that acceded to the union, and' sent fived^le- 
gates to congress, in 1774. It bore a very active part in the con- 
test for independence, and was long the theatre of war, in which it 
suffered great losses and privations. It now sends two senators and 
six representatives to the congress of the United States. 

The state is divided into 13 counties and 100 townsliips, and 
contains 211,149 inhabitants, including 12,422 slaves; being uj)- 
wards of 26 persons to the square mile. 

The princijial towns have been already mentioned, besides which 
there are Burlivgton and Bordentowii, two considerable places on 
the Delaware, and Salem and Patterson^ in the interior ; which last 
is a manufacturing town, at the falls of Passaic, already noticed, and 
is rising fast into importance. The country is pretty well improved 
by thriving farms, and the roads and bridges are numerous. I did 
not hear of any canals, but I learned there was one projected across 
the country from Brunswick to Trenton, which, if carried into ef- 
fect, will certainly be a great improvement, as it will complete the 
inland navigation between New York and Philadelphia. 

New Jersey is settled with frugal industrious farmers. The pro- 
duce of the state is wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian com, potatoes, 
and other vegetables, and a vast quantity of fruit ; and butter and 
cheese are made in great quantites, for the supply of the New York 
and Philadelphia markets. 

The inhabitants of New Jei-sey, except in the towns, make the 
greater part of their clothing, and there are several manufactories 
of cottons and woollens, on a large scale. Of iron, the manufactures 
are very extensive, and the quantity is considerable of leather, glass, 
and paper. The state has hardly any foreign commerce, nearly 
the whole being carried on through the medium of New York and 
Philadelphia. The principal sea-port is Amboy, but the direct ex- 
ports, annually, amount to only a few thousand dollars. The state 
is supplied with foreign goods through tlie large cities already 
mentioned. 

The general dissemination of knowledge through the state has 
not been attended to according to its importance. There are nu- 
merous seminaries for the higher branches of literature ; but the 
state seems defective in common schools. I keep the parish schools 
in Scotland constantly in my mind, and I regret when the systejn 
for the instruction of the mass of the people does not come up to 
that standard. 



114 



TRAVELS IN 



The government of this state is vested in a governor, legislative 
council, and general assembly. The council consists of one 
member, and the assembly of three members, from each county, 
chosen annually by the people. The governor is chosen annually 
by the council and assembly. The qualification for a voter is 
£. 50. The state is prospering, and increasing in population and 
wealth. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Trenton bridge^ — Bristol, — Philadelphia, 

M. HURSDAY, September 25th, we set out from Trenton, at 
6 o'clock in the morning, and crossed the river Delaware by Tren- 
ton bridge. This bridge was finished in February last, and be- 
ing one of the most elegant in the United States, and different in 
construction from any I have seen before, it merits a particular 
description. It consists of five arches of 1 94 feet span each, built 
of white pine, and supported on strong stone piers; the whole 
length is 970 feet ; the breadth 36. The arches are elevated over 
head by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage-way, is 
suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the whole length of 
the bridge. Above the top of the arches the roof is covered in, 
so as to secure the whole from the weather ; and the carriage-way 
is divided into two sections, each of which is apropriated to tra- 
vellers in one direction. At the entrance, passengers are directed 
to take the road on the right hand. Upon the whole, this is a 
very elegant piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1804, 
and is the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr. 

The Delaware is a noble river. Its head waters are in New 
York state, from whence it pursues a south-east course, forming 
the boundary between that state and Pennsylvania, about 60 
miles, and thence forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and 
New Jersey, upwards of 100 more to this place, where there are 
falls, but of no great height. Froni hence it increases in breadth, 
durmT a course of 36 n)ile&, to PhiladelphiD, where it is a mile 
broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increases, and, 40 
miles below Philadelphia, at Newcastle, it is two miles broad, 
thence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and falls into the At- 



PENNSYLVANIA. 1 1 5 

lantic ocean 70 miles below Newcastle, its outlet being 25 miles 
wide. It is navigable for vessels of any burden to Philadelphia. ; 
for sloops and other small craft to Trenton, where it is obstruct- 
ed by the falls ; but above them it is navigable for boats upwards 
of 100 miles. 

Immediately after passing this river we were in the state of 
Pennsylvania ; and among the first houses that attracted my no- 
tice was Morrisville, tlie seat of general Moreau. It is a fin« 
house, with ekgant grounds about it ; and I have no doubt but 
the general finds it a happy retreat from the turbulent scenes of 
Europe. I could not pass this place without a great variety of 
reflections. General Moreau bore an active part in the French 
revolution, and supported a character in arms, rivalled only by 
that of Bonaparte himself. He fought for republican principles, 
and braved eyery danger to establish them in his native land. 
His reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and he was in 
the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had served 
to establish, when, by a sudden transition of fortune, that republic 
vanished from the earth : his great rival in arms was elevated to 
a throne ; and he was exiled to the banks of the Delaware, But 
Jiappy, in my mind, is he >vho is thus exiledi A republican finds 
here a republic, and the only republic on the face of the earth that 
jBver deserved the name : where all are under the protection of 
equal laws ; of laws made by themselves : where every mail ^' sits 
under his vine, and under his fig-tree, and none to make him 
afraid;" and where, far removed from the turbulence and din of 
xnaddened Europe, he can enjoy " health, and peace, and s\Yeet 
content." 

Front Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to Bristol. The 
road was good, and passes partly by the river side, through a 
level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The banks of the river 
are very beautiful, and adorned with many elegant villas. Bristol 
is a handsome village, on the banks of the river, and contains 
probably 100 houses, many of them elegant. A few miles beyond 
Bristol we passed a considerable creek, and continuing our course 
near the river side, through a very fine country, we passed through 
Frankjhrd, five miles from Philadelphia, This is an elegant vil- 
lage, contaiiiing about lOQ hoiises, and, is a place of considerable ^ 
resort fq? the inhabitants of Philadelphia in the summer season. 
A little beyond this we passed a rising ground, called Prospect 



116 TRAVELS IN 

Hill, where 'we had the firat view of Philadelphia. The road 
here is broad, and well metalled with broken stones, which rea- 
ders travelling pretty rough, but it is good upon the whole. The 
country is now rich and level, abounding in gardens and orchards; 
and exhibits every appearance of the approach to a great city. 
On entering the city, 1 was quite delighted with the regularity of 
the streets, and beauty of the buildings. The stage drove nearly 
a mile through the city, and I took up my residence at the Man- 
sion-House Hotel, in Third-street. 



CHAPTER XXiy. 

PhiladelpJ^ia, 

This city is situated between the Delaware and Schuylkill 
tivers, about four miles above their junction. It is laid out on 
an elegant plan, with streets crossing one another at right angles, 
iand extends betwefen the two rivers, being upwards of two miles 
in length, from east to west, and a little more than one mile 
in breadtli. There are large suburbs to the north and south, on 
the Delaware river, called the Northern Liberties, Kensington, 
and Southwark; and these extend upwards of a mile to the north, 
and half a mile south of the city, making the extreme length on 
the Delaware river nearly three miles. But the city is closely 
built to the westward only about a mile ; the buildings on the 
remaining part, towards the Schuylkill, being very thinly scatter- 
ed. It is howevei" rapidly filling up in that direction. High or 
Market-street is about 100 feet broad, and running the whole 
l«igthofthe city, is terminated by the Schuylkill bridge to the 
west. A street of equal breadth, called Broad-street, crosses i{ 
in the middle, where there is a large area, called Centre-Square, 
on which the water-works are built. The streets running pa- 
rallel to High-street are named after various trees said to have 
been found on the ground on which they are laid out. To the 
north, are Mulberry, Sassafras, and Vme ,- to the south, C/iesmif, 
tValnut, Locust, Spruce, Pine, and Cedar. The cross streets are 
numbered according to situation from the rivers, thus. Front, 
Second, Third, and so on, to Thirteenth, on the Delaware side; 
find fromTront to Eighth, on the Schuylkill aide. Mulberry-. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 117 

street is 60 feet wide, and all the other streets are 50. It was 
the intention of the benevolent projector of the city that Front- 
street, on the Delaware, should have been the eastern boundary, 
and that the space between that and the river should have beeiT 
^converted into public ground, useful and ornamental to the city ; 
but this elegant plan has given way to the avidity for commer- 
cial gain, and this spot is now thickly built up with whai'ves, 
warehouses, and dwelling-houses ; which form a street o!i the low 
ground along the margin of the river, called Water-street. In 
the original plan there were a great number of public squares, 
but several of ihem have also been infringed upon, though there 
jire still many left, which are very ornamental to the city. 

This city contained, by the census -of 1800, 81,000 inhabitants, 
.«nd, as there has been a great increase since, they are now es- 
timated at upwards of 90,000 ;* and the buildings at upwards of 
H,000. 

The city is composed almost wholly of brick houses, covered 
with slate, or shingles; and they are generally ornamented with 
marble steps, with soles and lintels for the doors and windows ; 
which form an elegant contrast with the brick, and add much to 
the beauty of the buildings. Some of the public buildings are 
wholly composed of marble, and others are much ornamented 
with it, which gives the city an elegant and even magnificent ap- 
pearance. 

The public buildings are very numerous. The bare mention 
of a few of them will be sufficient to convey an idea of the im- 
portance of this city. The State-House, with the Court- Houses 
and Philosophical Hall adjoining, thp Dispensary, Aims-House, 
Hospital, Jail, Carpenter's Hall, College, Academy, Library, 
two theatres, four banks, five quaker meeting-houses, six presby- 
terian churches, three episcopal churches, four Roman catholic 
churches, three methodist cliurches, and one each ibr German 
Calvinists, German Lutherans, Swedish L\itheraus, Moiiavia«>s, 
baptists, Jews, and universalists.f 

The State- House is remarkakle as hmig the pjace from whence 
the independence of the United States was first proclaimed ; and 
the legislature of the Uuited States held their meetings in the 
adjoining buildings, while Philadelphia was the seat of the gene* 

•■ By tlie census of ISIO, die city and country contaiu 111,210. 
f A uniUriaiichurch is new ('181ii)buTlding'. 



1 18 TRAVELS TK 

ral government. When the legislature of Pennsylvania continu- 
ed at Philadelphia, they licld their meetings in the State-House ; 
but the seat of government has been removed to Lancaster, and 
that building now contains Peale's Museum. 

There are three market-houses in the city, the principal of 
wliich is in High-street. It is a very handsome building, about 
a quarter of a mile in length, and is well suplied with provisions. 
The price of provisions is somewhat cheaper than in New York. 
Beef, mutton, and veal may be quoted at from 6 to 8 cents per 
pound, and, generally speaking, all other articles of domestic 
production may be quoted as one-fifth cheaj^er than in the latter 
city. 

The manufactures of this city are rising into great importance. 
The principal are leather of every description, a great variety of 
wood and iron work, ships, ropes, fermented and distilled liquors, 
earthenware, tin plate, hats, stockings, and a vast variety of cloths 
of various descriptions. The printing business is better establish- 
ed here than in any other place on the continent, and gives em- 
ployment to a great number of paper-mills, and all classes con- 
nected with the book-trade : printers, type-founders, engravers, 
bookbinders, and booksellers and stationers. 

The whole export trade of the state is carried on through this 
city. The exports are grain, flour, and provisions, flaxseed, 
timber, various iron utensils, cordage, bark, skins, hosiery, gun- 
powder, ashes, candles, cyder, &c. The imports consist of 
British manufactures to a great amount. West India produce, 
India goods, China produce, &c. The exports of the state, in 
1805, amounted to 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,240 dollars 
was the produce of the state; and the imports may be reckoned 
at considerably more, as Philadelphia supplies the inhabitants of 
an immense back country with manufactured goods, who find an 
outlet for their produce by another channel, and remit in domes- 
tic produce or specie, neither of which is exhibited in the custom- 
house returns. 

This city is under great obligations to the quakcrs, who have 
given a tone to the manners of the people, different from what 
is to be found in most other places of equal extent. They are in- 
dustrious and sober ; and, though sufficiently commercial, they 
do not conduct their business in the same dashing style which is 
done by some commercial cities ; but confine thiemselves within 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



119 



bounds, and secure what they gain. Education is on an excellent 
footing : besides the larger seminaries already noticed, there are 
numerous academies and schools throughout the city. The arts 
and sciences have been long cultivated. A Philosophical Society 
was established in the year 1769, and they have published several 
volumes of their transactions. The Library Company was esta- 
blished as early as the year 1731. — The other societies of greatest 
importance are the College of Physicians, instituted for the purpose 
of promoting medical, anatomical, and chemical knowledge; the 
Pennsylvanian Society for promoting the Abolition of Slavery, and 
the relief of free Negroes unlawfully held in bondage ; the Pennsyl- 
vania Academy of Fine Arts ; the Agricultural Society ; Premium 
Society ; a Society for alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons ; 
Humane Society ; Marine Benevolent Society ; St. Andrew's So- 
ciety ; Scots I'histle Society ; St. Patrick's Society ; Hibernian So- 
ciety ; St. George's Society ; Welsh Society ; French Benevolent 
Society ; German Society. The Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania is 
established here, and there are 15 or 16 lodges of free-masons. 

The police of the city is said to be better regulated than that of 
any other on the continent. It appears to be much better than 
New York. There are public scavengers, who clean the streets at 
stated times, and the side pavements are generally washed every 
morning. These are broad, and generally well paved with brick, 
and, the streets being lined with rows of treees, a walk through 
the city in a summer morning is delightful. The city is elevated 
50 or 60 feet above the river, in consequence of which thei'e is an 
ample descent for the water; and the streets are well supplied 
with common sewers, which serve to carry off all the filth ; and 
they are kept sweet by the supply of fresh water from the water- 
works, which is constantly pouring into them from every part of 
the city. This supply of water also keeps the streets pure by 
running along the gutters, so that almost every street has a little 
stream on each side of it; and this circumstance, though ap- 
parently trivial, is probably of more importance than is generally 
imagined. 

They have here, as well as in New York, adopted the plan of 
sinking necessaries; but I was informed tliat those in Philadelphia 
must be regularly cleaned, and I did not observe the smell to be 
near so offensive jus at New York : both cities, however, in my 



120 



TRAVELS IN 



opinion, would admit of great improvement in this important 
branch of police.* 

The inhabitants generally have fresh complexioiis, the indi- 
cation of temperance and health. Their dre&s and manners are 
pretty much assimilated to those of New York, although there 
is a considerable sprinkling of the quakor habits diffused through 
the city, which may at first view, to a stranger, appear more for- 
bidding and austere ; but, on the other hand, the attention they 
do pay, being the result of consideration, may probably be mere 
ancere, and their friendship of a kind that will wear well. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Philadelphia^ — Water-txiorhs, — State Prison, — Lihrar^^ — Musewrif 
— Falls of Pehuylkill. 

JL HE two first days of my stay in Philadelphia Were wet and 
Stormy, so that I could see but little. I took a ride, in company 
with a friend, to the floating bridge on the Schuylkill river, near 
its junction with the Delaware. The river is here about 300 yards 
broad, and the country between it and Philadelphia is level, rich, 
and well cultivated. 

On the 27th, I went to see the water-works. The building 
which contains the reservoir is in the Centre- Sciuarc, being the 
most elevated ground in the city. It occupies a square of 60 feet ; 
from the middle there is a circular tower, 4-0 feet in diameter, 
and 60 feet high, which contains the reservoir ; and this tower is 
terminated by a dome, which gives it a very handsome appearance. 
The water is conveyed to this building from the Schuylkill, a dis- 
tance of nearly a mile, through a circular brick tunnel, of six 

• Sunk necessaries are, I believe, coniition throughout the United Statos .md 
liavc, at first view, the appearance of contributing to cleanliness, as they arc deposi- 
tories under ground for every kind of filth. Eiit it is to be observed, that the filth 
collected in theni is constantly generating a most ofFensive and perniciou'* gas, which 
mingles with the atim)spherc, is breathed every day by the inhabitants of large cities^ 
ftnd must contribute to render them unhealthy. Would it not be wise to pi-event this? 
There is no way of doing it, I apprehend, but by constructing necessaries on a plan 
that they may be cleaned once a week or ofttner, and have thi-, and all other filth 
deposited in dung-hills in the country, from whence it may betaken to manure th? 
ground. In some cities that liave come under my observation, the price obtainetl far 
the manure, is more than equal to the expence of keeping them clean. 



PEMNSYLVANIA. 121 

feet diameter, having a fall of six inches toward the Schiiylkill. 
Tlie water is received from the Schuylkill into a substantial basin 
and canal, and from thence is raised by a steam-engine to the level 
of the aqueduct, which conveys it to the Centre- Square. It is 
there received into another basin, and thence, by another steam- 
engine, is elevated to the circular tower, from whence it issues 
through wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city. 

The whole expence of the works was about 150,000 dollars 
(ri£.33,750 sterling.) The work was undertaken by the corporation, 
who raised the funds partly by a tax, and partly by loan, allow- 
ing the subscribers to the loan six per cent, interest for their money, 
and the use of the water free for three years, for every 100 dollars 
subscribed. 

The city is supplied with water by contract, and the contrac- 
tor is obliged to supply three millions of gallons per day if requir- 
ed. The annual expense is six thousand dollars for one million of 
gallons per day, and for any additional quantity, up to two millions, 
the expense is at the rate of half that sum. The engine is 40 horse 
power, and can raise, if necessary, four millions and a half of gallons 
per day ; so that the supply must be abundant for every purpose. 

The water is soft and good ; but it is not filtered, and is, of 
course, sometimes muddy, though never so much so as to render it 
unfit for use ; and it is always wholesome. It is of great importance 
to these works that they are the property of the public, and not sub- 
ject to individual speculation, in consequence of which the supply 
is liberal, and there are fountains in every street, to which the whole 
public have access. The water can be used for watering the streets, 
or extinguishing fires, as often as may be necessary ; while every 
householder, by paying a reasonable compensation, can have a hy- 
drant in any part of liis premises that he pleases, even to the attic 
story. In short, this water is a great luxury, and is, in my opinion, 
of incalculable advantage to the health, as it certainly is to the con- 
venience and comfort of tlie community. 

The supply of cities with water is a subject of great importance; 
and it is to be hoped that the inhabitants of other places in the United 
States will profit by the laudable example set them by the citizens 
of Philadelphia, and the happy effects which have resulted from it. 
The power of the steam-engine, properly applicti, can send water 
to any city, and cities are generally sufficiently opulent to bear the 
expense. All that is wanting is a proper plan, put in motion by 

16 



J 22 TRAVELS IN 

some of the leatling men. On this branch I have to notice that a 
great saving can be made from the application of the forcing pump, 
by which means the water can be conveyed to any reasonable height 
and dist jice, by one engine. The conductor must, in that case, 
be constructed of metallic tubes, which can be made of any diame- 
ter, according to the supply of water wanted ; and they must be 
furnished with valves, to prevent the reaction of the water. 

I shall also notice in this place that filtration of the water is a 
great improvement, and it can be easily done, to any extent what- 
ever, by the application of a plan, the invention of a very ingenious 
mechanic in Scotland, which I shall here communicate. 

I shall dt'scribe it from the model which I saw ; the application 
to any scale is easy. The model consisted of a cask, in which was 
inserted a false bottom, about three inches above the real bottom ; 
the false bottom was perforated with small holes, and in the middle 
was a tube, elevated a little above the top of the cask, and which 
formed a communication through the false bottom to the space be- 
low : the cask was filled with gravel of a proper kind for filtration. 
The water was conveyed through the tube into the space between 
the two bottoms, where it deposited the greater part of its sediment, 
and rising upwards through the gravel, on the principle of a spring, 
ran over the top of the cask, pure and transparent. The effect was 
as complete as could be imagined. The water that he used was 
very muddy, and was, by this simple contrivance, rendered perfect- 
ly pure; the contrast being so great, that when it was exhibited in 
the different states in clear wine-glasses, the one, to use the invent- 
or's expression, was like punch, the other like pure spirits. 

He informed me that the gravel answered better at the time I 
viewed it than it did at first, probably in consequence of the mud 
already deposited attracting that in the water. He had not used it 
long enough to ascertain the period at which it would get too much 
choaked up by the mud ; but he had a contrivance to obviate the 
effect of it, equally simple and efficacious with all the rest. It con- 
sisted in opening a stop-cock below, and letting the water filter 
downwards, by which means it would wash all the sediment along 
with it. 

I have seen different filters, some of them upwards, some down- 
wards, and some lateral ; but I never saw any so simple and so 
complete as this. 

The best mode of applying the plan upon a large scale would, I 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



123 



think, be this: to have a reservoir of from 10 to 20 feet deep, and 
of any dimensions that might be wanted for the purpose intended ; 
have it Hned and bedded with hewn stone, and divided into three 
apartments ; let one of these receive the water, where it will deposite 
its sediment; from thence let it run into the second, containing the 
filter ; and from thence be conveyed into the third, clear for use. 

It is to be observed that the first of these ^artments must be e- 
levated a little above the second, and the second above the third ; 
and the elevation may be great or small, according to the rate at 
which the water is required to circulate from the one (o the other. 
From the Water-works I went, accompanied by a friend, to see 
the State Prison. I was introduced to one of the inspectors, who 
was also one of the founders of the institution. He accompanied 
us, and explained the whole system very much to my satisfaction. 
This benevolent institution owes its origin to the enlightened ci- 
tizens of Philadelphia. Its object is to receive {.he vicious, and, if 
possible, to reclaim them to virtue ; and is an admirable constrast 
to the sanguinary punishments of old governments, who, for even 
pecuniary offences, send them off to the other world to be reclaim- 
ed there. This institution dpes not admit offenders till after con- 
viction, when they are received from the different parts of the state. 
It is hence called the State-Prison- When a criminal is received, 
his name is put upon record, or, to use a commercial idea, he be- 
comes a partner in the concern, and an account is accordingly rais- 
ed for him in the books. Inquiry is theii made what he can do; 
if he can work at any trade, he is taken to the apartment where that 
branch is carried on, and has his task assigned him. If he can work 
at no trade he is sent to saw marble. As a stimulus to industry, 
the convicts get credit in the books for the proceeds of their labour, 
and are debited with the expense of their board and clothing, wln'ch 
however is not very expensive, as every thing is conducted upon 
an economical plan, and when they are released, should their earn- 
ings be more than theexpence of iT^aintenance, the balance is paid 
to them. 

Almost every trade is carried on in the prison ; and the institu- 
tion is so organized that every necessary of life is attended to by 
the convicts themselves i baking, cooking, scrubbing the rooms, 
and so on ; and every thing is kept remarkably clean. The food 
is wholesome and nutritive, consisting of Indian meal, bread, and 
meat. The drink is molasses and water ; and no spirituous liquors 
are admitted within the walls of the prison. 



124 TRAVELS IN 

There is a separate apai'tment for the reception of female con- 
victs, where the various parts of female labour are carried on, and 
It is otherwise under the same system of management as that for 
the males. 

I visited every apartment, and was highly pleased with the order 
and economy of the whole establishment. In the course of our vi- 
sit, one of the convicts came up to our conductor, and solicited 
very strongly for his recommendation in his favour. Upon mak- 
ing enquiry what he meant by this, I was informed, that, as the ob- 
ject is purely to protect society from the inroads of the vicious, and 
to reclaim the vicious to civilized lite, the governor has the power 
ofmitigating the punishment, and of pardoning the offenders, upon 
receiving satisfactory evidence that the applicant is fit for civil so- 
ciety ; and the best evidence being the opinion of the inspectors 
of the prison, the criminals are, of course, anxious to procure it in 
their favour. This is a very happy stimulus to good behaviour. 
Our conductor observed that it was a very sacred trust, and to be 
used with great caution. He did not think this chap was yet ripe 
tor a release, — he must wait a little. 

The whole institution is under the direction of competent man- 
agers ; and, to insure proper discipline, there is a gradation of 
punishments within the prison, consisting chiefly of solitary con- 
finement in cells. 

I notice this subject particularly, because it is, so far as I know, 
of pure Amei'ican origin, and is happily adapted to the genius of 
the government of the country, mild, just, and merciful. Some of 
the other states already noticed, have imitated the example of Penn- 
sylvania ; and I was informed that the plan was likely to be gene- 
rally adopted throughout the Union. 

We next visited the Library, the account of which I shall trans- 
cribe from the Continuation of the Life of Dr. Franklin. 

" The promotion of literature had been little attended to in Penn- 
sylvania. Most of the inhabitants, were too much immersed in bu- 
siness to think of scientific pursuits ; and those few whose inclina- 
tions led them to study, found it difficult to gratify them, from the 
want of sufficiently large libraries. Li such circumstances the estab- 
lishment of a public library \vas an important event. This was first 
set on foot by FrankUn, about the year 1731. Fifty persons sub- 
scribed forty shillings each, and agreed to pay ten shillings annu- 
ally. The number increased, and, in 1742, the company was 



PENNSYLVANIA. 123 

incorporated by the name of ' The Library Company of Phila- 
delphia.' Several ojiher companies were formed in this city, in 
imitation of it ; and these were all, at length, united with the 
Library Company of Philadelphia, which thus received a con- 
isiderable accession of books and property. It now contains about 
:8000 volumes on all subjects, a philosophical apparatus, and a 
good beginning towards a collection of natural and artificial cu- 
riosities, besides landed property of considerable value. The com- 
pany have lately built an elegant house in Fifth-street, in the 
front of which will be a marble statue of their founder, Benja- 
min Franklin.. 

" This institution Was greatly encouraged by the friends of 
literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn family 
distinguished themselves by their donations. — Among the earliest 
friends of this institution must be mentioned the late Peter Col- 
linson, the friend and correspondent of Dr. Franklin. He not 
only made considerable presents himself, and obtained many 
others from his friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage the 
business of the company in London, recommending books, pur- 
<chasing ayid shipping them. His extensive knowledge, and zeal 
for the promotion of science, enabled him to execute this impor- 
tant trust with the greatest advantage ; and he continued to per- 
form these services for more than 30 years, and uniformly refused 
to accept of any compensation. During this time, he communi- 
cated to the director's every information relative to improvements 
^and discoveries in arts, agriculture, and philosophy. 

" The beneficial influence of this institution was soon evident. 
The cheapness of the terms rendered it accessible to every one. 
Its advantages were not confined to the opulent. The citizens in 
the middle and lower walks of life were equally partakers of them. 
Hence a degree of information was extended among all classes of 
the people, which is very unusual in other places. The example 
was soon followed. Libraries were established in various places, 
and they are now become very numerous in the United States, 
particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be hoped that they will be 
still more widely extended, and that information will be every 
where increased. This will be the best security for maintaining 
our liberties. A nation of well-informed men, who have been 
taught to know and prize the rights which God has given them, 
cannot be enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny 



126 TRAVELS IN 

reigns. It flies before the light of science. Let the citizens of 
America, then, encourage institutions calculated to diffuse know- 
ledge amongst the people; and among these, public libraries 
are not the least important." 

The library has been since removed to the building alluded to 
in the above extract. It is elegant and commodious, and has a 
statue of Franklin in front, the donation of the late Mr. Bing- 
ham. The library now consists of more than 14,000 volumes, in 
all the various departments of literature. It is divided into shares 
of 40 dollars each; but the number is unlimited. The subscribers 
are at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of the share, 
each subscriber pays two dollars annually, to the support of the 
institution. 

The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2 o'clock 
to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the library, or 
be accommodated with books to read in their houses. The rule 
relative to strangers and non-subscribers is very liberal. They 
may have the use of the books in the library, while it is open, 
free of expense, or, on depositing the value, ma}' borrow books 
and peruse them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of 
them. 

I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40 dollars 
of entry to a library too high, and two dollars of annual subscrip- 
tion too low. The great object of a library is to disseminate 
knowledge. To secure that object, the library should be within 
the reach of every member of the community. But every one 
cannot afford to give 40 dollars at once, while the greater part 
of those who wish to read can afford more than two dollars a year. 
The class of people to whom an institution of this kind is the most 
valuable is young men entering into the world, many of whom 
could not, or would not willingly, advance 40 dollars, but who 
would cheerfully give four or five dollars a year. Would it not 
be a wise regulation to accommodate such ? 

The most flourishing library, in point of funds, that I have 
heard of, is one in London, where the entry is one guinea, and 
the annual subscription is the same. It is entirely public, unclog- 
ged with any idea of stock, or shares. The subscribers are above 
1000, and the income is, of course, above 1000 guineas a year. 
The Glasgow public library is on a similar plan, but with more 



PENNSYLVANIA. 127 

limited funds, and is the most thriving institution of the kind 
that has ever come under my observation.* 

From the library we passed to Peale's Museum, which is a very 
excellent collection, principally of subjects in natural history, 
and does honour to the ingenuity and taste of the proprietor. 
Amono" other curiosities it contains an entire skeleton of the 
mammoth, well worth the attention of the naturalist. 

I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an elegant 
structure, consisting of three arches, built of wood, supported by 
strong stone piers, and covered in on the top. The length of the 
bridge is 550 feet, besides the abutments and wing walls, which 
are 750 more. The span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of 
the other two 150 each. It is 42 feet wide. The footways on 
each side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-way, which is di- 
vided into two parts, 32. The bridge, which was six years in build- 
ing, was finished last year, and the expence was 235,000 dollars. 

September 28. Having visited every thing I wished to see 
in the city, I was invited by a party of friends to take a jaunt in 
the country. We crossed Schuylkill by the foresaid bridge, and 
travelled four or five miles, to see a flax spinning-mill, belonging 
to a gentleman from Dundee. The mill was not at work, but 
we were informed that the business was doing very well ; the pro- 
duce was mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manufac- 
turer, we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very 
pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner. 

The Schuylkill river rises in the mountains, about 120 miles 
north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from Reading down- 
wards to the upper falls, three miles above where we stopped. 
The tide rises to the lower falls, where the river is about 150 
yards broad. The falls are much broken by huge masses of 
stone, with which the bed and banks of the river abound. The 
banks are highly romantic, and are ornamented with many ele- 
gant country seats. 

While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics, in which 
frequent appeals were made to me ; but I declined taking any 
share in the argument, for I did not fully agree with either 
party. Indeed I saw pretty plainly that self-interest was at the 
bottom of it, and that the party names they assumed were merely 

* Se« Appeodix, No. i. 



128 TRAVELS IN 

Other terms for importers and manufacturers^ who conceiving that 
their interests were opposed to each other, blamed the government 
of the United States — the one party fordoing too much in sup- 
port of domestic manufactures, and the other for doing too little. 
But all was discussed in good humour. 

After dinner we returned, through a pleasant, well-cultivated 
country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our way stopped 
at Harrowgate, where there is a medicinal spring, which is a 
good deal frequented in the summer season. We returned to the 
city in the evening. The day was clear and pleasant, and the air 
cool and healthy. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Pennsylvania. 

This fine state is situated between 39" 43' and 4-2° north la- 
titude, and 2* 20' east, and 3° 30' west longitude. It is 320 
miles long, from east to west, and 162 miles broad; and contains 
49,390 square miles, being 31,609,600 acres. 

The face of the country is remarkably diversified. The south- 
east part, to the distance of about 60 or 70 miles from Philadel- 
phia, is an undulating country, swelling in some places into con- 
siderable hills ; but it is not mountainous. The mountainous re- 
gion then commences, and extends across the country about 120 
miles. The mountains are generally in long chains, runnino- 
north-east and south-west. Between the chains, the country is 
rough and hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole 
abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and west of the 
mountains, the country is elevated, abounding with hills, vallejs 
and rich scenery; which continue about 120 miles, to the ex- 
tremity of the state. 

The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is situated 
on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south-east, by 
both of which there are fine outlets, the one affording direct and 
speedy communication with the Atlantic Ocean, the other com- 
municating with it by the more circuitous course of the river St, 
Lawrence ; while it is a link in the chain of an inland navigation, 
extending through the lakes upwards of a thousand miles. To 



PENNSYLVANIA. 129 

the South-west, the state communicates with the Ohio, having an 
outlet through the Mississippi, to the Gulf of Mexico; and 
from the middle there is an outlet through the Susquehannah to 
the Chesapeak bay. 

The rivers Delaware and Schuylkill have been already men- 
tioned. The most important of the others I shall notice in theii* 
order from east to west. 

The Lehigh rises among the mountains, between the Delaware 
and Susquehannah, and running a very crooked passage, emer- 
ges from the mountains about 50 miles from its source, and from 
thence runs through a fine country 30 miles, during which it is 
navigable, to Easton, wheie it falls into the Delaware. 

The Susquehannah is a noble river, and appears on the map like 
a large crooked tree, with numerous branches. The head waters 
of the eastern branch are numerous, and rise in the state of New 
York, not far from the waters of the Mohawk river* Passinof in- 
to the state of Pennsylvania, it makes a remarkable bend, called 
appropriately the Big Bend ,• from thence it makes a stretch into 
New York, and passing to the westward, about 40 miles, turns 
again to the southward, and })asses into the state of Pennsylvania, 
where it forms a junction with the Tioga river at Tioga point. 
It then runs a south-east course, about 70 miles; when mjilcino: a 
sudden bend, at a right angle, it runs a south-west course, abou^ 
80 miles, and unites with the western branch, at Norlhumbei- 
land. The river is now nearly half a mile broad, and flows 
through the mountains, nearly a south course of 40 miles, to 
where it receives the Junita, river. From thence it makes a con- 
siderable bend to the eastward, and running about 10 miles, it 
emerges from the mountains, above Harrisburg; and keeps a 
south-east cx)urse about 80 miles, when it falls into the Chesa- 
peak bay. 

The Tioga river has its head waters partly in Pennsylvania, and 
partly in New York, where some of the streams approach within 
a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence. These all unite 
in New York state, towards the Painted Post, and run a south- 
east course of nearly 40 miles, to the junction with the Susque- 
hannah. 

The westein branch of the Susquehannah is formed by many 
streams, beyond the Allegany mountains, some of them approaching 
within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence, and others 

17 



130. PENNSYLVANIA. 

within a few miles of the waters of the Ohio and Mississlppij^ and 
runs a very circuitous course, upwards of 200 miles, principally 
among the mountains, to its junction with the east branch. 

The Junita river rises on the Allegany mountains, near the 
head waters of the Conemaugh, a branch of the Ohio, and pass- 
ing through the mountains to the eastward, by a very serpentine 
course, it falls into the Susquehannah as aforesaid, its length be- 
ing nearly 200 miles. • 

The length of the Susquehannah, from the Chesapeak bay to 
the head of the eastern branch, is upwards of 450 miles; and the 
whole rivei*, including its branches, waters a country nearly 200 
miles square. It is navigable for large vessels only a few miles, 
and there are many islands, rocks, and falls, which obstruct the 
navigation for boats ; but it is presumed that these can be remov- 
ed, and that, by the aid of some locks and canals,^ it can be ren- 
dered navigable, almost to the source of the eastern branch. The 
western branch is navigable, for boats, nearly 150 miles, and the 
Junita river nearly 120. From this short account, the impor- 
tance c;f improving the navigation of this fine river will be readily 
inferred. 

The Allegany River rises on the highest land in the state, to 
the westward of the mountains, within a few miles of the head 
waters of the Genesee River, and the western branch of the Sus- 
(}uehannah. It is here called Oswaya Creek, and runs a north- 
west course into the state of New York, and, passing again into 
the state of Pennsylvannia, it receives the waters of Conewongo 
Creek and Ciuitaughque Lake. From thence it runs a winding- 
course, but generally south-west, to Franklin, where it receives 
the waters of French Greek. From thence it runs a circuitous 
course about 100 miles, receiving in its })rogress many tributary 
streams, particularly Toby's Creek and Kishkemanetas River, 
and at Pittsburg forms a junction with the Monongahela, which 
together constitute the Ohio. 

The Alleganv is a navipabie river, and the navigation is con- 
tinueu'^ through French Creek to Waterford, from when ce there 
is a portao-e of onlv 14 miles to Lake Erie. The navigation is 
extended info the country 20 or 25 miles, by the Kishkemanetas 
River. 

The Monongahela rises in Virginia, n ear the Laurel mountains 
and, running by a meandering course about 70 miles, passes into 



PENNSYLVANIA. 1^1 

this state; soon after which it receives the waters of Cheat River. 
From thence it continues, by a serpentine cburse, but nearly in a 
northern direction, about 60 miles, where it forms a junction with 
*Yoxhio2:eni, and thence runs north-west about l^ miles to Pitts- 
burg. It is'Tmvigable in large boats to Brownsville and Mor- 
gantown, 100 njiles from its mouth; and from thence by small 
boats 40 miles farther. The western branch is also navigable in 
hioh water. 

The yoj:/«'og-£';// rises in Maryland, and runs a course east of 
north, about 40 miles, before it passes into tliis state. From 
thence it runs a north-west course, and, passing the Laurel Hill 
and Chesnut Ridge, forms the junction with the Monongahela 
above mentioned ; its whole length being about 100 miles. 

This state is well supplied with iron ore, and coal abounds in 
many places, particularly in the western country. Slate is found 
in several places; and marble and freestone, of an excellent quali- 
ty, are found in great abundance. Limestone is also in great 
plenty, and some copper and lead have been found, but not in 
sufficient quantity to be wrought. There are many mineral 
springs ill the state. 

The soil to the east of the mountains is generally good, and 
a considerable part of it is bedded on limestone. Among the 
mountains, the land is rough, and much of it poor; but there are 
a great many rich and fertile valleys. To the west of the moun- 
tains, the soil is generally excellent. 

The climate is veiy various. On the east side of the Allegany 
mountains it is pretty similar tp Jersey, already described, \\, is, 
in common with the other countries east of the mountains, sub- 
ject to great and sudden changes ; but it is considered more set- 
tled than immediately on the sea-board, and is perfectly healthy. 
The winter commences about the 20tli of December, and the 
spring sets in about two weeks earlier than at New York. A- 
mong the mountains there is a sharp atmosphere, with a clear, 
settled sky. There is frost almost every month in the year in 
some places ; and the extremes of heat and cold are considerable. 
The winters may be reckoned a month longer than to the east- 
ward. The whole region is very healthy. — The country beyond 
the mountains has a temperate climate, with a considerable por- 
' tion of cloudy weather; and the winters are more humid and mild 
than on the Atlantic. 



1 32 PENNSYLVANIA. 

The state was first settled by the Swedes and Finlanders in 
1627, and afterwards by the illustrious Willian Penn, in 1681 ; 
i.nd from the liberal principles which he adopted, and the en- 
.<ouragenient held out to settlers of all denominations, the country 
experienced a rapid progress. The state took^an active part in 
the revolutionary war, during great part of which Philadelphia 
was the seat of congress. A state constitution was framed at an 
early period of the war ; but a new one was adopted in 1 790. 
The state now sends two senators and eighteen representatives to 
congress. 

Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 500, 
townships. The population, in 1800, was 602,365, including 
1 150 slaves, being about 12 persons to the squai'e mile. 

The state has made rapid progress in national improvements, 

.md abounds in all the conveniences, and many of the luxuries of 

life. The accumulation of property since the close of the war is 

very great; and, exclusive of Philadelphia, the state contains 12 

towns, in which there are from 1 000 to 4-500 inhabitants, among 

which Lancaster, York, Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburg are 

the most conspicuous. Besides these, there are upwards of 

'^0 villages, each containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants, and 

'he greater part, if not the whole of those towns and villages are 

increasing in wealth and population. The farm houses are most- 

\y comfortable, many of them elegant, and there are fine barns 

<ud other buildings. The state is well impi-oved by turnpike roads 

)p.d bridges ; and lately a great ^egree of attention has been paid 

;o canals. Many turnpike and canal companies have been formed. 

The agriculture of the state has progressed rapidly, and is in an 

ulvanced state. The staple article is wheat, of which the quanti- 

! ' manufactured into flour annually is immense. It is reckoned 

V 'C best in the United States, and surpassed by none in the 

V orld. The mountainous district is pretty much applied to 

■I sinff stock. The breed of horses is reckoned the best in the 

1 inited States. Sheep have of late greatly increased, and thrive 

; '.Mnarkably well. All the grains, grasses, and roots common to 

he other states thrive here. The stock of fruit, particularly 

peaches, is excellent; and some progress has of late been made 

<a tlie cultivation of the vine. 

Pennsylvania is said to be one of the greatest manufacturing 
irtates in the Union. Domestic manufactures are general throughout 



PENNSYLVANIA. 133 

the state; but there are many manufacturers on a large scale, some 
of which may be enumerated. Of iron there are above thirty fur- 
naces, besides numerous forges, slitting mills, and trip hammers. 
Of wood, all sorts of furniture, and implements of husbandry. 
Of leather, boots, shoes, saddles, bridles, harness, &c. Of wool, 
fi variety of cloths, stockings, and hat&. Together with a variety of 
other articles, such as malt liquors, spirits, glass, ashes, maple- 
sugar, musquets, powder, shot, ball?, cannon, bells, &c, &c. 

The exports consist principally of grain, flour, iron utensils, 
^axseed, soap and candles, lumber, beef, pork, &c. The amount 
of exports, in 1805, was 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,24-0 
dollars was domestic produce. The principal articles of export 
to Britain are grain and flour, and some cotton from the southern 
states. The imports consist of East and West India and China 
goods; wine, gin. Sec. from the continent of Europe; and manu- 
factures from Britain ; of which the quantity imported is immense, 
and is yearly increasing. The value of imports is about 12,000,000 
dollars annually, of which those from Britain are a full half; fro^^ 
yvhence we may infer the utility of the trade to both countries, and 
the importance of a good understanding between them. 

The state of society may be pretty much inferred from the pre- 
ceding remarks. The inhabitants have every external appearance 
of ease and affluence, and they are remarkably civil and industri- 
ous. There are no beggars to be seen here. Indeed, I have not 
yet seen any in the United States, which is a remarkable contrast 
to Europe, and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country. 

The civil government is vested in a legislature, consisting of a 
senate and house of representatives. The senators are chosen for 
four years, and the representatives annually, by the people. The 
executive authority is vested in a governor, who is also elected by 
the people, and holds his office for three years. The constitution 
declares, " That all men are born equally free and independent ;— 
that all power is inherent in the people ; — that all men have a na- 
tural and indefeasible right to worship God according to the dic- 
tates of their own consciences, and no man can of right be com- 
pelled to attend, erect, or support any place of worship, or to 
maintain any ministry against his consent ; — that no human authori- 
ty can, in any case whatever, controul or interfere with the rights 
of conscience, and that no preference shall ever be given, by law, 
to any religious establishment, or modes of worship ; — that elec- 



134 



TRAVELS IN 



tions shall be free and equal ; — that trial by jurj' shali be inviolate; — 
that no law shall ever be made to restrain the liberty of the press ; 
— that the people shall be secure against all unwarrantable searches, 
and excessive bail shall not be required ; — that the legislature shall 
provide by law for the establishment of schools throughout the 
state, in such a manner as the poor may be taught gratis ; — the 
arts and sciences shall be promotcil." 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Delaware river., — Ne-wcastle. 

J. UESDAY, September 30. Having engaged a passage on 
board a packet-boat bound to Newcastle, 4-0 miles belov/ this city, 
I went on board this morning at 7 o'clock. The packet was 
called the Hope, and was one of a line of boats that run between 
Philadelphia and Newcastle ; from thence there is a communication 
by stages across the state of Delaware to the Chesapeak bay, 
where another line of boats, connected with this, proceeds to 
Baltimore : the whole called, appropriately. Land and Water 
Stages. The distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fare, 
including board, is about three dollars. 

We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against us ; but 
the tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable progress till 
we reached six miles below Philadelphia, where we got aground 
on a place called the Horse-Shoe, >yhere we lay nearly two hours. 
After getting off, we..sailed about four miles, when we were obliged 
to come to anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Hav- 
ing stopped here till three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed an- 
chor, and sailed eight or ten miles; but the wind was right ahead, 
and had increased too much to beat down, so we were obliged 
again to come to anchor. We once more set sail at 1 1 o'clock at 
night, and next morning at 5 o'clock, we reached Newcastle. 

The river at Philadelphia is about a mile broad, and it widens 
as you proceed downwards. At Newcastle it is two milep broad ; 
from thence it spreads out into the Delaware bay. The banks of 
the river ai'e level, and covered with wood ; and the lands rise to a 
considerable height at a distance, affording in some places pretty 
good views. The only rivers of note that join the Delaware be- 



DELAWARE. 135 

tween Philadelphia and Newcastle, are the Schuylkill and Bran- 
dywine creek. The post-road to Baltimore runs along the western 
bank, and passes through Derby and Chester in Pennsylvania, and 
Wilmington in the state of Delaware; which last is a large town, 
and has a very pretty appearance when viewed from the river. 
On the east side, in Jersey, are Gloucester, "Woodbury, and 
Swed esborough . 

Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town containing about 
200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries on a considerable 
trade, principally in wheat. 

October 1st. Having taken an early breakfast, at a very good 
tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of Elk river. Th« 
road passes 13 miles through the state of Delaware, and 11 miles 
through Maryland ; and I found the whole distance a perfect level, 
without a single object to excite attention, or gratify the imagina- 
tion. The road was very bad, the lands alternately sandy and 
marshy ; and the people had a sallow sickly colour : the whole in- 
dicating a country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina 
and Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort of bye-road, 
which had been taken by this line of stages, and that it led through 
the very worst part of the country. 



CHAPTER XXVni. 

Delaware. 

The state of Delaware is situated between 38« 29' and 39° 47' 
north latitude, and 1° 15' and 1°56' east longitude. Its greatest 
length is 100 miles, and greatest breadth about 37; its area being 
about 2200 square mi(es, or about Ij^OSjOOO acres. 

The face of a great part of the country is level, abounding with 
swamps and stagnant water ; but toward the northern part it is 
more elevated, and near its extremity there is a considerable chain 
of hills. 

There are numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers of conse- 
quence. The principal one is Braudywine creek, which falls into 
the Delaware at ^^'^ilmington, and on which there are numerous 
mills and manufactories. 

The state is well supplied with iron, but I did hear of any other 
mineral. 



136 i)ELA\VARE:. 

The soil, In the southern partj is low and sandy, and entirely 
free of stones ; in the northern pare, it is n^ore diversified, and 
mixed with clay and loam. 

The climate partakes of the configuration of the country. The 
southern part has a humid atmosphere, often foggy and unwhole- 
some ; but is mild and temperate in winter* The northern part is 
agreeable and healthy. 

The settlement of this state was coeval with that of Pennsyl- 
vania. It took an active part in the revolution, and sent two dele- 
gates to the first congress* The state constitution was adopted in 
1792. It now sends two senators and one representative to congress. 

Delaware is divided into three counties and 24 districts, called 
hundreds. The population, in 1800, was 64,273, including 6143 
sla'ves ; being about 29 to the square mile.. 

The state of Delaware is considerably improved, and, besides 
many towns and villages of inferior note, contains several of con- 
siderable size. The most important are, — Wilmington, already 
mentioned, a large thriving town, built on the plan of Philadel- 
phia, consisting of 500 houses, a court-house, jail, and four places 
for public worship ; it carries on a very considerable ti'ade. Nr^- 
castle has been noticed. Dover is the seat of government, and 
contains about 600 inhabitants. Leivistoiion contains about 750 ; 
and Georgeto'wn about 200. 

A canal was projected across this state and part of Maryland, to 
form a junction between the Delaware and Chesapeak, and it is 
partly cut; but the work was stopped for want of funds. It may 
probably be well that it is so ; for it was projected on too small a 
scale, and, in process of time, Will probably give way to one that 
will admit of sloop navigation. I never observed a finer situatioir 
for a canal. The distance between the Delaware and Chesapeak 
is only about 18 or 20 miles, and the county is nearly level, so that 
few locks will be requisite ; and were a canal cut, it would Ibrm a 
connexion between two of the iinest rivers in America, and be a 
link in the chain of an internal navigaiion of vast extent. 

The greater part of the inhabitants of this state are devoted to 
agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it very productive. 
The principal produce is wheat, rye, Indian corn, barley, oats, and 
flax. Grasses are abundant, and thrive very luxuriantly, furnish- 
ing food for many cattle ; and every sort of vegetable, common to 
the states already desciibed, thrive well here. The staple produce 
s wheat, of which a great quantity of flour is made for export. 



MARYLAND. l37 

Flour is the principal manufacture carried on in the state. The 
mills on Brandywine creek are in great perfection, giving employ- 
ment to upwards of 600 hands ; and they manufacture upwards of 
half a million of bushels annually. The other articles consist prin- 
cipally of iron, paper, and lumber. In these a very extensive trade 
is carried on, principally with the other states and the West Indies. 
The exports in 1805 amounted to 358,383 dollars, of v/hich 280,556 
was foreign produce. The principal trade with Britain is carried 
on through the medium of Philadelphia. 

A very considerable fund is appropriated by the state to the sup- 
port of schools, which are pretty numerous, and there are two flour- 
ishing academies ; «ne at Wilmington, and the other at Newark. 

The constitution guarantees equal rights to all the citizens, with- 
out regard to property or religious opinions. The government is 
vested in a governor, a senate, and house of representatives, which 
are elected by ballot, and " every white freeman, of the age of 21, 
who has resided in the state two years next before the election, shall 
enjoy the right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified 
shall, betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though 
they have paid no taxes." 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Chesapeak hay,, — Baltimore, 

O N the first of October, 1 806, the day being clear and beautiful, 
we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesapeak bay, here about 
two miles broad. At one o'clock we stepped aboard the packet, 
and immediately set sail with a fair wind ; and enjoyed our situation 
Very much after the dull scenery we had passed, and the disagree- 
able jolting in the stage. 

Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pretty large creek, 
called Bohe river, and, at half i^ast 3 o'clock, reached the Chesa- 
peak bay. The view here was extensive and sublime. The bay is 
about six or seven miles broad, and its banks abound in rich sce- 
ftery, while its waters were animated with a great variety of small 
vessels. To the north-west is the entrance of the fine river Susque- 
hannah, about a mile broad, and its banks swell out into hills of 
considerable magnitude, which terminated our view in that direc- 

18 



1S8 TRAVELS IN 

tiou. To the east the country is low, and the soil appears poor 
and sandy. 

The whid shifted to the eastward, nhich considerably retarded 
our progress ; but this afforded me more leisure to survey the scen- 
ery, which was every where pleasant. The number of small ves- 
sels that we saw was very great, indicating a considerable commerce. 
October 2(1. Having gone to bed last evening early, I rose this 
this morning at 1 o'clock, when I found it clear and cold ; and a 
considerable breeze blowing from the north-west. I thought at first 
that this was in our favour ; but 1 soon found that we had in the 
night passed the branch that leads to Baltimore, and were nearly 
as far doAvn as Annapolis. We had therefore to beat up all the 
way io Baltimore, now distant about 20 miles : however, the vessel 
sailed remarkably well, and we made good progress. During the 
passage upwards we had a very fine view. We arrived at Balti- 
more at 6 o'clock in the morning. 

Having taken lodgings at Evans' tavern, I called on a friend to 
whom I had a letter of introduction, and he politely offered his ser- 
vices to faciliate my enquiries at Baltimore. On my return to the 
tavern to breakfast, I was astonished to see the number of M^ell-dress- 
. ed men who sat down to table, amounting to about 80, and I was 
told the, number was seldom under 40 or 50. This is partly ac- 
counted for by Baltimore being the gi-eat thoroughfare between the 
northern and southern states; and the number of people passing to 
and iVo, on business and pleasure, is immense. 1 learned that a 
great number of strangers were in the city at this time ; among o- 
thers my old friends and fellow-travellers, the Georgian major, and 
the facetious Englishman. They lodged at Biyden's tavern, a 
house nearly or altogether as much frequented as Evans'. 

Accompanied by my friend, I v/ent to see the market-house, 
which is handsomely fitted up, and v/ell supplied with provisions ; 
the prices, I was told, were reasonable, and nearly the same as at 
Philadelphia. From thence we went to the coifee-house ; on our 
way my friend pointed out, through a vvindow, a very handsome 
lady, with her child, who he informed me were the wife and child 
of Jerome Bonaparte. The coffee-house is small, but commodious, 
and is well supplied with newspapers from every part of the United 
States. From the coffee-house we went to the library, which con- 
tains a very excellent collection of books, and is under good man- 
agement ; the annual subscri])tion is four dollars. The whole city 



MARYLAND. 



139 



exhibited a very handsome appearance, and the country round »- 
bounds in villas, gardens, and well cultivated fields. 

In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw a three- 
masted schooner launched. I was informed that a great many of 
these vessels are built at Baltimore, and that they are i^eckoncd the 
fastest sailing vessels in the United States. 

I spent a very pleasant evening at Bryden's, along with my friend, 
in company with the major and tlie Englishman. The major related a 
number of marvellous adventures he had met with in his journey, and 
concluded by informing us that he was to drive tandem all the way 
to Georgia, and was to be accompanied by an elegant lady, and her 
husband, whom he had engaged as a clerk. To accommodate his 
suite, he was to take a Jersey waggon, in which he politely offered 
me a passage; but I preferred travelling in my own vvay, and de- 
clined it. The Englishman informed me that he was to leave Bal- 
timore next morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was from 
thence to travel through the interior of the country to New Orleans, 
availing himself of land or water conveyance as he might find it 
most suitable and expeditious. 

Baltimore is situated on a branch of the Patapsco river, called 
the Basin, 15 miles from the Chesapeak bay, and 160 miles from 
the Atlantic ocean. At the commencement of the American war, 
it was but an inconsiderable village; but such has been the rapidity 
of its growth, that it is now the fourth commercial city in the United 
States : it contains upwards of GOOO dwelling-houses, and, by the 
census of 1800, the inhabitants amounted to 26,514, of whom 2843 
were slaves : the houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them 
are elegant; the principal public buildings are 13 places of public 
worship, a court-house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, 
the exchange, theatre, observatory, assembly-rooms, and librarv. 
The manufactures of Baltimore are considerable, and consist chief- 
ly of ships, cordage, iron utensils, paper, saddlery, boots and shoes, 
hats, wool and cotton cards, &c. In the adjoining country there 
are numerous mills, furnaces, and forges, which contribute mucli 
to the trade of the city. 

The state of Maryland, in point of foreign trade, ranks the fourth 
in the union, and as a very great portion of it centres in Baltimore, 
it must necessarily add greatly to its' wealth and importance. A 
great portion of the export trade is flour, much of which is received 
from the state of Pennsylvania, through the medium of tJie Sus- 



140 MARYLAND. 

queliannali river; and tlie citizens have a brisk trade in importing 
and reshipping foreign articles, particularl^'West Indian produce — 
rum, sugar, and coffee. A great portion of the imports are manu- 
factured goods from Britain, and, having the supply of an immense 
back country, this is an increasing trade. I learned too that many 
of the people in the western states give Baltimore the preference to 
Philadelphia; it is .50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, 
which has a natural tendency to secure a preference ; and the inha- 
bitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the importance of this 
trade, have acted with a laudable zeal in making good roads. Upon 
the whole, I was highly pleased with the commercial importance of 
Baltimore, and regretted that I did not fix upon this place for my 
commercial establishment, in place of Savannah. The trade of 
Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample capitals. 
One is a branch of the bank of the United States. 

The affairs of the city are under the management of a city council, 
consisting of two branches, and a mayor. The police seems to be 
under good regulations, and the streets are kept very clean, which 
secures good health to the citizens. Education is pi'etty well attend- 
ed to ; and the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious : 
the men rank as correct men of business ; and as to the ladies, I saw 
but little of them, and can only say, in the language of the quaker, 
*^ they look well." 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Maryland. 

This state is situated between S8° and 39° 43' north latitude^, 
and 2° east and 2° 30' west longitude. Its extreme length from 
east to west is 212 miles, and its extreme breadth from north 
to south is 123 ; but it is very irregular. It is computed to contain 
about 14,000 square miles, or 8,960,000 acres, of which about one 
fourth is water. 

The face of the country is remarkably variegated. It is bound- 
ed on the south-west by the river Potomac to its extremity; and 
the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous waters, passes through 
the middle of it. On the east side it presents a coast of about 35 
miles to the Atlantic ocean: the eastern shore is low, level and sandy. 
The country continues to rise by a very gentle ascent, but is gene- 



MARYLAND. 141 

rally level to Baltimore ; it then swells out into a hilly country, and 
the western part stretches across the mountains. 

The Chesapeak Bay has already been noticed; but it merits a more 
particular description, from its vast importance to this state, and 
indeed to the United States generally. This bay is formed by. the 
outlet of the Susquehannah River, where it receives French Creek, 
and a number of smaller streams ; it is there about 7 miles broad, 
and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Baltimore ; 
from thence it assumes various breadths, from 10 to 15 miles, dur- 
ing a course downwards of about 70 miles, to near the Potomac 
River : from thence it stretches out to 25 or 30 miles, during a pas- 
sage of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by 
an outlet of 20 miles broad : the whole course, from north to soath, 
is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its passage the whole waters 
of this state, nearly the whole of the eastern part of Virginia, a 
great part of those of Pennsylvania, and some of Delaware ; exhi- 
biting, upon the whole, a gi'eater confluence of waters than is to be 
seen in the United States, or almost in the world. The principal 
rivers in Maryland that run into this bay, besides the Susquehan- 
nah and Potomac, are the Patapsco and Patuxent, on the west side ; 
and on the east side. Elk River, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nan- 
ticoke, and Pocomoke, the last of whieh issues out of Cyprus 
Swamp. There are numerous islands in the bay, and the waters a- 
bound with various kinds offish : the state is generally well watered, 
and abounds with mill-seats. 

Maryland is well supplied with iron ore, and some coal has been 
found ; but not in sufficient quantity to make it an object of im- 
portance. 

The soil is very various, and a great portion of it is but poor : to- 
wards the eastern shore it is low and sandy, abounding with swamps; 
in the interior there are many fertile sjxjts ; but the greater part of 
the land is poor until you pass the first ridge of mountains, where 
there is a fertile valley of 12 or 14 miles broad : from thence the 
soil is pretty much assimilated to the mountainous district of 
Pennsylvania. 

The climate is as various as the soil : the eastern part is pretty 
similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale sickly colour in the inha-r 
bitants. It improves as the land gets hilly, and among the moun- 
tains is delightful, the summers being cooled by fine breezes, while 
the winters are tempered by a soutliem latitude, which renders then^ 
much more mild thaa to the northward. 



143 MARYLAND. 

The country was first settled by Lord Baltimore, a Roman 
Catholic, who evinced the liberality of his religious principles, by 
providing for the free exercise of all other religious opinions in the 
colony. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the state 
was declared to belong to the citizens, who delegated five of their 
number to the first congress. The state constitution was framed 
in 1776, which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues. 
The state now sends two senators and nine representatives to con- 
gress. 

The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by the 
census of 1800, 241,885 white persons, and 107,707 slaves; be- 
ino-, in the whole, about 25 persons to the square mile of ter- 
ritory ; but, when the proportion of water is subtracted, it makes 
the amount to each square mile nearly 25. 

National improvements have kept pace with the industry 
and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns, cultivated 
farms, road?, and bridges are all so many proofs that the citizens 
of Maryland are possessed, in a high degree, of these qualifica- 
tions. 

Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is the chief. An- 
napolis is the seat of government, and is situated on the Severn 
River, about two miles f/om its entrance into Chesapeak Bay. 
The houses, built of brick, are about 300 in number, and the 
city contains about 2500 inhabitants. The State-House is one 
of the most superb buildings in the United States. There is a 
college, a theatre, and two places of public worship in the city. 
It has a harbour, though no great commerce ; but, being a plea- 
sant place, it is the residence of a great many wealthy people. Fre-. 
derick-tomi is a large inland town, containing a court-house, jail, 
academy, market-house, and seven places of public worship. The 
inhabitants are about 6000; and the town has considerable manu- 
factures and inland trade. Hagers-towi, situated beyond the first 
rann-e of mountains, contains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, 
there are a great number of smaller towns and villages, contain- 
ing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the farm- 
houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial, nor so 
elegant, in general, as those in Pennsylvania. 

This is the first state in which there is a material difference of 
agriculture from the northern states; still, however, the staple 
crop is wheat ; but they raise a considerable quantity of tobacco. 



DISTniCT OF COLUMBIA. 143 

and some cotton, though none of the latter for exportation. All 
the other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow in the northern 
states, flourish here ; and the sweet polatoe, a root belonging to 
a warm climate, comes to considerable maturity. 

The principal manufactures of the state have been noticed in 
the account of Baltimore; and so has the foreign trade. The 
exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to 10,859,480 dollars, 
of which 7,450,937 dollars was foreign produce ; and the imports 
are about equal in value, of which a great part consists in dry 
goods from Britain. 

There are considerable funds appropriated to the support of 
education. There are five colleges, and a number of wery respect- 
able academies in the state, and common schools in every county. 

The civil government is vested in a governor, senate, and house 
of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualification to vote for 
delegates is a freehold of 50 acres of land, or property to the 
value of ^.30 currency. The principles of government are similar 
to those of Pennsylvania. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

Patapsco Creek^ — Washington. 

On the third of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in the mail 
stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles through a hilly, 
well-wooded, and healthy country, and arrived at Patapsco creek, 
25 miles above its junction with the Chesapeak. It is navigable 
thus far, but the navigation is obstructed by the falls half a mile 
above. We travelled eight miles more through a similar country, 
when we stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor, 
and little cultivated ; the principal woods were oak, hickory, and 
pine. The air was sweet and pure, and having intelligent com- 
pany in the stage, the travelling was very agreeable. At 19 miles 
from Patapsco creek, we stopped again to change horses, on an 
elevated situation, where we had a fine view of the adjacent coun- 
try; and, in one direction, not less than 20 miles distant. 

From thence v.e travelled ] 6 miles, through a country rough 
and uneven, and by a road no less so, when we came to an agree- 
able plain ; and two miles further we passed through a little scat- 



144 



TRAVELS IN THE 



tering village called Bladensburg, situated on the east branch of 
the Potomac ; from thence we travelled nine miles more to Wash- 
ington city; the whole distance being 44 miles. The country ap- 
peared generally poor and sterile ; and the season had been un- 
commonly dry, in consequence of which all the grass and herbs 
were parched, and the face of nature every where exhibited a 
scorched-like appearance. I noticed, however, several thriving 
fields of tobacco. 

Being told that we were entering Washington city, I continu- 
ed looking for the houses for some little time; but seeing none, 
I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman who made the 
remark, and turning round for an explanation, he told me, laugh- 
ing, that we were almost in the very middle of it, and asked if I 
did not see the Capitol a little before us. I did, indeed, see a 
stately edifice, but no other appearance of a city. Soon after this, 
the stage stopped, at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol, 
where I took lodgings. 

On walking out to the Capitol Hill, I had a fine view of the 
whole scite of the city, which is very large, extending a mile and 
a half in each direction north and south of the Capitol ; to the 
east two miles ; and to the west nearly two miles and a half. The 
buildings, though numerous, being scattered over this large space, 
give it more the appearance of a thickly-settled country than a 
city ; and, very few of them extending in the direction we came, 
we had travelled a good way into the city before I saw it. 

The view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole coun- 
try round is handsomely settled, with elegant houses ; and the 
view is terminated to the west, south-west, and north-west, with 
highlands. To the south, is the river Potomac, with Alexandria 
pleasantly situated on its banks. The navy-yard and shipping, 
and the barracks, are seen to the south-cast and eastward ; and to 
the west is the president's house, a stately edifice, about a mile 
distant ; beyond which, handsomely situated on the brow of the 
hill is Georgetown. The Pennsylvania avenue runs between 
the Capitol and the president's house, and being ornamented with 
trees and walks on each side, forms o, very pleasing prospect. It 
is in this direction that the city is making greatest progress. 

The evening was clear and pleasant, and the reflection of the 
setting sun added lustre to the scenery. 



DISTRICT O? COLUMBIA. 14Sr 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

TVashingtoh, — Treasury^ — Capitol^ — Barrachi — Navi/- Yard, 
'■■y Gcorgetomi. 

Washington, October 4. Having been furnished with 
a letter ot introduction to a gentleman in the treasury office, I 
called this morning, when I was politely received, and got every 
information calculated to facilitate my inquiries. My friend car- 
ried me to the different departments in the office, which are all 
spacious and commodious ; but this being a time at which there 
was no public business, there was little to be seen. From thence 
yfe went to the post-office, which has ho great appearance exterior- 
ly, but it seems to be very well arranged in the interior to answer 
the purpose for which it was designed. I was informed that both 
these departments were under excellent management. 

I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman who has 
the charge of the Capitol, and went with him to see that edifice. 
It is an elegant building of hewn stone, and consists of two wings 
and a portico in the middle. The north wing was quite complete, 
and the whole legislative business was transacted in it for the time. 
The senate-chamber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant 
apartment, with handsome furniture ; it is adorned with full length 
portraits of the late unfortunate king and queen of France. The 
house of representatives meet in an apartment up stairs, which, I 
was told, was ultimately destined fot the library room. It was 
fitted up with commodious seats for the members, but no way or- 
namented. The only things in it which merited notice, were two 
very elegant views of the falls of Niagara. From thence we 
went to the south wing, where a great many workmen were em- 
ployed ; and I was told they were making great exertions to have it 
finished in time for the next congress. The apartment for the 
house of representatives is a large oval room, occupying nearly 
the whole building up stairs, and will, when finished, be very 
superb. 

From the Capitol 1 went to see the barracks. They are large 
and convenient, and were garrisoned by 250 men, being a portion 
of the United States' army. I was informed that they were found 
in every thing, besides their pay of six dollars per month. This, ,,^ 
♦lowever, does not bear a proportion to thq wages of the other 



146 TRAVELS IN THB 

classes in America, who, on iin average, may be found in every 
tiling, and have twelve dollars per month. The conse- 
quence is, that the few military that are wanted will probably 
not be, generally speaking, equal in respectability to the other ci- 
tizens. It is probable they will be composed of indolent men, who 
are not willing to labour, or of vicious men, who have become ob- 
noxious to society. This should, if possible, be guarded against. 
No set of men should be more respectable than those to whom are 
committed the national defence ; and measures should be devised to 
place them on a footing with their brethren in regard both to in- 
dustry and pecuniary means. Would it not be wise in a nation to 
plan works of public utility, and employ a portion of the time of 
the military in executing them ? This would not only improve the 
country, but would keep the men m active employment, and afford 
them wages equal to the other classes in society. 

From the Barracks I went to the Navy-Yard, where I saw eight 
or ten frigates, the most of them undergoing repair. I went on 
board one, which, I was informed, was the Chesapeak. She car- 
ries 4*4' guns, and appears very large for that metal. 

Having seen the most material places in Washington, I procured 
a horse, and took a ride to Georgetown, three miles distant from 
the Capitol. The view is very elegant the whole way, and, in the 
vicinity of Georgetown, there is a romantic chasm, in which there 
is a pretty large stream of water, called Rock Creek. Having 
passed this by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, which I found 
reo-ularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the side of 
a hill, having a considerable descent to the river, of which it has 
a fine view, ft contains about 300 houses, and 4,500 inhabitants. 
Most of tlie houses are built of brick, and some ofthem are elegant. 
The public buildings are five places for public worship, an academy, 
and a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, in consequence 
of the rapid settlement of the back country, is yearly increasing. 

The River Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad opposite 
Washington, contracts here to less than a fourth of that distance ; 
and it is proposed to build a bi'idge across it, which, if executed, 
Avill add much to the convenience of this part of the country. 

This. river merits particular notice^ and I cannot any where in- 
troduce it with more propriety than here. 
The Potomac rises from a spring on the north-west side of the 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. l47 

Allegany mountairs, and runs a north-east course of about 60 
•miles, to Cumberland, where it makes a bend, and, by a serpen- 
tine course, nearl}^ south-east, runs about 18 miles, to where it 
receives the south-west branch. It then turns to the north-east, 
and runs a veiy serpentine course of about 45 miles, in which it 
receives a considerable number -of tributaiy streams, to Hancock's 
Tovi^n. Here it makes another bend to the south-east, and 9 miles 
from thence it receives the waters of Licking Creek, and passes the 
North Mountain into a fine limestone valley, which it waters by a 
very winding course, and principally a south-east direction, for 
about 45 miles. In this valley it receives a considerable number of 
small streams, particularly the Conecocheague Creek, at Williams- 
port in the middle of the valley; and at the extremity it receives 
the waters of the Shenandoah from Virginia ; and, by a singularly 
•grand passage, issues through the Blue Mountain. It thence passes 
on, nearly in the same direction, about SO miles, where, by two 
diiferent falls, in the course of 8 or 10 miles, it descends above 
140 feet to the level of tide- water, which it meets at Georgetown. 
The river now increases to about a mile broad, and, passing 
Alexandria and Mount Vernon, it runs a course a little to the 
west of south, to 35 miles below Alexandria, where it makes a 
great bend of nearly 15 miles to the north-cast. It now gradually 
- increases in breadth, and running 50 miles below this bend, flows 
into the Chesapeak Bay, by a passage about 10 miles broad. This 
is one of the most important of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its 
intersecting the country in a central situation, has excited great 
attention in the United States ; more especially since \\^a8hington 
was fixed on as the seat of the general government. It is navigable 
for ships of any burderj to Alexandria, a distance of about 100 
miles, and about 180 from the Capes of Virginia; and from 
thence for vessels of considerable burden to Georgetown, at the 
head of tide-watei\ There is a lock navigation, constructed at 
great labour and expense, round the first falls. Cpnsiderable im- 
provenients have been made further up the river ; and it is pre- 
sumed, that, by following up these improvements, the river can 
be made fit for boat navigation to Cumberland, 180 miles above 
tide-water, the elevation being 700 feet above tlie level of the sea. 

Connected with this important subject, I may here notice, that 
a road has been laid out, by order of congress, from Cumberland, 
across the mountains, to Brownsville on the Monongahela, a dis- 



148 TRAVELS IN THE 

tance of 72 miles, oa which tlie angle of ascent is no where 
greater than ^ degrees. From Brownsville there is an easy navi- 
gation to Pittsburg on the Ohio. 

I returned from Georgetown to dine with my friend ; and after 
dinner was introduced to a number of gentlemen of Washington, 
who vied with one another in showing me attention, and in giv- 
ing me information. 

Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, the editor of the National In- 
telligencer, a shrewd, sensible man ; and, having a desire to be 
correctly informed of the measures of the general government du- 
ring my stay in America, I ordered a copy of that paper to be 
sent to Savannah. I had frequently seen and admired it for its 
liberality of sentiment, and freedom from personal abuse ; and, 
from the access which the editor must necessarily have to the best 
sources ol hiformation, I was satisfied that the intelligence con- 
tained in it might be generally relied on. 

In the evening I was informed by my friends, that the presi- 
dent had unexpectedly arrived in the city, and I was advised to 
call upon him before I left it. I wished very much to have an 
opportunity of seeing the president ; but I was informed at New 
York and Philadelphia, that he would not be at Washington until 
late in November, in consequence of which, I was not furnish- 
ed with a letter of introduction. But they informed me, that it was 
altogether unnecessary ; Mr. Jefferson wi^s a man of no ceremony, 
find I could introduce myself as a stranger, and would be attended 
to as such, and would see more of the president than I could in 
any other way. 

This advice I resolved to follow, and the result of it shall he 
communicated in the next chapter. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

IntervieiX) with Mr, Jefferson. 

Washington, October 5. in pursuance of the recom- 
mendation of my friends, I set out, this morning, at 8 o'clock, 
for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefferson. On my arrival at 
the president's house, I delivered my address to a servant, who in 
a few minutes returned with an answer, that Mr. Jefferson would 
be with me presently, and showed me into an elegant apartment. 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 149 

Ml". Jefferson soon entered by an inner door, and requesting me 
to be seated, sat down himself; and immediately, and very frank- 
ly, entered into conversation, by asking where I had landed, and 
how long I had been in the country. Having informed him, he 
remai'ked thajt I would probably be travelling to the northward ; 
I replied that I had been to the north, and was now travelling to 
the southward. " And how do you like New York ?" " Very 
much," said I ; "it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, 
I presume, will always continue to be the first commercial city 
in the United States." He observed that he found that idea gene- 
rally entertained by strangers ; that New York was a very fine 
situation, and would unquestionably continue always to be a great 
commercial city : but it appeared to him that Norjolk would pro- 
bably, in process of time, be the greatest sea-port in the United 
States,' New Orleans perhaps excepted. He pointed out the circum- 
stances of the vast confluence of waters, that constituted the outlet of 
the Chesapeak bay, on which Norfolk is situated, and remarked that 
these rivers were as yet but partially settled ; but they were rapidly 
settling up, and, when the population was full, the quantity of sur- 
plus produce would be immense, and Norfolk would probably be- 
come the greatest depot in the United States, except New Orleans. 

The conversation next turned upon the climate and season ; on 
which the president remarked, that the country had this summer 
been remarkably healthy ; that no case of epidemical sickness had 
come to his knowledge, some few of bihous fever and fever and 
ague excepted, at the foot of the mountains on James' river, not 
far from where he lived j and which country was never known to 
experience any cases of the kind before. As this appeared singu- 
lar, I inquired whether there was any way of accounting for it. 
He replied, that the way he accounted for it was this : " In ordi- 
nary seasons, there is a sufficiency of water to keep the rivers in a 
state of circulation, and no more ; but this season there has been 
a long and severe drought, which, in many places, has dried them up. 
The water has stagnated in pools, and sends out a putrid effluvia to 
some distance ; which, being lighter than the atmosphere, ascends 
even some little way up the mountains, and reaches the abodes 
of those who thought themselves heretofore free from attack." 

I was struck with the force of this remark, and applied it to a cir- 
cumstance that had come under my observation at Washington. 
The Capitol Hill is elevated above the r^fer upwards of 70 fe©t. 



150 TRAVELS IN THE 

Between this and the river there is a low meadow, about a mile 
broad, abounding with swamps and shrubbery. In the autumn 
these swamps send out an effluvia, which often affects the health 
of those who live on the hill. I noticed this circumstance, and 
the president remarked, that it was exactly in point. He said he 
had frequently observed from his windows, in the morning, the 
vapour to rise, and it seemed to have sufficient buoyancy to carry 
it to the top of the hill, and no further ; there it settled, and the 
inhabitants coming out of their warm rooms, breathed this cold 
contaminated vapour, which brought on agues and other com- 
plaints. He said he had frequently pointed out this to the people, 
and urged them to drain the swamp, but it was still neglected, 
although they had, besides sufferingin their health, probably expend- 
ed more in doctor's bills than it would have cost. " But, indeed," 
he continued, " mankind are exceedingly slow in adopting resolu- 
tions to prevent disease, and it is very difficult to convince them 
where they originate ; particularly when the reasoning applied 
is the result of philosophical deduction/' 

The transition from this subject to that of the yellow fever was 
natural, and I introduced it by noticing Paine's essay on the sub- 
ject. The president observed, that it was one of the most sensible 
performances on that disease^ that had come under his observation. 
The remarks were quite philosophical, and, not being calculated to 
excite any party feeling, they might have a very useful tendency.* 
He then made a few remarks on the nature of the yellow fever 
itself. He observed, that it evidently arose from breathing im- 
pure air, and impure air may be either generated in the country 
pr imported. A case had come under his observation where it 
was imported. A vessel arrived at Norfolk, and the air in her 
hold was so pestilential, that every person who went into it was 
affected, and some of them died ; but, on the discovery being 
made, the vessel was purified, and the fever did not spread. This 
was a local circumstance, he observed, and there may be many 
others, which are pernicious as far as they go, and care should be 
taken to prevent them. But a ship can never import a sufficient 

• I had seen this essay of Mr. Paine in the new spapcrs, ond I made mention of it 
in the account of my conversation with him, page 65. I have since procured a copy 
Bf the essay ; and as it is the most intelligible account that I have yet seen of the yel- 
low fev€r, and is entirely clear of party prejudices, I have inserted it at ?ull length 
.pi me Appendix, No. I. 



DISTRICT OP COLUMBIA. 151 

quantity of impure air to pollute a whole city, if that city be other- 
wise healthy, and therefore the origin of the yellow fever, on 
an extended scale, must be sought for in an impure air, generated 
from filth collected in and about great cities; and it was very 
expedient that this view of the subject should be enforced, in or- 
der to induce mankind to attend to one of the most important 
concerns in life — cleanliness. 

I took notice of the bad state of the road between Baltimore 
and Washington, and expressed my surprise that it should 
remain in this state, so near the capital of the United States. 
The president observed, that the removal of the seat of govern- 
ment was a recent measure, and the country was so extensive, 
that it would necessarily be a considerable time before good roads 
could be made in all directions, but as it was a most important 
subject, it would be attended to as fast as circumstances would 
pei-mit ; and the road to Baltimoi'e, being the great thoroughfare 
to the northern states, would probably be one of the first that 
would undergo a thorough repair. He then informed me, that 
both this subject and that of internal navigation by. canals, were 
under consideration at the present time, upon a very extended 
scale, and probably a report would soon be published relative to 
them ; and he had little doubt, but that in less than 20 years 
turnpike roads would be general tliroughout the country; and a 
chain of canals would probably be cut, which would complete an 
inland navigation from Massachusetts to Georgia ; and another to 
connect the eastern with the western waters, 

I remarked that these would be most important improvements, 
and would greatly facilitate internal intercourse ; and as to manu- 
factures, I presumed it would long continue to be the policy of 
the country to import them. He replied, that this, like other 
branches, would of course find its level, and would depend upon the 
genius of the people ; but it was astonishing, the progress that had 
been raad& in manufactures of late years. It would hardly be believ- 
ed, he said, by strangers, but he had it on the best authority, that 
the manufactures of Philadelphia were greater in value annually, 
than were those of Birmingham 20 years ago; and he had no 
doubt but that manufactures of articles of the first necessity 
would increase until they became quite general through the coujitry. 
As the non-importation act was then in dependence, I was na- 
turally anxious to ascertain, whetlier matters were likely to be 



152 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 

adjusted with Britain, and, as modestly as possible, etideavOiired 
to turn the conversation that way. I was urged to this by two 
considerations. I was not sure but that part of our fall importa- 
tion would come under the operation of the non-importation 
act, if it took place; and being fully satisfied of the friendly 
disposition of the whig party in Britain towards America, I would 
gladly have availed myself of an opportunity of expressing that 
opinion to the president. But on this subject Mr. Jefferson was, 
0f course, reserved ; though, from the few observations he made, 
I concluded that matters would ultimately be amicably adjusted. 
I was highly gratified by the expression of his opinion, on the 
character of ray great favourite statesman Mr. Fox. Accounts had 
that morning reached Washington, that Mr. Fox was in the last 
stage of his illness. — ■! noticed the circumstance. " Poor man," 
said Mr. Jefferson, "I fear by this time he is no more, and his loss will 
be severely felt by his country : he is a man of the most liberal and 
enlightened policy — a friendto his country, and to the human race." 
A gentleman then called upon him, I believe general Eaton, and 
I took my leave, highly pleased with the affability, intelligence and 
good sense of the President of America. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

District of Columbia. 

This district is lO mlles square, and was ceded to the United 
States by the states of Virginia and Maryland ; and in the year 
1800 became the seat of the general government. It is in north 
latitude 38° 54', and the American geographers have adopted it 
as the first meridian of longitude, which I have followed in my 
descriptions of the states, so as the reader may know at a glance 
how far they are removed from the capital. The face of the coun- 
try around it has been noticed : the soil appears poor and sandy : 
the climate is the same as the middle district of Maryland, and, 
judging from the countenances of the people, I should infer it is not 
very healthy : it is high and dry ; but the whole flat country of Vir- 
ginia and North Carolina lies to the south of it; and, when a south 
wind blows, it must waft a great deal of marsh effluvia along with it, 
of which the people in this district will receive a full share. 

The district lies ou both sides of the Potomac river, and is dj« 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, 153 

vided into two counties, one on each side. The population, when 
I was there, was supposed to be about 17,000, including those of 
Georgetown and Alexandria ; and it was rapidly encreasing. 

The general improvements in this district have been already no- 
ticed. Besides the settlements scattered over the district, it con- 
tains two principal towns, and the capital ; of these, Georgetown 
has been already mentioned ; and as I shall have occasion to notice 
Alexandria in a subsequent article, it only remains here to give a 
general account of the fedei'al city. 

WASHINGTON 

Is situated In the centre of the district of Columbia, and is bound- 
ed on the south-east by the eastern branch of the Potomac river, to 
the south-west by the western branch, to the north-west by Rock 
creek, and to the north-east by the open country. Its extreme 
length from north-west to south-east is a little more than four miles 
and a half, and its medium breadth ft-om north-east to south-west 
about two miles and a half, being nearly the dimensions of the city 
of London, including Westminster and South wark. 

An elegant plan of this city has been published, on which I count- 
ed 37 squares, 17 grand avenues, named after the different states, 
and 103 streets crossing one another at right angles, and running 
the whole length and breadth of the city. On this plan I find the 
following observations : 

" The grand avenues, and such streets as lead immediately to 
public places, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and may be conveni- 
ently divided into foot-ways, walks of trees, and a carriage-way. 
The other streets are Irom 90 to 110 feet wide. 

" In order to execute this plan, Mr. Ellicott drew a true meri- 
dional line by celestial observation, which passes through the area 
intended for the capitol ; this line he crossed by another, due east 
and west, which passes through the same area : these lines were ac- 
curately measured, and made the basis on which the whole plan was 
executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instrument, and deter- 
mined the acute angles by actual measurement, and left nothing to 
the uncertainty of the compass. 

" The positions for the different edifices, and for the several 
squares or areas of different shapes, as ihcy are laid down, were first 
determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding the 
most extensive prospects, and the better susceptible of such improve- 
ments as either use or ornament may hereafter call for. 

20 



154; T'RAX'-ELS IN THE 

" Lines or avenues of direct communication have been devised to 
connect the separate and most distant objects with the principal, and 
to preserve through the whole a reciprocity of sight at the same 
time. Attention has been paid to the passing of these leading ave- 
nues over the mobt favourable ground for prospect and convenience* 
" North and south lines, intersected by others running due east 
and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, squares, &c.; 
and those lines have been so combined as to meet at certain given 
points with those divergent avenues, so as to form on the spaces 
first determined, the different squares or areas." 

There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the city, on 
which I find the following observations : 

" The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the level of the 
tide in said creek, is 236 feet, 7 inches : the water of this creek may 
be conveyed on the high ground where the Capitol stands, and af- 
ter watering that part of the city, may be destined to other useful 
purposes. The perpendicular height of the ground where the Ca- 
pitol is to stand is above the tide of Tiber creek 78 feet. 

" The perpendicular height of the west branch above the tide in 
Tiber creek, is 1 1 5 feet, 7 inches. 

" The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may be con- 
veyed to tfie president's house." 

A most elegant plan indeed, and a very animated desci'iption. 
It only wants 40,000 elegant buildings, and a corresponding popu- 
lation, to constitute the American capital one of the handsomest ci- 
ties in the world \ However, it is fo be recollected that every thing 
must haCve a beginning; and the time was when London was not. 
The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and 5000 in* 
habitants: the buildings are all of brick, three stories high, and a- 
greeable to a given plan ; there are many scattering huts and wood- 
en buildings throughout the district, but they are only temporary* 
The greater part of the public buildings have been already noticed: 
there are, besides, two or three churches, three market-houses, and 
a jail. The markets ate tolerably \^c\\ supphed with provisions j 
but every article is dear ; the prices may be reckoned one-third 
higher than at Philadelphia, — a circumstance that will probably o- 
peratc against the progress of population. 

The principal manufactures are those calculated for domestic con- 
sumption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a considerable retail 
trade ; but very little of any other : the shipping trade is carried on 
at Alexandria, and the inland trade at Georgetown. 



DISTRICT OP COLUMBIA. 155 

The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the union, and 
there are many foreigners among them : they are reputed to be or- 
derly and correct in their morals, and have bent their attention 
very much to the subjects of education and internal improvement. 
The district of Columbia, west of the Potomac, is subject to the 
laws of Virginia, and east of the river to those of Maryland ; but 
the whole is under the special direction of the government of the 
United States, and the internal police is managed by a corporation, 
of which the president of the United States appoints the mayor : 
the other members are elected by the people. 

There is a circuit court of the United States within the district, 
consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and they hold four 
sessions annually. 

A few general remarks shall close this chapter, and my account 
of the capital of the United States. 

Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many con- 
flicting opinions about British influence and French influence, and 
federalism and democracy, and the supposed enmity of the Ameri- 
can government to Britain and British trade, and of a partiality 
for the French and Bonaparte, I determined to take no share in 
the argument, but to hear all the evidence on both sides, as it came 
in my way, and to judge for myself. 

The result of this judgment I shall now communicate. 
I was satisfied, from all that I had seen and heard, that there is 
hojiajide British influence in the country, of a very powerful nature, 
great in extent, and arising from very obvious causes : the princi- 
pal of these are the identity of language, the similitude of manners 
and habits, and the extensive commerce between the United States 
and Britain. To prove the influence arising from these, it is un- 
necessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in America a 
stranger : I travelled through the country, associating every where 
freely with the people : I was uniformly received as a friend. I 
waited on the chief magistrate of America, altogether in an unpre- 
meditated manner : I sent up ray address as " a nfitive of Britain :" 
his conduct and conversation have been faithfully recorded in the 
preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it. Did it look like 
prejudice against Britain, or British people? — I say no. 

In regard to French influence, it stands upon a footing exactly 
the reverse : the natives of France have a different language, and 
different manners and habits : when they arrive in this country 



156 TRAVELS IN 

they have a language to learn ; they never can earn to speak it 
with the fluency of a native ; and they have few ideas m common, so 
that there really is little whereon to ground a free interchange of 
sentiments and of friendship. Accordingly it is found that the 
French natives in the country are generally a quiet peaceable peo- 
ple, who associate mostly among themselves, anil pay little or no at- 
tention to politics, or to public concerns. I cannot illustrate this 
subject better than by a quotation from M. Talleyrand. He had 
travelled extensively in the United states, and had paid very close 
attention to the manners of the people. He closes a series of obser- 
vations with this sentiment : " In all my travels through the coun- 
try, I never saw an Englishman that was not treated as a native ; 
I never saw a Frenchman that was not treated as a stranger." 

Passing over mere party-bickerings, which 1 leave with a great 
deal of pleasure to the newspapers, I shall here remark that it ap- 
peared to me there was every disposition to have an amicable ad- 
justment of all differences with Britain, and to cultivate a friendly 
intercourse to every extent that the natives mutually wished, or 
that their wants might call for; and as to partiality for Bonaparte 
Tind the French, it was my sincere opinion, very deliberately form- 
ed, that there was none. Hence, my opinion was strengthened as 
to the probability of a good understanding between the two coun- 
tries ; for I was satisfied of the friendly disposition of the British 
ministry. I knew they did not all view America in the same light, 
and I dreaded the loss of Mr. Fox ; but while a Grenville, an Ers- 
kine, and a Grey remained in the cabinet, I was convinced that the 
valuable trade to the United States would not be sacrificed to a 
crooked policy, nor to gratify the avarice of a number of unprinci- 
pled speculators. I saw, indeed, a black cloud in the rere. A most 
powerful tory faction pressed upon the national councils, and al- 
most brow-beat virtue out of countenance ; and this faction was 
strong in the good-will of the court. But, to counterbalance this, 
the heir apparent, the prince of Wales, was with the whig party, 
and I hoped for the best. 

In the afternoon I took my departure, in a ferry-boat, for Alex- 
andria, which I reached at 6 o'clock 

Alexandria is situated on the west bank of the Potomac, in the 
south-east corner of the district of Columbia. It is laid out on 
the plan of Philadelphia, the streets crossing one another at right 
angles, and they are bi'oad and airy. It contained, by the census 



VIRGINIA 157 

of 1800, 4096 free inhabitants, and 875 slaves; the population has 
since greatly increased. The public buildings are a court-house 
and jail, a bank, and an episcopal church. I observed consider- 
able shipping in the river, and learned that the inhabitants have a 
pretty extensive trade, principally in flour and tobacco. 

The weather, during my stay in the district of Columbia, was 
clear and very warm ; and from the observations 1 made, I was 
satisfied that there must be a material difference of climate between 
this place and Philadelphia, the great change happening some- 
where near the Patapsco river, agreeably to the opinion of Volney. 

On applying at the mail stage-ofiice, I found there were 10 
places engaged, so that it was with some difficulty I could get ac- 
commodated; but they agreed to squeeze me amongst the number; 
and I retired to bed, resolved to sleep as fast as possible, with a view 
of getting up at 4 o'clock in the morning, the hour at which I was 
told the stage would set out. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

— FredericJcsburg^ — Michmond, — Petersburg. 

Monday, October eth, 1806, at half past 4 o'clock, I took 
my place in the stage, and we left Alexandria a little before 5. 
We travelled by a pretty rough road, 1 7 miles, to Occoquhan 
creek, where we stopped for breakfast. Part of our journey being 
before day-light, I could only remark that the country appeared 
uneven, and the soil tolerably good. 

After breakfast, the company began to get a little acquainted 
with each other, and to exchange sentiments. I mentioned before 
that we were 1 1 in number, and it will show the nature of travel- 
ling in this country, to mention the places of destination. Three 
of the passengers were going to Richmond, in Virginia, 126 miles 
distant ; two were going to Columbia, in south Carolina, distant 
511 miles; one to Augusta, in Georgia, distant 596 miles; one to 
Fayettcville, North Carolina, 351 miles; three to different places 
in the interior of the country ; and I was going to Savannah, in 
Georgia, distant 653 miles. 

As we constituted a little republic, and several of us were to be 
many days together, we proceeded to elect office-bearers. The 
gentleman from Fayetteviile was chosen president; the company 



15S 



TRAVELS IN 



conferred on me the honour of being vice-presideilt 5 and thus or- 
ganized we proceeded to the " order of the day." 

Our president, who Wiis called captain, by which title I shall 
hereafter denominate him, was an excellent travelling companion. 
He sung a good song ; told a good story ; and was, withal, very 
iacetious, and abounded in mirth, humour, and jollity. 

He had not long taken the chair, when, with the permission of 
the company, he sung a humorous song, which put us all in good 
spirits. He then proposed that each man in his turn should, when 
called on by the president, sing a song, tell a sto ry, or pay five 
cents; which being unanimously agreed to, was immediately car- 
ried into execution, and called forth a wonderful degree of merri- 
ment and good humour. I found myself a little at a loss, as I 
did not wish to part with my cents, and I had nothing but Scots 
stories and Scots songs ; but I soon found that these were highly sa- 
tisfactory, and that the name of Robert Burns was as well known, 
and as highly esteemed in Virginia, as in Ayrshire. 

Our captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of Mars ; 
and could adapt the technical language of these professions to the 
different movements of the stage, with remarkable facility. When 
the coach heeled to one side, he would call out " To the right 
and left, and cover your flanks — whiz ;" and when we passed a 
stream by a ford, he would sing out, " by the deep nine," ac- 
companied with all the attitudes of heaving the lead. The day 
was clear, pleasant, and healthy ; and in this strain of merriment 
and good humour, we prosecuted our journey much to our satis- 
faction. 

From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a hilly coun- 
try, and but partially cultivated, to Dumfries, a small town con- 
taining about 300 inhabitants, court-house, jail, &c. ; and from 
thence we passed on through a hilly country, but more improved, 
to Fredericksburg, 25 miles, where we stopped for the night. 

Fredericksburg is situated on the south-west side of Rappahan- 
noc river. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one an- 
other at right angles, and consists of about 300 houses, contain- 
ing about 1600 inhabitants. The principal public buildings are an 
episcopal church, an academy, court-house, and jail. It carries 
on a considerable trade, principally in flour and tobacco. 

The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains, by 
two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and Hedgeman 



VIRGINIA. 151) 

river; which unite about 12 miles above this place, and, running 
a south-east course, falls into the Chesapeak bay about 90 mile* 
below Fredericksburg, where it is about three miles broad. It is 
navigable to Fredericksburg, where it has two fathoms water.* 

On Tuesday, the 7th October, we started from Fredericksburg, 
at 1 o'clock in the moraing, and travelled through an uneven 
country, and pretty well cultivated, to Bowhng- Green, 22 miles; 
and a few miles further, we passsed Mattapony river. This river 
rises about 20 miles above where we crossed it, and runs a south- 
east course, about 80 miles, when itjoins the Pamunky river, and 
forms York river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge, 70 miles 
above its mouth.f About 15 miles from this river, we travelled 
through a country nearly similar to that described, but the soil 
rather sandy, to Pamunky river. This river is formed by the 
north and south Anna rivers, which rise in the north-west, about 
50 or 60 miles distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above 
where we crossed. From thence it holds a south-east course, but 
with many windings, about 50 miles, when it forms the junction 
with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is navigable for boats about 
40 miles above where we crossed it. York river is composed of 
these two rivers, and widening to a considerable extent, it passes 
into the Chesapeak bay, by a channel of about three miles. York- 
town is situated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour in 
the state for vessels of the largest size. " The river narrows to 
the width of a mile at York, and is contained within very high 
banks, close under which vessels may ride. It holds four fathom* 
water at high tide for 25 miles above York, where the river is a 
mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fathoms. At the 
confluence of the Pamunky and Mattapony it is reduced lo three 
fathoms deep.":}: York is remarkable as being the place where thQ 
contest with Britain was decided by the capture of lord Cornwallis, 

After crossing this river we passed Hanover court-house, and 
the road proceeds through a country nearly similar to that already 
described, 24* miles, to Richmond, the capital of Virginia, which 
we reached to dinner. In our way we passed Falling creek, a 
branch of James river, after which the country improves, and is 
handsomely settled. The day was very clear, and we had at ono 
place a view of the South-west mountains. 

• Jefferson's Notes on Virginia. | Ibid. \ Joffersofi's Notes. 



160 TRAVELS IN 

Richmond is handsomely situated on James river, immediately 
Taelow the falls. It is a large elegant city, consisting of more than 
1000 houses, and contains about 8000 inhabitants.* The state- 
house stands on an eminence, and is considered the handsomest 
building in the state, having spacious apartments for the meeting 
of the legislature, and commodious rooms for the transaction of the 
public business of the state. The other public buildings are the 
court-house, jail, and theatre, two places for public worship, a 
freemason's hall, and three tobacco warehouses. Richmond is 
situated in a fertile healthy country, and is well supplied with 
provisions ; and it is flourishing in manufactures and commerce. 
There is an armoury in the neighbourhood, said to be the best 
in the United States. The city is remai'kably well situated for 
mill-seats; some of the finest flour-mills in the state have lately 
been erected, and the quantity of flour manufactured annually is 
immense. There are also rolling and slitting-mills, oil-mills, and 
several others ; and several extensive distilleries and breweries. 
Richmond carries on a considerable trade, principally in to- 
bacco and flour, with many places of the United States, particu- 
larly New York, which in return supplies it with dry goods and 
groceries. The inhabitants hercjlike those in the sea-ports, are 
mostly dressed in British manufactures, and are very gay. They 
look remarkably well, and the ladies, of whom we only had a glance 
as we passed through the city, appeared very handsome. 

Some nails in my portmanteau having given way, I carried it 
to a saddler to get it repaired ; and on my return to the tavern, I 
found a native of Perth, to whom I had sent a message, waiting 
for me ; and what with conversation about the place of our nativi- 
ty, the importunity of the stage-driver, and the humour of our 
merry captain, I was almost short s1nj)t of a dinner. Having 
finished my repast as rapidly as I could, I took my place in the 
stage, and we set out for Petersburg. 

Several of the passengers had left us at Richmond ; but as we 
took up two or three gentlemen who were returning from a liorse- 
race, the stage was still full; and we continued our regulatiozis, 
which our new members assented to with great cordiality. 

On leaving the city, we passed James River by a long wooden 
bridge, at which each of the passengers had to pay toll, a circum- 

• Bv tlie census of 1810, Ihe number is 9735. 



VIRGINIA. 161 

Stance I never saw before, it being common to lay the toll on 
the carriage only. The scenery at this place was very beautiful. 

James River is one of the most important in the state of Vir- 
ginia. It rises near the Allegany Mountains, nearly 200 miles 
west from Richmond, and pursuing a course to the eastward, runs 
through all the other chains, passes Richmond, and receives the wa- 
ters of the Appomatox about 25 miles below that city. From thence 
it exhibits a curious appearance, widening and contracting alernate- 
ly, and, by a crooked passage of about 70 miles, falls into Chesa- 
peak Bay, 1 5 miles to the westward of Cape Henry; its whole length* 
including its windings, being upwards of 300 miles. The principal 
tributary streams to this river are the Rivannah, on which is Monti- 
cello, the seat of president Jefferson, the Appomattox, the Chick- 
ahomany, the Nansemond, and the Elizabeth, on which last is 
Norfolk. " The whole of Elizabeth River is a harbour, and 
would contain upwards of 300 ships. The channel is from 150 to 
200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet water to 
Norfolk. The Nansemond is navigable to Sleepy Hole for ves- 
sels of 250 tons ; to Suffolk for those of 100 tons ; and to Milner's 
for those of 25. Chickahomany has at its mouth a bar, on which is 
only 1 2 feet water at common flood tide. Vessels passing that, 
may go 8 miles up the river; those of 10 feet water may go 4 
miles further ; and those of 6 tons burden 20 miles further. The 
Rivannah is navigable for canoes and batteaux 22 miles, to the 
South-west Mountains, and may be easily opened to navigation 
through these mountains to its fork above Charlottesville."* 

" James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in 
Hampton Road, but not in safety through the winter ; and there 
is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry Island. A 40 gun 
ship goes to Jamestown, and, lightening herself, may pass to 
Harrison's Bar, on which there is only 15 feet water. Vessels 
of 250 tons may goto Warwick; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a 
mile below Richmond ; from thence is about 7 feet water to 
Richmond ; and about the centre of the town, 4^ feet, where the 
navigation is interrupted by fliUs, wjiich, in a course of 6 miles, 
descend about 80 feet perpendicular. Above these, it is resumed 
in canoes and batteaux, and is prosecuted safely to within 10 
miles of the Blue Ridge ; and even through the Ridge a ton 

* Jefferson's Notes. 

21 



162 TRAVELS IN 

weight has been brought ; and the expence would not be great, 
when compared with its objects, to open a tolerable navigation up 
Jackson's River and Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of 
Howard's Creek of Greenbriar, both of which have then water 
enough to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future 
state of population, I think it possible that its navigation may also 
be made to interlock with that of the Potomac, and, through that, 
to communicate by a short portage with the Ohio."* 

A company has been incorporated by the state for improving 
the navigation of this river with a capital of 140,000 dollars, of which 
the state owns 50,000 ; and they are bound by the charter to re- 
move all obstructions, so as there may never be less than 12 inches 
of water over all the shoals from the upper end of the lower falls 
to Pattonborough, in the middle of the mountains, and distant 
from Richmond upwards of 200 miles. The company have pro- 
secuted the business with a laudable zeal, and have expended up- 
wards of 200,000 dollars upon it. A canal is drawn from the river 
at the upper end of the falls, and proceeds 200 yards, when it is 
lowered 31 feet, by 3 locks, and again enters the river. From 
thence the navigation is perfect for 3 miles, when another canal 
commences, and runs 3^ miles to a basin at Richmond, where the 
navigation terminates. It was contemplated by the charter to 
continue the canal to the tide water, but the plan is for the pre- 
sent suspended. 

The basin is a mile and a half from the port of Richmond, and 
is 80 feet above tide -water. From the upper end of the great 
falls to the basin the distance is 6| miles, and the descent 48 
feet; making in all 128 feet descent in 8 miles. 

The navigation of the river from above the falls to its extremi- 
ty among the mountains, is considered better than that of any 
of the other Atlantic rivers; and it may be observed that coal is 
foand here in great abundance, a circumstance which occurs no 
where else in the vicinity of tide water, in the United States. 

From Richmond we travelled 25 miles to Petersburg, where 
we stopped for the night. The country I could see but partially, 
as we passed a considerable jxirt of it in the dark. We crossed 
several small streams in our v.ay, and near Petersburg the Appo- 
mattox river before alluded to. 

This liver rises near tl>e mountains, and is in length upwards 

• Jeffereon'g Notes. 



VIRGINIA. 163 

of 100 miles to its junction with James river. " It may be na- 
vigated as far as Broadway's by any vessel which has crossed Har- 
rison's bur, on James river. It keeps eight or ten feet water a mile 
or two higher op to Fisher's bar, and four feet on that, and up- 
wards, where all navigation ceases."* 

Petersburg is situated on the aforesaid river, immediately be- 
low the falls, and is a place of considei'able wealth and importance, 
carrying on a great trade in tobacco and floui', a considerable 
portion of which is with New York. The population, in 1800, 
was 2034; free people, and 14S1 slaves. The population is said 
to be composed principally of Irish people, and they are distin- 
guished for frank liberal manners, and high-spirited patriotism. 

The principal public buildings are, two places for public wor- 
ship, a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall. 

The market is well supplied with provisions ; and there are nu- 
merous mills in and about the town. 

It was past 1 1 o'clock at night before we arrived, and we learn- 
ed that the stage was to set out at one o'clock next mornintr. We 
considered it therefore entirely useless to go to bed, and the captain 
carried me to see some gentlemen of his acquaintance. There were 
six or eight of them, all agreeable young men, most of them Irish- 
men ; and the captain, being intimately acquainted with them, was 
welcomed with much affection, and 1 was cordially taken by the 
hand as his friend, for whom he was pleased to express a parti- 
cular regard. They had a viohn in the room, which was im- 
mediately adjusted to the tune of t/ie Thistle and the Shamrocky\ 
and we had a most harmonious concert of jigs and strathspeys^ 
while Yankee Doodle was not forgotten. The sono-, the senti- 
ment, and the toast followed. " An age could not have made 
us better acquainted," and we united in opinion, that there was 
no country on the face of the earth like this, where people of all 
nations, kindreds, tongues, and languages, could with such hap- 
py facility meet and harmonize in the spirit of unity, and in the 
bond of peace. " But pleasures are like po})pics spread." We 
were in the full exercise and enjoyment of these sentiments when we 
were called away to take our places in the stage, and I left this 
little liberal circle with sentiments of friendly regard. 

October 8, at one o'clock, we left Petersburg. At this early 

* Jefferson's Notes, 
t The reader will not find tliis air in any of the modem English collections. 



164 VIRGINIA. 

hour we could see nothing, but vfc felt that the country was hilly, 
and the road very rough. By the time the day dawned upon us 
we had travelled about 20 miles, and the country appeared pret- 
ty fertile; we saw many flourishing fields of tobacco, but, in con- 
sequence of the long and severe drought, the country exhibited a 
parched appearance. 

At 33 miles frt)m Petersburg we passed Nottaway river, by a 
wooden bridge. This river rises about 50 miles above where we 
crossed it, and running a soutii-cast course, above 100 miles, it 
forms a junction with the Meherrin river, in North Carolina, and, 
throuiih the medium of the Chowan river, falls into Albemarle 
sound. 

At 37 miles from the Nottaway river we crossed the Meherrin. 
The latter part of the distance, the country was much improved, 
and the road good. We now occasionally saw some crops of 
cotton, but the principal produce was tobacco and corn. The 
Meherrin river rises about 60 miles above where we crossed it, 
and running 60 miles more, in a south-east direction, it forms a 
junction with the Nottaway, before mentioned. 

About 12 miles beyond this last mentioned river, we passed the 
l^orth Carolina line, and here I pause to take a view of the gTeat 
and important state of Virginnia. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Virginia. 

x5 EFORE I proceed to give a general account of this state, I 
may notice, that a most important service has been rendered to 
its geography, by the publication of the Notes of Mr. Jefferson ; 
a work replete with valuable information, and exhibiting in every 
page the marks of a vigorous intellect and a philosophic mind. 
This work may be justly considered as the basis of the geography 
of the state of Virginia ; and though, from the progressive nature 
of the subject, it does not now contain the necessary informa- 
tion, on some points, yet the traveller in this state will find it 
a most valuable companion ; and by giving it a careful perusal, 
will be amply rewarded for his trouble. 

" The Notes were written in the year 1781, and somewhat 



VIRGINIA. 165 

corrected and enlarged in 1782, in answer te queries proposed to 
the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M. de Marbois, secre- 
tary of the French legation,) then residing in America." The 
work is arranged on the following plan. 
"1 Boundaries. 13 Constitution. 

2 Rivers. 14 Laws. 

3 Sea-ports. 1 5 Colleges, buildings, and roads. 

4 Mountains. 16 Proceedings as to tories. 

5 Cascades. 17 Religion. 

6 Productions, mineral, vegeta- 18 Manners. 

ble, and animal. 19 Manufactures. 

7 CHmate. 20 Subjects of commerce. 

8 Population. 21 Weights, measures, and money. 

9 Military force. 22 Public revenue. 

10 Marine force. 23 Histories, memorials, and state 

11 Aborigines. papers." 

12 Counties and towns. 

With three numbers of an Appendix. 

It is from this valuable work that the facts exhibited in the 
following short sketch are chiefly taken ; and wherever the brevi- 
ty of the subject would admit, I have given them in Mr. Jeffer- 
son's own elegant language, although I have adhered to my ori- 
ginal arrangement of the various subjects. It may be observed 
here, that since Mr. Jefferson's Notes were compiled, Kentucky 
has been formed into a separate state, which makes a material al- 
teration in the dimensions of the state of Virginia. 

Virginia is situated between 36° 30' and 39° 43' north latitude, 
and 1° east, and 6° 25' west longitude. The extreme length of the 
state from east to west is 442 miles, and the extreme breadth 
from the North Carolina line to the Pennsylvania line is 235 ; 
but it may be observed that there is a small part of the state that 
stretches along the banks of the Ohio, to the west of Pennsylvania, 
about 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and there is 
another small part, about 55 miles long and 12 broad, to the 
east of the Chesapeak. The area is computed at 70,500 square' 
miles, being nearly as large as the whole island of Britain, com- 
puted at 77,243. . The number of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000. 

The face of the country is somewhat assimilated to Pennsyl- 
vania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland. The eastern 
pari extends alcng the sea coast about Il5 miles, of which the outlet 



166 



TRAVELS IN 



of the Chesapeak, already noticed, occupies 20 ; and this elegant 
confluence of waters, so often referred to, forms a great variety 
in this part of the state. From the sea coast to the head of the 
tide waters, about 1 00 miles, the country is mostly level, and a- 
bounds with swamps. From thence to the mountains it is agree- 
ably uneven, and affords delightful prospects. The mountainous 
district is about 100 miles in breadth, and the ridges continue, 
as in Pennsylvania, to range from north-east to south-west. Be- 
yond the mountains the country is much variegated — here swell- 
ing out into considerable hills, — there subsiding into agreeable 
valleys ; and so continues to the Ohio, about 60 miles. The Al- 
legany chain is the ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic 
from the Mississippi, and its summit is more elevated above the 
ocean than that of the others : but its relative height, compared 
with the base on which it stands, is not so great, because the 
country rises behind the successive ridges like steps of stairs. The 
most elevated point does not exceed 4000 feet, and few amount 
to more than 2500. 

The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already noticed ; 
the others are but few. The state is watered to the westward by 
the Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the Great Sandy river forms 
the boundary, for upwards of 100 miles, between it and Kentuc- 
ky. The most important river, to the westward, is the Great 
Kanhaway, " a river of considerable note for the fertility of its 
lands, and still more, as leading towards the head waters of James 
river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numer- 
ous falls will admit a navigation but at an expence to which 
it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great 
obstacles begin at what are called the great falls, 90 miles above 
its mouth, below which are only 5 or 6 rapids, and these passa- 
ble, with some difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to 
the month of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead 
mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth."* 

*' The little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and is 
navigable for 10 miles only."f 

The Shenandoah river rises in the interior of the country, and 
running a north-east course, of about 250 miles, through the 
great Limestone valley, parallel to the mountains, falls into the 

• Jefferson's Notes. | Ibid. 



VIRGINIA. 167 

Potomac just above the Blue Ridge. The junction of the rivers, 
and the passage through the Blue Ridge is said to be one of the 
finest scenes in nature, and is thus elegantly described by Mr. Jef- 
ferson. " You stand on a very high point of land. On your right 
comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the 
mountain an hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches 
the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. — In the moment of their 
junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, 
and pass off to the sea. 

" The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opi- 
nion that this earth has been created in time ; that the mountains 
were formed first ; that the rivers began to flow afterwards ; that, 
in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue 
Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the 
whole valley ; that continuing to rise, they have at length broken 
over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its sum- 
rait to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly 
on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avul- 
sion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corro- 
borate the impression. — But the distant finishing which nature has 
given to the picture is of a very different character. — It is a true 
contrast to the foreground. — It is as placid and delightful as that 
is wild and tremendous. — For the mountain being cloven asunder, 
she presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth 
blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting 
you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around, to pass 
through the breach, and participate of the calm below. Here the 
eye ultimately composes itself; and that way the road happens act- 
ually to lead. — You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass a- 
long its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its 
terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about 
20 miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country around it. 
This scene is worth a voyage across the Atl-antic ; yet there are peo- 
ple who have spent their whole lives within half a dozen of miles, 
and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between 
rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its 
centre.*" 

" The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the fall- 

Jfcfferson's Notes. 



163 



VIRGINIA. 



ing springs in Augusta : it is a water of James river, where it h 
called Jackson's river, rising in the warm spring, and flowing into 
that valley. About three quarters of a mile from its source it falls 
over a rock 200 feet, into the valley below. The sheet of water is 
broken in its breadth by the rock, in two or three places, but not at 
all in its height. Between the sheet and the rock at the bottom 
you may walk across dry."* 

In the limestone country there are many caverns of very consi- 
derable extent. " The most noted is called Madison's cave, and is 
on the north side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the 
Rockingham and Augusta line with the south fork of the southern 
river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpendicular 
height, the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep that you may 
pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. 
The entrance of the cave is, in this side, about two-thirds of the 
way up. It extends into the earth about 300 feet, branching into 
subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more gene- 
rally descending, and at length terminates, in two different places, 
at basins of water of unknown extent, and which 1 should judge 
to be nearly on a level with the water of the river." " The vault 
of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, 
through which the water is continually percolating. This trickling 
down the sides of the cave has incrusted them over in the form of 
elegant drapery ; and dripping from the top of the vault, generates 
on that and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of 
which have met, and formed massive columns."f 

Another of these caves is near the North Mountain in Frederick 
county. " The entrance into this is on the top of an extensive 
wd-Tc. You descend 30 or 40 feet, as into a well, from whence the 

to 

cave then extends, nearly horizontally, 400 feet into the earth, pre- 
servino- a breadth of from 20 to 50 feet, and height of from 5 to 12 
feet. After entering this cave a few feet, the mercury, which was 
,in the open air at 50°, rose to 51° "t 

" At the Panther gap, in the ridge which divides the waters of 
the Cow and Calf Pasture, is what is called the Blowing cave. It 
is in the side of a hill, is of about 100 feet diameter, and emits con- 
stantly a current of air of such force as to keep the weeds prostrate 
for 20 yards before it. It is strongest m dry frosty weather, and 

• jLfFor.on's Jletcfc f lb. t I^- 



vinGiNiA. 1 69 

.weakest in long spells of rain."* " There is another blowing cave 
in the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from the Carolina line."f 

The Natural Bridge, in this state, is one of the most sublime of 
nature's works. " It is on the ascent of a hill, which seems to have 
been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fis- 
sure, just at the bridge, is, by some admeasurements, 270 feet deep, 
by others only 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 
at the top ; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and 
its heiffht from the water. Its breadth in the middle, is about 60 
feet, but more at the ends; and the thickness of the mass, at the 
summit of the arch, about 40 feet. A part of this thickness is con- 
stituted by a coat of earth, which.gives growth to many large trees. 
The residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of lime- 
stone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger 
axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many 
times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this brido-e 
are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few 
men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the a- 
byss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and your feet, creep to 
the parapet and peep over it. Looking down from this height a- 
bout a minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the view from the 
top be painful and intolerable, that from below is deliohtful in an 
equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the 
sublime, to be felt beyond what they are here: so beautiful an arch, 
so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were, up to heaven ! the 
rapture of the spectator is really indescribable. The fissure eoiiti- 
nuing narrow, deep, and straight for a considerable distance above 
and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing view of the 
North Mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge on the other, at the 
distance each of them of about five miles. This brido-e is in the 
count}^ of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and aflbrds a 
public and very commodious passage over a valley which cannot 
be crossed elsewhere for a considerable distance. The stream pass- 
ing under it is called Cedar creek. It is a water of James' river 
and suflicient in the driest seasons to turn a grist-mill, thouoh its 
fountain is not more than two miles above."|. 

There are a great variety of minerals and mineral sprinf^s in the 
state. Iron is very plenty, and several mines of lead have been 

• Jefferson's Notes. f II). j lb. 

22 



no 



VIRGINIA. 



opened. Some copper, black-lead, and precious stones have been 
found, and in one instance gold was discovered. Limestone is 
plenty, and coal is abundant at Richmond, in some places among 
the mountains, and in the western country. Of the mineral springs, 
the warm and hot springs, and the sweet spring, are the most re- 
markable. They are situated near the sources of James river, at 
the foot of the Allegany mountains, about 42 miles apart. They 
are now well known, and much resorted to. There are sulphur 
springs in several places ; and on the Kanhaway river, 67 miles 
from its outlet, there is a very remarkable air spring. The hole 
from which it issues is of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, and the 
current of air so strong " as to give the sand about its orifice the 
motion which it has in a boiling spring. On presenting a lighted 
candle or torch within 18 inches of the hole, it flames up in a 
column of 18 inches in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet in height, ^hicli 
sometimes burns out within 20 minutes, and at other times has 
been known to continue burning for three days, and to have been 
left in that state. The flame is unsteady, of the density of burn- 
ing spirits, and smells like burning pit-coal."* " There is a simi- 
lar spring on Sandy river, the flame of which is a coluum about 
12 inches diameter, and three feet high."f 

The soil in the low part of the state is sandy, except on the 
banks of the rivers, where it is very rich. Between the head of 
the tide-waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, and 
a considerable portion is good. Among the mountains there is a 
great deal of poor land, but it is interspersed with rich valleys. 
Ijcyond the mountains the soil is generally rich and fertile. 

The climate of Virginia is very various, and is subject to great 
and sudden changes. In the greater part of the country below the 
head of the tide- waters, the summers are hot and sultry, and the 
winters mild. From thence to the foot of the mountains the air is 
more pure and elastic, and both summers and winters are several 
degrees of temperature below the low country. Among the 
mountains, the summers are delightful, though sometimes the heat 
is very great. To tiie westward the climate is temperate, the 
suunners being cooler and the winters warmer than on the sea coast. 
Except in the neighbourhood of stagnant waters, in the lov/ coun- 
try, Virginia lia:?, upon the whole, a healthy climate. 

•• JtATersoirs Note« •}■ Il|id. 



VIRGINIA. 171 

The first permanent settlement of Virginia was by the English, 
in 1610. In 1613, a Mr. Rolf married Pocahontas, the daughter 
of Powhatan, an Indian chief, and the connexion was the foun- 
dation for a friendly commerce between the English settlers and 
the Indians. In 1616 the culture of tobacco became general. 
The same year Mr. Rolf and his wife Pocahontas visited England, 
where she was introduced at court, and treated with great respect. 
She died the year following at Gravesend, and left a son, whose 
descendants still survive in Virginia. In 1618 the colony amount- 
ed to upwards of 60,000 people. In 1 784 Virginia appointed 
seven delegates to the first congress, and took a decisive part in 
the war for independence. The state constitution was framed in 
1776, and was the first in the United States. Virginia now sends 
2 senators and 22 representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into an eastern and western district, and 
90 counties. In 1800 it contained a population of 540,353 free 
persons, and 345,796 slaves, in all 886,149; being upwards of 12 
to the square mile. 

There are no towns of any material consequence in Virginia, 
which has been attributed, and probably with reason, to the cir- 
cumstance of the state being so completely intersected with navi- 
gable rivers, that a market is brought almost to every man's door, 
and they have no inducement to establish large cities. , 

Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commercial in the 
state. It contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 7000 inhabi- 
tants, which have since greatly encreased.* It is a place of very 
extended commerce, principally in flour and tobacco, and its com- 
merce and population will probably continue to cncrease for a 
long period. Mr. Jefferson remarks, in his Notes, " that it will 
I probably be the emporium for all the trade of the Chesapcak bay 
and its waters, and a canal of 8 or 10 miles will bi'ing to it all that 
of the Albemarle sound and its waters." The same sentiment was 
expi-esscd in conversation with nic. But it is to be observed, thnt 
the Chesapeak bay and its waters are navigable a long way into 
the interior of the country, in consequence of which, probably no 
single town or city will be the emporium for all the trade; it will 
be divided among many. We accordingly find numerous towns 
upon those waters, many of which have already been noticed; and 
the following may be added. 

"By the census of 1810, they »n:ount to 919"). 



172 VIRGINIA. 

On Rappahannoc, Uibauna, Port Royal, Falmouth. 

On Potomac and its waters, Dumfries, Colchester, Winchcis- 
ter, Staunton. 

On York river and its waters, York, Newcastle, Hanover. 

On James river and its waters, Portsmouth, Hampton, Suffolk, 
Smithfield, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlottesville. 

There is no very important town in the western part of the state. 
"Wheeling, on the Ohio, will probably increase more than any other. 

The state has of late been considerably improved by roads, but 
in that branch much yet remains to be done. The canal contem- 
plated by Mr. Jefferson between the waters of the Chesapeak and 
Albemarle sound has been cut. It is 16 miles in length, and an- 
swers a most valuable purpose. Considerable improvements have 
been made upon the navigation of the Shenandoah river; and 
there are several very important roads and canals projected. As 
to the buildings, Mr. Jefferson remarks, " The genius of architec- 
ture seems to have shed its maledictions over this land. Buildings 
are often erected by individuals at considerable expence. To give 
these symmetry and taste would not increase their cost. It would 
only change the arrangement of the materials, and form the com- 
bination of the members. This would often cost less than the 
burden of barbarous ornaments with which these buildings arc 
sometimes charged. But the first principles of the art are un- 
known, and there exists scarcely a model among us sufficiently 
chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture being one of the fine 
arts, and, as such, within the department of a professor of the 
college, according to the new arrangement, perhaps a spark may 
fall on some young subjects of natural taste, kindle up their genius, 
and produce a reformation in this elegant and useful art." Great 
improvements have doubtless been made since the year 1782, par- 
ticularly in the towns ; but in the country the houses are mostly 
composed of wood, and few of them that I saw had either symme- 
try of design, or elegance of execution to recommend them. 
Upon the whole, on this branch, the Virginians seem to be far be- 
hind their northern neighbours, and there is still much room for 
the exercise of architectural genius. 

The great mass of tlie population in Virginia are farmers, or, 
as they are termed here, planters. The principal branches of 
agriculture for exportation, arc wheat and tobacco; and the farms 
produce in plenty, Indian corn, rye, barley, buck-wheat, &c. 



VIRGINIA. 173 

Hemp and flax are abundant, and considerable quantities of cotton 
are raised in the southern part of the state. Indigo is cultivated 
with success, and the silk -worm is a native of the country, though 
not much attended to. The fields likewise produce potatoes, both 
sweet and common, turnips, parsnips, carrots, pumpkins, and 
groundnuts; and of grasses, there are clovers, red, white, and 
yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue grass, and crab grass. 

The orchards abound in fruit ; apples, pears, peaches, quinces, 
cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and plums. 

The domestic animals thrive well, horses, cows, sheep, hogs, 
poultry ; and there is a great variety of wild game. 

The manufactures of the state are mostly of the domestic kind. 
I have not heard of any established upon a large scale. Hence 
the quantity imported annually from Britain must be immense. 
The principal port in the state being Norfolk, it carries on a vigor- 
ous trade with Europe, in the surplus produce of the state, and 
imports largely of dry goods ; but a great portion of the trade of 
the ?tate is carried on through the medium of other places, par- 
ticularly New York. 

The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 5,606,620 dol- 
lars, of which the greater part was domestic produce; but as no part 
of the produce sent to other states is included in the custom-house 
returns, I should be inclined to estimate the surplus produce at nearly 
double that amount, and then- imports, principally of manufactures, 
at nearly as much, of which probably one half is from Britain. 

The Notes on Virginia contain ample information on the state 
of society. Mr. Jefferson considers that it is materially affected 
by the existence of slavery. " There must doubtless," says he, 
*' be an unhappy influence on the manners of our people by the 
existence of slavery among us. The whole commerce between 
master and slave is a perpetual exercise of the most boisterous 
passions, the most unremitting despotism on the one part, and 
degrading submissions on the other. Our children see this, and 
learn to imitate it ; for man is an imitative animal. This quality 
is the germ of all education in him: from his cradle to his grave, 
he is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent could 
find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his self-love, for 
restraining the intemperance of passion towards his slave, it 
bhould always be a sufiicient one that his child is present. But 
generally it is not sufficient. The parent storms, the child looks 



174 VIEGINIA. 

on, catches the lineaments of wrath, puts on the same airs in the 
circle of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions, and 
thus nursed, educated, and exercised in tyranny, cannot but be 
stamped by it with odious peculiarities. The man must be a 
prodigy who can retain his manners and morals undepraved by 
such circumstances. And with what execration should the states- 
man be loaded, wlio, permitting one half of the citizens thus to 
tram}:)le on the rights of the other, transforms those into despots, 
and these into enemies, destroys the morals of the one jjart, and 
the amor pair ice of the other. For if a slave can have a country 
in this world, it must be any other in preference to that in which 
he is born to live and labour for another; in which he must lock 
lip the faculties of his nature, contribute as far as depends on 
his individual endeavours to the enslavement of the human race, 
or entail his own miserable condition on the endless generations 
proceeding from him. With the morals of the people their indus- 
try also is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will la- 
bour for himself who can make another labour for him. This 
js so true, that of the proprietors of slaves a very small propor- 
tion indeed are ever seen to labour. And can the liberties of a 
nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm 
basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties 
are the gift of God ? that they are not to be violated but with 
his wrath ? Indeed I tremble for my country when I reflect that 
God is just; that his justipe cannot sleep for ever; that consi- 
dering numbers, nature, and natural means only, a revolution of 
the wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation, is among possi- 
ble events ; that it may become probable by supernatural inter" 
ference ! The Almighty has no attribute that can take side with 
us in such a contest. — But it is impossible to be temperate, and 
to pursue this subject through the various considerations of poli- 
cy, of morals, of history natural and civil. We must be con- 
tented to hope they will force their way into every one's mind. I 
think a change already perceptible, since the origin of the present 
revolution. The spirit of the master is abating; that of the slave 
rising from the dust, his condition mollifying, the way, I hope, 
preparing, under the auspices of Heaven, for a total emancipation ; 
and that this is disposed, in the order of events, to be with the 
consent of die masters, rather than by their extirpation." 

Thi? elegant extract, which I could not think of abridging, 



VIRGINIA. 175 

does honour to the head and heart of its author ; and it is pro- 
bable, from the great reputation which he holds among his 
countrymen, that it may have produced a considerable effect in 
assuaging the evils of slavery. Virginia has long since prohibited 
the importation of slaves, and has by her members in congress, 
always supported the question for a total prohibition of that 
branch, the most odious feature in it. And it is but justice here 
to observe, that the introduction of slavery in this, and in the 
other state^, was a part of the ■policxj of the colonial system. 
Had it not unfortunately taken place before the revolution, it is 
probable it never would have taken place; for almost every person, 
with whom 1 have conversed on the subject, have expressed their 
opinion, that it is not only hurtful to public morals, but contrary 
to every maxim of sound policy. But it exists ; it is incorporated 
with the whole sytem of civil society; its influence has extended 
through every branch of domestic economy ; and to do it away 
must be a work of time. 

There are two colleges in the state ; one of them the college of 
William and Mary, very liberally endowed. There are several 
academies, and schools in each county ; and there are numerous 
teachers in private families, as tutors. The means, in short, for 
educating the wealthy are ample, and extensively applied; but 
the sytem seems to be defective, so far as the mass of the people 
are concerned, and that important branch deserves the early at- 
tention of an enlightened legislature. 

At the period of the revolution, Virginia being the first state 
that drew up a new constitution, it was necessarily crude and un- 
digested ; and much of the old leaven remained. The subject of 
religion, in particular, was not placed on that footing of perfect 
freedom which is the natural heritage of man, the gift of nature's 
God; and the subject affords Mr. Jefferson scope for the followinc^ 
remarks: " By our act of assembly of 1705, c. 30, if a person, 
brought up in the Christian religion, denies the being of a God, 
or the Trinity, or asserts there are more Gods than one, or de- 
nies the christian religion to be true, or the Scriptures to be of 
divine authority, he is punishable for the first offence by incapa- 
city to hold any office or employment, ecclesiastical, civil, or mili- 
tary ; on the second, by disability to sue, to take any gift or Ic^i-a- 
cyy to he guardian f executor, or administrator, and by three years 
imprisonment vithout bail. A father's right to the custody of 



J'^C VIRGINIA. 

his own children being founded, in law, on his right of guardian^ 
skip, this being taken away, tlicy may, of course, be severed from 
him, and put, by the authority of a court, into more orthodox 
hands. This is a suminary view of that rcHgious slavery, under 
which a people have been willing to remain, who have lavished 
their lives and fortunes for the establishment of civil freedom. 
The error seems not sufficiently eradicated, that the operations of 
the mind, as well as the acts of the body, are subject to the coer- 
cion of the laws. But our rulers can have authority over i,nch 
natural rights only as wc have suijmitted to them. The rights 
of conscience we never submitted, we could not submit. We are 
answerable for them to our God. The legitimate powers of go- 
vernment extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. 
But it does me no injustice for my neighbour to say, there are 
twenty Gods, or no God. It neither picks my pocket, nor breaks 
my leg. If it be said, his testimony in a court of justice cannot be 
relied on, reject it then, and be the stigma on him. Constraint 
may make him worse, by making him a hypocrite 5 but it will never 
make him a truer man. It may fix him obstinately in his errors, 
but will not cure them. Reason and free inquiry are the only effec- 
tual agents against error. Give a loose to them, they will sup- 
port the true religion, by bringing every false one to their tribunal, 
to the test of investigation. They are the natural enemies of error, 
and of error only. Had net the Roman government permitted 
free inquiry, Christianity could never have been introduced. Had 
not free inquiry been indulged at the era of the reformation, the 
corruptions of Christianity could not have been purged away. If 
it be restrained now, the present corruptions will be protected, 
and new ones encouraged. Was the government to prescribe to 
us our medicine and diet, our bodies would be in such keeping 
as our souls are now. Tims, in France, the emetic was once for- 
bidden as a medicine, and the potatoc as an article of food. Go- 
vernment is just as infallible, too, when it fixes systems in phy- 
sics. Galileo was sent to the inquisition for affirming, that the 
earth was a sphere. The government had declared it to be as 
flat as a trencher, and Galileo was obliged to abjure his error. 
This error, however, at length prevailed ; the earth became a 
globe; and Descartes declared, it whirled round its axis by a 
vortex. The govenment in which he lived was wise enough to 
see that this was no question of civil jurisdiction, or we should 



VIRGINIA. 



177 



all have been involved by authority in vortices. In fact, the vor- 
tices have been exploded, and the Newtonian principle of gravi- 
tation is now more firmly estabhshed, on the basis of reason, than 
it would be were the government to step in, and make it an arti- 
cle of necessary faith. Reason and experiment have been indtd^,- 
ed, and error has fled before them. It is error alone which heeds 
the support of government. Truth can stand by itself. Subject 
opinion to coercion, whom will you make your inquisitors? Falli- 
ble men; men governed by bad passions, by private as well as 
pubhc reasons. And why subject it to coercion ? To produce uni- 
formity. But is uniformity of opinion desirable? No more than 
the face and stature. Introduce the bed of Procrustes then, and, 
as there is danger that the large man may beat the small, make 
US all of a size, by lopping the former, and stretching the latter 
Difterence of opinion is advantageous in religion. The several 
sects perform the oflice of a censor monim over each other. Is 
uniformity attainable? Millions of innocent men, women, and 
children, since the introduction of Christianity, have been burnt, 
tortured, fined, imprisoned; yet we have not advanced one inch 
towards uniformity. What has been the effect of coercion ? lo 
make one half of the world fools, and the other hypocrites ; to 
support roguery and error all over the earth. Let us reflect that 
it is inhabited by a thousand millions of people; that they pro- 
fess probably a thousand difterent systems of religion ; that ours 
is but one of that thousand; that, if there be but one right, and 
ours that one, we would wish to see nine hundred and ninety-nine 
wandering sects gathered into the fold of truth. But against such 
a majority, we cannot effect this by force. Reason and persua- 
sion are the only practicable instruments. To make way for these, 
■free inquiry must be indulged; and how can we wish others to 
indulge it, while we refuse it ourselves ? But every state, says an 
inquisitor, has established some religion. No two, say I, have 
established the same. Is this a proof of the infallibility of estab- 
lishments? Our sister states of Pennsylvania and New York, how- 
ever, have long subsisted without any establislimcnt at all. The 
experiment waS new and doubtful when they made it. It has an- 
swered beyond conception. They flourish infinitely. Religion is 
well supported ; of various kinds, indeed, but all good enough : 
nil sufficient to preserve peace and order. Or, if a sect arises, 
whose tenets would subvert morals, good sense has fair play, and 

23 



^'8 VIRGINIA. 

reasons and laughs it out of doors, without suffering the state to be 
troubled with it. They do not hang more malefactors than we do. 
They are not more disturbed with religious dissentions. On the 
contrary, their harmony is unparalleled, and can be ascribed to 
nothing but their unbounded tolerance, because there is no other 
circumstance in which they differ from every other nation on earth. 
They have made tlie happy discovery that the way to silence reli- 
gious disputes is to take no notice of them. Let us, too, give this 
experiment fair play, and get rid, while we may> of these tyrannical 
laws." 

Theexpeiimenthas been tried, and has succeeded. — An act pass- 
ed the Virginia Assembly, in the beginning of 1786, in M'hich it is ' 
declared, that, being " well aware that Almighty God hath created 
the mind free ; that all attempts to influence it by temporal punish^ 
mcnts or burthens, or by civil incapacitations, tend only to beget 
habits of hypocrisy and meanness, and are a departure from the 
plan of the holy Author of our religion, who being Lord over 
both body and mind, yet chose not to propagate it by coercions in 
either, &c. — Bo it therefore enacted by the General Assembly, 
That no man shall be compelled to frequent or support any reli- 
gious worship, place, or ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced, 
restrained, molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall 
otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; but 
that all men shall be free to profess, and by arguments to maintain 
their opinions in matters of religion, and that the same shall in no 
wise diminish, enlarge, or affect their civil capacities." 

The following are the outlines of the form of state government : 
*' The executive pov/ers are lodged in the hands of a governor, 
chosen annually, and incapable of acting any more than three years 
in seven. He is assisted by a council of eight members. The ju- 
diciary powers are divided among several courts. Legislation is ex. 
ercised by two houses of assembly, the one called the House of De- 
legates, composed of two members from each county, chosen annu- 
ally by the citizens possessing an estate for life in 100 acres of un- 
inhabited land, or 25 acres with a house and lot on it, or a house or 
lot in some town. The other, called the Senate, consisting of 24 
members, chosen quadrennially by the same electors, who, for this 
purpose, arc distributed into 2-it districts. The concurrence of both 
houses is necessary to the passage of a law : they have the appoint- 
inent of the governor and council, the judges of the superior courts, 



II 



VIRGINIA." 179 

auditors, attorney-general, treasurer, register of the land-office, and 
delegates to congress." 

I have bestowed considerable pains to make myself master of the 
geography and political importance of this state, because from its 
situation and extent it must necessarily have a great influence on the 
body politic of the United States. It is, the largest state in the U- 
nion, and has given two presidents, out of three, to the United 
States. It is geographically central, and from its position must ne- 
cessarily include or be contiguous to the seat of the general so- 
vernment, while the states remain in their present united form. Per- 
haps, too, it may be the best situation for foi'ming a general theory 
of the climate of the United States ; and probably Monticello, the 
seat of Mr. Jefferson, may be one of the best positions in Virginia 
for making experiments, and contrasting them with those made in 
other places ; and Mr. Jefferson has in a veiy laudable manner a- 
vailed himself of this advantage. 

As Mr. Jefferson's Notes are well known, and may be considered 
as containing authentic information on many important topics re- 
ktive to this his native state, I have indulged myself by makino- co- 
pious extracts on the particular subjects to which they had refer- 
ence ; and I shall now close this article by a few more miscellane- 
ous subjects, which I consider not only as valuable in themselves, 
but very important, as containing Mr. Jefferson's opinions on seve- 
i-al points of political economy. 

On Government, 

The following extracts are from the draft of a fundamental con- 
stitution for the commonwealth of Virginia. 

" The said state shall for ever hereafter be governed as a com- 
monwealth. 

" The power of government shall be divided into three distinct 
departments, each of them to be confided to a separate body of ma- 
gistracy" — legislative— judiciary — and executive. 

" The legislature shall consist of two branches, the one to be call- 
ed the house of delegates, the other the senate — and both the ge- 
neral assembly. 

*' The delegates to be elected annually ; the senators biennially, 
and one half to vacate their seats each year. 

" All free male citizens, of full age, and sane mind, who for one 
year before shall have been resident in the county, or shall through 



180 VIRGINIA. 

the whole of that time have possessed thereui real property of the 
value of , or shall for the same time have been enrolled in the 

militia, and no others, shall have a right to vote for delegates for 
the said county, and for senatorial electors for the district. They 
shall give their votes personally, and viva voce. 

" The executive power shall be exercised b}^ a governor, who 
shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses of assembl}', and when 
chosen shall remain in office five years, and be ineligible a second 
time. 

" A council of state shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses 
of assembly, who shall hold their offices seven years, and be ineligi~ 
ble a second time. Their duty shall be to attend and advise the go- 
vernor : they shall annually choose a president, who shall preside 
in council in absence of the governor, and who, in .case of his office 
becoming vacant by death, or otherwise, shall have authority to ex- 
ercise all his functions, till a new appointment be made. 

" The judiciary shall be exercised by county courts, and such o- 
thcr inferior courts as the legislature shall think proper to continue 
or to erect; by three superior courts, to wit, a court of admiralty, 
a general court of common law, and a high court of chancery ; and 
by one supreme court, to be called the court of appeals. 

" The governor, two counsellors of state, and a judge from each 
of the superior courts of chancery, common law and admiralty, shall 
be a council to revise all bills which shall have passed both houses of 
assembly. 

" The military shall be subordinate to the civil power. 

" Printing presses shall be subject to no other restraint than li- 
ableness to legal prosecution for false facts printed and published." 

On the Importation of Foreigneis. 

" But are there no inconveniencies to be thrown into the scale a- 
gainst the advantage expected from a multiplication of numbers, by 
the importation of foreigners ? It is for the happiness of those united 
in society to harmonize as much as possible in matters which they 
must of necessity transact together. Civil government being the 
sole object of forming societies, its administration must be conduct- 
ed by common consent. Every species of government has its spe- 
cific principles. Ours periiaps are more peculiar than those of any 
other in the universe. It is a composition of the freest principles 
of the English constitution, with others derived from natural right 



VIKGINIA. 181 

and natural reason. To these nothing can be more opposed than 
the maxims of absolute monarchies. Yet from such we are to ex- 
pect the greatest number of emigrants. They will bring with them 
the principles of the governments they leave, imbibed in their early 
youth ; or if able to throw them off, it will be in exchange for an 
unbounded licentiousness, passing, as is usual, from one extreme to 
another. It would be a miracle were they to stop precisely at the 
point of temperate liberty. These principles, with their language, 
they will transmit to their children. In proportion to their num- 
bers, they will share with us the legislation. They will infuse into 
it their spirii, warp and bias its direction, and render it a heteroge- 
neous, incoherent, distracted mass. I may appeal to experience 
during tlie present contest, for a verification of these conjectures." 
After a few other reflections, Mr. Jefferson adds — " If they come 
of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights of citizenship; but 
I doubt the expediency of inviting them by extraordinary encou- 
ragements. I mean not that these doubts should extend to useful 
artificers. The policy of that measure depends on very different 
considerations. Spare no expense in obtaining them. They will 
after a while go to the plough and the hoe; but, in the mean tune, 
they will teach us something we do not know. It is not so in agri- 
culture : the dilTerent state of that among us does not proceed from 
a want of knowledge merely ; it is from our having such quantities 
of land, to waste as we please. In Europe the object is to make the 
most of their land — labour being abundant : here, it is to make the 
most of our labour — land beint; abundant." 

On Mamifactures, Agriculture, and Commerce. 

" We never had an interior trade of any importance. Our ex- 
terior commerce has suffered very much from the beginnino- of the 
present contest. During this time we have manufactured within 
our families the most necessary articles of clothing. Those of 
cotton will bear some comparison v;ith the same kinds of manufac- 
ture in Europe ; but those of wool, flax, and hemp are very coarse, 
-unsightly, and unpleasant : and such is our attachment to agricul- 
ture, and such our preference for foreign manufactures, that, be it 
wise or unwise, our people will certainly return as soon as they 
can, to the raising raw materials, and exchanging them for finer 
manufactures than they are able to execute themselves. 

" The political economists of Europe have established it as a 



182 VIRGINIA. 

principle that every state should endeavour to manufacture for 
itself; and this principle, like many others, we transfer to Ameri- 
ca, without calculating the difference of circumstance which should 
often produce a different result. In Europe, the lands are either 
cultivated, or locked up against the cultivator. Manufacture must 
therefore be resorted to of necessity, not of choice, to support the 
surplus of their people. But we have an immensity of land, court- 
ing the industry of the husbandman. Is it best then that all our citi- 
zens should be employed in its improvemcnt,or that one half should 
be called off from that to exercise manufactures and handicraft 
arts for the other ? Those who labour in the earth are the 
CHOSEN PEOPLE OF GoD, if cvcr he had a chosen people, whose 
breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine 
virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps alive that sacred fire, 
which otherwise might escape from the face of the earth. Corrup- 
tion of morals in the mass of cultivators, is a phenomenon of which 
no age nor nation has furnished an example. It is the mark set 
on those, who, not looking up to heaven, to their own soil and 
industry, as does the husbandman, for their subsistence, depend 
for it on the casualties and caprice of customers. Dependence be- 
gets subservience and venality, suffocates the germ of virtue, and 
prepares fit tools for the designs of ambition. This, the natural 
progress and consequence of the arts, has sometimes perhaps been 
retarded by accidental circumstances : but, generally speaking, 
the proportion which the aggregate of the other classes of the 
citizens bears in any state to that of its husbandmen, is the pro- 
portion of its unsound to its healthy parts, and is a good enough 
barometer whereby to measure its degree of corruption. While 
we have land to labour, then, let us never wish to see our citizens 
occupied at a work-bench, or twirling a distaff. Carpenters, 
masons, and smiths are wanted in husbandry ; but for the general 
operations of manufacture, let our work-shops remain in Europe. 
It is better to carry provisions and materials to workmen there, 
than to bring them to the provisions and materials, and with them 
their manners and principles. The loss by the transportation of 
commodities across the Atlantic will be made up in happiness and 
permanence of government. The mobs of great cities add just so 
much to the support of pure government, as sores do to the strength 
of the human body. It is the manners and spirit of a people 
which preserve a republic in vigour. A degeneracy in these is a 
canker, which soon eats to the heart of its laws and constitution." 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



1S3 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Warrento?i, — Raleigh^ — Fayetteville. 

J. WO miles from where we entered the state of North Carolina, 
we crossed the Roanoke river by a flat-bottomed boat. The banks 
where we crossed were steep and well wooded ; the soil rich and 
fertile. 

The Roanoke is composed of two principal streams, the Dan 
and Staunton, which rise in the mountains, and unite in the state 
of Virginia, about 45 miles above where we crossed it. From 
thence it runs a pretty crooked passage, but nearly south-east, 80 
miles, to where it falls into Albemarle sound, by four different 
channels, near the outlet of the Chowan river. It is navigable 
nearly 30 miles for vessels of considerable size, and for boats of 
from 20 to 40 tons to the falls, 70 miles from its mouth. The 
land is said to be very rich on the banks of this river, and many 
wealthy planters live on it. 

We travelled 16 miles, partly alorg the banks of the river, to 
Warrenton, where we stopped for the night. The country was fer- 
tile and well improved ; the weather cloudy and rather cold. 

Warrenton is a neat little town, containing about 300 inhabi- 
tants, who look well, and are said to be mostly Europeans. The 
town stands on a high dry situation, and is said to be health v. 
There is a very respectable academy, at Avhich there are generally 
60 or 70 students. 

Thursday, October 9th. We left Warrenton at 5 o'clock in the 
morning, and travelled 25 miles, through a level, sandy country, 
to Louisburg, an inconsiderable village on the banks of the Tar 
river, which we crossed at this place. 

Tar river is a considerable stream, rising about 30 miles above 
where we crossed it, and, running about 150 miles in a south east 
direction, falls into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable about 30 
miles to Washington, and from thence for flats to Tarborough, 90 
miles from its outlet. 

From hence we travelled 16 miles, the country sandy, and hav- 
ing a barren aspect, but the road pretty good, to Nuse river, which 
we passi,d by a ferry. 

Nuse river rises about 40 miles above where we crossed, and. 



1S4' TRAVELS IN 

ruiuj'ng a south-east course about 220 miles, falis also into Pamli- 
coe sound. It is navigable for sea-vessels 12 miles above Newbern, 
for flats 50 miles further, and for small boats nearly 200 miles from 
its outlet. 

About eight miles, through a country a little more fertile and 
better improved, we reached Raleigli, and here we stopped for the 
night. The principal produce in the country through which we 
passed this day, is cotton and Indian corn. The weather was 
cloudy, with a shower of rain. 

Raleigh, the seat of government of North Carolina, is situ- 
ated in north latitude 35° 56', and is nearly in the centre of the 
state, being 160 miles from the sea-coast. The plan of the city is 
regular, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and there 
is a large square in the middle for the public buildings. 

Raleigh contained, by the census of 1800, 334< free persons and 
335 slaves. The state-house cost above 15,000 dollars. There 
are no other public buildings of importance, and the greater part 
of the other buildings being of wood, the place exhibits no very 
flattering appearance. They have a little trade in cotton and 
tobacco. 

Friday, 10th. We set out from Raleigh at 4 o'clock in the 
morning. The passengers had now all dispersed in different di- 
rection?, except the captain and myself. We had the stage to our- 
selves, and were as merry as ever. But there were few objects ex- 
teriorly to excite attention, or elicit remark. The country was 
one continued dull scene of sand and pine barrens. Now and then 
we passed a few piles of wood, collected for the purpose of making 
tar ; and the streams we cro^^sed generally looked as if they had 
been at tar-making too, being nearly as black as that commodity. 
The elements indicated a change of weather, and recollecting the 
highlandman's prognostication, " Io?ig fair long fonl," 1 felt by 
anticipation a dreary tail to my journey after my agreeable friend 
would leave me, and we had only this day to travel in company. 

In this mood I travelled 25 miles to Black river ; and continuing 
our course through a similar country, we came to a small place 
called Avereysborough, soon after which we passed Cape Fear 
river. 

Cape Fear river is the most considerable stream in North Ca- 
rolina. It rises about 100 miles above Fayetteville, and running 
a south-east direction, upwards of 200 miles, falls into the Adan- 



NORTH CAROLINA. 185 

tic ocean, at Cape Fear, which gives it its name. It is about 
three miles wide at its outlet, and there is 18 feet on the bar at 
high water. It is navigable for vessels drawing 10 or 11 feet, to 
Wilmington ; by sloops 25 miles above Wilmington ; and by boats 
to Fayetteville. Having crossed this river, we proceeded, nearly 
along its western bank, 35 miles to Fayetteville, which we reach- 
ed about 7 o'clock. 

Here my agreeable travelling companion, who was a very re- 
spectable merchant in the place, invited me to his house, and 
showed me every degree of hospitality. As no passengers were 
going on, he urged me to spend a couple of days with him, and 
as an inducement, promised to introduce me to a Scots liighlander, 
•who played delightfully on the bagpipes. I was, however, urgent 
to be home, ant! resisted all entreaty. But finding that my funds 
would not hold out till I reached Charleston, I availed myself of 
his friendship to get a small supply, till I could remit from thence, 
with which having furnished me, together with letters of introduc- 
tion to some of his friends in that city, we parted with mutual 
good wishes. 

Fayetteville coxii^m?, about 1800 inhabitants, is a place of con- 
siderable trade, and is rising in wealth and importance. The 
public buildings are handsome ; and there are a considerable num- 
ber of mills, distilleries, breweries, and tan-yards. The principal 
produce, carried to Wilmington market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, 
cotton, flaxseed, and provisions. 

The country round Fayetteville is generally sandy, but there 
are rich lands on the banks of the river, and the country is esteem- 
ed pretty healthy. A great many emigrants from Scotland are 
settled in the neighbourhood. 

Saturday, 11th. The stage started this moi'ning at 5 o'clock, 
and I was the only passenger. The country became more and 
more dismal, and was very thinly inhabited. The day was rainy, 
damp, and disagreeable ; the creeks swelled beyond their natural 
limits, which made crossing very difficult ; and the people looked 
pale and sickly. Every thing conspired to throw me into a gloomy 
reverie. At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we 
had to unloose the horses and drag over the stage On roachinn- 
Lumberton, 33 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for the night, 
at the house of a very intelligent and inquisitive Yankee. 

24. 



1S6 TRAVELS IN 

Lumberton, he told nic, consisted of 33 houses, and contained 
164 white peojile, and 44 blacks. He said the place was healthy; 
but judging from the countenances of the inhabitants, I would 
liave thought otherwise. As to the food, it did not suit my palate 
at all. It consisted of bacon and brown bread, both of a very 
sable colour, and for drink we had Jie^.v peach brandy as hot as 
pepper. 

Sunday, 12th. It is customary for the stage to stop all Sun- 
day; but having made a short journey yesterday, in consequence 
of the badness of the weather and roads, we had to make up 
the distance this day; and we set forward on our journey at 
9 o'clock. The country became still more dismal, and the creeks 
were more swelled, so that we prosecuted our journey with great 
difficulty ; and at length we met with an accident which proved 
fatal to one of the horses. We came to a creek, with a bridge in 
a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber ; three large 
logs were stretched across the creek, called sleepers, and these 
supported a number of mis-shapen pieces, called rafters, thrown 
on at random, without being fixed by either nails or pins. They 
liad been disturbed by the freshet in the creek, and the driver 
alighted to adjust them. He then drove on; but on entering the 
bridge, the fore-wheels gathered the rafters in a heap, which stop- 
ped the progress of the carriage; and this happened just as the 
driver was in the act of whipping up the fore-horses. They sprung 
forward, and, disengaging themselves with a jerk, by pulling out 
the staple of the main swingletree, they set od' full speed, the 
swingletrecs rattling at their heels. We alighted, took out the 
other two horses, and dragged the stage over ourselves ; when, 
nutting in the horses, we moved forward, and half a mile from 
the creek we found one of the fore-horses lying nearly dead, at the 
side of a tree. It appeared that one was stronger than the other, 
and had pulled him off the road into the v/oods, when, dashing 
ao^ainst a tree, the poor animal had got his death blow. I calcu- 
lated tliat the bridge could have been put into a substantial state 
lor five dollars; and this single accident would be a loss of at 
kas^t 150. 

A few mlics beyond this we reached the stage, where we dined. 
Cur dinner, as at Lumberton, was black bacon ,■ our drink, ?iexv 
peach brandy. But our troubles were only beginning. A mile 
from where -we dined v>'e had to cross Ashpole swamp, about one- 



NORTH CAROLINA. 187 

third of a mile in breadth ; and here I met with something new. 
We swam across in the stage, and it was with difficulty that I 
preserved the mail from a very complete soaking. When I ob- 
served the fore-horses }>lunge, I called out to the driver whether 
wfi must swim ? " O yes," says he, " swim away through thick 
and thin." I requested that he would remove the mail to a higher 
seat. He was not for losing time. I insisted I might be allowed 
to remove my trunk; and this being gi-anted, I prevailed on him 
to assist me in moving the mail also : which having done, he dash- 
ed right through the creek. 

Soon after this we passed the boundary line of South Carolina, 
20 miles from Lumberton, at which I gladly pause to take a gene- 
ral review of the state. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

North Carolina 

Is situated between north latitude 33° 47' and 36° 30', and 1° 
east and 6° 45' west longitude. lis greatest length, from east to 
west, is 472, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, is 188 
miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or 32,320,000 acres. 

The face of the country is much diversified. To the east, and 
south-east, there is a sea-coast of nearly 300 miles, indented with 
a great number of bays, the principal of which are Albemarle and 
Pamlicoe sounds, which receive the greater part of the rivers. 
On the outside of these sounds are some of the most remarkable 
capes in America, Cape Hatteras, and Capo Look-out, and to 
the southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below the head 
of tide water, about 100 miles into the interior, is low and sandy, 
abounding in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of 
having been at one period overflowed by the sea. The country 
from the head of the tide waters, towardsthe mountains, is agree- 
ably uneven, and much improved in value. Among the mountains 
it is exactly similar to the state of Virginia ; but being a few degrees 
to the south, the value of the country is improved, and the sea- 
sons in that district are delightful. 

The state is, upon the whole, well watered. The rivers fall 
into the Atlantic Ocean, and have been all noticed, except some 



188 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



to the southward, which I shall have to cross in my way to 
Charleston. 

It is supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable mine- 
rals, particularly in the mountainous district. Iron ore is very 
plenty, and gold has been found in considerable quantilies. There 
are various mineral springs. 

The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of Virginia. 
The low part of the state, which is a considerable portion of it, 
is low, sandy, and barren, abounding in pine trees; and the 
swamps, which are very large, produce cedars and bay trees. 
There are, in this district, good tracts of meadow land along the 
rivers, which are well cultivated, and produce abundantly. From 
the head of the tide waters to the mountains, the soil improves, 
and is very various. The mountainous district is very similar to 
that in Virginia. 

The climate in the low country is subject to great and sudden 
changes, and is often unhealthy in the fall. Generally, the win- 
ters are mild, but very cliangeable. The spring is early, but sub- 
ject to occasional frosts. The summers are hot and sultry, and 
the autumns are serene and beautiful ; but the exhalations from 
the decaying vegetable matter in the marshes and swamps are 
very injurious to health. In the upper country, the weather is 
more settled, and, being free from swamps, is healthy. Among 
the mountains, the climate is remarkably pleasant. 

The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is con- 
siderably lost in obscurity. In 1710, it contained about 1200 
fencible men, when the first permanent settlement was made, un- 
der the direction of the proprietors of South Carolina. In 1728, 
the proprietors having sold their right to the crown, it was erected 
into a roval government. The inhabitants took an early and de- 
cisive part in the war for indcpendecc, and the state suffered very 
severelv. In 1774, they appointed three delegates to the first 
cono-ress, and adopted a state constitution in 1776. It now sends 
two senators and twelve representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties. The 
population, in 1800, was 478,103, of whom 133,296 were slaves, 
being upwards of 10 persons to the square mile. 

The state has made considerable improvements in agriculture, 
commerce, and national wealth ; but it exhibits a barren prospect 



NORTH CAROLINA. 189 

! to the traveller. The post road runs through the poorest part of 
I it, and, to use the language of Mr. Jefferson, " the genius of ai'ch- 
itecturc seems to have shed his maledictions over the land." The 
' buildings are mostly of wood, some of them painted, and some 
I not; and they exhibit a very unsightly appearance. Like Vir- 
1 ginia, there are no large towns, and there seems to be no occasion 
for them. Mankind are probably better accommodated by a 
j great number of small towns than by a few large cities. 

Nexsibern is the chief town. It is situated at the confluence of the 
I Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of land, somewhat resem- 
bling Charleston, South Carolina ; and it candies on a considera- 
ble trade with other places in the state, and the West Indies. 
The population, in 1800, was 2467, of whom above one half 
i were slaves. 

Wilmington is the most commercial town in the state. It is situ- 
ated at the junction of the two branches of Cape Fear river, 35 
' miles from the sea, and, being the place of depot for a large 
back country, it carries on considei'able trade, foreign and domes- 
tic. The town contains about 1700 inhabitants. The houses are 
mostly built of wood, and the town has suifered severely from 
fire at various times. 

Edenton, on Albemarle Sound, is one of the oldest towns in 
the state, and was formerly the seat of the royal governors. It is 
favourably situated for trade, but is low and unhealthy. It con- 
tains about 750 inhabitants. 

Raleigh and Fayetteville have been noticed. The others of 
most note are WasJiington^ Tarboroiigh, and Hillsboroiigh, on the 
Tar river ; Halifax, on the Roanoke ; Salem, on the Yadkin ; 
Moj-gayitown, on the Catawba; and Beavford, near Cape Look- 
out. The population of these places is from about 300 to 700; 
and there are many villages containing from 100 to 300. 

The roads and bridges are yet in an imperfect state, and much 
remains to be done to make travelling comfortable. 

The inhabitants are mostly farmers, and produce on their farms 
every necessary of life. The principal commodities for sale are 
tar, turpentine, pitch, rosin, timber, bees-wax, corn, cotton, and to- 
bacco. Almost every flimily in the country manufacture their 
own clothing, so that the British trade to this state is not great, 
nor important. The greater part of it is carried on through the 



19Q 



TRAVELS IN 



medium of Charleston, or the northern states. The direct ex- 
ports amounted, in 1805, to 779,903 dollars. 

The state of society is somewhat similar to Virginia. Many of 
the planters are wealthy, frank, and hospitable; and considerable 
efforts have been made to place education on a respectable foot- 
ing. A university has been founded, and endowed by the state ; 
and there are several respectable academies. But the most im- 
portant branch, that which has for its object the general diffu- 
sion of knowledge, has been neglected until of late. In 1808, 
however, an act passed the legislature to establish common schools 
throughout the state, which, if followed up, will produce good 
effects. 

The legislative authority is vested in a senate antl house of com- 
mons, together styled the General Assembly, and chosen annual- 
ly. Senators must be possessed of 300 acres of land ; represen- 
tatives of 100. The electors of senators must be possessed of 5Q 
acres of land ; and of representatives a freehold in some town. 
The executive is vested in a governor, elected by the General 
Assembly, and he is noL eligible to serve more than three years 
in six. He is assisted by a council of state, consisting of seven 
persons, elected by the Assembly annually. The judiciary con- 
sists of a supreme court, a court of equity, and a court of admi- 
ralty. The judges are appointed by the Assembly. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Wilton, — GecrgetowTiy — Charleston, 

Although we had passed into a different state, we had 
neither a more beautiful country, nor a better road. The one was 
flat, swampy, and dismal ; the other was bad in the extreme. 
We passed a small plantation, a mile from the state line, after 
which we had three miles of a solitary road, when we came to 
a methodist church, attended by a pretty decent looking congre- 
gation. Five miles from thence is Swimming creek ; but we did 
not s'voim here, though we had to xoade a long way. A mile 
farther we reached Little Pcdee, where we left the stage, and 
crossed in a canoe to Ford's, where we stopped for the night. 



SOUTH CAKOLINA. 19t 

The day was moist and warm, rather sultiy, but on the wliole 
not disagreeable. The country was more imminently wretched 
than any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how it was in- 
habited at all, when there is so much good land, and so many 
fine climates, in other parts of the United States. 

Little Pedee river rises about 80 miles above where we crossed 
it; it runs a south-east course about 130 miles, and falls into the 
Great Pedee. It is a considerable stream, and at this time was 
swelled by the late rains to a great extent. It is not navigable. 

Monday, October 13th. On getting up this morning, at 
daylight, I found the driver, a young lad of about 18, was not 
inclined to go on with the stage, and Mr. Ford, the postmaster, 
seemed to be very indifferent whether he went or not. The driv- 
er alleired that there was a bridae broken on a crcelv about 18 
miles distant, which he could not possibly get across, and it was 
of no use to try. I asked when it would be passable. He replied 
drily, " Perhaps in a month." " And are we to wait here a 
month ?" " I suppose so," said he, with great sang froid, I 
appealed to the postmaster, but he appeared willing to leave it to 
the driver's discretion. Thus situated, I resolved to take a tleci- 
sive course, and told them, that though I was unacquainted with 
the post-office regulations, yet it appeared to me that the stage 
ought not to be stopped, but by an unsurmountable dilficulty, 
and, after the answers I had received, I would require to see that 
difficulty before I was satisfied of it. If therefore the stage was 
detained here, 1 would draw up a representation of the case, and 
send it to the postmaster-general. The joung man said that 
there was a bj^e-path through the woods, which he could take, 
and perhaps get over the creek, provided he had any assistance. 
Another driver was in the house, who wished to ffo to Gcoriie- 
town, and having no money, he offered to give his assistance if 
they would give him a passage free. This the postmaster objected 
to. The sum was only about three dollars, and I pointed out 
the impropriety of detaining the stage two days for such a trifle; 
but it was to no purjDose ; and I was obliged to become security 
for the payment of it before Mr. Ford v.ould consent to let the 
young man go on. 

Having got this matter adjusted, we travelled 15 miles to Ilcedy 
creek, the soil sandy, the woods pine, and many swamps by the way. 
T'jc banks of this creek were overfloAvcd to the breadth of a quarter 



192 TRAVELS IN THE 

of a mile on each side. About a mile beyond this the driver took 
a passage through the woods, the assistant driver acting as a pioneer; 
and after travelling in this way nearly three miles, we came to the 
creek, concerning which we had the altercation in the morning. It 
was not broad, but very deep, and choaked up with roots and brush- 
wood. I did not like its appearance ; but there was no alternative, 
we must either go through or return. Having secured the mail 
from the water, and taken some precautions in case of being upset, 
we plunged in, swam right across, reached the opposite bank in safe- 
t)', and travelling about a mile more through trackless woods, we 
regained the road, very much to my satisfaction. I bestowed much 
applause on the two drivers for their good conduct, and at the first 
tavern we came to, treated them with a glass of grog. So our morn- 
ing's scolding was forgotten, and we travelled on very agreeably 
through this disagreeable country. 

We were hardly ever out of swamps and creeks. Six miles from 
our s'wimming creek, we reached Maple swamp ; and here the bridge 
was also broken, and we had to get across in a flat, which detained 
ns a considerable time. Five miles beyond this we reached the Great 
Pcdee river, which we crossed by a ferry. 

^This is a fine flowing river; next to the San tee, the largest in 
South Carolina. It rises in north Carolina among the mountains, 
and has in that state the name of Yadkin river. From thence it 
continues a south-east course, and after being joined by large tribu- 
tary streams, particularly Little Pedee, Lynch's creek, and Black 
river, it falls into the sea, 12 miles below Georgetown. Its whole 
length is upwards of 300 miles, and it waters an extensive tract of 
country. It is navigable for sea vessels to Georgetown, and for 
iuialler vessels 100 miles higher up. It is about 400 yards broad 
where we crossed it, and flows with a strong current. Its banks are 
said to be fertile ; but in the low country are very \mhealthy. 

We stopped here for breakfast, but the family were all sick with 
fever and ague, in consequence of which we were long detained. It 
Avas, however, at last produced, and consisted of unsightly coffee, 
brown bread, some bacon, and butter, which looked like " train oil 
thickened with salt." I had just put the cup to my hps, when I 
heard a violent retching in the adjoining room, the door of which 
iunnediately opened, and out came such a smell as filled the room 
with a perfume somewhat different from that of Arabia Felix. 1 
could not bear it, and urged to be gone; but the drivers seemed to 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 193 

be accustomed to these sort of scenes, and ate their coarse fare with 
all the composure imaginable. 

We left this wretched place at half past 1 1 o'clock, and two miles 
distant came into the old post-road, which gave us a great degree 
of pleasure, as the road from Lumberton was all a new line, and des- 
perately bad. However, our troubles were not over ; for, a few 
miles after entering" this road, we came to Lynch's creek, and here 
the bridge was not only gone, but the water was spread over the 
face of the earth nearly three quarters of a mile in breadth : there 
was a house at the other side, but the view was obstructed by the 
woods, and we had to halloo for half an hour before we were heard. 
At last, to use an Irish phrase, we heard the voice of oars plashing in 
the water, and soon saw two black fellows paddling a huge flat, on 
which we were taken across. 

Passing over many creeks and swamps of inferior note, and there 
is hardly any thing else to excite attention in this country, we reach- 
ed Blackraingo creek, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. This creek 
had swelled to a great extent, and part of the bridge was gone, so 
that we could not get over the stage nor horses. We got across 
with the mail, which we delivered at the post-office, where we were 
informed that the Georgetown mail had not arrived ; and so we 
Mere set fast, at length, at a miserable little place called Willton, 

The whole city consisted of only about 1 5 or 20 houses ; as for 
public buildings, there were none ; but there was a tolerably good 
wooden building, at which I was told a Scotsman kept a dr^'-goods 
store. Aye ! thinks I to myself, notwithstanding the eminent 
wretchedness of the place, Saunders has found out that something 
is to be done here. However, Paddy was not behind hand with 
him. The greater part of the other inhabitants were Irish people. 

I took up my lodgings at the head inn, (there were two in the 
city) and 1 found my landlord a civil obliging little Irishman, I 
told him my adventures in the stage from Lumberton, at which he 

laughed heartily, observing, " By J s, you must have had a 

tough time of it, and I'll warrant you have found the ground of your 
stomach : well, well, the old woman will have something ready pre- 
sently, and I'll see to have a little bit of beef; and though it's salt, 
we'll have plenty of vegetables to it, and somepratees, the seed of 
which I got from old Ireland; and, in the mean time, we'll just 
have a little drop of something to drink peace and good neighbour- 
hood. Och, now, I do like to see a countryman ; and althqugh 

25 



194 TRAVELS IN 

youarc not justa countryman neither, yet you are the next door 
neighbour to it, and that comes to the same thing." So saying, lie 
set oiF to give the necessary orders about the dinner, and soon re- 
turned with the bottle, attended by the doctor of the citij^ whom he 
introduced to nicas a countryman, " and as honest a fellow as ever 
crossed the great sea." 

"\\'^hile we were regaling ourselves, the doctor was seized with an 
ague fit. " Och, now, doctor," says the landlord, " what's that for ? , 
you should leave the like o' that to me, who am a trained hand at it; , 
it's I that can rap it away to some purpose when I begin." And he 
soon did begin to rap it away. He was seized with a violent fit. 
I felt for them at first ; but when I observed their wo-begone ' 
countenances and odd gestures, I could not help comparing them, 
in my imagination, to Shakspearc's admirable simile of " Patience 
on a monument, smiling at grief," and was obliged to burst'out into 
a- loud laugh. The landlord, forgetting his ague fit, joined me. *" By 
my shoul," says he, " you'i'e a pure one. I believe, now, if you 
were to be ht-re beside me, with that merry face of your own, you 
would do me more eood than the doctor, with all his medicines. 
Doctor, why don't you shove that rascally ague about its business, 
and join me and the gentleman in the laugh ?" The doctor smiled, 
which was uU the length he could go ; however, they soon got clear 
of their shake, and we sat down together to dinner. " Aye, this is 
something like civilization," says I, putting my fork into the salt 
beef. " Now, would you have expeeted that I could have mustered 
you up a little bit of stuff like that ?" said the landlord. " Now ate 
away heartily, and make yourself at home, and here's some pratees 
for you, and some sweet pratees, and there's some beans and tur- 
liips ; take some o' that now, and some corn-bread, and some o' these 
cakes that was baked for you by the old woman, and ate heartily^ 
and make your dinner, dear, for you see we don't want good fare> 
thougn we have got into a queer out o' th' world looking place." 

The officious kindness and good humour of this agreeable Irish- 
man beguiled the time, and reconciled me to a detention of two days 
at this place, vdiich would otherwise have been almost intolerable; 
for there was not a single external object to gratify the senses, the 
glorious effulgence of a bright sun excepted. The weather was clear 
and beautiful. 

A^'edncsday, 15th. The Georgetown stage arrived, and the o- 
ther mail from the northward ; $o we got relieved from our confine- 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 195 

ment at 5 o'clock ; and, bidding adieu to the agreeable Irishman 
and his family, we set out in the stage. 

The country continued, as before, flat and sandy, six miles, to 
Black river, which we passed by a wooden bridge. This bridge had 
been broken, which was the reason of the detention of the stage, 
and, though now repaired a little, it was still in a very sliattered state. 
Black river rises near Camden, and running a south-east course, 
falls into the great Pedee, a little above Georgetown. The road 
continued pretty good, but the bridges were in very bad order, and 
we passed many of them; for the country is hei'e intersected with 
creeks in all directions. We reached Georgetown, 20 miles from 
Willton, at 8 o'clock in the evening. 

Here I was agreeably surprised to find a young gentleman who 
had been a considerable time clerk in the same house with me in 
Glasgow. We were mutually gratified at this meeting ; the more 
so when we learned that we should travel together to Chai'leston. 

Georgeioton is situated at the confluence of Pedee and Black 
rivers, 12 miles from the sea, and contains about 2000 inhabitants. 
It is the only sea-port in South Carolina, except Charleston, and 
has a considerable trade, particularly in rice, of which it is said 
that the lands in its neighbourhood produce 30,000 tierces annually. 
The houses are mostly built of wood, and are but indifferent. The 
principal pubHc buildings are a court-house, jail, an episcopal 
church, a presbyterian church, one for baptists, one for method- 
ists, and a flourishing academy. 

The situation is unhealthy in the fall, but the winters arc mild 
and pleasant. 

Thursday, 16th, we left Georgetown at 3 o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and travelled through a level, sandy soil, about 13 miles, 
when we passed the north branch of the Santec. From thence 
there is a very muddy swamp, through whicli there is a causeway. 
But causeways here are entirely different from what they are in 
Britain. I naturally expected to find a pavement of stones, when 
the term was made use of; instead of which, I found them to con- 
sist of pieces of wood laid across the road, with a little space be- 
tween them, which is filled up with earth and brush-wood ; but 
this soon wears away, when the road becomes exceedingly rough. 
Over this we had to travel, Joli, jolt, jolt, jolt, for two miles, when 
we passed the south branch of the San tee, and had a good level 
road. 



196 TRAVELS IM 

Santee is the largest river in South Carolina, and is formed by 
two very large streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the interior 
of the country. Thence running upwards of lOOmiles, in an east- 
south-east direction, it divides about 5 miles above where we cross- 
ed it, and falls into the Atlantic Ocean by two channels not far 
apart. The Wateree rises at the foot of the mountains in North 
Carolina, where it is denominated the Catawba, and, pursuing -^.y^^^ 
south-east course, is joined by many tributary streams, and forijiil a ' 
junction with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. 
The Congeree rises also in North Carolina, within a few miles of 
the Catawba, and pursues a south-east course about 70 miles, 
when it crosses the state line, and runs due south about 50 miles; 
it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms the junction 
aforesaid. In its passage through South Carolina, it receives a 
great many tributary streams, some of which are large rivers, par- 
ticularly the Tyger, Enneree, and Reedy rivers^ 

Thirty miles from Georgetown, we stopped for dinner, where 
we had a view of the Atlantic Ocean ; and this was several times 
repeated in our journey onward. There was no other variety, for 
the country is one continued sand flat, with drifting sand and pine 
trees. But the weather was delightful. We reached Charleston 
at 6 o'clock in the eveningr. 



CHA^JKH XL, 

Charleston. 

A.S it was of importance to make some arrangements at Charles- 
ton, I wrote to Savannali, and in the interim had a few days to 
spend with my friends. 

On the evening of the 20th of October, I was invited by a friend 
to take a ride to the west end of the town. As we returned, a 
gentleman on horseback came up with us, whom my friend fa- 
miliarly accosted by the appellation of Doctor, and introduced me 
as a stranger, recently from Britain. I'he doctor immediately en- 
tei-ed into conversation on the affairs of that country. " Vm 
afraid," says he, " it's all over with that empire." " How so ?" ask- 
ed I. " Why," says he, " it appears to me, that the present minis- 
try will ruin the country." « Why, now," said I, " it appears to 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 1 97 

me, on the other hand, that they are making efforts to save it ; 
at least, I think they have taken very important stejxs with that 
view, since they have been in power." He rephed, very dogmati- 
cally, that I did not seem to understand it; — the men were ruining 
the country; he was sure of it; he saw it very clearly. He was 
a jolly, good-looking man, with a drab coat, and a white hat; 
id I supposed him to be a doctor of medicine, and an American. 
J. was surprised at his violence, and his animosity to the whig 
j^av^^- for it was generally understood that they were much more 
favourMjfy, disposed towards America than their predecessors. 
When he had expressed his sentiments, I adverted to that favour- 
able circumstant^e, and stated, that having been very lately in 
the country, I had paid a good deal of attention to public affairs, 
and was pretty well acquainted with the policy of the ministry; so 
that I ought to understand the subject at least as well as those who 
lived 3000 miles distant ; and if he would give me leave, I would 
state a few particulars, which he would find to be highly in favour 
of the present administration. " You are entirely mistaken," said 
he; " people who live here can form a much better judgment on 
the conduct of the British government than those who are on the 
spot. But what d'ye propose to tell me? can you mention a single 
instance in which they departed from the policy of Mr. Pitt? Can 
you mention one ? I defy you to mention one." I instanced the 
attempt to give peace to their country ; to restore religious freedom 
to the Roman catholics; to conciliate foreign powers; but, above 
all, to put an end to the traffic in human Jlesh. He passed over all 
these circumstances except the last, and, fixing on it, " But Mr. 
Pitt," says he, " advocated the abolition as well as Fox." " He did 
so," said I, " but in a very different manner, and with a very dif- 
ferent effect." " And I think the worse of him for so doing," said 
he; " there, I think, he was an enemy to his country !" " I un- 
derstood," said I, " that you approved of the measures of Mr. Pitt." 
" And so I did." " Well, then, in supporting the abolition, was 
he an enemy to his country r*" " No," said he, " I don't think 
so ; for I believe he was not sincere." " Not sincere !" said I. 
*' Sir, you place Mr. Pitt's memory in a very extraordinary point 
of view. If he was not sincere, he was a consummate hypocrite. 
If he was sincere, then, according to your opinion, he was an ene- 
my to his country." — " Ay, but there may be cases of expediency," 
«aid he. " Cases of expediency !" said I. " Sir, truth is simple 



198 



TRAVELS IN 



and honourable, and requires no expedients. Falsehood is base 
and detestable, and all the expedients in the world Avill not dis- 
guise it. — Besides, to apply cases of expediency to such a momen- 
tous concern as the slave trade, is monstrous. — The laws of morality 
require that wc should do to our neighbours as we would be done 
by ; humanity enforces it — Christianity" 1 was going to say en- 
joins it ; but our roads lay different, and we parted. " You should 
not have been so severe upon the doctor," observed my friend. 
*' who is he ?" said I. — I was astonished, and the reader will be 
astonished, to learn, that this approver of expedients — this sup- 
porter of the measures of Mr. Pitt — this advocate of the slave 
trade, was a minister of the gospel of Christ ! and was sent out ta 
Charleston on the recommendation of the late Dr. Blair of Edin- 
burgh, 

I was variously employed in Charleston until the 21st, by which 
time I had got all my arrangements completed, when, having no 
letter from Savannah, I became exceedingly impatient to be gone. 
I accordingly took my passage by the mail stage, and, as it was 
to start at three o'clock in the morning, I went to sleep in the 
stage-house. 

I was seized with a slight fever during the night, and when the 
departure of the stage was announced, I found it was out of 
my power to proceed. I got very anxious, and sent for a doctor, 
who prescribed some medicine, and I believe gave me a very im- 
proper dose, to which, principally, I attribute a severe stomach 
complaint with which I was afterwards afflicted. 

In this situation I was greatly assisted by a young Irishman, 
who came to lodge at the same house. He examined into my situ- 
ation, told me he had been served in the same way at New Or- 
leans, and prescribed some medicine to counteract the effect of the 
other, which was successful, and in all probability saved my life. 

During my confinement there was a remarkable change of wea- 
ther ; the thermometer fell suddenly from 75° to 4:8°, 1 was told 
that such changes were very conniion there, in the spring and fall. 

Charleston is elegantly situated on a point of land at the 
confluence of Cooper and Ashle}^ rivei's, which form the harbour, 
one of the most convenient in the United States. The ground 
on which the city is built is low, but it is open to the sea breeze, 
and is, upon the v/hole, one of the most eligible situations in the 
low country. The plan of the city is regular, the streets crossing 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 199 

earh other at right angles ; but many of them are too njirrow. 
The houses are partly built of brick, and partly of wood ; and 
many of them are elegant. They are about 5000 in number, and 
the city contains about 24,000 inhabitants, of whom nearly one 
half are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, exchange, 
college, armoury, three banks, 18 places of public worship, alms- 
house, orphans-house, &c. The markets are kept in pretty good 
order, but provisions are dear, and are not so good as in the 
northern cities. There are few manufactures at Charleston, but 
there is a very active commerce, particularly in the winter sea- 
son ; and vast quantities of shipping arc constantly arriving and 
departing, which keeps the city very lively. The principal fo- 
reign trade is to Europe and the West Indies ; of which Britain 
occupies a large share, and a considerable portion is appropriated 
to Glasgow. The great articles for export are cotton and rice, 
particularly the former ; and the imports consist of East and 
West India goods, groceries, and British manufactures. Besides 
this, there is a very extensive trade to the northern states, in 
which many regular packets are employed. The citizens are es- 
teemed hospitable and polite, of which I found many instances. 
They are mostly all dressed in British manufactures, so that the 
cultivation of this trade is an object of considerable importance to 
that countiy. A more than ordinary proportion of the popula- 
tion of Charleston is blacks, occasioned by the circumstance of 
its being the only port in the United Slates in which they can be 
imported; but it is supposed this bi'anch will not long continue. 
— From the light of reason, of philosophy, and of rehgion, that 
is every where shining around us, may we not hope that the 
time will soon arrive when man will no more deal deceitfully 
with his fellow, but justice, and righteousness, and mcrcv, wiii. 
extend over all the earth ? 



CHAPTER XLI. 

South Carolina. 

A HIS state is situated between north latitude 32° G' and 35", 
and west longitude 1° 30' and 6° 25'. Its extreme length from east 
to west is 236, and breadth from north to south 210 miles; imd it 



200 SOUTH CAROLINA. 

is computed to contain an area of 33,880 square miles, being 
21,683,200 acres. 

South Carolina has a sea coast on the Atlantic, extending near" 
ly 200 miles, to which all its rivers flow. The angle of the coast 
is from north-cast to south-west; and nearly parallel ^vith this, at 
about 120 miles from the coast, the first high land commences. 
The whole of the intermediate space is nearly a continued level, 
the angle of ascent being so trifling, that the rise at the extremity 
probably does not exceed 15 or 20 feet. From the commence- 
ment of the high lands the face of the country is variegated, and 
agreeably uneven, swelling sometimes into considerable hills; and 
this continues to the north-west extremity of the state, where it 
is bounded by the mountains. 

The state is remarkably well watered. The Savannah river 
forms the boundary line between it and Georgia, through its 
whole course. This, and some of the other rivers, have been no- 
ticed ; besides which there are — 

Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form a junction at Charleston* 
Cooper river rises about 50 miles N.N.W. of Charleston, not far 
from the Santee river. Jtis a mile wide, nine miles above Charles- 
ton, and is navigable to its source, from whence there is a canal 
to the Santee. Ashley river rises to the north-west of Charleston, 
and derives its principal importance from the circumstance of its 
forming part of the harbour of that city. 

Edisto river rises near the extremity of the low country, and 
runs a south-east course, including its windings, of 150 miles, 
wlien it enters into the Atlantic, by two principal channels, call- 
ed north and south Edisto. I'he space between them forms the 
Edisto Island. 

Cambahee river rises near Edgefield court-house, and running 
a south-cast direction, upwards of 130 miles, falls into St. Helena 
Sound. 

Coosaw river rises in Orangeburg district, and running a 
south-east course, through Black swamp, falls into Broad river, 
which last is an arm of the sea, in some places 7 or 8 miles broad, 
and forms, at Baufort, one of the finest harbours in the United 
States. Beaufort and St. Flelena Islands are formed by the con- 
fluence of these rivers and inlets; and there is a spacious entrance 
by Port Republican, formerly termed Port Royal. 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



201 



The principal mineral is iron, which, indeed, is found in great 
plenty in all the states ; and gold, silver, and copper ores have also 
been found here. Marble has been found in some few places, and also 
black lead. There are several valuable mineral springs in the state. 

The whole of the low country presents an even regular soil, form- 
ed by a blackish sand, and pretty deep in those places where there 
are no stones. Seven tenths of it is covered with pines of one 
species, which as the soil is drier and lighter, grow loftier and 
not so branchy. In some places they are interspersed with oaks. 
The pine barrens are crossed by little swamps, in the midst of 
which generally flows a rivulet, and they have different degrees of 
fertility', indicated by the trees that grow on them. In the upper 
country, the most fertile lands are situated upon the borders of 
the rivers and creeks; the lands that occupy the intermediate 
spaces are much less fertile. The latter are not much cultivated ; 
and those who occupy them are obliged to be perpetually clearing 
them to obtain more abundant harvests, "^rhc forests are chiefly 
composed of oaks, hickory, maples, and poplars. Chesnut-trees 
do not begin to appear for 60 miles on this side of the mountains.* 

The climate in the low country is materially diiferent from that 
in the upper country, the former being much less congenial to 
health than the latter. The summers are exceedingly hot and 
sultry, and the heat abates but little, except in the evenings and 
mornings, till past the middle of October. From the first of 
July to that period, the country is in many places subject to much 
sickness, particularly bilious fevers, agues, &c. The fall weather 
is generally beautiful, and continues till past Christmas; tlic aver- 
age temperature is greater than an English summer. The win- 
ters are generally mild, and there is very little frost, but the wea- 
ther is sometimes subject to great and sudden changes. The 
spring commences about the middle of February, and they have 
often green peas in the market by the middle of March ; but the 
weather intermits very much till about the first of May, when it 
gets steadily warm, and continues increasing with the season till 
September, when it begins to abate.f Almost every person who 
can afibrd it, removes to a more healthy situation durhig this 
period, and a vast number go to the northern states in smniucr, 
and return in the fall. The period of going north, is mostly from 

« Midiaux. t Il""d. 

2G 



202 SOUTH CAROLINA. 

the middle of May till the middle of July, and of returning, trom 
the middle of October till the middle of November. The anxiety 
that prevails during that period is extreme; and when it is over, 
the inhabitants congratulate one another with the full prospect of 
10 or 11 months being added to their existence. In the upper 
country the summers are much more temperate, and being re- 
moved from the swamps, there is no sickness. Towards the moun- 
tains the climate is delightful. 

In 1662, Charles II. granted to lord Clarendon, and others, a 
tract of land extending from north latitude 29° to 36° 31', knd 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, which they called Caro- 
lina. The first permanent settlement was made at Charleston, 
under their direction, in 1669. The cultivation of rice was intro- 
duced in 1690; and of cotton in 1702. In 1728, the counti-y was 
divided into North and South Carolina, when there were 14,000 
whites, and 20,000 negroes and Indians. Indigo was cultivated 
in 1745. South Carolina took an early and decided part in the 
struo"gle for independence, and sent delegates to the first congress. 
In 1790, she adopted the present state constitution; and now 
sends two senators and eight representatives to congress.^ 

The state is divided into 26 judiciary districts; and some of these 
are subdivided into parishes. The population, in 1800, was 
199,440 free persons, and 146,151 slaves, in all 345,591, being 
about 1 to the square mile. 

The state advances in improvements and population ; but the 
increase of both being principally in the upper country, are not 
seen by strangers. Except Charleston, there are no towns ot 
material consequence. 

Columbia, on the Congeree river, 120 miles from Charleston, 
is the seat of government, and is a place of considerable trade. 
" The number of its houses docs not exceed 200; they are almost 
all built of wood, and painted grey and yellow ; and, although 
there are very few of them more than two stories high, they have 
a very respectable appearance. The inhabitants of the upper 
country, who do not approve of sending their provisions to 
Charleston, stop at Columbia, where they dispose them at sjveral 
respectable shops established in the town. 

The above account is given by Michaux, who travelled through 
this place in 1803; and a continuation of the extract pres.'uts a 
picture of the country between Columbia and Charleston, 



SOUTH Carolina; 203 

« Columbia is about 120 miles from Charleston. For the whole 
of this space, particularly from Orangeburg, composed of 20 houses, 
the road crosses an even country, sandy and dry during the sum- 
mer ; whilst in the autumn and winter it is so covered with water 
in several places, for the space of eight or ten miles, that the horses 
are up to their middles. Every two or three miles we met with a 
miserable log-house upon the road, surrounded with little fields of 
Indian corn, the slender stalks of which are very seldom more than 
five or six feet high, and which, from the second harvest, do not 
yield more than four or five bushels an acre. In the mean time, 
notwithstanding its sterility, this land is sold at the rate of two 
dollars per acre." Beaufort contains about 1000 inhabitants; and 
there are several smaller towns containing from 100 to 500. 

As there is a material difference in the soil and climate of the 
upper and lower country, so is there in the produce. The produce 
in the lower country is mostly cotton and rice, with articles neces- 
sary for the subsistence of the negroes, particularly Indian corn. 
The sea islands, and low lands along the coast, produce cotton of 
the long staple: in the interior it is principally of the short staple. 
Rice plantations are established in the great swamps, and the har- 
vests are abundant. Throughout the whole of this district the agri- 
ciUtural labours are performed by negro slaves. In the upper coun- 
try the produce is more diversified. They raise no rice ; but they 
produce cotton of the short staple in very considerable quantities; 
and, besides Indian corn, they raise wheat, rye, oats, and barley. 
A great part of the agricultural labour here is performed by the 
white people ; and so great is the difference, in this respect, from the 
low country, that we may reckon there are two white persons to 
one black ; whereas, in the other there are two blacks to one white 
person. 

The manufactures of this state are mostly of the domestic kind, 
for family use, and this kind of industry is increasing ; but such is 
the quantity of produce suitable for foreign markets, that the state 
carries on a very active foreign commerce, of which a great propor- 
tion is to Britain. The articles exported are chiefly cotton, rice, 
and tobacco. The imports consist of British manuDictures, wines, 
and groceries. The exports in 1805, amounted to 9,060,625 dollars, 
of which 5,957,646 dollars was domestic produce ; and probably 
three millions more arc exported through, the medium of the north- 
ern ports. 



204 TRAVELS IN 

The operation of slavery to so great an extent produces, of course, 
the same effects here as in other places; but the people have consi- 
derably improved in education and morals since the revolution. It 
was customary for a long period for the more wealthy planters to 
send their sons to Europe for education ; and even now they fre- 
quently send them to the northern states ; but the practice is gra- 
duall)' declining, and the desire has become general to have res- 
pectable seminaries in the state. A college has been founded, and 
very respectably endowed, at Columbia ; and there are several other 
colleges and academies throughout the state. The towns are pret- 
ty well supplied with common schools ; but they are defective in the 
country ; and this branch of education, being the basis of the moral- 
ity of the state, deserves the early attention of the legislature. 

The civil government is, like that of the other states, legislative, 
executive, and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a general 
assembly, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The 
senators are chosen for four yeai*s, and one half vacate their seats e- 
very two years ; they must be thirty-five years of age, and possessed 
of a freehold estate of the value of 300 pounds sterling, clear of 
debt; and the electors must be possessed of fifty acres of land, or a 
town lot, or have paid a tax of three shiUings sterling. The repre- 
sentatives must be twenty-one years of age, and be possessed of a 
freehold estate of 1 50 pounds, clear of debt ; and the electors must 
have the same quahficalions as lor senators. 

The executive government is vested in a governor, chosen for two 
years, by the legislature ; and the qualifications to fill that office are, 
that he be thirty years of age, and be possessed of 1500 pounds 
sterling. 

The judges of the superior courts, commissioners of the treasury, 
secretary of state, and surveyor-general, are all elected by the 
legislature. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

Charleston^ — Savannah river, — Savannah. 

S ATURDAY, October 25th. Having been eight days in Charles- 
ton, witiiout hearing from Savannah, I got much alarmed for my 
friend, and resolved to depart forthwith, notwithstanding I was in 
a very poor state of health. I accordingly engaged a passage in 



GEORGIA. $05 

the Delight, captain Cooper, and went on board in the afternoon. 
We set sail at 5 o'clock. It was a fine clear evening ; but I was 
sick, and could not enjoy the breeze nor the scenery. The wind 
was favourable, and before midnight we were in sight of Tybee light- 
house. I went to bed, but slept little ; and when I. arose in the 
morning I found we were sailing up Savannah river with a fair wind, 
which continued till we reached the city. As we were drawing to- 
wai'ds the wharf, a gentleman of my acquaintance passed us in a 
boat ; and so great was my anxiety that I could hardly put the ge- 
neral question : " How are you all in Savannah?" The answer 
was such as I dreaded : " Your friend is not very well." I was 
dreadfully agitated, and could hardly pronounce the sentence: "He's 
not dangerously ill, I hope." " He's pretty bad," was the reply. 
It we)it to my heart. The power of vision and of hearing forsook 
me ; my limbs tottered under me ; I lost all sense of recollection, 
and in this state was conveyed to the wharf; but I soon recovered 
from my reverie. The powers of my mind rallied their force, and 
the passion of grief took the place of letharg3% I was almost choak- 
ed v.'ith the violence of my passion, and could hardly support my- 
self to the top of the bluff, when I was accosted b}' a friend, who 
told me my presence was very much wanted in Savannah. This gave 
my mind a Iresh direction. I armed myself with resolution, 

" Tlmt column of true majesty in man ;" 

and determining to brave all difficulty and all danger, I made the 
best of my way to the house. I found my friend in the agonies of 
death. I spoke to him ; but he underssood me not. I looked in 
his face ; but, oh, how altered ! His eyes were sunk in his head, 
and his colour was quite yellow. I seized his hand, and it was quite 
emaciated. The hand of death pressed heavy upon him, and all I 
could now hope for was to make myself understood in taking a sor- 
rowful farewell. I mentioned my name, on which he raised his eyes; 
he looked wistfully in my face ; he pressed my hand with fervour, 
saying faintly, " Is it you ?" and fell back in his bed, and soon after 
expired. 

Thus I lost an esteemed friend, and the business lost the services 
of a valuable young man, on whom I had placed great reliance. 
His conduct during the whole of our short connexion was such as 
to give me every satisfaction, and to secure my utmost confidence. 
His loss was painful, as a friend — as an assistant, irretrievable. 



206 TRAVELS IN 

In the mean time, the whole of the business devolved upon mc, 
and such was the mass of matter through which I had to labour, that 
I hardly ever enjoyed an hour of recreation or repose for the space 
of two months ; and my health was re-established very slowly. 

In other respects matters were favourable. By dint of vigorous 
exertions I got the whole of my business arranged to my wish ; and 
my accounts from Britain, both of a public and pri irate nature, were 
flattering. 

The non-intercourse act was suspended, in consequence of which 
a quantity of our goods, that were seized under its operation, were 
given up free of expense. 

Mr. Fox was dead ; but his friends remained in the cabinet ; and 
every thing seemed to promise a continuance of a good understand- 
ing between the two countries, on which my whole fortune and fu- 
ture prospects depended. 

My feelings were highly gratified by an act of the American go- 
vernment, abolishing for ever the slave trade; and it appeared that 
a similar measure would be adopted in Britain. 

I found the inhabitants of Savannah hospitable and friendly ; and 
was much pleased with the attention of those of them with whom I 
had occasion to associate. 

Under all these circumstances, it became a question whether I 
would form a new connexion, to supply the place of my friend, and 
go on with the business, or whether I would wind it up. After 
much deliberation it was detennined to carry it on. A new connex- 
ion was formed, and I prosecuted the various arrangements con- 
nected with it with all the vigour in my power. 

Having all these completed, I prepared to leave the United States 
for Europe ; but before I embark I shall take a general view of the 
state of Georgia. 

CHAPTER XLIIl. 

Georgia 

Is situated between north latitude 30"" 30' and 35°, and west lon- 
gitude 3° 50' and 9° 5'. Its extreme length from north to south 
is 305 miles, and its extreme breadth 259. Its area is about 60,000 
square miles, or 38,4'00,000 acres. 

This state, like the Carolinas, is naturally divided into two dis- 
tricts, the upper and the lower ; of which the boundary is remark- 



GEORGIA. 207 

ably well defined. Augusta is on this line, on the Savannah river, 
from v^hence it passes to the westward by Louisville, and, at the ex- 
tremity of the state, passes the Flint river, about the latitude of 32°. 
The respective portions are so much assimilated to South Carolina, 
that it is unnecessai'y to describe them here. The state has a sea 
coast of 100 miles, which is indented with bays and inlets, and stud- 
ded with islands, well known by the name of Sea Islands. In the 
southern part there is a portion of Eokefanoke swamp, one of the 
most remarkable in the world. To the north-west are the Allega- 
ny mountains, which terminate in this state. 

The state is remarkably well supplied with rivers and small 
streams* The Savannah river has been already described. The 
Ogeeche river rises a little above Greensburgh, 200 miles from Sa- 
vannah, and pursuing a south cast course falls into the Atlantic, 25 
miles south of Savannah. 

The Altamaha is composed ofa number of branches, of which 
the largest is the Oconee. It rises near the mountains, about 300 
miles from Savannah, and running a south-south-east course, is 
joined by the Appalachy, and thence continues its course, augment- 
ed by a great number of tributary streams, till it forms a junction 
with the Oakmulgee, 100 miles from the ocean : from thence it runs 
an east-south-east couse, and falls into the Atlantic below Darien, to 
which it is navigable for large vessels. 

The Oakmulgee is a large river rising near the Appalachy, from 
whence, to its confluence with the Oconee, it runs upwards of 200 
miles. The Little Ogeeche is a considerable river, and falls into 
the Altamaha, from the northward, after this junction. 

The Chatahouchy is a very large river, and forms the western 
boundary of Georgia from the Florida line, 125 miles up the coun- 
try. It rises at the foot of the mountains, near the head of Savan- 
nah river, and runs south-westward ly, above 200 miles, to where 
it forms the state line. From thence it pursues a course a little 
east of south, to Florida, where it forms a junction with Flint 
river, and assumes the name of Apalachicola. From thence it 
runs a south by east course, 80 miles, to the gulf of Mexico, 
which it enters by several mouths. 

Fhnt river is about 300 yards broad, and 12 or 15 feet deep.' 
It rises near the Oakmulgee river, and runs, with a clear gentle 
current, a course to the west of south, upwards of 200 miles. 

St. Mary's river rises in Eokefanoke swamp, and running about 



208 GEORGIA. 

100 miles by a very crooked course, but east upon the whole, 
forms the boundary between the United States and East Florida, 
during its whole passage, and falls into the sea at St. Mary's, 
where it forms a good harbour. 

The soil and climate are both assimilated to South Carolina. 
There is a great proportion of good land in upper Georgia, and 
the sea-islands are numerous and rich. — Lower Georgia, being 
farther to the south, is a little warmer than South Carolina. 

The first settlement of Georgia was made in 1 732, under the 
direction of a society of gentlemen, who acted as trustees ; and 
general Oglethorpe landed at Savannah with 113 settlers. In 
1734, they were joined by 130 highlanders from Scotland, and 
170 Germans. Georgia suffered severely in the struggle for inde- 
pendence, and was frequently the seat of war. The state consti- 
tution was adopted in 1780. Georgia now sends two senators and 
four representatives to congress. 

The state is divided into 24 counties, and these compose two 
judiciary districts. The population, by the census of 1800, was 
102,987 free persons, and 59,697 slaves, making a total of 162,684, 
being somewhat more than 3 to the square mile. 

There are but few towns in Georgia. Savannah and Augusta 
have been noticed. The others are mostly situated on the waters. 

Besides Savannah and iVugusta, there is, on the Savannah river, 
a little town called Petersburg ; and in the interior, between the 
Savannah and Ogeeche, is JVaskhigto?i. Both these are thriving 
places. 

On the great Ogeeche, there are, besides Louisville, Sparta and 
Cheetisbwg. 

On the Altamaha and its waters, Daiien, a new seaport, Mil- 
LEDGEViLLE, the new seat of government, and Athejis^ the seat of 
a college. 

On St. Mary's river is the town of St. Mari/s, nt the southern 
extremity of the state. 

The agriculture and produce of the state arc nearly similar to 
those of South Carolina. 

A great degree of attention has been paid, in Georgia, to edu- 
cation ; and very considerable U7nds have been ajipropriated to the 
support of it. The college at Athens is amply endowed, and pro- 
vision is made for establishing and keeping up an academy in every 



Georgia; 209 

county in the state. In the towns, there are very good common 
schools ; but the state is yet defective as to the establishment of 
these most useful seminaries throughout the country. It should be 
mentioned, however, that in this, and all the southern states, the 
population is too thin to admit of the establishment of schools upon 
the plan of the townships of the northern states, or the parishes in 
Scotland. By looking at the census, it will be seen, that in this 
state, for example, a township of six miles square, or 36 square 
miles, only contains about 112 persons; from which if we deduct 
the proportion of black people, it leaves only 75 ; and this number 
would not be sufficient to support a school. On the other liand, 
there is much waste land, and those districts that are settled up, 
often contain much more than this proportion ; sometimes, indeed, 
a sufficient number for the purpose mentioned. Whenever that is 
the case, a school should be established. 

Before taking leave of this subject, I may notice, that the best 
plan of establishing country schools, probably, is to appropriate a 
public fund equal to one-half of what may be considered a reason- 
able salary to the teacher, and let him depend on his class for the 
other half. This appears to be a happy medium between the plan 
of allowing the teacher to depend wholly on his class, and that of pro- 
viding a public fund for the whole of the salary. In the one case, the 
teacher is not sufficiently independent ; in the other, education, by 
being made too cheap,, is not sufficiently prized. In the way point- 
ed out, the independence of the teacher is in part secured, and the 
dependence on a contingency for the remainder has a tendency to 
stimulate both teacher and pupils to exertion. 

In all cases, provision should be made, that the children of the 
poor may be taught gratis. Good education is a blessing of ines- 
timable value to a community, and should be within the reach of 
every member. 

The constitution declares, that " arts and sciences shall be pro- 
moted, in one or more seminaries of learning ; and the legislature 
shall give such further donations and privileges to those already estab- 
lished, as may be necessary to secure the objects of their institution." 

On the subject of religion, it is declared, that " no person with- 
in the state shall, upon any pretence, be deprived of the inesti- 
mable privilege of worshipping God in a manner agreeable to his 
own conscience, nor be compelled to attend any place of worship, 
contrary to his own faith and judgment; nor ;»hall he ever be 

27 



210 TRAVELS ON 

obliged to pay tythes, taxes, or any other rates, for the building 
or repairing any place of worship, or for the maintenance of any 
minister or ministry, contrary to what he believes to be right, or 
hath engaged to do. No religious society shall ever be established 
in tliis state in preference to any other : nor shall any person be 
denied the enjoyment of any civil right, merely on account of re- 
ligious principles." 

The civil government is vested in an assembly, consisting of a 
senate and house of representatives, a govei'nor, and a judiciary. 

The assembly are elected annually, and all free white persons, 
who are of age, and v/ho have paid taxes, have a vote. 

The governor is appointed for two years, by the legislature.- 

The judges are elected by tlie legislatm-e for three years. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

Savannah, — Ships of "war, — Liverpool. 

Sunday, 12th Apnl, ISO?. The period for my leavmg Sa- 
vannah being arrived, I engaged a passage by the Eliza, Captain 
Starks, and this morning went on board at Five Fathom Hole, 
at nine o'clock. The other passengers were two gentlemen, na- 
tives of Scotland, settled as merchants in Savannah : one gentle*- 
man, a native of Scotland, who had been resident in Savannah, 
and was proceeding to Liverpool to settle there ; an English gen- 
tleman, settled as a merchant in the upper country ; and a young" 
trentleman from South Carolina, who was going over to get his 
educatioPi in England. 

Every thing being prepared, the ship weighed, and proceeded 
down the liver with a fair but light breeze ; but on reaching Four 
Mile Point, a few miles below, the wind veered about to the south- 
east, and we were obliged to come to anchor, where we lay the 
remaininji- part of the day, and all the next night, tortured by 
riiusquotocs. 

Monday, ISth. The wind having, come romid to the north- 
west, and blowing a fine breeze, we weighed anclior at 10 o'clock, 
and o^lided down the river very swiftly. At half past eleven we 
were up with the light-house, and at twelve we passed the bar, 
and dicharged the pilot. 



THE A.TLANTIC OCEAN.' 211 

We had now a delightful breeze ; and the Eliza, being one of 
the fastest sailing ships in America, and well trimmed, darted 
through the water with great rapidity. And Captain Starks, the 
commander, did her every justice ; to use his own phrase, he 
did crack on the muslin. We seldom made less than 150 miles a 
day, and one day we had the remarkable run of 253 miles. In 
ten days we were past the banks of Newfoundland, after which we 
had a series of north-east winds, which kept us too much to the 
southward, but, as the Eliza sailed remarkably well upon the 
wind, we still made pretty good progress. 

On the 27th of April, we discovered a vessel to windward bear- 
ing right down upon us, under French colours. On getting suf- 
ficiently near, she fired a gun ahead, and we hove to, not a little 
apprehensive of the result. On coming along side, the captain 
hailed us in broken English, and said he would send a boat a- 
board pour chearche our papieres. A boat was accordingly dis- 
patched, and the lieutenant, a young Scotsman, jumping aboard, 
told us that the vessel was the Rattler sloop of war, captain Auo-u- 
ziez, and that they used the French flag and language for a decoy. 
We were delighted with this account, treated the officer with a 
glass of our best Madeira ; and he, having examined our papers 
and found every thing correct, told us we might make sail as soon 
as we observed the signal from the vessel ; so saying, he jumped 
into the boat. On reaching the ship, he again returned with 
the captain's compliments, who, having his lady and two children 
aboard, requested that we would sell them some sweet flour and 
biscuit. We immediately made up an assortment of these articles, 
and some others, which the captain sent with a return of his com- 
pliments; and receiving the signal, we made sail, and parted 
with mutual good wishes. 

The northerly winds still continued, and the weather was very 
wet and cold ; but we made pretty good progress, and, by the 
ith of May, we were witiiin a few days' sail of Cape Clear, when 
we were brought to and boarded by the Dryade frigate, of 44 
guns and 250 men,^ captain Drummond commander. The board- 
ing officer here was also a Scotsman, and, like the other, behaved 
with great politeness. 

He told us they had been one of the convoy to the West In- 
dia fleet, as far as the latitude of 30 ; that they had been out 
five weeks, and were to cruize between the (^hannel and Western 



2\% TRAVFLS ON 

Islands tyfQ months. He reported their longitude to be 22° 54' 
by the chronometer. Having put a quantity of letters on board 
for England, he told us we might set sail as soon as they made 
the signal. 

As we were now drawing near our native shores, and antici- 
pating a happy meeting with our friends, we were all in good 
spirits, and had various theatrical representations in the style 
of the grand sultan and his faithful slave Shacabac, which great- 
ly astonished and amused the ship's company. We had also a 
series of moral regulations, which laid a pretty severe penalty on 
swearing. I was appointed the executor of this branch of the 
law ; but I sometimes found a difficulty in putting it into execu- 
tion, particularly with our Liverpool merchant, who, when we 
reached the Channel, told us flatly, that, being now in the Brit- 
ish king's dominions, he would swear if we were all d — d on't. 
As the gentleman was tmder the infitie7ice of the cro'wn, we were 
e'en obliged to submit to royal authority, and the fines were 
thenceforth remitted. 

We passed Cape Clear on the 10th, and had a fine view of the 
Irish coast, from the cape to the Old Head of Kinsale. As we 
glided along with a fair wind, a little pilot boat came off from the 
land to meet us, and try to persuade us, no doubt, that there 
would be a great big storm, and that we must take a pilot and 
run in for the coast. But the Eliza outsailed him, and he fell a 
little astern. He had all his canvass hoisted to the breeze, but 

without effect. " By J s, you sail d d sharp, captain !" 

iiaid he. " Pretty well," said the captain. " Now, if you would 
only back your mizen-sail a bit, I would come aboard and tell you 
all about the land." " Thank you, thank you," said the captain, 
*' but I happen to know something about it already." " Then 
you may go to the mischief with yourself," exclaimed Paddy; 
*' you'll be catched in a great big storm to-night, and the d — 1 
make matter." So saying, he put about and stood toward the 
coast. 

On the 11th we passed the Cove of Cork, which presents from 
sea a most picturesque view. On the 12th, we passed the curious 
insulated rock, well known to seamen by the name of Tuscar. 
Next morning we were round Skerries -ligiit, when we were en- 
veloped in a fog so thick that we were obliged to lie to. Here we 
ouud the brig Lucy from Sayaunah, in the same situation. She 



THE ATIANTIC OCEAN. 2J3 

had sailed fourteen days before us, and was likely to get into port 
some time after us. 

About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, the fog cleared away, but 
the wind veered about, right ahead, and we made little progress. 
Next morning, however, we were on pilot ground, and soon dis- 
covered a boat, to which' we made signal, which was answered 
by putting one of her hands on board. 

We immediately flocked xound the pilot to learn tlie news, 
but he could tell us nothing, except that there was a new election 
in Liverpool. He could assign no reason, but said it was thought 
Mr. Roscoe woukl not be member again : we were lost in con- 
jecture. 

The head winds continued, and we did not make the north-west 
buoy till the 14<th, when we were obliged to come to anchor. 
Durintr the nifflit it blew a furious gale : as we were fast at an- 
chor, abreast of the " fast-anchored isle," we did not feel it much, 
but a pretty lively idea of it may be formed from the captain's 
account : he said " it was enough to blow the hair out of a fel- 
low's head." The gale continued all next day, and there was no 
possibility of getting on shore, though we were very anxious. At 
length, about mid-day, a pilot boat hove in sight, and we made 
signal for her. She came along side, and sent out her yawl, into 
which the passengers got with considerable difficulty, and such 
was the swell, that we were at one time in the most imminent dan- 
ger of being upset before we got on board the boat. After we 
did get on board, however, we were recompensed for the danger 
we had undergone. We got some fine beef and potatoes, and a 
file of newspapers ; and here I made the discovery that a great 
political change had taken place in Britain, which augured most 
important consequences to the world ; and particularly to that 
portion of it we had lately left — America. 

At one o'clock, we landed at Hoyle-lake, where, thanking God 
for our safety, and kissing our parent earth, we pursued our way 
to a tavern in the neicjhbourhood. 

Having, at the tavern, prcciu-ed saddle horses, and a guide to 
accompany us, we set out for Liverpool, distant about seven miles, 
and made a pretty respectable cavalcade. In our way we enjoy- 
ed the land scenery as much as the blustering weather would al- 
low us. When we were about half way, I rode towards the 
guide, and asked hov,' flir we were from Liverpool. " Indeed I 



214 TRAVELS IN 

doan't know," said he. " Oh," said I, " I presume you are a 
stranger here as well as myself." ^' A7ian.'" said he. " Anan !" I'e- 
peated I, with surprise, " why, I suppose you have never travel- 
led this road before." " O yeaz, zur, an hundred tymes." " What, 
and don't know the distance we have yet to go !" " No I doan't." 
*' Nor the distance we have come?" "No, nor that neither.'* 
*' Nor the whole distance?" " Noa ; I know how to get thear, and 
I know how to get back agean, and that's all I know about the 
meater." Here is a pretty specimen of intelligence, thinks 1 to 
myself. " Only think of that, master Brook !" and contrast it with 
the keen inquisitive disposition and shrewd answers of a New- Eng- 
land man. 

We reached the ferry about 4 o'clock, and immediately crossed 
over to Liverpool, where we agreed to rendezvous at the King's 
Arms tavern ; and constituting the Liverpool merchant our stew- 
ard, to bespeak a dinner, we took each our several way, as busi- 
ness or friendship directed. 



CHAPTER XLV. 

JLiverpoool, — Election, — Chairing the members. 

After parting with the company, I went immediately to the 
coffee-house, to examine into the causes of the change of councils; 
and to form a judgment, if possible, what effect the measure 
would have upon the American trade. I took a file of the Lon- 
don Courier on the one liand, and of the Morning Chronicle on 
the other, and traced the whole proceedings, step by step, till I 
came to lord Grenville's explanation in the house of lords, and 
that of Mr. Grey in the commons. I saw that bigotry, prejudice, 
illiberal ity, and corruption, had prevailed over virtue, patriotism, 
and integrity. I exclaimed, woe is my country I and, with a hea- 
vy heart, went to join my companions at the dinner table. 

The next object of inquiry, and in which I was most deeply 
interested, was the probable effect that this change would have 
upon the American relations; and here again my anticipations 
were far from beinrj favourable. I observed that one part of the 
play upon the passions of the English nation, and a very success- 
ful one, was to hold out the idea of a " universal monopoly of 



ENGLAND. 215 

trade." The doctrine was openly and loudly promulgated by the 
new ministry and their partisans, that there was no use in hav- 
ing a naval force created at such an expence, unless it was so orga- 
nized and conducted a 5 to controul the trade of the world in fa- 
vour of Britain. The sea ought of right to be British property, 
and not a vessel should sail the ocean but by British permission. 
Bonaparte had conquered all the land, and Britain should con- 
quer all the sea; and the late administration were charged with a 
criminal neglect of duty in not enforcing these principles. I saw 
reason to dread that they would be enforced now. I knew, or 
tliought I knew, that America would not submit to them ; and 
hence I feared a rupture. I observed, however, that Mr. Erskine 
was to be continued as ambassador, and, reflectmg on the nature 
of the American government, I considered that there would be 
no rupture on their part before they had tried negociation to the 
utmost. I therefore judged it expedient, under all circumstances, 
to go on with my business, and to take prompt measures to make 
my shipment accordingly. 

During the few days I stopped in Liverpool, I was ardently en- 
gaged in making commercial arrangements, and had time for few 
remarks that would be interesting to the general reader; I shall 
therefore only notice two or three circumstances, calculated to show 
the temper of the times. 

We were informed that there had been an election in Liverpool 
two days before we arrived. The tory candidates were generals 
Tarleton and Gascoyne ; the whig candidate, Mr. Roscoe. Tory 
principles were tremendously triumphant — so, much so that Mr. 
Roscoe durst not even appear at the hustings ; and his friend, colo- 
nel Taylor, who was proceeding there in his behalf, was intercepted 
by a band of armed men, and had his horse killed under him. 

The tavern where we lodged was mostly frequented by travellers 
on business, and the evenings were generally devoted to long and 
fervent discussions, sometimes animated debates. As the company 
were collected from all quarters of the island, we had a good oppor- 
tunity of learning the public sentiment in general ; and it appeared 
to me to be in favour of the new ministry, by a vast majority of the 
leading men in the country. 

During my stay in Liverpool, " the chairing of the members," 
as it is called, took place. It vv^as conducted in this way: Chairs, 
of elegant workmanship, were provided, richly ornamented with 



216 TRAVELS IN 

silks and draper}', principally of the colour of the members' livery : 
they had cushions for seats, and two sides supported a pavilion roof 
on each : they were borne ori appropriate carringes, having two 
poles, and the candidates were carried on them by a number of 
men, from the plttce of election through those parts of the town 
that fancy or vanity directed. 

In this procession General Tarleton took the lead. His livery 
was green, the other's blue. They were both richly dressed in re- 
gimentals. They stood up uncovered in the chairs, and proceeded 
slowly along, looking and bowing in all directions to the populace, 
who in return waved streamers of green and blue ribbons from 
the windows. Round each chair were a number of persons carry- 
ing poles with boards nailed to the tops of them j and labels pasted 
on the boards. These also deserve notice. " No popery." " Church 
and king." " Long live the king." " No dictating to the royal 
conscience." " If I forsake my king, may God forsake me ;" and 
a hundred other sayings, the presumed sentiments of the members, 
were thus exhibited to the multitude; who, in return, testified their 
loyalty in I'cpeated claps and huzzas, accompanied by flourishes of 
blue and igrreen ribbons. Even the members of the frail sisterhood, 
with which the to^vn swarms, were flourishing away in green and 
blue, in all directions, damning pink and Mr. Roscoe, and swear- 
ing to their loyalty and their devotion to the king and the two 
generals. 

In the afternoon I met witli a friend in the street, and' wc adjoutnl- 
ed to a tavern to get some porter. Here we found a crowd of mot- 
ley politicians, with some of whom I entered into conversation; when 
1 found, to my great astonishment, that the privilege of a freeman 
in Liverpool could only be obtained by seven years servitude to a"^ 
freeman ; and that such freemen only had a vote for members of 
parliament. Hence a great number of the most opulent and res- 
pectable merchants in this very important seaport arc totally exclud- 
ed from voting ; and the exercise of that privilege is confined to a 
class of men, many of whom are very ill calculated for exercising its 
important functions. Of this v.'e had some very decisive proof be- 
fore I left the house, particularly from one man, who, while he plum- 
ed himself upon his right, as he termed it, and exhibited, with no' 
small exultation, his bit of green ribbon, which he called his livery, 
showed by his conversation that right and wrong were subjects on 
which he was very incompetent to form an opinion. I am afraid 
that too many of the voters in Liverpool are of that description. 



ENGLAND. 2 1 7 

The elective franchise is «a most sacred trust,and ought to be ex- 
ercised with great circumspection, inasmuch as it is the very safe- 
guard of the Hberties of a nation. Hence, those entrusted with it 
should be carefully informed of their duties as well as rights; and 
hence the importance of diffusing knowledge among the mass of the 
people. They constitute the wealth and strength of a nation : they 
arc generally honest in intention ; but knowledge alone can regu- 
late their actions so as to produce a beneficial result in practice. 
Unfortunately, however, a strong prejudice exists among many who 
have received a liberal education themselves, against any plan hav- 
ing for its object the general ctiffusion of that inestimable blessing ; 
and we may, of course, expect that those who object to their fellow 
men participating with them in knowledge, will also object to their 
participating with them in power. In such a state of society, wher- 
ever power may partially extend to the mass of the people, as in the 
case before us, we may expect to see it abused. But in this enlight- 
ened period of the world, we may hope soon to see both knowledge 
and power generally diffused among mankind, and that a period of 
political jealousy and discord will be succeeded by a happy period 
of " peace on earth and good will among men." 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

Liverpool, — Lancaster, — Carlisle, — Glasgow. 

ijJLAY 19th. I set out for Glasgow, accompanied by one of our 
passengers, whose connexions lived in that ciiy. The conveyance 
from hence to Carlisle was by what is culled the heavy or long coach, 
and it took two days to perform the journey, 124 miles. 

We started at 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, and passing through 
Ormskirk and Preston, reached Lancaster, 55 miles from Liverpool, 
where we stopped for dinner. The weather was agreeable; the 
country, in all that distance, is well cultivated, exhibiting a very 
pi'etty appearance. Ormskirk is a place of little consequence; but 
Preston has a population of 14,000, and carries on manufactures, 
particularly in cotton, to a great extent. 

Lancaster is the county town, handsomely situated at the mouth 
of the river Lone, and contains about 8000 inhabitants. It has con- 
siderable commerce, but very little to America; its chief manu- 

28 



218 TRAVELS IN 

factures bein^ sail-cloth, furniture, hardware, candles, &c. Tha 
duke of BridgeAvater's canal runs near Lancaster, and crosses the 
river by a very spacious aqueduct bridge, built of hewn stone, which 
lias a fine appearance when viewed from the road. 

After dinner, we continued our journey 18 miles to Kendjvl, 
where we stopped for the night. The country is pleasant all the 
way to Kendal ; and, running through a hilly country, affords 
many fine views. 

One of our passengers was a shipping-merchant from London, 
and he expressed his disapprobation of the late ministrj^, in very 
severe terms, for not shutting up the carrying trade of the Ameri- 
cans. My fellow-traveller and I endeavoured to reason with him, 
and to point out the importance of the American trade to Britain, 
and the injustice that it would be to stop it : but this man of com- 
merce would listen to no reason, and would bend to no maxims of 
justice. " We are able to carry on the whole trade of the world,'* 
said he, " and we should have it. Our fleets are all-powerful, and 
wc should command it." He seemed to forget, that there are al- 
ways two at a bargain-making ; and that no nation can carry on a 
foreign trade alone. 

Kendal is beautifully situated in a fine healthy country, and the 
women have cheeks like roses. It is a pretty large town, and has 
considerable manufactories of cottons, woollens, stockings, hats, 
&c. ; some of which are calculated for the American trade. 

May 20th. We set out at 7 o'clock in the morning, and travelled 
through a rough, hilly country, called Siiap-Fells, 27 miles, to 
Penrith. The country is but thinly inhabited in this district, and the 
inhabitants seem to be mostly employed in raising sheep and geesc- 
Penrith is a neat little place, containing about 3000 people. 
The country to the eastward is high and barren, but it is fertile to 
the westward, and abounds in thriving farms. The country im- 
proves towards Carlisle, 18 miles distant, round which it is culti- 
vated like a garden. 

Having reached Carlisle about 1 o'clock, we proposed going on 
to Glasgow by the London mail, expected in half an hour, and, in 
the mean time, we took a walk through the town. 

Carlisle is prettily situated, and contains a ])opulation of 10,000. 
It is favourably situated for carrying on manufactures, which are in 
an improved state, and consist of cotton-spinning and weaving ; 
printing and dying; coarse linens and Osnaburghs ; hats, hosiery, 



ENGLAND. 219 

leather, ropes, and several kinds of woollens. Some of the articles, 
particulai'ly printed calicoes, are in high repute. 

On the arrival of the mail stage, we found all the inside places 
taken, and we had no alternative but to wait another day, or take 
outside places. The latter was resolved on ; and, having mounted 
on the top, the coach drove on. We antici})ated that we would 
suffer a little from the cold, albeit it was late in May, but we were 
sure that if all kept well, we could see our fiiends by 7 o'clock 
in the morning. 

Ten miles from Carlisle, we passed through Longtown, a small 
place on the confines of England ; and a little beyond this we 
crossed a little stream, and hailed 

" Old Scotia, our dear, our native soil." 

Here we had a very extensive view. Solway firth, a very large in- 
let from the Irish sea, was on our right ; and beyond it, the Cum- 
berland mountains, some of them of great magnitude. To the 
west, north-west, and north, we saw 50 or 60 miles into the in- 
terior of Scotland ; and a fine champaign country lay on our rear 
towards Carlisle. 

Four miles from hence is the village of Gretna Gi'een, celebrat" 
ed for the coupling blacksmith who Uves in it. The laws of mar- 
riage in Scotland are very simple. If two persons agree to marry, 
they can carry their intention into effect by declaring their union 
before witnesses; and this, though contrary to the rules of the 
cliurch, and to the general practice of the country, constitutes a 
legal marriage. It is also applicable to the natives of South Britain 
when they come to the north ; on which account, it frequently 
happens, that when a gentleman and lady in England fall in love, 
and cannot live without one another, while they are so unfortunate 
as not to be able obtain the consent of their friends, they set off 
on a matrimonial trip to Scotland ; and this being the nearest vil- 
lage, on one of the great roads, such marriages are frequently 
.solemnized here. The person who acts as parson on the occasion, 
but who, in truth, is only, along with one or two more, a witness 
to the declaration, is called a coupling blacksmith ; and the whole cir- 
cumstance has given rise to a humorous farce, called Gretna Green. 

The road beyond this place was very rough, but it was dry. 
We had a fine evening; but towards night it became very cold. 
We passed Locherby, a small place, and reached MofTat, fifty 



220 TRAVELS IN 

miles from Carlisle^ to supper. This is a little place among the 
hillsj and only merits notice as the stopping-place of the stages, on 
the way to and from England. There are some good medicinal 
springs in its neighbourhood. 

Leaving Moffat, we had to cross a large chain of hills ; but I can 
give no particular account of the configuration of the country ; 
for, though I have often passed through it, it has always been in 
the night. The night was now very cold ; but a gentleman left the 
mail at Moffat, and we engaged his seat ; so we changed guard, 
and took, as the sailors call it, " spell and spell about" of the inside. 

In this way we passed the sources of the Clyde, and the Lead 
hills to the right, and journeyed onward at a good pace. As I was 
taliing my outside station, about day-light, I heard a dialogue be- 
tween the two drivers in broad Scots, being the first 1 had heard 
for 14 months; and, such is the effect of habit, that, although I 
considered myself a sort of adept at the Scottish language, and 
had frequently practised it, this had a surprising effect upon my 
ear. It appeared more broad than any thing I had ever heard be- 
fore. "A, Johnny, min," says the one, "Icanna get this thing 
fixt." " Can ye no ?" said the other ; " what ails't?" « Goth, I 
dinna ken weel ; but it winna draw through wi* me." " Ye'll bet- 
ter cut it." " Na, I'll no fash to do that yet ; I'll tak my teeth 
till't." I could not see what they were about; but they soon got 
it to rights, whatever it was, and we drove on. 

About sun-rise, we reached the village of Hamilton, the seat of 
one of the most ancient families of Scotland. It is 11 miles from 
Glasgow, on the river Clyde, in a fine fertile valley, and is noted 
for raising fruit, A great many muslin weavers, who work for the 
manufacturers of Glasgow, live at this place. Indeed, they are 
scattered all over the country. 

We passed Clyde iron-works, the second in extent in Scotland, 
and reached Glasgow at 7 o'clock, when I had a joyful meeting 
■with m^. friends, after an absence of nearly 15 months. 



ENGLAND. S2l 

CHAPTER XLVII. 

Glasgo'w, — Mayichester, — heeds, — Edinburgh. 

I CONTINUED in Glasgow until the 19th of June, when, in 
prosecution of my commercial business, I set out for England. I 
took a passage by the mail coach, and travelled through Carlisle 
and Preston, to Manchester. The country from Preston to Man- 
chester is probably among the richest in England. The fields are 
well culti varod ; the houses are so close, that it looks like a conti- 
nued village; and the quantity of machinery and bleach-fields that 
every v/here appears is immense. The road passes through Char- 
ley and Bolton, both manufacturing villages; but the whole of 
their trade is subservient to Manchester, which may be consider- 
ed as the great manufacturing capital of all England. The dis- 
tance from Preston to Manchester is 36 miles. 

From Manchester I found it necessary to go to Liverpool, dis- 
tant 36 miles. The road passes through a rich, well -cultivated, 
level country, in which are two considerable villages, Warrington 
and Prescott. The country becomes more sterile towards Liver- 
pool; but this part of it is beautified by many seats, the property 
of the Liverpool merchants. Among the number is Gilead Hall, 
the seat of Dr. Solomon, of Balm of Gilead memmijy one of the 
most beautiful buildings in England. 

My commercial friend in Liverpool being a prompt man of 
business, I made an arrangement with him, in the course of a few- 
hours, to my entire satisfaction ; and immediately returned to 
Manchester. From the ample assistance afforded me by my friends, 
I was able to expedite my business in this place with ^reat cele- 
rity, and I had an excellent opportunity of observing the very ex- 
tended manufactures and commerce of this place, and. their appli- 
cation to the American trade. 

Manchester, though it ranks only as a village, is a place of 
great antiquity, a town having been raised here by the Romans 
in the 97th year of the Christian aera, and is now, in point of 
population, the second town in England; — in manufactures de^ 
cidedly the first. The strtets are about 600 m number, and some 
of them spacious; but a great many are too narrow, and the town 
is, upoo the whole, very irregular. The number of houses i« 



222 TRAVELS IN 

computed at upwards of 12,000, and the inhabitants amount to 
84',020. 

Manufactures have been established at this place for upwards of 
200 years, and have been continually encreasing ; but the encrease 
since the application of machinery, on an extended scale, to the 
cotton trade, and particularly since the introduction of Bolton 
and Watt's improved steam engine, exceeds all former example, 
in any place or any countr\'. There are a vast number of cotton 
mills erected in the town, and many of them employ upwards of 
1000 hands. The quantity of raw material consumed annually 
in this brancli, is immense, and a bare enumeration of the articles 
it is manufactured into, would fill a number of pages. Those 
most calculated for the American trade are fustians, waistcoat- 
ings, shirtings, cambrics, dimities, painted callicoes, nankeens, 
jeans, checks, ginghams, chambrays, table napery, stockings, 
gloves, braces, bed-quilts, &c. &c. Of other articles there are 
also extensive and important manufactures, such as hats, silks, 
tapes, fringes, laces, &c. ; and Manchester is a general market 
for the manufactures of the whole country, particularly every de- 
scription of woollens. 

From Manchester I travelled to Bury, nine miles, through an 
uneven, but fertile and well-cultivated country, 'i'lxe principal 
manufactures here are woollens, particulai'Iy plains, coatings, blan- 
kets, and flannels. 

From Bury to Rochdale is 6 miles, the country ncarl}- the same 
as the last mentioned. Here are considerable manufactures, par- 
ticularly flannels of a very excellent quality. 

From Rochdale to Halifax is 17 miles, partly through an ex- 
tensive moor; and the whole country is hilly, some of it romantic 
At Halifax there arc very extensive manufactures of woollens, 
particularly of broad and narrow cloths. 

From Halifax to Leeds is 18 miles, through a hilly country, of 
which the soil improves towards the latter. 

Leeds is beautifully situated in a very fertile country, and is 
the oreatest town in England for the woollen manufactures. The 
most important manufactures for America are broad and narrow 
cloths, flannels, serges, cassimeres, callimancocs, duranls, bom- 
bazeens, bombazetts, blankets, &c. The population is upwards 
of 53,000, and the town abounds in wealth. The country around 
is fertile and beautiful. 



ENGLAND. 



223 



From this place I passed about 12 miles, through a pretty 
well-settled country, but partly moor, to the great London road, 
with a view of taking my passage for Glasgow by the London 
mail. When the mail came forward, it was full, and I was disap- 
pointed; but a coach passed soon after for Newcastle, and being 
informed that the line was continued from thence to Edinburgh, 
I availed myself of that conveyance. 

It was about 11 o'clock at night when we set out, and, travel- 
ling all night, ^Ve passed through Northallerton, about 30 miles 
from where we started, at day-light next morning. The country, 
I was informed, is pretty fertile and well cultivated. 

From Northallerton to Durham is about 27 miles, through a 
pretty fertile country, and Durham, the capital of the county of 
the same name, is beautifully situated on the river Wear, sur- 
rounded by fertile and well cultivated fields. 

From Durham to Newcastle is 16 miles, partly through fertile 
fields, but the soil becomes worse towards Newcastle, and in that 
neighbourhood the country abounds with coal mines. We had 
frequent and extensive view of the German Ocean by the way, 
and I could not help contrasting the breadth of the country, not 
much more than a day's journey, with the extended country which 
I had lately left. Ought not Britain, exclaimed I mental!}', to be 
proud of having' settled America, to conciliate the affections of 
her growing population, and to cultivate a good understanding ? 

Newcastle is situated on the river Tyne, and is large and popu- 
lous, but irregular, and not very clean ; it is chiefly remarkable 
for its great coal trade, the greater part of the supply of the English 
metropolis being derived from it. 

Here I stopped all night, and started by the coach for Edin- 
burgh next morning, at 5 o'clock. At It miles from Newcastle, 
we reached Morpeth, an inconsiderable town, and, 19 miles fur- 
tlier, we reached Alnwick, the seat of the earl of Northumberland. 
The castle is beautifully situated on an eminence, and it is sur- 
rounded by a high wall at a distance, which encloses, I presume, 
nearly 300 acres of ground, all laid out for grazing. The whole 
has u most magnificent appearance. From Alnwick to Berwick 
is 27 miles. In the whole distance from Newcastle to Berwick, 
tlie country presents a pretty uniform appearance. The soil, ex- 
cept at some particular places, is rather thin. There are high 
lands to the west, and to the east is the German ocean, ajouf' 



224 TRAVELS IN 

which the road runs within a few miles the whole way. To- 
wards Berwick, it is almost close along shore. 

Berjiick is situated on the Tweed, near the border of Scotland, 
and is a pretty populous, but irregularly built town, and carries 
on considerable manufactures. But it is chiefly remarkable for 
the salmon fisheries, which are very extensive, and employ a num- 
ber of small vessels in the London trade, called Berwick smacks. 

A few miles from Berwick, we passed the Scottish border, at 
which a house was pointed out, where matrimonial contracts are 
made on the same principle as at Gretna Green. After passing 
this place, the road leaves the sea-coast, and crosses the country 
through elevated lands, but apparently pretty fertile, and under 
excellent cultivation; and this continues to Dunbar, toward 
which the road approaches the coast of the Firth of Forth. 

Dunbar is a pretty large and ancient town, finely situated on 
the Forth, from whence there is an elegant view of the singular 
rock called the Bass, North-Berwick Law, the- coasts of the firth, 
and the interior of the county of Fife. It is 11 miles from Ber- 
wick to Haddington, a considerable place, and ] 6 miles more 
to Edinburgh, the caj)ital of Scotland. In all this distance the 
soil is excellent, aud the agriculture in the most improved state. 
We reached Edinburgh at 10 o'clock at night, having travelled 
this day 120 miles. 

Edinburgh is, witliout exception, the most beautiful city that I 
have yet seen. Its situation is singular. To the eastward of the 
city is a conical hill, called Arthur's Seat : its base is probably a- 
bout half a mile in diameter, and it is 700 feet high. To the north- 
west of this is a ridge of hills called Salisbury Craigs, probably a- 
bout one third of a mile in length, and about 350 feet high, having 
a srecp acclivity on the west, which overhangs the eastern part of 
the city. Near the foot of these the city commences, and from 
thence the Iligh-strcet runs due west about a mile, rising at an an- 
cle of about 10 deorees from the horizon, and at its extremity is 
terminated by the Castle, on a rock, from whence there is a perpen- 
dicular descent of about 350 feet. This ridge is only of sufficient 
breadth on the top to form the street, from whence it immediately 
falls by a steep descent on both sides, and nearly to a level with the 
foot of the High-street. To the south, a narrow street called the 
Cowgate, runs in the hollow, and, beyond it, the ground again im- 
mediately rises, and spreads out into an open plain, on which stands 



SCOTLAND. 225 

tlie south part of the town. The hollow to the north is called the 
North Loch, because it was once filled with water ; but it is now 
drained ; and to the north of it the ground rises, and spreads out 
into a fine plain, on which the New Town is built. 

To the east of the New Town there is a smaller hill called Calton 
Hill, which is public property, and affords fine walks and most a- 
greeable prospects. 

The Old Town is remarkable for its singular configuration, and 
lofty houses, some of them 14 stories high; and the New 
Town, whether we view it in regard to the elegance of its plan, or 
the regularity, symmetry, and beauty of its buildings, is beyond all 
comparison the most elegant city I ever saw. 

The Old and New Towns are connected by the North Bridge, 
an elegant building, which crosses the North Loch ; and a fine street 
is continued across the High-street, and b}^ the South Bridge cross- 
es the Cowgate, and connects the south part with the north part. 
This bridge has elegant buildings on each side, except at the mid- 
dle, where they are interrupted by the Cowgate; and here the view 
is as singular as can well be imagined : being elevated on the bridge, 
you see the busy inhabitants below, to the east and west, the whole 
length of the street. 

Leith is considered as the port of Edinburgh, and is connected 
with it by a very broad avenue, nearly two miles long, called Leith 
Walk. The whole population of Edinburgh and Leith was, in 
1801, 82,560. 

The whole adjacent country abounds in rich scenerv, and well 
cultivated fields and gardens ; and from its peculiar configuration, 
it exhibits a greater variety of fine views than any other place I have 
ever seen. 

Edinburgh is the seat of the supreme court, and the law has become 
a fashionable study among the nobility and gentry of Scotland ; the 
greater part of whom have their winter residence in the city. This 
circumstance not only affords a permanent fund for the support of 
the city, but forms an assemblage of beauty and fashion rarely c- 
qualled ; and the winter assemblies and fashionable parties have a 
brilliancy and splendour not to be found, probably, in any other 
part of the world. 

The seminaries of education, and other literary and scientific in- 
stitutions, are known and prized all over the world. As the citv 
draws its permanent support from land, it has not its dependence 

29 



226 TRAVELS IN 

on foreign commerce, like the manufacturing and commercial citie?. 
Though the manufactures are considerable, they are mostly calcu- 
lated for internal trade. 

The state of society is, generally speaking, excellent. The peo- 
ple are well informed, frank, and generous. As for the ladies, they 
are elegant to a proverb ; those who have ever been on " Leith 
Walk in the gloaming," can bear witness to their " angelic forms," 
their " rosy complexions," and their " witching smiles." But as 
I might be accused of partiality for my fair countrywomen were I 
to speak ray mind on this subject, I shall take my leave of the E- 
dinburgh ladies by addressing the younger part of them in the 
words of Robert Burns : 

" God make ye guld as well as braw. 
And send ye lads in plenty." 

1 left the capital of Scotland at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and 
reached Glasgow, 42 miles distant, a quarter before 10, which was 
pretty quick travelling. I have frequently heard it remarked that 
the Telegraph, by which I travelled, is under better regulations 
than any public coach in Scotland, except the Mail. In the first 
10 or 12 miles of this journey the country is pretty rich; the next 
14" miles it is cold and bleak, and but little cultivated : towards Glas- 
gow the soil again improves; but, generally speaking, the lands are 
much inferior to what they are in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh. 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

Glasgow, — Stirling, — Ct eiff", — Meth ven, — PertJi . 

Having completed my shipments, I had now little else to dt» 
but wait the return, and of course could pay some attention to pub- 
lic matters. The plans of the new ministry soon began to develope 
themselves. One of the most successful engines which they had 
used to oust their predecessors was to charge them with want of e- 
ncrgy ; and it became necessary for them to support their character 
by adopting energetic measures. Accordingly a great big expedi- 
tion was prepared, with much solemnity and parade; and having 
looked about in all directions for an object to wreak the vengeance 
ox the nation upon, they hit upon Denmark. Denmark was a qeu- 



SCOTLAND^ 227 

tral and friendly power ; but that was of no importance, — they could 
there strike a blow with effect, and convince the world of the tre- 
mendous power of Britain, and the energy of her ministers. The 
blow was struck — and a terrible blow it was for Denmark ; but it 
was more terrible still to Britain, — it laid her honour low in the 
dust, and pointed her out as the enemy of the civilized world. 

I dreaded that the next blow would be struck at America, — and 
so it was ; but in a different form : it was a blow at neutral trade. 
The famous orders in council made their appearance on the 1 1 th 
of November, 1807, and at one fell swoop prostrated the once flour- 
ishing trade of Britain and America at the feet of Bonaparte. 

People of all ranks were astonished at these proceedings of the 
cabinet. It was some time indeed before the nature of the orders 
in council was understood, such was the I'emarkable obscurity of the 
language in which they were drawn : and orders followed upon or- 
ders, for a month or six weeks, to explain them ; but their effects 
were soon felt. To me it was evident that the American people 
never would submit to them ; and I thought I had good reasons for 
forming that opinion. I had recently returned from America — 1 
had ardently studied the genius and power of that people — I knew 
that their spirit of stern independence would never submit to be dic- 
tated to where the}' should carry their own goods in their own ves- 
sels — I calculated that they had power to do without British trade, 
if they were driven to it. I trembled for the result ; and I wept 
by anticipation at the ruin of a business that I had organized with 
such labour, and in which all my capital and all my credit were 
embarked. But, a solitary individual, what could I do ? Those 
who wielded the power of the country had passed the law; and it 
was the fiat of fate. There was still a faint glimmering of hope left 
that parliament might, in its wisdom, repeal the orders in council ; 
and judging it expedient to contribute my mite of knowledge to an 
illustrious and independent member of that honourable bod\'^, I 
wrote the letter in the Appendix, No. 2. In drawing up this letter 1 
considered it my duty to give a short sketch of the view which ray 
observations led me to take of the American character, not only as 
an act of gratitude for the kind hospitahty of that people; but be- 
cause it was the fashion of the day, and supported by one of tlie 
most popular of the periodical writers, to traduce and vilify the 
country by every lying story that could be laid hold of. 

This letter was drawn up about the 20th of January, but it was 



^8 tRAVELS IN 

not sent off before the 27tli, by which time we had the news of 
the first fruits of the orders in council — the American embargo ; 
and this brought matters, as far as I was concerned, to issue. I 
knew from my letters that our funds would be blocked up in Geor- 
gia ; I could calculate upon no time for a return ; so I made the 
best arrangement that I could devise, under existing circumstances, 
and resolved to wait with as much patience as I could for the result. 

Having completed this arrangement, I took a journey to see 
my relations in the east countr3\ 

On the 12th of March, 1808, I left Glasgow by the stage for 
Stirling, distant 27 miles. The first 13 miles is through a pretty 
good country to the village of Cumbernauld, principally occupied 
by muslin weavers. Two miles beyond this the road passes the 
Forth and Clyde canal, a work of great utility, by which there is 
a sloop navigation from one side of the island to the other. Four 
miles from thence there is an extensive printfield, after which the 
road passes through a dreai'y moor, till within two or three miles 
of Stirling, when the Carse commences, one of the most fertile 
spots in Scotland. 

Stirling is situated on the Forth, at the head of sloop navigation, 
and is a place of great antiquity, having been long the residence of 
the Scottish kings, and is distinguished in the history of the wars 
with England. It is situated on a hill, somewhat like Edinburgh, 
terminated by a castle, from whence there is one of the most 
man-nificent views in Scotland. Stirling contains about 5200 people, 
who carry on considerable manufactures, of which carpetting is the 
chief. 

From Stirling to Dumblane is six miles, and the road winds 
through a country as romantic as can well be imagined. It is the 
opening of the Ochill Hills, in which is the confluence of three 
considerable rivers, the Forth, the Teith, and the Allan. 

Dumblane is situated on the latter, and is a small place, abound- 
ino- in little dirty houses, but ornamented with the remains of an 
old cathedral. From hence the road continues along the north 
side of the Sheriff' Moor, well known in Scottish history, 1 1 miles, 
when it winds to the northward, and proceeds through the Moor 
of Orchill, a very elevated country, from the summit ot which 
there is an extensive view, whence I could descry the seat of my 
nativity, 20 miles distant. 

Passing Muthil, a small village, the country improves for two 



ECOTIAND. 229 

miles to the banks of the river Erin, which we crossed by a good 
stone bridge, and thence ascended a pretty steep acclivity of 
halfl a mile, where, loftily situated on the brow of a hill, is the 
village of Crieff. 

This is but a small place, but it was interesting to me as being 
the country of my ancestors. I spent some little time among my 
relations, and then set forward for Methven, distant 1 1 miles. The 
country betv^een Crieff and Methven is tolerably good, and a turn- 
pike road has lately been made, which renders travelling very plea- 
sant and expeditious. 

Having spent a few days at this place, I shall avail myself of the 
opportunity to introduce an account of my native parish, which 
will serve to illustrate the parish establishment of Scotland gene- 
rally. 

The village of Methven is situated six miles to the westward of 
Perth : the parish is bounded by Fowlis on the west and north ; by 
Moneidy and Redgorton on the east ; and Tippermoor on the 
south. Its extreme length is about seven miles, and breadth three. 
Its area is about 19 square miles, and its contents in acres 12,000. 

The surface is undulating, some part of it hilly, but not moun- 
tainous ; it is well supplied with rivulets and springs ; and the river 
Almond, a romantic stream, abounding in falls and mill -seats, runs 
along its whole northern boundary, a distance of six or seven miles. 

The soil is very unequal. About five square miles consist of 
moor, which is unfit for cultivation, but affords turf and heath for 
fuel, and some little grazing. Two miles consist of moss, which is 
altogether unfit for any agricultural purpose, but affords excellent 
fuel, called therepeats. Two miles are in wood, called the wood 
of Methven. One mile is occupied with the policies of Meth- 
,ven castle, and about as much with those of Balgowan. Of 
the eight remaining miles, one third may be reckoned rather poor, 
but the remainder is good fertile land. 

The whole parish is owned by two proprietors, thence called 
heritors. Colonel Smith, of Methven, has the largest portion, 
probably not less than three fourths, and the remainder belongs to 
the celebrated general Graham, of Balgowan. There was until 
lately another pro[)ietor, vho owned an estate called Tipperraal- 
loch, consisting of about TOO acres of excellent land ; but not being 
entailed, it was sold, on Ids demise, by his heirs, to Smith of 
Methven, for .£17000. 



230 TRAVELS IN 

The present population is 1280 males, and 1373 females, in all 
2653, being nearly 140 to the square mile; which is a great popu- 
lation, when we consider the small quantity of good land in the 
parish. The total number of families is 577 ; of these, 1 37 are em- 
ployed in agriculture ; the remainder in trades and manufactures. 
The number of inhabited houses is 447, of which 1 49 are in the 
village of Methven. The number of families in the village is 
243 ; 25 of whom are employed in agriculture, the rest in manu- 
factures, trades, &c. The total number of inhabitants in tlie 
village is 950; of whom 100 are weavers, 18 shoemakers, 17 
masons, 9 taylors, 10 wrights (carpenters,) 4 stocking-makers, 2 
clock-makers, 2 butchers, and 7 store-keepers. 

The whole land in the parish being entailed, the farmers occupy 
their farms on rent from the proprietors ; and land lets at present 
from ^1 10s. to £3 5s. sterling, annually, per Scots acre, which 
is about one fifth more than an English acre. The farms are gene- 
rally let on leases of 19 years. 

The legal provision for the minit-ter of the parish consists of a 
house, called the vianse ; about 30 acres of land, called the glebe ,• 
and the remainder is paid by the heritors, who generally indemni- 
fy themselves by assessing it on the farmers to whom they let the 
land. The whole of the minister's income in this parish, is about 
^.300. The average in Scotland, generally, may be reckoned 
about .£.200. In every parish there is what is called a patron^ 
who has the gift of prese^itation ,• that is, when a vacancy takes 
place, he provides a candidate of his choice, and presents him to 
the people. If they vote for him, he is thenceforth minister of 
the parish ; if they are dissatisfied, he is settled as minister of the 
parish, 'nohethcr they will or not. In consequence of this law, a 
great schism took place in the church, and in almost every popu- 
lous parish there is a seccdcr meeting. In this parish nearly two 
thirds of the people are seceders. 

TIic schoolmaster is appointed by the heritors, and the legal 
provision in this parish is a house, school- house, and a garden, 
A small income arises from the office of session clerk ; and I be- 
lieve there are some little perquisites besides. The remainder of 
the income arises from the quarterly payments of such as go to 
school. It is now one shilling and six-pence per quarter, but in 
my young days it was only one shilling. The seceders have some- 
times a schoohnaster, and sometimes not. The office is generally 



SCOTLAND. 



rsi 



filled by one of their young men, who is a candidate for the min- 
istry ; but, from the necessary time that he must devote to other 
studies, it cannot be supposed that the establishment will be 
equal to the other, where there is a settled teacher ; though it an- 
swers the purpose of inducing the settled teacher to pay more close 
attention to his duty. 

I cannot better explain the order of the school and church, and 
their connexion one with another, than by giving a short sketch 
of the plan followed in my early life, which will also explain the 
moral economy of the parish. 

When I was five years of age, we lived a little more than half a 
mile from the village ; and I was sent to school along with an 
elder brother. The first book used in the school was the Shorter 
Catechism, which cost one halfpenny. The next in order was the 
Proverbs, pi-ice one penny; the third was the New Te-tament, 
price seven -pence or eight-pence. I went through the first two 
books, of course, and at seven years of age was in the New Testa- 
ment, at which time we removed to the village. The next 
gradation was the bible, accompanied by writing, and from thence 
to Latin and arithmetic ; the writing being continued. The hour 
of attendance in the morning was 9 o'clock in summer, and 
10 o'clock in winter; and the school was opened hy a short 
prayer. We had an interval from 1 to 2, and were dismissed at 6 
o'clock in the summer, and in winter a little before dark ; when 
we had again a short prayer. The Saturdays wei-e devoted to re- 
peat questions in the catechism ; and on Sunda\', besides attend- 
ance at church, which was strictly enjoined, we had to get a psalm 
by heart, which we repeated in the school on Monday morning. 
Those farther advanced in education, got by heart tlie proofs to 
the Shorter Catechism ; and sometimes we were appointed to re- 
peat them in church, after the morning service. 

The people assembled to church at 10 o'clock in the morninir, 
when the exercise began by singing from 8 to 12 lines of the Scots 
psalms. The schoolmaster was precentor, and all the people 
joined, often forming a most melodious concert. After sinoinor, 
the minister prayed, and then read a portion of the scriptures, on 
which he gave a lecture, which generally lasted about 40 minutes. 
When it was finished, he gave out another psalm to be sung, and 
this was called the mid-psalm. The minister then prayed, gave a 



223 TRAVELS IN 

sermon, and a prayer after it. He then gave out another psalm, 
and, with a benediction, dismissed the congregation. 

If there were any children to be baptised, they were presented 
immediately after singing the last psalm ; and this was performed 
■with great solemnity, in the face of the whole congregation. The 
parent was admonished to train up the child in the nurture and 
admonition of the Lord — to be exemplary in his family, and to give 
the child an education according to his circumstances; which hav- 
inop assented to, the child was admitted a member of the church 
by baptism, performed by sprinkling water on the face. In sum- 
mer there was an interval of about an hour, when the congrega- 
tion acain met, and the afternoon exercise was conducted in the 
same way, with the omission of the lecture and mid-psalm. 

The worship in the seceder church was periormed exactly in 
the same way, but was longer continued ; and they had an inter- 
val both in summer and winter. 

The religious tenets of the pai'ish were calvinistic, in which the 
established church was pretty liberal ; but the seceders were very 
rifTid and austere. No part of the discipline, however, had any 
tendency to clash with the established habits of the people, except 
that which prohibited promiscuous dancing ,- that is, men and 
womea dancing together. We had — for my mother was a seceder, 
and 1 was one of course — we had frequent addresses from the pul- 
pit on the profanity of this exercise, and the old douce elders and 
" unco guid" of the congregation were everlastingly admonishing 
the young and gay against the " awful judgment-like sin of dis- 
reo-arding the covenants, and standards of the church;" but so 
they might. The young and the gay would hear them, and some- 
times look c?omc^ on the occasion too; but let a fiddle and bass 
strike up to the tune of " The Highlandman kissed his mither," 
or the " Cameronian rant," the heart-inspiring strain would im- 
mediately vibrate through every avenue of the body; the young 
peasants, and often the old ones, would immediately start up and 
dance; nor would they have desisted (I speak of my young days,) 
I very believe, although Mess John had been in the room, ready 
to deliver them over to Satan, and his sooty darkness at his elbow, 
ready to execute the mandate. 

For my own part, I was passionately fond of Scottish music 
and dancing, from the earliest period of my remembrance ; and 
we had most delectable music in the parish. There was a man 



SCOTLAND. 233 

of the name of John Bowie, who played delightfully on the 
fiddle; and his brother Peter was equally celebrated on the 
bass. They performed at all the weddings round, and a wed- 
ding could not be held without music and dancing. To these 
it was the fashion for the young boj's, for many miles round, 
to go ; and I never failed to embrace every opportunity that pre- 
sented itself. Often, on a stormy winter night, have I walked 
three or four miles, plashing away through " dub and mire ;" 
but the moment that the sound of the fiddle reached my ears, it 
would set my heart a capering so, that I could hardly withstand 
the temptation to dance in the open fields, a quarter of a mile 
distant from the scene of action. 

I cannot devote more room to delineate the peculiar manners 
of the Scottish peasants. I shall therefore only observe here, that 
those in our parish were, generally speaking, sober, discreet, and 
virtuous ; and referring to the Appendix, No. 3, for further par- 
ticulars, I shall close this article by an extract from the celebrated 
Scottish bard, Robert Burns. 

O Scotia ! my dear, my native soil ! 

For whom my warmest wish to heaven is sent ! 
Long may thy hardy sons of rustic toil 

Be blest witli health, and peace, and sweet content I 
And, O ! may Heaven their simple lives prevent 

prom luxiuy's contagion, weak and vile ! 
That, howe'er crowns and coronets be rent_ 

A virtuous populace may rise the while. 
And stand, a wall of fire, around their much-lo^ cd isle. 

From Methven I went to Perth, where I iiad served my ap- 
prenticeship to business, and spent a number of my early years. 
The country is well cultivated, and abounds with fine scenerv- 
The eastern part of the river Almond abounds widi printfields and 
bleachtields, and a large canal is carried from it, about throe 
miles, to supply the town with water, on which there arc very im- 
portant works erected. 

Perth is situated on the river Tay, at the head of tide wa- 
ter, and is' one of the handsomest towns in Scotland. The scen- 
ery around it is very rich, and the public property, consisting of 
two fine fields, called the Nortli and South Inches, are not only 
ornamental, but highly useful to the town; affording fine walks, 
and bleaching and grazing grounds. To the cai>t is the hill of Kin- 



234 TRAVELS IN 

noul, about 800 feet high, and on the opposite side of the Tay, in 
the hill of MoncricfF, from whence there are some of the richest 
views in Scotland. There is an elegant stone bridge across the 
Tay at Perth, which adds much to the convenience and beauty 
of the town. 

Perth contains about 15,000 people, who are principally em- 
ployed in trades and raaimfactures, which are carried on with J 
great spirit ; particularly in linen and cotton. There are valuable j 
fishings upon the Tay, which keep a number of vessels employed 
in the London trade ; and ship-building is carried on to a con- J 
siderable extent. 

The system of education is upon an excellent footing, particu- ' 
larly the academy, at which is taught a college education in minia- , 
ture ; and it has furnished more good mathematical scholars, cal- 
culated for the ordinary occupations of life, than any other semi- 
nary that has ever come under my observation. 

Having spent a few days in this place, I set out by the coacli 
for Mcthven, and, bidding adieu to my relations, I continued my 
journey to Glasgow. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

Edinburgh, — Dundee, — Falkland. 

I MENTIONED in the last chapter, that I had made the best 
arrano-cment I could under existing circumstances; but to carry 
it into full effect, was attended with a good deal of difficulty; and 
I was obliged in consequence, to take a journey to the east coun- 
try. I accordingly left Glasgow on the 5th of July, and travel- 
led by the coach to Edinburgh. Next morning, I crossed the 
Forth at Lcith. The Forth is here seven miles broad, encreasing 
in breadth to the eastward, and contracting to the westward ; and 
there are several islands in it, but of no great extent. The whole 
presents a very picturesque view. The packets generally make a 
passao-e in from 40 minutes to an hour ; and they are under such 
fTood reoulations, and so cautiously conducted, that IVom time 
immemorial none of them have been lost. 

Kiughorn, on the north side of the Forth, is a small town, 
built on high ground, sloping towards the Forth, of which, and 



SCOTLAND. 



235 



of Edinburgh, and Leith, on the opposite side, it has a fine view. 
Four miles to the eastward is Kirkaldy, a long straggling town, 
built mostly on one street, close along the shore; and here there 
are considerable manufactures of hemp, flax, and cotton ; par- 
ticularly of checks and ticks. 

A mile beyond this, on the height, is Pathhead, where a great 
deal of weaving is done, principally for the Kirkaldy manufac- 
turers. A mile to the east is Dysart, a little town remarkable for 
its coal-works ; and the whole coast to the eastward is studded 
with towns, containing from 200 to 400 people. 

From Pathhead, I travelled 16 miles to Cupar, through a va- 
riegated country, abounding in hill and dale, woods and small 
rivulets. The soil is pretty good, and the system of agriculture 
is in a very advanced state. 

Cupar is the county town, and is a populous and thriving place, 
having considerable manufactures ; particularly of linen goods, 
such as Silesias and Osnaburgs. The country in its neighbour- 
hood is remarkably well cultivated, and the farmers have every 
appearance of wealth, and its usual concomitant — independence. 

From Cupar, I travelled 1 1 miles to Dundee, and, being on 
horseback, I took the nearest road, which led me over a hilly 
track of country ; but the soil was fertile, and it was evei-j' where 
covered with fine fields of grain, particularly wheat. 

While I was enjoying this scenery, and contemplating the 
bounty of Providence, I was joined by a very communicative, gar- 
rulous friend, who told me he was a plasterer in Dundee. He 
began a long talk about America, part of which I knew before, 
and part of which was never known by mortal man. But it was 
all gospel in my friend's eyes. He had it from the best authority : 
he could not be mistaken. — Among other tales, he mentioned 
that a gentleman, of the name of Millar, had left a good trade in 
Dundee to go to America, and had settled in the back woods a- 
raong the savages ; and yet he had come back to try to get his wife 
to o-o out also; alleging that it was a better country than this! 
" But," added he, " I'm very well pleased where I am, and in- 
tend to remain in Dundee." 

On drawing towards the place of destination, the road descends 
by a winding course of considerable extent, from whence there is 
a beautiful view of the Firdi of Tay, which we crossed by a ferry 



236 TRAVELS IN 

nearly three miles broad, and immediately entered the town of 
Dundee, where I stopped for the night. 

Dundee is a large town, containing upwards of 26,000 inhabi- 
tants, who have extensive and well-organized manufactures of 
hemp, flax, and cotton ; particularly cotton-bagging, sail-cloth, 
Osnaburgs, and coloured threads. It is one of the principal ship- 
ping ports in the east of Scotland, and carries on a considerable 
trade to the Baltic, from which the principal raw materials for 
the manufactures are drawn. 

I soon finished my business here, and returned to Cupar. From 
thence I travelled to Auchtermouchty, about nine miles to the 
westward, through a tolerably fertile country. Here also there are 
considerable linen manufactures. My business was soon finished 
at this place, and I immediately set out for Edinburgh. The 
only place of note that I passed was Falkland, once the residence 
of the kings of Scotland. The remains of the palace are still 
to be seen, but it is a miserable pile of building, having a room 
or two occupied as a carpenter's shop ; notwithstanding, it has a 
hereditary keeper, with a considerable salary ! 

One of the beautiful Lomond hills rises immediately to the 
south of Falkland, and reaches an elevation of about 1200 feet. 
Seven or eight miles to the westward is the other, and there is 
a continued ridge between them, which affords pasture for a great 
many sheep. 

The whole of the county of Fife abounds with coal, iron, and 
other minerals. 

1 reached Edinburgh in the evening, and next day returned to 
Glasgow. 



CHAPTER L. 

Glasgow, — Edinburgh, — Mr. Fox's birth-dai/. 

jL he orders in council still continued their baleful operation, and 
and 1 was kept in a state of inactivity most uncongenial to my es- 
tablished habits ; but there was no lielp : " the king willed it," and 
1 was obliged to submit. 

Under this disagreeable feeling, I was glad to avail myself of any 
active and rational amusement ; and two much-valued friends, one 



SCOTLAND. ^37 

©f tliem a merchant of Liverpool, having invited me to take a jaunt 
to Edinburgh, I accepted it with pleasure ; the more so as I heard 
that the birth-day of INIr. Fox was to be celebrated in a few days. 

We left Glasgow on the 20th of January, 1 809. Mr. Fox's birth- 
day was celebrated by the whig party in Edinburgh, on the 21-111. 
Being acquainted with several members of that illustrious body, I 
applied for tickets for my Liverpool friend and myself; and we join- 
ed the party accordingly. A friend, who had assisted in arranging 
the music, and whose place was to be opposite the bcind, that he 
might give the necessary instructions, obligingly accommodated us 
with seats beside himself; so that we were placed in a favourable 
situation for observation. 

The company, nearly 200 in number, assembled at 6 o'clock. 
Mr. Maul, of Panmure, took the chair; Sir Harry Moncrieft'was 
chaplain. The company generally, in point of respectability of cha- 
racter, liberality of sentiment, and brilliancy of intellect, ranked 
high among the living characters of the present day. What a bless- 
ing it would be for mankind, thought I, if the councils of states 
could be animated by the spirit, and actuated by the conduct of 
such men ! But Providence has, (no doubt for wise reasons, though 
inscrutable to us) ordered it otherwise ; and we must submit, and 
hope for better days. 

The first toast, " The glorious and immortal memory of Charley 
James Fox," was drank in silence, and standing. This was follow- 
ed by a dirge from the band of vocal music; after which we had the 
song of " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled," followed by the air to 
ivhich Burns originally composed it, by the inimitable band of Na- 
thaniel Gow ; and so mournfully pathetic did they play it, that it 
brought a plentiful shower of tears from the eyes of many of the 
company. 

Every toast was followed by music, and never did I hear music 
more elegant or better arranged. Nathaniel Gow, a son of the ce- 
lebrated Niel Gow, led the band, and, to use the language of my 
Liverpool friend, he "handled his elbow in great style;" and was 
well supported by the other performers. 

The notice of a few of the leading sentiments, with the music that 
followed, will serve to illustrate the spirit of the company. 

Toast — The whig party of Scotland. 

Mtisic — Whiors of Fife. 

o 

Toast — Whigs of England, 



238 , TRAVELS IN 

Music — O the roast beef of Old England \ 

Toast — Whigs of Ireland. 

Music — Erin go bragh. 

Toast — A speedy adjustment of our differences .with America, 
and justice to foreign poweri*. 

Music — Yankee Doodle. 

The whole conduct of the enlightened gentlemen composing this 
meeting showed that they were actuated by the truly enlightened prin- 
ciples of the revered character whose birth they met to celebrate ; 
and the last sentiment, and music that accompanied it, is a convinc- 
ing proof that they entertained liberal sentiments regarding Ame- 
rica. Had the councils of Mr. Fox prevailed in the British cabi- 
net, two nations " formed to be mutually beneficial to each other,'* 
instead of being plunged into a calamitous war, might have reaped 
the mutual advantages of cultivating the arts of peace ! 

Before leaving Edinburgh, we heard the melancholy account of 
the battle of Corunna, and the sacrifice of one of the most gallant of 
Britannia's sons, Sir John Moore. And for what? — To support the 
independence of Spain and Portugal ! say the British ministry and 
their adherents. Of the correctness of the sentiment let posterity judge. 

The weather was dreadfully cold during our stay at Edinburgh, 
the thermometer being one day as low as 2°. On our way to Glas- 
gow, the snow was so deep, that during a considerable part of the 
journey we had six horses in the carriage. 



CHAPTER LI. 

Journey to Ireland^ — Port PatricJc, — Belfast^ — Dundrum Bay, — 

~Neii:i')y. 

A. PERIOD was at last put to my state of inactivity. On the 
17th of July, as I walked along the street, the carrier put a packet 
oi letters into my hands, which bore the post-mark of Castlewellan, 
in Ireland. On opening it, I found it contained an invoice and bill 
of lading of a cargo of cotton, shipped by the Lucy from Savannah; 
but the vessel was bound to Liverpool, and there was nothing to ex- 
plain why my letters should have been put ashore at Castlewel- 
lan. I dreaded a shipwreck, and made immediate preparations to 
go to Ireland. 

I left Glasgow by the mail stage on the 19tb, and traveling 



SCOTLAND. ^39 

through a tolerably fertile country about 7 miles, passed through a 
chain of barren hills, of no great height, about 7 miles more. Eight 
miles beyond this is Kilmarnock, and towards it the country is a 
little improved. 

Kilmarnock is a straggling village, but celebrated for its manu- 
factures of carpets, and as being the scene of several subjects in the 
works of the Ayrshire poet, who, in one of his poems, honours it 
with the following notice : 

Kilmarnock wabsters, fidge an' claw, 

An' pour your creeshie nations; 
An' ye >vha leather rax an' draw, 

Of a' denominations ; 
Swith to the laigb kirk ane an' a', 

An' there tak up your stations, 
Then aff to Bigbic's in a raw, 

And pour divine libations 

For joy this day. 

We stopped at the said Bigbie's, and, for the humour of tlie 
thing, I called for a libation of porter ; but there was wo jay in 
the drinking of it — it was sour, stale, and spiritless. 

From Kilmarnock to Ayr is 12 miles : the road is very good, but 
the country is poor, although it certainly bears an excellent crop of 
*' bonny lasses:" the women of Ayrshire are beautiful. 

On entering the town of Ayr, every thing that I saw reminded 
me of my favourite bard. The " Dungeon Clock" and " Wal- * 
lace Tower," the " twa steeples," could b^ seen at a distance, and 
I passed by the " New Brig," where a little way up the stream I 
saw the " Auld Brig;" and the whole scenery brought the extraor- 
dinary dialogue between the " Brigs of Ayr" fresh to my recollec- 
tion. 

Ayr has no manufactures for America, and I had not a moment 
to view the town ; so, procuring a chaise, I posted all night to- 
wards Port Patrick. The night was dark, damp, and dismal ; but 
my haste would brook no delay. I hurried on : at midnight I was 
at Girvan, at daylight at Ballantrae, and, at 8 o'cloclt, I break- 
fasted on the east side of Loch Ryan. From thcuce the road parses* 
through a poor moory country to Port Patrick, which 1 reached at 
one o'clock. 

Here I was informed that the packet had not sailed for five daji, 
such had been the violence of the weather ; and that a number of 
passengex's w^ere in waiting, one of them a gentleman of my ac- 



2iO TRAVELS IN 

qiuiintance from Glasgow, bound to Ireland on an errand of the 
same nature as my own. It was Sunday, and the gentlemen were 
at church; but I was told they would soon return, when they 
would take dinner, and the packet would sail immediately after. 
I was rejoiced at this intelligence, and ran up stairs to shave and 
clean myself; but the despatch was greater than I had been led to 
imagine, for I had only got my beard half off when I was informed 
that I must immediately go on board the packet, or lose my pas- 
sage; I therefore buckled up my tnimpej-y, and, in the style that 
the Israelite messengers were once presented to their king, half 
shaved and half not, I presented myself on board the packet-boat, 
and she immediately got under way. 

Port Patrick is one of the most singular ports I ever saw. 
The town consists of a few houses only, and the harbour is a small 
inlet amonnj a large mass of ruffged rocks. The whole coast is lof- 
ty, and lined with rocks; and this harbour, small as it is, is the only 
place where a boat could land for many miles ; on which account it 
is one of the great thoroughfares to Ireland, where the mail pack- 
ets daily cross. The mode by which they warp the boats out and in, 
is very ingenious and singular. 

Tlie wind was almost right ahead, and the swell considerable, 
but we got warped out, and put to sea. For the first few hours 
the weather was pretty moderate, and we got about half-way across, 
when the wind increased to a very severe gale, which continued all 
night and great part of next day. The passengers in the cabin 
were mostly all sick, and in all my passages across the Atlantic I 
never suffered so much. But in the steerage it was more serious. 
The captain was obliged to shut the hatches ; and the vessel 
being crowded with passengers, some of them were almost stifled 
to dcfith. In this way v>'e were beat about in the channel for 24 
hours, often within a few miles of the Irish coast, though we 
could not rcacli it ; and finally we were obliged to put back to 
Port Patrick. 

Two days thereafter we had a fair wind, which wafted us over 
27 miles, in a few hours; and we set foot on Paddy's dominions 
just as it began to get dark. 

The degree of prejudice that is artfully kept alive in Britain 
against Ireland, would hardly be believed by those who are not ac- 
quainted with it ; and such was the effect it had produced on me, 
that though I did not believe the twentieth part of the stories that 



IRELAND. 241 

wferetold of the " wild Irish," j^et, on landing at Donaghadee, I 
had considerable apprehensions as to my personal safety ; and 
nothing could have induced me to travel alone at that hour of the 
night in a post-chaise. I therefore availed myself of the company 
of my Ghisgow friend, whose business was equally urgent with my 
own : we posted all night by Belfast and Hillsborough ; and at day- 
light arrived at Banbridge. Here we parted, he to go to Wex- 
ford ; I took a post-chaise, and drove on with all the despatch that 
a pair of very sorry horses would carry me, to Dundrum bay. 

On my way thither I learned the unfortunate fate of the vessel ; 
and on reaching the spot, I found her lying a total wreck on the 
shore, and the inhabitants collected to a pubUc sale of her ma- 
terials. 

The supercargo assured me that all the cargo was safe : it was all 
landed to be sure, but on examination I found it so completely 
drenched with sea-water, that it was very questionable whether it 
would bring one-third of its value; and the expenses I found 
would be excessive. My first impression was, that we should sell off 
the whole on the spot, and the agent and I had an advertisement 
drawn up to that effect ; but this not meeting the approbation of 
my friends in Britain, nor the owners of the other parts of the car- 
go, I riluctantly yielded up my opinion to theirs, and agreed to 
ship it to Liverpool : in consequence of this determination, I was 
detained eight weeks in Ireland. 

As our agent lived at Newr}^, I had frequent occasion to go 
there, and 1 found him a most hospitable man, frank, friendly, 
and obliging. The morning after my arrival he carried me to the 
coffee-house, where there was an animated debate concerning a 
newspaper; and which subject, though apparently trifling, actu- 
ally involved the catholic question. One of the subscribers, a very 
respectable merchant in the place, was charged with a breach of 
the rules, by abstracting the public papers for his own private use. 
The charge was founded on the trivial circumstance, that the 
gentleman being confined to his bed by indisposition, his clerk 
wished to communicate a piece of very interesting intelligence, and 
carried away, with leave of the bar -keeper, one of the papers 
which contained it, after the room was shut at night, which he re- 
turned before it wasopened in the morning. A common observer 
would have thought that there was really no harm in this : it was 

31 



242 TRAVELS IN j 

calculated to injure rrobody; and if there was any blame at all, it j 
rested with the clerk, not the employer. But so did not one of ] 
the subscribers think. He made it the ground of a most serious t 
charge, in which he overlooked the clerk altogether, and fixed on , 
the employer only. The matter was explained, and, as might I 
have been expected, the charge was scouted by the good sense of i 
the people. " Why was it made?" might be asked, with suv- "j 

, prise, by those who do not know the management of regular gO' 
vcrnmcnts. The gentleman who made it was an officer under go- 
vernment, and a heresy hunter ; his antagonist had the audacity to 
be a Homan catholic. 

Newry is situated on a river called Newry Water, at the head of 
Carlingford Bay, and enjoys a very con.siderable commerce, espe- 
cially in tJie Liverpool trade. The bay is navigable for large ves- 
sels to within a few miles of the town, and the navigation is thence 
continued for smaller vessels into the town by a canal, which runs 
to Lough Neagh. The greater part of the town is low, and not 
very clean ; but part of it is on high ground, on which the church 
stands, with a low squat steeple. The country round is hilly, ex- 
cept to the north-west, where it spreads out into fine fertile plains. 
The peculiar configui'ation of the town, and state of society in it, 

occasioned the following lines from the satirical pen of Dean Swift : 

High church, low steeple, 

Dirty streets, and proud pe«^)le. i 

Whether the people in general deserve the character, I cannot say ; 
but those among whom I associated certainly did not. I found 
them frank, aifable, polite, and friendly. 

My business in Ireland proved much more troublesome than was 
originally anticipated, and I was induced to go to Belfast to make 
some enquiry concerning it. From Newry to Banbridge is 10 
miles, through a tolerably good soil, improving towards the latter 
place, which is a small town, surrounded by fine bleachfields, and 
has a good linen market. Five miles beyond Banbridge we passed 
Dromore, the seat of one of the Irish bishops; and four miles 
from thence we reached Hillsborough, finely situated, in a rich 
and flourishing country, and cuntaining about 100 houses. The 
church is an elegant building, with a very lofty spire; and the 
windows are stained, in imitation of some of the English cathe- 
drals. This is the scat of the Down5^hire family, one of the most 
wealthy in Ireland. 



IRELAND. 



243 



-Three miles beyond this is Lisburn, a thriving little town, in 
which cotton manufactories have been established to a very consi- 
derable extent ; and seven miles from thence, through a very ele- 
gant country, and highly cultivated, is the town of Belfast. 

Belfast is situated at the head of Belfast Lough, and is a hand- 
some place, having extensive cotton and linen manufactories, and 
a very considerable shipping trade. I was detained here part of 
two days, and found the inhabitants very civil and obliging. Those, 
in particular, with whom I had business, were uncommonly atten- 
tive ; and one gentleman, who was a good deal conversant with 
the mode of managing shipwrecks and damaged cotton, agreed to 
pay me a visit at Dundrum Bay, and give me his best advice. 
This matter being settled, I returned to Newry. 

We changed horses at Banbridgo, the place where I parted with 
my friend on my way to Dundrum Bay- The hostler, a humor- 
ous-looking fellow, recognized me. " Was not you tlie gentleman," 
said he, " that I got the chaise for the t'other morning, and that 
gave me a five-penny in place of a ten-penny, because he had 
no more change ?" " May be so,'' said I, taking my seat in the 
carriage. " And shall 1 really shut the door ?" says, he looking 
very humorously in my face. " Certainly," said I, pretending ig- 
norance of his meaning : " we can't travel with the carriage door 
open." " Well now," said he, still holding the door, " who would 
have expected it from that good, generous-looking face ?" " By 
my shoul" said I, Paddy, (giving him a ten-penny,) " if you Irish- 
men don't make money, it will not be for want of brass." " Och ? 
dear, sure our tongues were never meant for the pocket," said Pad- 
dy, shutting the door with a humorous smile, and we drove on. 

From Newry I returned, accompanied by my friend, to Dundrum 
Bay, where 1 had immense trouble with the cargo ; but this sub- 
ject, though of great importance to me, being of no consequence 
to the reader, I shall pass it over, and notice a few of those oc- 
currences which are more generally interesting. 

Dundrum Bay, where tlic vessel was stranded, is a lai-ge bend 
in the Irish Sea, extending across from Annalong on the south- 
west to Point St. John on the south-east, about 12 miles; and it 
extends into the country about five miles. To the wcbt are the lofty 
Mourne mountains, one of them (Slieve Donard,) the highest in 
Ireland. To the north-east of the mountains, the country spreads 
out into pretty fertile fields. , 



V 



244 TRAVELS IN 

At the foot of the mountains stands Newcastle, a small village, 
and from thence eastward the sea shore is a sandy beach, two 
miles to Dundrum, where there is an inlet. This inlet spreads to 
the east and west a considerable distance ; the western part is a 
narrow peninsula, abounding with rabbits, and has been convert- 
ed in*', a rabbit warren. The Lucy was driven ashore on the 
eastern part of this peninsula ; and the cargo was landed on the 
premises of the proprietors of the rabbit warren, a very respecta- 
ble and hospitable family, where I found the captain and super- 
cargo ; and with whom I also lodged during my stay there. 

The landlord was near 70 years of age, very stout made, re- 
markably humoursome, and a great lover of the game of whist. 
The landlady was nearly as fond of whist as her husband ; and 
when they joined their forces, they were an overmatch for almost 
all who ventured to play against them. 

They had a large family, all grown up, of whom four son*, 
and three daughters were at home ; they all played whist : they 
were also visited by some of the most respectable people in the 
neighboui'hood, and often, in the evenings, they had very en- 
tertaining whist parties. 

It was early in the morning, after one of these parties, that th» 
Lucy met with her hard fate. She was bound to Liverpool, and, 
being past Skerries-light, was within a few hours' sail of pilot 
ground, when the gale commenced ; and, after weathering it for 
three days, she was at last driven ashore here. 

The old man, who was weather-wise, anticipated the event. 
He rose from the card-table, and looked out ; and, on resuming 
his seat, observed, " It cheats me, if there be not a rat caught in 
the trap before morning :" and so there was. On going to the 
beach in the morning, there, high and dry, the Lucy lay ; and 
another vessel, about a mile to the westward. ^ 

The captain and supercargo, who were almost dead with fa- 
tigue, were taken to the house, and hospitably entertained ; and 
measvires were taken to secure the wreck. In the evejning there 
was a whist party, and the old man, seeing the captain look very 
pitiful and dejected, advised him to take a hand at whist, to cheer 
his spirits. The captain was persuaded ; but sometiiing else than 
whist was uppermost in his mind, and he ctjuld hardly keep him- 
self awake while he played two or three g4mes very badly. He 
relinquished the game, and went to bed, in the same room where 



3 



IRELAND. 245 

H.the landlord slept. The landlord did not go to bed for some hours 
after, when, awakening the captain with some difficulty, the lat- 
ter started up with a halloa, calling out, " What's the matter ?" 
*' O faith, the luatter's not great, dear," said the landlord. " I 
only wanted to tell you that you're a d — d bad hand at whist, and 
by J — s, you shall never be a partner of mine again, for I lost 

^, two ten-pennies by you." 

He was a very early riser, • and generally came to my room in 
the morninor to wake me ; when he would entertain me with a 
thousand witty sayings. Sometimes he would descant on the 
beauties of the creation, the brightness of the sun, the healthy 
sea-breeze, the rising plants, and the singing of the birds. At 
other times he would remark, that the air was " as thick as but- 
ter-milk," or that he could cut it with a knife ; on which occa- 
sions he would say, " You had better lie still, and take another 
sleep, dear." 

s. We were introduced to a number of the families round ; among 
others, to the doctor of the place, who was a man of talents, and 
esteemed one of the greatest wits in all the country. At a visit- 
ing party, our supercargo and the doctor entered into a punnmg 
conversation ; but the supercargo was no match for the doctor at 
this kind of discourse. He had been amusing the company with 
a number of tales concerning the wonderful size of some of the 
animals in America ; amongst others the well-known story of the 
amazing large musquetoes that bit general Washington through 
the boots.* As an offset, the doctor told an equal number of tales 
about the wonderful animals in Ireland, meeting the supercargo 
in every point, except the musquetoes. " Well," said the super- 
cargo, triumphantly, " you must acknowledge that our fiies are 
larger than yours." " Yes, faith,'' cried the doctor, " I'll acknow- 
ledge it with all my heart, if you'll only take away the f from 
them." 

Several linen merchants were in the neighbourhood, who gave 
me a history of the linen trade of Ireland, and stated that the 
stoppage of the American trade was ruining their business. One 
of them had recently returned from Rio Janeiro, where he had 
been with a cargo of linens, to the value ofnefirly 60,000 sterling, 
tempted by tlie flattering accounts held out by the supporters of 

' • See Weld's Trarcb. 



246 TRAVELS IN 

the ministry. He returned with a most deplorable tale. He way 
not able to sell above one third, at a loss of 30 per cent., and he 
could only got a precarious produce for return, by which he an- 
ticipated a loss of from 10 to 20 per cent. more. Tlie remainder 
of the goods he was obliged to consign into other hands, and leave 
the place. His loss altogether, he supposed, would be fully one 
half; and he said that almost every other sort of goods were sub- 
ject to a similar depreciation. Goods were pouring in from all 
quarters, — London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Manchester, Birming- 
ham, Sheffield, &c. ; and so badly informed were the people in 
some places, that many articles sent were altogether unsuitable for 
the market : iron grates, fenders, fire-irons, warming-pans, and 
skates, were exported to the Brazils. But the prince regent was 
our august ally, and therefore that country must be a fine market 
for all sorts of manufactures. " Only look at the map," the min- 
isterialists would exultingly exclaim ; " only look at the map, and 
see the amazing extent of the country : how rich ! how finely 
watered ! And then the gold mines that it abounds with ; and the 
noble Portuguese who inhabit it, our friends, and our beloved 
allies. Here's a field for our surplus manufactures to the latest 
posterity ; let us avail ourselves of it, and kick that blackguard 
Yankee trade to the devil !" « Amen," said John Bull ; and, 
overlooking the trifling circumstance, that it was inhabited by only 
half a million of people, and these the most poor, pitiful, bigot- 
ted, priest-ridden devils under the sun, he did avail himself of it, 
and can now calculate the value of the avail ! 

My friend came from Belfast, according to promise, and 
brought two or three cotton spinners along with him. They 
looked at the cotton, and, giving their best advice, invited me 
to convoy them as far as Ballynahinch. Llere we were met by 
our agent from Newry, and spent a very happy evening together. 
I got an account of the battle of Ballynahinch, and of the present 
state of Ireland, and next morning set out to Dundrum, distant 
nine miles. 

There was neither horse nor chaise to be hired here ; so I was 
obliged to walk. Learning that there were some medicinal springs 
by the way, I went about two miles out of the direct road to visit 
them. Before I had got tiiat length, a very severe rain came on, and 
I was glad to take shelter in a little wretched cabin beside the springs. 
The old woman was kind to an excess, brought me a dram of whis- 



) IRELAND. 247 

key, and regretted tliat the accomodation was so poor. After I 
had warmed and dried myself a little, she looked out, and pro- 
nounced that it would rain all day. She then asked, whether I 
had ever heard of Mr. Fox, and, upon being answered in the af- 
firmative, she put a few more questions, to learn whether I ap- 
proved of Mr. Fox's sentiments. I could not divine the meaning 
of this, and was pondering the subject in my mind, when a young 
boy in livery called at the house, and told me the counsellor sent 
his compliments, and requested I would call npon him, as he 
,Vished to see me. I was surprised, and was going to ask the old 
woman who the counsellor was; but she sealed my lips by telling 
■ me, just to step up to the counsellor's, and it would be all ex- 
1 plained to me. I obeyed, and followed the messenger. " And 
who is the counsellor, my young fellow?" said I, as we walked 
towards the house. " He is counsellor Trotter, sir," said the boy. 
** What," said I, " the same that was private secretary to Mr. 
Fox ?" " Yes," said the boy. This accounted for the conduct 
df the old woman ; and I shall ever remember her with gratitude, 
fot being: the means of introducing me to the bosom friend and 



biographer of Charles James Fox. 

Tlie counsellor and I soon got intimately acquainted. I answer- 
ed all his questions concerning America, and he gave me a great 
deal of information regarding Mr. Fox's private life, mcluding an 
account of his journey to France, in which Mr. Trotter accom- 
panied him, and of his death, at which he was present I was 
delighted with his conversation, and the day, as if determined to 
prolong it, continuing very stormy, I availed myself of his hospi- 
table offer, and staid all night. Next morning early, I set out for 
Dundrum. 

During my stay at this place, I received letters announcing the 
arrival of one my partners from Savannah, and stating that I 
must hold myself in readiness to return to America. I was sick 
of my present situation, and longed to be home; so, inviting my 
partner to come and take charge of the cargo, 1 continued ship- 
ping it to Liverpool with all possible despatch. My partner arriv- 
ed just as we were shipping the last of the cargo ; and I consigned 
the remaining business to his charge, and made the best of my 
way to Glasgow. He attended the cargo to Liverpool, where it 
found a market at a little more than what was suflicient to pay 
the expenses. Had it arrived safe, it would have yielded a cler.r 



i 

248 TRAVELS IN 

profit of ^.7000. Such are some of the turns of fate ! There wa« 
not one penny of insurance upon it, nor the power of making it. 
The first account that 1 received of it was by the before-mention- 
ed letters from Castlewellan. 



CHAPTER LII. 



Iteturn to Glasgow. 



April 20th. Having completed the shipment, I parted frcMa 
my hospitable entertainers with sentiments of friendly regard, and 
set out on my return to Glasgow, taking Strangford in my way, 
in order to clear out the vessels at the custom-house ; and I was 
accompanied by my agreeable friend, the agent at Newry. We 
passed through Downpatrick, the capital of Downshire, a pretty 
large town, but not handsome ; though it is situated on a fertile 
country, and carries on a considerable trade. 

On our arrival at Strangford, the deputy collector executed ©ur 
business with great despatch, and very much like a gentleman, 
which is a compliment that I cannot pay to all his majesty'! ser- 
vants in Ireland, with whom I had to deal. If I were inclined 
to be ill-natured here, I could give a great big thrashing to a cer- 
tain irentleman, that lives not a hundred miles from the foot of 
Mourne Mountains, who thinks " he has a right to make the most 
of his situation on the coast;" and seems to be of opinion, that 
he is justifiable in adopting any means in the exercise of that 
right ; but I am now in a hurry to be at Glasgow, and shall pass 
over his conduct. i 

We crossed over to Portaferry, betwixt which and Strangford 
the tide runs with a velocity that I have never yet seen equalled. 
We dined at Portaferry, after which the agent and I parted with 
many professions of sincere regard. 

From Portaferry to Donaghadee is about 16 miles, partly along 
the coast. The country is pretty, but the soil in many j^laccs is 
poor. This district was mostly peopled from Scotland, and I 
could observe a remarkable coincidence in dialect between the 
people on both sides of the channel. I reached Donaghadee at 
10 o'clock in the morning; and a number of vessels loaded with 
bullocks, being about to sail for Port Patrick, I engaged a pas- 
(wige in one of them, to sail at 2 o'clock. 



IRELAND. 



249 



In the mean time, I could not help contrasting the sensations I 
now had regarding Ireland with those I entertained of the country 
before I saw it. I noticed, on landing at Donaghadee, that " I had 
considerable apprehensions for my personal safety, and nothing 
could have induced me to travel alone at night in a post chaise." 
Now, however, I was satisfied that I could not only travel alone in 
a post-chaise, but that I could travel in any way, and at all hours, 
v/it^ as much safety as I could in any part of Britain. I was, in 
fact, highly pleased both with the country and the inhabitants. — 
The vessel set sail in the afternoon, and arrived at Port Patrick a- 
bout sundown. The evening was very clear, and I could see the 
Mourne Mountains at the distance of 50 miles. 

At Port Patrick I met with an Irish gentleman who was tra- 
velling to Glasgow, and being pleased with his appearance, I was 
very glad to have him for a travelling companion. We started by 
the stage at 6 o'clock in the morning, and travelled along the coast, 
which we found pretty rugged, hilly and barren ; but abounding in 
fine views which were seen to great advantage, the day being re- 
markably clear. At one place, on the top of a hill, we could see 
the whole north channel; the coasts of Ireland and Scotland ; the 
islands of Arran, Bute, and Ailsa; and I could also distinctly per- 
ceive the Mourne Mountains, although we were now upwards of 80 
miles distant. 

In the course of our journey I discovered that my travelling com- 
panion had a fine taste for music ; and being provided with an ex- 
cellent flute, in his travelling cane, he entertained me with a great- 
er number of Irish tunes than I had ever heard before. 

When we drew near Ayr we left the coach and crossed over the 
country about half a mile to the old I'oad, to see the birth-place of 
the immortal Burns. It is a lowly one-story house, the one end 
slated, the other thatched. Being ushered into the slated end, which 
had a deal floor, we called for a " whisky gill," with which we 
made a libation to the memory of the departed bard ; and having 
repeated " Tam o' Shanter," the scene of which, " Alloway Kirk," 
is hard by, we set out for Ayr. At the end of the town we passed 
a most princely house, which might have been with much propriety 
dedicated to Folly. It was the fruits of a rapid fortune made by 
smuggling, which, like many such, had taken to itself the wings of 
the morning and departed; but the house remained an emblem of 
the cupidity and imprudence of its former owner. 

32 



250 TRAVELS IN 

The stage proceeded no furtlrer than Ayr; but being anxious to 
reach Glasgow, my fellow-traveller agreed to accompany me in a 
post chais(^, which having procured, we arrived at 2 o'clock next 
morning. 

CHAPTER LIII. 

Glasgoxv, — Edmhui'ghi — Liverpool, — Manckesfe); — Leeds, — NoHlti 
tingham, — London. 

^OON after my return from Ireland, I was highly gratified with 
the account of Mr. Erskine's arrangement with the United States, 
and the removal of the non- intercourse ; which was followed by a 
removal of the orders in council in Britain : but the hope induced 
by these circumstances was of short duration. Two days had not 
elapsed before meetings of the shipping interest were held, and the 
ministry were assailed with most deplorable tales concerning the 
loss of their trade. One set of them had the audacity, indeed, to 
set up the pica that if the Americans were allowed a free trade, it 
would deprive the British shipping interest of the carrying trade to 
Holland. To Holland ! Yes, to Holland ! — a country with which 
the nation was at war ; and to trade with which was declared to be 
high treason by the laws of the land ! 

A cabinet council was held, at which it is said Mr. Canning, the 
secretary for foreign affairs, took a most active part, and strenuous- 
ly supported the principle that Mr. Erskine's arrangement should 
be ratified ; but a certain elevated personage took umbrage at some 
expressions in the papers, and would not agree ! and the orders in 
council were re-enacted in a new form, called a blockade. Thus were 
the valuable manufactures of the country sacrificed to the whim of 
an individual, and the mercantile cupidity of a shipping interest. 

The public will be able to form a pretty correct judgment as t« 
what degree of knowledge in political economy was possessed by 
the men to whom was confided the management of the affairs of a 
great commercial nation, by adverting to the following facts: 
it was estimated by Mr. Pitt that the profits of the 

nation arising from manufactures amounted to £. 1 4', 100,000 
From the merchant shipping and small craft £, 1,000,000 

The hands employed in manufactures were esti- 
mated ut 1,680,000 



ENGLAND. 



251 



Seamen in the merchant service at 155,000 

The income arising from manufactures destined for 

the united States £. 7,000,000 

The hands employed in manufactures for the U- 

riited States 675,000 

And 1 presume that the hands employed in the 

whole trade with the enemies of the country do 
"not exceed 20,000 

And yet a fair, honourable, and safe trade, to a great extent, with 
a friendly neutral, has been sacrificed to a poor, pitiful, limited, dis- 
honourable, and precarious commerce, subject to the regulation of 
the arch-enemy of the country. Gould that enemy have managed 
the matter with more advantage to his views ? 

I now calculated that the American trade was at an end, and im- 
mediately decided to set out for that counti'y to inquire into the state 
of our property there, and make the best arrangement regarding 
it that circumstances might point out. Before taking my passage 
for America, it was necessary to make a very extended tour in Bri- 
tain ; and though it was so rapid as to be almost bai'ren of incident 
or observation, yet I shall state the outlines, so as to continue the 
chain of connexion with the other parts of these travels. 

I set out from Glasgow on the 1st of August, 1809, and travelled 
by the coach to Edinburgh. From thence I crossed the Forth to 
Kirkaldy, Cupar, and Dundee, and returned to Edinburgli. 

On the €th, I left Edinburgh in the mail coach for Carlisle. We 
passed through Dalkeith, Selkirk and Langholm. A great part 
of the journey was in the night, and the weather was very rainy. 
The soil appeared pretty good to Dalkeith, which is a handsome 
little town, nine miles from Edinburgh, with the seat of the duke 
of Buccleugh in the neighbourhood. The soil continues good a 
considerable way beyond Dalkeith, after which the country is poor 
and hilly ; but it answers well for pasture, and the people keep large 
flocks of sheep. 

I reached Carlisle at 6 o'clock, and continued my journey to Li- 
verpool, where I arrived at 3 o'clock next morning. 

In the afternoon I left Liverpool for Manchester, and continued 
my journey to Halifax and Leeds, and thence through a fertile 
country eight miles, to Wakefield, a neat town, having extensivs 
manufactures of woollens, particularly stuffs. 

From Wakefield to Sheffield is 24 miles, through a rich, weli 



25!^ TRAVELS IN 

cultivated country ; and at Sheffield are the greatest manufactories 
of edge-tools in England. The master -cutlers are here 600 in num- 
ber, and the quantity and variety of work that is produced is im- 
mense. America is a great and important market for Sheffield goods. 
On the morning of the 15th of August, at one o'clock, I left Shef- 
field for Nottingham, distant 38 miles. Of the country I could see 
nothing till 1 was near Nottingham, and there it is fertile and well 
improved. 

Nottingham is situated on the steep ascent of a rock, overlook- 
ing the river Trent, and a vast range of adjoining meadows. It is 
a large, populous, and pretty handsome town, having the streets well 
paved, and a good market-place : it is a pi'incipal seat of the manu- 
facture of cotton and silk hosiery, and lace; and sends annually a 
vast quantity of goods to America. There is a castle situated on a 
high part of the eminence, which has a fine effect when viewed at a 
distance. 

Here I took a passage by the mail coach for London ; and setting 
out at nine o'clock in the morning, we passed through Norman, 
Melton, Mowbray, Oakham, Uppingham, Rockingham, Harbo- 
rough, Kettering, Wellingborough, Harold, Bedford, Shelford, 
Hitchin, Hatfield, Barnet, and Highgate, and reached London, 
distant from Nottingham 124 miles, at 5 o'clock next morning. 

My business in London was soon settled, and I devoted a day to 
see my friends ; but I was too much hurried to go to any of the 
public places with which the city abounds, except Vauxhall Gar- 
dens. This place is considered a great curiosity, and in all my for- 
mer visits to London I had never had an opportunity of seeing it. 
I had been out of town dining with a friend, and hurried to the Lon- 
dpn coffi3e-house to go to the gardens. Just as I arrived I found 
a Scotsman from Georgia at his glass of wine : he invited me to par- 
take of it ; but I declined it, telling him that I was in a hurry to go to 
Vauxhall ; he finished his wine, and agreed to accompany me. It 
was the duke of York's birth-night, he told me, and there would be 
some extra amusements. As we travelled towards the gardens I 
perceived that my friend had taken a glass too much, and it began 
to operate pretty vehemently to the prejudice of the English people. 
I did not regard this when by ourselves ; but I admonished him to 
be more circumspect in his conduct and expressions when ve should 
reach the garden, which he readily assented to. 

On our arrival, I was delighted with the vast variety and brilli- 



ENGLAND. 253 

ancy of the lamps, and the immense concourse of people. An or- 
chestra was in the middle, and we had some vocal and instrumental 
music; but as I never admired English music, I pass it over. In 
a short time my friend proposed an adjournment to a tent, where 
we might have something to drink : he called for a bowl of arrack 
punch, and seeing some company pass, he invited two of them to 
take seats beside us, and a share of our fare. While we were thus 
jsituated, the fire- works were announced, and wishing to see the 
whole economy of these gardens, I went to view them. They were 
splendid. On my return I found my friend had got a second bowl 
of arrack; and observing two or three men in the highland dress, 
he invited them to join us, and ordered a third bowl. While we 
were thus engaged, a band of music, over head, struck up Rothe- 
murche's Rant, and a ring being formed among the spectators, 
a Tiumber of gentlemen and ladies danced Scots reels. This o-ave 
my friend, who was a great Scotsman, fresh animation, and he be- 
gan to flourish away, and draw comparisons between Lis country- 
men and the English that I did not at all like, and proposed that 
we should immediately go homo. Having assented to this, I left 
him to adjust and settle the bill, while I went to see the water-works. 
On my return I found him embroiled with some of the natives, 
whom he was denouncing as a set of tailors ; and the bill was still 

unsettled. I instantly paid it, and looked round for my friend 

but he was gone. On making enquiry for him of the by-standers, 
I was told that he had been committed to the watch-house; and it 
was with great difficulty that I escaped being implicated as an ac- 
complice. Having, with considerable address, cleared myself from 
the imputation, I at last pi-evailed with some of his antao-onists to 
conduct me to the watch-house, where I found my friend cao-ed u]\ 
and declaiming against the English with most dreadful vociferation. 
After several hours trouble, in the dead of night, with watch- 
men, constables. Bow-street runners, &c. &c. I at last succeeded in 
getting him out oi durance vile, and we made the best of our way 
to the London coifee-house, which we reached at 3 o'clock in the 
morning ; and here 1 made a vow that I would never after accom- 
pany a Scotsman to Vauxhall gardens, unless I previously knew 
that he had so far divested himself of national prejudice as to paj 
an equal respect to Englishmen as to those of his own country. 



254 TRAVKLS IN 

CHAPTER LIV. 

Lotulon^ — Oxford^ — Birmingham, — Skrewsbwy, — Liverpool. 

J. LEFT London on the evening of the 18th of August, by the 
mail coach, and travelling all night, passed through Uxbridge, 
Stockton, and Oxford, where is the celebrated university ; but I 
could see nothing of it at the hour we passed. We continued our 
course through Woodstock, Shipton, and Stratford; and at 10 
o'clock on the 19th we arrived at Birmingham, distant from Lon- 
don 116 miles. 

Birmingham is situated in the middle of a fertile and populous 
country, and is, in point of population, tlie fourth town in England, 
its inhabitants amounting to 73,670. Part of the the town lies low, 
and the houses are mean and unsightly ; but a considerable por- 
tion is elevated, and abounds with handsome houses. The hard- 
ware manufactures of Birmingham are unrivalled, and vast quanti- 
tities of goods of all descriptions have been made up annually for 
the American market. The works of Bolton and Watt are at So- 
ho,, in this neighbourhood, and are in a state of organization pro- 
bably superior to any other in the world. It is calculated that since 
the introduction of their improved steam engine, the labour saved 
by it alone, in Britain, amounts to 20 millions sterlmg annually. 

The trade of Birmingliam is greatly facilitated by canal naviga- 
tion, which is here very complete ; affording a water communi- 
cation to London, Hull, Liverpool, and Bristol, and throughout 
the whole interior of the country. From Birmingham I travelled 
to Shrewsbury, in company with a Mr. James, a civil engineer 
who resides in Warwickshire ; and as the country through which 
we passed abounded with mines of coal, iron, and beds of lime- 
stone, I derived a good deal of information from him. He stated 
that the yearly income arisng from the mine-, in the counties of 
Warwick and Stafford, was incredible, and the number of hands 
employed in the bowels of the earth was immense. The business 
was remarkably well systematized, he observed, and was highly 
conducive to the progress of knowledge and liberality of sentiment. 
Even the minds of the common workmen were affected by a view 
of the grand operations of nature in the heart of the earth, and 
they had a degree of intelligence, and a spirit of indepcndenccj 



BNCLAND. ""^^ 



quite different from the workmen in the manufacturing towns. I 
found this gentleman's company very agreeable, in a journey to- 
gether of 46 miles, when we arrived at Shrewsbury. 

Shrewsbury is situated cm the river Sevei-n, and is a place of 
considerable trade, but the streets are narrow, and it exhibits no 
very handsome appearance. Being in one of the counties adjoin- 
in.r Wales, it is well calculated for the woollen trade, and a con- 
siderable portion of its manufactures are calculated for the Ameri- 
can market, particularly plains and flannels. 

On Monday, the 21st of August, 1 left Shrewsbury at five 
o'clock, by the stage, and passed through EUesniere, and Wrex- 
ham, to Chester, at which we dined. Here I had leisure to take 
a walk round the city, along the top of the wall with which it is 
surrounded, from whence there is a fine view. Some of the chief 
steets are singular in their construction, being cut out of a rock, 
below the level of the ground; and the houses have a portico lu 
front, which serves for a covered foot-path. The shops and waro 
houses are in the sides of the rock, and on a level with the streets, 
to which there is occasionally an ascent by stairs. Chester is the 
residence of a number of people from Wales, with which country 
it carries on a considerable trade. Its population amounts to about 

15,000. .,11 

From Chester I continued my journey 12 miles, through an a- 
greeable open country, and passing the Mersey, by a ferry-boat, 
1 arrived in Liverpool at six o'clock in the evening. 

From the 22d of August to the 3d of September, I was busily 
employed in Liverpool, making preperations fbr my embarkation 
to America. During this period I had a little time for reflection 
on the situation of England and America ; and every thing seemed 
to portend most important consequences. The British administra- 
tion appeared determined to adhere to the new system of blockade ; 
and they were backed by the whole power and influence of the 
1 tory party, including the shipping interest, the monied interest, 
and all the placemen and pensioners in the country. Their oppo- 
I nentsof the whig party, though firm to their principles, were fee- 
' ble and dispirited; and thus, secure in power and nifluence, and 
having a very slender opposition, it was not reasonable to be ex- 
pected that they would abandon a measure which ibrmed a most 
important part of their system of policy. On the other hand, 1 
was well convinced that the American government would set up, 



25 6 TRAVELS ON 

and persevere in, a resistance of some kind, while these orders con- 
tinued. From a view of the recent measures of that country, in- 
deed, it was impossible to form an opinion what this resistance 
would be ; but I was well aware, upon the whole, that the conse- 
quences resulting from the interruptions of commerce, would tend 
much to weaken the connection between the two countries, and that 
America would every day become more independent of Britain. 



CHAPTER LV. 

Liverpool^ — Banks of Neuofoundland, — Nets Yorh 

Having finished my business in Liverpool, I engaged a pas- 
sage for myself and son by the Pacific, captain Staunton, for 
New York. 

The other passengers were two merchants of New York ; two 
Yorkshire merchants; a Liverpool merchant, 'who called himself 
an American citizen : and a merchant of Savannah in Georgia 
We had also the captain and two mates of the ship Manhattan^ 
which had been sold in Liverpool. 

The passengers had agreed to rendezvous at the King's Arms 
tavern on the evening before the vessel sailed, at 10 o'clock, to go 
on board together, as she was to weigh anchor very early in the 
morning. I had to step out of town a little way to transact some 
business with a friend, and the night being dark and wet, it wac 
a little past the appointed hour before we got to the place of ren- 
dezvous. The company were gone, and we had to trudge through 
Liverpool in quest of a boat, but none was to be found. It was 
quite dark and rainy ; and wet, perplexed, and disappointed, we 
were landed in a small ale-house, on one of the wharfs, at 1 
o'clock in the morning. The landlord was a good-natured man, 
and used every effort to get us on board, but without effect : and I 
really began to be apprehensive that we would lose our passage. 
At length an Irish sailor came in from a neighbouring vessel to get a 
pint of ale, and the landlord whispered to me, that if I spoke him 
fair, perhaps he could get me on board. I thought the fairest way 
of speakig him would be to use his own style, and assumed tht 
character of a countryman in distress, which produced an imme- 
diate effect on Paddy's feeUngs, and he told me if Morgan would 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 257 

go, he woulcl. He called Morgan, who, with considerable reluc- 
tance, complied. The next difficulty was to find the vessel; for 
it was nearly as dark as pitch, and we had to go about three 
miles up the river. I did not wish to talk much, for fear that my 
speech " would bewray me," and, as good luck would have it, 
I did not need, for the very first ship we hailed was the Pacific. 
I paid the Irishmen for their trouble, and we went on board. As 
they were starting from the vessel, 1 heard one say, " Faith, Pat, 
I believe he is a Scotsman after all." " Well, well, it does not 
signify," says the other, " what he is ; he has done the fair thing 
by us, any how." 

" Tut," said I, "are we not all relations?" 

Sterne. 

On the morning of the 3d of September, the ship got under 
weigh, at 2 o'clock, and the wind being fair, we were round the 
rock by 5; and at 6, discharged the pilot. The breeze continue 
ed from the north-east, and we had a fine run. At 7 o'clock, 
we were up with the point of Ayr ; at 10, at Great Ormshead; at 
12 we passed Skerries-light, and shaped our course to the south-west, 
through St. George's channel. A vast number of ships came out 
of the river along with us, but we had lost sight of them all, ex- 
cept the John Bull, a fine English ship ; she kept in sight of us 
all the way out of the channel, although the Pacific considerably 
outsailed her. 

We passed Cape Clear on the 5th, after which we had a series of 
w'est and north-west winds, till the 15th, by which time we were 
nearly up with the Western Islands. The wind then shifted to the 
south-west, and continued till the 19th, when it again shifted to 
north-west, and it continued to chop round from south -west to 
north-west, almost incessantly ; but as the Pacific sailed remark- 
ably well by the wind, we made tolerable progress, and by the 
24th, we were nearly up with the Banks of Newfoundland. Here a 
phenomenon happened, which 1 had never before observed at sea. 
At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we had a fine steady breeze, to which 
we were carrying all sail, and the ship was running through the 
water at the rate of eight miles an hour ; when, all of a sudden, 
she ran out of the breeze, and was becalmed in an instant. 'J'he 
impulse continued for some little time, and carried her thrpu<'h tiie 
wutcr probably about half a mile; at which distance we could 

33 



258 TRAVELS ON 

perceive that the breeze we had left was blowing as strong as ever. 
It is said that ships are sometimes situated in this way on some 
parts of the coast of Africa, where the calms are frequent and of 
long duration ; and often accompanied by tremendous storms of 
thunder and linhtning. By the 25th, we appeared to be on the 
Banks of Newfoundland. The weather was foggy, and the ther- 
moniQtcr, which, the day before, had been at 72°, fell to 56°' 
We sounded, but found no bottom ; indeed we were nearly at 
the south point, where the water is very deep. On my former 
passage, I made some remarks on the formation of these banks, 
which my present observations tended to corroborate. I had heard 
a great deal of the fisheries on them; but, notwithstanding I had 
crossed them twice, 1 never saw any thing of the fishing vessels, 
nor did we take any fish. 

This great bank is about 330 miles in length, from south to 
north, and about 75 in breadth, from east to Vvcst. The depth of 
water on it, is from 15 to 60 fathoms. The fishery commences 
about the 10th of May, and continues till the end of September. 
The cod is cured in two ways ; one by drying them, the other by 
putting them up in pickle. The fisheries are computed to yield 
upwards of c£.300,000 sterling, annually, for the sujiply of the 
Catholic countries alone; and such is the immense supply of fish, 
that, notwithstanding the aimual drain, there is no sensible dimi- 
nution. " 

After leaving the banks, we had a series of west and north-west" 
v.inds, which sent us beyond the Gulf Stream, and as far to 
the southward as the latitude of 37° 30', where we found the 
weather very warm, the thermometer rising to 78° and' 80°. 

The weather was clear and fine, and the moon being in a fa- 
vourable position, we had lunar observations on dificrent morn- 
ings. The result we found to be very correct ; a proof of the 
great importance of the application of astronomy to one of the 
most useful arts. 

The v/ind shifted back again to the southv.-ard, and we bore a- 
way to the north -vvest, until the 6th of October, when we took a 
fair -ivind, which carried us to the .Jersey shore on the 8th, 40 
miles south of the light-house. We had a southerly wind, and 
were runni;5g to the northward, and would soon have made San- 
dy Hook, Init night came on, and we were deceived by a light, 
which we mistook for a light-house ; in consequence of which, we 



THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. 259 

lay to for the night. Next morning, at day-break, we set sail, 
and soon described the high hinds, and afterwards the hght-house ; 
and between 2 and 3 o'clock in the afternoon we received a pilot. 
We flocked round the pilot to learn the news, and were inform- 
ed, that the non-intercourse was again enforced by proclamation ; 
and that the American government were very much dissatisfied 
with the British for not executing Mr. Erskine's treaty. On this 
subject, however, I soon found that there was a considerable dif- 
ference of opinion ; indeed, some of the American newspapers, 
which we perused, justified the British government in every step, 
condemning that of America and Mr. Erskine ; and one of our 
company, an American citizen too, openly avowed that he could 
have no confidence in the government, unless there was a king at 
the head of it: even Mr. JeiFcrson, he believed, would have acted 
a much better part, had he been king of America. 

The passengers were upon the whole agreeable, and captain 
Staunton was one of the most obliging shipmasters I have ever been 
at sea with. He was well provided in a mate and good sailors, 
and every thing on board the vessel was conducted with great 
propriety. The cabin was remarkably well fia-nished, and we 
fared sumptuously all the way. 

Having crossed the bar, we proceeded up the channel with a 
light but fair breeze, and at 5 o'clock passed the Narrows, and 
stood in for the quarantine ground. Here we were visited by 
Lang and Turner, editors of the New York Gazette, who by their 
indefatigable attention to the shipping trade of the port of New 
York, have deserved well of their country, and have been amply 
rewarded by a very respectable patronage and support to their 
pc.per. 

Connected with this establishment is that of the Mercantile Ad- 
vertiser, the editors of which pay one half of the expense of pro- 
curing the shipping intelligence, and, of course, receive the same 
information as the Gazette; and so attentive are the parties to the 
business, that Mr. Lang has a house at the quarantine ground, 
where he resides with his family during the summer, and .speaks 
every vessel that comes into port. By this means the shipping in- 
telligence in these two papers is early and authentic, and they 
are the most respectable mercantile registers in New Yoik. 

We were oidy a few minutes here when the health oflicer came 
onboard, Avho, finding all well, gave us a bill of health, and we 



S60 TRAVELS IN 

set sail up the bay, and landed at the wharf at 8 o'clock. I im- 
mediately waited upon my friends, Mr. and Mrs. Stewart, from 
whom I had, as before, a friendly welcome. 



CHAPTER LVI. 

Net!) York, — P/i iladclph ia, — Sava?ma/i. 

I CONTINUED in New York until the 11th of November, 
when, having some business to attend to in Philadelphia, I set 
out for that city in the mail stage. We left New York at 1 
o'clock in the afternoon, and next morning at 5 o'clock we reach- 
ed Philadelphia, distant 97 miles. 

My business here was in friendly hands, and I got it arranged 
to my satisfaction in a short time, when I had a few days to spend 
with my friends. At the house where I lodged, a gentleman some- 
times called to spend the evenings. My friend and he were two 
of the most extensive and respectable merchants in Philadelphia, 
and, like myself, both were concerned in the British trade. We 
agreed in opinion as to the utility of this trade, but we differed 
regarding the cause of its interruption. I attributed it to what 1 
considered the true cause, which will be readily inferred from the 
foregoing pages ; but my friends were inclined to attribute it to 
the hostility of the democratic party in America to foreign com- 
merce. Considering this idea incorrect, I opposed it, which led 
to a pretty long discussion, in which I had occasion to state the 
view I took of foreign commerce generall}'^, and the importance of 
the relations between America and Britain. My friends assented 
to the correctness of my opinion, but insisted that it was so oppo- 
site to that of the democratic party, that, were I to draw it up, 
and send it to a democratic newspaper, it would not be inserted. 
Considering this a very good plan to bring the matter to the test, 
I drew up an essay, which received their approbation. It was 
sent to the Aurora, and; two days thereafter, made its appearance 
in that paper.* 

While I staid at Philadelphia, the negociations with the Brit- 
ish minister, Mr. Jackson, were broken off, and it clearly ap- 
peared to me, that nothing but the ascendancy of the whig party 

* See Appendix, No, IV, 



i| 



1 



GEOKGIA. 261 

in Britain would prevent a war ; but from the intelligence which 
I received from Britain, public and private, I thought it extreme- 
ly probable that this ascendancy would soon take place ; at any 
rate, I considered it would inevitably follow the appointment of 
the prince of Wales as regent, and that event was daily expected. 
I was guided by this view in my commercial arrangements, and 
took my measures accordingly. 

From Philadelphia 1 returned to New York, and from thence 
went by sea to Savannah, where I arrived on the 17th of Decem- 
ber, without meeting any adventure worth recording. 

On my arrival iu Savannah, I found matters in a dreadful state. 
The stock of goods was disassorted, and would not bring half the 
original value ; and the other funds, consisting chiefly of outstand- 
ing debts, if ever they would be collected at all, it could only be 
done at a labour, expense, and loss of time, that would probably 
bf greater than the ultimate value of them. A great many of 
them were in suit, and the courts of law were suspended, so that 
the recovery by that process was very tedious and uncertain. Our 
debtors amounted to the amazing number of 185, and they were so 
scattered over the land, that they occupied a space of nearly 
200 miles square. Some landed property belonged to the con- 
cern, and some negroes, (a species of commodity which I never 
wished to deal in,) and these had fallen in value. We had also a 
store, 220 miles in the interior of the country; but it held out no 
better prospect : while our American debts were large and uro-ent, 
a great portion of them custom-house bonds. I was absolutely 
sickened when I looked into the books, where I had nothino- to 
contemplate but the wrecks of a ruined estate, and the frao-ments 
of it scattered to and fro throughout the land ; so that no time 
could be fixed for its being eventually wound up. However, there 
was nothing for it but to arm myself with resolution ; and, after 
three months most ardent application, I got it reduced to some 
sort of order, and, having made a new arrangement with my 
partner to carry on a commission business, while the old concern 
was winding up, I set out on a collecting tour, taking in my way 
the store up the country. A few of the observations which I made 
on my journey shall be communicated in the next chapter. 



^^ TRAVELS IxV 



CHAPTER LVII. 

Savannah^— Louisvill€,--Greensburg,~Augmta. 
On the 2d of April I left Savannah, on horseback, at 5 o'clock 
in the afternoon. A young gentleman in a chair accompanied me, 
and we took the road to Louisville. The weather was warn, and 
sultry. We travelled 18 miles through a low marshy country, 
abounding in thick woods, but having a thin popuh.tion, to 
I'owelis, and here we stopped for the night. About 11 o'clock 
there was a thunder-gust to the south-east; the wind shifted to' 
the north-west, and the weather became suddenly cold. 

April 3d, we travelled through a wretched lookino- country 1^ 
miles, to breakfast; and 12 miles further to dinner,°part of the 
way through pine barrens. The country was now a little more 
elevated, but the soil poor and sandy, and so continued 20 miles 
to Jones', where we stopped for the night. Jones has a thriving 
plantation, and a fine peach orchard. ° 

April 4th, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that 
we passed yesterday, 14 miles, when, entering Burke county, we 
met with more improvements, and saw many fine peach orchards 
and the trees being in blossom, formed a very agreeable contrast 
to the barren wastes around them. At 6 o'clock in the evenino-, 
we reached Louisville, 100 miles from Savannah. I found the 
scat of government had been removed to Milledgeville ; but my 
friend Dr. Powell still remained at this place ; and'l passed a very 
agreeable evening with his family. The doctor was not at home, 
and I regretted much that I had not an opportunity of thanking 
him for his kindness and attention when I was here before. 

April 5. At half past 8 o'clock we set out for Sparta. A mile 
from Louisville, we passed a considerable stream called Rocky 
Comfort, where there are a number of mills; and this being the 
boundary between the high and low country, the scenery" now 
becomes more variegated. Five miles beyond this the road forks ; 
we took the right-hand road, but it was the wrong one, and led 
IIS sLx miles out of our way, through a barren country. The 
country improves towards the Ogecche river, which we crossed 
at the Shoals, and here there are several important mills. The 
banks of the river are steep and rocky, and the soil in the neio-h- 



GEORGIA. 



263 



bourhood is pretty fertile, producing wheat, corn, &c. After 
crossing the river, we passed over vast masses of rock, and, travel- 
ling 14 miles, we reached Sparta, towards which the soil improves, 
and there is a pretty fertile country round it. 

Sparta is a small town, but until of late it had a very floui-ishing 
commerce, and a great deal of mercantile business was transacted 
in it. It has now, in consequence of the stoppage of foreign com- 
merce, suffered most severely. Many of the merchants, and 
country people, cannot pay their debts ; and the winding up of 
the business, through the medium of the courts of law, has pro- 
duced effects distressing to contemplate. I was informed that 
there was now no demand for British goods at all; and all the 
people wei'e clothing themselves in homespun. 

At Sparta I parted with my young ft lend, who returned to Sa- 
vannah, and I went further up the country to Greensburg. Meet- 
ing with a countryman who kept a tavern about halF-way, I avail- 
ed myself of liis company, and lodged at his house during the 
night. My fellow-traveller, who was very communicative, told 
me that the country in this district was healthy, and the lands 
generally good. The price of land uncleared, was from two to 
five dollars per acre. On reaching the house, I found his family 
all busily employed in manufacturing, and they showed me a num- 
ber of the articles, which were very good, some of them handsome. 
They told me that, besides supplying the family, they made a 
considerable quantity of goods for sale. 

April 7. The morning being beautiful, I started at day-light, 
and travelled through a very pleasant country, 13 miles, to Greens- 
burg. The soil is good, and abounds with a species of timber, 
called dog-wood, which bears a white flower, and being now in 
I full blossom, the woods formed a most beautiful appearance. The 
north-west wind, which commenced on the 2d, contniued until 
now, and the weather was healthy and delightful. 

Greensburg is a handsome town, containing about 200 inhabi- 
tants, and is improving ; but the mercantile business is in a very 
»l tluU state. The country is handsome round it, and the situation 
is elevated and healthy. 

At 12 o'clock, noon, I set out for Mount Vernon^ in the new 
purchase, where our country store was situated 22 miles from 
Greensburg. Eight miles from Greensburg, through a pretty 
4iOod, but thinly-settled country, is the Oconee river, and three 



264 TRAVELS IN 

miles beyond this, through a country nearly similar, is the Appa- 
lachy. Tl>ese two rivers are very fine streams, and 1 passed both 
by boats. From the Appalachy to Mount Vernon, I travelled 1 1 
miles in the new })urchase, and I was really surprised to observe 
the number of settlements that had been made in the short space 
of four years. The greater part of the lots were disposed of, and 
I was hardly ever out of sight of a plantation. The surface of 
the country is agreeably uneven, abounding in springs and small 
rivulets, and, from the appearance of the people, I have no doubt 
but the country is very healthy. 

I spent several days in this place, on one of which I went to 
Madison, the county-town, six miles from Mount Vernon. This 
was laid out only a year before, yet it is now a thriving place, 
having a court-house, a number of dwelling-houses, three taverns, 
and as many stores^. 

On the 15th of April, I left this district, on my return to 
Greensburg. On my arrival there, I found the inhabitants in a 
state of alarm. Advice had just been received, that a letter had 
been found in the state of Virginia, dated from Greensburg, 
stating that all was ready in Georgia, and recommending prompt 
measures to be pursued in executing the work in Virginia. It was 
presumed that the work alluded to was the assassination of the 
white people. The alarm being given, it had spread through the 
country in all directions ; and the people had adopted measures 
of precaution. At this place the guards paraded the streets all 
night. 

On the 16th, at 12 o'clock, I left Greensburg for Augusta, ac- 
companied by a doctor of medicine, a very intelligent gentleman, 
who lived 16 miles below Greensburg. While we travelled to- 
o-ether w^e had a good deal of convei'sation regarding the present 
alarm in the country, concerning which we made inquiry at all 
the settlements we passed, and of all the people we saw. We 
found that some of them were a good deal alarmed ; others con- 
sidered that there was no danger ; and some ridiculed tho whole 
as an idle tale. But they all thought there was a propriety in 
taking measures of precaution. 

I was satisfied, upon the whole, that the alarm was greater than 
the dano-er: and that there never can be a successful organization 
of the black people against the whites, upon a large scale, m 
Georgia ; ner indeed in any part of the United States. A short; 



GEORGIA. 



265 



glance at the subject may be useful, because I found that it was 
generally supposed in Britain, that the southern states would be 
eventually destroyed in this way. 

By the census of 1 800, I find that all the slaves north of the 
state of Delaware, amount to only 135,516; being such a small 
proportion to the white inhabitants, that they can have no influ- 
ence ; and as a gradual abolition is going on, the proportion is 
diminishing every year. 

In those states where slavery exists in full force, the relative num- 
bers, in ] 800, stood as in the following table : 





Free Persons. 


Slaves. 


Delaware 


58,130 


6,143 


Maryland 


241,985 


107,707 


Virginia 


534,396 


345,796 


Kentucky 


180,602 


40,343 


N. Carolina 


334,807 


133,296 


S. Carolina 


199,340 


146,151 


Georgia 


102,989 


59,699 


Tennessee 


92,018 


13,584? 



1,744,267 852,699 

From this table it appears that the free people outnumber the 
slaves about two to one; and we cannot suppose that ever the pro- 
portion on the side of the slaves will be greater than it is now, more 
especially when we consider that all importation has ceased. 
Hence the mere physical strength is above two to one on the 
side of the white people ; and those who possess any degree of intel- 
ligence among the negroes are fully aware of this, and must know 
that any attempt at insurrection would end in their own destruction. 
It is only by men of intelligence among them, heading an insurrec- 
tion, that they could have any chance at all. 

But, in the next place, the whole artificial strength of the country 
is in the hands of the white people ; and when we consider that a 
single despot, at the head of a band ot armed men, comparatively 
fevr^ can rule a whole country with a rod of iron, we can calculate 
what effect an attempt on the part of one third of a nation in a state 
of slavery, without arms, without annnunition, without eJucation, 
or the power of holding conversation with one another by writing j 

34 



266 



TRAVELS IN 



We can calculate what effect an attempt on their part would have 
to destroy the other two thirds, who have every advantage that the 
others want. 

It has been supposed that the slaves could organize a plan to as- 
sassinate the white people, and to perform the whole in one night. 
The thing is hnpossible. No plan of this kind can be organized on 
'a large scale v/ithout detection ; and the power to organize such a 
plan by the slaves in these states, is so limited as hardly to merit 
notice. Besides all this, there is probably hardly a family in the 
United States where there is not one or more of the slaves attached 
to them from some personal consideration. The women, in parti- 
cular, are a great many of them employed in the capacity of domes- 
tic servants, and some of them are as much in the confidence of their 
mistresses as ladies' maids are in England ; others have nursed the 
children ; and the whole have less or more associated with the white 
children when young. These are all so many tics of affection, which 
but a small majority among the negroes, I believe, would be wil- 
lini- to break in order to organize rebellion ; and it will be perceiv- 
ed that a single discovery, by one slave, leads to a detection of a 
whole jjlot. 

But indeed it appears to me that the blacks are in general a good- 
natured, well disposed, peaceable people; and nothing but ill usage, 
so extreme as to drive them to a state of desperation, could ever 
bring about any general plan for the assassination of the white people. 
There may be particular local circumstances of revolt; but none is 
ever to be apprehended of a nature sulficient to endanger the safe- 
ty of the southern states, or of any one individual state. 

Having travelled 30 miles through a pretty pleasant country, I 
arrived in the evening at Washington, which is a pleasant little 
town, containing about 100 houses ; and the fields in its neighbour- 
hood are in a high state of cultivation. 

April 17th. 1 left Washington at day-light, and at ten reached 
Ray's mills, a handsome settlement on a considerable stream of wa- 
ter. Having some little business to transact here, I stopped all day. 
The people iu the house where I lodged had a very extensive ma- 
nufactory of homespun ; and they were all substantially clad in cot- 
ton cloth of their own mauuiacture, some of it elegant. 

On the IBih i travelled IG miles, through a pretty good country, 
to Columbia Court-Housc, a small place, handsomely situated, 22 
miles wctt from Augusta. 



GEORGIA. 267 

On the 19th I travelled through a country nearly similar to that 
I passed through the day before; towards Augusta the soil is good, 
and the country improves in appearance, being in a high state of 
cultivation. I reached Augusta at twelve o'clock, and, being a place 
I always admired, I stopped here some days. 

One of my first calls was on my old friend the Major, with whom 
I travelled from New York to Boston, four years bdfore ; and we 
spent a few hours together, in which we recounted our adventures 
on Long Island sound. The gentleman with whom I lodged having 
a taste for natural philosophy, chemistry, and mechanics, I had al- 
ways a rich intellectual feast on my return to my lodgings. 

I left Augusta on the 26th for llichmond springs, where I saw my 
old friend the poet, and his sable mistress, with wliom I lodged two 
days, and then passed over to Waynesboi'ough, where being hospi- 
tably entertained a few days by some very respectable jilanters in 
that neighbourhood, I set out for Savannah on the 3d of May, in 
company with two very agreeable friends, and arrived on the 5lh 
at noon. 

During this journey to the upper country, I made every inquiry 
that I could regarding the state of its commercial concerns, and I 
\vas satisfied that it had midcrgone a great revolution sinc'c* I was 
in the country before. The staple commodity of the state is cotton, 
and it had so fallen in value as to cut off upwards of one third of the 
income of the country. It followed that the inhabitants must cur- 
tail their expenditure in proportion. I accordingly found that all 
the people in the interior of the country were clothed in homespun. 
In almost every family a cotton manufactory was to be seen, and in 
some instances they had introduced spinning upon a pretty large 
scale, by jennies. At a parade of the militia, at Augustii, I was told 
that out of 500 men only two were to be found who had a single 
article of British manufacture about them. It had become fashion- 
able eveiy where to wear homespun ; and from the very substantial 
stuff tiie people were making, and the agreeable employment it af- 
forded to the young vomen of the country, I was convinced that 
this trade would encrease, probably to nearly the total exchision of 
British goods from the state. This was far from beino' flatter! no- to 
me; and the commission business, in whicii we had embarked, was 
much arfected by the low price of cotton, and the general dull state 
of trade. Having, therefore, very little to do, I confided the busi- 
ness to the management of my partner, and set out for the northern 
states, by way of Charleston. 



26S 



TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER LVIII. 

Charleston^ — New York, — Philadelphia^ — Stateji Island. 

On the 9th of June I left Sava.nnah, with my old friend, captain 
Cooper, in the Delight. The weather was exceedingly sultry, and 
we had a light southerly breeze down the river, but we were favour- 
ed by the tide, and got to sea before dark, when a fine breeze sprung 
up, and we reached Charleston light-house by day-light. At 8 
o'clock, we landed in the city. 

Here I was invited to lodge with a friend, which was a fortunate 
circumstance, for I had been but a short time in the city vrhen I 
was seized with a fever ; but by timely attention and good nursing 
I got clear of it in the course of a few days. 

During my stay here I went to see Sullivan's Island : in our way 
we passed the fortifications, where considerable repairs and altera- 
tions had taken place ; and it was presumed the harbour was now 
in a very respectable state of defence. Sullivan's Island is an excel- 
lent summer retreat, and is open on all sides to the sea breeze, so 
that it is entirely free from every vestige of marsh or putrid effluvia, 
and consequently from all epidemical sickness. 

On Sunday, the 17th June, I went on board the Eliza, captain 
Leslie, for New York. This was a very handsome vessel, remark- 
ably well found in every respect, and she was on this occasion crowd- 
ed with passengers, having no less than 24. On crossing the bar we 
put to sea with a north-east wind, which sent us a considerable way 
to the south of our course; and after being beat about with head 
winds for several days, we took a heavy gale from the south-east, 
which nearly put us ashore on Cape Look-out shoals. The gale 
subsided, but we had still head winds until the 26th, when near 
Cape Hatteras, we took a fair wind, which carried us into New 
York on the 30th. 

Nothin.o- material occurred in this city until the 4<tli of July, when 
the anniversary of independence was celebrated with great splendor, 
and was equally attended to by both the political parties. The fe- 
deral procession consisted principally of the Washington and Ha- 
milton Societies, in number 700 or 800 ; that of the republicans was 
composed of the Tammany Society, ^Manhattan Society, and the dif- 
ferent trudcb' societies in the city. The processions were conduct- 



NEW YORK. 269 

.ed respectively to different churches, where, aftei* prayer, the de- 
claration of independence was read, and an oration delivered, ac- 
companied with several pieces of appropriate vocal and instrumen- 
tal music. 

An outward display of great festivity was exhibited all over the 
city, by firing guns, ringing bells, with military and other proces- 
sions ; and the evening was spent generally in a social manner, by- 
different societies and private circles. In every party they had a re- 
gular series of 17 toasts, one for each state, and a number of volun- 
teer toasts from the company. These toasts were very sentimental, 
and may be considered as a very good barometer for discovering the 
particular political opinions of the party. 

Having no particular business in the city, I went to live a few 
weeks on Long Island, which is a delightful summer residence* 
During this time I took a jaunt as far as Jamaica, a pretty little vil- 
lage, 12 miles to the eastward of New York, and by the finest road 
I had yet seen in America. The settlements by the way are very 
handsome, and some of the buildings are elegant. A number of ve- 
ry respectable inhabitants, some of whom are merchants of New 
York, reside in Jamaica ; and it has a seminary for education, es- 
teemeel one of the best in the state. The country round is very 
pleasant, and to the north is a ridge of hills from whence there is a 
very fine view of the adjacent country, and a considerable distance 
out at sea. Having spent a day at this place, I returned in the e- 
vening by Newtown, a pleasant little village near East river. In 
the whole circuit I found the sides of the road clad with fruit-trees, 
and the crops of fruit very abundant. 

About this time I fell in with a gentleman from Scotland, who 
was in expectation of a considerable quantity of goods in the fall, 
and we agreed to transact business together during that season, 
with a view of a more permanent connexion, if the trade continu- 
ed open. Having, previous to this, determined to remain in 
America, I had written to my family, and expected them earlv in 
the fall ; and, in order to receive them, I took lodgings at the qua- 
rantine ground, on Staten Island ; and having stationed my son in 
our new lodgings, I accompanied two of our New York friends to 
Philaelelphia. 

We travelled by the mail stage, and were determined to be 
merry. One of our members, being a limb of the law, made some 
very animated dissertations, legal, logical, moral and critical, td 



270 TRAVKLS IN 

the great edification of the company. A young Englishman matii- 
fested his national feelings, by assuring us of the great demand for 
Henglish goods aiome ,- and expatiated on the unimportance of the 
American trade ; but some of us knew better. However, he was a 
pleasant companion, and joined in our amusements with much 
satisfaction. 

In the course of our journey, we encountered a stage full of 
people, some of whom, we were informed, had been at a camp 
meeting; and a preacher fron New York, who had some time be- 
fore been interdicted by the corporation from disturbing the peace 
of that city by his eccentricities, sat in the front of the carriage. 
A good many witticisms were passed on this circumstance, and on 
the nature of camp meetings, and the facility with which certain 
members of the communit}'^ could accommodate themselves with 
partners, and soforth. This occasioned a good deal of laughter in 
both stages ; but the zealous man, retaining all his gravity, assured 
us there would be no laughter in hell. It was one of those quaint 
remarks which excites no novel idea ; but yet it produced much 
merriment, a proof that there is a time for all things under the sun; 
and assuredly serious allusions to the place just mentioned do not 
suit a stage-travelling audience. 

Having arrived in Philadelphia without further accident than the 
loss of a hat, I remained in that fine city some days, and returned 
by the steam boat line. 

This being the first time I travelled by the steam boat, it furnish- 
ed much subject for remark. The extent of the works, the mag^ 
nitude of tiie waters over which we had to travel, the scenery on 
the land, the order arnl economy on board the boats and in the 
over-land stages, all excited my admiration ; and this being a route 
very much travelled, it may be gratifying to go a little into detail, 
by a short sketch of the journey. 

We went on board the steam boat, in the Delaware river, at 7 
o'clock in the morning. The boat immediately started from the 
wharf, and moved majestically through the wator, at the rate of 7 
miles an hour. As the boat was perfectly easy in her motion, I 
bad a good opportunity of examining her works, and of observ- 
ing the application of them to produce motion in the boat. The 
engine was constructed on Bolton and Watt's plan, and the power 
was communicated through the n^edium of a walking beam of a 
peculiar construction, adaptod to the boat, and from thence to 



Pennsylvania. 271 

wheels on each side, something like mill wheels, which, by a rota- 
tory motion through the water, impelled the boat the contrary way, 
producing pi'ecisely the same effect as oars. The boat was suffi- 
ciently capacious to carry 100 passengers, and was furnished with 
every requisite for boarding and lodging, that could be obtained in 
a good tavern. 

By this conveyance we travelled to Bordentown, a delightful 
situation, 30 miles from Piiiladelphia. Here we were accommo- 
dated with stages, which conveyed us across Jersey, 36 miles, to 
New Brunswick, where we stopped all night. 

Next morning we set out at 6 o'clock, by another steam boat, for 
New York. This boat was much larger than that on the Delaware, 
and her steam works were somewhat different in the construction, 
but the principle was precisely the same. We sailed along the 
Rariton with great majesty, and arriving at Perth Ambov, we took 
in some passengers, when we took a course through a narrow arm 
of the sea, that runs between Staten Island and the Jersey shore. 

Having no particular business at New York till the fall goods 
would arrive, 1 landed at Staten Island, which I found to be a 
most agreeable place in the summer season. The quarantine 
ground is handsomely situated, on the cast side of the island, on a 
small bay, about a mile and a half above the narrows. The land 
here rises boldly from the shore, and is perfectly healthy. A con- 
siderable piece of ground is enclosed for the health offices ; and the 
healtli officer, and his assistant, reside within the enclosure. Con- 
tiguous to it an officer of the the customs resides ; and in the 
neighbourhood area number of respectable families. Mr. Lang, for- 
merly mentioned, and his family, reside here in the summer season. 
There was, upon the whole, a very social circle at this place, em- 
bellished by a number of handsome young ladies; and we had many 
agreeable parties. Our society was often augmented by visitors 
from New York, and strangers arriving at the quarantine ground ; 
so that the variety of sentiment among us, religious and political, 
was in proportion to our numbers; but it never interfered with our 
social harmony. Religion and politics are two of the most im- 
portant concerns of mankind ; — the one embracing his interests 
now, and the other hereafter; and in proportion as people feel 
a lively interest in both, they will become the topics of conversa- 
tion. " Out of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh." 
But they are subjects which admit of a great variety of sentiment. 



27)^ TRAVELS IN 

and on which mankind will never think alike. Hence it is of im- 
portance that they be discussed temperately, and with deference to 
the feelings of each other. One of the most important circum- 
stances in discussing them, is to avoid all personal abuse, more 
especially of public characters. In a popular government, no 
man can be appointed to a public station, without having the voice 
of a majority in his favour, real or implied. To call him names, 
thei'efore, and to load him with all manner of reproaches, is just 
to abuse, at second hand, those who have appointed him, of whom 
your political antagonist may be one. It is often so viewed, and 
anger and strife ensue; and thus, a discussion that, properly 
managed, might be conducive to promote knowledge and informa- 
tion, becomes often the means of raising the whirlwind of passion, 
and of destroying the peace of society. 



CHAPTER LIX. 

2^e'w Yor/i, — Cormncrcial Vievis. 

I. HE expected goods arrived early in the fall, and in greater 
quantity than was at first calculated on, and there was a very good 
fall trade, so that I was pretty busily employed in New York, till 
the month of November, when I was delighted by the safe arrival 
of my family. I was now most anxious to settle in New York, in a 
mercantile capacity, and there seemed to be a considerable proba- 
bility that 1 would be able to accomplish that object. The nego- 
ciations between America and Britain were continued, and had 
been so long protracted, that I was inclined to think all interrup- 
tions would be done away. Indeed the American government had 
placed her foreign relations on a footing by which the English 
ministry could get an ascendancy over France on terms so easy, 
that, shaken as my confidence in them was, I could not imagine 
but that they would embrace it. America had opened her trade 
to both belligerents, accompanied by a declaration, that on any 
one of them withdrawing their unjust edicts, so far as they inter- 
fered with her neutralit}', she would immediately enforce the non- 
intercourse act against the other. Both parties had expressed the 
utmost good-will towards America, and asserted that the edicts 
were only meant to annoy the trade of each other; alleging that 



NEW YORK, 273 

America could not reasonably complain that it accidentally inter- 
fered with her trade, as she had not set up the proper resistance. 
It was impossible that America could set up a resistance to both, 
in any other way than by withdrawing from the ocean altogether, 
which was a resistance that might be made, and had been made for 
a time ; but it could not be endured for ever. It was a sacrifice 
without an object ; she could in that case have wo trade. She 
therefore came to the resolution of resisting any one of them, on 
getting the freedom of the seas restored, as far as it had been ob- 
structed, by the other. How eagerly then would a wise ministry 
have seized this opportunity of cultivating the friendship of a great 
and growing nation, whose trade is of such importance to Britain ; 
and of putting their deadly enemy in the wrong in the face of the 
whole world ! But the sincerity of the British ministry was now 
brought to the test, and Bonaparte, as usual, triumphed over them 
and the nation. The French minister, Champagny, intimated to 
the American minister at Paris, that the decrees were withdrawn, 
in these terms : " The decrees of Berlin and Milan are revoked, 
and' they will cease to be in force from the 1st of November next, 
it being understood that, in consequence of this declaration, the 
English shall, as they have declared they would, revoke their or- 
ders in council, and renounce the principles of blockade which 
they have attempted to estabhsh, or that the United States, con- 
formably to the act of congress you have just communicated, shall 
cause their rights to be respected by the English." 

This was officially announced by the president's proclamation of 
the 2d of November; and, no corresponding act having taken 
place in England, the non-intercourse act was put in force against 
that country ; and thus again were ray commercial arrangements 
defeated. 

In the mean time I had kept up an intercourse with my partner 
in Savannah, and from a supposition that some business might be 
done between that port and New York, we tried the experiment 
by a small shipment from each ; but they were both unsuccessful, 
and I was satisfied that while the restrictions were continued, no 
beneficial trade could be carried on, at least by us, between these 
two ports. Indeed I was tired of the Savannah trade altogether, 
and anxiously wished for an opportunity to get entirely clear of it. 

But matters did not yet appear entirely hopeless with England. 
The president stated in his message to congress, that, " To a com- 

35 



274 TRAVELS IN 

miuiication from our minister at Lx)ndon of the revocation of the 
Berlin and IVIilan decrees, it was answered, that the British system 
would be relinquished as soon as the repeal of the French decrees 
should have actually taken effect, and the commerce of neutral nations 
have been restored to the condition in which it stood previously to 
the promulgation of those decrees. This pledge, although it does 
not necessarily import, does not exclude the intention of relin- 
quishing along witii the orders in council, the practice of those 
novel blockades, which have a like effect of interrupting our fo- 
reign commerce. And this further justice to the United States is 
the rather to be looked for, inasmuch as the blockade in question, 
being not more contrary to the established law of nations, than 
inconsistent with the rules of trade recognised by Great Britain 
herself, could have no legal basis, other than the plea of retaliation 
allesed as the basis of the orders in council." 

It was started in a subsequent part of the message, indeed, that, 
"On the other important subjects depending between the United 
States and that government, no progress has been made from 
which an early and satisfactory result could be relied on ;" ;^et I 
considered there was still a probability of the trade being opened. 
I thought the ministry would not surely be so mad as to persevere 
in a system which went to preclude the valuable manufactures of 
the country from a market to the extent of ten or twelve millons 
sterling annually ; and I went on making my arrangements to act 
as an awent for some British manufacturers, in which I had a pro- 
spect of excellent connexions. 

In following up my plan relative to this branch, I was naturally 
led to inquire into the State of the internal manufactures of the 
country, and I was astonished to obsei*Ve the rapid progress which 
they had made in the course of a few j-ears, and the great extent 
to which they had risen. 

By the secretary of the treasury's report, which was only in 
part, it appeared, that " the following manufactures are carried 
on to an extent which may be considered adequate to the supply 
«of the United States. 

Wooden articles of every kind. 

Leather, and articles of leather.- 

Soap, and tallow candles. 

Spermaceti oil and candies. 

Flaxseed oil. 



NEW YOBK. 275 

Refined sugar. 

Coarse earthen ware. 

Snuff, chocolate, hair-powder, and mustard. 
*' The following branches are firmly established, supplying the 
greater part of the consumption of the Unitetl States. 

Iron, and articles of iron. 

Cotton, wool, flax, and hemp. 

Hats and straw bonnets. 

Paper, printing types, printed books, playing cards. 

Spirituous and malt liquors. 

Wax candles. 
*' Progress has been made in the following branches; 

Paints and colours. 

Chemical preparations, and medicinal drugs. 

Salt. 

Copper and brass. 

Japanned and plated ware. 

Queen's and other earthen ware. 

Glass ware, &c. &c. 
" Many other articles, on which no information has been re- 
ceived, are undoubtedly omitted." 

The report goes on to state the outlines of the information re- 
ceived on the respective branches, all of which is exceedingly im- 
portant ; but I shall only make a few extracts, relative to some of 
the most prominent articles. 

*•' Coiio72, JVooi, and Flax. 

** The first cotton mill was erected in the stat« of Rhode Is- 
land, in the year 1791, another in the same state, in the year 
1795; and two more in the state of Massachussets, in the years 
1803 and 1804. During the three succeeding years, ten more 
were erected in Rhode Island, and one in Connecticut, makino- 
altogether 15 mills, erected before the year 1808, working at that 
time about 8000 spindles, and producing about 300,000lbs. of 
yarn a-year. 

" Returns have been received of 87 mills, which were erected at 
the end of the year 1809; 62 of which (48 water and 14 horse 
mills) were in operation, and worked at that time 31,000 spindles. 
The other 25 will be all in operation in the course of this year. 



276 TR4VELS IN 

and together with the former ones, (all of which are increasing 
their machinery,) will, by the estimate received, work more than 
80,000 spindles at the commencement of the year ISll. 

*' The capital required to carry on the manufacture on the best 
terms is estimated at the rate of 100 dollars per spindle ; but it is 
believed, that no more than at the rate of 60 dollars is generally 
employed. Each spindle produces annually about 56 pounds of 
yarn from 45lbs. of cotton ; and the value of the yarn may be a- 
vcragcd as worth 1 dollar 12| cents per lb. Eight hundred spin- 
dles employ 40 persons, viz. 5 men, 35 women and children. 

" The increase of carding and spinning cotton by machinery, 
in establishments for that purpose, exclusively of that done in 
private familes, has been fourfold during the last two years, and 
tenfold in three years. Thirty six of these mills, working 20,406 
spindles, are situated within 30 miles of Providence. The remain- 
der are scattered all over the country. 

" Hosiery may be considered as almost exclusively a household 
manufacture. That of Gcrmantown has declined, and it does 
not appear to have been attempted on a large scale in other places. 
There are, however, some exceptions ; and it is stated, that the 
island of Martha's Vineyard exports annually 9000 pair of stock- 
ings. 

" But by far the greater part of the goods made of cotton, flax, 
and wool, are manufactured in private families, mostly for their 
own use, and partly for sale. They consist principally of coarse 
cloth, flannel, cotton stuffs, and stripes of every description, linen, 
and mixtures of wool with flax and cotton. The information re- 
ceived from every state, and from more than GO different places, 
concurs in establishing the fact of an extraordinary increase during 
the last two years, and in rendering it probable, that about two- 
thirds of the clothing, and house and table linen of the inhabi- 
tants of the United States, who do not reside in seaports, is made 
in this way. 

" In the eastern and middle states, carding machines, worked 
by water, are every where established, and they are rapidly ex- 
tending southwardly and westwardly. Jennies, other family spin- 
ning machines, and flying shuttles, are also introduced in many 
places ; and as many fulling mills are erected as are required for 
finishing all the cloth that is woven in private families. 

" The va'ue of the goods made of cotton, wool, and flax, which 



NEW YORK. 277 

are annually manufactured in the United States, is calculated to 
exceed 40,000,000 dollars. 

" The manufacture of cards and wire is intimately connected 
with this part of the subject. Whitemore's machine for making 
cards has completely excluded foreign importations of that article, 
but the wire is altogether imported. It appears, however, that the 
manufacture of it may and would be immediately established, so 
as to supply the demand both for cards and other objects, provi- 
ded the same duty was imposed on wire (now imported duty free) 
which is laid on other articles of the same material. 

« 

*' Earthen and Glass-ti^are. 

*' A sufficient quantity of the coarser species of pottery is made 
every where ; and information has been received of four manufac- 
tories of a finer kind lately established. One at Philadelphia, with 
a capital of 1 1 ,000 dollars, manufactures a species similar to that 
made in Staffordshire, in England ; and the others in Chester coun- 
ty, in Pennsylvania, in New Jersey, and on the Ohio, make va- 
rious kinds of queen's- ware. 

" Information has been obtained of 10 glass manufactories, 
which employ about 140 glass-blowers, and make annually 27,000 
boxes of window glass, containing each 100 square feet of glass. 
Some of these manufactories make also green bottles and other 
wares ; and two works, employing together 6 glass-blowers, have 
been lately erected at Pittsburg, and make decanters, tumblers, 
and every other description of flint glass of a superior quality. 

" It is inferred, that the annual product of the American manu- 
factures exceeds 120,000,000 dollars; and it is not improbable 
that the raw material used, and the provisions and other articles 
consumed by the manufacturers, creates a home market for agri- 
cultural products not very inferior to that which arises from foreign 
demand. 

" The most prominent of the causes which have hitherto im- 
peded the progress of manufactures have been the abundance of 
land, compared with the population, the high price of labour, and 
the want of capital. The superior attractions of agricultural pur- 
suits, the great extension of American commerce, during the late 
European wars, and the continuance of habits after the causes 
which produced them have ceased to exist, may also be enumerat- 



278 TRAVELS IN 

ed. Several of these obstacles have, however, been removed of 
lessened. The cheapness of provisions had always, to a certain 
extent, counterbalanced the high price of manual labour; and this 
is now, in many important branches, nearly superseded by the 
introduction of machinery. A great American capital has been 
acquired during the last twenty years ; and the injurious violation 
of the neutral commerce of the United States, by forcing industry 
and capital into other channels, have broken inveterate habits, and 
given a general impulse, to which must be ascribed the great en- 
crease of manufactures during the two last years." 

It would be tedious to enumerate the twentieth part of the in- 
formation, which came under my observation in corroboration of 
this report ; I shall, therefore, only condescend upon one single 
circumstance, which shows at one glance the great progress of ma- 
nufactures, and how little the subject may be known by those 
who live in the sea-ports. In the county of New York, compre- 
hending the whole island, there were, in 1810, only three looms; 
the number in the state was 33,068 ; and the general summary of 
the manufactures, in the state, was as follows : 

Value. 



Looms 


33,068 3^ards cloth 9,099,703 dol. 


5,002,891 


Tan works 




867 


leather 


1,299,542 


Distilleries 




591 


spirits 


1,685,794 


Breweries 




42 


beer 


340,765 


Fulling mills 




427 enhanced value of cloth 


679,126 


Paper mills 




28 


paper 


233,268 


Hat factories 




124 


hats 


249,035 


Glass works 




6 


glass (besides bottles) 


716,820 


Powder mills 




2 


powder 


10,040 


Rope walks 




18 


ropes 


538,000 


Sugar houses 




10 


sugar 


420,706 


Oil mills 




2S 


oil 


49,283 


Blast furnaces 




11 


iron wares 


205,300 


Air furnaces 




10 


do. 


156,720 


Cut-nail factories 


44 


nails 


276,932 


Forges 




48 


iron 


185,240 


Trip hammers 




49 


do. 


40,000 


Rolling; and slit 


■] 








ting mills 


1 


do. 


33,120 


Carding machines 


413 


(value in cloth stated above 


) 



NEW YORK. 279 

Cotton factories 26 (value not ascertained) 

Woollen factories (ditto) 

Salt 525,000 bushels U7,000 

Silk 2,240 skeins 

Articles in State Prison 60,000 

The whole manufactures may be estimated above 17 millions of 
dollars, exclusive of flour, ashes, maple sugar, cyder, &c. 

The aggregate of the manufactures of Pennsylvania, I found to 
exceed 28 millions of dollars; and they appeared every where to be 
approaching nearly to a supply of the internal demand, while 
those of Rhode Island exceeded it, and afforded a great surplus 
for exportation. 

From these and several other circumstances which came under 
my review, I was led to believe that the trade to Britain, on which 
I had fixed my dependence, would be now so much curtailed, that 
it would be precarious : but I had been long in it ; my habits were 
formed to it ; and I was unwilling to relinquish it, while there 
was a ray of hope left. 

At last that ray of hope was dissipated. The prince of Wales 
was appointed regent ; but no new ministry was formed, nor any 
measure adopted to restore harmony between the two countries : 
— " I therefore calculated that internal manufactures and com- 
merce would, in all probability, be substituted for foreign com- 
merce," and I resolved to shape my course acordingly. 



CHAPTER LX. 

Nciv York, — Philadelphia, — Baltimore^ — Washingfoji. 

iXAVING now to fix on a new line of life, it was the subject of 
much reflection and study to find out which would be the best ; and 
the result was that my affections tended most towards agriculture. 
1 had been bred to this branch in my youth ; I had always admired 
it ; but 1 saw that in my own country I never could rise to complete 
independence in it ; I could never expect to farm my own property. 
When therefore a chance turned up which presented a fair prospect 
for success in the commercial world, I gladly embraced it ; I was 
for a considerable while successful in it beyond my most sanguine 
expectations; but the times became at length so ouirageousli/ sinou- 



280 TRAVELS IN 

lar that my whole plans were disconcerted, and I was wofully dis- 
appointed. I had been so long out of the habit of agricultural pur- 
suits that I foresaw a difficulty in resuming them, and there were 
several difficulties to encounter otherwise; but, on the other hand, 
I knew that I could, by ray own labour alone, support my family 
on five acres of land, if necessary ; so that we never could in that 
branch be absolutely destitute : and from the ease with which land 
can be procured in this country, I thought I could be more inde- 
pcndendent in it than any other. 

I had travelled a great deal in America, but, as my pursuits were 
commercial, my travels were confined to the commercial districts. 
In an agricultural point of view, I was led to beheve, from all I had 
heaz'd, that the western country presented the finest field ; and at 
any rate it seemed to be of consequence to me to examine it, on ac- 
count of the low price of land. 

As I had always a strong desire to join objects of public utility 
with my private pursuits ; it now occurred that I might arrange a 
plan so as to give the public correct and authentic information re- 
garding a section of the country but imperfectly known, although 
of great importance ; and from a review of the information I had 
already collected, I thought it might be a desideratum in literature 
to publish my travels in the Atlantic states and Britain, at the same 
time. 

I communicated ray ideas on this subject to a number of my 
friends, and my plan having met their approbation, I resolved to under- 
take a pretty extended tour into the western country. A^^ith a view 
of fixing upon the best route, and the objects of greatest importance 
to be attended to, I availed myself of all the information I could 
procure from books, maps, and persons who had lately visited that 
country ; and determined to take a journey to Philadelphia and 
AVashington, to procure the needful information regarding un- 
fccttled lands, particularly those belonging to the United States. 

Having stationed my family in an agreeable and healthy situation 
on Long Island, beside excellent neighbours, I set out for Philadel- 
phia, by the steam boat, on the 15th of May, and arrived on the 17th. 

Here I was introduced to a gentleman well acquainted with land, 
and he procured me every information regarding the state of Penn- 
sylvania, and some other places ; and gave me otherwise such infor- 
mation as greatly facilitated my after inquiries. 

I carried with me a letter of introduction to Mr. Latrobe, at 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



281 



Washington, and I fortunately met with him at Philadelphia, 
where he was attending a meeting of the Society of Artists of the 
United States, of which he was one of the vice-presidents. As 
Mr. Latrobc was well. acquainted with Mr. Gallatin, to whom he 
promised to introduce me, I was induced to wait a few days for his 
departure, and this afforded me a little more time to see this fine 
city. 

I found that it had greatly increased in size, splendour, and 
wealth, since I first visited it. The population had encrcased in 
ten years from 81,000 to 111,210. Many important manufactures 
had been established; and the fine arts had flourished in an emi- 
nent degree. Connected with this last subject, I was happy to find 
tliat the artists had recently formed themselves into a society, un- 
der the title of the Society of Artists of the United States ; 
and their institution is formed on such principles, and is in such a 
train of management, as promises to be highly useful to the progress 
of the arts in this country. A short account of this infant society 
cannot fail to be interesting. 

In the month of May, 1810, a number of artists and amateurs 
associated together at Philadelphia, and announced their inten- 
tion of forming this institution, fiom a conviction that it was re- 
quisite, and with a view of collecting into a focus the various talents 
and resources of artis-ts, and thereby stamping a character upon 
the fine arts in America. 

At a meeting of the Society, Mr. George Murray, one of the 
principal engravers in Philadelphia, who had borne a verj' active 
part in forming the society, delivered an address, a few extracts 
from which will more particularly show the principles and design of 
the institution. 

" The primary objects of the society," says Mr. Murray, " are 
to establish schools in all the various branches of the fine arts, and 
a public exhibition of the productions of American artists ; to im- 
prove the public taste; to raise a fund for the relief of decayed 
members ; to examine with impartiality in what true excellency 
consists, and to render as simple as possible the means of 
acquiring a knowledge of the arts ; but, above all, to endeavour 
to remove existing prejudices, and to give a character to the fine 
arts in the United States. 

" An opinion has prevailed, and in some degree exists at pre- 
sent, that this country is too young to foster the arts, and that our 

36 



2S2 



TRAVELS IN 



form of government is not very favourable to promote them ; that 
there are not sufficient materials to enable the student to pursue his 
studies to advantage; and that there is neither taste to appreciate 
merit, nor a disposition to reward it. 

" These opinions have been promulgated without due examina- 
tion. We possess a vast extent of territory, and variety of cli- 
mate ; affording not only all the comforts and conveniencies, but 
nearly all the luxuries of life. Chains of mountains, of amazing 
extent, run nearly parallel with the coast, and are intersected at 
many places with. magnificent rivers, forming a vast vai'iety of the 
most sublime and picturesque scenery in the world ; and these be- 
ing diversified with populous cities, towns, villages, and elegant 
mansions, aflbrd an infinite source of materials for the landscape 
painter. 

" The rapid increase of population and of wealth, and the ap- 
plication of the latter to promote the improvement of our cities and 
public works, calls forth the talents of the architect, and insures a 
reward for his exertions. 

" To commemorate the American revolution, and to place in a 
conspicuous point of view those patriots and heroes, who fought 
and bled in their country's cause, belong equally to the painter, the 
sculptor, and the engraver. 

" The prosperity, and even existence of a republic, depends 
upon an ardent love of Hberty and virtue; and the fine arts, when 
properly directed, have a tendency, in a very eminent degree, to 
promote both. 

" The encouragement given to engraving within these few years, 
and the great improvement of that branch of the arts, is a convinc- 
ing proof that the American people are far from being destitute of 
taste Many works have lately issued from the American press, 
embellished with engravings equal, and some of them superior, to 
those of the same kind in Europe.* In particular, the American 

* As a proof of the advanced state of this branch of the fine arts, and its application to 
important commercial purposes, it may not be improper to notice, that an institution has 
lately been established at Philadelphia, for engraving and printing bank notes, and other 
important papers, ^ith a view to render them more diificult of imitation. Tliis esta- 
l)Iishment consists of an association of artists, of the lirst talents in the various parts of 
©inamental and writing engraving ; and is carried on under the firm of Murray, Draper, 
Fairman, & Co. In the ornanieatal part of the notes, they make use of steel dies, ex- 
ecuted with great mechanical accuracy, with which an impression, singularly beautiful, 



PENNSYLVANIA 

Ornithology, by Alexander Wilson,, challenges a competition 
with any work of the kind that has ever appeared ; and has receiv- 
ed the stamp of approbation from the best judges in Europe. The 
splendid success of that work in America, speaks volumes in fa- 
vour of American taste. 

" As the United States possess a most beautiful system of equal 
laws, and hold out the right hand of fellowship to all the friends of 
rational freedom, they afford a safe retreat to such as may be forced 
from their native land, by the jealousy or tyranny of old govern- 
ments; and that bring along with them the arts and sciences, 
in return for the boon of protection which they receive in this hap- 
py country, which may be termed the strong hold of liberty, 

" The Society of Artists, looking up to tlieir fellow-citizens for 
countenance and support, are determined individually, and as a 
bod}', to use every exertion to promote the prosperity, glory, and 
independence of their country." 

A constitution was drawn up and signed by about 60 members, 
and the society being invited to hold their meetings in the Pennsyl- 
vania Academy, this was accepted, and was found to be of o-reat 
utility to the infant institution. 

In the course of six months, the society consisted of upwards 
of 100 members, when it was resolved to divide the artists into two 
classes, denominated " Fellows of the society," and " Associate 
Artists ;" and the general management was vested in a president* 
four vice-presidents, a secretary, and treasurer. Ths vice-presi- 
dents to be artists of the class of fellows, and to be chosen one 
each from the following branches of the arts : painting, sculpture* 
architecture, and engraving. 

is stamped upon the copper-plates. The notes engraved by the company are greatly ad- 
mired for the beauty and elegance of tlie workmanship, and far surpass any thino- 1 have 
ever seen in Europe. The institution has been in operation about two years, and has 
executed engravings for 42 banks, none of wliiclj have been counterfeited. Indeed, it 
appears to me, that there is no chance of any attempt being made to counterfeit their 
notes ; for no attempt could bo successful, unless executed by a combination of talent, 
equal to what has been called into operation liy this society ; and wliere that esists we 
may safely conclude tliat it will find a more honourable and a more profitable emplov- 
ment in America, than counterfeiting bank notes. 

Tlie company have also devised a plan for the ornamental parts of sliips' papers, 
which has been submitted to the general government, and will probably be adopted ; in 
which case it will guard the American flag ag.^inst prostitution, to the great joy, no 
doubt, of the fraternity who are employed in London, Liverpool and elsewhere, m the 
>ery honourable trade of " simulutinn" shipt' papers. 



2S4 



TRAVELS IN 



An attempt was made to unite witli the Academi/ of Fine Aiis, 
so as to form but one society, but owing to some particular cir- 
cumstances it did not succeed ; and an arrangement was entered 
into otherwise, which will probably be ccjually beneficial in promot- 
ing the objects of both. 

In January, 1811, the president of the United States was re- 
quested to accept the title of patron, which he complied with, 
highly approving of the principles of the institution, and offering 
it all the aid in his power. 

On the 6th of May, the first annual exhibition was opened to 
the public, and consisted of more than 500 articles, above half 
of which were the production of American artists. The vast con- 
course of visitors, who thronged to see the exhibition, formed a 
striking proof of its utility, and of the estimation in wliich it was 
held by tiie public. The receipts, during the six weeks that it 
was kept open, amounted to 1860 dollars; and the receipts of 
another week having been appropriated to the relief of the suffer- 
ers by fire in Newburyport, amounted to 4 10 dollars. 

When I visited the exhibition, I was quite surprised to find the 
arts in America in such a forward state. A great number of the 
paintings, both portrait and landscape, were equal to any thing 1 
had ever .seen ia Europe; and the designs in architecture had a 
neatness and elegance, which indicated a very correct public taste. 
There were a number of models of elegant workmanship; and 
the exhibition of prints bore ample testimony to the advanced stale 
of enfTravin"^. Connected with this branch is that of drawinjj 
maps, of which an elegant specimen was in the exhibition ; and 
Philadelphia can boast an artist in this line, probably inferior to 
.none in the yvorld. 

Iv.as highly gratified to see the number and respectability of 
the visitors; particularly of the ladies, whose approbation and 
applause was no small proof of the value of the institution, and^ 
must have been highly gratifying to the artists. Every person, who 
is acquainted vvitii human nature, must be aware of the influence 
of intelligent women in polished society. I have never yet seen 
any object fail which met with their approbation and support ; 
and their approbation and support, on this occasion, was to me a 
convincing proof both of the utility and stability of the society. 
The terms of admissi.n are 5 dollars of entry, and 4 dollars of 



PENNSYLVANIA. 28 J 

annual subscription, until 50 dollars be paid in all ; after which 
the members are free for life. 

If any thing is wanted to complete this institution, I should 
think it is a library. A small additional sum from each of the mem- 
bers annually would secure that object ; and it is very probable 
that it would meet with public encouragement by many donations 
of books from patriotic individuals, who wish well to the improve- 
ment of the mind among a class of people so useful in society as 
artists. 

I should imagine, too, that from the peculiar principles of the 
association, they would merit the notice of the legislature of a 
republican commonwealth. The society, from its nature, must be 
purely republican. Operative artists are nearly all on an equal foot- 
ing, and being, to use tlieir own expression, " the bees that make 
the honey," their combined power must be very considerable. 
Few of them, however, being rich, this power must be chiefly 
confined to the forwarding of the objects laid down in their institu- 
tion. These they can manage with propriety ; but to accommodate 
themselves with appropriate buildings is probably beyond their 
power : hence, they must be in some measure dependent. A small 
dejiree of leirislative aid mioht relieve them from this inconveni- 
ence, and 1 have no doubt that the, legislature of Pennsylvania 
would, if properly applied to, readily atibrd it to a society who 
descx've so well of their country. 

Mr. Latrobc being detained longer than was expected, I was 
obliged to set out for Washington alone ; but he favoured me 
with a letter of intrmluction, which answered every purpose. 

On the 28th of May, I took my passage on board the New- 
castle packet, and we set sail at 8 o'clock in the morning, with a 
very light wind. On getting round Gloucester Point, the breeze 
increased, but it was almost right ahead, and we had to tack 
from side to side all the way down, which afforded us a fine view 
of the banks of the Delaware, and, the country being in full ver- 
dure, they exhibited a very fine api^arance. We reached New- 
castle at 5 o'clock, and immediately got into a stago to cross the 
country. The stage took a different road from that I had travel- 
led before. The country was low, but the soil was more rich and 
better improved. In our way, we passed a good many hedges of 
hawthorn, which were in a most luxuriant state, and gave the* 
fields a ficsh, verdant appearance. We arrived at Frenchto\^n at 



2S6 TRAVELS IN 

9 o'clock, and immediately went on board the packet; but the 
wind and tide weie both against us, and we lay all night at the 
wharf. 

May 29, wc had a thunder-gust during the night, and the wind 
shifted to the north-west, so that at 2 o'clock in the morning we 
set sail with a fair wind, and by the time I rose, at 6 o'clock, we 
were nearly half way to Baltimore. The wind increased, and, as 
the packet sailed very fast, we reached Baltimore a little past 9 
o'clock, in the morning. 

Baltimore had increased very much since my last visit : the in- 
habitants now amounted to 35,583. 

On the 30th, at 6 o'clock in the morning, I set out for Washing- 
ton by the mail stage. I observed no material difference in the 
country since I travelled through it before, but found that the 
road was much improved, and it will soon be in a very good state. 
We arrived at Washington at 1 o'clock. My transactions there 
shall be narrated in the next chapter. 



CHAPTER LXI. 

Intervie-jo voith Mr. Gallatin, — "joith the President, — Return to 

New York. 

J^OON after my arrival in Washington, I waited on ray friend 
mentioned in my former visit. I found he had left the treasury 
department, and had become a merchant. He was equally atten- 
tive as before. I intimated the object of my journey, and, to 
facilitate it, he introduced me to a gentleman who was acquaint- 
ed with the secretary of the treasury. This gentleman introduced 
me to Mr. Gallatin, to whom I delivered my letter of introduc- 
tion, and, after some general conversation, it was agreed that I 
should wait upon him next morning at 9 o'clock. 

As I knew that Mr. Gallatin was an accurate man of business, 
I considered that it would be proper to commit the substance of 
my inquiries to paper, and, on my return to my lodgings, I drew 
up the following queries. 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



287 



Preliminary Inquiries before setting out on a Tour to the Western 

Country. 

1st. What are the particular situations in the United States which 

combine the greatest number of advantages to new settlers ? 
2d. Who hold large tracts of unsettled land, in good situations? 
It is presumed the most advantageous terms can be made with 
such, because every new settler has a tendency to confer value 
upon the adjoining lands. 
3d. What is the price of land generally, cleared and uncleared; 
and the climate, as to the heat of summer and cold of winter ? 
It is to be observed that a temperate climate is deemed the best, 
^th. What are the local circumstances attending the diderent situ- 
ations that may come under review ? Are they best calculated 
for raising stock or grain ? It is presumed that one favourable 
for both would answer best. 
5th. Where do those tracts of land lie, that are composed partly 
of woodland, and partly of prairie? It appears that meadow 
lands would suit best for tillage and grazing, while wood is in- 
dispensably necessary for fuel, for fences, for houses, for furni- 
ture, and other purposes. 
Gth. What situations are most favourable for minerals, particular- 
ly coal, iron, and limestone ? 
7th. Wliat is the degree of facility, by water communication ; and 

by roads and canals, already existing or projected ? 
8th. What are the best maps, geographies, gazetteers, and books 
of travels in the United States ? 

May. 31. I waited on Mr. Gallatin, at his own bouse, ac- 
cording to appointment, when he gave me ample information on 
the greater part of the preceding inquiries, and invited me to 
meet him at his office for further details regarding the United 
States' lands. On waiting on him there, he exhibited all the 
surveys, and on a small map of the western country, in my pos- 
session, marked out the different land districts belonging to the 
government of the United States. 

I was highly gratified by Mr. Gallatin's attention, and much 
edified by his valuable information, which was my principal guide 
in fixing on my route, to be afterwards noticed. In the after 
part of the day 1 made sorae additional inquiries, in consequence 



288 TRAVELS IN 

of the information received from Mr. Gallatin, and afterwards 
went to see a friend in Georgetown. 

June 1. Having finished my more immediate business at 
Washington, I went this day to pay my respects to the president. 
Mr. Madison, like his predecessor, required no introduction ; but 
he was already acquainted with me by name. He received me 
very politely in a drawing-room, and we had a long conversation, 
principally regarding the relations between Britain and America. 
Mr. Madison observed, that he would have gone to the country 
before this time, but was waiting for Mr. Foster, now daily ex- 
pected ; and he sincerely hoped that on his arrival something 
would be done to acconnnodate the differences between the two 
countries. He remarked that he was happy to observe the favour- 
able disposition of the prince of Wales towards neutral trade ; 
and it was a considerable ground of hope, that he was so popular 
in his own country. He had done nothing as yet, but it appear- 
ed that he had hitherto sacrificed his own opinion to his filial re- 
gard for his father ; and this circumstance, though it militated a- 
gainst a free trade between England and America now, yet it was 
in favour of the prince's . personal character; and he thought 
there could hardly be a doubt but he would change the ministry 
and restore a free trade, when he succeeded to full power. 

On the stopping of the trade itself, he remarked that, the im- 
morality and injustice of the measure out of the question, it had 
always astonished him that the British ministry should persevere 
in a system so evidently impolitic, and which militated more a- 
gainst the interest of England than any other nation ; and it could 
not be from ignorance, for the operation and tendency of the 
orders in council had been very amply exposed in England, par- 
ticularly in Mr. Baring's pamphlet, and Mr. Brougham's speech; 
both masterly productions, and which placed the question between 
the two countries in as clear a point of view as words could con- 
vey it. He observed that the effect of the orders in council were 
very injurious in this country', as they tended to distress the sea- 
ports, and to divide the people ; and there was now no alterna- 
tive but to sacrifice the national honour, or to resist. Resistance 
had been determined on by congress, and would in all probability 
be persevered in till justice was obtained; nor did he believe that 
any supposed opposition in the eastern states would now have 
any effect in altering that determination, it being well known that 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 289 

mass of the people in these states were determined repuWicans; 
and, notwithstanding the difference of opinion on commercial sub- 
jects, he was well assured that in the day of trial they would 
stand as firmly by their own government as any section in the 
union. 

He regretted that a number of the merchants did not take a 
more extended view of the subject, and prefer their permanent 
interests to a precarious and temporary interest, liable to be cut 
off every day. It was evident that, independent of the principle 
which the orders in council involed, that during their opei'ation, 
the trade must necessarily be very limited, and subject to great 
contingencies ; and without a free trade to the continent, there 
could be no free trade from England ; so that, although the govern- 
ment were even to sacrifice the national honour, and allow the 
merchants to regulate the commerce of the country, the trade 
would soon cease of itself. Goods could only be imported to the 
extent of the exports, and these being confined to England, and 
her dependencies and allies, it must necessarily be so limited, that 
many of the merchants would be in a losing concern, and domes- 
tic manufactures would ultimately supersede foreign commerce. 

On the subject of manufactures he observed that they had pro- 
gressed in a wonderful degree, and Avent far to supply the internal 
demand, which was one great and permanent good that had arisen 
out of a system fraught with many evils : and so firmly were these 
manufactures now rooted that they would unquestionably flourish 
and increase. On the other hand, such had been the increase of 
population and wealth in the United States, that there would still 
be a very great demand for British manufactures, were the trade o- 
pened. Mr. Baring had pointed out in his pamphlet that the ex- 
ports from Britain to America amounted to 12,000,000 sterlino- 
and he had no doubt but they would continue to be equal to that 
amount if the trade were free: and this consideration alone mif^ht 
have induced the British ministy to cultivate a friendly intercourse 
with a nation who were disposed to be friends, in place of seekinf*- 
a precarious commerce by means of special licenses with their e- 
neniies. 

The conversation lasted nearly an hour, and embraced several 
other topics, but diesc are the most material; and I left Mr. Ma- 
dison with sentiments of friendly regard and high esteem. 

Washington citv, and the district of Columbia gencnilly, hsd 



*^^ TRAVELS IN 

mucli improvcc] since I was here before; but the improvements i 
wade the most prominent appearance in Georgetown and Alex- * 
andiia, whicli are compact handsome towns. The city is laid out 
on qmte too large a scale to be either comfortable or handsome. 
Indeed I am reluctantly led to regret that the seat of government of 
the United States was fixed here at all. The soil is sterile around 
It, and every article of the necessaries of life is extravagantly high. 
Thechmate was noticed in page 152, accompanied with some re- 
marks concerning the marsh effluvia of the low country, which mv 
present observations tended to confirm. A strong south-east wind 
was blowmg this day, which had a sensible effect on my health ; and 
many others whom I saw, and a sea captain, well acquainted with 
the Mediterranean, said it had all the characteristics of a Siroc 
wind. 

There are thousands of situations in the United States equally 
central and^convenient for the seat of the general government ; and 
had the district of Columbia been situated in a fertile soil and fine 
climate, such are the advantages arising from die circumstance of 
Its being the seat of government, that it would in all probability by 
this time have abounded with population and wealth, and have been 
the nursery of the sciences, of classical education, of literature, and 
of all the other arts that exalt and embellish human life. As it is, so- 
ciety has made very considerable progress within these last 10 years. 
The population of the district of Columbia is now as follows: 

Washington city g gQg 

Georgetown ^\^^^ 

Washington county, exclusive of the city and Georgetown 2^315 
Alexandria - ^^^ 

Alexandria county, exclusive of the toun ] 395 



24,C23 



Having now completed my arrangements here to my entire satis- 
faction, I vvas anxious to lose no time in commencing on mv western 
tour; I accordingly set out on my return, on the 2d of June, at 8 
o'clock in the morning, and arrived at Baltimore at 3 o'clock in the 
afternoon, wliere I stopped all night. 

On the 3d of June 1 set out frcm Ealtimore by the Pilot stage, rt 
S o'clock in the morning. The country was thinly settled, and the 
road very rough all the way to Havre- de-grace, at the mouth of the 



NEW YORK. 291 

Susqueliannah, where wc crossed by a ferry, upwards of a mile 
wide. Havre-de-grace is built on a beautiful plain ; but it is sub- 
ject to fever and ague, and is not thriving. The banks of the ri- 
ver to the northward are romantic and beautiful. The country im- 
proves towards Philadelphia, and the road passes through Wilming- 
ton, a fine thriving town, formerly noticed. We arrived in Phila- 
delphia at 7 o'clock, having travelled 103 miles in 16 hours ; which 
was great despatch, when we consider the nature of the road. Next 
day I set out for New York by the steam-boat, and I arrived the 
day following, v/ithout meeting with any material adventure 



CHAPTER LXII. 

Netv York, — Rariton river, — Delctjoare river, — Philadelphia. 

ilAYlNG a fjood deal of business to arrange before I could set 
out on my journe}', I was detained on Long Island till the begin- 
ning of August, and I devoted part of my time to digest my plan 
of travels as follows: 

THE ROUTE. 

To Philadelphia — Cross the mountains to Pittsbui'g — Sail down 
the Ohio to the falls — Cross through Kentucky by Lexington to 
Limestone — Cross the Ohio, and pass through the state of Ohio, 
by Zanesville, to the mouth of Cayhoga river, on Lake Erie — Tra- 
vel alon^y the banks of Lake Erie to its east end — Travel along the 
banks of the Niagara river to the falls, and thence to Lake Ontario 
— Travel from thence to Batavia — and return to New York in any 
way that circumstances may direct. 

In fixing upon my route, one principal object was kept in view, 
namely, to take the several land-offices of the United States, and 
that of the Holland company, in my way. 

INQUIRIES TO BE MADE DURING THE JOURNEY, 

1st. As to the aspect of the countr}^, soil, stratum under the soil, 

and minerals. 
2d. As to lakes, rivers, creeks, springs, mineral 'springs, and swamps. 
3d. As to natural timber, vegetable substances, plants, and herbs. 
4th. As to climate, seasons, health, and appearance of the inhabitants. 
5th. As to beasts, birds, reptiles, insects, and fishes. 



292 TRAVELS IN 

6th. As to commencement of settlement, inhabitants where from, 
manners and customs, occupations, religious and political opi- 
nions, education and science, civil jurisprudence. 

7th. As to cities, villages, fai-m-houses, and style of building. 

8th. As to agriculture, mechanics, manufactures, and commerce. 

9th. As to road«!, bridges, canals, travelling accommodation and 
charges. 

10th. As to value of land^of stock — of labour — of provisions — of 
materials for building and manufacturing. 

11th. As to what classes are best adapted to the country. 

12th As to what manufactures can be established to the ffreatest ad- 



INQUIRIES TO BE MADE IN TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 

1st. As to the date of settlement. 

2d. As to number of houses and inhabitants. 

3d. As to size and quality of the buildings. 

4th. Asto public buildings'. 

5th. As to taverns and stores. 

6th. As to size and price of lots. 

7th. As to house rent, prices of fuel and provisions. 

8th. As to profes.sions exercised and manufactures established. 

9th. As to whether there be an opening for any of these, or any other. 

Having all. my arrangements completed, I set out from Long 
Island on the 6th of August, 1811, and lodged in New York all 
night at tlie house of a friend. 

August 7th, I took my passage by tlic steam-boat, and at five 
minutes past seven the boat started from the wharf, with upwards 
of 70 passengers. This is one of the most useful establishments 
thnt has ever been attempted in America, and is remarkably well 
calculated for the American waters, many of which are of great mag- 
nitude. The patentees deserve great credit for their exertions ; they 
have spared no expense to render the works complete ; and so well 
are the boats managed, that a person can travel often from 100 to 
200 miles in 24- hours, and have as comfortable boarding and lodg- 
in<T all the way as he could have in the best tavern in New York. 
The preference which is given to these boats above every other con- 
veyance is a proof of their utility ; and the chance is that they will 
become universal through the country. There are now five on the 
Nortli river, one on the Rariton, one on tlie Delav/are, one on Lake 
Cliamplain, and one is building at Pittsburg. 



NEW JERSEY. 293 

We passed the several fortifications in the harbour, which were 
all in a state of j^reat forwardness. One of them, Castle Williams, 
is said to be one of the best constructed forts in the world, and quite 
impregnable. The United States frigate and Argus gun-brig were 
lying at anchor in the bay. 

At eight o'clock we reached Staten Island, and took the passage 
betwixt it and new Jersey, called the Kills, where the tide runs with 
great velocity. We passed sevei'al fishing vessels, and many small 
traders ; and at nine o'clock were opposite to Newark bay, v/here 
we had a fine viev/ up the country. To the west of this is EHzabeth- 
town point, well known in the history of the American war; and 
Viere the remains of the fortifications are still to be seen. At 12 
o'clock we reached Amboy. 

The whole length of the channel between Staten Island and New- 
Jersey is 24; miles, and its average breadth about 800 yards. It is 
navigable for small craft only, being in some places not more than 
three feet deep at low water. It abounds with fish, and has valua- 
ble fisheries of shad, herrings, drum, black-fish, clams, and oysters, 
Amboy is a small place, containing 815 inhabitants. It is pret- 
tily situated, and is a place of considerable resort in the summer 
season, as sea-bathing quarters. An elegant hotel and boarding- 
house is situated on the height above the tov.'n, which must com- 
mand a very extensive and variegated view of the country. 

We now entered Rariton river, a slow muddy stream ; but con- 
taining a good supply of fish. There are large salt meadows on its 
banks ; but the land appears poor, and the croj)s very scant, until 
within a few miles of Brunswick, where the soil improves. The ri- 
ver contracts here, and the banks are steep and rocky. 
Brunswick is in a thriving state. 

Here we had to travel over land to Bordentown, 33 miles, and 
our company being pretty numerous, we filled three public stages 
besides some private carriages. We travelled by the new turnpike 
road, which is not much settled; but the timber denotes good land : 
and such is the advantage of the public road, that it will probably 
be all settled up in the course of a few years. 

At Princeton, 16 miles from Brunswick, there is an elegant 
view, and the country is rich and well iinpi'oved, which continues 
to be the case 1 1 miles, to Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, con- 
taining 3000 inhabitants. Here w^elcft the post road and travelled 
b}' .1 very i\)ugh pati: to Bordentown. Day-light failed us, and 



294f TRAVELS IN 

being pretty much fatigued, I fell asleep. I heard a confused noise 
in my sleep, and, starting up, I felt a motion as it I had been flying; 
but I had not a moment to consider what it might be, — the stage 
fell down upon its broad-side with a crash, and I found myself and 
eleven more floundering like so many fishes in a net. Luckily there 
was nobody materially hurt. An old woman who was sitting next 
to me complahied of being bruised a little ; and some of the gen- 
tlemen had got their faces somewhat scratched. I met with no o- 
thcr injury than a slight sprain in my arm. 

This accident arose in consequence of the driver getting drunk, 
and in his frolic trying to pass one of the other stages ; but he 
paid dearly for his folly, for two of his teeth were knocked out by 
the fall : and one of the j^roprietors being along with us, he turned 
him off on the spot, and taking the reins himself, drove us to Bor- 
dentown, where we stopped all night. 

Bordentown is a handsome little place, situated on a height above 
the Delaware, from whence there is one of the finest views I have 
ever seen. Our accommodations here were very good, and the 
charfjes reasonable.* 

August 8th. The steam-boat started at 7 o'clock, and continu- 
ed her course towards Philadelphia, at the rate of seven miles an 
hour. The river is very beautiful, and the land on each side ap- 
pears fertile, and is well improved. At half past eight o'clock we 
reached Bristol, a thriving little town, on the north bank, for- 
merly noticed ; and nearly opposite, on the Jersey side, is Burling- 
ton, also a thriving little town. The steam-boat stops at both 
places for the accommodation of passengers, but the delay is not 
great. From Burlington to Philadelphia is 20 miles, and the view 
is handsome all the way. Near Philadelphia, a friend pointed out 
the situation on the bank of the river called Point-no-i^oiiit, alluded 
to by Thomas Paine in his answer to Mr. Burke. At half past 12 we 
reached the city of Philadelphia. Our company during the passage 
were very agreeable. 

Immediately on my arrival I called at the Pittsburg stage-office, 
and learning that the stage was to start next morning at four o'clock, 
I secured my seat, and spent the evening with my friends. 

• For a table of the expenses on this journey, and a regiiiter of the weather, see Ap - 
pendix, Nos. 1 and 2. 



PENNSYLVANIA. S95 



CHAPTER Lxnr. 

PJiiladelpJiia^ — Lancaster, — Harrisburg — S/iipj^enliirg, 
— Chamhersburg. 

August 9th. At 4 o'clock in the morning the stage started. 
The morning was foggy and cool, the thermometer being about 
63°. The stage was a roomy vehicle, capable of containing 12 
persons, but there were only three or four passengers, besides my- 
self. The horses were noble looking animals, the best I had yet 
seen in the United States ; and I learned tliat Pennsylvania had a 
very fine breed, and we would have such horses all the way to 
Piitsburg. 

From Philadelphia to the Buck tavern, 10 miles to the westward, 
the country is agreeably uneven, and well wooded ; and the soil 
pretty fertile. It abounds with small streams, which, I imagine, 
would be very favourable for the erection of manufactories. The 
natural timber is principally oak, chesnut, and hickory. It is a 
good country for grazing, and raises grain and vegetables in abun- 
dance. The lands are all taken up and improved ; the price is from 
70 to 120 dollars per acre. 

We travelled 10 miles, through a country nearly similar, when 
the road descended, by a turning, into a very rich valley, which 
presents a most animated prospect. Here we saw rich fields, sub- 
stantial farm-houses, fine flocks and herds, and the whole face of 
nature smiling around us. The view is terminated, to the north, 
by pretty lofty hills. The houses here are mostly built of stone, 
and we were told the inhabitants were principally quakers, and of 
German extraction. 

Our road continued through this valley, 10 miles, to Downings- 
tovvn, where we crossed the east branch of the Brandywino creek, 
here a handsome little stream, and soon after we ascended Gap 
Plill. This is a high tract of country, the lands rather barren ; it 
was originally settled by emigrants from Ireland. The value of 
land is from 25 to 40 dollars. We travelled about nine miles 
along this high land, when we descended, crossed the west branch 
of the Brandy wine creek, and entered a fine champaign country, 
with a limestone bottom. 

This country is elegantly improved, and Is very fcrti'e, produc- 



296 TRAVELS IN 

ing a great variety of grain, particularly wheat, from which flour 
is manufactured for sale to a great extent annually. This tract is 
very extensive, and is one of the best settled in the United States, 
The farnis are every where well cultivated, and the people appear- 
ed to be in prosperous circumstances. They are said to be mostly 
of German descent. The price of land here is from 75 to 130 dol- 
lars per acre, increasing as you approach Lancaster. 

We reached Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the evening, and only stop- 
ped to change horses ; so that I could see but little of the town. 
Indeed, my original plan was not to make any minute inquiry, un- 
til 1 should reach Pittsburg. 

Lat^castkh is situated in a fertile plain, 62 miles to the westward 
of Philadelphia. It is built on a regular plan, the streets crossing 
one another at right angles. The houses are mostly constructed of 
brick, but some few are of stone. The inhabitants amount to 5405, 
and are mostly of German origin. The public buildings are seven 
places for public worsliip, a court-house, jail, and market-house ; 
and there is a poor-house, a very humane institution, situated on 
the Conestoga creek, a mile from the town. The principal manu- 
factures are fire-arms, particularly rifle-barrelled guns ; and there 
are several tan yards, distilleries, and breweries. 

This is, at present, the seat of government for Pensylvania, but, 
by a late act of the legislature, it is to be removed to Harrisburg ; 
and 39,000 dollars have been appropriated to erect public buildings 
there. 

We left Lancaster at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, and travelled by 
a good road, 18 miles, to Eiizabethtown, where we stopped all 
nicrht. The soil continues good, upon a limestone bottom, all the 
way to this place. In our journey we had a very fine view of the 
hifrh lands to the south-west. Eiizabethtown consists of 30 or 40 
houses, mostly built of wood. 

Auf^ust loth. The stage started this morning at half past 3 
o'clock, and was full of passengers. The morning was damp ami 
foggy. The thermometer stood at 65". A little after leaviiv,-- 
Middleton, we crossed through the Conewago hills, the soil po. v 
the country rough, and the road very bad. Four miles from 
Eiizabethtown, we passed ConeN\'ago creek; and four miles fur- 
ther, we passed the Swatawra creek, and reached Middleton : a 
small place, consisting of about 100 houses, mostly constructed of 
logs. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 237 

We ^'ere now on the banks of the noble Sasquchaunah river, 
along which we had a very agreeable ride, by a good road, to 
Harrisburg. The view is said to be beautiful, but it was obsCiired 
by the fog; and I was sorry to find that the iilhabitants had been 
a little afflicted with fever and ague. This disease is very common 
on the American rivers, before the country is settled and drained. 
On this river, it is most common on the east side; fi circumstance 
easily accounted for, by reflecting that the most prevalent winds 
are from the south-west, which naturally blow the marsh effluvia, 
that collects on the margin of the river, to the eastward. This 
disease will be of no long duration on the Susquehannah. The 
country is uneven on its surface, and has a limestone bottom ; and 
it is settling up very fast, so that in a short time it must be cleared 
and drained, and all sickness of this kind will disappear. 

Harrisburg is situated on the east branch of the Susquelian- 
nah, 97 miles from Philadelphia. It is handsomely laid out on 
the plan of Philadelphia, having four streets running parallel with 
the river, named Front, Second, and so on ; and these are cross- 
ed by others at right angles, called INIulberry, Chesnut, -^Market, 
Walnut, Locust, and Pine. The houses are mostly built of brick, 
and have a good appearance, and the town is rapidly encreasing, 
particularly since the act of legislature constituting it the seat of 
government for the state. The inhabitants of the township a-; 
mount to 2287. There is an elegant court-house and stone jail 
built, and the public buildings for the accommodation of the state 
government, now erecting, will be the most elegant structures in 
the state. Harrisburg was laid out in 1785, and has made pro- 
gress ever since ; and from its commanding and central situation, 
it will, in all probability, become one of the largest inland towns 
in America. We were informed that some lots were lately sold 
here for 2000 dollars ; and land sells in the neighbourhood for 
from 80 to 100 dollars per acre. 

After breakfast we crossed the Susquehannah river in aflat boat, 
poled by four men. The river is here nearly a mile wide, and 
was, when we crossed it, from three to five feet deep, with a pretty 
rough gravelly bottom ; the current was swift, and the water pure. 

I was informed that we were now between two ranges of hills, 
called the North and South Mountains, but the day continued so 
foggy that I could not perceive them. The country immcdiati?Iy 

38 



<!; 



298 TRAVELS IN 

round us was fertile, and well cultivated ; and the climate was said 
to be quite liealthy on this side of the river. 

We travelled 15 miles to Carlisle, in the neighbourhood of 
which land sells for from 70 to 120 dollars per acre, and the 
country is well settled and improved ; a considerable part of the 
produce here h hemp. 

Carlisle is situated on a large plain, having somewhat the ap- 
pearance of Lancaster. It is regularly laid out, with streets cros- 
sing one another at right angles; and contains by the last census 
2,491 inhabitants. The houses are partly built of brick and partly 
of wood, and have a very respectable ajipearance. The public 
buildings are, a college, a court-house, jail, and five places for 
public worshi]!. The college is named Dickenson, in honour of a 
gentleman of that name, who was it founder, and is esteemed an 
excellent seminary of learning. Its funds are about 10,000 dol- 
lars in certificates, and the state made a grant in support of it, of 
10,000 acres of land. A philosophical apparatus, and library, 
consisting of nearly 3000 volumes, are attached to it. Dr. Nesbit, 
a Scots gentleman of high estimation, was several years presi- 
dent of this college ; but he died some years ago. I learned that 
Mr. Thomas Cooper, the friend and correspondent of the late 
Dr. Priestley, was to be appointed one of the professors; and from 
his well-known scientific abilities and industry, I have no doubt 
but he will be a great acquisition. There are a principal and three 
professors, and the students amount to above one hundred. 

After leaving Carlisle the day cleared up a little, and we had 
a partial view of the mountains. The valley is about 13 or 1 4 
miles broad, is very fertile, and abounds with beautiful vievrsp. 
Wc passed several small streams, which I was told run into twQ 
creeks, between which we travelled, the one called Conedogwinet, 
the other Yellow Breeches. The one rises in the North, the other 
in the South Mountains, and both run a north-east course to the 
Susquehannah, and are very useful, as well as ornamental, to 
this charming valley. Nine miles from Carlisle we stopped for 
dinner, near the foot of the South Mountains, of which we had 
a beautiful view ; and our view was equally pleasing in the interior 
of the house, where were a number of fine young damsels, whose 
rosy checks I considered an indication of a healthy country. 

From hence we travelled 10 miles to Shippensburg; the country 
Is nearly the same as already mentioned, but in many places th0 



PENNSYLVANIA.. 299 

limestone jutted out of the road, and rendered our travelling very 
rough. Near Shippensburg we passed some pine trees, the first I 
had seen since I left Philadelphia, but the tract was of no great 
extent. In the neighbourhood of Shippensburg the land is good, 
and sells for about 50 dollars per acre. Wood land is considered 
the most valuable. Shippensburg is but a small place. The whole 
township, by last census, contained only 1159 inhabitants; but it 
is thriving, and they ai'e establishing manufactories, particularly 
of cotton, of which the carriage is only half a cent per pound from 
Baltimore. There are a variety of churches, and schools are 
plenty ; the expence of tuition is about two dollars per quarter. 

The limestome bottom continues, and the soil and state of cul- 
tivation are nearly the same the next 1 1 miles to Chambersburg, 
where we stopped for the night. 



CHAPTER LXIV. 

Chambersburg, — M^Cotmelstoxvfi, — Bedford^ 
I HAD travelled a good part of the way thi'ough this valley with 
a Mr. Lindsay, one of the proprietors of the stage, to whom I was 
principally indebted for my information by the way, and, as I 
lodged at his house, I was able to make an important addition to 
my stock of knowledge regarding this part of the country. 

Chambersburg is the capital of Franklin county, and is situ- 
ated on the eastern branch of Conecocheague creek, in the middle 
of the valley between the North and South Mountains. It con- 
sists mostly of one long and pretty broad street, and contains 
nearly 2000 inhabitants. The buildings are partly of brick and 
partly of wood ; but brick buildings are now the most commoti, 
and there are some of stone. The public buildings are a court- 
house, jail, and three er four places for public worship. The 
schools are numerous, and education is from two to five dollars 
per quarter. There are numerous manufactories in this place and 
its neighbourhood, particularly on Conecocheague creek, which 
drives two grist-mills, two paper-mills, two oil-mills, and one ful- 
ling-mill. There are several carding machines, and spinning jen- 
nies, and two stocking frames. The price of working a pair of 
stockings is about half a dollar. There are three weekly news- 
papei's published, besides one in the German language. 



SOO TRAVELS IN ^ 

This valley is considered ihe most important in America. It 
extends from the Hudson river south-west to Tennessee, and is of 
various breadths, from 12 to 25 miles. It is all on a bed of lime- 
stone, and is very fertile ; the northern part raising every sort of 
grain, with fruits and hemp; and towards the south, in addition 
to these, it raises cotton. It abounds with iron ore, and other 
minerals, and mineral springs. It is well watered with numerous 
important rivers, and a great number of flourishing towns are 
situated on it, of which the most important are, Carlisle, Ship- 
pensburg, Strasburg, Chanibersburg, Messersburg, and Green- 
castle, in Pennsylvania; Hagerstown, Williamsport, and Sharps- 
burg, in Maryland ; and Martinsburg, Winchester, Newmarket, 
Staunton, Fincastle, and Austinville, in Virginia. In that part 
of it situated in Pennsylvania, land sells for from 20 to 100 dol- 
kirs per acre ; horses 20 to 200 dollars ; cows about 20 dollars* 
The climate is excellent the whole length of the valle}'. There 
are few slaves in this place ; there are only 87 in Franklin county. 

I now began to get acquainted with some of my fellow-travellers. 
Two of them were from Philadelphia, bound to Bedford springs; 
one from Virginia, bound for Chilicothe ; and here we picked up 
a sort of a Frenchman, bound the Lord hwws vohither^ for it ap~ 
])eared he did not know himself. With this company the stage 
started from Chambersburg, on Sunday the 11th of August, at 
8 o'clock in the morning. By the post-office regulations the stages 
are not required to travel here on Sunday, but they must carry 
the mail from Philadelphia to Pittsburg in six ordinary days ; so 
when the sabbath intervenes, they generally make a short journey 
to lighten those of the remaijiing days. W^e were to travel this 
day 22 miles to M'Connelstovvn. 

About a mile from Chambersburg we ascended a considerable 
hill, from whence we had a very extensive view of the valley and 
distant mountains. Nine miles from Chambersburg, near the 
foot of the mountains, we stopped to see a singular curiosity, 
which we were told was taken out of a cave in the North Moun- 
tain, about two miles dit>Lant. It was a stone exactly in the form 
of a lurtle, and little doubt remained on my mind but it was 
a petrifaction, though I had not time to make the necessary 
inquiries concerning il. Two miles from thence we stopped to 
change horses, at the foot of t'.e first mountain, at an elegant new 
brick house. The road winds round the foot of this mountain to 



^ PENNSYLVANIA. 301 

^here a fine valley opens to the noi-thw.ard, in wliich runs the 
the west branch of Conecocheague creek, which having crossed, we 
immediately began to ascend the North Mountain ; and now we 
prepared for a tough pull. For the first mile the ascent was easy, 
but after this it was very steep, and the road narrow and exces- 
sively rough. I was puzzled to find out how carriages could pass 
one another by the . way : but the mystery was solved as we went 
up the hill. Our driver kept sounding a horn, and we soon came 
to eight or nine waggons descending, which had all drawn aside 
at a place that had been made broader for that purpose. The cus- 
tom is for those in the ascending carriage to imitate their situation 
by sounding a horn ; and on hearing it, those descending must 
wait their appi'oach at the first place they can pass. The stage, 
or a single carriage, has seldom any great difficulty ; but when 
there are a number of waggons together, the difficulty is some- 
times very great. 

About a mile from the top of the mountain we came to a miser- 
able log-cabin, where the driver stopped to water his horses, and 
we stept into the house to get a little spirits and water. We found 
it kept by an old woman, with a son and two daughters. The 
situation is so romantic and lonely that it might suit a hermit; 
but this appeared to be no hermitage. Having rested a little, we 
pui*sued our journey to the mountain's top. 

On the top of the mountain there is a house kept by a re- 
spectable German family, and here we again stopped a short time. 
From hence we had a view of an amazing extent. To the east- 
ward we saw the fertile valley we had left, elegantly variegated 
with woods and cultivated fields, with towns and farm-houses, and 
roads and rivers ; and to the west we saw piles of mountains, with 
scenery among them elegantly variegated, as far as the eye could 
reach. We bade adieu to the plains ibr a time, and braced up 
our minds as well as our bodies, in expectation of meeting with 
many a shake and jolt, before we got from among the mountains ; 
and truly we had need, for we descended by a path of two miles 
and a half, so steep, and so rough, that it was often with difficul- 
ty we could sit in the carriage. On reaching the plain below, wc 
lodged at M'Connelstown, before mentioned. 

Our Frenchman and Virginian soon became acquainted, and, 
though it was the sabbath evening, they proposed to go a huntino- 
together ; but the landlord, to whom they had applied, put them 



S02 T«AVELS IN 

upon the wrong scent, and they returned without finding any game 
to their liking. 

M'CoNNELSTOWN Contains 80 or 90 houses, and about 500 in- 
habitants. The houses are built of wood, many of them of logs, 
but the town appears to be thriving. There are eight taverns and 
seven stores ; and several manufactories have been recently esta- 
blished, particularly a carding machine, some weaving, and hosi- 
ery. Flour sells for 7 dollars per barrel, beef at 4^ dollars, and 
other provisions in proportion. Baltimore is the nearest port, 
distant 100 miles. From hence to the Potomac river is about 25 
miles. 

Monday, August 12th, the stage started from M'Connelstown 
at half past 5 o'clock. The morning was clear, the thermometer 
stood at 69°. On leaving the town we ascended Scrub hill, and 
about a mile up we had a very extensive view of the country* 
which is rough, and thinly inhabited, but very healthy. Land 
sells at from from one to fifteen dollars per acre. After travelling 
about ten miles, we stopped to breakfast, and immediately as- 
cended Sidling hill. This chain, though not so large as the North 
Mountains, is yet very magnificent and lofty, and, by the road, 
is two miles from bottom to top. We walked a considerable way 
on the ascent, and, on the top, were rewarded by a most subhme 
view, but differing materially from that on the North mountains. 
We were now environed by mountains on all sides. In descend- 
ing this hill to the westward, we fell in with the Strasburg road, 
and near the same place the Baltimore road joins. This hill is 
about 1 800 feet high, and there are sevei-al taverns upon it- Con- 
nected with this is Ray's hill, on which we travelled about half 
a, mile, when we descended by a very steep and rough road, and, 
passing through an uneven country three miles, we reached the 
Juniata river. This a large branch of the Susquehannah, and 
was noticed in page 1 30. Here it is singularly romantic, having 
high, steep, and rugged banks, and it runs in a deep chasm on a 
bed of free-stone, the passage being remarkably serpentine. A 
chain bridge was building, but, not being finished, we passed by 
a flat boat. The piers of the bridge were erected, and are 24i 
feet high ; but the men were not at work, and I did not learn the 
dimensions of the other parts. 

Having crossed the Juniata, we ascended a considerable emi- 
nence, by a winding path, and travelled about a mile through pret- 



PENNSYLVANIA. 303 

ty well cultivated fields, to where we saw a most singular curiosity. 
The river makes a bend so remarkable that we could stand on a neck 
of land and pitch a stone over the bank, on each side; while the 
course of the viver round the bend is nearly five miles. The banks 
are very lofty, and clad from top to bottom with various kinds of 
trees and shrubbery* 

We travelled along the banks of this romantic river, almost con- 
stantly in sight of it, eight miles, when we passed a little village call- 
ed Bloody Run, in commemoration of the massacre of a body of mi- 
litia by the Indians, soon after Braddock's defeat. We passed a 
number of waggons in our progress, and sometimes with consider- 
able difficulty, for the road was often very narrow, and at one place 
proceeds along the banks of the river on the side of a hill by a pas- 
sage so terrific that I had some apprehensions for my personal safe- 
ty. We were told, indeed, that a waggon had been here overturi*- 
cd and destroyed, together with the driver and horses, some time 
before. 

The country becomes more and more romantic towards Bedford, 
six miles from which we passed betwixt the Warrior and Tussey's 
mountains. Here I was informed by one of the gentlemen from 
Philadelphia that he had been encamped near this place when the 
inilitia were called out in the time of Mr. Adams' administx'ation, 
to suppress the riots in this part of the country, emphatically called 
** the hot water war." The road continues very rough till withia 
a mile of Bedford, where we passed a handsome little sti'eam called 
Dunning's creek, by a bridge ; after which the road improves, and 
there are handsomely cultivated fields all the way to the town, 
which we reached at 5 o'clock. 

As Bedford had become a notable watering-place, we hired the 
driver to carry us to the springs, about half a mile distant. Here 
we found a vast concourse of people collected from different places, 
some of them very distant. The principal spring issues in great pro- 
fusion from a rock, and appears to be strongly impregnated with 
magnesia, and a little sulphur; so that it is unquestionably me- 
dicinal, and very good for some complaints : but from the mode in 
which it is used, it may admit of doubt whether it does most harm 
or good. It is indiscriminately used for every complaint; and is of- 
ten drank in such profusion as must assuredly tend to disorganize 
the stomach, and bring on a flatulency. I drank about a pint, 
*vhich I found to be " ciuantum snjf. ," but I was told, indeed I 



304" TRAVKLS IN 

found it printed in a book, that from two to thirty hali-pmts wa» i 
the usual quantity, an hour before breakfast ; and some drank fifty 
half pints. There is a bathing-house handsomely fitted up in the 
immediate neighbourhood of the spring, and is suppUed with water 
from it ; but I presume pure water would be equally efficacious for 
bathing. Adjoining the spring, in a hollow, is a large building fit- 
ted up as a boarding-house, where the charge is about five or six 
dollars per week. The situation is, upon the whole, very romantic, 
and truly delightful. 

On my return to the town I spent a very agreeable evening with 
Mr. Tod, a member of the state legislature, from whom I received 
a great deal of local information. 

Bedford is the capital of Bedford county, and has a very roman- 
tic situation among the mountains. It is in a thriving condition, 
and contains 547 inhabitants. It was originally composed of log 
and frame buildings ; but these are now giving way to brick houses: 
so that I think Bedford is likely to become a very handsome, as it 
will always be a very romantic little place. The public buildings 
are a court-house and prcsbyterian meeting-house; and there are 
four taverns and seven stores in the place. There are several schools; 
and a weekly ncwspa})cr is printed. The people manufacture the 
greater part of their own clothing. 

The land in the neighbourhood is fertile ; but, being immediate- 
ly surrounded with mountains, the quantity of arable land is small, 
and sells at from ten to twenty dollars per acre. 

We lodged at Moore's tavern, where the accommodations were 
very poor. I was shoved into a little dirty apartment, somewhat 

like a passage, the window broken to pieces, and the bed of it 

I had best say nothing. I lay down without undressing, and was 
very glad when called on to take my seat in the stage at 3 o'clock 
in the morning. 



CHAPTER LXV. 

Somerset^ — Laurel Hill, — Chesnut Ridge. 

X UESDAY, August 13th, on taking my place in the stage, I 
found we were to have a numerous company, principally people 
U'om Pittsburg, returning from the spi'ings. One of them, a very 



PENNSYLVANIA. 305 

stont robust looking man, with a thundering voice, was giving the 
necessary orders ; and I began to be afraid that we would have a 
troublesome neighbour : but I was glad to find, afterwards, that I 
had miscalculated, — for I found him to be one of the most civil and 
discreet gentlemen that I had met with in all my travels. Besides 
the company in the stage (and it was full,) there was a cavalcade of 
four or five on horseback ; and being all bound for Pittsburg, we 
made a pretty respectable party. 

Being all fixed, (to use an American expression,) we started at 
half past 3 o'clock. The morning was foggy ; but it cleared up by 
6 o'clock, when the thermometer stood at 50°. We twice crossed 
a branch of the Juniata river, on which a number of valuable mills 
are erected. Between four and five miles from Bedford, the road 
forks, the north branch passing in nearly a direct line to Greens- 
burg. We took the south branch, which passes by Somerset. The 
country is rough, but tolerably well cultivated, and raises much 
more grain than is sufficient to supply the internal demand. The 
market for flour is Baltimore, and the expense of carriage thither 
is about one dollar and a half per barrel. 

We stopped for breakfast J 4; miles from Bedford; and here I 
perceived that they made a difference in the charge between the pas- 
sengers in the stage and those on horseback : the former paying 31 1 
cents, the latter only 25 cents. I inquired into the reason of it, 
and was informed it was in consequence of being obliged to prepare 
victuals for a certain number of passengers by the stage, whether 
they came or not ; in consequence of which there is a considerable 
loss of time, and some waste of victuals ; whereas, in the other case, 
they know to a certainty what they have to prepare. The regulation 
is reasonable. — After breakfast we travelled four miles over an in- 
ferior chuin of hills, called Dry ridge, the road rough, the soil poor, 
and the views numerous and extensive. At 1 1 o'clock we arrived at 
at the foot of the Allegany, the greatest of all the chains of moun- 
tains, and emphatically termed the back-bone of America. 

The ascent of this mountain was easier than I imasined it 
would have been, and the company being sociable and well-disposed, 
we rode and walked alternately, which afforded considerable vari- 
ety. Near the top we stopped at an excellent stone house, kept 
by a Dutchman as a tavern, where we rested a considerable time, 
and bespeaking some refreshment, we found the provisions good, 
and the charge moderate. The view to tlie eastward is very exten- 

39 



306 TRAVELS IN 

sivc ; bift, as \vc were not yet upon the summit, wc could not see 
westward. There was a little rivulet near the house, and on its 
banks some pretty fertile soil, which was with great care converted " 
into arable land ; and a garden beside the house raised a good sup- 
ply of vegetables. The cows, sheep, hogs, and poultry were plen- 
tifully supphed from the grass of the mountain ; bnt the flour and 
liquors had to be brought from the low country. But, in truth, it 
is really a comfortable residence, and I presume the honest Dutch- 
man will succeed very well as a tavern-keeper at this place. On our \ 
way towards the summit we met some people who had been very suc- 
cessful in gathering whortle-berries, with which all the mountains 
abound ; and they made us a present of as many as we chose to take. 
On reaching the summit, my senses were almost overpowered 
bv the sublimity of the view, and the sensations excited by it. To 
form some idea of it, it is necessai-y to bear in mind, that the base 
of the second ridge is a little higher than the first, and so on to the 
Alleo-any, which is the highest of all ; and from thence the coun- 
try ac;ani falls to the westward. Hence the Allegany is the divid- 
ing- rid're between the eastern and western waters ; and a shower of 
rain filling here must be so divided, that one part of it will run into 
the Atlantic by the Chesa])eak bay, and the other will fall into the 
•Gulph of ISIexico by the Mississipi, being separated lOOO miles in 
a direct line. The view is most extensive, and is sublilne in a high 
de<n-ee ; but as it is only a small part of the globe that can be sub- 
mitted to the sense of vision at any one time, there is a kind of regret, 
commingled with the other sensations, that we cannot here view 
the country from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. Imagination and 
a perusal of the map must in part supply the defect. But I cannot 
express all I feel, and must hasten from the towering eminence, to 
survey the country piece by piece, the only way that it can be ac- 
complished by mortal man. I may cry out, *' O, that I had the 
wings of the morning, that I might fly to the uttermost ends of 
the earth in search of knowledge t" But sober reason steps in to 
check the vain illusion ; so I must e'en take her for my guide, and 
travel, not as fancy, but as reason directs. 

As we began to descend, I could distinctly perceive that we were 
now in a different climate, and was strongly impressed with the 
force of Volney's remarks on the climate of the United States. 
The wind was blowing from the westward, and had a balmy soft- 
ness, which I had often observed in Europe, but seldom in the 
United States ; and though it was the hottest time of the day, and 



PEJNNSYLVANIA. 307 

the hottest season of the year, we felt no inconvenience from it. 
On reaching the plains below, these remarks were corroborated by 
observing the fields. The grass, grain, fruit, all indicated that we 
were now in a temperate climate; the fields of oats were particular- 
ly demonstrative of it. In all my travels through the Atlantic 
states, east of the mountains, I had uniformly noticed that oats did 
not come to the same degree of maturity as in Europe. The rea- 
son which I assigned was, that the climate is too rapid for them, 
and they are ripened before the ear fills. Here, however, I fouiid 
elegant fields of them, which had come to full maturity ; and I 
was so struck with the circumstance, that 1 several times got out 
of the stage to examine them. I always met with the same result. 

From the foot of the mountain, we travelled about 14 miles, 
through an uneven country, to Somerset, where we stopped for 
the night. On our arrival at this place, I v/as proceeding to follow 
up my inquiries ; and judging that the landlord would be equally 
communicative and obliging with those I had before met with in 
the United States, I began to put some questions to him. But I 
soon found that I had reckoned without my host. To the first 
question he made a repulsive answer ; and at the second, he turned 
upon his heel, muttering something to himself, that 1 did not dis- 
tinctly hear. " O, ho !" thinks I to myself^ " I have got into the 
wrong box ;" so I very composedly shut up my papers, and step- 
ped over to the postmastei", at the other side of the street. I found 
him a perfect contrast to the landlord. He was not only willing to 
answer all my questions, but he called in the aid of several other 
gentlemen, and I got every information I could desire. 

Somerset is the capital of Somerset county, and is situated in a 
valley called the Glades. The town was laid out about 24 years 
ago, and now contains 480 inhabitants. The houses are in num- 
ber about 80 or 90, principally built of logs, and there are eight 
taverns and six stores. The public buildings are a court house and 
jail ; and two churches are building. The town is well supplied 
with provisions, which sell at moderate prices ; beef, mutton, and 
pork, are about four cents per pound. The manufactures ai'e 
equal to the supply of the demand, except for fine goods. There 
are in the town and neighbourhood several carding machines lor 
wool, and one for cotton, which are doing well. Cotton is brought 
from Baltimore at about two cents per pound ; and wool, both 
common and merino, is abundant in the country. TJie schools are 



308 TRAVELS IN 

very good and improving; and there is a newspaper society estab- 
lished, which gets all the principal newspapers in the United States* 

The country in the neighbourhood is pretty fertile, and agri- 
culture is in an improved state. They raise oats, barley, wheat, 
and rye; and the country answers remarkably well for grazing, 
particularly sheep. There is plenty of iron ore in the valley, and 
three forges have been recently erected. The greater part of the 
surplus produce is carried to Cumberland, 35 miles distant; where 
it is taken by bouts, down the Potomac, to Baltimore. Land car- 
riage to Philadelphia is three dollars per cwt. 

The obliging postmaster from whom I got my information, is a 
native of Ireland, and has been long settled in this country. His 
name is Clark, and I shall long keep it on the right side of the 
book of my remembrance. — Mr. Webster, the landlord, must 
take " ihe left hand road." 

On my return to the tavern, the company had all retired to bed, 
but I had to sit up and finish my notes. The landlord hinted that 
I had better go to bed, as the stage would start very early in the 
morning. 1 told hi:n I must write a little before I went to bed, 
but would rise at any hour, provided I was called. He said I 
would be called in due time. Before I finished, it was near 12 
o'clock. 

August 14th. At half past 2 o'clock, I heard the voice of my 
landlord, calling all hands to their duty. I looked up, rubbing 
my eyes : — " Will the stage go soon ?" said I. " The stage will 
go when it's ready," said he. " And when will it be ready ?" said 
I. " That's nothing to you," said he : "I have called you ; that's 
my duty; if you don't obey orders, and are disappointed, the 
blame's your own." I started up, and went down stairs. W^hen I 
settled my bill, " Now I'm ready," said I. " No, you're not quite 
ready yet," said he, " there's some whiskey and bitters for you." I 
took a little of it. " Well, what's to pay for this ?" « Nothing." 
The ladies appeared, and he ordered them into an adjoining room 
to ^ct some coffee ; and pointed out the whiskey and bitters to tlie 
crentlemen who attended them. " I believe I'll take a cup of cof- 
fee with the ladies," said one of the gentlemen. " If you don't 
choose the bitters, you may let them alone," said the landlord ; 
*' but the coffee was provided for the ladies, and of it you don't 
get one drop." But his care of the ladies did not end here. The 
morning vas cold and raw, and he provided warm great coats for 



PENNSYLVANIA. S09 

them all. This humane conduct gave me a better opinion of 
him, than I otherwise would have entertained ; and, enquiring 
•into his history, I learned that he had been an officer in llie army, 
during the war, which accounted for the austerity of his behaviour, 
and the haughtiness of his command. 

Six miles from Somerset, we reached Laurel Kill, of which, 
as I made no particular remark, except that we had a fine view 
from the top, I shall transcribe Michaux's account. " The di- 
rection of this ridge is parallel with those we left behind us ; the 
woods which cover it, are more tufted, and the vegetation appears 
more lively. The name given to this mountain, I have no doubt, 
proceeds from the great quantity o^ calmia lat?folia, from 8 to 10 
feet high, which grows exclusively in all the vacant places, and 
that of the rhododendrum maximum^ which enamel the borders of 
the torrents ; for the inhabitants call the rhododendrum laurel, as 
frequently as the calmin latifolia." The descent on the western 
side of this ridge was very steep, and we had to walk nearly all 
the way down. 

We breakfasted at the foot of Laurel Hill, and travelled over 
a country pretty fertile, and partially improved, about eight miles 
to the foot of Chesnut Ridge, the last and least of the mountains ; 
over which the road passes two miles. This ridge lies parallel with 
all the others, and has nothing to recommend it to particular no- 
tice, except that the view being now unobstructed to the westward, 
the western country appears to be spread out like a plain of vast 
extent. We reached the foot of this mountain at 1 o'clock, and I 
shall introduce the country beyond it to the notice of the reader, 
m a new chapter. 



CHAPTER LXVL 

Western Country, — Greenshttrg, — Pittsburg. 

On entering into the country to the westward of the mountains, 
the whole fice of natureJndicated a fertile soil and healthy cli- 
mate. The woods consisted principal!}'' of oak, hickory, chesnut, 
walnut, locust, and sugar-maple ; and the trees were generally 
speaking, larger than any timber I had ever seen before. The 
fields were fertile and well cultivated, and the crops of grain and 



SIO TR4VELS IN 

grass were luxuriant. The surface of the earth is swelled out into 
an innumerable number of small hills, but all fit for cultivation, 
and the ground is abundantly watered by springs and rivulets. 
With these advantages, it was not to be supposed that this coun- 
try, so near the old settlements, would long lie waste ; and we 
accordingly find, that the county of Westmoreland is one of the 
most populous in the state of Pennsylvania. The farms are well 
improved, and the farm-houses ai"c, many of them, substantial, 
and bespeak affluence, ease, and comfort. These remarks may 
appear singular to such as know of no medium by wdiich wealth 
can, be obtained, but that of foreign commerce; but they are, 
nevertheless, correct. 1'he people here appear to be as well 
lodged, as well fed, and as well clothed, as those who live in 
the neighbourhood of Philadelphia or New York. 

After passing Chesnut Ridge the road makes a considerable 
bend to the northward, and crosses several small creeks, branches 
of the Yoxhiogeni river ; the principal of which is Sewickly creek; 
and seven miles from thence we reached Greensburg, passing in 
our way a salt spring, and a coal mine, the first I had seen in the 
United States. We stopped for the night at Worbache's tavern. 

Gkeensbukg is the capital of Westmoreland county, and is 
situated in a healthy, fertile country. It contains by last census 
680 inhabitants, and is encreasing. The houses are mostly built 
of wood, but some few are of brick. The public buildings arc, a 
court-house, jail, meeting-house, and market-house. 

Thursday, 15th August. The stage started from Greensburg 
at 4 o'clock, and travelled through a fertile country ; but it was 
very uneven, and we were constantly either ascending or descend- 
ing. Six miles from Greensburg we passed a little place called 
Adamsburg, consisting of a few houi^es onl}' ; and at six miles 
from thence we stopped to breakfast at the house of a Mr. Stewart, 
one of the most discreet landlords 1 ever saw. Our charge here 
•was only 25 cents. At ten miles fi'om Stewart's we had to descend 
a pretty steep eminence, to cross Turtle creek, and some rain 
having fallen, the road was very slippery and bad. One of the 
Pittsburg gentlemen, and I, alighted to walk down the hill. We 
got a considerable way before the stage, and my fellow-traveller 
took me a little off the road, to see what he termed a great curi- 
osity. It was indeed one of nature's wonders, the remains of a 
remarkably large tree. The history of it, as he stated it, was this. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 3! I 

The tree was a sycamore, which species, when they grow very 
large, decay in the heart. This one had so decayed, and there 
was a hole in one side of it. A family had come down the creek iu 
the winter season, and got their boat stove by the ice ; when, see- 
ing this ti-ec, they cleared out the rubbish from the inside, and 
converted it into a house, where they lived for some time, till 
they got their boat repaired. When they left it they set it on 
fire, which consumed every thing but the stump; and the remains 
of it now form a circle like the staves of a large vat. ?'Iy friend 
told me he had rode into it with his horse, and turnetl him round 
in the inside, which he could do with ease. We measured it, and 
found it to be fully 15 feet in diameter. 

Havintj crossed the creek, and ascended the hill on the other 
side, we travelled about a mile, when we came to the ground 
where General Braddock was defeated. Many memorials of the 
battle are still to be seen; but none so characteristic as the bones, 
which lay bleaching by the way side; and of which one of our 
company, being an anatomist, carried one away as a curiosity. 

A little after passing this place, we stopped at the house of a 
judge Wallace; and here we were recompensed for the disagreea- 
ble sensations excited by the sight of the field of battle, by the 
view of one of the most lovely of God's works. Miss Wallace 
came out to the carriage with some fruit and cyder. She waa 
beautiful, while she appeared quite unconscious of it, being en- 
tirely free from affectation ; she was the picture of innocence, and 
sweet simplicity. On leaving the house, I was informed by the 
Pittsburg ladies, who were acquainted with her, that her mind 
\vas as elegant as her person, and her affections gra^jed both — 
the whole forming the picture of the poet : 



-Innocenca 



Looked gaily smiling on ; whik rosy Plcasufe 
Hid young Desire amid her flow'ry wreath, 
And pour'd her cup luxuriant ; mantling high. 
The sparkling heavenly vintage, love and bliss. 

From hence to Pittsburg is nine miles, and the country con- 
inued hilly for seven; when we came to the banks of the Alle- 
gany, and proceeded along an open plain, bounded by the Alle- 
gany on the west, and by pretty high hills on the east ; and wef 
proceeded between these, two miles, to Pittsburg, where we arriveti 
at two o'clock. 



3]2 



TRAVELS IN 



I shall close this chapter with a few general remarks. 

The whole of the mountains, as far as I saw them, are cover- 
ed with wood to the very top ; and they form a very luxuriant ap- 
pearance, compared with the bleak mountains of Britain and Ire- 
land. There are a ^reat variety of valuable plants amongst them ; 
but, being no botanist, I shall barely transcribe a list of them, 
which I find scattered in different places of Michaux' .Travels. 
Calmia latifolia, Andromeda vacciiiium, Hhododendrum^ TJiodo- 
dendrum maximum^ Magnolia acuminata^ Q_uercushanisteri, Azalea. 

Michaux mentions that there are a great many rattlesnakes in 
the mountainous parts of Pennsylvania, and he found a vast num- 
ber of them killed upon the road. We found only one, and I 
have never yet seen a live rattle-snake in America, except one ex- 
hibited in a box as a show. 

As I have the book of this respectable traveller in my hand, I 
may notice, that the country has much changed in the course of 
eight years, or he must have been mistaken in some of his conclu- 
sions. In the 2d London edition, page 30, he observes : " Sheep 
being very scarce, the wool is very dear, and they reserve it to 
make stockings." In my journey through the mountains, I passed 
many droves of horses, cattle, hogs, and some sheep, going to the 
eastward. The mountainous district is well calculated for sheep 
and merino sheep have been introduced, and are thriving remark- 
ably well. Wool is plenty, and carding machines are common all 
over the country. In page 40, he observes: " A passion for 
spiritous liquors is one of the features that characterize the coun- 
try people, belonging to the interior of the United States. This 
passion is so strong, that they desert their homes every now and 
then, to get drunk in public houses ; in fact I do not conceive 
there 10 out of 100 who have resolution to desist from it a mo- 
ment, provided they had it by them." In my journey across the 
mountains, I did not see a single person (h'unk, though no doubt 
there might have been many. There is unquestionably too much 
spirituous liquors drank in tlie newly settled parts of America, but 
.1 very good reason can be assigned for it. The labour of clearing 
the land is rugged and severe, and the summers heats are sometimes 
so orreat that it would be dau'rerous to drink cold water. This is a 
truth, whatever philosophers may think of it. Where the coun- 
try is entirely new, there are no ii]')ples, and consequently no c}'- 
<ler. Malt liquor will not keep, spirituous liquors are soon pre- 



PENNSYLVANIA. 313 

pared, and are in fact the only beverage to which the settlers 
have access ; and many may, in this way, acquire a habit, v.hich 
they will not be able afterwards to correct. By and bye, a new set 
of settlers comes into the country, with more temperate habits ; 
the first class, who may with propriety be called pioneers, sell 
their improvements, and move away to clear lands farther back ; 
the country becomes stocked with fruit for cyder, and materials 
for malt liquor; and the people are as temperate in their habits, 
and as correct in their morals, as the inhabitants of either France 
or England. This district of country was new when Michaux tra- 
velled through it, and he had seen some instances of intemperance, 
"which no doubt would maW^i^a considerable impression on his 
mind ; but there is no way of accounting for the sweeping con- 
clusion he draws against the whole of the " country people belong- 
ing to the interior of the United States," namely, all the farmers, ex- 
cept by the presumption, that his mind must have been predisposed, 
in consequence of misinformation received from some prejudiced 
foreigners in the sea-ports, many of whom are ever ready to abuse 
and vilify the mass of the people in the United States. But we 
may set it down as ft '^ertain truth, that "corruption of morals hi 
the mass of cultivators is a phenomenon of which no age or nation 
has furnished an example." 

The expense of travelling by the stage, from Philadelphia to 
Pittsburg, is 20 dollars, and 121 cents for every pound of luggage 
beyond 14. The charges by the way are about 7 dollars. The 
whole distance is 297 miles, and the stage travels it in 6 days. 
The expense of travelling by a waggon is 5 dollars per cwt. ibr 
both persons and property ; and the charges by the way are about 
12 dollars. A waggon performs the journey in about 20 days. 

1 cannot here omit to notice of what importance it would be 
to have a good turnpike road across the mountains ; and I was 
glad to learn that it was probable one would soon be made. Com- 
missioners were surveying the different lines of road at the time 
we passed, and it was expected they would make their report to 
the legislature at their next meeting. From the liberality which 
that body have lately adopted towards the public concerns of the 
state, and the ample funds in their hands, there seems to be no 
doubt but this important branch of political economy will receive 
every encouragement which it deserves ; and, when a good road is 
carried through betwixt Philadelphia and Pitt&burg, it will be at- 

40 



31 i TRAVELS IN 

tended with advantages of which the most sanguine calculator 
could not at present form an estimate. 

In surveying the " sublime and beautiful," in the course of this 
jouf ney, 1 often thought of the Society of Artists in Philadelphia, 
and wished that some of their amateurs had been along with me to 
delineate some of the scenery to embellish this work ; but that ob- 
ject not being attainable, I must embellish it in the best way I can, 
by giving my readers an account of what they can eat, and what 
they can drink, and wherewithal they can be clothed ; and of what 
can be done here to procure these articles, so necessary to the sup- 
port of human life. 



CHAPTER LXVIL 

FUtsburg. 

EiAVlNG formed an acquaintance with my Pittsburg fellow-tra- 
vellers, whom 1 found to be very discreet well-inlbrmed people, I 
was enabled very soon by their assistance to make myself acquaint- 
ed with this part of the country. 

PiTTSBtiiG is situated at the confluenceof the Allegany and Mo- 
nongahela rivers, the junction of which forms the Ohio. It extends 
about three-quarters of a mile along the Allegany river, and about 
half a mile alonfr the Monongahela. Tlie scite of the town is nar- 
row, being hemmed in by hills to the eastward, about half a mile 
from the Allegany river ; but there is room for it to extend along 
that river two miles. 

The town was jEirst laid out in 1765; but was surveyed and laid 
out on a new plan in 1784. The plan was meant to accommodate 
4iie town to both rivers; but it is by no means so well designed as- 
it might have been. The streets are generally too narrow,^and they 
cross one another at ac ute angles, which is both hurtful to the eye 
and injurious to tlie buildings. The value of the situation may be 
determined by a notice of the progress of the town. In 1800 it 
i'ontaincd 2100 inhabitants; in 1807 it contained about 500 houses; 
and in 1810 it contained 11 stone buildings, 283 of brick, and 473 
of frame and log : making in all 767 ; and the number of inhabitants 
vas 4768. Pittsburg has, of course, nearly doubled its population 
Oil 10 yearsr ; and there is Qvevy probability that this ratio will conti- 



PENNSYLVANIA. 315 

tiue for a considerable time to come : so that Pittsbur^^ will in all 
probability become one of the largest towns in America. 

The principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, market- 
house, bank, academy, and 5 places of public worship. There are 
also several manufactories which may rank as public buildings. A 
steam mill, built of hewn stone, which can drive 3 pair of stones, ca- 
pable of grinding upwards of 500 bushels of grain in 24 hours; 4 
glass-houses; several air-furnaces; several breweries and distille- 
ries ; two cotton manufactories, and a number of carding machines; 
a white lead manufactory; a wire-drawing manufactory, wrought 
by a steam-engine; an iron grinding mill, and many others. 

The following enumeration of the professions exercised in Pitts- 
burg will show the rapid progress that society iias made here. Ma- 
sons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers 
coopers, turners, ship and boat builders, machine-makers, wheel- 
wrights, smiths and nailors, brass founders, copper-smiths tin- 
smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, cutlers, wire-drawers, wire-work- 
ers, lock-smiths, screw and hinge-makers, clock and watch-makers 
button-makers, steam engine-builders, bottle-blowers, o]ass-maker« 
glass-cutters, looking-glass-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers boot 
and shoe-makers, glovers and breeches -makers, butchers baker- 
brewers, distillers, cotton-spinners, wcii.vers, dyers, stockinrr-makers 
tailors, printers, book -binders, marbled paper -makers, ink pow- 
der-makers, rope-makers, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-makers 
brush-makers, comb-makers, potters, painters, and white lead- 
makers. 

The manufacturers in all these branches are prosperino-, and the 
most of those employed at them are becoming wealthy. Labour 
is well paid; a few of the prices may be quoted. Carpenters a dol- 
lar per day ; cabinet-makers are paid by the piece, and they can 
make above a dollar ; smiths and tanners 12 dollars per month, with 
their board ; shoemakers 94 cents for making a pair of shoes, and 
2 dollars 50 cents for boots; shipwrights 1 dollar 50 cents per day: 
other mechanics about 1 dollar ; labourers 75 cents. 

The various manufactures in Pittsburg exceed a million of dol- 
lars annuall}', and we may calculate its progress in wealth from this 
data. A million of dollars is above 200 dollars a year to every man 
woman, and child in Pittsburg ; or, taking them by families of 5 
it is 1000 dollars to a family ; and the expenditure of a family does 
not, on an average, exceed one-third of that num. This wealth, to 



316 TRAVELS IN 

be sure, will not be equally diffused ; some will get more—some 
less : but it is an income to the town, and, the outgoings not being 
above one-third, leaves an accumulation of capital of nearly 700,000 
dollars annuully. With this accumulation of capital, and other ad- 
vantages, and the spirit of enterprize which is exhibited in Pitts- 
burg, I have no hesitation in hazarding an opinion that it will be- 
come one of the greatest manufacturing towns in the world. 

Besides the supply of the town and country round with manufac- 
tures, Pittsburg has a vast export trade, principally down the Ohio. 
The following may be enumerated as the most prominent articles 
of export: window- glass, bottles, flint-glass, decanters, tumblers, 
&c., beer and porter, saddles and bridles, boots and shoes, tin and 
copper wares, stills and other apparatus for distilling, weavers' reeds, 
metal buttons, snuff and segars, carpenter and cabinet work, &c. 

As the greater part of the manufactures that have been enume- 
rated are in a progressive state of improvement, workmen can hard- 
ly go wrong by coming to this place. They are sure of work and 
good wages at all times. The following new branches of manufac- 
ture might be established to advantage; chaise and chair making, 
upholstery ; piano-fortes, and other musical instruments ; stocking 
frames : and the following are susceptible of augmentation : cotton 
and wool spinning and weaving ; stocking-making. 

The progress of the manufactures of Pittsburg is in effect guaran- 
teed by the cheapness of living, as the following rates will show. 
House-rent for a mechanic is about 50 or 60 dollars per annum ; 
coals from five to six cents per bushel, delivered, and 300 bushel* 
will serve for one fire 12 mouths, being from 15 to 18 dollars; flour 
two dollars per cwt. ; meal 40 cents per cwt. ; potatoes 31 cents per 
bushel; other vegetables are very cheap; beef, mutton, and veal 
from four to six cents per pound; pork from three to four cents per 
pound ; bacon from six to ten cents per pound ; venison from three 
to four and a half cents per pound; fowls 12^ cents each; ducks 
25 cents; geese from 50 to 75 cents ; turkeys from 50 to 100 cents; 
fish very plenty and cheap ; cheese from 8 to 12 cents ; butter from 
10 to 18 cents; eggs from 8 to 10; beer and porter plenty and rea- 
sonable ; cyder from two to four dollars per barrel ; whiskey 40 
cents per gallon ; peach brandy 80 cents; maple sugar 10 cents 
per pound; salt 150 cents per cwt. ; seven-hundred country linen 
from 33 to 40 cents per yard. 

A dollar exchanges in sterling at ds. 6d. ; a cent is a fraction more 
than a halfpenny. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 3iT 

From this list of prices, taken in connexion with the value of la- 
bour, it will be f een that an ordinary workman can procure for a 
day's work 50 pounds of flour; or 20 pounds of beef; or three 
bushels of potatoes ; or 27 pounds of pork; or eight fowls ; or four 
ducks; or two ordinary geese ; or one very large turkey. Whilo 
this continues to be the case (and I think it will long continue,) 
it may be fairly inferred tliat a workman can support his family 
with the produce of his labour in ease and affluence, and can ac- 
cumulate a stock of wealth for old age, and for posterity. 

The inhabitants of Pittsburg being a collection from all nations, 
kindreds, tongues, and languages, it must naturally be supposed that 
they will exhibit a considerable variety of manners. The Pittsburg 
^Navigator, a little book containnig a vast variety of information re- 
garding the western country, the prosperity of which seems to be 
an object of peculiar solicitude with the editous, thus enumerates 
them : " They are principally Americans ; a good many Irish, 
some English, some Scotch, some French, Dutch, and Swiss, and 
a few Welch and Italians." But as they are mostly operative 
mechanics, having no separate interest to keep them at variance, 
they are generally friendly and sociable with one another ; and will 
in a short time assimilate and become one body politic. 

The pulpit and bar are both respectably supported ; and Pitts- 
burg is well supplied with good schools. There are two weekly- 
newspapers printed in the town, and there is a general collection of 
papers brought here from every quarter of the union. The inha- 
bitants have also established a public library, and some young men 
have lately formed themselves into a society for collecting materials 
for a museum. Laudable attention has also been paid to a branch 
more valuable, perhaps, than any other — the education of young 
ladies. When we reflect that instruction is the handmaid of virtue — 
that to the female sex belongs the care of man in his early years — 
that during this pei'iod his manners, his habits, and the rudiments 
of his intellect are formed; when we duly reflect on these things, 
then will we appreciate the value of female education, an*?!! every 
true patriot will contribute to support it as far as he has opportunitv. 

The situation of Pittsburg is as advantageous as can well be ima- 
gined. The Monongahela is about 400 j'ards wide at its mouth, 
and in the spring and fall freshets has sufficient water to carry shijis 
of -iOO tons burden. These freshets soon subside, and render the 
navigntion precarious for large vessels : but it is pretty good for" 



'SI 8 TRAVELS IN 

l<eel boats to Brownsville, and thence in small vessels from 100 to 
HO miles into the interior of the country. 

The AlleLi-any is navigable to within 14 or 15 miles of lake Erie, 
and thtre is now an excellent turnpike road made over this portage. 
•There are many navigable rivers which fall into these two streams, 
so that the quantity of produce that is daily poured into Pittsburg 
is immense, and it is yearly increasing. From Pittsburg the Ohio 
is navigable to its mouth, and thence the navigation is continued to 
New Oi'leans. These rivers are now so well known, that they are 
navigated upwards with almost as great facility as downwards, and 
they communicate with so many important points of the country, 
that the advantage to Pittsburg is incalculable. I may just men. 
tion two or three instances. Lead is brought from St. Louis, near 
the Missouri ; cotton is brought from Tennesee for four cents per 
pound ; and salt is brought from the banks of the Great Kanhaway. 
All the materials for glass, iron wares, and malt liquors are found 
in great plenty in the neighbourhood ; and there is an everlasting 
cupply of coal in the hills all round the town. 

In the course of my walks through the streets I heard every 
where the sound of the hammer and anvil ; all was alive ; every 
thing indicated the greatest industry, and attention to business* 
The "iTtjarkets were well stocked with provisions and fruit, and the 
vegetables were larger than any I had ever seen before. I ascend- 
ed a handsome eminence, called Grant's Hill, from whence I had 
ft fine view of the town and country. I went accompanied by a 
friend to visit the glass-works, which we found in excellent order, 
imd one of the workmen prepared for us some glass ware of curious 
■workmanship. In the neighbourhood we saw apotterj-, at which a 
great deal of very handsome earthen utensils are manufactured. I 
carried a letter of introduction to Mr. Roosvelt, the gentleman who 
had the management of the steam-boat which was building on 
the Ohio. He was not at home, but I went to see the boat. It had 
lately been launched on the Monongahela river, and was the largest 
vessel 1 had ever seen which bore the name of a boat. Mer dimen- 
sions were as follows: length 148 feet 6 inches; breadth 32 feet 6 inch- 
es; depth 12 feet; and she will draw four feet of water. She was ori- 
ginally intended to run between Pittsburg and the falls of the Ohio, 
but she was found to be too large, and is now destined to yan be- 
tween New Orleans and Natches. The ultimate design of the pro- 
prietors is to have six boats to ply between the falls and New Or- 



PENNSYLVANIA. 519 

leans, and five between the falls and Pittsburg. Should this plan 
be practicable, and caiTied into full execution, it will be of incal- 
culable advantage to the whole western country. 

During my stay in Pittsburg, an ecclesiastical trial took place, 
which excited a great deal of interest in the town, and I went, 
among others, to hear it. The case was this. A Mr. Graham, a 
native of Ireland, had been bred to the ministry of the gospel, 
among a class of people called Cameronians. He was unsuccessful 
in his native countr}', where he was not able to support his family; 
and after struggling for some time with the world, and getting a 
little in debt, he emigrated to this country, where he appears to have 
been well received by his brethren of the same persuasion, in New 
.York and Philadelphia. He was possessed of very popular 
talents, and became a favourite in the different congregations where 
he preached ; but a misunderstanding appears to have soon taken 
place between him and his brethren of ihe ministry ; in consequence 
of which, his progress was retarded, and after being buffettcd 
about in various situations to the eastward, he got settled in a 
small congregation 20 or 30 miles from Pittsburg. The differences- 
between him and his brethi'en appear to have continued and enr 
creased, and at last came to an open rupture : a charge, which they 
called ^'^Jama clamosa" was instituted against him, and the trial took 
place in the Cameronian meeting-house of Pittsburg. . The court 
was composed of three clergymen, who appeared to be all opposed 
to Mr. Graham. The evidence had closed by the time 1 went to 
the church, and Mr. Graham rose to make his defence, which con- 
tinued, with different intervals, part of thi-ee days. He was un- 
commonly eloquent, but dreadfully severe upon his opponents, 
whom he charged with high crimes and misdemeanors ; and, whe- 
ther he was right or wrong, he certainly succeeded in getting the 
popular voice in Pittsburg in his favour, particularly the ladies. I 
have more than once taken noticeof their influence in societv. The 
effect of it was irresistible in this case. The inhabitants learned 
that he was poor, and that his poverty would militate much against 
him in the encounter with his assailants: they raised a considerable 
subscription for him, and, by the time tiiat the court were ready 
for a decision, he had become so strong in the public favour, that he 
could set his brethren at defiance. Without waiting, therefore, 
for their sentence, he wrote out his declinature, threw it upon the 
table, walked out of the church, and was followed to his lodoringj 
by a considerable part of the congregation. 



S20 TRAVELS IN 

Without inquiring who was right or who was wrong in this ' 
transaction, I may notice, that the circumstances connected with * 
it involve a question of the most serious importance to man- 
kind ; and bear testimony to the value of religious freedom, as 
enjoyed in the United States. The history of all ages proves that 
the clergy have a strong influence over the mind of the multitude, 
and this is great in proportion to the ignorance of their hearers. 
It is dangerous, therefore, to entrust them with more temporal 
power than belongs to them, in society, as men. They are men \ 
of like passions with others, and when those of pi'ide, ambition, 
or jealousy take the lead of reason, assuredly their extraordinary 
powers, if they have them, will be abused. Had a similar trial 
taken place in Spain or Portugal, and the clerical majority been as 
strong as it was against Mr. Graham in Pittsburg, the victim, so 
far from being supported by a liberal subscription, and escorted to 
Ills lodgings by a number of respectable people, would have been 
rxconimunicated and cast out of the true church; the devil would 
luivc been painted on his back ; he would have been led to the stake ; 
and, in the devouring flames, would have glutted the vengeance 
of the priesthood, amid the unhallowed hallelujahs of their de- 
luded votaries. 



CHAPTER LXVIII. 

Juurneij to Harmony, 

I SHALL now introduce by name a fellow-traveller. Dr. Isaac 
Cleaver, of Philadelphia. This gentleman travelled in the stage 
with me from Bedford ; we lodged together at Pittsburg; and we 
now a'J'reed to travel together to visit the Harmonist Society. 
With this view, we procured a couple of hacks, very sorry ones, 
indeed, and set out from Pittsburg, on Monday, the 20th of Au- 
gust, at 6 o'clock in the morning. 

We crossed the Allegany by a boat. It is here about 400 yards 
broad, and the deepest part of it seven feet. The current is gentle, 
and the water reujarkably pure. On the opposite side of the river 
there is a narrow bottom of very rich land, after passing which we 
ascended pretty steep hills, and by a rough road reached a tavern 
ei^ht miles from the river. The day was now very hot, but w& 



PENNSYLVANIA. S2l 

could only stop a few minutes, and moved on six miles, to Dixon's 
tavern, where we found the landlord completely drunk. The day 
continuing uncommonly hot, we rested here about half an hour, 
and, after travelling about a mile, we reached the plainj, so called 
from being a sort of meadow, and destitute of trees. Here we 
were entirely without shade, and the force of the sun nearly over- 
powered us. I never recollect to have suffered so much from the 
heat ; and we got no relief till after travelling four miles; when 
we reached another tavern at the further end of the plains, where 
we found a sober, industrious family, busily employed in domestic 
manufactures. 

The whole country, from Pittsburg to this place, is rather rough 
and uncultivated ; and land sells at from two to three dollars per 
acre. Beyond this, as we continued our journey, we found the 
country to improve, and approaching the precincts of the Harmo- 
nist Society, we passed some of their well cultivated farms. Here 
the road passes over a considerable hill, and on reachinn- the top, 
we saw at a little distance the town of Harmony, elegantly situ- 
ated amid flourishing and well cultivated fields. We reached the 
town at 3 o'clock, and proceeded to the tavern, an excellent stone 
building, where we found good accommodations. 

Before I proceed to state our transactions at this place, I shall 
give an account of the rise and progress of the Harmonist Society. 
It is chiefly extracted from the appendix to Cumming's Western 
Tour, published at Pittsburg ; and as we had it revised and cor- 
rected by Mr. Frederic Rapp, its authenticity may be relied on. 

" The society had its origin in Wurtembcrg, in German}^, about 
the year 17S5. The Lutheran i-eligion was then predominant in 
the country, to which every subject was obliged to submit. No- 
body durst venture to contradict the laws given by the consistory ; 
and no person was left free to believe any system of religion to be 
true, except what was promulgated by teachers appointed by that 
body. The fundamental principles which Luther deduced from 
the doctrines of Jesus Christ and his apostles, were almost wholly de- 
stroyed; and in place of religon being made a principle to rerener- 
ate the mind, and regulate the life, it was converted into an eno-ine 
of power, to keep the people in check to the civil government. 

" This decline of the church was seen and felt by George Rapp, 
who found himself impelled to bear testimony to the fundamental 
principles of the christian religion; and he soon got a number of 

41 



322 TRAVl-LS IN 

adherents, who formed themselves into a society. But they were 
despised and persecuted by the consistory, who often subjected them 
to fines and imprisonment, because they would not go to the estab- 
lished church. But they persevered, and the persecution they en- 
dured encreased the members of the society. Under these cir- 
cumstances they groaned for deliverance, and wished for a resi- 
dence in some part of the world, where they might enjoy religious 
toleration, and be permitted to worship God according to the 
tlictatcs of their consciences, unmolested by man. Some proposals 
were made to allow them a })iece of land in France, and at last 
in their own country ; but the providence of God has ruled the 
matter in another wa}'. lie discovered to the society America, 
as if he had said, " that is the country where you shall serve me, 
and where you shall confess my name." Accordingly the society 
determined unanimously to go to America, and Mr. Rapp, and 
some othersj were appointed to go before them and seek out an 
eligible situation in that country. 

" The deputies arrived in safety at Philadelphia in the year 
1803, and passing into the western country, tiiey fixed on a situ- 
ation, and wrote to their friends. In the year 1804', the whole 
society, coiisiiting of 150 or 160 families, embarked in three ves- 
sels at Amsterdam. One of these arrived at Baltimore, and the 
other two at Philadelphia, where Mr. Rapp was waiting to receive 
tliem ; and from thence they had to take a troublesome overland 
journey of 320 miles. In November, 40 of these families moved to 
the westward ; and, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, 
they built nine log houses, in which they resided during the win- 
ter. Next spring 50 more families arrived, which brought the 
society to 90 famihes ; and in February, 1805, the society was or- 
ganized into one body, by a consitution grounded on Acts iv. 32, 
And the multitude of them that believed "dcere of one heart, and of 
07ie soul : neither said any of them that aught of the things he pos' 
sessed ivas his oivn, but tiiey had all things common. 

"Thus constituted, they laid out a town, and in commemora- 
tion of their unity of sentiment, and brotherly ufa-ction, they call- 
ed it Harmi^ny; and from lienccforih they conthmed to labour iu 
brotherly association, and in common. This year they built 46 
log houses, ] 3 feet by 24 ; a large barn ; and a grist mill, to 
wliich a race was dug of nearly three quarters of a mile in lengtli. 
150 acres ofgromid were cleared for corn, 40 for potatoes, and 
15 for meadow. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



323 



^ «« In 1806 they built an inn, partly of stone, 32 feet by 42, and 
two stories high; a frame barn 100 feet long; an oil-mill; a blue- 
dyer's shop ; and they sunk a tannery. 300 acres of land were 
^ileared for corn, and 58 for meadow. 

*' In 1807 they erected a brick store-house, a saw-mill, and a brew- 
cry. 400 acres of land were cleared for grain and meadow, and four 
acres of vines were planted. This year they sold of their produce and 
pianufactures, 600 bushels of grain, and 3000 gallons of whiskey. 

"In 1808 they built a meeting-house of brick, 70 feet by 55; 
a brick dwelling-house, and some other buildings, and stables for 
cattle; a frame barn, 80 feet long; and a bridge 220 feet long 
over the Conaquenesing ci'eek. A considerable quantity of ground 
was cleared, and they sold 2000 bushels of grain, and manufac- 
tured 1400 into whiskey. 

"In 1S09 they built a falling mill, which does a great deal of 
business for the country; a hemp mill, an oil mill, a gi'ist mill, a 
brick warehouse, 46 feet by 36, having a wine cellar, completely 
arched over; and another brick building of the same dimensions. 
A considerable quantity of land was cleared. The produce cf 
this year was, 6000 bushels of Indian corn, 4500 bushels of wheat, 
4500 bushels of rye, 5000 bushels of outs, 10,000 busliels of po- 
tatoes, 4000 lbs. of flax and hemp, 100 bushels of barley brewed 
into beer, and 50 gallons of sweet oil, made from the white poppy, 
and equal to the imported olive oil. Of this produce they sold 
3000 bushels of corn, 1000 bushels of potatoes, 1000 bushels of 
wheat; and they distilled 1600 bushels of rye. 

"In 1810 a wool-carding machine and two spinning jennies 
were erected, for the fabrication of broad cloth from the wool of 
merino sheep. A frame barn was built 100 feet long, and a brick 
house built to accommodate 20 weavers' looms in the under story ; 
the second to be destined for a school-room." 

The unprovements were going on rapidly when we visited them, 
and ever}' thing wore the appearance of an old established settle- 
ment. A great variety of articles of the manufacture of the socie- 
ty had been sold, besides the produce of the ground ; such as 
shoes, boots, saddles, smith-work, cloth, &c. ; and these and 
other manufiictures were rapidly increasing. A more full develope- 
ment of their principles and econom}-, will appear from the objects 
that came under our view, in the course of our visit. 

On our arrival at the inn, we learned that the innkeeper was one 
of the society, and had been nppointcd to thai station because he 



324 TRAVELS IN 

could talk the English language fluently. He told us that we 
would get every information that we could desire. My lellow- 
traveller inquired whether they had a doctor, and on being an- 
swered in the affirmative, he was sent for, and as he could also 
talk the English language, and was moreover very agreeable in his 
manners, and an excellent botanist, we were happy in the proffer 
of his services. We had next a visit from Mr. Rapp, his sons, 
and several other members of the society. The old man's face 
beamed with intelligence, and he appeared to have a conscious- 
ness of having performed a good work ; but he could not speak 
English, and as we could only communicate our sentiments by 
an interpreter, we had but little conversation with him. Having 
collected a great variety of information regarding the society, we 
took a walk round the town, viewed the creek on which it is built, 
and returned to the inn, where we found good attendance, and ex- 
cellent accommodations. 

At sun-risenext morning we heard the bell ring, and in a quarter of 
an hour thereafter, the people were at their respective employments ; 
all was bustle and activity. The innkeeper accompanied us to see 
the society's shepherds and sheep. We passed Conaquenesing creek, 
by a wooden bridge, ornamented with flowers, and observed a low 
meadow on our leit, which we were informed had been drained 
with a good deal of labour, and was now converted into excellent 
pasture ground; a pleasure garden called the labyrinth, and a 
botanic garden, being in the east end of it, right opposite to the 
bi'idge. Beyond this, on the side of the creek, were various 
houses for dying, fulling, and dressing cloth. The ground rises 
to a considerable elevation on the nortli side of the creek, and on 
our way up we perceived about 100 sheep, which we were told 
had just arrived from Washington, Pennsylvania, and had not 
yet been distributed among the main flock. On arriving at the 
sheep-pens, we found the flock to consist of about 1000, and they 
were separated into three divisions. The first were all of the me- 
rino breed, the most of them full blooded ; the second about half 
merinos and half common ; and the third were all common, with 
some merino rams amongst them. They were under the charge 
of three shepherds, who sleep beside them all night in moveable 
tenls ; and a watchman from the town attends them during the 
niglu. We were informed that the society intended to increase 
the flock, as fast as possible, to 3000 ; and to progress with the 



JPENNSYLVANIA. 325 

manufacture of woollen eloth, which they found very lucrative, as 
fast as circumstances would permit. 

After breakfast we visited the different branches of manufacture. 
In the wool-loft, eight or ten women were employed in teasing 
and sorting the wool for the carding machine, which is at a dis- 
tance on the creek. From thence the roves are brought to the 
spinning-house, in the town, where we found two roving billies 
and six spinning jennies at work. They were principally wrought 
by young girls, and they appeared perfectly happy, singing church 
music most melodiously. In the weaving-house 16 looms were 
at work, besides several warpers and winders. 

In our way through the tovvii we observed shoemakers, taylors, 
and saddlers at work ; and we passed on to view the smith-work, 
which is very extensive. They have 4 or 5 forges for ordinary 
work, and one for nails, at which we were diverted by observing a 
dog turning a wheel for blowing the bellows. It brought to my re- 
collection the remark made on the English by Dr. Franklin's nepro 
boy, " Dese people make ebery thing workee, only de hop*." 

From the blacksmith's we passed to the barns, which, we were 
told contained a stock of grain sufficient to last a year, and that 
it was the intention of the society to keep up that stock ; but they 
did not mean to raise any grain for sale, their object being to ap- 
ply all the surplus labour of the society to manufactures. Con- 
tiguous to the barns h an orchard, containing about 25 acres of 
ground, well stocked with grafted fruit-trees, though they have 
not yet come to maturity. A hemp-brake, on a new construc- 
tion, the model of which they got from Kentucky, was behind the 
barns. It is driven by two horses, and is found to answer remark- 
ably well. In this neighbourliood is the brew-house : but it was 
not in operation when we saw it. It is a convenient building, 
and at the back of it is a hop-garden, and part of the hops- were 
growing in at the windows. We likewise observed them growing 
~tery luxuriantly in most of the gardens in the town; so that the 
materials for beer and porter must be very abundant. We had 
some of the porter at the tavern, of as good quality as I have ever 
tasted in London. 

After dinner we visited the soap and candle works; the dye 
works ; shearing and dressing works ; the turners, carpenters, and 
machine-makers ; and, finally, we were conducted through the 
warehouses, which wc foun<l plentifully stored with commodities; 



326 TRiVELS IN 

among others, we saw 450 pieces of broad and narrow clotli, part 
of it of merino wool, and of as good a fabric as any that was ever 
made in England. We were told that they could sell the best 
broad cloth, as fast as made, at 10 dollars per yard. 

From the warehouses we went to the Labyrinth, which is a most 
elegant flower-garden, with various hedge-rows, disposed in such 
a manner as to puzzle people to get into the little temple, emble- 
matical of Harmony, in the middle. Mr. Rapp abruptly left us 
as wc entered, and we soon observed him over the hedge-rows, 
taking his seat before the house. I found my way with difficulty ; 
but the doctor, whom I left on purpose, could not find it, and 
Mr. Rapp had to point it out to him. The garden and temple 
are emblematical. The Labyrinth represents the difficulty of arriv- 
ing at Harmony. The temple is rough in the exterior, showing 
that, at a distance, it has no allurements ; but it is smooth and 
beautiful within, to show the beauty of harmony when once at- 
tained. 

From the Labyrinth we went to the Botanic garden, which is 
well stored with valuable plants and herbs ; and the two doctors 
pored over them more than an hour. We afterwards went to the 
doctor's house, where he showed us an elegant collection ofplants, 
all natives of Harmony, which he had carefully arranged agreea- 
bly to the Linnsean system. 

In the evening the society assembled to divine service, and we 
attended, accompanied by our innkeeper, who conducted us to 
a seat appropriated for strangers. The church was quite full, the 
number of persons bsing not less than 500. The women sat all 
in one end ; the men in the other. They were singing a hymn, 
in which they all joined with one accord, and so simply, yet so 
sweetly, did they sing, that it brought to my recollection the pas- 
sage in Bui'ns' Cotter's Saturday Night: 

Tliey chaurit their artless notes in simple guise, 
Tliey tune their hearts, by far the noblest aim. 

After singing, they all knelt down to prayer. We followed their 
example ; and never did I pray more devoutly. I did not under- 
stand one word of the prayer ; but I saw that this interesting so- 
ciety were under the influence of the spirit of God, and that 
*' they worshipped him with reverence, and with godly fear." 
Tears of joy came into my eyes as I exclaimed mentally, 
" This, indeed, is true Christianity ; — this, unlike the solemn 



rENNSYLVAKIA. 



S!27 



,; mockeries of interested priests, who have turned religion into a 
I trade, and the temple of the Lord into a den of theives — this is 
! worshipping God in spirit and in trutli. It contributes to true 
{ felicity here, and prepares the soul for consummate bliss hereafter." 
'; After prayer, Mr. Rapp delivered a sermon with great animation, 
ji to which all the congregation paid the most devout attention; 
I after which, with a short prayer and benediction, he dismissed 
ij the assembly. 

I Our guide told us to remain a little, as they had, on our ac- 
count, requested the band of music to attend. They assembled 
1 before the pulpit with their various instruments, namely, three 
I violins and a bass, a clarinet, a flute, and two French horns. 
i, On these they entertained us with a great variety of airs, the most 
i of them of the solemn kind, and some of them accompanied by 
' vocal music. 

'j After our return to the inn, we heard the nioht-v.atch callinir, 

I " Again a day is past, and a step made nearer to our end ; our 

time runs away, and the joys of Heaven are our reward." They 

repeat the latter sentence at 11, 12, 1, and 2 o'clock, and at 3 

they call, " Again a night is past, and ths morning is come ; our 

i time runs away, and the joys of Heaven are our reward." 

The town is watched by two men, and the society take it by 
j turns. It falls, at present, on each 14 nights in the year; the 
I watching of the sheep falls on each one night. 

August 22d. This day, accompanied by the society's doctor, 
j we went to see the mills and machinery. In our way we passed 
! through one of the vineyards, which is situated en the face of a 
steep hill, on the north side of the creek, and is converted into a 
number of terraces, supported by walls of stone, in the manner 
that they cultivate the hills in China. We ascended by a rcTu- 
lar flight of 137 steps; and from the tO[) we had a fine view of the 
whole settlement, and of the coimtry round. We were told it 
was the intention of the society to build a little temple here, to bo 
called Ilarmony Hall, where they would occasionally practise 
music. From thence we went to the eastward about a mile, 
through a wood, and came to a cultivated valley, through which 
runs Little Conaquenesing creek. Llero the society have built a 
substantial stone house, in which are a grist-mill, a hemp-mill, an 
oil-mill, a fulling-mill, and a carding machine. In the oil-mill 
they crush pumpkin-seed, which yields good oil, and food for the 



S'^ 



TRAVELS IN 



cattle. We crossed over the valley, which abounded with grain, 
clover, and hemp, about a mile, to Large Conaquenesing creek 
where the masons and labourers were at work building a very ele- 
gant mill of hewn stone, which, when finished, will be a most im- 
portant addition to the society's improvements. It is impossible 
to convey any adequate idea of the diligent industry and persever- 
ance of this extraordinary people : wherever we went we found them 
all activity and contentment. Here, at a situation where they could 
not carry the clay for bedding the dam in wheel- barrows, they were 
carrying it in baskets upon their backs ; but they have every in- 
ducement to perseverance — they are all on an equal footing — every 
member is equally interested in the good of the society. 

In tliis neighbourhood the society have a village, where the doc- 
tor having to visit a patient, who was the superintendant, we ac- 
companied him. On entering the house we found the family at din- 
ner, and we were invited to partake of it. We did not much like 
the appearance of the dish, which was called noodles; but on tast- 
ing it we found it to be very palatable, and on it, and some eggs, 
with bread and milk, we made a very excellent dinner. Noodles 
is made in this way : a quantity of flour is kneaded into a paste, 
and is cut into small slices ; these are mixed with small pieces of beef 
or mutton, and they are boiled together, with or without seasoning, 
as the taste of the cook may determine. 

We returned to the town, about a mile and a half distant, and 
in our way passed the brick-works and burial-ground ; which last 
is prettily situated on a sloping ground, railed in : but no grave- 
stones are erected, — the plan of the society being to ornament it 
with flowers. 

In the course of our journey the doctor told us a remarkable a- 
nccdote. One of the boys at school was observed, one day, to weep, 
and on being asked what was the matter, he said he was afraid he 
had been very wicked. A number of the others caught the infection, 
and began also to cry. It ultimately pervaded the whole school, 
and nothing would satisfy the children until they called on Mr. 
Rapp, the pastor, and made a confession of their transgressions. 
From the young, the spirit of contrition fell upon the more mature 
in years, who, one by one, waited upon Mr. Eapp, to make their con- 
fession. Of the number was the doctor, who told us he found him- 
self impelled by an impulse which was irresistible to wait on Mr, 
Rapp also : to him he laid open his whole heart; on which the old 



PENNSYLVANIA. 3^9 

man pressed him to his bosom, told him that now he knew his whole 
soul, and those of the othei- members of the society, he had perfect 
confidence in them, and was assured that they would persevere in 
the good work they had begun, which would be a life of heavenly 
joy and rejoicing in this world, and it would terminate in a state of 
everlasting felicity in the next. 

On our return to the village we went to see the bee-hives. They 
were situated in a shed, built on purpose, with a southei'n exposure, 
and a flowering shrubbery was in front of them. There were a- 
bout 40 hives, and they appeared all in a thriving condition, and 
equally industrious with their employers; who, in return, bestowed 
great attention upon them, and touk the produce of their surplus 
labour without destroying their lives. 

We were informed that the society got a considerable quantity 
of their materials tor manufactures from their own produce, and 
from the country round. Wrought iron they get from Pitts- 
burg, and cast iron from Beaver. They keep an assortment of dry- 
goods and groceries, which they get principally from Philadelphia; 
and, as they dispose of them at a moderate profit, they have an ex- 
tensive sale in the country. They dress cloth to the country people 
from 50 to GO miles distant. 

The town of Harmony is situated on the south side of Conaque- 
neslng creek, and the property of the society extends round it; to 
the west about half a mile ; to the east two miles and a half; to the 
north about three miles ; and to the south three miles. They have 
about 9000 acres of land, of which 2500 acres are in a state of cul- 
tivation ; and, besides the town, they have three farming viilaores, 
and some farmers in detached parts of the settlement. The lanrl 
is pretty fertile, producing abundantly grain, grass, fruit, vegeta- 
bles, hemp, and flax. 

The town is regularly laid out. There is a square of 75 by 10>) 
feet, in the middle; and three streets run east and west, and three 
north and south, crossing one another at right angles;. Tlie main 
street is 50 feet wide, and the others 32 feet. The town is subdivid- 
ed into lots of a quarter of an acre each, and every family has its 
own house and lot, with a couple of milk cows, and as many Logs 
and poultry as they choose to keep. The rest of their j)rovisions, 
and their clothing, is furnished by the society; in return, their la- 
bour falls into the common stock. Hence every family is in effect, 
independent within itself, as far as domestic arrangements are con- 

42 



S30 TRAVELS IN 

ceriied ; and tlicy are all united, at the same time, in a body, the 
joint effect of whose labour is irresistible. The town at present con- 
sists mostl}' of" log-houses ; but as soon as the public buildings are 
finished, a brick-house is to be built for each member. 

The society now consists of about 800 persons ; and the operative 
members arc nearly as follow : 100 farmers, three shepherds, 10 
masons, three stone-cutters, three brick-makers, 10 carpenters, two 
sawyers, 10 smiths, two wag-jron-makers, three turners, two iiailors, 
seven coopers, three rope -makers, 10 shoemakers, two saddlers, 
three tanners, seven taylors, one soap-boiler, one brewer, four dis- 
tillers, one gardener, two grist-millei's, two oil-millers, one butcher 
six joiners, six dyers, dressers, shearers, &c., one fuller, two hatters, 
two potters, two warpers, 17 weavers, two carders, eight spinners, 
one rover, one minister of religion, one schoolmaster, one doctor, 
one store-keeper with two sssistants, and one tavern-keeper with 
one assistant. 

The basis of the society is religion, and all their temporal con- 
cerns are managed in subserviency to it. The greater part of the 
p.'ople v>cre bred in the Lutheran persuasion, and their views of re- 
ligion are nearly in conformity to it ; but the principles which bind 
them together as a society may be shortly expressed : love to god — 

GOODWILL TOWARDS MEN — PURITY OF LIFE AND A COMMUNITY 

OF GOODS. The pastor is considered as having the call of God ; 
his prayers and sermons are delivered extempore : and if he be in- 
disposed or absent, the society meet and confer on religious sub- 
jects. He is assisted in the management of the religious concerns 
by elders mid deacons a})poiuted by the society. 

The youth of the society are kcjit at school until they are 14; years 
old. The school hours are in the forenoon, and the afternoon is de- 
voted to such labour as they can easily perform, it being a branch 
of the economy of the society to teach the youth to labour as well as 
to read and write. 1 hey are tauglit both the German and English 
languages, with writing and Arithmetic, and such as may be des- 
tined for the study of medicine will receive a college education. At 
li the male 3'oulhs mako ciioice of a profession, and learn it where 
il is carried on in tlie society. The females, at the same age, are 
occupied in the Uaual branches of female labour. 

On Sunday the society meet in their religious capacity, at 9 
o'clock, in the school -room, to examine the children, who exhibit 
tiilferent specimens of their performances. This endo about 11. 



PENNSYLVANIA. ^'^^ 

They meet In the church at 12, when they go through the same ex- 
ercises as those before noticed, which lasts about an hour and a half. 
They have another meeting at 6 o'clock in the evening ; and besides 
the meetings on Sunday, they have a sermon two nights in the 
week. There is no instance of the church beingneglccted by those 
who are well and able to walk. It is tlieir delight to attend it, and 
the religious and moral deportment of the whole society is highly 
praiseworthy. There is no vicious habit among them. Tliere is 
not an instance of swearing, or lying, or debauchery of any kind 5 
and as to cheating, so commonly practised in civihzed society, they 
have no temptation to it whatever. As individuals, they have no 
use for money— and they have no fear of want. 

The temporal concerns are conducted in a very orderly manner, 
havincr superintendants in each branch, who manage them under 
the ge^neral direction of the society. There are five master farmers, 
one master mason, one master shoemaker, (who cuts out all the lea- 
ther,) one master taylor, and so on of the other branches. Frcder- 
ick Rapp superintends the manufacturing establishment; and h:,. 
the general direction, under the society, of all the money matters, 

and mercantile concerns. , i r i • 

When the society was first established here, the whole of then- 
property, after defraying their expences, amounted to only about 
20 000 dollars, and this was scon exhausted in the payment of 
the land, and in supporting themselves until they could brnig their 
industry into operation. Thus, without money, and without credit, 
they suffered crreat privations, in consequence of which a number 
of their members shrunk from the difficulty, and retired nito the 
state of Ohio, to provide for themselves in a separate capacity. As 
they required what they had put into the common stock, the so- 
ciety were thrown into some difficulty to raise it; but they got it 
accomplished, and they have now drawn up written articles, to be 
sicrned by those who join them, calculated to prevent any inconve- 
ni^'ence of that kind in future. By those articles, such as may 
chooce to retire are entided to demand all that they put into the 
concern by certain instalments, but no interest. Any person may 
join the society, and the mode of doing so Is equally simple with all 
their other regulations. The candidate intimates his mtention, 
and is received upon trial, for one month, during which he lives at 
the tavern. If he is then satisfied, and chooses to conform to their 
principles of morahtv, (they have no religious test,) he is forthwith 



332 



TRAVELS IN 



received as a member, and is entitled to all the privileges of the so- 
ciety. If he is rich, he deposites all his property in the common 
stock : if he is pool*, " he has no lack ;" all his wants are supplied 
but of that stock. 

The stock of the society we estimated as follows : 

9000 acres of land, with imiirovements dol. 90,000 

Stock of provisions for one year, for 800 persons 25,000 

Mills, machinery, and public buildings 21,000 

Dwelling houses 18,000 

Horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry 10,000 
1000 sheep, one-third of them merinos, of which 

one ram cost 1000 dollars 6,000 
Stock of goods, spirits, manuflictures, leather, 

implements of husbandry, &c. &c. 50,000 



dol. 220,000 



It may be remarked, that the society purchased their land for 
about 20,000 dollars, so that 70,000 dollars of the rise is upon it ; 
but they have cleared 2500 acres, which adds to the value of the 
rest, and the rise of the land in this way is always a favourable 
circumstance to new settlers, who, on the other hand, have 
many privations to undergo. 

It has been doubted whether the society will continue united, on 
which alone depends their prosperity. From the principles on whicli 
the connexion is formed, and the objects they have in view, I "am of 
opinion they will not only continue united, but that they will, in all 
probability, be a model for other societies. If their union continue, 
their prospects are bright indeed, both for time and eternity. 
Here they have the mutual aid of each other, and are free from 
a thousand temptations to which mankind in general are subjected. 
Having no fear of want, they have literally no care for the mor- 
row; they have no use for money, " the love of which is the root 
of all evil ;" they can attend to the worship of the great spirit 
with single hearts, and undivided minds, and all the duties of life 
are easy, because they go hand in hand with self-interest; in health 
they have the fellowship of people of the like mind with themselves ; 
in sickness they have the advice and assistance of friends, on whom 
they can rely with perfect confidence; of a medical man who can 
have no wish but to render them a service ; and of a minister of 






PENNSYLVANIA. 

l^ligion to pour the balm of spiritual consolation into tlicir wound- 
ed spirits, « without money, and without price ;" at death they can 
resign their offspring to the charge of the society, in the full con- 
fidence of their well-being; which single circumstance disarms the 
grim messenger of more than half his terrors. And the purity of 
their life havmg fitted them for tKe enjoyment of God, they can 
resign their spirits into the hands of the merciful Father of spirits ;^ 
and'their bodies being consigned to the dust, among the abodes of 
their brethren, their graves are so many memorials of their virtues. 
On taking my leave, I breathed forth my best wishes for the 
prosperity of this interesting society, in the words of my favourite 
bard — 

May freedom, harmony, and love. 

Unite you in the grand design, 
Beneath the Omniscient eye above, 

The glorious Architect divine ! 
That you may keep th' unerring line, 

Still rising by the plummet's law, 
Till order bright completely shine. 

Shall be my prayer when far awa'. 

We rode round by Zelionople, half a mile from Harmony, 
where the society first attempted to fix their town ; but some differ- 
ence happening between them and the proprietor of the grounds, 
they moved to the eastward, where they are now situated; and Ze- 
lionople looks like « a deserted village," having a few miserable 
wooden houses only. 

On our return, ray travelling companion, who was remarkably 
agreeable, pointed out a great number of valuable plants and 
herbs, and gave me a little insight into the important science of 
botany; but I found the field so extensive, that I was obliged to de- 
cline follovving up the study till a more convenient season. I em- 
braced the opportunity however of remarking to my friend, that it 
would be an object of great scientific importance to the United 
States, if some fit person would make a botanical and mineralogi- 
cal tour ; and I was convinced he would be very well rewarded for 
his trouble by the public. My friend acquiesced in ray opinion, 
and stated that nothing would give him more pleasure than to exe- 
cute such a tour, of which he had some intention at a future period. 
We reached Pittsburg at 9 o'clock at night, when, delivering up 
our " sorry hacks," we pursued our way to our old lodgings. 



S3k TRAVELS OS 

CHAPTER LXIX. 

Ohio Bivei'j — Beaver^ — Georgetcw77, — Stuhenville. 

JL NOW prepared to descend the Ohio. There are various way* 
of travelling on that river, and the traveller must adapt himself 
to one or other of these, according to the state of the water. In 
spring and fall the river is high, and can be navigated with case 
by any vesseh The spring freshets commence about the middle of 
February, at the breaking up of the ice, and continue for three, 
sometimes four months. Those in the fall commence in Octoter, 
and continue till the middle or latter end of December. But the 
state of the river varies according to the wetness or dryness of the 
seasons, and the earliness or lateness of the setting in of the 
winter.* 

The principal vessels used for descending the Ohio, are canoes, 
skiffs, Kentucky and New Orleans boats, keel boats, and barges. 
Ships have been constructed on the Ohio, of considerable burden ; 
but that trade is at present nearly suspended, and the steam-boats 
have not yet gone into operation. 

Canoes are the most simple of all vessels, and consist of a log of 
w'ood shaped into a long boat, and excavated in the middle, so as 
to accommodate passengers and their travelling equipage. They 
sell for from one to three dollars. 

Skiffs are well known. They are built of all sizes, are used with 
or without sails, and can be had for from 5 to 30 dollars. 

Kentucky and New Orleans boats are flats, with sides boarded 
like a house, about six or seven feet high, over which there is an 
arched roof. They are of various sizes, but generally large enough 
to contain 400 barrels of flour ; and sell for from one dollar to a 
dollar and a half per foot in length. 

Keel-boats, so called from being built upon a small keel, are con- 
structed to draw but little water, so that they are remarkably well 
adapted to the navigation of these rivers, and as they are strongly 
manned, and ply both upward and downward, they are getting into 
general use, and are perhaps the best passage boats on the Ohio. 
The price of them is about two and a half or three dollars per foot. 

Barges are well known. They also sail up and down the river; 

* Pittsburg Navigator. 



THE OHIO RIVER. 335 

but this species of vessel is principally used below Cincinnati and 
the falls. 

The water was very low when I was at Pittsburg, and was still 
subsiding ; and I learned that it was with difficulty that any vessel 
could descend, except a skiff. A Mr. Ward, from Massach assets, 
had made the attempt in a keel-boat, but it was set fast, and he 
was obliged to return to Pittsburg. I found that he had made 
an arrangement with the Frenchman, my former fellow-traveller, 
to go with him in a skiff; and I made interest to be of their partv, 
and was admitted. 

The Frenchman was an original genius. He had travelled far 
and wide, b}' sea and land ; he could talk three or four different 
languages ; he had been at as many different professions ; he was, 
in short, a Jack of all trades, and his name was Jean Baptist Sy- 
mons. As seamanship was. one of his professions, we confided the 
care of the boat to him and Mr. Ward, and I procured the neces- 
sary provisions. The skiff was a small vessel, belonging to Mr. 
Symons, having a mast and sail, two oars, a setting pole, and an 
awning over the stern. Our stock of provisions was a large bacon 
ham, two loaves of bread, and some cheese, which we put in a 
box ; a quantity of crackers, some whiskey, and a small cask of 
porter. Tliese articles, together with our trunks, we put on board 
the skiff, and stepping on board ourselves, in the Monongahela 
river, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we got under weigh. Having 
HO wind, we had to man our oars ; and, the river being low, we 
had but little assistance from the current. 

The banks of the river are steep, and rise to a considerable ele- 
vation, when there is generally a body of level ground on each side, 
called bottoms, from whence the river hills rise to the heio-ht of 
from 200 to 500 feet. The bottoms are very various in extent, 
some of them being a mile broad, and others only a few yards. 
Being a depositc of rich earth from the rivei', they are very fertile. 

On entering the Ohio, we had a fine view of the two rivers of 
which it is composed, and of the remarkable contrast between their 
waters; those of the INIonongahela being muddy, and those of tlie 
Allegany quite pure and transparent. The distinction can ba 
noticed a considerable way down the Ohio. The Ohio is here about 
600 yards broad, and its course is north-west. The afternoon was 
dear, warm, and pleasant; and we had an agreeable sail, during 
ttJiich we passed several islands, to a small tavern on the right 



536 TRAVELS ON 

hand, 12 miles from Pittsburg, Avhere we stopped for the nifrhf. 
The lands thus far are, to use a common expression here, all taken 
tipy and the price is about 10 or 12 dollars per acre The scenery 
is rich, and the banks of the river abound with coal and freestone. 
The principal timber is walnut, cherr}', hickory, and sycamore. 

August 24th. This morning we started at 6 o'clock. The fog 
was so thick on the river that we could hardly see 10 yards round 
us. The thermometer stood at 54° in the air, and 74° in the water. 
We engaged a young man to take us over a bar, here called a rip- 
j)le, a little way below, and taking the oars, he carried us along very 
swiftly. As our appetites were a little whetted by the water air, we 
looked to our provisions, and behold, our large ham was gone ! 
We accused the dogs ; but the young man bore testimony to their 
honesty, and told us it must have been stolen by the wolves. It was 
the wolves sure enough. We discovered the tracks of their feet upon 
the skiff, and some of their strong hair was found upon the box, 
which we thence called the iwlf-box ; and our Frenchman consoled 
himself for the loss of our ham by cursing and damning the wolves. 

The day cleared up about 8 o'clock, when we stopped for break- 
fast at the plantation of a Mr. M'Donald, who told us his father 
was (I Scotsman. He had a good plantation, on a fine bottom ; but 
it had been lately overflowed by the river, which swept away the 
fences, and otherwise greal]y injured the property. 

After breakfast we were overtaken by an Indian canoe, and we 
entered into conversation with the natives, who we found could 
talk tlie English language quite fluently. We learned that they 
were from the neighbourhood of Utica, in the state of New York, 
wljere the Indians are considerably improved in agriculture, and 
they were under the direction of a society of quakers, on a mission 
to White Water river, in the Indiana territory, to teach that sci- 
ence to an Indian tribe scttlexl there. We sailed together to Bea- 
ver, 30 milca below Pittsburg, where we stopped a short time, and 
engaged one of them to pull our boat. 

Beaver is situated on the north side of the Ohio river, a little 
below Beaver creek, and is on a high stony plain ; but it does not 
appear to be thriving. It has about 30 houses, a jail, post-office, 
and three or four taverns and stores. Beaver creek is 60 yards 
wide at its mouth, and is navigable by small vessels about 50 miles 
into the interior of the country. An iron furnace, and a number 
«f grist 9nd §A>v-:iniUs have been erected on this creek. 



THE OHIO EIVER. 337 

On setting out, our Indian, who had been accustomed to the pad- 
dle only, made a sad plashing and floundering in the water with 
the oars ; but it was not long before he got into the knack of it, 
and pulled away pretty well. We had but a poor bargain of him, 
however, and soon discovered that he was, to use a Scots phrase, " a 
drou thy neighbour," and he did like the j3Az5^3/, as he termed ^^> 
Tiiost dearly. We proceeded to Georgetown, 12 miles from Beaver, 
where we stopped for the night. 

Georgetown is situated on an eminence, on the left bank of the 
river, and consists of only a few dwelling«houses, two stores, and a 
post-office. There is an air-spring in the river near this place. 

August 25th. We started from Georgetown at 6 o'clock; the 
morning was foggy ; the thermometer stood at 56°. A little below 
Georgetown we passed the Pennsylvania slate-line, and we now sail- 
ed between the states of Ohio and Virginia. Fourteen miles be- 
low Georgetown we passed Yellow creek, in the state of Ohio, on 
which we were told there was a thriving settlement of emigrants 
from Scotland; and a little beyond the creek, amidst elegant sce- 
nery, on the river's bank, we drew up our boat under a delightful 
shady grove, and had dinner. We had at Georgetown purchased 
a couple of broiled chickens, for twelve and a half cents, on part of 
which we breakfasted without stopping the bout, and the remainder 
now constituted our dinner. — Cheap travelling. The scenery con- 
tinued elegant all the way to Steubenville, 30 miles from George- 
town, which we reached near dark. 

Steubenville is situated on an elevated second bank of the river. 
It was laid out in 1798, and consists now of nearly 200 dwelling- 
houses, and 880 inhabitants. The buildings are handsome and com- 
modious, a great many of them being of brick. The public build- 
ings area court-house, jail, church, a bank, a land-office, post-office, 
and printing-office. There are seven taverns, and 12 stores, and 
the town is increasing, but not rapidly. 

As it was Sunday evening when we landed, and as we started before 
the land-office was open, 1 had not an opportunity of making a par- 
ticular inquiry regarding Steubenville District. The few facts which 
came to my knowledge I shall here communicate. It extends from 
the Connecticut reservation on the north to the Marietta district on 
the south, a distance of 72 miles ; and its extreme breadth at the 
north cjid is GO milea, at the south end 42. Its area is about 2900 



4-3 



333 TRAVELS ON ^ 

square miles; and embraces nearly four counties, containing hhout 
42,000 inhabitants, all settled here within 20 years. 

The Ohio river washes the eastern part of the district upwards of 
60 miles, and in all this distance, except in the bottoms, the country 
on the margin of the river is rather rough ; but further back there 
is much good land, and the settlements on it are numerous and very 
important; it is remarkably well watered, there being upwards of 
20 streams that run into the Ohio, besides those that run into the 
Muskingum and Lake Erie ; and the head waters of all these being 
situated in the district, shows that it must be an elevated coimtry. 
These rivers are mostly fed by springs, and they drive a great quan- 
tity of machinery. The timber is oak, hickory, walnut, maple, cher- 
ry, locust, &c. The climate is temperate and healthy ; and judg- 
ing- from the countenances of the^/Jr/V at Steubenvillc, I should sup- 
pose entirely congenial to human life. There are numerous towns 
erected in this district, and the buildings keep pace with the pros- 
perity of the people, which is increasing most rapidly. Agricultur- 
ists and mechanics are, of course, the principal inhabitants; they 
are all operative people, and have made " the wilderness to blossom 
as the rose." The roads, bridges, and other improvements all bear 
testimony to the industry of the inhabitants, who are mostly from 
the New England states, than whom a more industrious people were 
never, and I question whether any other were ever so well adapted 
to the settlement of a new country. 

The United States' lands are sold at two dollars per acre, and a 
great portion of them still remains undisposed of in this district ; 
but not of the best quality. What is in private hands may be reck- 
oned worth from 10 to 12 dollars on the bottoms of the Ohio, and 
from three to five dollars in the interior of the country. Farmers 
and mechanics are best adapted to the country, and every sort of 
manufactures that constitute the necessaries of life are in demand, 
for which the materials are all on the spot in abundance, except 
cotton ; and it is brought up the river to Steubenvillc, at about four 
cents per pound. Upon the whole, this is a flourishing district* 
and will, in all probability, doubW its peculation in 10 years. 



THE OHIO RIVER. 339 

CHAPTER LXX. 

iVheeling, — Long Iteac/i, — Marietta. 

August seth, we left Steubenville about 8 o'clock ; the morn- 
ing was foggy; the temperature of the atmosphere 60". We pro- 
ceeded down the river three miles, when, Mr. Ward having some 
inquiries to n7ake, we stopped at a very liandsome plantation, situ- 
ated on the Ohio side, on an extensive bottom, which raised corn, 
oats, barley, hemp, wheat, and rye, in great abundance ; and there 
was a peach orchard literally loaded with fruit. " There was e- 
nough, and, to spare," here, of both clingstones and Jreestones ; 
and having ate heartily, we took a supply in our boat. On moving 
off from the bank an Irishman of the name of Hanlon requested we 
would carry him about two miles, and land him on the other side 
of the river, which we agreed to, and he gave us a good deal of in- 
formation regarding that part of the country. He told us that he 
was a boat-builder, and had removed from Philadelphia to this 
country, where he had resided five years. He liked this country 
much better than Philadelphia, principally on account of its tem- 
perate climate, and the ease with which he could procure a liveli- 
hood. The summers here are much cooler, and the winters much 
warmer than to the eastward. He could make one dollar 50 cents 
per day, and the expense of boarding was only one dollar 50 cents 
per week. 

Six miles from Steubenville we passed Charleston, a neat little 
t^ce, situated on the Virginia side, on a high bank. We did not 
land here ; but we were told it was an excellent flour market, which 
commodity sells at present at four dollars per barrel. We dined 
by the way on broiled chickens, which we purchased at Steuben- 
ville, for six and a quarter cents each ; and after a very agreeable 
sail we reached W^heeling, 23 miles from Steubenville, {it five 
o'clock in the evening. 

On landing here, we found the Indian canoe had got before US, 
Mid our rower went to join his companions. The master of the 
boat came and informed us, that his man was not to pull any more 
for us, because we had not used him well. We were s-arprised, 
and inquired what was the matter. It was sinijily this — we had 
not given him 'sxlmkey enough. We had noticed that he frequently 



340 TRAVELS ON 

stopped, and called out " I tire, I tire," which we thought im- 
possible, as he was a very stout fellow, and required an explanation. 
" O, me no tire,'' says he, " what you call tire ; when I say / tirey 
then that is, Iiannt plii&keyr ^5/?zV7Vz^aZ explanation, faith! We 
increased his libation, but not to an extent, it appeared, to meet 
his magnificent ideas, and his red worship was quite dissatisfied 
that we poured it out for him in a glass; he must have the whole 
bottle, forsooth, to his head ! This however we would not indulge 
him in. The truth is, we had laid it down as a rule to be very 
circumspect in giving him whiskey, and, though we had given him 
a great quantity in all, we gave him but a moderate dose at a time, 
and it was always diluted with water. The Indian did not half 
like this, and made the complaint to his captain already noticed. 
As we found him to be useful, we were unwilling to part with him 
for a trifle, so, after paying his wages, we promised to give him 
the bottle to his head next day, every time he cx'ied " I tire," and 
lie agreed to continue with us. But the wages never found the way 
to the bottom of his Indianship's pocket; it was instantly laid out 
in whiskey, and in a short time he appeared on the beach as royal- 
ly drunk as ever a royal duke among them all, inquiring whether 
there Mas a tavern on the other side of the river ; which being an- 
sv.crcd in the afTn matlve, he jumped into the water, and bad actu- 
ally reached the middle of it before he was brought back. 

Wheeling is situated on a high bank, on the Virginia sid^-, and 
lias nothing prepossessing in its appearance. Some ponds in the 
neighbourhood of the town had polluted the air, and a great many 
of the inhabitants had been seized with a bihous fever, and fever 
and ague ; being the first sickness I had heard of since 1 passed 
the banks of the Susquehanna. 

The improvements do not seem to keep pace on the Virginia 
side, with those in the state of Ohio, and it is very questionable 
whether this will ever be a place of much consequence, although 
the situation appears favourable, the great road to the western 
country passing through it. But the existence of slavery is a damp- 
er upon the operations of the white people, " who will not work if 
they have slaves to work for them," and, idleness being the parent - 
of vice, society degenerates: good men seek out a situation more 
congenial to the practice of virtue, and " evil men and seducers 
wax worse and worse." 

As we stood upon the beach at this place, a lurge skiff drew to-. 



IPUE OHIO RIVER. 341 

wards the shore, in which the proprietor had four negro children, 
the oldest about 11, the youngest about 4 years oi" age. He told 
us that he had left his Iiouie, in Maryland, with the children, and 
their father and mother, in order to carry them down the river, to 
a market. Finding that he could dispose of the man by the way 
to advantage, he had sold him. The night after, the woman 
(whom he reproached as an unnatural wretch for leaving her chil- 
dren) had ran away, and he was obliged to go on with the children 
without her ! The three youngest had not reflection enough to feel 
their loss; they jumped out of the boat, and played about upon 
the sand : they were pretty children. But the eldest sat in the 
boat, the emblem of heart-rending grief and despair ! — I do not 
know that in the whole course of my life I ever Jiad my feelings 
so severely tried. I hid my face with my hands, that those accus- 
tomed to such scenes might not perceive my weakness, and witli a 
heavy heart walked towards the inn, praying that the Merciful Dis- 
poser of all things would, in the course of his providence, provide 
for these poor innocents, who are doomed to slavery, a more gentle 
master than the hard-hearted man who at present possessed an ab- 
solute dominion over them. 

Tuesday, the 27th of August. We started at 8 o'clock. The 
morning had been foggy, but was now clear. The thermometer 
stood at 60°. The scenery on the river continues nearly the same 
as above ; the banks are high, with pretty large bottoms, particu- 
larly on the Virginia side. We tried to accommodate matters 
with our friend the Indian, but without eiFect. We found he was 
" tire" every quarter of an hour, and, as often as he put the bottlg 
to his head, he beckoned to his companions to come along side, and 
the " phiskey" went round the wholegang before we could get it 
back again. They swallowed half a gallon of it in the course of 
a few hours, which did not comport with our economical mode of 
travelling, at all, at all ; and we were soon deprived of our In- 
dian's service too; for he was drunk by 12 o'clock, and lay like 
a great lump of mortal pollution in the boat ; so we were glad to 
toss him into the Indian canoe " like a bag of oat?;" and, taking 
what the sailors call " spell and spell about" of the oars ourselves 
we moved on with considerable celerity. A little after dark, we 
reached Dickassou's tavern, on the Virginia side, where we stopped 
.ill niojit. 

JO 

Here we were iuformed that llie country is but little cultivated 



34^3 TRAVELS ON 

back from the rivei*, and those who lived in it v.Ished to he on thtf 
river side, to have the benefit of a market. T.and on the river is 
U'orth from 8 to 10 dollars, partly improved; but some sells as 
high as 15 or 20 dollars. Horses are worth from 20 to 70 dollars ; 
cows from lO to 1 !• dollars. Fish are plenty in the river, but they 
do not catch many, having hogs and poultry in great plenty. 
There are no musquetocs, nor other troublesome insects, in this 
part of the country. There are a variety of medicinal herbs here, 
particularly snake-root and ginseng. The Ohio freezes here in 
winter ; but there is very little snow. 

August 28th, at 6 o'clock, we left Mr. Dickasson's. The raorn-r 
ing was fogg}^ ; the thermometer stood at 64"*. The fog soon cleared 
away, and we observed that the country had now become more 
level, and the river was about 100 yards broader than at Pittsburg. 
Having arrived at Long Reach, we had a variety of charming 
views, and about the middle of it we stopped to dinner, on the 
Virginia side, at the house of a Mr. Wells, who has a thriving 
plantation, and an industrious family. Every thing indicated good 
order in the fields, and, in the house, the women were very busy 
fabricating cotton cloth, with which the whole family were sub- 
stantially clad. By a copy of the census, which hung up in the 
room, it appeared that there were not many slaves in that part of 
Virginia. The white population in the country amounted to 771] j 
the free blacks 52 ; slaves 422. 

Long Reach is 16 J miles in length. TheriVeris nearly straight 
the whole of the distance, and it embodies some fine islands. No- 
thing can exceed the variety and beauty of the views on the river 
licre. The water is as clear and smooth as glass, and the fields, on 
each side, are richly clad with fine timber, which, at a distance, 
appears to overshadow the river, and produces a fine effect. On 
looking np or down the stream, the eye roams along the pure ex- 
panse of water, which appears gradually to contract in breadth, and 
finally to be lost in a point in the woods. 

As we proceeded along this delightful reac/z, the afternoon be- 
came very sultry, and, seeing a fine peach-orchard on the Ohio 
side, we pulled towards it, to get into the shade of the trees. The 
people were mashing peaches, ])reparing to make peach-brandy, and 
one of them, learning that a New England ?nan was in company, 
saluted us with great cordiality, and led us through the peach-or- 
chard, and such an orcliard I never saw before ; the trees were 



THB OHIO RIVER. 343 

figuratively groaning under their burden, and hundreds of bushels 
were lying on the ground. It was no sin to eat peaches here ; and 
they were really delicious. 

The proprietor told us he was from Connecticut, that he had 
been a considerable time settled liere, and could maintain his fami- 
ly as well on the labour of one day iu the week, as he could in 
Connecticut in all the six. Those who were industrious, he said, 
could not fail to lay up a comfortable stock for old age, and for 
posterit}'. He informed us, that for the few first years the la- 
bour was pretty rugged and severe, as they had to cut down the 
woods, and prepare the lands, during which time they were con- 
tented with very indifferent lodgings ; but food being very easily 
procured, they always lived well. He said, when he came here 
first, the country was literally a wilderness, and we now saw the 
progress it had made in 10 years. The first settlers were selling 
their improvements, and moving off; while men of capital were 
coming in, and making elegant improvements, and, in 10 years 
more, the banks of the river here would be beautiful. The Ohio 
side, he said, was thriving remarkably; the A^rginia side not near 
so well ; and he assigned the operation of slavery as the principal 
reason, which I believe to be correct. He mentioned that the crop 
of peaches never failed on the Ohio, and the trees came to maturi- 
ty in three years. Fifteen bushels make 6 gallons of brandy, and 
they sell it at from 37^ ^o 50 cents per gallon. When they keep it 
till old, tliey get a little more. The country is all healthy here, and 
this man's family looked fully as rosy as the young folks in Con- 
necticut, and much more plump. We moved down the river 7 
miles, and stopped all night on the Ohio side, with a new settler, 
fit)m Maryland. The lodgings were indifferent ; but they were 
cheerfully given, and the landlord would make no charge. 

August 29th. We started at 6 o'clock. The morning was clear. 
The temperature was 68°. Seven miles from where we started, 
we stopped at the house of a Mr. Battelles, from New England ; 
and here we observed some as fine cheeses as I ever saw any 
where. They were prepared for the river market, and sell for 
about 12 to 15 cents per lb. We were now out of Long Reach, 
atid drawing towards an island, called the Three Brothers, where 
J was preparing my mind for a wonderful scene, first noticetl by 
an English squire of the name of Ashe, who travelled in these 
parts scmc five or six years ago, and met with marvellous adypn" 



544 TKAVFLS ON 

lures. Mr. Ashe thus describes a fall in the river: " I arrived 
at a chain of islands called the Brothers, ran down the right hand 
channel, and, on reaching the foot of the last island, perceived 
a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it in the 
form of a Z. The channel was very little broader, than the boat^ 
confined betw^een rocks, the slightest touch wotild dash her to 
pieces. I ordered the man to keep a steady stroke, not on any 
account to abandon the oars, or to be alarmed at the noise of 
the flood. The boat instantly took the first suction of the fall, 
increased in velocity to a great degree, passed through all the 
mazes of the channel, till she came to the last descent, when, tum- 
bling, tost, and regardless of her helm, she spun round and round, 
and at length sliot ahead down the sti'eam. Astonishing country ' 
Here again the hills subsided, the face of nature smiled, the cur- 
rent diifused, and the river became a perfect calm. On looking 
back to contemplate the danger I had just escaped, I could but 
faintly see the foaming surge, or hear the horrid clamour. / never 
experienced a more eventjid moment than in the passage of that 
FALL !" The reader, who has any faith in Mr. Ashe's testimony, 
will easily judge of my anxiety in appi-oaching this Jail ,• but 
tvhat was my surprize, when I came to the foot of the last island, 
to find 710 fall at all ! The river w as nearly half a mile broad, 
without any other interruption than that mentioned in the Pitts- 
burg Navigator ; " Just below the third Brother is a small vvil-. 
low island, and a sand bar; channel near the right shore." And 
yet this is magnified by Mr. Ashe into a most tremendous fall, 
to be passed onlv with immense difficultv and danger ! "What 
powerful imaginations son)e people have ! 

Nine miles below this we passed the mouth of Little Muskin- 
gum river^ and four miles further we reached Marietta, at which 
I proposed to stop some days. 



CHAPTER LXXI. 

Marietta, — Ohio Company s purchase, — Marietta District. 

JTA ART ETTA is vei-y handsomely situated at the confluence of 
the Muskingum and Ohio rivers, of both of which it commands 3 
line view. 'ITjut part of the town which lies next the Ohio is 



THE OHIO riVEH. 345 

elevated above the bed of the river 45 feet, and yet such is the 
rise of the water in some seasons, that it has been twice flooded ; 
on which account the town has lately increased most towards the 
north-west, on a second bank, and a considerable number of 
buildings have lately been erected on the opposite side of the Mus- 
kingum, which is some feet higher than the lower bank on the 
east side. The whole is handsomely laid out, and there is a great- 
er portion of public ground for walks than is to be found about 
most of the towns in this country. 

Marietta was laid out by the Ohio Conipany, about 21 years 
ago, and was intended as tlie metropolis of the New England 
western settlements. For a number of years it flourished in a very 
eminent degree, increasing in commerce, wealth, and splendour, 
and, though nearly 2000 miles from the ocean, ship-yards were 
erected, and ship-building carried on with spirit. But, of late, 
its commerce and ship-building has ceased, and it is now a dull 
place, though inhabited by a gay, lively people, mostly natives 
of Massachussetts. Its population is 1463. 

Marietta contains a number of handsome buildings on the Mas- 
sachusetts plan, which is elegant, light, and comfortable. The 
principal public building is a very handsome church. A bank 
was estabUshed in 1807, and a steam-mill was building when I 
was there, which may be the foundation for a new system of poli- 
cy, to be afterwards noticed, that may be highly advantageous to 
the town. There are several taverns and stores. 

From the circumstance of the town being settled by people from 
the commercial state of Massachusetts, the spirit of foreign com- 
merce seems to have long prevailed among them. They were suc- 
cessful in it for some time, and notwithstanding the total change 
of circumstances, they yet view it with a fond partiality, and have 
not thoroughly seen that a change of circumstances has called for 
a change of policy, of which no people can better avail themselves 
than those of Marietta. They are sober, industi'ious, intelligent, 
and discreet ; and their country abounds with materials for manji- 
facturing. Sheep thrive amazingly well ; cotton they can procure 
from Tennessee, for 14 or 15 cents per pound. Coal, iron, and 
limestone, they can have in any quantity, and every other Jiiate- 
rial may be had on as good terms as at Pittsburg ; while, from 
the great quantities of fine land on the Muskingun, and the rapil 
settlements on that river, I think provisions must continue to be even 

4t 



346 TltAVLLS ON 

lower than jit Pittsburg. Should the peo})le of Marietta, there- 
fore, commence the manufacturing system, 1 think it probable, 
that it will become a flourishing ])lace, as it certainly is a very 
beautiful, and a very pleasant one ; but so long as the allow ideas 
of a foreign commerce, xvhich is gone, to fetter their minds, it will 
hang like a millstone round their necks, and prevent all improve- 
ments. Indeed 1 think the new system is begun. I noticed the 
steam-mill; the original design of it was to prepare flour and 
Indian meal, but the proprietors propose also to introduce cotton 
and wool carding and spinning. 

Flour was four dollars per barrel ; beef four cents per pound; 
and other provisions were upon an average, tibout 10 per cent, 
cheaper than at Pittsburg. 

The state of society is such as might be expected in a colony 
from Massachussets. With their morals and manners I was high- 
ly pleased, and their system of education, being founded on the 
same plan as that of the parent state, requires no illustration. 

The country' round is very handsome : to the south-west there 
are pretty high hills, and the country is rugged and barren ; there 
are also some hills to the north, but of no great elevation; there is 
a large tract of bottom land on the banks of the river, above the 
town ; and there are some very rich bottoms on the Muskingum, 
but they are of no great extent; and the hills a long way up that 
river are very rough, but may in process of time be converted 
into excellent sheep-farms. 

Mr. Ward, my fellow-traveller, was very attentive in showing 
me the place, and in introducing me to a number of the principal 
inhabitants. This being the residence of the governor of the state, 
we waited on liim : but he had not leisure at that time for much 
conversation. Mr. W^ard afterwards informed me by letter, that 
he had sent me a card of invitation to spend an evening with his 
family, but I was gone before it came to hand, and I regretted 
that I lost an opportunity of receiving the valuable information 
which would have been aflbrded by an evening's conversation 
with a gentleman so intelligent and so well informed as governor 
Meigs. 

General Putnam is onfe of the earliest settlers here, and he 
has several sens and relatives, well acquainted with the state of 
Ohio ; from them I got a great variety of information. 

W^e went to see the Mounds; but whether it was th.at my mind 



THE OHIO RIVER. S^ 

was raised to too hlgii a pitch of expectation from the accounts 
I had read of them, or tliat it was pre-occupicd by objects of 
greater importance to society, I iinow not ; but so it was, they 
did not come up to my expectations at all ; I could hardly view 
them even as curiosities ; and I saw no reason to refer their ex- 
istence to a different race, or a different state of civilization, than 
what is to be found among the Indian tribes at present in North 
America. In all probability, a numerous tribe had been settled 
on the Ohio, who had been at war with some other tribe, or 
tribes, to the eastward. Those on the Ohio would naturally look 
out a strong hold for their wives and little ones, and appear to 
have availed themselves, naturally enough, of a position where 
two sides were protected by tvi'o broad deep rivers. Here they 
would construct such kind of works as seemed to be best calcu- 
lated for protection : for defence h< case of surprise; and for af- 
fording free access to that most necessary element — water. 

As to the ingenuity of these works, which have been pompously 
termed " surprising," I really see nothing in it to lead us beyond 
the present race of Indians, who every day display a degree of su- 
perior ingenuity, though in a different forn;. The dexterous use 
of the bows and arrows and other instruments in the chase, the 
fabrication of different materials for domestic use, even the mock- 
assons in my possession, all display a degree of ingenuity equal to 
what is to be seen in these works. Human nature is nearly the 
same all over the world. Necessity is the mother of invention, 
and there is no setting bounds to the ingenuity of any class of men, 
when circumstances impel them to exert it. 

The Muskingum is 200 yards broad at its outlet, and is navi- 
gable, with nearly as much ease as the Ohio, to Zanesville, and 
from thence by various craft to its head. Both the Ohio and 
Muskingum are navigated by keel-boats upwards, almost with as 
great facility as downwards, a circumstance not very generally 
known, but of infinite importance to this extensive inland country. 
I saw one solitary brig building on the banks of the Muskino-uui. 

The Ohio Company's purchase, of which Marietta is the capi- 
tal, extends along the Ohio river, including its windings, about 
140 miles, but in a direct line it is only about 70. It extends west 
from Marietta 48, and north about 12 miles, the whole length 
from south to north being 80 miles. The area is about ] 700 
square miles, containing about a million of acres. 



348 TRAVELS OK 

The territory is laid out into townships of six miles square, and 

in each there is a reservation of 640 acres of land for a church, 

and as much for a school ; and two townships near the centre of the 

- purchase, on Hockhocking river, have been reserved for a college. 

On this reserve Athens is now built. 

This tract was purchased fi'om the United States for one dollar 
an acre, and the company were principally guided in their choice 
of their situation, by the commercial advantages which appeared 
to result from having tlie command of several fine rivers, particu- 
larly the Ohio and Muskingum ; without perhaps duly reflecting, 
that agriculture takes the precedence of commerce. Before there 
can be trade there must be something to trade in. Certain it is 
they fixed upon one of the worst situations in the state of Ohio, 
and, notwithstanding the cheapness of the purchase, most of the 
proprietors have found it a losing concern. There are some fine 
bottoms on the Ohio, and on some of the other I'ivers, particular- 
ly the Hockhocking, but by far the greater part is rough and 
hilly ; although I think it will answer remarkably well for sheep- 
grazing, to which, in process of time, it will probably be applied. 
The land stands rated in the state books nearly thus : of ] 00 parts 
there is one first rate ; 30 second rate ; and 69 third rate land* 
The population is increasing, but not nearly in an equal degree 
to other parts of the state. The inhabitants amount at present to 
about 12,000. The climate is very agreeable, and is quite healthy. 
The whole district abounds with finely variegated scenery. 

Marietta District, of which the United States land-office is at 
Marietta, is situated between the Steubenville district and the 
Ohio Company's purchase. It extends into the interior of the 
country about 30 miles, and contains about 860 square miles. 
The Ohio washes it on the south-east about 60 miles. The soil 
here is much superior to the Ohio Company's lands : of 100 parts, 
one is first rate ; 77 second rate; and 22 third rate. It is hand- 
somely watered, the principal river being the Little Muskingum, 
and though it is only about half as large as the company's pur- 
chase, it contains nearly as many inhabitants, and is more hkely 
to increase. The price of the United States' lands is two dollars 
per acre. The other lands vary according to circumstances, some 
being as low as one dollar, and some as high as 20 dollars per 
acre. The average price of middhng land is about two dollars. 
The Ohio Company's purchase is very various in price. General- 



THE OHIO RIVER. 349 

ly speaking, the individuals who hold it are willing to sell at 
moderate prices, and very advantageous bargains may be made by 
those who go there to reside. To the non-resident speculator, it 
holds out no inducement. 



CHAPTER LXXII. 

Blannerhassefs Island^ — Kanhwway Riva\ — Galliopolis. 

UURING our stay at Marietta, the water rose a little, and a 
number of boats came down the river. Two young gentlemen in 
a skifF, one of them a Mr. Murray, from New York, the other 
from Baltimore, arrived at the inn where we lodged ; but they 
only stopped a few minutes, and proceeded down the river. Five 
or six keel-boats, laden with goods, stopped at the same time, and 
we prepared to go along with them. I now parted with my agree- 
able friend Mr. Ward, and the Frenchman and I proceeded on 
our journey together. A Mr. Armstrong, whom 1 became ac- 
quainted with at Pittsburg, M'as along with the boats, and we 
found him very disci'eet. As we were starting from the wharf, a 
young man from the keel -boats told u&he was disengaged, and of- 
fered his services to row our skiff. We engaged him, but had 
only proceeded a little way, when the captain of one of the keel- 
boats roared out to him, with a volley of oaths and imprecations, 
to come and take care of his father. The young man asserted he 
had nothing to do with them, and, to prevent any mischief, I 
desired him to pull away to Mr. Armstong's boat, where I would 
procure him protection till we got the matter inquired into. But 
we had not proceeded far when the men from the boat pursued 
and overtook us ; seized hold of the young man, 7ieck and heels ; 
threw him into their boat, and carried him off. On reaching Mr. 
Armstrong, I learned that this was a bad boy, who wanted to 
desert his father ; and he recommended to us a young lad, named 
Peter, on board their boat, whom we found to answer our purpose 
remarkably well. 

At night we stopped at a tavern, six miles below Marietta, on 
the Ohio side. This was a pretty situation, but I did not like 
the looks of our landlord ; and the boats' crews having stopped 
here, they made a terrible rornjms, drinking methcglin, and swear- 



350 TRAVELS ON 

ing unmeaning oaths. However, they took to their boats by 11 
o'clock, and we slept pretty comfortably till morning ; our boat- 
man having been left in the skiff to take charge of the luggage. 

September 2d. We started at 6 o'clock ; the morning was fog- 
gy; the thermometer stood at 68°. About 9 o'clock we reached 
Blannerhasset's Island, 18 miles below Marietta, where I went on 
shore to view the premises. The soil was fertile, and it had been 
a beautiful place; but its appearance now was that of the "deserted 
village," I saw the remains of walks, and arbours, and hedge- 
rows, and shrubberies ; but the house was razed to the foundations. 
It had been accidentally burned dov.'n, the preceding month of 
March. The principal crop on the island was hemp, and in the 
course of my walk I discovered an old Irishman spinning rope-yarn. 
I could not view this scene without considerable anguish of mind, 
and some important reflections on the danger of indulging vicious 
propensities, especially when these have for their object the mere 
gratification of personal vanity or aggrandizement. 

There are various accounts of Mr. Blannerhasset, and of his con- 
nexion with Aaron Burr. It is of httle importance now to inquire 
into their authenticity ; but we may draw some important lessons 
from the melancholy result to the parties. Blannerhasset is said to 
have been most comfortably situated at this handsome place, and 
his wife is described as beautiful. In an evil hour he seems to have 
admitted Mr. Burr to his counsels, who had sufficient art to entrap 
him to co-operate with him in his ambitious pursuits. He endorsed 
bills for him to a greater extent than he was able to pay; and the 
consequence was an alienation of his beautiful place to strangers, — 
he being obliged to seek a support to his family in a far distant, and 
probably ungenial country ; and his peace of mind destroyed — per- 
haps for ever 1 

From a review of the whole of Mr. Burr's transactions we may 
draw a most important inference as to the stability of the govern- 
ment in this country. It is a government by the people, in which 
all have an equal interest, and the great mass of virtuous citizens 
must necessarily give it their support ; because no change can take 
place, except for the worse to them. A few disappointed ambitious 
men may create a temporary and local disturbance ; but they can- 
not work in secret — their deeds muht come to light — and when they 
do, they will become the scorn of good men — the outcasts of society; 
and tjie government of the country will only receive strength from 



THE oaiO RIVER. 351 

the futile attempts to overturn it. A government by the people is 
like a beautiful pyramid with a substantial base — it cannot be over- 
turned ; but a despotic government, or a government by a small 
portion of the people only, is like a pyramid inverted. Extraordi- 
nary vigour may support it for a time ; but when this vigour be- 
comes corrupt, or takts a wrong direction, the whole fabric will fall 
to the ground, and crush its supporters in its ruins. 

There is a beautiful situation nearly opposite to Blannerhasset's 
Island, called Bellcprc, and the scenery continues very elegant along 
the river. The settlements are pretty thick on the Ohio side ; but 
the Virginia side is mostly unsettled. We passed the Little and Bi<»- 
Hockhocking rivers, and several islands in the Ohio, and at night 
stopped at the house of a Mr. Symes, where we had excellent ac- 
commodations for a very moderate charge; and I procured a "reat 
deal of information regarding that part of the country. 

September 3d. We started at 6 o'clock ; the morning was cloudy, 
the temperature oftheairwas 70°, of the water 75°. The scenery 
is nearly similar to that before described, and the river about 700 
yards broad. We hud now got well accustomed to travelling by 
water, and we found it easy and agreeable. Our boatman, Peter, 
answered our purpose remarkably well, and could row about three 
miles an hour. The water was low, and we found the current as* 
sited us very little. In order to relieve the boatman, and to give 
ourselves excercise, we frequently took a turn at the oars, and we 
generally made from 30 to 36 miles a day. We had found by this 
time that the settlei's on the Ohio side were by far in the most com- 
fortable circumstances; and we never failed in an application for 
lodging or victuals on that side. On the Virginia side we had of 
late made frequent attempts; but were always unsuccessfuL Ou 
stopping there we generally found a negro, who could give us no 
answer, or a poor-looking object in the shape of a woman, who, 
*' moping and melancholy," would say " we h;.ive no way." I never 
saw the bad effects of slavery more visible than in this contrast* 
On the Virginia side they seemed generally to trust to the exertions 
of the negroes, and we found them, as might be expected, " misei- 
able and wretched, aJid poor, and almost naked." — On the Ohio 
^i<le they trusted to the blessing of God and to their own exertions; 
and " God helps them that help themselves," as poor Richard says, 
in his almanack. W^e found them increasing in wealth, popula- 
tion, and domestic comfort ; and we resolved hereafter to ai^olv 04 



3b2 TRAVELS ON 

the right bank only for accommodation, where the reader will hence- 
forth find us, unless it is otherwise expressed. Our general rule 
was to look out for a settlement at sun-set, and stop at the first we 
can[ie to thereafter : and it was hardly ever necessary to make a 
second call. As soon as we had engaged lodgings "we ordered sup- 
per, and along with it two chickens to be cooked for next day's fare. 
The boatman got supper along with us, and then returned to the 
skiff, where he slept all night. The Frenchman, who I before no- 
ticed, was a humoiirsome character, went to bed immediately after 
supper, and often scolded me for not following his example ; but 
havino- to write my notes, it was generally 11 or 12 o'clock before 
I could retire to rest. I always found the people with whom we 
stopped very obliging, and ready to answer all my inquiries ; so 
that it gave me real pleasure to travel on this delightful river, and 
to converse with the friendly settlers on its banks. Our travelling 
too was very cheap, for the whole did not amount to more than a 
dollar a day, boatman's hire included. In the morning, when we 
started, we carried our broiled chickens, with some bread, cheese, 
and milk, in the skiff; on which we made very comfortable repasts, 
without stopping. 

Havino- passed a remarkable cavern in a rock called the Devil's 
hole, and Shade river, we reached a pretty strong current called a 
ripple, on which we found a floating-mill at work. Buffentin's Is- 
land lay on the opposite side, and after passing it we came up with 
an Irishman and his wife, travelling by a skiff for Kentucky. They 
had stopped for breakfast. The woman had kindled a fire on the 
baach to cook some eggs, and the man had gone up to a settlement, 
to o-et some milk. Our Frenchman went on the same errand ; but 
soon returned with the empty pitcher in his hand, saying that the 
wife would not sell him any, and he was as well pleased, for she was 
a dirty looking hussy. At this time the keel-boats joined us, and 
one of the boatmen said that the house was Buffentin's, and they 
were the most indiscreet dirty people in all the countiy. " Well," 
said our Frenchman, " we have always been well treat hitherto, and 
though we have got a little rub from the dirty Buffentins, we must 
just put up with it." On hearing this the woman made her appear- 
ance from behind the trees, where she had been listening, who, put- 
tino- her hands to her sides, exclaimed : " And what have you got 
to say to the Buffentins ?" " Why, madam," replied the Frenchman, 
<* all that I have got to say is that they are a parcel of dirty hogs, 



THB OHIO RIVER. 353 

and beneath our notice." It is impossible to describe the rage that 
appeared in the woman's countenance on this occasion ; and I be- 
lieve if the Frenchman had been within the reach of her talons, she 
would have 

" Flj^ed the skin 6' his cheeks out owro his chin ;" 

but we were in our boat in the river, and the Frenchman lay on his 
t>ars, and enjoyed her half-frantic gestures, while she unprofitably 
tpent her rage among the trees. 

There appears to be certain periods when mankind take a per- 
verse pleasure in tormenting each other. The poor woman's pas- 
sions were fired at the circumstance of being called dirty ; a plain 
proof that it was not altogether congenial to her disposition : yet 
our Frenchman, so far from feeling any compunction, tormented 
her with a string of allusions, all of which had a tendency to wind 
her passions to the highest pitch ; but he could do it with impunity. 
We were at a respectful distance, moving slowly down the river ; 
there was no danger of broken bones : but the Billingsgate continu« 
ed while we were within hearing, to the great amusement of the 
crews of the adjoining boats. 

A short while after leaving our enraged fair one, we Were threaten- 
ed with a shower of rain, and we took shelter in a small log cabin, 
where the landlord told us he was a native of Ireland, and had come 
out to fight for America during the war. He was an excellent mu- 
sician, and amused us with some tunes on the violin. The after- 
noon cleared up, we got under weigh, and made very good pro- 
gress to Letart's falls, which we passed before dark, and stopped at 
a house on the right bank, immediately below them. 

Here I got a great variety of information regarding this part of 
the country. It is only about 1 3 years since it began to be settled, 
and it has made rapid progre:;s. The climate is healthy, and the 
winters mild. Improved land on the river sells for eight dollars, 
and unimproved for four dollars per acre. Letart's falls are only a 
swift current, which the keel boats ascend upwards. In the course 
of the day we passed several families moving down the river to Ken- 
tucky ; we also passed a floating store. 

September 4th, we left Letart's falls at half past 6 o'clock ; the 
morning was cloudy, the thermometer was 69*^, in the water it wa« 
75°. The wind was blowing up the river with a very strong cur- 
rent, and, being obliged to coast along the bank, we made but small 

4J» 



354 TRAVELS ON 

progress. We met several vessels loaded witli salt, bound up the 
river, and judging from the state of the wirids since we left Pitts- 
burg, I was satisfied we could have sailed up to Pittsburg in little 
more than half the time we took to come down. The keel boats sail 
up at the rate of about 20 miles a day. The scenery continues near- 
ly similar to that already described, to the Great Kanhaway, which 
we reached at sun-set. The Kanhaway is a large river in Virginia, 
on which there is now a great trade in salt. It appears at its outlet 
to be nearly as large as the Ohio. At this place there is a little 
town on the Virginia side, on a high bank, called Point Pleasant, 
where we left Mr. Murray and his friend, and passed on to Gallio- 
polis ; at which town I was anxious to stop all night, to make 
observations. 

It was dark before we arrived, so that we had some difficulty 
in fixing our boat, and getting properly accommodated with lodg- 
ings; and our Frenchman having wished to stop at Point Plea- 
sant, I was a good deal troubled with his ill-humour. 

September 5th. This morning we took a walk round the town, 
and I was pleased to find it in a thriving state. A number of 
buildings had been lately erected, most of them of brick, and a 
handsome brick academy was building. A number of little ponds at 
the back of the town were drained, and the fields around had been 
recently put into a state of active cultivation. The town was 
stocked with orchards, and the fruit was excellent. We were in- 
troduced to several of the early French settlers, who gave a differ- 
ent history of the place from what I had seen before in. books, and 
the substance of their information I have engrossed in the follow- 
ing account. 

Galliopolis is the capital of Gallia county, and is beautifully 
situated, on a second bank of the Ohio. It is laid out on a good 
plan : there is a square of eight acres in the centre, and the build- 
ing ground is divided into squares of five acres each, by streets of 
66 feet wide, crossing each other at right angles. The building 
lots are 85 feet in front, by 170 deep, and contain one third of an 
acre. They sell, at present, for from 25 dollars to 200 dollars 
each. The number of houses is about 70, and the inhabitants 300. 
The public buildings are a court-house, and the academy ; which 
last is to contain a room for a church, one for a military academy, 
and one for a masonic hall. 
. Except domestic manufactures, there are none in the town, 



THE OHIO RIVER. 355 

though there are several in the country, and some are projected 
which would probably succeed very well. There are no water fulls 
for machinery on the Ohio, but they have coal in abundance, and 
steam-mills are likely to become very general. One is projected 
here. The different professions are, one tavern-keeper, two black- 
smiths, two tanners, three storekeepers, three master masons, and 
six or seven carpenters. Provisions are reasonable : flour two dol- 
lars per cwt., beet three dollars, pork three dollars, corn 33 cents 
per bushel, butter 6i cents per lb. eggs 6^ cents per dozen, fowls 
6^ cents each. 

This place was originally settled by a French colony, who pur- 
chased the lands in France for five dollars per acre ; but soon after 
settling here they were unfortunately engaged in a war with the In- 
dians, which contributed very much to disturb and dispirit the 
colony. This, however, they would have overcome, had they got 
quiet possession of their iands afterwards; but they were involved 
in a dispute about the land titles, one of the most serious evils 
that can befal new settlers ; many of them bought their lands a se- 
cond time and remained ; some went to French Grant, where the 
United States gave them a quantity of land to indemnify them for 
their losses, and some moved away altogether. These circumstan- 
ces were the cause of the dismemberment of the colony, in conse- 
quence of which they did no good here, nor any where else. 

Galliopolis has been reputed a sickly place, but this is a mistake ; 
it is quite healthy, and it is a beautiful situation. It has been also 
supposed that no body should go to a new country, except they 
can take an axe in their hand, and cut down trees. This is also a 
mistake. An association of farmers, mechanics, &c., have th6 
best chance, because their combined labours are equal to all their 
wants. Witness the Harmonist Society ; and I have no doubt, 
from what I learned regarding the French colony, that it ajso 
would have done very well, had they not been imposed upon in 
their own country as to the land. 



356 TRAVELS dN 

CHAPTER LXXII. 

Leave Galliopolisj — Portsmouth^ — Limestone, — Cincinnati, 

VV HILE we were making our inquiries at Galliopolis, Mr. 
Murray and his friend came up with us, but stopping only a few 
minutes, they passed on before we were ready; I had a great deal 
of trouble to keep my fretful Frenchman in good humour. " What 
you always inquire, inquire," says he, " at every body, and 
about every thing? don't you see there's water, and there's trees, 
and there's houses, and there's fields? and just say to the people: — 
the western country is the first in the world — the rivers are beauti- 
ful, and the trees are magnificent, and the climate is delightful ; 
and as to the soil, you can take a handful, and squeeze a gill of oil 
out of it." " Be quiet, now," says I, " and just take things easy. 
You Frenchmen are always for applying a magnifying glass to ob- 
jects, but I wish simply to state things as they are." 

We left Galliopolis at half-past 1 1 : the day was clear and beau- 
tiful ; the thermometer stood ^t 78°. We were now favoured with 
a little breeze which helped us along, and having made 22 miles, 
we stopped at the house of a Mr. Riggs, near the extremity of the 
Ohio company's purchase. We found this a very comfortable set- 
tlement, on a second bank of the Ohio, and Mr. Riggs had a 
large and industrious family. He told us that he sat down here 
about 12 years ago, and had not yet made a purchase of his lands, 
but expected to buy them soon, and would be willing to give 8 
dollars an acre for them. Here we saw the women busy spinning 
and weaving cotton ; and were informed that they raised it on their 
own plantation, which is in latitude 3S° 4-0'. They raise also sweet 
potatoes and ground-nuts. We were informed that the weather 
had been cool and pleasant here all sumpaer, and that they seldom 
experienced the extremes of heat or cold. Mr. Riggs gave us a;\ 
account of the settlemenl of that part of the country. The first 
clearers, or squatters, as they are called, look out a situation where 
they can find it, and clear and cultivate apiece of land. A second^ 
class come after them, who have got a little money, and they buy 
up the improvements of the first settlers, and add to them, but with- 
out buying the land. A third and last class generally come for per- 
manent settlement, and buy both land and improvements. When 



THE OHIO RIVER. 357 

this last claims have made a settlement, the country rapidly improves. 
And assumes the appearance of extended cultivation. It is presum- 
ed the whole banks of the Ohio, as far as we have travelled, will 
have that appearance within 10 years. 

While we were here, a stranger arrived from Kentucky, who 
also got lodgings, and, when Mr. Riggs' family were all collected, 
we had, if not a brilliant, at least a very numerous company. — 
There were seven or eight sons, and three or four daughters : how 
they wei'e all accommodated with beds I do not know, but we got 
a, very good one on the lower floor, the old man and old woman be- 
ing upon the one hand, and two or three of the daughters on the 
other. The bed-clothes were made wholly of cotton, and we were 
very comfortable. 

Sept. 6. — We started at 6 ; the morning was foggy, the thermo- 
meter 53°. Twelve miles from Mr. Riggs' we stopped at a small 
tavern, where we found the landlord a great politician, and very com- 
municative. He said he was a true democratic republican, though 
he lived within half a mile of Federal creek. Below this place the 
country becomeslevel, and socontinuesto Sandy creek, the boundary 
of the state of Kentucky, which we reached in the afternoon, and hav- 
ing long desired to see that celebrated state, I immediately went on 
shore to shake hands with the soil. I could not, in terms of our 
Frenchman's notion, " squeeze a gill of oil out of it," but I found 
it of an excellent quality, and supplied with large timber, princi- 
pally beech and sugar-maple. 1'he country beyond this assumes a 
hilly aspect, but the banks are remarkably fertile. We made an 
attempt to procure lodgings in Kentucky, but, as in Virginia, with- 
out effect. We found iii the house where we applied nothing but 
filth and wretchedness, and, passing over to the Ohio side, we got 
most comfortable lodgings with a new-married couple, who had 
very laudably provided a bed for strangers, besides their own. 
They would take nothing for our accommodation, the second in- 
stance of the kind we had met with on the Ohio. 

September 7th. We started at half-past 5. The morning was 
foggy; the thermometer 55°. The scenery on the river was now 
very fine. At 9 o'clock we were up with a remarkable rock, 
called Hanging rock, and we stopped at a plantation in Kentucky, 
on a beautiful bend of the river, where we got some milk and but- 
ter from a Maryland family. They were industrious, suad highly 
plea^ with their new situation. The land, they informed us, 



358 TR4VELS OM 

cost 5 dollars 50 cents per acre, and they could dispose of every 
article of produce on the river as follows : corn 25 cents per bushel, 
■wheat 50, potatoes 40, meal 40, flour 2 dollars. One day's labour 
in the week was sufficient to support the family, and they did not 
depend on negro labour. The country below this was very vari- 
ous as we passed, but the soil generally good. The river was about 
700 yards wide, and so transparent, that we could see the bottom 
distinctly at 8 feet deep, and a variety of fishes playing upon it. 

The river keeps generally a south-west course, till it passes the 
latitude of 38° 30', and at Sandy river makes a bend to the north- 
west. We were now sailing in that direction, and passed Little 
Sandy river, and French Grant ; and at Little Scioto, the river 
bends to the south-west, where we took a fair wind, which carried 
us very swiftly to the the Big Scioto, on which is Portsmouth and 
Alexandria. As the latter is an old settlement, we meant to have 
stopped at it all night ; but, on making inquiry for a tavern, we 
found there was none, and that the town was going to decay. It 
appears it is liable to be flooded, although it is on a bank 60 feet 
hiffh : but Portsmouth, on the east bank of the Scioto, is not sub- 
ject to that inconvenience, and is progressing very fast. Being at 
the outlet of the Scioto, one of the finest rivers in the state of 
Ohio, I presume it will become a place of very considerable impor- 
tance. We were told that the banks of the Scioto were very rich, 
though a little unhealthy; but, as the country was clearing up, the 
sickness was diminishing every year. 

We continued our course down the river, and inquired for lodg- 
ings ; but we could not be accommodated where we first applied ; 
and this was the first instance of the kind that had occurred in the 
state of Ohio : a proof of the comfortable circumstances and hosr 
pitaHty of the settlers. We applied at the next house, half a mile be- 
low ; and here we were accommodated, but very poorly. The fami- 
ly were recently from Virginia, and they had to part with their own 
bed to us. The soil is very rich here ; and we were told, that the 
produce of 12 acres would with ease support a numerous family. 
Land is 5 dollars per acre, and workmen have 2 bushels of cori^ 
and their maintenance, for a day's work. 

September 8th. We rose at half past 5. The morning was 
clear ; the thermometer 60°. But before setting out, a difficulty 
occurred :; we had nothing less than a five dollar piece, and the 
family could not change it. I was obliged, therefore, to walk haF 



THE OHIO BIVER. 359 

a mile up tlie banks of the river to procure it, at the house where 
we applied for lodgings last evening. The landlord was an Irish- 
man, and expressed great regret that he was not at home when 
we applied, as he would have wished to have talked about the old 
country. He accommodated me with change, and expressed a 
desh-e to detain me some little time ; but, the wind being fair, I 
was loth to lose a minute, and I set out for the boat with all 
possible dispatch. In my way, I passed through a fine bottom, 
stocked with trees of extraordinary size and beauty. They were 
mostly chesnut, quite straight and smooth in the trunk, and several 
of them, which I measured, were 18 feet in circumference. 

On my arrival at the boat, I found the Frenchman " gnaimng 
his nails'^ with anxiety ; but we set sail with a fair wind, and soon 
made up our lee-way. We again passed our friend Mr. Murray, 
and the wind continuing to favour us, we made rapid progress. 
We passed Salt-Lick creek, near which we saw a number of 
beautiful conical hills, and, after sailing nearly 40 miles through 
very variegated scenery, we reached Manchester before dark, 
where we stopped all night. Manchester is a small place, con- 
sisting of 12 or 14- houses only, and is not thriving. 

September 9. We set sail at 6 o'clock. The morning was fine, 
and, having a fair wind we had a rapid run of 12 miles to Lime- 
stone, which we reached at 8 o'clock. This is one of the shipping 
ports of Lexington, and is quite a bustling place ; but we only 
stopped at it while we took breakfast, when we immediately set 
sail, and at 2 o'clock reached Augusta, a very handsome little 
town in Kentucky, 21 miles below Limestone. It is thriving re- 
markably well. 

We left Augusta at 3 o'clock, and, 3 miles below it, parted 
with our boatman, and continueil our course in expectation of 
reaching the plantation of a Mr. Kenned}, a Scotsman, to whom 
I had a letter of introduction ; but the wind failed us, and we were 
obliged to stop 6 miles short of it, at the house of a Mr. Taylor. 

I was much pleased with the appearance of this part of the coun- 
try, and Mr. Taylor being a shrewd, intelligent man, I received a 
great deal of information ft'om him. This situation is in the Vir- 
ginia military lands, and the country is very agreeable. The price 
of land is generally 2 dollars per acre. The principal timber is 
walnut, blue ash, beech, and sugar-tree. Cleared lands sell from 
5 to 10 dollars, accoirding to the quality. Flour is 2 dollars per 



SGO TRAVELS ON 

cwt. ; wheat 50 cents per bushel ; horses from 5(5 to 60 dollars ; 
cows 10 dollars. Mr Taylor moved from Washington county, 
Penny Ivania, and considers this soil and climate as much better than 
that he had left. The first frost appears about the middle of Oc- 
tober, but it is slight ; and winter does not set in until Christmas, 
They have a good deal of rain in winter, but snow does not lie 
long« 

September 10th* I rose very early this mornings when I saw 
the comet for the first time. The morning was clear, and the 
thermometer stood at 50°. The wind was north-east. North-east 
winds seem to have the same effect here that north-west winds have 
on the other side of the mountains. They render the air clear, 
dry, and elastic. 

At 6 o'clock we got under weigh, and at a little past 7 reached 
the plantation of Mr. Kennedy, on the Kentucky side. His house 
was a little way back from the river, and I went up to present my 
letter, when he received me with great cordiality. I told him the 
humour of my travelling companion, and he came down to tlie 
beach, to invite him to breakfast. While we were on the beach, 
Mr. Murray and his companion arrived, and Mr. Kennedy gave 
them an invitation also ; so we moved to the house in a body. I 
would wrong Mr. Kennedy to say, barely, he was kind ; he was 
hospitable in the highest degree. He got an excellent breakfast 
prepared, and, in the interim, treated us with whiskey and honey, 
well known in Scotland by the name of Athol-brose, in honour of 
which the celebrated Niel Gow composed an elegant strathspey, and 
gave it that name. 

Before we had finished our breakfast, Mr. Kennedy drew a fid- 
dle from a box, and struck up the tune of Rolhemurche's Rant. 
He played in the true Highland style, and I could not stop to 
finish my breakfast, but started up and danced Shantrasos. The 
old man was delighted, and favoured us with a great many Scot- 
tish airs. When he laid down the fiddle, 1 took it up, and com- 
menced in my turn, playing some nevo strafhspci/s that he had not 
heard before ; but he knew the spirit of them full ivell, and he also 
gave us Shantrews " louping^ear bawk height," albeit he was well 
stricken in years. 

H$ next played a number of airs, all Scottish, on a whistle; 
and then pulled out some MS. poetry', and read several pieces, 
which were highly humorous. He was particularly severe upo« 



-«L 



THE OHIO RIVER, 361 

the methodists, whose frantic gestures he imitated, crying out, 
^^ glory, glory" and stamping his feet, as he recited a piece of 
satire upon their conduct. But this was too rich a feast to last: 
we were obliged to depart ; but I made a promise to pay him ano- 
ther visit, if I could, before I left the country. 

The wind was unsteady, and sometimes ahead ; but we made 
considerable progress. The river, and scenery on its banks, con- 
tinue very beautiful, and the country here is all healthy. Twenty 
miles below Mr. Kermedy's, we passed the little Miami river, a 
fine romantic stream, abounding with falls and mill-seats, and 
eight miles below it we reached Cincinnati, at dark, where we 
found excellent accommodations at the Columbian tavern. 



CHAPTER LXXIV. 

Cincinnati, — Symme's purchase, — Cincinnati district, — Newport. 

Cincinnati is elegantly situated on a first and second bank 
on the north side of the Ohio river, along which it extends nearly 
half a mile, and as far back in the country. The scite of the town 
is elevated from 70 to 120 feet above low water mark, and is never 
overflowed. The land and water around it exhibit a very hand- 
some appearance. The Ohio is here three quarters of a mile wide ; 
and Licking river, a considerable stream in Kentucky, falls into it 
right opposite. The streets of Cincinnati are broad, crossing one 
another at right angles ; and the greater pnrt of the houses being 
of brick, it has a very handsome appearance. The streets, how- 
ever, are not yet paved, except the side walks, on which account 
they are unpleasant in muddy weather ; but that is an evil which 
will soon be remedied. Cincinnati was laid out about 21 years ago, 
since which it has made rapid progress, and now contains about 100 
houses, and 2283 inhabitants. Tlie public buildings are, a court- 
house, jail, bank, three market-houses, and some places for pub- 
lic worship, two cotton factories, and some considerable breweries 
and distilleries. The taverns are not numerous, but there are up- 
wards of 30 dry-goods stores, in which from 200,000 to 250,000 
dollars worth of imported goods are disposed of annually. 

This is, next to Pittsburg, the greatest place for manufactures 
and mechanical operations on the river, and the profes^sions cxcr- 

4G 



362 TRAVELS ON 

cised are nearly as numerous as at Pittsburg. There are niaaoiis 
and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, coop- 
ers, turners, machine-makers, wheel-wrights, smiths and nailors? 
coppersmiths, tin-smiths, silver-smiths, gun-smiths, clock and 
watch-makers, tanners, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, glovers 
and breeches-makers, butciiers, bakers, brewers, distillers, cotton- 
spinners, weavers, dyers, taylors, printers, bookbinders, rope-makers, 
tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-makers, comb-makers, painters, 
.pot and {)earl ash-makers. 

These branches are mostly all increasing, and afford good wa- 
ges to the journeymen. Carpenters and cabinet-makers have one 
dollar per day and their board ; masons have two dollars per 1000 
for laying bricks and their board ; when they board themselves 
thej^ have about four dollars per 1000. Other classes have from 
one to one dollar tv/enty-five cents per day, according to the na- 
ture of the v.-ork. 

Wool and cotton carding and spinning can be increased to a 
great extent; and a well organized manufactory of glass bottles 
would succeed. Porter brewing could be augmented, but it would 
first be necessary to have bottles, as the people here prefer malt 
liquor in the bottled state. A manufactory of wool-hats would pro- 
bably succeed, and that of stockings v/ould do remarkably well, 
provided frame smith-work were established along with it — not else. 
As the people are becoming wealthy and polished in their manners, 
probably a manufactory of piano-fortes would do upon a small 
scale. 

There are ample materials for manufactures. Cotton is brought 
from Cumberland river, for from two to three cents. Wool is be- 
comino- plenty in the country, and now sells at 50 cents per pound ; 
all the materials for glass-making are abundant ; coal has not been 
found in the im.mediate neighbourhood, but can be laid down here 
at a pretty reasonable rate ; and it is probable the enterprising citi- 
zens will soon introduce the steam-engine in manufactures. Wood 
is brought to the town at a very low rate. There is a very consider- 
able trade between New Orleans and this place, and several barges 
were in the river when we visited it. One had recently sailed up- 
wards over the falls. 

The expense of living is lower than at Pittsburg. House rent 
for a mechanic is about 60 dollars, but the most of them soon get 
houses of their own. Wood is 1 dollar per cord; coals 8 to 12 



THE OHIO RIVER. ' S63 

cents per bushel ; flour 2 dollars per cwt. ; corn-meal 33 cents per 
bushel ; potatoes 95 ; vegetables are very plenty and cheap ; beef, 
mutton, and veal 4 to 5 cents per lb, ; pork 2h ; venison 25 cents 
per ham ; fowls, one dollar per dozen ; ducks, 25 cents per pair ; 
geese 37^ to 50; turkies the same; wild turkies 12| to 25 cents; 
fish very cheap; che€se 12{7 per lb.; butter, 12 to 20; eggs 6 to 
10 per dozen; beer 5 dollars per barrel; cyder 3 dollars; whiskey 
37^ to 40 cents per gallon ; peach brandy 50 ; salt 1 dollar per 
bushel. 

This place, like Marietta, is mostly settled by New Englanders ; 
and the state of society is very excellent. Education is well attend- 
ed to, and the people are very correct in their morals. There are 
three newspapers printed here, and they get papers from every 
state in the imion. . « 

Sym?.ies's PURCHASE, on which Cincinnafi is situated, is one of 
the most judicious that has ever been made in the state of Ohio. 
It lies between the two Miami rivers, about 20 miles in breadth . 
and extends from the Ohio into the interior of the country, about 
30 miles. It contains one of the best bodies of land in the whole 
state, and is now nearly settled up. Land is consequently pretty 
high, and may be rated at 5 dollars per acre, uncleaied. In this 
purchase, like that by the Ohio company, there is a reserve for a 
school, and another for a church ; but I was informed, that in con- 
sequence of the variety of religious opinions in the district, the 
latter has been productive only of discord. The effect of the 
school section will be noticed hereafter. 

The Cincinnati District is situated to the westward of Sym- 
mes's purchase, and the United States land-office is in Cincinnati. 
This district is partly in the Indiana territory, but mostly in tho 
state of Ohio, and contains a body of most excellent land. It is 
bounded on the west by a line drawn from opposite the mouth of 
Kentucky river, to where the Indian nortli boundary line intersects 
the western line of the state of Ohio, and contains about 3000 
square miles. 

These two districts constitute what is called the Miami Country, 
which, in point of soil, climate, and natural advantages, is pro- 
bably inferior to none in the United States, and ^^^w are equal to it. 
The soil of this district is reckoned, upon the wliole, as the best m 
the state of Ohio. It is rated, in the state books, in this way: in 
100 parts, 6 arc fu'st rate, 70 second rate, and 21- third rate laud. 



864 TRAVELS ON 

The face of the country is agreeably uneven, but not mountainous ; 
and the country has a plentiful supply of the most useful minerals, 
particularly iron. There are also several mineral springs. 

The two principal rivers are the two Miamis, but it is remarkably 
well watered with small streams. The large Miami is an elegant 
river, 200 yards wide at its mouth, but, 75 miles in the interior of 
the country, it contracts to the breadth of 30 yards. It is naviga- 
ble, however, for canoes, 50 miles above this, in all 125 miles. — 
The whole length of the rivier in a straight line is about 130 miles, 
but including its turnings it is nearly double that distance. One 
of its branches interlocks with the Scioto, and from another there is 
a portage, of only nine miles, to a branch of the Miami of the lakes. 

The whole of this country has been settled up in little more than 
20 years,ftand it will afford an idea of the value of the counti'y to 
state that the inhabitants, of course mostly all emigrants, now a- 
mount to nearly 40,000. Hamilton county, a small district, con- 
sisting of little more than 300 square miles, contains upwards of 
15,000, being more than 50 to the square mile. 

I was introduced to judge Symmes, and the different gentlemen 
in the land-office, to whom, and Mr. Kilgour, a Scotsman, I was 
mostly indebted for my information here. Having finished my 
inquiries at Cincinnati, I crossed the river to wait upon colonel 
Taylor, at Newport, to whom I had a letter of introduction. 

Newport is a small place, and is quite eclipsed by the splendour 
of Cincinnati There is a good brick building on the banks of 
Licking Creek, in which is deposited a magazine of arms, ammu- 
nition, &c. ; so that Newport is a sort of military station, but it i* 
rather unhealthy on the creek, and I think it would have been wise 
to have placed it on the Cincinnati side. 

I found colonel Taylor a very communicative, sensible man, and 
remarkably well acquainted in this part of the country, where he 
is an old settler. He has an elegant farm, and a vineyard of grapes, 
the finest that I have yet seen in America. Grapes flourish luxu- 
riantly here, a circumstance that proves to a demonstration, that 
wine could be made in this part of the country. 

Here I was introduced to captain Baen, of colonel Boyd's regi- 
ment. Ha had just arrived from Boston, and was waiting for a 
passage down the river to join the army ; and I agreed to speak to 
my humoursome French captain to take him in our boat, at which 
he expressed his satisfaction. 



THE OillO RIVKR» 365 

The greater part of the information I received from Mr. Taylor, 
regarding the country, is anticipated in the preceding remarks, but 
there were various other topics of conversation, some of which I 
may just ghmce at. On the Indian war, I was informed that 
the opinion was general, there would be no fighting, or, if any, it 
would be of short duration ; and they did not apprehend the small-, 
est danger from it in this part of the country. On Burr's conspi- 
racy, with which colonel Taylor seems to have been well acquaint- 
ed, he bore testimony to the integrity and laudable conduct of Ge- 
neral Wilkinson, in suppressing one of the vilest treasons that ever 
was exhibited in the country. 



CHx\PTER LXXV. 

Leave Cincinnati^ — Miami river, — Kentucky river, — Stviss settlement ^ 

Loiiisville. 

tJUR Frenchman, with a shrug of his shoulders and some little 
reluctance, having agreed to accommodate captain Baen, we eji- 
gaged a man to row for us, and after laying in some provisions, 
part of which was a ham, which we stowed in the wolf-box, we 
started from Cincinnati oji the 13th of September, at 4 o'clock in 
the afternoon. The wind was blowing very strong up the river, so 
that we made only nine miles, when we lodged at a little dirty ta- 
vern, having the worst accommodations we had yet seen in the state 
of Ohio. The banks of the river were well settled and cultivated 
to this place. 

September lith. — Being very glad to get away from this wretch- 
ed tavern, we started at daj'-light. On examining our boat, wa 
found our ham had been, as before, abstracted from the box ; but 
a wolf was not the thief this time ; it was a coia, and the name of 
the box was changed accordingly. At 8 o'clock we passed the 
North Bend, a remarkable turn in the river, and immediately after, 
we stopped to breakfast at the house of a captain Kirtley, in Ken- 
tucky. He has a pretty plantation, and we got an excellent break- 
fast. We were informed that captain Brown, a gentleman from 
New Jersey, lived half a mile below, who had a fine orchard, 
and as he was very sociable and attentive to strangers, it would 
be worth our while to call on hin"-. The Frenchman and I started 



366 TRAVELS ON 

in the boat, and captain Baen walked along the bank. Having 
waited a while at Mr. Brown's, he called to us v.hen we were op- 
posite the plantation ; but we had already lost a great deal of time, 
and were inclined to go on. But he informed us that there was a 
great curiosity to be seen, so we jumped ashore. The curiosity was a 
Mammoth's haunch bone, which had been du": up in the fields a 
few days before. Captain Brown had it measured and weighed. 
It was indeed a very wonderful bone, being three feet in diameter, 
and weighmg 5B pounds : the socket was eight inches in diameter. 
What a stupendous animal it must have once formed a part of! 

If we Avere gratified by the sight of this bone, we were still more 
so by the view of Mr. Brown's orchards, where we found fruit that 
might have been with propriety termed mamnictli api:les. There 
was a larger quantity of fine fruit here, than in any orchard I had 
ever seen. Many of the limbs of the trees were literally broken 
down with the weight, and one or two whole trees were nearly 
broken to pieces by it. Some of the apples measured \1\ inches 
in circumference, and Mr. Brown boasted, I think with reason, 
that he could outmatch the whole United States with this fruit. It 
was noticed before that he is a native of Jersey, and he informed 
us that he bore a commission in the American war ; he had been 
fifteen or sixteen years settled in this country, and had only one 
child, a daughter, who was married to colonel Pike, the celebra- 
ted traveller in Louisiana. 

The wind continued to blow so strong up the river, that we 
could not row against it, and captain Brown insisted that we 
should stop to dinner, which we agreed to, and we were treated 
with great hospitality. In the afternoon the wind lulled a little, 
and wishing success to our hospitable entertainer, we took our 
leave. 

A few miles below captain Brown's we passed the mouth of the 
Great Miami, which has already been noticed, and which, at its 
confluence with the Ohio, has a handsome appearance. The wes- 
tern boundary line of the state of Ohio is projected due north 
from the mouth of this river, so that we were now between Ken- 
tucky and the Indiana territory. We reached the house of a cap- 
tain Talbot, where v/e stopped for the night. 

September 15. On getting up this morning we found it pretty 
cold — the thermometer had fallen to ^G". The sti'eam continued 
beautiful, but the banks were now rather low, and the inhabi- 



^ THE OHIO RIVER. 367 

tants appeared to be mostly all new settlers, and in very poor cir- 
circumstances. Ihe settlements were very thin, but the land ap- 
peared to be iipod, and the timber very luxuriant. The whole bed 
of the river here is limestone. The wind continued to blow up 
the streaiU so strong, that we could have sailed eight miles up- 
wards in the time we took to row one dovv'nwards. Indeed, in the 
middle of the day, it wa^ i o strong that we could not make head 
against it at all, and we v/ere obliged to put ashore at Big-bone- 
lick creek. Big-bone-iick , so called from the vast numbers of 
large bones wliich have been found near it, is the property of Mr. 
Colquhoun, to whom I had a letter of introduction, but I learned 
that he was at Lexington, and it was of no consequence to go to 
the lick, as all the bones which had been found hat! been carried 
away. In consequence of this information, I had recourse to my 
travelling conijianion, the Pittsburg Navigator, from which I 
transcribe the following account ; 

" Animals' bones of enormous size have been found here in crrcat 
numbers. Some skeletons nearly complete were not Ion"- since 
dug up, 1 1 feet under the surface, in a stiff blue clay. These ap- 
peared to be the bones of different species of animals, but all re- 
markably large. Some were supposed to be those of the mammoth, 
others of a non-descript. Among these bones, were two horns or 
fenders, each weighing 150 pounds, 16 feet long, and 18 inches in 
circumference at the big end ; and grinders of the carnivoroas 
kind, weighing from three to ten and a half pounds each ; and 
others of the granivorous species, equally large, but quite differ- 
ently shaped, being flat and ridged. Ribs, joints of the backbone, 
and of the foot or paw, thigh and hip bones, upper jaw bone, &c. 
&c. were also found, amounting in the whole to about five tons 
weight. 

" These bones were principally discovered by Dr. Goforth and 
Mr. Reeder of Cincinnati, who sent them by water to Pittsburg, 
with an intention to transport them to Philadelphia, and make 
sale of them to Mr. Peale, proprietor of the museum of that city, 
— They were, however, while in Pittsburg, discovered by an 
Irish gentleman, a traveller, avIio purchased them, reshipped theni 
down the Ohio, and thence to Europe. 

" As to the history of the mammoth, we are much in the dark. 
Of animals having once existed carrying these enormous bone?, 
there can be no doubt. Their present existence is much doubted; 



568 TRAVELS ON 

anil the only proof we have to the Contrarj^, is a curious tradition 
of the Indians, handed down to them by their fathers, which being 
delivered by a principal chief of the Delaware tribe to the gover- 
nor of Virginia during the American revolution, is recorded in the 
following words : — ' That in ancient times a herd of these tremen- 
dous animals came to the Big-bone licks, and began a universal 
destruction of the bear, deer, elks, buffaloes, and other animals 
which had been created for the use of the Indians: that the Great 
Man above, looking down and seeing this, was so enraged, that 
he seized his lightning, descended on the earth, and seated himself 
oil a neighbouring mountain, on a rock, on which his seat and 
the print of his feet are still to be seen, and hurled his bolts among 
them till the whole were slaughtered, except the big bull, who, 
presenting his forehead to the shafts, shook them off as they fell ; 
but missing one at length, it wounded him in the side; whereon, 
springing round, he bounded over the Ohio, over the Wabash, 
the Illinois, and finally over the great lakes, where he is living at 
this day.' — Jeffeison^s Notes on Virginia, 

*' There are places at the Big-bone lick, where the salt water 
bubbles up through the earth, that are rendered a perfect quag- 
mire, admitting nothing heavier walking over them than geese or 
other light web-footed fowl. Cattle dare not venture nearer than 
to their edges. One of these places appears bottomless, for no 
soundings have ever been found : throw in a ten feet rail end-ways, 
and it buries itself without any other force than its own weight ; 
another embraces near a quarter of an acre, over which grows 
9 very fine and short grass. May it not be reasonable to account 
forsoinanv of the mammoth's bones being deposited at this place, 
by presuming, that in their seeking the saltwater, and venturing a ' 
little too far, or otherwise that their own enormous weight pushing 
them forward too far for recovery, and sinking, thus were buried 
one after another to the number we now find their remains. The 
places where their bones are now found are tolerably hard, from 
filling up by the washings of tlie small stream which runs through ' 
them, and from having been much dug up, and the mud exposed 
to the sun."*" 

* It may be noticed Ikto, that an entire skeleton of this wonderful animal is 
to be seen in Peale's IMlselji, Philadelphia, where I found the following account. 

" It was iiccidentally tliscovered in Ulster county, New York, on a farm belonging 
to John Masten, a-; he was digging marlo from a morass; many of the bones were 



THE OHIO EIVER. S69 

About four o'clock in the afternoon the breeze moderated, and 
we set sail. The settlements were now so thin, that we deemed it 
expedient to look out for a lodging betimes, and a little after sun- 
set we espied an opening, when Captain Baen and I went ashore, but 
we had to climb a precipice about 100 feet high before we reached it. 
After walking a little way we saw a house, but looking into it, we 
found it occupied by negroes only, and they told us that we could 
not get lodgings nearer than captain Hawes', on the banks of the 
river, distant two miles. We hailed the boat, and communicated 
this intelligence ; and it was agreed that our friends should drop 
down with the current, while we walked along the bank. As we 
were leaving the negro house, we were assailed by some dogs, and 
turned aside to chastise them ; but it being now nearly dark, we 
mistook our path, and wandered inadvertently along a bye-path 
into the woods. The path became more and more uneven ; the 
woods became more thick; and the darkness increased. Under 
these circumstances we wandered more than half an hour, when, 
having lost all trace of the path, we found ourselves entangled in a 
thicket; and in attempting to disengage ourselves, we fell souse 
together over a large tree, and tumbled into a den, where we lay 
for some time, stunned by the fall. I now thought we had pro- 
ceeded far enough in this direction, and proposed to the captain 
that we should call a halt, for if we persevered, we would, in all 
probability, lose all idea of our situation, and might wander far 
out of our way. He concurred with me in opinion, and it v.as 
agreed that we should take the direction which we supposed led 
towards the river ; and if we did not find it in half an hour, we 
should then camp in the woods all night. In pursuance of this re- 
solution we walked on a considerable time, when, almost in de- 
spair of finding the right way, the captain called, " there's the 
river." This was a most joyful sound to my ears, the more so as I 

then taken up, with great but ill-directed exertions, until the pursuit was stopped by 
the continual influx of water from springs in the morass. 

" In the year 1301, C. W. Peale, having purchased the bones already found, and 
the right of digging for tlie remainder, favoured by an unusually dry season, cou- 
ktructed machinery to throw out the water, employed a number of hands, and after a- 
bout six weeks' anxious labour, success so far crowned his enterprise, tliat he was able 
to put together a skeleton of this great kon-desckift, perfect in every part except 
tlie cranium." 

Mr. Peale also discovered another skeleton, a few mile* diUant from ilio abyvs 
vliich Ids son, lltmbraudt Tealc, carried to Europe. 

47 



S70 TRAVELS ON 

Ibimd niy conjecture correct ; in place of walking towards the 
river, as we supposed, we were marching along its banks, in a di- 
rection the very reverse of that which led to captain Hawes' ; and 
on reaching the right road, we found we were not many yar*ds 
from where we were assailed by the dogs. 

We now travelled very quickly, but it was near 1 1 o'clock be- 
fore we reached captain Hawes' ; and to compensate for our toil, 
we expected that our friends would be there before us, and have a 
comfortable supper prepared. But we were sadly disappointed : 
they had nut arrived, and we could perceive no trace of them on 
the river. Ci4)tain Hawes' family had gone to bed, and it was 
with some difficulty we roused them, after which we went to the 
bank of the river to hail the boat; but after shouting till we were 
hoarse, we could hear no return. 

We were now in a sad dilemma, for we supposed our friends 
had fallen asleep in the boat, and must have floated past the plan- 
tation. One of the people in Mr. Hawes' house advised us to go 
close to the edge of the river, and hail, assuring us that our voice 
could be heard above three miles up and down the stream. VVe 
followed his advice, and shouted till we made all the woods ring. 
At last we heard a very distant response up the river. It was our 
friends. We hailed several times, and had as many returns, but it 
was above an hour before they reached us. On their arrival they 
informed us, that they had fallen asleep in the boat, and were 
awoke by our first shouting, but thought they must have floated 
past, and were pulling up the river as hard as they could, when 
they heard our second call ; at which time they judged they coulj 
not be less than three miles distant. 

Having secured our boat, we went together to the house, when 
the captain and I found we had got unwelcome great coats ; we were 
literally covered from head to foot with a species of burr called 
wood-lice. When we had finished our supper, we learned that 
there would be some little difficulty in procuring beds, as several 
lod^-ers had <Tot before us. An Irish stranger had got the best bed 
in the house, by the fire-side, and, mistaking me for a country- 
man, he prolfered me a share of it. It was too good an offer to be 
neglected ; so in imitation of my humorous landlord at Wilton, I 
tuldliim, " I was not just acountryman neither, butwas thenextdoor 
neighbour to it, which came to the same thing," so I would ac- 
ce'U of his oner with pleasure. The two captains got stowed away. 



THE OHIO EIVER. 371 

in another apartment, and, being predisposed by the fatigues of 
the evening, we enjoyed a very comfortable repose. 

September 16. We started at 6 o'clock in the morning: the 
weather v\-as clear and cahn ; the temperature of the air 62°, of 
the water 68°. The river is here about TOO yards wide, and is a 
beautiful stream. The country is bedded on limestone, and ap- 
pears healthy, but the settlements are very thin. When we had 
proceeded eight miles, we found the breeze so strong, tiiat we were 
not able to make head way against it, and v/e stopped at a planta- 
tion on the Kentucky side, wliere we saw a very handsome (ioid of 
cotton, called here a cotton j'^^fc/i. W^e were now in sight of a 
Swiss settlement on the other side of the river, to which, on ac- 
count of the head wind, we moved M'ith difficulty ; but on our ar- 
rival we were very much gratified by the appearance of this thriv- 
ing colony. We were told that they emigrated to America about 
10 years ago, and first attempted the business of vine-drcssinn- on 
the Kentucky river ; but not succeeding to their wish, they moved 
to this place, which they found to answer very well. We found 
the vinej'ards in very good order, and the grapes, which were at 
full maturity, hung in most luxuriant clusters. They were of two 
kinds, claret and Madeira, both reputed to be of the best quality, 
and the sample which we tasted had an excellent flavour. The 
wine consisted of two kinds, of course, claret and Madeira. The 
claret was rich in quality, but too acid. It was, however, a very 
palatable and pleasant beverage when diluted with water. The 
Madeira wine we found very unpalatable, but we were informed 
that it wanted age. The person who gave us our information said 
the colony consisted of about 56 persons, who were all vine-dress- 
ers, but they had no connection together in busijiess. Each family 
was independent within itself. They have farms besides the vine- 
yards, and they make all their clothing, so that the produce of the 
wine is so much added to their stock. Last year they sold 2i00 
gallons at one dollar and a half per gallon ; this year they will 
sell 3000 ; and they are very sanguine that they will be able lo 
bring the business to full maturity. Their markets are, Cincinna- 
ti, Frankfort, Lexington, and St. Louis, 'i hey represent the cli- 
mate as healthy ; but the weather is changeable, and the heat in 
summer is very great, being from 2if to 26° of Reaumur*. This 
summer it was at one time as high as 3]^°;f but this was the 

* Fahrenheit 86° to 90i°. f Fahr. ICi®. 



372 TRAVELS ON 

warmest summer they ever experienced. The north-west winds are 
cold ; south, south-east, and south-west winds are warm in sum- 
mer, and mild in winter; and they are the most prevalent. 

Seven miles below this we reached Port William, at the mouth 
of Kentucky river, where we stopped for the night. Port William 
is a small place, consisting of about 15 families only; and being 
subject to fever and ague in the fall, it is not liltely to increase very 
fast. We were informed here, that some of the country people 
still retain their vicious propensity for fighting, biting, and goug- 
ing, and that they had lately introduced stabbing; a practice which 
had been learned at New Orleans ; but the laws being very severe 
against these vices, the lawless were kept in check, and the state 
of society was improving. The comet this night was uncommonly 
vivid. The evening was very warm, the thermometer being TS'*. 
Kentucky river is here 200 yards wide. 

Sep. 17. We set out at 5 o'clock : the morning was foggy ; the 
temperatui'e of the air 62°, of the water 71 <=■. Twelve miles be- 
low Kentucky river v/e came to a town called Madison, recently laid 
out in the Indiana territory, as the capital of Jefferson county. It 
is situated on a fertile bottom, and contains 12 families; 3 taverns 
and 2 stores, 2 blacksmiths, 2 hatters, 1 brickmaker, and 1 stone- 
mason. The back country is rich, and settling very fast- The 
country here appears rather level, but to the southward it becomes 
more elevated. A short time after leaving this place, there was a 
great eclipse of the sun, and the water and surrounding scenery as- 
sumed a very dismal appearance here while it lasted. In the even- 
ing we reached another new town on the Indiana, territory, called 
Bethlehem, and here we stopped all night. 

The inhabitants here were a collection from different quarters. — 
Our accommodations were very indifferent, but, to use their own 
phrase, they were ncrv settlers, and we must not expect niceties. — 
The town is laid out on a fine rich bottom, three streets being pa- 
rallel to the river, and three cross at right angles. The township 
extends along the river five miles, and one and a quarter into the 
interior of the country. The lots arc half an acre each, and sell 
at present for 60 dollars. 

September IS. — We started this morning at 6 o'clock. The 
river is here three quarters of a mile broad, and exhibits a noble 
appearance. As we proceeded downward we perceived a heaviness 
in the atmosphere, an evident sign that the soudi winds waft marsh 



THE OHIO RIVEB* 373 

effluvia to this place, which may account for the fever and ague that 
sometimes prevails in the fall. We now observed that the people 
were pale in colour, and had not that rosy hue which they have 
above in Cincinnati ; but it is to be remarked, that they are mostly 
new settlers, and are very mixed. The river widened out as we pro- 
ceeded to the falls, above which a good way, on the Kentucky side, 
there are many rich settlements. We heard the sound of the falls 
when six miles distant, and we came to a landing at Louisville at 1 1 
o'clock at night. 

From the observations made on this fine river, in my progress, 
the reader will be able to form a pretty accurate idea of it above 
the falls. In my account of Louisville, I shall advert to the falls 
themselves, and shall close this chapter by a short account of the 
river below the falls, together with a few incidental remarks on some 
particulars relative to the river generally. 

The length of the river, from the falls to the Mississippi, is, ac- 
cording to Mr. Ellicot, 483 miles. It is 795 miles from Pittsburg 
to the falls, making the whole length of the Ohio 1188 miles. — 
The breadth below the falls continues nearly the same as above them, 
from 600 to 700 yards, till within 100 miles of the Mississippi, 
when it is 1000 yards. 

The scenery on the river below the falls is agreeably variegated 
with hills and plains for about 50 miles, when the country on each 
side becomes quite level for 150 miles. It then swells out into hills, 
which continue a considerable way, and again subsides into level 
plains, which continue to the junction of the Ohio with the Missis- 
sippi. The point of land at the confluence of the rivers, which is 
apt to excite so much attention in the map, is subject to be inun- 
dated by the vast freshets in these mighty waters, and it is thence 
marshy and uncultivated. 

The banks of the river are as yet but thinly settled below the 
falls, and the country is said not to be so healthy as above them ; 
though the soil is good, and it will all be settled up at no great dis- 
tance of time. 

The Ohio receives the watei-s of very considerable rivers between 
the fall and the Mississippi, viz. on the Kentucky side, Salt river, 
navigable 50 miles ; Green river, navigable 160 miles; Cumber- 
land river, navigable 300 or 400 miles ; and Tennessee river, na- 
vigable 1200 or 1400 miles; on the Indiana side, Blue river, navi- 
gable 40 miles; and the Wabash, navigable upwards of 200 miles. 



374 TRAVELS ON 

The navigation is easy to the falls, and, after overcominp; that 
single obstruction, thence to Cincinnati and Limestone. From 
Limestone to Wheeling there area number of swift currents at the 
islands; but they present no material obstruction, except when the 
water is very low. From Wheeling to Pittsburg, the number of 
these swift currents are increased, and they are more difficult to 
pass ; but the water is very seldom in such a state as to be impas- 
gable in keel-boats. In skiffs it is passable at all times. 

The velocity of the current depends upon the quantity of water, 
which is exceedingly various. When I descended, it was in the 
lowest state ; and I did not calculate the velocity to be more than 
a mile an hour, including the ripples and Letart's falls. In spring 
and fall, particularly in spring, it rises to the astonishing height of 
from 40 to 60 feet, when the velocity is augmented in proportion. 

The greatest velocity seems not to exceed 4 miles an hour. 

The prevailing winds here are from the south and south-west, 
and blow up the river, often exhibiting the appearance of the 
trade-winds of the West Indies, setting in about 8 or 9 o'clock in 
the morning, and dying away at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon. 
These are of great consequence in the navigation of the river up- 
wards. Judging from the winds and current, when we descended, 
I presumed that we could have sailed from the falls to Pittsburg 
in little more than half the time w^e were in coming down. In 
high water, boats have passed from Pittsburg to the mouth of the 
Ohio in 15 days. Ten days is reckoned a quick passage to the 
falls. 

The principal articles of trade downwards are flour, iron, tin 
and copper-wares, cabinet-work, glass, mill-stones, grindstones, 
apples, cyder, porter, whiskey, and peach-brandy. Upwards, 
they are cotton, hemp, hemp manufactures, lead, salt, and some- 
times suo-ar and coffee from New Orleans. 

The Ohio abounds with a great variety of fish, among which 
are catfish, pike, perch, and sturgeon ; and on the banks are 
great numbers of wild turkies, geese, ducks, pheasants, partridg- 
es, &c. 

The banks of the river are generally heavily timbered. The 
principal kinds of timber are oak, hickory, walnut, mulberry, 
chesnut, ash, cherry, locust, sugar-tree, &c. ; and the Fycamore» 
towering above the whole, grows here to an astonishing size. I 
noticed the remains of a very large sycamore tree in the neigh- 



THE OHIO laVER. 



375 



bourhood of Pittsburg, aiul I saw most surprizing specimens on 
the banks of this river. I did not measure any of them; but the 
editor ot the Pittsburg Navigator, to whose testimony full faith 
may be given, mentions that he measured several from 10 to IG 
feet ]n diameter. A gentleman frojn Marietta told him that he 
knew of one GO feet in circumference, and that, in the hollo w^ of 
another, he had turned himself round, with a pole in his hand 
10 feet lono-. Into the hollow of another 13 men rode on horse- 
back, in June 1806, and the fourteenth was only prevented by the 
skittishness of his horse. 

The climate is delightful, and, except in some places in the 
neighbourhood of ponds, which can be easil}' drained, is perfect- 
ly healthy, particularly between Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The 
fogs that rise on the river are by no means uncongenial to health ; 
indeed, I think they are x'ather the rever&e; being the pure wa- 
ter o^ the Ohio in a state of vapour. Aqueous vapour contains a 
much larger proportion of vital air than the atmosphere; and it is 
never too cold for the lungs, as it rises only in summer, when the 
heat of the water is greater than the atmosphere. From a number 
of experiments, which I made with an accurate thermometer, I 
found that, in the night, the temperature of the air fre- 
quently fell from 10 to 25 degrees below the water, and 
when this was the case, the vapour rose, increasing with 
the disproportion of temperature between the two fluids. 
A frequent result in the morning, at sun-rise, was, air about e0°, 
water about 71° of temperature. About 7 o'clock, the influence 
of the sun begins to be felt, and the fog to disperse ; and, by the 
time that the air is heated to the same degree as the water, which 
seldom exceeils 8 or 9 o'clock, the fog - wholly disappears. A 
never-failing result of my observations was, that, when the two 
fluids were near the same degree of temperature, or when the air 
was warmer than the water, there was no fog. 

From this view of the subject it will be inferred, that the banks 
are congenial to all sorts of vegetation; and fruits flourish in j:u 
eminent degree. In these fogs, therefore, we see the bounty of 
Providence displayed in the economy of nature. The Oliio runs in 
a deep bed, and forms such a drain as is calculated to deprive 
the acljohiiug banks of their moisture; but these fogs lend their 
kindly assistance to supply the defect, and their bahnv influence U 



O/O TRAVELS ON 

highly beneficial to the animal and vegetable creations, both of 
which flourish here in a very eminent degree. 

Thirty years ago, the whole country on the banks of this river 
was almost an entire wilderness. Twenty years ago, a friend of 
mine descended, and could hardly get provisions by the way. 
When I descended, I found it;^ banks studded with towns and 
farm-houses, so close that I slept on shore every night. I have 
no doubt but that, in 20 years more, the change will surpass all 
calculation ; and, in process of time, the banks of this river will 
exhibit one continued village, from Pittsburg to the falls ; the 
settlements being thickest, probably, between Limestone and Cin- 
cinnati, vvhicii situation I would at present prefer to any on the 
river. 

What a fine prospect is held out here to the human race ! and 
how delightful the contemplation of it to a benevolent mind ! The 
whole of the banks of this beautiful river are fit for cultivation. 
Allowing it, therefore, to be divided into farms of 160 acres each, 
having a quarter of a mile on the river, and a mile back from it, 
and each farm to maintain 10 persons, the district from Pitts- 
burg to the falls would contain upwards of 60,000 souls; and 
their surplus produce would support double that number of in- 
dustrious tradesmen and their families, in the various towns settled 
upon it. To continue the settlements to New Orleans, the num- 
ber would be nearly 300,000. And yet this is but a small portion 
of the western country, the rivers of whicl), emptying into the 
Mississipj)i alone, water more than a million of square miles of 
fertile land, capable of supporting 200 millions of inhabitants. 
Here, indeed, is room enough for mankind to the thousandth 
and thousandeth generation ; and blessed are ihey who, looking 
up to Heaven, and to their own soil and industry, act in obe- 
dience to the command of God, " Be fruitful, and multiply, and 
replenish the earth." 



THE OHIO RIVER. 



377 



CHAPTER LXXVI. 

Louisville^ — Jeffersonville, — Clarhvillef — Falls of the Ohio. 

liOUISVILLE is situated opposite the falls of the Ohio, on 
an elevation of 70 feet above the river, and extends along it from 
Bear Grass creek nearly half a mile. Its breadth is about half 
that distance. It is regularly laid out, with streets crossing one 
another at right angles ; but the principal buildings are confined 
to one street. It consists of about 250 houses, many of them 
handsome brick buildings, and contains 1357 inhabitants, of 
whom 484 are slaves. Being a place of great resort on the river, 
it has an ample number of taverns and stores. Except the manu- 
facture of ropes, rope-yarn, and cotton-bagging, which are car- 
ried on with spirit, there are no other manufactures of importance 
at Louisville, and the tradesmen are such as are calculated for the 
country. The price of labour here is nearly the same as at Cin- 
cinnati. Some articles of provision are dearer, this being a more 
convenient port for shipping than any above it. When I was 
there, flour sold for 5 dollars 50 cents per barrel ; meal 50 cents 
per cwt. Boarding was from 1 dollar 25 cents to 2 dollars per 
week. 

Louisville, being the principal pofrt of the western part of the 
state of Kentucky, is a market for the purchase of all kinds of 
produce, and the quantity that is annually shipped down the river 
is immense. A few of the articles, with the prices at the time 
that I was there, may be noticed. Flour and meal have been quot- 
ed. Wheat was 62^ cents per bushel; corn 50; rye 42; oats 25; 
hemp 4 dollars 50 cents per cwt. ; tobacco 2 dollars. Horses ^S 
to lOOdolIai's; cows 10 to 15 dollars; sheep 1 dollar 25 cents 
to 5 dollars ; negroes about 400 dollars; cotton bagging 31^ cents 
per yard. 

As to the state of society I cannot say much. The place is 
composed ot people from all quarters, who are principally engag- 
ed in commerce; rnd a great number of the traders on the Ohio 
are constantly at this place, whose example will be nothing in 
favour of the young ; and slavery is against society every where. 
There are several schools, but none of them are under public 
patronage; and education seems to be but indifferently attended 

48 



37 S TRAVELS ON 

to. Upon the whole, I must say, that the state of public moral* 
admits of considerable improvement here; but indeed I saw 
Louisville at a season when a iiumber of the most respectable 
people were out of the place. Those with whom I had business 
wei'e j^entlemcn, and I hope there are a sufficient number of them 
to check the progress of gaming and drinking, and to teach the 
young and the thoughtless, that mankind, without virtue and in- 
dustry, cannot be happy. 

■ Jkffersokville is situated on the opposite side of the river, a 
little above Louisville, and is the capital of Clark county, in the 
Lidiana territory. It was laid out in 1802 and now contains about 
200 inhabitants, among whom are some useful mechanics. The 
United States have a land-office at this place, but the principal 
objects of my inquiry being more to the eastward, I did not 
visit it. There is a good landing at Jeffersonville, and, as the 
best passnge is through what is called the Indian Shute, it is pro- 
bable that this place will materially interfere with the trade of 
Louisville, unless it be prevented by a plan to be hereafter noticed, 
in which case, each side will have its own share of the valuable 
commerce of this river ; which, as it is yearly encrcasing, cannot 
fail to convert both sides of the Ohio here into great settlements. 

Clarksvillc, a small village, is situated at the foot of the fall* 
on the Indiana side, as is Shippingport, on the Kentucky side; 
and both answer for re-shipping produce after vessels pass the falls. 

The Falls, or rather rapids of the Ohio, are occasioned by a 
ledge of rocks, which stretches quite across the river; and through 
which -it has forced a passage by several channels. The descent 
is only 22 feet in the course of two miles, and in high water is 
only to be perceived in the encreased velocity of the current, when 
the largest vessels pass over it in safety. When I was there, the 
water was low, and I observed three different passages, of which 
that on the Indiana side, called Indian Shute, is said to be the 
best ; the middle one next best ; the one on the Kentucky side 
cannot be passed, except when the water is pretty full. But when 
the water is very low, they are all attended with danger, less or 
more, of which we saw an instance in a boat that came down the 
liver along with us. Her caigo was imloaded at Louisville, and 
she proceeded down the river; but, on taking the stream, she struck 
on the rocks, and lay there a wreck, when I came away. GoocJ 
pilots have been appointed to carry vessels over the falls. 




FALLS of OHIO 



TBadge. 



THE OHIO RIVER. ^^ 

On visiting this place, a question immediately occurs : Why is 
a canal not cut here, which would remove the only obstruction to 
the trade of this fine river? It appears that the subject has been 
long in contemplation, and a company was incorporated by the 
legislature of Kentucky to carry it into effect. The ground has 
be°en surveyed, and no impediment has been suggested to the; ex- 
ecution of the plan, except that there is a danger of the locks 
beincr injured by the freshets in the river, which, however, caii be 
<Tuai5ed ao-ainst. But sufficient funds have not yet been raised, 
and it is said that an opinion prevails here, that the execution of 
a canal would hurt the trade of Louisville. As to funds, there 
should be no lack, for this is an object of national utility, m 
which the rich states of Kentucky, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and 
Ohio are particularly interested. No very great sum can be 
wanted to cut a canal, with only 22 feet fall, the distance of two 
miles, in a situation where stones are plenty; and if it is found 
that individuals would not wish to embark their capital in it, there 
is no question but the United States, and the individual states 
noticed, would fill up the subscription, were the matter judicious- 
ly laid before them. As to the supposition that it would hurt the 
trade of Louisville, if it exists, it is founded on very narrow policy, 
and is just as correct an idea, as that a good turnpike road leading 
through a town, will hurt the trade of that town. A free com- 
municlition through a country is favourable to every portion of 
that country ; and were a canal cut upon the Kentucky side here, 
it would not only counterbalance the benefit arising to the other 
side from the Indian Shute, but would be productive of advan- 
tao-es to Louisville, that at present cannot be estimated. The mills 
alone that might be erected, and set in motion by a judicious ap- 
plication of the water, would be of more intrinsic .value than a 

gold mine. 

The following table, exhibiting the commerce on the Ohio, is 
extracted from \he Pittsburg Navigator, and shows the import- 
ance of this place, and the vast utility of a canal. 

Commerce of the Ohio from November 24th, 1810, to Janu- 
ary 24 th, 1811. 

In these two months 197 flat-boats, and 14 kccl-boals descend- 
ed the falls of the Ohio, carrying 



380 TRAVELS ON THE OHIO RIVER. 

18,611 bls» flour 
520 do. pork 
2,373 do. whiskey 
3,759 do. apples 
1,085 do. cyder 
721 do. do. royal 
43 do. do. wine 
323 do. peach-brandy 
46 do. cherry-bounce 
17 do. vinegar 
143 do. porter 
62 do. beans 
67 do. onions 
20 do. ginseng 
200 groce bottled porter 
260 gallons Seneca oil 
1,526 lbs. butter 
180 do. tallow 
64,750 do. lard 
6,300 do. beef 
4,433 do. cheese 
Also, a large quantity of potter's ware, ironmongery, cabinet- 
work, shoes, boots, and saddlery ; the amount of which could not 
be correctly ascertained. 

The country round Louisville is rich, but it is not well drained 
nor cultivated, and is consequently subject to fever and ague in 
the fall. There are a great many ponds in the neighbourhood of 
the town ; at one of them, I observed a rope-walk erecting, and 
the people were draining the pond, by sinking a deep well, and 
letting the water run into it, which answered the purpose remark- 
ably well. It would appear hence, that the water filtrates to the 
river below ground, and perhaps this plan might be generally a- 
dopted. I am persuaded that nothing but draining is wanted to 
render Louisville quite healthy, and one of the most agreeable 
situations on the Ohio river. 



681,900 lbs. pork in bulk 
4,609 do. bacon 
59 do. soap 
300 do. feathers 
400 do. hemp 
1,484 do. thread 
154,000 do. rope-yarn 
20,784 do. bale-rope 
27,700 yards bagging 
4,619 do. tow-cloth 
479 coils tarred rope 
500 bushels oats 
1,700 do. corn 
216 do. potatoes 
817 hams venison 
14,390 tame fowls 
155 horses 
286 slaves 
18,000 feet cherry plank 
279,300 do. pine do. 



INDIANA TERRITORY. 



CHAPTER LXXVII. 



381 



Indiana Tenitory^ — Illinois Territmy, — North'Wesf TetTitorij, — 
Louisiana Territory, — Orleans Territory, — Mississippi Terri- 
tory, Mississippi riv^r. 

JjEING now at the ne phis ultra of my journey to the westward, 
I shall here take a brief view of the western territories. 

INDIANA TERRITORY 

Is situated between north hititude 37° 47' and 41° 50'; and 
west longitude 7° 40' and 10° 45'. Its greatest length is 284 
miles, and its breadth 155. Its area is 39,000 square miles; or, 
24,960.000 acres. 

The face of the country is hill}', not mountainous, and the 
scenery is said to be rich and variegated, abounding with plains 
and large prairies. 

The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a beau- 
tiful stream, 280 yards broad at its outlet, and navigable upwards 
of 220 miles. It rises near the boundary line between the state of 
Ohio and the Indiana Territory, about 100 miles from lake Erie, 
where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the 
Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the dis- 
tance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 miles. 
A greafsmany tributary streams flow into it, the chief of which is 
White river, upwards of 200 miles long. Tippacanoe river, near 
which are the largest settlements of Indians in the territory, falls 
into the Wabash ; and it is near the outlet of that river where the 
Prophet is at present collecting his forces. 

The soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. 

The climate is delightful, except in the neighbourhood of marsh- 
es, chiefly confined to the lower parts of the territory. 

The settlements commenced about 12 or 14 years ago, and have 
made considerable progress, though they have been retarded by 
the settlement of the fertile and beautiful state of Ohio, which is? 
situated between this and the old states. 

The greater part of the territory is yet subject to Indian claims. 
Where they have been extinguished, and the white settlements have 
been made, it is divided into four counties, and 22 townships, th» 



382 INDIANA TERRITORY, 

greater part of which are on the Ohio : and some few on the 
Wabash and White-water river. The inhabitants amounted, by 
the census of 1800, to 5641 ; they now amount to 24,520, being 
an increase of 18,879 in 10 years. 

The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabash. It is an old 
settlement, and the inhabitants are mostly of French extraction ; 
they amounted, by last census, to 670. The greater part of the 
others have been noticed. 

The agriculture of the territory is nearly the same as that of the 
state of Ohio. Every kind of grain, grass, and fruit comes to 
maturity, and towards the southern part of it considerable crops of 
cotton are raised, though only for domestic use. 

As the inhabitants make nearly all their own clothing, they have 
little external trade. What little they have is down the river to 
New Orleans. 

This, in common with the other territories, is under the imme- 
diate controul of the government of the United States. It has a 
certain form of government prescribed by a special ordinance of 
congress, by which the religious and political rights of the mem- 
bers of the community are guaranteed. In this ordinance it is 
declared, that no person demeaning himself in a peaceable and 
orderly manner shall ever be molested on account of his religion. 
The inhabitants shall always be entitled to the benefits of the writ 
of habeas corpus, and the trial by jury. All offences shall be bail- 
able unless they are capital. Fines shall be moderate. Religion, 
morality, and knowledge, being necessary to good government and 
the hap{)iness of mankind, schools and the means of education shall 
for ever be encouraged. Good faith shall always be observed to 
the Indians, and their lands shall never be taken from them with- 
out their consent. The navigable waters leadiu": into the Missis- 
sippi and St. Lawrence, and the carrying places between the same, 
shall be common highways, and for ever free, as well to the inha- 
bitants of the said territories as to the citizens of the United States, 
and those of any other states that may be admitted into the 
confedcrac}', without any tax, impost, or duty therefore. 
Whenever any of the territories shall have 60,000 free inhabitants, 
they shall be erected into a state, to be admitted, by its delegates, 
into the congress of the United States, on an equal footing with 
the original states. Slavery was originally prohibited, but the 
law has been relaxed in favour of the new settlers who have slaves, 
and there are now 237 slaves in this territory. 



ILLINOIS TERRITORY. SS3 



ILLINOIS TERRITORY 

. Is situated between 36° 57' and 41° 50' north latitude; and 10^ 
15' and 14° 5' west longitude. Its greatest lenn;th is 347 miles, and 
its greatest breadth 20G. Its area is 52,000 square miles ; being 
33,280,000 acres. 

The face of the country is very much assimilated to that of the 
Indiana Territory ; but towards the south the surface becomes very 
level, and the point of land between the Mississippi and Ohio 
rivers is frequently overflowed. 

It is washed on the westward by the noble Mississippi river, and 
on the south by the Ohio. In the interior are many considerable 
streams, nearly all emptying into the Mississippi. Beginning at 
the northern extremit}', the first is Stoney river, a large navigable 
stream upwards of 220 miles long, and having fertile banks. The 
Illinois is a very large navigable river, rising near the south end of 
lake Michigan, and pursuing a course nearly south-west, it falls 
into the Mississippi, about 20 miles above its junction with the 
Missouri ; its whole length being nearly 500 miles. The lands on 
the banks of this river are represented as being very rich, produc- 
ing grain, grass, flax, hemp, fruit, &e. Kaskaskia is a large river, 
navigable for boats 150 miles into the interior of the country; its 
whole length being about 200 miles. The country on its banks is 
said to be healthy- 

The soil and climate are the same as in the Indiana Territory, 
except in the low part, which is marshy, and not quite so healthy. 

Some settlements were made in this territory by the French at an 
early period, but it is only of late that any material progress has 
been made. The parts of it that are settled have been divided in- 
to two counties and 13 townships; containing 12,282 inhabitants, 
of whom 168 are slaves. 

Kaskaskia, which contains 622 inhabitants, is the principal 
town. 

The remarks relative to agriculture, produce, government. Sic. 
made on the Indiana Territory, apply to this. 



SS^ THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 



THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 

Tliis large tract has no name on the maps, but, in consequence 
ef its position, I have given it the above designation liere. It is 
bounded on the west by the Mississippi river, on the east by lake 
Michigan, and the straits of St. Mary, on the south by the two 
territories just noticed, and on the north by lake Superior and the 
r>ritish possessions. The territory is about 486 miles long, by 
417 broad; and contains 106,830 square miles, or 68,371,200 
ncres. 

I'hc face of the country is pi'etty similar to the territories last 
noticed. It is elegantly watered. The Mississippi washes it upon 
the west, lake Michigan on the east, lake Superior upon the north ; 
und it has several fine rivers in the interior. Towards the north 
there are a number of considerable streams which fall into the 
Mississippi, that nearly interlock with others that fall into lake 
Superior. But the largest river in the territory is the Ouisconsin, 
which rises within 50 miles of lake Superior, and after a course of 
400 miles falls into the Mississippi, 350 miles above the Missouri. 
Fox river rises in the high lands near the banks of the last mention- 
ed river, and runs nearly parallel to it for 50 miles, at one place 
approaching within 3 miles of it. From thente it pursues a north- 
east course, and passing through Winnebago lake, falls into 
Grcenbay, a branch of lake Michigan. Both these rivers are na- 
\igable, and in a future stage of population they will probably 
form an excellent communication between the lakes and the Mis- 
sissippi. 

This territory is said to contain a great deal of good soil, par- 
ticularly towards the south, and will, in process of time, become 
the scat of very valuable settlements. 

The climate is pleasant towards the south, being assimilated to 
that of the western parts of New- York, but to'.» ards the north it 
becomes very cold; though, being within the influence of the ae- 
rial current of the Mississippi, it is not so cold as the region pa- 
rallel to it east of the mountains. 

Very few settlements of white people have yet been made in this 
territory ; and the Indian claim to the lands remain, I believe, en- 
tire, throughout the whole district ; fo that it has not yet been form- 
ed into a territorial government, and the inhabitants are not includ- 
«d in the census of the United States, 



LOUISIANA, 385 



LOUISIANA 

Is an immense territory, bounded by the Mississippi on the east; 
by the Spanish possessions on the west; by Orleans territory and 
the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and on the north by the British 
possessions. It extends from the Gulf of Mexico, in latitude 28° 
to 48® north, and from west longitude 12° 50' to 35° ; being 1494. 
miles long, from north to south, and, though the western boundary 
has not been clearly ascertained, the breadth may be assumed at 886 
miles. Its area may be computed at neary 985,250 square miles, 
or 6300,560,000 acres. 

In such an amazing extent of territory the face of the country 
must be exceedingly diversified. Towards the south the land is 
low, and in many places overflowed by rivers. To the north it be- 
comes elevated, in many places swelling out into large hills ; and 
towards the west there are very lofty mountains. 

The rivers are numerous and extensive, and form a remarkable 
feature in the geography of this country. The Mississippi washes 
it on the east, including its windings, upwards of 2000 miles, and 
it has in the interior some of the finest rivers in the world. 

The principal river is the Missouri, which, indeed, is the largest 
branch of the Mississipi. The sources of this river are still un- 
known, although one of its branches was navigated by Lewis and 
Clark 3090 miles, where it is enclosed by very lofty mountains. 
Below this 242 miles, there is a confluence of three different branch- 
es of the head waters, in lat. 45° 23'; from thence the river appears 
to bend considerably to the northwai'd, the great falls being in lat. 
47° 3', distant from the mouth of the river 2575 miles. These falls 
are 18 miles long, and in that distance descend 362 feet. The first 
great pitch is 98 feet, the second 19, the third 48, the fourth 26, and 
other pitches and rapids make up the quantity above mentioned. 
In lat. 47° 24', the river forms a junction with another nearly as 
large, and it is here 372 yards broad. In lat. 47 , 2270 miles from 
its outlet, it is clear and beautiful, and 300 yards wide. At 1888 
miles from its outlet it is 527 yards wide, its current deep, rapid, 
and full of sand bars. At 1610 miles a fort has been erected, call- 
ed Fort Mandan, in lat. 47° 21'; and here the winters arerepre. 
sented as being very cold. From thence to the mouth the naviga. 
lion is very good, the current beinor deep and rapid, and the water 

"49 



3S6 LOUISIANA. 

muddy. Its breadth is various, from 300 to 800 yards; and at the 
outlet in 38° 45' it is about 700 yards broad. In its progress it is 
augmented by a vast number of streams, the principal of which are 
Yellow Stone, Little Missouri, Piatt, Kanzas, and Osage. 

The Moin, a very considerable river, falls into the Mississippi 
about 200 miles above the Missouri, and below the falls of St. An- 
thony, iu lat. 45°, St. Peter's river, a very large stream, falls into 
the Mississippi. 

St. Francis rises near St. Louis, and running nearly a south 
course, upwards of 350 miles, falls into the Mississippi, in lat. 44" 
45', by a channel 200 yards broad. It is said to be navigable 200 
miles. 

Arkansas is a very large river, rising in Mexico, and running a 
south-east course, falls into the Mississippi, in lat. 33° 45'; being 
navigable 300 or 400 miles. 

Red river, and Black river are two very large streams, rising be- 
tween the lat. of 35 and 36°, about 100 miles apart ; and running 
nearly 600 niiles, they form a junction about 23 miles from the Mis- 
sissippi, which they enter in lat. 31° 5', 1014 miles below the 
Missouri. 

There are a great number of rivers to the westward, falling into 
the Gulf oi' Mexico; but owing to the country being little known, 
they do not seem to have excited much interest. One of the prin- 
cipal is the Sabine, the western boundary of the Orleans territory. 

The territory is said to abound with valuable minerals, of every 
description ; but the branch that seems to have excited greatest at^ 
tention is the lead mines, near St. Genevieve, which yield annu- 
ally a vast quantity of that useful commodity. 

The soil and climate of Louisiana are said to be similar in every 
respect to that of the countries lying parallel to it east of the Mis- 
sissippi. Near that river the soil is rich, and the climate temperate ; 
but it becomes more cold to the westward, and towards the moun- 
tains the cold is represented as being very severe; the soil being 
sterile, and the brooks in many places strongly impregnated with salt* 

This country was discovered by Sebastian Cabot, in 1497. In 
1512, John Pontio^de Leon, a Spaniard, arrived on the coast, and 
attempted a settlement. In 1684, Mons. de la Sale discovered the 
mouth of the Mississippi, and built Fort Lewis; but he being as- 
sassinated, it was abandoned till 1698, when captain Iberville pene- 
trated up the Mississippi, and having planted a few settlers, called 



LOUISIANA. 387 

tlie country Louisiana. About 1720, M. de la Sueur sailed up the 
Mississippi 760 leagues. About this time John Law, a Scotsman, 
projected the famous Mississippi scheme, which bubble burst in the 
year 1731, after involving many respectable merchant.': in ruin. In 
1762 the French government ceded Louisiana and the Isle of Or- 
leans to Spain. In 1800-1801 Spain ceded the country to the 
French government, who, by the treaty of April 30, 1803, ceded 
it to the United States, and they took possession of it on the 20th 
of December following. 

The territoiy of Louisiana, as ceded, ha? been divided into two 
territorial governments, Louisiana and Orleans. Louisiana is di- 
vided into the following districts : St. Charles, St. Louis, St. Gene- 
vieve, cape Gerardeau, New Madrid, Hopefield, and St. Francis, 
and the settlements on the Arkansas. By the last census it contain- 
ed 20,845 inhabitants, of whom 3,011 are slaves. 

The territory of Orleans being more favourably situated for trade, 
and a disposal of their produce, this territory has as yet made no 
very rapid progress in improvements. The chief settlements are 
near the Missouri, and along the Mississippi to New Madrid ; 
with some on the Arkansas and St. Francis. 

St. Louis is the capital, and contains 1500 inhabitants. It is si- 
tuated on the Mississippi, in lat. 38° 38', in a fine healthy country, 
on a bed of limestone, having rich settlements around it. It is in- 
creasing in population and wealth ; and several manufactories have 
been recently established. 

St. Charles, a handsome vilLige, is situated on the left bank of 
the Missouri, 18 miles from St. Louis, by an excellent I'oad, lead- 
ing through a rich country. In 1807, it contained 500 inhabitants, 
chiefly French ; but many Americans have lately settled in it. St. Ge- 
nevieve contains about 1200 inhabitants, and is increasing in popu- 
lation and wealth ; having about 20 stores, and being the dcposite 
of the produce of the lead mines. 

Gerardeau is a small town, situated on an eminence on the riofht 
side of the Mississippi, and contains from SO to 40 houses only ; but 
it has a fine back country, and is improving. There is a post road 
from this place to Fort Massac and the mouth of the Cum bci land 
river. 

New Madrid is beautifully situated on the Mississippi ; but con- 
tains a few houses only. 

The agriculture and produce of L'pper Louisiana are similar to 



388 



ORLEANS TERIUTORY. 



those of the territories opposite to it. In Lower Louisiana, in addi- 
tion to grain, vegetables, and fruit, they raise cotton in great abun- 
dance, and in some places sugar and indigo. 

The government is the same as the territories east of the Missis- 
sippi ; but to accommodate the original settlers, who had slaves, 
slavery is continued on the same principle as in the southern states. 

ORLEANS TERRITORY 

Comprehends that part of Louisiana which extends from 33** 
north latitude to the Gulf of Mexico ; and from West Florida to 
the Sabine river, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico in west lon- 
gitude 17°. Its extreme length from east to west is 300 miles, and 
breadth from north to south 241. Its area is 41,000 square miles, 
containing 26,240,000 acres. 

This territory is level towards the Gulf of Mexico ; but towards 
the north it bucomes more elevated. It is remai'kably well watered, 
having the Mississippi to the east, and the Gulf of Mexico south ; 
and in the interior are many fine rivers, the principal of which, the 
Red river and Sabine, have been already noticed ; but the Mexi- 
cano and Tache are both considerable streams, falling into the Gulf 
of Mexico. 

Tlie soil is represented to be rich and fertile, producing in abun- 
dance every sort of grain, grass, fruit, and vegetables; besides in- 
digo, cotton, and sugar. The culture of the last has rapidly in- 
creased since the stoppage of the foreign trade, and will, in all pro- 
bability, soon be equal to the supply of the whole United States. 

The climate is nearly assimilated to that of the low parts of South 
Carolina and Georgia, noticed, page 201 : but it is to be observed 
that the trade winds being turned to the north (see page 32,) and 
blowing over this district through its whole extent, they fan and 
cool the air, and render the climatcboth more agreeable and moreheal- 
thy than that of the parallel latitudes to the eastwardof the mountains. 

The liistory of the early settlement of this district is included in 
that of Louisiana. The territory is now divided into 12 counties, 
and by last census contains 76,556 inhabitants, of whom 34,660 
are aiaves, and 7,585 free people of colour.* 

* In 1812, this territory was admitted into the union, an 18th state, bj' the name of 
Louisiana, and will send two senators and one repiescntativeto congress. 



ORLEANS TERRITORY, 389 

Since this territory was ceded to the United States, and they 
have acquired the free navigation of the Mississippi and its waters, 
society has made rapid progress here. The banks of the Missis- 
sippi between New Orleans and Natches are represented as being 
m a high state of cultivation, and the produce is most abundant. 

New Orleans is the capital, and contains 175242 inhabitants, 
including 5,796 slaves, and 4,950 free negroes. It is situated in 
latitude 29° 57', and it is regularly laid out, the streets crossing 
one another at right angles ; but they are narrow, being generally 
not more than 40 feet in breadth. The houses in the principal 
streets are built of brick, but the others mostly of wood. The 
middle of the streets are unpaved, and, in wet weather, are very 
muddy ; but the town is well supplied with good side pavements. 
The city extends nearly a mile along the river, and is about half a 
mile broad. There is a square in the centre, which is covered 
with grass, and contains the cathedral and town -house. There is 
a market-house of considerable extent, and it is well supplied with 
vegetables, but the meat and fish are said to be poor. 

The city lies below the surface of the river, on which there is 
an embankment, called a levee to defend it and the adjacent coun- 
ti'y from being overflowed. This levee, is of great extent, run- 
ning more than 130 miles up the country, and on the top of it 
there is an excellent dry road. 

A plan has lately been agreed upon for supplying the city with 
water from the Mississippi, which will add much to the comfort 
and health of the inhabitants. 

A winter residence in this city is said to be very pleasant ; but 
it is generally sickly in summer, and many of the people leave it 
for two or three months. As it is, however, the great mart for 
receiving the commodities which ai"e shipped from the Mississppi 
river, it will always continue to be a place of great trade, and 
will increase, probably, to a gi'eater extent than any sea-port in 
America. 

Except domestic manufactures, which do not appear to be car- 
ried on to a great extent, there are no material manufactures here, 
and in all piobability the trade of this place will continue for a 
long time to be an object of solicitude to the manufacturing dis- 
tricts ; particularly Pittsburg, and Lexington, in Kentucky ; and, 
on the other hand, from the increase of cotton and sugar, a great 
trade will always be supported between New Orleans and the cities 



390 MISSISSIPPI TERRITORY. 

on the Atlantic. The direct exports of 1810 amounted to 1,897,522 
dollars ; but it is to be observed, that the greatest part of the ex- 
ports are by the way of the eastern states, no part of which is en- 
tered at the custom-house. 

The people are represented as being gay and lively ; their man- 
ners being pretty much assimilated to those of the French. The 
government is similar to that of the other territories of the United 
♦States, and guarantees religious and political freedom. 

MISSISSIPPI TERRITORY 

Is bounded on the west by the Mississippi, on the east by 
Georgia, on the north by Tennessee, and on the south by Orleans 
Territory and Florida. It is situated between north latitude 31° 
and 35°, and west longitude 8° and 14° 30'; being in length, 
from east to west, 390 miles, and in breadth 278. Its area is 
about 88,680 square miles, or 56,755,200 acres. 

The face of the country is somewhat similar to those parts of 
Orleans Territory and Louisiana Territory that are opposite to it. 
Towards the south it is pretty level ; but it becomes more elevat- 
ed to the northward; and in the north-east there are some spurs of 
the Allegany mountains. 

It is remarkably well watered with rivers'and small streams. The 
Mississippi, including its windings, waters it on the west nearly 
600 miles, and receives several rivers, particularly the Yazoo and 
Black rivers ; the former of which is rendered remarkable by the 
speculation in the public lands on its banks, known by the name 
of the Yazoo speculation. The Tennessee river runs through the 
northern part of this territory by a remarkable bend ; and at the 
Muscle shoals, on that river, canals have been projected to the 
Tumbekby, a large navigable stream that flows into the Gulf of 
Mexico, through Mobile bay. The Alabama, which is composed 
of several large streams rising in Georgia, forms a junction with 
this river. The other principal streams are Pearl river, Pasca- 
goula, Conecuh, and Chatahouchy, which last is the boundary, 
for a considerable way, between this territory and Georgia. The 
greater pr.vt of these rivers are navigable, and fall into the Gulf 
of Mexico, through Florida ; which circumstance shows of how 
much importance it is to the safety and prosperity of this portion 
of the United States to have possession of the Floridas. West 
Florida, as far as Perdido river, was ceded to the United States 



MISSISSIPPI TERRITORY. 391 

along with Louisiana, and, judging from recent transactions, we 
may conclude that they will soon be in possession of the whole, 
which will be productive of a lasting benefit, both to the inhabit 
tants of Florida and the United States. 

There is in this territory a great diversity of soil ; but it con- 
tains much excellent land in the lower part, principally on the 
water courses. In the northern part, it extends throughout the 
territory. The principal timber in the lower parts is pine ; in the 
upper parts, oak, hickory, walnut, cherry, and poplar. 

The climate is represented as highly favourable ; the winters 
being mild, and the summers not materially hotter than several 
degrees farther to the northward. The heat is seldom oppressive 
within doors, and the nights are said to be more comfortable than 
in Virginia. There is but little snow or ice ; so that the cattle 
graze in the fields all winter, a circumstance highly favourable to 
the husbandman. The following extracts are from a register kept 
near Fort Stoddart. 

Warmest. Coldest. 



1807. April 2, 


Ther. 


52° 


15, 




82 71' 


May 2, 




66 61 


17, 




90 80 


June 6, 




90 82 


28, 




82 69 


July 10, 




94 78 


29, 




74 65 




Mean heat in July, 86<*. 


Aug. 2, 


Ther, 


88° 


Sept. 5, 




95 80« 


8, 




74 


Mean heal 


t in September, 84" 


1808. Jan. 8, 


Ther. 


55° 


9, 




61 


21, 




60 5f 


Feb. 8, 




56 43 


12, 




79 62 


March 21, 




63 53 


28, 




86 



The days selected are the warmest and coldest in the respective 
months. 



392 IVilSSISSIPn TERRITORY. 

April 2, Trees were in leaf. 

1 2, Peas in pod. 
May 2, Green peas at table. Strawberries ripe. 

16, Mulberries ripe. 
June 19, Roasting ears (of corn) at table. 

Lettuce and cabbage stand well all winter. 

This extensive territory was originally claimed by the state of 
Georgia, and, in 1795, the legislature of that state sold 22,000,000 
of acres of land in it for 500,000 dollars; but the act authorizing 
the sale was objected to by a succeeding legislature. The sale was 
declared null and void, and the records relative to it were pub- 
licly burnt. It was claimed by the United States, and, in 1800, 
erected into a territory. The inhabitants have lately petitioned to 
be admitted into the union as a state ; but tlie measure has not 
yet been decided on by congress. 

The territory is at present divided into 11 counties and 2 towns, 
and contains 40,352 inhabitants, of whom 17,088 are slaves, and 
24*0 free negroes. The Indian population is about 40,000 more ; 
and some of the tribes, it is said, look forward to be admitted into 
the union as citizens of the United States. 

The principal settlements in this territory are along the Missis- 
sippi river. Natches is the capital^ and contains 1511 inhabi- 
tants. Adams county in this district contains 5,030 inhabitants, 
"Wilkinson county 5,068, and Madison county 4,699; but the 
greater part of the settlers are scattered throughout the land, and 
it is said that few of the plantations exhibit any thing like neatness, 
being even without fences to protect the crops. 

The principal produce is Indian corn and cotton. Some wheat, 
rye, and oats are raised. Rice is cultivated in the river swamps, 
and indigo and sugar-cane are cultivated to a considerable extent. 

Hie principal manufactures are household stuffs, principally of 
cotton. 

The trade to the westv.ard is through the medium of the Mis- 
sissippi. To the eastward, the surplus produce, consisting prin- 
cipally of corn, beef, and pork, finds a market in Mobile and 
Pensacola. Vessels drawino- 13 or 14 feet of water can o-o easier 
to Fort Stoddart than to New Orleans ; and it is said there are 
no material obstructions in the Tumbekby river 40 miles above 
Fort Stoddait. 



MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 393 

In the settlements contiguous to the Mississippi, society has 
made considerable progress ; but, towards the Mobile, they are 
so scattered, that they have no fixed character. There are no 
colleges, no permanent schools, no regular places of worship, no 
literary institutions, no towns, no good houses, and but few com- 
fortable ones. There ai*e few mechanics, and scarcely any pro- 
fessional men, except lawyers.* 

I shall conclude this chapter with a short account of the 

MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 

This noble river, which has been emphatically termed the Nile 
of America, though it is in fact much larger than that river, rises 
in a lake, in latitude 48° 16', and being joined by a great variety 
of small streams, it passes the falls of St. Anthony, 29 feet in height, 
in latitude 45°, where it is little more than 100 yards wide. From 
thence it runs a course east of south, and receives one consider- 
able river from the west, and two from the east ; and, in latitude 
42°, it receives the Ouisconsin, by which there is a communica- 
tion with lake Michigan. In latitude 39°, it receives the important 
Illinois river from the east, and a few miles below, the Missouri 
from the west, being the main branch, and by far the longest, 
having been navigated to the westward upwards of 3000 miles. The 
waters above this are clear, but the Missouri is a muddy stream, 
and imparts its hue to the Mississippi. In latitude 37°, it forms a 
junction with the Ohio, which may becalled the greateastern branch, 
as the Missouri is the western. There is now a vast collection of 
waters, and it rolls along with a majestic sweep, by a serpentine 
course, through a very variegated country, but, upon the whole, 
rather level; and after receiving in its progress the Yazoo and 
Black river from the east, and the St. Francis, Arkansas, and 
Red river from the west, besides innumerable small streams, it 
falls into the gulf of Mexico, 118 miles below New Orleans; its 
whole length being upwards of 2500 milea. 

The bi'eadth of the river is various. At its junction with the 
Missouri, it is about half a mile, at the Ohio three-fourths, at 
Natches one mile, at New Orleans a mile and half, at its outlet 
two miles ; but it varies considerably between these points. 

The quantify of water that is discharged by this mighty river is 
immense. From the Missouri to the Ohio, it is about 15 feet 

* Pittsburg Navigator. 
50 



304 MISSISSIPPI RIVER. ' 

deep; froiu the Obio to New Orleans 30 to 60; and fro ni thence 
to the fuU' of Mexico, 30 to 40. The current is from three and 
a hall to four miles an hour, and when high somewhat greater. 
Assuming as a data, that the current is four miles an hour at its 
outlet, the breadth two miles, and the depth 40 feet, a calculation 
may be made of the water discharged. It amounts to the as- 
tonishin^T quantity of 94 millions of gallons per second, or 5640 
millions per minute. 

The banks of the river above the Ohio, are pretty similar to 
those of that river. Below that, the country becomes more level, 
and a considerable part of the way the river runs on a ridge, form- 
ed by the earth carried down by the annual inundation. At some 
places it overflows its banks, during the IVcshets, to the amazing 
extent of 50 miles, principally to the westward ; and part of this 
water never returns, but goes to the ocean by other channels. 
I< rom New Orleans to Natches, these overflowings are prevented 
by a bank called a levee, and in all this distance the banks are well 
cultivated. It is probal>lc th.a this system will be adopted through- 
out the low country, in which case the very rich country on its 
Inmks will support a vast population, and raise an immense quan- 
tity of produce. 

The trade of this river is already very great, but it is small com- 
pared to what it will be. The settlement of a country so rich, and 
.o well supplied with navigable rivers, under a form of government 
which guarantees equal rights to all, must bring forward surplus 
produce to a great extent; and as it must all find an outlet by this 
river, it will unquestionably constitute it the greatest commercial 
river,' and New Orleans one of the greatest depots, in the universe. 
This' view suggests, even at this early period, of what importance 
it is to endeavour, by every means, to clear the river of all obstruc- 
tions, and to render the great city of New Orleans as healthy and 
as comfortable as circumstances will admit.* 

• The obstacle, to the navigation of this river are lessening every year. The steam- 
boat «hich I noticed at Pittsburg, has been started between New Orleans and Natchc.. 
^ud'is found to answet the purpose remarkably well. Little doubt remains, but that 
the line of steam-boats will be cstal)li.hed to Pittsburg, and probably another to St. 
I Olds • in which case these rivers will be all navigable upwards with a degree of facil- 
ity tlL will ensure a return without a tedious passage by the Atlantic -ports. The plan 
noticed for supplying New Orleans witl, water, .will be a most important improvement 
to the city, and, as the country .ettles up, it will be all drained, and it is to be hoped 
become quite heahhy. 



MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 395 

I shall close this account of one of the noblest rivers in the world, 
»y the following pertinent remarks from the Pittsburg Navigator. 

" What a reverse in the situation of a trader, since the banks 
of the Mississippi have become the soil of the United States; 
since the governor of a republican people has been happily placed 
in the chair of, not one, but many tyrants ; since, in fact, he traf- 
fics with those to whom he looks up as friends, instead of thosG 
whose every glance was dire jealousy and suspicion — whose de- 
meanor, bombastic pride and ostentation — whose pursuit and plan 
in trade was one continued system of bribery, fraud, and chican- 
ery, from the first authority in the old, to the last in this their fo- 
reign government !* What a reverse is the situation of you, western 
Americans ! W^hafa conquest gtiined ! — A conquest equal to a se- 
cond revolution — a vast and almost unlimited territory acquired 
withourthe loss of a drop of blood. Happy Columbians ! prosperity 
smiles — must smile — on all governments equally mild and just with 
yours !" 

* The following anecdote, copied from Sclnilfz's Travels, affords some idea of the 
shnmek'ss corruption and villany of the Spanish government. 

" At the lower end of the town of St. Genevieve, is still to be seen tlie remains of a, 
Spanish fort, which, being erected on an eminence, corresponded with that of Kaskas- 
kias by signals. I was infoiTncd of a very singular transaction relative to the building 
of this fort. 

" It seems, after the fort was completed, the commandant had to wait upon the 
governor of the province to present his charges. They were accordingly presented, 
and amounted to 421 dollars. The governor, after examining the account, returned it 
to the commandant, informing him there was some mistake. The commandant retired 
•ind examined it again, but, finding it entirely correct, presented it once more. The 
governor, on looking it over, iniformed him it vvas still incorrect, and advised him to 
consult with some friend, as he had omitted a figure or two. The commandant then 
called upon a friend to look over his accounts with him, who no sooner saw the amount, 
than he hurst into a loud laugh, and taking up a pen added a to the sura already 
stated. The commandant presented his accounts the third time, when his excellency 
replied it was not quite right yet. The conunandant was amazed ! but what was his 
astonisjnuent, wlien he related the affair to his friend, to sec him add another to the 
last sum, making it 42, 100 instead of 421 ! On presenting the account the fourth time it 
was graciously received ; and for the discharge of the w hole a veiy small part was paid 
to the commandant. 



39(> TRAVELS IN 

CHAPTER LXXVIII. 

T^eave Louisville, — Middleton^ — Shelbi/ville, — Franlcforf, — Versailles 

— Lexington. 

OURING my stay at Louisville, the threatened Indian war was 
the general topic of conversation, and the inhabitants here were 
not so sanguine as those at Cincinnati. They thought there would 
certainly be fighting, though they did not apprehend there would 
be any serious battle ; and they had no fear whatever that any part 
of Kentucky would be disturbed. Captain Baen, my fellow-pas- 
senger, assured me, when we were on the river, that there was un- 
questionable evidence of the Indians being stirred up by the Brit- 
ish, and I found this to be the current belief here, corroborated by 
captain Ball, of Virginia, who was an officer in general Wayne's 
arnw. He represented the Indians, in that quarter, as dastardly, 
treacherous, cruel wretches, who, if they came to action, ought to get 
no quarter, as they had not the smallest cause for quarrel. Colonel 
Boyd had embarked with his regiment 14 days before, and no appre- 
hension was entertained as to the result of a rencounter, if one took 
place. Captain Baen was waiting for a brother officer, and intended 
to set out in a few days on horseback, to join the army at Vincennes.* 
The principal assemblages of hostile Indians were on the Wa- 
bash, 100 miles above that post. It was not supposed that any 
material mischief would be done by the Indians, except in some 
straggling settlements on the road, between the Prophet's town 
and Fort Maiden, in Canada, between which places an active in- 
tercoui'se was kept up. 

Havin<T purchased a handsome piare, for which I paid 25 dol- 
lars, I bade adieu to the captain and my French travelling com- 
panion, and set out for Lexington on the 22d of September, at 8 
o'clock, along with captain Ball, and some other gentlemen. 

Some rain had fallen, which rendered the road a little muddy, 
but it was pretty good otherwise, and led through a very rich, 
level country, for two miles, when we crossed Bear Grass creek, 
where there are some mills. In our way we saw a number of small 
ponds, which sufficiently account for the prevalence of the fever 
and ao-uc. Land, we were told, was held as high as 20 to 50 

* This amiable o3icer was unfortunately killed in abattle with the Indians some time 
after. 



KENTUCKY. 59? 

dollars unimproved, and a great deal of it is held on speculation, 
which operates very much against the clearing and draining of the 
country. 

The country rises a little to the eastward. We passed a num- 
ber of very rich farms on our way to Middleton, twelve miles dis- 
tant from Louisville. 

Middleton consists of 40 or 50 dwelling houses, and is on the 
head waters of Bear Grass creek. Land is held at about 10 dol- 
lars per acre. 

Here my fellow-traveller, who was troubled with the ague, was 
seized with a fit, and I was obliged to travel on alone. The coun- 
try beyond this got more hilly, and perfectly healthy, to Shelby- 
ville, 20 miles from Middleton, where I stopped all night. 

Shelbyville is the capital of Shelby county, and contains 424 in- 
habitants. The country is fertile round it, and the town is improv- 
ing. They have no church ; but education is well attended to, and 
the people are civil and discreet. Several manufacturies are estab- 
lished, and thriving, principally of hemp and wool. Cotton and 
wool spinning by machinery are contemplated. The people here, 
and from hence to Louisville, are all clothed in home-made manu- 
factures. Land in the neighbourhood sells for 8 dollars. 

September 23cl. I fell in here with a gentleman from Georgia, 
and we agreed to travel together to Frankfort. We passed Clear 
creek at the end of the town, and took a near road through the 
woods, which, like the other original roads through this country, 
winds along the top of a dry ridge. The morning was fine, and 
our journey very pleasant ; the country rich, and many of the farms 
well cultivated. The foliage on the trees was beautifully tinted, 
and the choiristers of the forest delighted us with their song. We 
passed several creeks, mostly dried up, and reached a tavern 13 
miles from Shelbyville, romantically situated at the foot of a hill, 
with a creek winding along right before the house. Here we stop- 
ped to breakfast. 

After breakfast we travelled about a mile to Benson creek, which 
runs in a very deep valley, with steep limestone banks. We de- 
scended into this valley, and travelled through a very romantic 
country, crossing the creek several times in our progress, and at 1 
o'clock reached Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky, 6 miles from 
^here we stopped to breakfast. 

I immediately waited on colonel Greenup, the late governor, to 



?93 



TRAVELS IN 



u-hom I had a letter of introducton, and he very politely carried 
me to see every thin^' of consequence in the town. I'he stave-house 
is a handsome edifice of stone, and the apartments are colivtaiient 
for transacting the public business. The jxiiitentiary is somewhat 
tipon the plan of the state-prison of Philadelphia, and is under such 
excellent management that the institution supports itself by a judi- 
cious application of the labour of the convicts. They were at this 
time S't in number. \'arious mechanical branches were carried on ; 
but the convicts were mostly employed in sawing marble in the o- 
pen yard. Here, one worthy was pointed out to us whose offence 
was gouging. The law for that offence is strictly put in execution, 
?ind is imprisonment for not less than 2, and not more than 1 years, 
with a fine of not more than 1000 dollars, of which two-thirds goes 
to the sufferer. That ciime, we were infonncd, is not now so com- 
mon as formerly, as a number of the quarrelsome miscreants have 
adopted the practice of stabbing, before noticed. The criminal code 
of this state has been lately arranged on a new plan, and is now con- 
sidered very judicious ; and this, together with the natural progress 
of civilization, will tend to purge the dross from Kentucky, and es- 
tablish her character among the other states for virtue and good 
morals. Criminals of all descriptions are admitted, except those 
Cdnvirted of murder of the first degree, which is punished with 
(death. We saw some \cry handsome specimens of marble, from 
the banks of the Kentucky river. Many of the slabs were varie- 
gated with the impressions of leaves of trees, and one had the ex- 
act resemblance of a bird on it. 

From the penitentiary we passed to the cotton-bagging manufac- 
tory, and thence to the river, where a chain bridge was building; 
but its progress was suspended for want of funds. 

The river here runs in a deep bed, with steep limestone banks, 
and is about 80 or 90 ^^ards wide. It is navigable in freshets about 
200 miles; but the navigation is much obstructed, and very uncer- 
tain. It has its source at the south-cast corner of the state, among 
the mountains. 

1 spent the evening very much to my satisfaction, in company 
with governor Greenup, and by his assistance compiled materials 
for the following short account of this placo. 

Frankfort is situated in a small plain, with high land to the cast, a 
pretty high hill to the north-east, and the Kentucky river bounds it 
on the other sides, running in the form of a half mo.on. It is neat- 



KENTUCKY. S99 

ly laid oat, the streets crossing one another at right angle?, and they 
are mostly all paved. It consists of about 150 houses, the most of 
them handsomely built with brick, and contains 1099 inhabitants. 
The public buildings are the state-house and penitentiary aforesaid, 
and a bank. A theatre and church arc building. 

There is a considerable commerce in the produce of the country 
on the river; and, till of late, a great many English goods were sold; 
but in consequence of the low price of produce, the inhabitants 
bave been obliged to make their own clothing, and a spirit for do- 
mestic manufactures now prevails amongst all classes of the people. 
Two manufactories of cotton-bagging have been recently establish- 
ed, and are doing well ; and two rope-walks, a tobacco factory, and 
several carding machines, are also in operation. A number of branch- 
es of manufaciures could be established here to advantage, the chief 
of which are beer and porter brewing, which must go hand in hand 
with a manufacture of glass bottles ; carding and spinning of cotton, 
and, connected with this, wire for cards. A stocking manufactory 
on a small scale would succeed ; and there are probably some others. 
Mechanics can make from one to two dollars per day, and board- 
ing is very low. 

In the state of society there is considerable room for improvement. 
A great many of the young men are addicted to gaming, a vice that 
generally leads to others of a more serious nature; but indeed the 
waste of precious time, which Dr. Franklin very appropriately terms 
5' the stuff that life is made of," is bad enough in itself. However, 
as information begins to be amply diffused, particularly among the 
fair sex, who may be termed the sweeteners of life, it is to be hoped 
the young men, and-the more advanced in years too, will bend their 
attention to virtuous industi'y, which has its certain reward ; while 
that of gaming is not only precarious, but whatever is gained by it 
is more than lost to the possessor, being far outbalanced by the evils 
attending it. 

With a view of correcting this vice, a number of citizens attempt- 
ed to establish a public library ; but it not succeeding, they have 
subscribed to build a theatre, in order to form an amusement for 
the ladies; presuming, I think, very correctly, that a number 
of the most virtuous of the gentlemen will be found in the ladies' 
company. 

A seminary has been erected for the instruction of yo-.uig ladies, 
and another for young men. 



400 TRAVELS IN 

The country round Frankfort is rough and hill}-, and one can 
hardly visit the place without expressing surprise how the citizens 
made choice of it for the seat of government, when there are so 
many situations, far more eligible and more central, in the state. 

September 24'. My former travelling companion, captain Ball, 
having come forward, we travelled together to Versailles, 1 3 miles 
from Frankfort. The country for six miles is rough and stony, 
but there are some small tracts of good land in it. At the end of 
six miles we came to a very fine spring of pure water, issuing from 
the limestone rock. Beyond this the soil is very fine all the way 
to Versailles, which is situated in the midst of a charming country. 
Versailles is handsomely laid out, and contains 488 inhabitants. 
Several brick buildings were erecting, and the town appeared to 
be in a thriving state. There is a pretty good court-house in the 
town, and Woodford academy being situated in it, affords a good 
opportunity for the education of youth. 

The lands in the neighbourhood arc exceedingly beautiful, and 
well cultivated; the price of land round the town is from 10 to 20 
dollars per aci*e. Provisions of every kind are very chqD. 

The country here is generally healthy, but there has been a 
little sickness this season, owing to the great heat, this having 
been the hottest summer in the remembrance of the oldest inhabi- 
tants. 

I left Versailles at 2 o'clock, and had a most agreeable ride of 13 
miles to Lexington. The country was really beautiful, and the 
improvements, which have been nearly all made within 20 years, 
present a most pleasing picture of the progress of society. There 
are finely cultivated fields, rich gardens, and elegant mansions, 
principally of brick, all the way. Land in the natural state is 
easily cleared, for, notwithstanding the richness of the soil, the 
timber is mostly small and thin ; and there are few situations in 
Mhich the price of wood will not pay for the clearing. 

1 was pretty well prepared, by the previous information, for 
the view of Lexington, but it did exceed my expectations. The 
scitc of the town is agreeably uneven, with sufficient slopes to carry 
off the water. The streets are wide and airy, crossing one another 
at right angles ; and the buildings, being mostly all of brick, the 
whole is as handsome, as fir as it extends, as Philadelphia; and 
the country round is much handsomer than that round the latter 



KENTUCKY. 401 

city. As I passed along the streets 1 obeerved the people all busy, 
having a glow of health, and an animation in their faces, indica- 
tive of a healthy climate, and a plentiful country. I lodged at 
Postlethwaite's tavern. 



CHAPTER LXXIX. 

Lexington. 

1 FOUND myself at first in a singular dilemma here, t had 
resolved, at setting out, to pay particular attention to Lexington, 
and yet it so happened that I had not a letter of introduction to 
a person in the place, except to one gentleman, and he was fronji 
home. I had got very particular letters of introduction to gentle- 
men in Pittsburg and Louisville, who were well acqutiinted in 
Lexington ; and it was expected that I could have been furnished 
with letters from both, but neither of them were at home, and I 
was thus disapointed. 

Luckily, however, there were a number of Georgians in the 
town, and I fell in with an old acquaintance from Savannah. He 
introduced me to Mr. Jordan, the postmaster, and to this gentle- 
man's kind attention I was much indebted, in every respect ; but 
particularly for assisting me in procuring the information that I 
was more immediately in quest of. 

In the morning we went to the market, which was as well sup- 
plied with provisions as that of Philadelphia, and the prices very 
ireasonable. A few of them may be quoted : flour 2 dollars per 
cwt. meal 40 cents; potatoes 25 per bushel, turnips 16, beans 12^ 
per peck, onions 6^, beef 3 per pound, mutton &3 per side, veal 
1 dollar per side, bacon from 6 to 8 cents per pound, venison 25 
per ham, fowls from 12^ to 16 per pair, ducks 25 to 33 per pair, 
geese 33 each, tui'keys from 25 to 50, chee^se 12i per pound, but- 
ter 12^, eggs Q\ per dozen. 

From the market we went through several rope- walks, where 
we found a number of black fellows busily employed ; and from 
thence we went to see a cotton-bagging manufactory belonging to 
a Mr. Brand, from Dundee. Here we found a thriving establish- 
ment. Two men were at work dressing the hemp ; some boys 
were spinning ; and a number of men and boys were busy weaving. 

51 



402 TRAVELS IN 

The number of hands was 23, all under the du'ecllon of an over- 
seer; everything was gohig on like clock-work. Mr. Brand in- 
formed us that they produced 120 yards of bagging per day, at 33-f 
cents per yard, and the price of the hemp was 4 dollars per cwt. 
In the evening we had a party at Mr. Brand's, and I was very 
much pleased with the attention so unexpectedly shown me. We 
went in a body to the theatre. The performers acted very well, 
but there was a deficiency of actresses, and one of the men hud to 
play a female character, which did not suit my taste at all. This 
company are to play here, at X^rankfort, and at Louisville. 

Through the medium of Mr. .Jordan and Mr. Brand, I was in- 
troduced to many others; and soon became as familiar with Lex- 
ington as I was with New York ; but, as I must condense my ob- 
servations, the remaining information will be found in the fol- 
lowing general account. 

Lexington is the seat of justice of Fayette county, and is situ- 
ated in the heart of a most beautiful country, on a branch of Elk- 
horn river. It is one of the earliest settlements in the western 
country, and is coeval with the battle of Lexington, the news of 
which having reached the early settlers, they conferred on it the 
present name. It has since flourished in a wonderful degree, and 
now contains 4327 inhabitants. By the census of 1800, it contain- 
ed 2400, so that it has nearly doubled its population in 10 years; 
and as it is progressing in manufactures and wealth, and the ad- 
joining country rapidly settling up, there is every pi-obability 
that it will increase in the same ratio for a considerable time to 
come. Lexington has a very neat court-house, market-house, 
jail, four churches, and a bank. There is a very excellent semi- 
nary of learning, under the management of special trustees, which 
is supported by about 70,000 acres of land ; and there is a public 
library, a valuable establishment, with a youth's library attached 
to it. Three newspapers are published in the town, and papers 
are received by mail from all quarters of the union. There are 
a number of valuable manufactories; and a steam mill was recent- 
ly put in motion, which is of great advantage to the town and 
neighbourhood. There are four principal taverns, all under good 
management, and there are about 30 retail stores, and two book- 
stores. 

The principal manufactures of Lexington are of hemp, to which 
the labour of the black people is well adapted, and of which the 



KENTUCKY. 4-03 

country 3'ields amazing-crops, at the low price of 4- dollars per 
cwt.; being at the rate of ^18 sterling per ton. There are 13 
extensive rope-walks, five bagging manufactories, and one of duck. 
The manufactures of hemp alone are estimated at 500,000 dollars. 
The other principal manufactories arc eight cotton factories, three 
woollen manufactories, and an oil-cloth factory. The other pro- 
fessions are, masons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, 
cabinet-makers, coopers, turners, machine-makers, smiths, nailors, 
copper and tin-smiths, brass-founders, gim-smitlis, silvcr-braiths, 
watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot and shoe-makers, 
butchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, stocking-makers, dyers, 
taylors, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-makers, brush-makers, 
potters, painters, confectioners, glovers and breeches-makers, 
straw-bonnet-makers, and hatters. As this place is rapidly in- 
creasing, manufactures are so of course ; workmen are mostly al- 
ways in demand, the more so as industrious journeymen very soon 
become masters. 

The following branches could be established, or increased ; 
frame smith-work, connected with the manufactory of stockings, 
upholstery, chaise and chair-making, piano-fortes. And the fol- 
lowing branches are susceptible of augmentation to a great extent: 
cotton, woollen, and hemp. The materials for these are to be 
procured on the spot. Hemp has been noticed ; sheep, both 
common and merino, thrive remarkably well ; and cotton of an ex- 
cellent quality is brought over land from Tennessee at 2^ to 3 cents 
per pound. 

Journeymen mechanics are scarce; they can earn from 1 to 1 
dollar 50 cents per day, and be boarded for 1 dollar 50 cents to 
2 dollars per week. 

Lexington is a general market : the principal articles for export, 
and the prices when I was there, were as follows : wheat 50 cents 
per bushel, rye 4-0, oats 16, barley 30, whiskey 25 ts 33 per gal- 
lon, peach-brandy 33 to 40, cyder 4 dollars per barrel, beer 8 
dollars, salt ] dollar 25 cents per bushel, hemp 3 dollars 50 cents 
to 5 dollars per cwt., tobacco 1 dollar 50 cents to 2 dollars, good 
horses 50 to 100 dollars each, cows 12 to 20 dollars, sheep 1 dol- 
lar 50 cents, negroes (a black trade,) from 14 to 30 years of ao-o, 
350 to 400 dollars, cordage 8 to 10 cents per pound, town lots, 
66 feet in front, and 219 deep, frrom 2000 to 3000 dollars, fire- 
wood 1 dollar per load; houses (containing four good rooms) 100 



404 KENTUCKY. 

to 200 dollars per annum; houses for mechanics 30 to 50 dollars j 
but that class have mostly houses of their own. 

The state of society is much improved in Lexington. Educa- 
tion is well attended to, and there are pretty good schools. Perhaps 
the church is not on a footing with the sentiments of the people, 
which are very liberal on the subject of religion. They are po- 
lite and affable in their manners, and are hospitable in a high de- 
gree. They are high-spirited, independent, and republican in 
their sentiments ; and, as might be expected from a people sprung 
from Virginia, they are warm admirers of Mr. Jefferson, whose 
inaugural speech I saw elegantly printed on white silk, and hung 
up in the hall of Mr. Postlethwaite's tavern. 

The police of the town is supported by the rent of the market 
and public grounds, and by a property tax of from 12 to 20 cents 
per 100 dollars. It is under the management of 13 trustees and a 
president, whose power extends one mile round the centre of the 
town. The streets are nearly all paved, and this important object 
for the comfort of the town will soon be entirely accomplished, as 
two-thirds of the inhabitants can compel the i-emaining third to 
agree to it, 

I have already noticed that the country round Lexington is re- 
markably fertile and well cultivated. This desirable tract extends 
nearly 20 miles round the town, and is capable of maintaining 
nearly half a million of inhabitants ; so that it will probably be- 
come very populous. It is the most beautiful tract of land I ever 
saw. The })rlces may be quoted as follows: land in the immediate- 
neighbourhood of Lexington 200 dollars per acre; from thence to 
the distance of one mile, 180 dollars; to one mile and a half, 100; 
to two miles, 50; to two and a half miles, 30; to three miles, 25; 
to four miles, 20 ; to eight, from 20 dollars to 1 2. Very little 
good land is now to be had under 12 dollars per acre. 

I was introduced to one of the early settlers, who told me lie 
saw the first tree cut down here, and has noticed the progress of 
the place ever since He observed that the climate was very dif- 
terent from that beyond the mountains. Heat and cold did not 
go to extremes, the thermometer in summer seldom being above 
80°, or in winter below 25° ; for six months in the year it ranges 
about 56° : July and August are the warmest months. There has 
been more sultry days this summer than he has ever seen. An 
English gentleman, who has been settled here for some time, told 



TENNESSEE. "40^ 

me emphatically, that the western country had an English climate, 
but being a few degrees farther to the south than England, it was 
upon the whole a few degrees warmer, which v/as so much in. 
favour of the country. 



CHAPTER LXXX. 

Tennessee. 

This being the southern extremity of my journey, I shall, be- 
fore leaving Lexington, devote a chapter to the state of 

TENNESSEE. 

This state is situated between 35" and 36° 30' north latitude, and 
4° 33' and 13° 23' west longitude. It is 420 miles long and 104 
broad; containing an areaof 43,200 squaremiles,or27,648, 000 acres. 

The state of Tennessee is marked by bold features. It is washed 
by the Mississippi on the west, and the fine rivers Tennessee and 
Cumberland pass through it by very serpentine courses. The 
western part is mostly level , the middle, like Kentucky, hilly but 
not mountainous ; the eastern part, known by the name of East 
Tennessee, is wholly among the mountains. These mountains are 
a continuation of the ridges which pass through the northern 
states, and are said to be very beautiful ; the country among them 
forming the most delightful residence of any in the state, in con- 
sequence of which it is rapidly settling. Besides the principal 
rivers already alluded to, there are a great number of lesser rivers 
and small streams, but they are all tributary to the Tennessee and 
Cumberland, except a few of no great length that run into the Mis- 
sissippi. None of the waters in this state run to the eastward, but 
the head waters of the Tennessee interlock with the rivers of Geor- 
gia, which determines the boundary between those states and North 
Carolina to be the highest land in this part of the United States. 

Iron ore is found in abundance in this state, and a considerable 
part of the country is, like Kentucky, bedded on limestone. Co})- 
pcras, alum, nitre, lead, and some silver have been found ; and 
pit-coal is supposed to be plenty through the state, but, owing 
to the quantity of wood, it is not much sought for. Salt- 
petre is an article of commerce, and there are several salt-springs 



406 



TENNESSEF. 



which supply the state with that necessary article. Some other 
mineral springs have been discovered. 

The soil is different in different parts of the country. In East 
Tennessee the land is good along the banks of the river, and in 
the valleys ; the mountains are poor in soil, but they afford good 
pasture for sheep and cattle. In the middle part, the soil is pretty 
similar to that in Kentucky, and the low lands in the western parts 
are composed of a rich black vegetable earth. 

The climate in East Tennessee, among the mountains, is de- 
lightful. The heats of summer are so tempered by the mountain 
air, that in point of climate this is among the most desirable resi- 
dences in all the United States. The middle part has a climate 
very similar to Kentucky, but, being farther to the south, it is 
warmer, and more congenial to the culture of cotton, and other 
articles raised in the southern states. The western part being low, 
the air in summer is hot and moist, and the people are a good deal 
subject to fever and ague, and bilious fever, during the fall. 

Tennessee originally belonged to the state of North Carolina, 
and began to settle in 1765. In 1789 the territory was ceded by 
that state^to the United States ; and in 1796 itwas admitted into the 
union, and a state constitution was adopted. It sends two senators 
and three representatives to congress ; but, in consequence of the 
increase of population, the number of representatives will now be 
considerably increased. 

This state is divided into East and West Tennessee. East Tennes- 
see is only about one- fourth of the state, and is subdivided into 17 
counties, containing 101,367 inhabitants, of whom 9,376 are slaves. 
West Tennessee is subdivided into 21 counties, containing 160,360 
inhabitants, of whom 35,159 are slaves; in all 261,727, being near- 
ly six to the square mile. 

The principal towns are Knoxville, in East Tennessee, and 
Nashville, in West Tennesse. Knoxville is the seat of govern- 
ment, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. Nashville is situated 
on the Cumberland river, and is a place of considerable commerce 
particularly in dry goods, groceries, and cotton. There are a con- 
siderable number of smaller towns, but they arc of no great impor- 
tance. 

The great business of the state is agriculture. Cotton forms a 
sort of staple commodity, particularly in the western part of the 
state. The other products are the same as in Kentucky. 



TENNESSEK. 407 

The whole of tlie people throughout the state are clothed in do- 
mestic manufactures, which have been encouraged by premiums 
from the legislature. I have not heard of any cotton manufacto- 
ries upon a large scale, but the subject will doubtlest: be attended 
to, as the cotton here is of a very superior quality, and being far 
from a market, it would be attended with great benefit to the state 
to fabricate it into different sorts of goods, by machinery. The 
principal exports in West Tennessee are by the Mississippi to 'New 
Orleans, and consist of cotton, tobacco, flour, &c. From the east- 
ern part they carry considerable quantities of cattle to the Atlantic 
ports. 

Tennessee being principally settled from the Carolinas, Virginia, 
and Georgia, with a considerable number of New Englandcrs and 
foreigners, the state of society is much divei'sificd. They are im- 
proving in civilization. Education is pretty generally attended to ; 
and there is little doubt but this will become a very interesting state. 
The people of this state having the example of the confusion which 
took place in Kentucky, about land titles, , before their eyes, adopt- 
ed a plan to prevent all difllcnlties on this subject, and it has been 
of great advantage to the state, as it has held out an inducement to 
many of the emigrants to pass over Kentucky and settle in it ; but, 
as the land laws in Kentucky will soon assume a secure form, this 
advantage will not be of long duration, and the principal increase 
of population hereafter is to be looked for from the Carolinas and 
Georgia. 

The genius of the people in the new states, may be gathered iu 
.part from a perusal of their state constitutions. Having nothing 
to clog their intellect on the subject of government, which is the 
most important of all earthly concerns, it may be fairly presumed 
that the constitution will embrace the sentiments of a considerable 
majority of the people. 

The constitution of this state declares, that all power is in- 
herent in the people — that all men have a right to worship God 
according to the dictates of their consciences, and that no prefer- 
ence shall ever be given by law to any religious establishment — 
•that elections shall be free and equal; — and that the trial by jury 
shall remain inviolate. 

The government is legislative, executive, and judicial. — The le- 
gislature consists of representatives and senators, who are chosen 
tor two years, and must be possessed of 200 acres of land iu the 



403 



TRAVELS IN 



county for which they are chosen. The governor must be possess- 
ed of 500 acres of land, and is also elected for two years. All free 
males of 21 years of age, who pay taxes, have a vote. The judi- 
ciary is vested in such superior and inferior courts as the legislature 
may appoint; the judges are appointed by the legislature, and hold 
their offices during good behaviour. 



CHAPTER LXXXI. 

Leave Lexington — Paris — Bliie Lick — Washingto7i — Limestone, 

XiAVING finished my inquiries at Lexington, I intimated to my 
friends that I must depart. I was urged to stay a few days longer, 
in order to be introduced to some of the leading men of the place; 
but I had a long journey to perform, the season was advanciag, 
and every hour was precious. Finding me deaf to their hospi- 
table entreaties, a few of them told me they would accompany 
me as far as Paris, 22 miles distant. " Up higher yet, my bon- 
net," thinks I to myself; "this is really a contrast to the situation 
I was in the first evening f reached Lexincton." 

We got all ready, and set out on horseback, five in number, 
on the 29th of .September, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The 
weather was clear and beautiful. The thermometer stood at 58*. 
A fine road leads from Lexington, and the lands and houses are 
similar to those on the west side already described. A few miles 
from the town we met governor Scott, in company with another 
gentleman, who, I was told, would be candidate for governor 
at the ensuing election. My friends were acquainted with them 
both, and I was introduced of course ; but our situation did not 
admit of any conversation, except the ordinary compliments usual 
on such occasions. 

At 8 o'clock we reached Paris, where we spent the evening 
in a very social manner. 

Paris stands on elevated ground, on the south fork of Licking 
creek, on which there are several manufactories of cotton, wool, 
and hemp. The houses are built partly of brick, and partly of 
wood, and some few are of freestone. They are about 120 in 
number, and the inhabitants amount to 838. Paris is the capital 
of Bourbon county, and contains the court-house. The other 



KENTUCKY. 409 

public buildings are a presbyterian meeting-house, an academy, 
and jail. 

The country round is perfectly healtfhy, and pretty well improv-'- 
ed. Land is worth 13 dollars per acre, and, if highly improved, it 
IS worth 20 dollars. Unimproved land, 5 or 6 miles from town, is 
worth about 10 dollars. 

September 30th. This morning I rose early, and found there 
had been a little frost during the night, the first I have perceived 
this season. We had an early breakfast, and, parting with my 
friends with sentiments of mutual regard, I sei out on my journey 
at 8 o'clock. The day was now clear, warm, and agreeable, and 
I enjoyed sweet meditation through this pleasant country. I pass- 
ed a creek at the end of the town, and found a number of settle- 
ments between it and Millersburg ; after passing which, the coun- 
try became very rough, and the soil poor, increasing in sterility 
until it is almost a barren. I reached Licking creek about 3 o'clock, 
and stopped for dinner at the house of Mr. Bullingal, a Scots- 
man, from Fifeshire. 

I intended to stop only a few minutes ; but Mr. Ballingal 
was not to be treated in that way by a countryman. He stripped 
my horse, and put it into the stable, and I was obliged to stay 
all night ; by which means I had an opportunity of examining 
the salt springs at the Blue Lick, situated at this place. 

The spring is very copious ; but it is so slightly impregnated 
with salt, that it requii-es 800 gallons to make a bushel ; whereas, 
at the Kanhaway springs, from 90 to 130 gallons make a bushel. 
On this account, the springs here are not now worth working, 
and Mr. Ballingal only kept the kettles at work until he could 
find other employment for his hands. The spring, however, has 
valuable medicinal qualities, and will probably become useful in 
a medical point of view. The water has been analyzed, and was 
found to contain (besides the salt) magnesia, sglphur, and fixed air • 
but I did not learn in what proportions. Jt is, at present, much 
frequented by invalids. 

In descendsng the Ohio, I took notice of a certain Mr. Ashe, 
whose book had come under my observation ; and I found it to 
be a rcprcscrtation so very different from the truth, that I be<j-an 
to conclude it was a fiction ; more especially as I could not trace 
the gentleman, although I had made several inquiries about him. 
But Mr. Ballingal told me he had breakfasted at his house; auUjto 

52 



410 TRAVELS IK 

that circumstance his book is indebted for a second notice, the on- 
ly one I intend to take of it. Such a work, indeed, is not worth a 
refutation, to those who know the country he travelled through ; 
but the greater part of his readers will never have an opportunity 
of examining and judging for themselves. By these it may be 
contended, that the remarks of Mr. Ashe are as likely to be cor- 
rect a« thc>sc which contradict them; but it is a fortunate circum- 
stance for the cause of truth, that such writers as Mr. Ashe some- 
times draw conclusions, which time so wofully belies, that they 
stand convicted of the most glaring inconsistencies — I am almost 
tempted to call them by another name. 

On this state Mr. Ashe observes that " on the road from Paris to 
Lexington he found the country cultivated in the proportion of 1 
to 1000." I found it cultivated in the proportion of 1 to 3 ; but 
it may be said I travelled a few years after Mr. Ashe, and a great 
part of the cultivation had taken place in the interim. Be it so ; 
but how will that comport with the opinion of Mr. Ashe, that Lex- 
ino'ton would decline in population ? And what light does this au- 
thor stand in, when it is found that the state of Kentucky has nearly 
doubled her population in 10 years? in spite of the following sage 
remark : " The state of Kentucky is not likely to increase in popu- 
lation. I may even be nearer the truth in saying it will decrease, 
and rapidly decline." Such an uncandid author does not deserve 
serious notice. I shall therefore simply interpose my opinion — ex- 
actly the opposite of Mr. Ashe : The state of Kentucky will m- 
crease, and rapidly improve. — We shall see ten years hence which 
is most correct. 

October 1st. I could not get away from my friendly host till 
past 10 o'clock. The gTound after leaving the salt lick is almost a 
perfect barren, and bare of trees: a circumstance occasioned, it is 
supposed, by the treading of the buflaloes going to drink the salt 
water. Seven miles from the spring I passed a good tavern, on a 
creek, where there is^ d mill ; and here the land improves, and the 
impi'ovements increase towards Washington, where I called on Mr. 
John Macker, another Scotsman, and he hospitably detained me 
all night. 

Mr. Macker, being in the land business, gave me a great deal of 
information ; but it is principally anticipated by what I have alrea- 
dy stated. He was well acquainted with the land laws, and gave 
me a particular account of the difficulty that had arisen in land ti- 



KENTUCKY. 



411 



ties ; but as all these are in a fair way of being obviated, it is un- 
necessary to submit them here in detail. 

Washington is the capital of Mason county, and is situated 4 miles 
from the Ohio river, in a high and rich country ; but so deplorably 
defective in water, that they have sometimes to carry it on cartsfrom 
the Ohio. It consists principally of one wide street, and the hous- 
es, which are mostly built of brick, are handsome. It contains 815 
inhabitants, who are industrious and enterprising, a great propor- 
tion of them beiiig employed in agriculture. The public buildings 
are, a court-house, jail, and academy. There are several manu- 
factories of hemp. The lands round Washington are good, and 
well cultivated. The whole of Mason county, indeed, is good 
soil ; but it is more hilly than about Lexington, though the soil is 
equally rich and fertile. Land in the neighbourhood of the town, 
under cultivation, sells at from 10 to 15 dollars per acre. Thi'ough 
the country, uncleared lands average about 6 dollars. 

The town lots sell for about 100 dollars each, and the out-lots at 
40 dollars per acre. 

October 2d. The morning being very pleasant, I started at 6 
o'clock, and journeyed on to Limestone, 4 miles distant. The 
soil is very good all the way, and the country being elevated, af- 
fords many fine views. It has been noticed, that the Ohio river 
runs in a deep valley. On approaching it, I had a delightful view 
of this beautiful stream, which I never could behold without 
pleasing sensations. From the brow of the hill I descended about 
300 feet, when 1 reached Limestone. 

I stopped here some little time, during which I saw a gentleman 
from New York bound to New Orleans, by whom I sent a letter 
to my friend Mr. Kennedy ; and, meeting with a countryman 
from Kentucky bound to Chillicothe, we agreed to travel together. 
But before we proceed on our journey, I shall take a review of the 
large and very important state of Kentucky. 



CHAPTER LXXXn. 

Kentucky. 

Is situated between 36° 30' and 39° north latitude, and 5° and 
12° west longitude. Its greatest length is 328 miles^ and its 



4 12 KINTUCKY. 

greatest breadth 183. Its area is 40,110 square miles, or 
$'5,670,400 acres. 

The face of tlie country is generally uneven, some of it rough 
and hilly ; and towards the east there are considerable spurs of the 
Allegany Mountains, which divide the state from Virginia. The 
Ohio river washes the state to the north and north-west, 874 miles ; 
and the Mississippi on the west 57 ; the Cumberland and Tennessee 
rivers pass partly through it. Big Sandy river forms the boundary 
line a considerable way on the east ; and Licking river, Kentucky 
river, Rolling river, and Green river are all very considerable 
streams. There is a vast variety of small streams, and the state 
has the appearance of being well watered ; but in some places it 
is not. The stratum under the soil is limestone, throughout the 
■whole state ; it has a great depth, and seems to be checquered with 
innumerable fissures, which let the water pass. On this account, 
there are some places where water is not to be found in summer, 
and the greater part of the rivers have worn down their beds from 
300 to 300 feet below the surface of the earth. From the circum- 
stance of the rivers being so confined between high banks, 
they roll down their waters to a great depth in freshets ; it is no 
uncommon thing for the Kentucky river to rise from 40 to 50 feet* 

The state is said to be rather defective in iron, the most useful 
of all the metals : but there are, notwithstanding, numerous iron 
forges. Marble is found in the state, but is not plenty : coal is 
found in some places ; and a few specimens of lead, copperas, and 
alum have been found ; limestone is a most plentiful commodity. 
There are various mineral springs, but the most useful are the salt 
springs ; thpugh they are now of less importance, since the dis- 
covery of the valuable salt-springs upon the Kanhaway. 

The soil in this state has all the gradations from the very best 
to the very worst, but there is, upon the whole, a great body of 
good soil in the state. That part of it about Lexington has been 
already noticed ; and the notice of the climate thei-e will also con- 
vey an idea of it for the whole central part of the state. Towards 
the south and west it becomes more warm, to the north and east 
more cold ; the climate is, upon the whole, very agreeable. 

Virginia once extended to the Ohio and Mississippi, and the 
territory of Kentucky then formed a part of that state. It was, 
however, unknown until 1 7S4, when it was first explored by James 
M'Bridc. In 1769, colonel Boone made further discoveries, and 



ICENTUCkY. 413 

in 1773 the first perinanent settlement was made by liim and some 
others. In 1775 the Indian claim was purchased by treaty; in 
1790 Kentucky was, with consent of Virginia, formed into a sepa- 
rate state, and adopted a state constitution, which was revised and 
amended in 1799. The state was admitted into the union in 1792, 
and sends two senators and six representatives to congress ; the 
latter will now be nearly doubled, in consequence of the increase 
of population. 

The state is divided into 54 counties, and contains, by last 
census, 4:06,511 inhabitants, of whom 80,561 are slaves, and 
1713 are free persons of colour. In 1800, the population 
was 220,955, of whom 40,343 were slaves. The inhabitants 
have thus nearly doubled in 10 years, and now amount to about 
11 per square mile. As the emigrations are still going on, and 
likely to continue, particularly from the soutliern states, the 
inhabitants will yet greatly increase, though probably not so 
rapidly as heretofore. The insecurity of the land-titles, and the 
slave-trade, are so many barriers in the way with the people from 
the northern states, from whence there is the greatest degree of 
emigration ; and there being so much fine land to the westward, 
a number of the poorer people will go there, where they can get 
land cheap. However, it is to be presumed that this latter cir- 
cumstance will have a tendency to improve the morals of the state, 
as it will purge it of many of the pioneers. 

The improvements in this state bear testimony to the industry 
of the inhabitants, and to the value of the institutions under which 
Uiey thrive. Besides those towns that have been already noticed, 
there are seven containing 400 inhabitants and upwards; viz. 
Beardstown, 821; Winchester, 538; Russelville, 532; George- 
town, 529; Versailles, 488; Danville, 432; Newport, 413: there 
are 10 containing from 200 to 400; and 13 containing from 100 
to 200. From a slight review of the state, I would be inchned 
to value the accumulated property at 150 millions of dollars, and, 
if that estimate be nearly correct, it shows that this people have 
not been idle during the last 30 years. This is exclusive of the 
negroes. Some calculators would value them at 25 millions, but 
I do not like to put a value on human flesh ; and, indeed, it i» 
my opinion, that society, as Teague says, ^^ gains a loss hx) them^^ 
in which case, they are of no value at all. 

Agriculture lias made rapid progress in the state. The princi- 



4-14 KENTUCKY. 

pal products have been noticed, so also have the manufactures 
and commerce ; it now only remains to state the outlines of th® 
constitution, and to say a few words on the state of society. 

The government consists of three parts ; legislative, executive, 
and judiciary. The legislature consists of a house of representa- 
tives, the members of which are chosen annually ; and a senate, 
of which the members are elected for four years, one-fourth being 
chosen every year. Every free male above 21 years of age has a 
vote for the representatives, and also for the governor, who is e- 
lected for four j^ears, and is ineligible to fill that office for seven 
years thereafter. The judiciary is vested in a supreme court, and 
such inferior courts as may be appointed by law, and the judges 
hold their offices during good behaviour. The constitution de- 
clares, among others, the following fundamental principles; all 
power is inherent in the people; all men have a right to worship 
God according to the dictates of their own consciences ; all elec- 
tions shall be free and equal ; trial by jury shall be held sacred ; 
printing presses shall be free. 

Society acting under these principles must improve, but there 
has been certain checks upon the civilization of Kentucky, which 
have no doubt retarded its progress ; and a number of the blem- 
ishes have been laid hold of by prejudiced foreigners, to misrepre- 
sent the people, forgetting that the blemishes they dwell on, 
are the exceptions, not the rule. I also saw some of these ex- 
ceptions, and I heard of many. In the tavern where we lodged 
at Louisville, a room was appropriated to a gaming table, which 
was kept going night and day, without intermission ; and the gen- 
try who occupied it spoke as if they had been obliged to depose 
every word upon oath. I was induced to look into it, on the 
suo-o-estion of my travelling companion, but 1 could not stand the 
scene a minute, for it became immediately associated in my mind 
with the horrible idea I had formed of hell, when I was at school. 
The oaths and imprecations of the company reminded me of the 
words attributed to the damned in the catechism — " they would 
roar, curse, and blaspheme;" and the fumes of tobacco, with 
which they were enveloped, wanted only a sprinkling of brim- 
stone to bear a very lively resemblance to " the smoke of their 
torment ascending up for ever and ever." At Frankfort I saw a 
vagabond in the penitentiary, who had picked out his neighbour's 
eyes ; and a man who sailed down the river with us, told me he 



KENTUCKY. 



415 



saw a fight in which the combatants grappled one another with 
their teeth : one lost a lip, and the other his nose. These are 
all sad doings, to be sure ; but let it be remembered that they are 
outdone every day by transactions in the capital of a nation, who 
think themselves the most polished on earth, and some of these 
even supported and encouraged by the " Corinthian capitals of 
pohshed society." 

In Kentucky, and indeed in the western country generally, 
there a vast majority of civil, disci*eet, well-disposed people, who 
will hold the lawless and disobedient in check, and in time cor- 
rect the morals of the whole. Slavery is no doubt hurtful to so- 
ciety, but it is probably more ameliorated in this state than in 
any other part of the world. Indeed so much is this the case, 
that the blacks are generally as well fed and nearly as well clothed 
as the white people ; and it is questionable whether they work so 
hard. A gentleman of very excellent information told me that he 
did not think the produce of their labour was equal to their main- 
tenance. To me it appeared that they were better fed, better 
lodged, and better clothed, than many of the peasantry in Britain. 
Still, however, slavery, under any amelioration, is[a bitter draught, 
and though thousands in all ages have been made to drink of it, 
it is no less bitter on that account. *' 'Tis thou, thrice sweet 
and gracious Liberty, whom all in public or private worship, 
whose taste is grateful, and ever will be so, till Nature herself 
shall change — no tint of words can spot thy snowy mantle, or che- 

mic power turn thy sceptre into iron with thee to smile upon 

him as he eats his crust, the swain is happier than his monarch, 

from whose court thou art exiled. Gracious Heaven ! give me 

but health, thou great Bestower of it, and give me but this fair 
goddess as my companion — and shower down thy mitres, if it 
seems good unto thy divine providence, upon those heads which 
are aching for them." Sterne. 

The insecurity of land titles have also been much against the 
state, not only by preventing emigrants of property from goino- 
to it, but also by encouraging litigation, a most baneful circum- 
stance in any country; but it is to be remarked that the legisla- 
ture have lately taken measures to place this business on a solid 
and respectable form. By a late act all claims to land are order- 
ed to be produced and put upon record in the respective counties; 
and none will be admitted that are not produced within five vears 



416 



TRAVELS IN' 



after passing tlic act. Where it is found that there are two or 
more claims to the same lands, the matter will be referred to com- 
misioners, to be appointed by the legislature. In the mean time 
all transfers of property are recorded in the county books, which 
yvill continue to be the Case hereafter, and prevent all confusion. 

Being sprung from the state of Virginia, the manners of that 
people have given the tone to those of this state, which appear* 
in a spirit of high independence, quick temper, and frank gene- 
rosity. The only serious evil that I had to complain of in my jour- 
ney through the country arose from the proneness of many of the 
natives to swearing. This vice is too common, and though *tis 
true that " it will neither break a man's log, ncr pick his pocket," 
yet it may stun liis ears most unmercifully. This was literally 
the case with me; I found the country as bad, in that respect, as 
Ireland itself. Indeed it appears to me that there is a considera- 
ble similitude between the Irish people and the Virginians, in 
more respects than this : frank, affable, polite, and hospitable in 
a high degree, they are quick in their temper, sudden in their re- 
icntiueut, and warm in all their affections. 



CHAPTER LXXXIII. 

Cross the Ohio, — JVest Union, — Bainbridge, — Chillicothr, 

By the time I was ready to leave Limestone, it was 12 o'clock' 
and it was now warm and delightful. On reaching the river side, 
1 perceived that the water had risen about three feet since I jmss- 
rd this place before ; and from the motion of a skiff in the middle 
of [he stream, I judged that the current was novr about two miles 
;.n liour. ^\'e crossed by a flat. The river was beautiful, and 
was enlivened by a great number of boats and skiffs. 

llavinrr reached the Ohio side, we perceived that the state road 
rose abruptly up a steep hill, and were informed that another road 
to the left wound round the hill, through a pleasant valley. We 
took it. The scenery here was bold and rich, the hills on each 
side being about 'iOO feet high, covered by a rich vegetable mould, 
and clad with a profusion of timber, consisting chiefly of oak, 
walnut, chesnut, sugar maple, cherry, honey locust, &c. 

Two miles from the river we passed a countryman with a load 



OHIO. 417 

of cyder, of which we partook, and found the quality excellent. 
He told us he was from the state of New York, and liked this 
country remarkably well, chiefly on account of the mild winters. 

I found my travelling companion was an economist. He had 
a wallet over liis saddle, in which he carried provender for man 
and horse; but he told me his bottle was dry, and wished to 
meet with a distillery, where he might get it replenished at a 
cheap rate. We passed a peach orchard, and he stopped to in- 
quire, but there was no distillery, there. The people informed us, 
however, that we would find one a mile further on. We pursued 
our course through a beautiful romantic valley, and, reaching the 
distillery, we halted, and went into the house. My friend drew 
the bottle from his wallet, and told the landlady to put a quart of 
peach brandy in it. While she was gone, he observed that this 
was much better than to drink it in the house, as we could take 
a little when we pleased, and paid only half price for it. There 
being a little over after filling the bottle, we drank it dilated with 
water, and found the quality excellent. The landlady informed 
us, her family were from Pennsylvania, and they liked this coun- 
try remarkably well. Their peach-orchard had been planted only 
a few years before, and was in a flourishing state. Peach-trees 
planted from the stone come to maturity in three years. Having 
paid the landlady a quarter of a dollar for the brandy, we moved 
on through a fine fertile country, and, passing near Eagle creek, 
a beautiful stream, we came to a fine spring, where my friend 
proposed we should halt and take some refreshment. I had no 
interest in any of the provisions, except the peach-brandy, of 
which I had paid the half; but I was inclined to be sociable, and 
passively agreed. My friend alighted, stripped his horse, and 
gave it water at the spring. I followed his exam})le. He then 
emptied the one end of the wallet of its contents, being oats, upon 
the grass, to the horses; and sitting down on the grass himself, 
he drew forth from the other end a piece of bacon, some bread, 
cheese, and biscuit, and inviting me to partake, I sat down beside 
him, and made a very pleasant repast. The face of nature was 
smiling around us ; the lofty trees spread their branches over our 
heads; the pure water issued from the fountain, and gurgled by 
our side ; and the feathered choristers deliglited our ears with 



418 TRAVELS IN 

their song, alid our eyes with their beautiful plumage. I was 
charmed with this nexv country* 

* So'jii after my return to New York, I was informing a Scottish friend there of 
some tif my adventures in the western country. His attention was aiTested by the 
name of Eagle-creek; which, he told me, was the place he intended to go on first land- 
ing in the country. lie then put into my hands a letter from a Scotsman, settled in 
the Avestcrn country, to a number of his countrymen, which contains so many sensil)l« 
remarks, tliat I am tempted to insert it here, verbatim et literatim : — 

Lexington, November 4, 1805. 
Dear Friends and Couktrytiien, 

I received yours of the 6 th of July ; and what follows will, I hope, be a satisfac>- 
tory answer to all yom- queries. The general price of land here, at its first settlement, 
is from two to three dollars. Land sold by congress is two dollars, to be paid in five 
years. The manner of clearing is to cut down all the timber below a foot thick, and 
to notch the heavy timber all round : thus the growth is stopped, and tlie land being 
every year laboured, the roots gradually die, and are torn out; so that, in a few years, 
the whole field is cleared. Unless what is used in fencing, and building, and fuel, and 
such purpose, all the wood is burnt upon the ground. In the most of places, wood 
is no more tliouglit of than heath and rushes are with you. Two men, who are ordi- 
narily expert at hewing wood, can easily, in two months, clear as much land as will 
jjrosluce i'ood sufficient for the support of a family of six or eight for a whole year. It 
is usual for those who bring families to settle, to rent a house and a piece of clear land 
for a year or so, till they have time to look about them, make a convenient purchase, 
and get a house of their own raised. The first houses which are built upon a plantation 
are usually raised in little more tlian a week or two. They are, indeed, not very ele- 
gant, but tliey do very well for a year or so, till the family has time to build a better. — 
'I'he people are every where exceedingly kind and obliging to new comers, and render 
them all the comfort and assistance in their power ; they have all once known, in their 
own case, what it is to be strangers. Tliere are at no times any thing like a market 
for produce, such as that in the old country, but there is always some little market, 
sometimes better, and sometimes worse. The situation of society, however, is such, 
that very little cash is needed. Every family who has the least industry may, after the 
second or third year, easily raise within itself almost every thing that is necessary. — 
Salt and Iron, and the taxes of government, which are by no means heavy, are almost 
the only things for which men need to give money. Men's persons and properties are 
liere as safe as in any part of the world ; while liberty, civil and religious, is fully en- 
joyed; law and justice are strictly and impartially executed. Snakes, and such Uke, are 
here no more dangerous than in Carnwath muir. In all my wanderings, I have not 
seen above half a dozen snakes, nor met with many more who have been bit by them. — 
"When any are bit by them, they have always a simple and efficacious cure at hand. — 
Indians, where they are to be seen, are equally harmless. Unless it is along some of the 
large rivers, where tlie people are, at certain seasons, liable to the fever and ague, the 
country is every where healthy ; the people in general live as long, and are subject to 
as few diseases as they are in Scotland. The weather, in the summer, is considerably 
h.ottor than it is at home ; but neither I, nor my partner, have found it the least dis- 
agreeable. We have only Morn our clothes a little lighter, and have kept in the house, 
or the shade, a few hours while it was hottest. To be out in the eveiungs and mornings 



OHIO. 



419 



Having finished our repast, we resumed our journey, and tra- 
velled through a rich soil to West Union, 17 miles from the 

!s most delightful. A brewer or a smith along with you will be a valuable acquisition. 
£ach of these branches can be carried on with considerable profit. I could fill sheets 
in praise of the country, but there is nothing like f.ict. I am acquainted with liimdreds 
who came here within these twenty' years, witli notliing more than a sound constitution, 
and an industrious disposition, who have raised large families, and arc now living in 
ease and affluence. I would recommend unto you to come and settle upon Eagle 
CREEK, Adams county, State of Ohio, about 100 miles nearer you than Lexington. 
In tliat quarter there is plenty of good vacant land. The length of the journey there 
is from Philadelphia or Baltimore to Pittsburg 500 miles ; then about as much by 
water down the river Ohio. In preparing for such a long journey, dispose of every 
thing you have, except your body and bed-clothes. The latter end of July, or the 
beginning of August, is the best time to set sail. If the war continues, take an 
American bottom. It makes very little matter whether you sail for Baltimore or Phi- 
ladelphia. If you cannot find a convenient passage for one of these, Newcastle, or 
Wilmington, or some other place upon the Delaware river, is the next best shift. In 
packing up your clothes, it will be much to your advantage to have tliem put into as 
light trunks, or chests, as possible, and to pack them very hard. Make your agreement 
with the captain, that you famish your own provisions, water excepted ; and see that a 
sufficleat stock of water is laid in, and that it be put into well -seasoned vessels. When 
you h;>ve gof about half way, it is likely that the seamen, with consent of the captain, 
may set apart a few hours to make themselves men-y, by working some antic tricks upon 
you. If they take this liberty, by no means resent, — take a laugh also ; they hurt no- 
body. Being arrived in Pliiladelphia, let it be your first thing to inquire for Scots- 
men: from tiiem yo<i will receive a great deal of useful information. If you land at 
Baltimore, ask for the Rev. lioiiert Anon. Our church at Philadelphia is at present 
vacant; but there is a Mr. Miller, a mason, a Scotsman, wlio will be exceeding happy 
to see you. I cannot tell you where he livesj but there is not a shopkeeper but has a 
printed list of all the principal inhabitants. There are waggons continually passing 
from these parts to Pittsburgh ; mike the best bargain you can witli one or more of 
these waggons to carry your women and children, and the men of you may travel o;i 
foot Setoff Incojnnany with one of these carriers' waggons. You will usually tra- 
vel twenty miles a-day. When you pass market-towns, purchase a little provisions for 
yourselves and horses. When you have advanced about 60 or 100 miles, the road will 
grow rougher, which will likely render it necessary to purchase- one or two more horses. 
By this time you will have fallen in with other families in the same situation with your- 
selves. You will find the people every where very freely disposed to ask every thing, 
and tell you every thing. The sooner you get into their manner, it will be the more 
advantage to you ; but be always upon your guard against knaves. You will find a 
great many difficulties and Inconveniencles ; but with a good spirit, and an Indulgent 
Heaven, every thing becomes easy. Your expences will depend a great deal upon lit- 
tle incidents, which human eye cannot foresee ; but if, after you have discharged all 
your accounts about Greenock, you have the one-half remaining, I tliink you will have 
a sufficiency ; and, upon tlie word of an honest man, I positively give it as ray opinion, 
that, though you were to lay out every farthing of your money, if it brought you ia 
health to your destination, you will be considerable gainers. I don't think it will suit 



420 TRAVELS In 

Ohio river, where we stopped all night, and had excellent ac- 
commodations. 

The scite of West Union was appropriated by the legislature 
of the state of Ohio, for the seat of justice for Adams county, 
and 110 acres of ground were purchased, at 8 dollars per acre. 
It was divided into streets, and lots of one third of an acre, and 
out lots of 2 acres ; with a reserve of 4 lots for the use of the 
public buildings, and one on a spring of fine water for an academy. 
The lots were resold at from 6 to 78 dollars each ; the out~lots 
for about 40 dollars each. The whole realized 3307 dollars, 
which, after defraying expenses, went into the county treasury. 
The town was laid out in 1804, and now consists of 32 dwelling- 
houses, and contains 224 inhabitants. The public buildings are a 
court-house, meeting house, jail, and school. There are 3 taverns 
and 3 stores. The town is principally composed of mechanics 
and their families, who are all doing well. 

Land in the neighbourhood is generally good, and is well water- 
ed, abounding in springs. This is on the Virginia military tract, 
which continues all the way to Cliillicothe ; and in which land, in 
the unimproved state, sells for about 2 dollars per acre. 

The country is all perfectly healthy, no instance having occur- 
red of bilious fever, or fever and ague. Four great state roads cen- 
tre at this place, which are a great accommodation to the inhabi- 
tants. We were informed, that 5 acres of land in the neighbour- 
hood produced 21 waggon loads (jf grain, and that provisions were 
plenty and reasonable ; beel^ of an excellent quality, being at 2 
dollars 50 cents per cwt. Boarding in taverns is 2 dollars per week. 
The country abounds in springs of good water, iron ore, and 
free-stone. Sheep have increased, and there is a good supply of 
wool, of which the inhabitants make a variety of domestic manu- 
factures. They also manufacture flax and cotton. 

October 3d. W^e set out on our journey at 6 o'clock ; but, mis- 
men in your situation to lay out any of your money in speculation, upon trading articles; 
but you may consult with the merchants in Greenock. You must likewise observe to 
hare the money you bring into America changed into dollars or gold coin. Take care 
and secure your liquor well, else the sailors will use it as a common stock. If any of 
you are skilled in music, a fiddle, or some such instrument, to raise the spirits, will be 
a valuable piece of furniture. Keep as much above deck as possible. I commend you 
all to the care of the God of Abraham, who went out not knowing whether ; and re- 
main, dear brethi'en, 

ROBERT HAMILTON BISHOP 



OHIO. 421 

taking our road, we travelled several miles out of our way, when 
we were put right by a countryman, who was taking his morning 
walk with a rifle in his hand. We found the country very rich ; 
the trees principally oak, walnut, poplar, and sugar-maple. 

Having regained the proper road, which we found a very good 
one, we travelled through a very beautiful country, to a branch of 
Brush creek, where the road forks ; that to the right hand winding 
up a pretty steep and high hill ; we took the left, and arrived to 
breakfast at the house of a family of the name of Allen, from Ar- 
magh, Ireland. From thence we travelled through a good soil, 
six miles, the next eight being rather light and sandy, to the 
Sinking springs, so called from a large spring of pure water which 
rises and disappears several times, and finally issues from the brow 
of a hill. Here Mr. Heistant, a German, owns n fine farm, and 
keeps a tavern, and my fellow-traveller purchased a quantity of oats 
for the horses, on which, like the peach-brandy, he made a saving 
of 50 per cent. 

Two miles from Heistant's we had dinner in the same style we 
had yesterday. I was quite pleased with the novelty of the thing, 
and my taste and that of my companion were well suited to each 
other. I could eat no fat pork, and he liked the fat best ; so he 
ate all the fat and I got all the lean ; and having drank out of the 
pure fountain of water, at which we halted, we resumed our jour- 
ney. 

We had not travelled far when we were joined by a new settler 
of the name of Smith, from Virginia, who told us he was in 
quest of some stray cows. He was a young man, newly married, 
and had purchased a farm of 100 acres, for two dollars per acre, 
on an unlitnited credit, but he had to pay interest after the second 
year. Being without capital, he hires himself out part of his time, 
and clears a little of his own property as he can get it overtaken. 
In this way, I have no doubt but he will be very comfortably situ- 
ated on his farm of 100 acres, in the course of a few years. 

After parting with Mr. Smith, we passed over a pretty high hill, 
from whence we had a rich view of great extent, but it was chec- 
quered by the trees, which detracted from the distinctness of vision, 
while it exhibited a greater variety. Having descended the hill, 
we passed through a fertile bottom, and reached Bainbridgc, 38 
miles from West Union, at dark, where we stopped all night. 

Bainbridge is quite a new town, consisting of 12 or 14 houses 



422 TRAVKLS IN 

only. The inhabitants are mostly from Pennsylvania, Kentucky, 
New En:fhmd, and Ireland. Bottom land round this sells for 
nine dollars per acre ; the high lands are from two to four dollars. 

October 4th, we set out at half past five o'clock, and having 
travelled a mile, came up with a Mr. Shelby, from Pickaway Plains; 
and as he was travelling the same road with us, we kept company, 
and I availed myself of the opportunity to procure some little in- 
formation regarding that district. 

He told me there was a good road on the east side of the Scioto, 
through the plains to Franklinton, round which there was a 
fine country, settling up rapidly. The plains are large meadows, 
without timber, having a rich soil, and are easy of cultivation. 
They have had some little bilious fever and fever and ague this 
summer, but the country was generally healthy. A road leads 
from Franklinton to Newark, through a level country, covered 
with beech wood, and is often muddy. The land is good all the 
way froui the plains to Lake Erie, and on the banks of the lake, 
about Sandusky bay, is a fine fertile country. 

We travelled through a tract of very rich bottom land, along 
the banks of Paint creek, seven miles, and a mile beyond this we 
came to a tavern on a rising ground, where we stopped to break- 
fast. 

Lands in the neighbourhood sell at six dollars per acre, and are 
settling very fast ; the country, however, is a little subject to fever 
and ague ; but as the settlements progress, it will be drained, and 
become healthy. In passing along we saw some new stone buildings, 
and having crossed the river Paint we ascended a pretty high hill, 
on the summit of which is a most elegant stone building, belonging 
to Col. M'Arthur. Having passed this we came in view of Chil- 
licothe, 18 miles from Bainbridge, at which we arrived about inid- 
day, and I took up my lodgings at Buchanan's excellent tavern : 
my friend pursued his journey towards Zanesville. 

A short time after 1 arrived the dinner bell rang, and I repaired 
to the dinner table, where I found 12 or 14< very respectable gen- 
tlemen seated, and there was a plentiful store of provisions. After 
dinner I took a walk through the town, and ascended a hill to the 
west, about 300 feet high, where I had a fine view of the improve- 
ments, of the river, and of the surrounding country. In the 
evening I made the necessary inquiries for facilitating the business 
of the ensuing day. 



OHIO. 



4^iS 



CHAPTER LXXXIV. 

Chillicoihei-^iJJiillicothe district,^ — Virginia military lands. 

October 5th. I had by this time got so much into the habit 
of" pursuing my researches, that it became a source of real enjo}'- 
ment, and I found the people so civil and discreet, and so well dis- 
posed to give information, that I felt no difficulty in applyin<T to 
them, whether I had a letter of introduction or not. I had none 
to Chillicothe, and I did not feel the want of it. 

After an early breakfast I waited upon Mr. Spencci', at the 
United States land office, where I spent the greater part of the 
day; and to that gentleman's politeness and attention I was princi- 
pally indebted for the information arranged under the respective 
heads in this chapter. 

Chillicothe is situated on an extensive level plain, on tlie west 
bank of the Scioto river, which, by making a bend, bounds the 
town on the north, and the out-lots on the east. It is laid out on 
a pretty large scale, and a great number of out-lots are attached 
to it. The plan is reguhir, the streets crossing one another at 
right angles, and every square is divided into four parts by lanes 
crossing one another also at right angles, and at equal distances be- 
tween the streets. This must be a great advantage, as it gives the 
possessor of every lot a back entry. The streets are 66 feet wide, 
the alleys 16^; the lots contain four acres each. 

Chillicothe was one of the first settled towns in the state of Ohio, 
and was for a considerable time the seat of government; it now^ 
consists of about 250 houses, and contains ] 360 inhabitants, of 
whom 126 are free people of colour. 

The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, three 
churches, and a market-house. There are two rope walks, one 
cotton factory, one wool factory, one nail factory, one pottery 
several distilleries, and four tan yards , and these are all thrivini'- 
establishments. There are good mechanics in all the other branch- 
es calculated for the country. There are six taverns and 19 stores; 
and this is a very general market for the surplus produce of the 
countiy, consisting mostly of flour, of an excellent quality, pork, &c. 

Mechanics, manuflicturers, and laboui'ers ai'e all well paid, hav- 
ing from 75 cents to one dollar 50 cents per day, and such is the 



424 



TRAVELS IN 



low price of provisions, that the expense of living is little more 
than a third of what it is in the eastern states. A few of the 
prices may be mentioned; flour 4- dollars per barrel, pork 2 dol- 
lars 50 cents per cwt., fowls 6-1 cents each ; beef, mutton, and veal, 
3 to 3^ cents per lb. The principal branches of manufacture 
that are most susceptible of improvement are hemp, cotton, and 
wool ; and glass, connected with beer and porter brewing could be 
established to advantage. 

A great proportion of the inhabitants are from Virginia and 
Maryland, and a number from Pennsylvannia ; there are but 
few New Englanders or foreigners. They are reputed to be sober 
and industrious, and are generally well informed. Education is 
pretty well attended to, and I observed that they were by no 
means indifferent politicians. It was on the eve of an election ; 
there are three newspapers in the place, and they were all hard 
at work in support of their respective friends or favourites, as can- 
didates for the assembly. I like to see men take an active interest 
in the public concerns of the country. The phrase " he is a 
peaceable man, and never meddles with politics," is no great 
compliment to the inhabitant of a free country. Public affairs 
must be managed by somebody, and to say that people are in- 
different as to who that may be, is, in other words, to say they 
have no patriotism, nor care about the public welfare. The du- 
ties of an active politician and a peaceable citizen are surely com- 
patible. Let him support the candidate of his choice by all the 
activity in his power; but let this be done with integrity and with 
justice to his opponent; let him adhere strictly to the truth, and 
avoid calumny : and after the election, when the voice of the 
majority has expressed who the rulers shall be, let these have the 
undivided support of the community, till next election. 

Chillicothe District is bounded by Canton district on the north; 
by Zanesville district, and the Ohio company's purchase on the 
cast ; by the Ohio river south ; and by the Virginia military 
lands on the \^est; which are divided from Chillicothe district by 
the Scioto river. The length from north to south is 145 miles, 
and the breadth from east to west 42 ; it contains about 5000 
square miles, or about 3,200,000 acres. The northern part, be- 
ing nearly one-third of this district, is part of the United States 
military lands, and is generally a good soil. Part of it is level 
and marshy ; but it is free from swamps, and, being nearly all ap- 



OHIO. 425 

propriated to agriculture, will soon be drained and healthy. It 
abounds with springs of excellent water, and numerous rivulets. 
To the south of this runs a strip? of land about three miles broad, 
and 42 miles long, which was appropriated to the relief of such 
as had to abandon their settlements in the time of the war, and 
take refuge in other places, and is thence called refugee land. It 
is also good land, but there is a large swamp in the middle 
of it, between Walnut creek, a branch of the Scioto, and 
Licking creek, a branch of the Muskingum. From thence to 
Chillicothe is an undulating country, abounding in hill and dale, 
and so continues to the Ohio, the hills increasing in size as the 
country approaches that river. The soil is in general good 
throughout the whole tract, the best of it being along the Ohio 
and Scioto rivers, which for that reason has the greatest number 
of settlements ; but the whole is settling rapidly. There are large 
beds of limestone and freestone in the district, and these are in- 
terspersed with beds of clay, which retain the water, and this cir- 
cumstance gives the country a preference over Kentucky. Iron 
ore is plenty, and it is supposed the hills abound with coal. 

The whole is well watered, abounding in springs and small 
streams, having excellent situations for mill seats ; the Ohio 
washes it on the south, a distance of 60 miles ; and the Scioto 
washes it on the west its wliole length. The Scioto is a very 
beautiful stream. It rises about 60 miles to the north-west of this 
district, within a few miles of the Sandusky river, and pursuing a 
south-east course, passes the Indian boundary line, from whence 
it runs nearly a south direction, about 50 miles ; and at Frank- 
hnton forms a junction with a fine sti'eam called Whetstone river. 
South of this about 10 or 12 miles it receives the waters of Bi«- 
Belly's creek, composed of Walnut creek and Alum creek, and 
thence runs nearly south, receiving, in its progress i'rom the west, 
Derby creek. Deer creek, and Paint creek ; from the east. Low- 
er Walnut creek, Sippo creek, and Salt creek; besides a great 
number of small streams ; and, thus augmented, it falls into the 
Ohio, 70 miles by water, and 45 by land, below Chillicothe. The 
river has a fine gentle current, throughout its whole course, and 
is navigable for keel- boats to ChiUicothe, and for smaller craft 
nearly to its source. There are several mineral springs in the disf 
trict; the chief are a salt spring, and a sulphur sprii-;cr, not far 
fruni Chillicothe. 

54 



426 TRAVELS IN 

This district is finely timbered ; the principal kinds are oak, 
hickory, ash, sugar-maple, chesnut, honey-locust, walnut, &c. ; 
and the soil is kindly to the raising of fruits, vegetables, grain, 
and grass. 

Land is very various in price, according to situation and quali- 
ty. The United States' lands are tv/o dollars })er acre, with four 
y fears to pay them; or if purchased for cash, 1 dollar 64 cents. 
A good deal of the best of these are picked up, but many desira- 
ble tracts yet remain ; and from the unquestionable security of 
the land-titles, they generally meet with a preference. The bot- 
tom lands are nearly all engrossed by individuals, and are resold 
as hio-h as they can. The average piicefor uncleared land, in the 
bottoms, is about five or six dollars per acre. Farms of land, 
partly improved, are constantly in the market, at from two to six 
dollars, according to the quality of the soil, and the value of the 
improvements. Horses sell for 40 to 80 dollars; cows 10 to 12 
dollars; sheep 2 dollars each. 

This district contains part of 10 counties, and the inhabitants 
may be estimated at about 30,000, who have all settled here with- 
in 25 years ; and the population is likely to increase very fast, par- 
ticularly on the banks of the Scioto, where the seat of government 
will be ultimately fixed, the site of it being on the east side of the 
river, nearly opposite to Franklinton. 

The lands in this district are rated, in the state books, nearly 
as follows, whence some idea may be formed of the soil : in 100 
parts, 4 are of Ist rate, 52 2d rate, and 44 3d rate: but it is to 
be observed that this gives only a relative idea, for a great deal 
of the third rate land, in the state of Ohio, would be reckoned first 
rate in some other places. A general remark may also be made, 
that the occupiers of land, particularly non-residents, holding 
large tracts, will, in order to save the land-tax, probably in their 
returns make as mucii of the land second and third rate, as they 
consistently can. First rate land pays a tax of 1 dollar 20 cents 
per 1 00 acres ; second rate 1 dollar ; and durd rate 60 cents. 

Although the average price of land may be quoted at 2 dollars, 
and some as high as 10 or 12 dollars, yet some districts of hilly 
land could be purchased for half a dollar an acre, and probably 
one of the best businesses in all the country would be sheep-farm- 
ino- in such districts, connected with the manufacture of woollen 
yam and cloth. 



OHIO. 4S7 

On the Virginia military lands my observations shall be short, 
because a great many of those made on the Chillicothe district ap- 
plies also to them, and there are certain general remarks that will 
be more appropriate in the general account of the state of Ohio. 
This tract is bounded by the Indian boundary line on the north, 
by the Ohio on the south, by the. Cincinnati district and Symraes's 
purchase on the west, and by the Chillicothe district on the east. 
It is about 120 miles long, and nearly 60 broad; and contains up- 
wards of 6000 square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 of acres. 

The face of the country, soil, and timber are very nearly assi- 
milated to those in the Chillicothe district. There are a great 
variety of small streams, and desirable situations for mill-seats. 

The principal settlers are from Virginia, Kentucky, Pennsyl- 
vania, and Jersey; the inhabitants amount to about 48,000, and 
are rapidly increasing in number, in wealth, and improvements. 

By the state books, this district appears to be 4 per cent 1 st 
rate, 60 per cent 2d rate, and 36 per cent 3d rate land. 

The country in the immediate neighbourhood of Chillicothe is 
really beautiful. The plain on which it stands, consisting of a- 
bout 1 0,000 acres, is as level as a bowling-green ; and it is bound- 
ed on the west, north-west, and south-east by pretty high hills, 
from whence there are charming views. The Scioto is a clear 
stream, about 200 yards broad, with a gravelly bottom, and abounds 
with fish, so that it is both useful and ornamental to the towp. 



CHAPTER LXXXV. 

Leave Chillicothe^ — Nevo Lancaster^ — Springfield, — Zanesville. 

October 6th. I left Chilllcothe at 6 o'clock. The morning 
was foggy and cool. The river was low, and I forded it about 
knee deep. On reaching the north bank, I passed through a fine 
bottom, the property of Mr. Zane, of Wheeling, to be after- 
wards noticed. Here the dew was so heav}', that the lofty trees 
shook their pearly drops over me like a shower of rain. About 
half a mile from the river, the country rises by a gradual ascent, 
and the road continues good to Keneconek creek, a beautiful clear 
stream, which falls into the Scioto seven or eight miles above 
Chillicothe. There are some excellent flour-mills upon it, and 



428 TRAVELS IN 

iron ore has been found on its banks. Nine miles from Chillicothe, 
I stopped at a small tavern to breakfast. 

Here the landlord informed me he had moved from Kentucky, 
and liked this country better, principally on account of the free- 
dom from slavery, and the security of his land- title. To the busi- 
ness of farming a small piece of land, he added that of teaching a 
school and keeping a tavern, by which means he makes a com- 
fortable subsistence for his family ; and I have no doubt but he will 
do very well. He informed me that this part of the country was 
very healthy, and his rosy children bore testimony to the truth of 
the remark. 

After breakfast, I passed through a number of small plains or 
prairies, quite bare of trees, and generally about a quarter of a 
mile broad ; and, passing a branch of Salt creek, I arrived at Tarl- 
ton, a small place, consisting of 12 or 13 houses only. Here I 
fell in with a Scots bookseller, from New York, who told me he had 
been at Cincinnati looking out for a settlement; we agreed to 
travel together to Zanesville. The settlers at Tarlton are mostly 
Germans. The salt-works, on Salt creek, are eight miles below 
this place ; the country round is fertile, and the climate healthy. 

Leaving Tarlton, we passed through a low rich country, with 
small swampy prairies, and not very thickly settled, to a tavern, 
seven miles from New Lancaster ; and here we fell in with two 
more travellers, going to tb.e eastward. From hence the country 
gets more elevated, the woods are principally black and white 
oak, and the small streams and springs are very abundant. We 
passed a stream called Clear creek, and, as we approached New 
Lancaster, we observed a number of small hills, some of them 
rpcky, but the soil good in the bottoms. At the west side qf the 
town, we passed over a swampy meadow, by a very good (urn- 
pike road, on which we paid a toll of 6^ cents, at a wooden 
bridge erected over the Hockhocking river, here a very small 
stream. Bej'ond this, the town is handsomely situated on a plain; 
we passed to the east end of it, and took up our lodgings for the 
night at a very good tavern. 

New Lancaster is a handsome little town, in the centre of Fair- 
field county, of which it is the capital. It was laid out 11 or 1 2 
years ago, and has been mostly settled by emigrants from Lan- 
caster, Pennsylvania, who gave it its name; but the greater part 
of the late settlers are from New England. It is regularly laid 



oaio. 429 

out, the streets crossing one another at right angles; the princi- 
pal buildings are upon one broad street. It is divided into lot? of 
S2 feet front, by 164 deep, which sell for about 300 dollars. 

The town now consists of about 100 houses, containing 350 in- 
habitants; the public buildings are a court-house and market-house; 
and there are nine taverns and 1 1 stores. 

The greater part of the inhabitants are mechanics. The price 
of labour is about the same as at Chillicothe. Provisions are rea- 
sonable; flour about 2 dollars 25 cents per cwt. ; beef 4 ctnts per 
lb. and other articles in proportion. 

The state of society is here very good ; the people are sober 
and industrious, and the laws well administered. Education is 
properly attended to, and this has a chance to become a very ex- 
cellent settlement. 

The country round New Lancaster is healthy, and the soil 
generally good. There is coal seven miles from hence on the 
waters of Rush creek, and freestone and limestone not far oif ; and 
there is iron ore at the falls of the Hockhocking, 18 miles below, 
at which the proprietor is about to establish iron works. 

Hockhocking river rises a little above this, and, being augment- 
ed by many small streams, pursues a very winding course to the 
south-eastward, and falls into the Ohio, after runnino- a course, 
including its windings, of nearly 100 miles. This river is navi- 
gable to the falls about 70 miles from its outlet. These falls are 
five feet high, and are a fine situation for mill-seats, and well im- 
proved. There are many mills above the falls ; among others, a 
paper-mill nine miles from this place. The banks of the river 
are pretty well settled from its outlet to Athens, but from thence 
to within 8 or 10 miles of New Lancaster, the country is rough, 
and the settlements thin. 

October 7. Another gentlemen travelling to the eastward join- 
ed us at New Lancaster, and we set out, five in number, this 
morning at 6 o'clock. Two miles from New Lancaster, we pass- 
ed a very elegant brick house, built by John Baldwin, who has a 
fine farm, beside a rivulet of pure water. In our progress we 
passed a great many such rivulets, all supplied with very pure 
w ater, and we were told they were fed by springs, and never dried 
up; which must be of great advantage to this part of the coun- 
try. Water is ahvays to be found of a good quality, by digging 
12 or H feet. 



'^•^0 TRAVELS IN 

We stopped at a good tavern to breakfast, 12 miles from New 
Lancaster, where we were told that the whole of the township was 
good, and so much improved that the scJiool section was leased 
for 56 dollars per annum. The money arising from it was divided 
among those who sent their children to school, in proportion to 
the number sent. 

From hence we rode about 14 miles to Jonathan creek, through 
a country agreeably uneven, rather hilly, indeed, having an ex- 
cellent soil for wheat ; the principal timber is oak, hickory, wal- 
nut, and chesnut. Jonathan creek, along which we travelled 
some way, is a beautiful little stream, with freestone banks, and a- 
bounding with mill-seats, coal, and iron ore ; and the whole 
country round was really beautiful, the view being enlivened by 
the radiant beams of the sun on a very fine evening. 

We travelled on through a rich valley, and passing through 
Springfield, a handsome place, mostly built on one street, we 
forded the Muskingum about knee deep, the current very rapid 
the bottom fine gravel, and the breadth about 150 yards, Wq 
arrived at Zanesville about sun-set. 



CHAPTER LXXXVI. 

Zanesville — Zanesville district. 

Or. STANBERY, of New York, vras the first person whom I 
heard mention Zanesville, in the course of my inquiries in the 
spring of this year ; I had, however, heard a good deal of it after- 
wards, and expected to find it a pretty little place. But it cer- 
tainly did exceed my expectations. I found a large thriving town, 
with a great number of handsome brick houses, the buildings 
going rapidly on ; and every thing wearing a flourishing aspect. 
The ground around it was well cleared, the neighbouring hills 
were getting into a state of cultivation, mills were erecting, and 
bridges, banks, and manufactures were projected. The situation 
too, for all these projects, appeared favourable. The Muskingum 
liver is navigable to this place, and beyond it, to near its head, 
from whence there is a communication with lake Erie, by a small 
portage. There are fine falls at Zanesville, and mills may be erect- 
ed to almost an unlimited extent. Licking creek pours its wa- 



TIEW ffthf COrNTMY 
ro^md 

ZAT^E.SV1L.L.E 




TBat^e 



OHIO. 431 

ters into the Muskingum by a cascade opposite the town, and af- 
fords also a fine situation for mill-seats, while it forms a very a- 
greeable prospect. The banks of these rivers abound with excel- 
lent soil, timber, coal, limestone, and iron ore ; and the great 
state road from Pittsburg to Kentucky passes through the town. 
" This must certainly become a fine situation for manufactures." 
Such were my first impressions on viewing Zanesville, and I 
resolved to spend some days there, to procure information and 
make remarks ; in doing which I met with every assistance from 
its friendly inhabitants. 1 had letters to two gentlemen in Zanes- 
ville, and they introduced me to many others, who greatly facili- 
tated my inquiries ; I shall condense the result of my observations 
into this chapter. 

Zanesville is situated on the Muskingum river, about 64? 
miles from the Ohio by land, and from 70 to 80 by water ; in 
north latitude 39° 58', west longitude from Washington 4° 50'. 
The scite of the town occupies a mile square, and extends to both 
sides of the river ; but all the buildings yet erected are on the east 
side, where the town is neatly laid out b}' streets and lanes, cross- 
ing one another at right angles like Chillicothe. The building lots 
are 132 feet deep, by 66 feet in front, making one-fifth of an acre 
and sell for from 100 to 1000 dollars. There are a number of 
out-lots of five acres each, and they sell for from 100 to 200 dol- 
lars an acre. 

The improvements in Zanesville commenced in the year 1804. 
Five years afterwards it contained 92 houses, and GOO inhabitants; 
it now contains about 250 houses, and upwards of 1200 inhabi- 
tants. The whole township contains 2154'. Many of the houses 
are built of brick, and a few of stone. The public buildings are, 
a court-house, occupied also as a state-house, a jail, and a land- 
office. There is no church, but one is about to be built, and a 
proposition has also been made to build a bridge over the Mus- 
kingum, and to establish a bank.* The town is supplied by ex- 
cellent water from pump-wells, which are generally about 45 
feet deep, but probably at no very distant period they will get a 
supply of spring water from the hills to the eastward of the town, 
which have a sufficient elevation to send it to the tops of the hioh- 
est houses. 

» The legislature at the last session passed acts to build a bridge and to incorporala 
J bank. Munay, Draper, Fairman. & Co. lately finished tlic plates for tl 6 notj*. 



432 TRAVELS IN 

Zanesville is a place of considerable trade; it has II taverns, 
and 1 1 stores ; and the following professions are exercised : masons 
and stone-CLittci's, brick -makers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, 
smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot 
and £ shoe-makers, butchers, bakers, hatters, taylors, printers, rope- 
makers, potters, and painters. The price of labour is nearly the 
same all over the western country : a common labourer has 75 cents 
per day, brick-makers have 5 dollars per 1000 for bricks, and 2 
dollars 50 cents for laying. Stone-cutters and carpenters work at 
the Philadelphia prices. Other trades have about one dollar per day. 

The markets are favourable to tradesmen and labourers. House- 
rent may be quoted at 36 to 50 dollars per annum ; coals 5J- cents 
per bushel, delivered ; wood 1 dollar per cord, delivered ; flour 4 
dollars per barrel ; meal 33 cents per cwt. ; potatoes 25 cents per 
bushel; turnips 12i: other vegetables plenty and cheap. Beef, 
mutton, and veal 3 to 4 cents per lb. ; pork 2 dollars 50 cents per 
cwt.: bacon 10 cents per lb. ; venison 25 per ham ; fowls 6^ each ; 
ducks 12i; geese 37i ; wild turkics 25; hog's lard 3 per lb.; 
cheese and butter 12^ ; whiskey and peach-brandy 40 per gallon ; 
cyder 5 dollars per barrel ; salt 1 dollar 50 cents per bushel; fish 
very plenty and cheap. Boarding from 1 dollar 75 cents to 2 dol- 
lars 50 cents per week. 

Various branches of manufactures might be established here to 
frreat advantage, of which may be enumerated, cotton-spinning 
and weaving, Mool-spinning and weaving, ropes, spun-yarn, and 
cotton bagging ; frame smith-work and hosiery; glass and glasg 
bottles ; beer and porter. The materials for all these are abun- 
dant, or can be easily ])rocured. Cotton is brought from Tennes- 
see at from four to five cents per lb. Sheep, both of the common 
and Merino breed, thrive remarkably well, and are getting very 
jilenty. Hemp grows luxui-iantly on the river bottoms ; iron is 
plenty every where tliroiigh the country ; every material for mak- 
ing glass is on the spot. Grain is very cheap ; and hops grow 
spontaneously. 

There is a spirit to encourage domestic manufactures among the 
inhabitants, and any manufacture that is calculated f )r the place, 
and well conducted, is certain to succeed. 

In point of commerce, Zanesville is likely to become a consider- 
able place. The banks of the Muskingum and its waters upward 
are settling rapidly ; and the quantity of produce that will come 



Ohio: 433 

down the river will encrease every year. At present, alifiost the 
only article of surplus produce is flour, of which the price has 
been quoted. Other articles are raised in abundance, but the 
great influx of emigrants consumes nearly the whole. 

The inhabitants of Zanesville are very mixed. About half are 
probably from Pennsylvania, and the remainder are principally 
from the New England states and Virginia. There are few fo- 
reigners. They are quiet and moral in their deportment, and are 
pretty well informed. There is no public seminary of education 
established as yet, but it is presumed an academy will soon be built ; 
and there is a good opening for a scientific teacher. The educa- 
tion of young ladies has not been neglected ; a female seminary 
was about to be established by two ladies from Baltimore. There 
are several common schools, and the fund for the support of this 
important branch of education is very ample ; but as it applies to 
the whole state, it will be noticed hereafter. 

The police of the town is at present on the same footing as the 
other townships, under the management of trustees ; but it was in- 
tended to apply for a charter of incorporation, and, if it is incor- 
porated, it will, of course, be under the direction of mayor, alder- 
men, &c. 

Zanesville district is bounded north by Canton district, south 
by the Ohio company's puichase, east by Steubenville and Mari- 
etta districts, and west by Chiilicothe district. Its length, from 
south to north, is about 72 miles; its breadth is about 50 miles ; 
and its area about 3,600 square miles, or 2,304,000 acres. 

Upwards of two-thirds of this district is occupied by the army 
lands, and a small portion is refugee lands. The fijce of the coun- 
try is beautifully diversified. To the south, along the Muskingum, 
the hills are pretty high and rough; to the north the surface is 
agreeably uneven, with some pretty high hills : to the north-west 
it is more level. The soil is various, but a great portion of it is 
good; the bottoms on the rivers are very rich, and the hills are 
generally covered with a strong mould, which answers well for 
wheat. The district stands, in the state books, about 4- per cent, 
of first rate ; 40 per cent, of second rate ; and 56 per cent, of 
third rate land. The whole is abundantly supplied with freestone, 
limestone, iron ore, and inexhaustible beds of coal. 

The district is remarkably well watered. The Muskingum runs 
through it from one extremity to the other. This beautiful river 



434 



TRAVELS IN 



merits particular notice. It rises in a small lake on the boundary 
line ofthe Connecticut reserve, and passing into that district, it runs 
west about 14 miles ; and from thence to the Cayahogan river, which 
falls into lake Erie, there is a portage of only seven or eight miles. 
From thence it bends to the south, and, running nearly a south 
direction, about 60 miles, receives in its progress, besides a num- 
ber of small streams, Sandy creek, Gutgatsink creek. Sugar 
creek, and Stillwater creek. From Stillwater, it runs nearly a 
western course to Coshocton, where it forms a junction with White 
Woman's creek. To this junction it bears the name of the Tusca- 
rawas branch, but it is now known by the general name of Mus- 
kingum. From Coshocton to Zanesville is 30 miles by land, but 
the river course is about 40, in a direction a little west of south, 
and it receives two considerable streams by the way, Wills creek 
and Wakatomika. At Zanesville it receives Licking creek, and, 
between this and the Ohio, it is augmented by a vast number of 
small streams. Its confluence with the Ohio was noticed at page 
.')44. Some of its tributary streams are very large. White Wo- 
man's creek is composed of Killbucks creek, Mohecan, John's 
creek, and Owl creek, which, with their head waters, cover a 
vast tract of country ; and Wills creek and Licking creek are both 
very considerable streams. The greater part of the waters of this 
river are fed by springs, which unquestionably contribute much to 
the health and comfort of the inhabitants; and the river is, incon- 
sequence, generally clear, and the water excellent. 

The natural timber is very fine, and of great variety. The 
chief kinds may be noticed : oak, walnut, hickory, cherry, sugar- 
maple, poplar, elm, ash, sycamore, honey-locust, &c. Fruit-trees 
of every kind thrive remarkably well: peach trees, raised from the 
stone, bear fruit in three years. Grain, grass, and vegetables, are 
riiiscd in abundance. 

The climate is healthy and agreeable. People from the eastern 
states say that the summers are not so ojipressive as in Vermont and 
Massachusetts, Vv'hile the winters are generally so mild, that cattle 
mostly graze in the fields. The spring commences about the 
ISth of March, and gardening begins about the 1st of Apri*, 
which is generally a very pleasant month ; but there are often a 
fjw days of cold stormy weather about the beginning of May. 
The warm weather commences about the middle of May, and 
continues till about the middle of September, being warmest a- 



OHjo. 435 

bout the beginning of June ; but the heat is moderate. There 
is no thermometer kept at Zanesville ; but so far as 1 could 
judge, it appeared that the extremity of the summer heat seldom 
exceeded 80°. The fall weather is temperate, dry, and bcautitul ; 
and continues till about the middle of December. The winters 
are very changeable, and subject to a great deal of rain. Ex- 
cept in the neighbourhood of ponds and undrained marshes, 
which are few, the country is very healthy. About Zanesville it is 
particularly so ; and as thei'e are no swamps nor ponds, but what 
can be drained, the district will become, I think, one of the most 
desirable in the United States. 

It is little more than 12 years since this district began to set- 
tle, and it now contains about 20,000 inhabitants. The people 
are very mixed. The greater part are from Pennsylvania, and 
the remainder mostly from Virginia, Maryland, Jerse}^, and New 
England. There are few foreigners. They are generally civil, 
discreet, and industrious. The first business of life, in a new 
country, being clearing of land, little attention can be paid to edu- 
cation or science for some time. In the towns, there are some sci- 
entific men, principally of the medical profession ; and there is a 
pretty general disposition to give the children instruction ; but a 
good deal has yet to be done to make this important subject at- 
tended to in the way it ought to be. People are to be found here 
of all the different persuasions in religion ; but none have any pe- 
culiar privileges, so that they have nothing of that kind to quar- 
rel about ; and all live in Christian charity. There is a news- 
paper established at Zanesville ; and as they get numerous others 
by mail, they are all well informed on the subject of politics. 
Every man, woman, and child, almost, read the newspapers ; and 
they express their opinions freely. An election took place while 
I was at Zanesville, and it was conducted with the irreatest har- 
mony imaginable. Each voter handed in a slip of paper containing 
the names of the candidates of his choice : it was deposited in 
a ballot-box, and the name of the voter was recorded. The 
polls were kept open from 10 till 4 o'clock, when all the votes 
were counted, and the candidates who had the greatest number 
were declared to be duly elected. I was told that the election 
was general throughout the state, on the same day, between the 
same hours, and that there was a poll in every township. This 
I consider a wise regulation, It is of great consequence, in a 



436 TRAVELS IN 

popular government, that the sentiments of the people be fairly 
expressed ; and this can be done in no way so completely as by 
small districts, in which the citizens can transact the whole business 
in a few hours ; and, being few in number, and all known to 
each other, the whole is conducted without tumult or noise, or 
any of those disgraceful scenes which often attend elections ou 
a large scale. 

Agriculture is, of course, the great business of a new country ; 
so that farmers, and such mechanics as contribute to the support 
of that important branch, are the best adapted to the country ; 
but I have no doubt that manufactures will flourish, although I 
think it may be prudent for such manufacturers only to go there 
as have capitals to carry on the business, and such workmen as 
are specially written for. The disposition to encourage manu- 
factures is sufficiently obvious, and there are some of the inhabi- 
tants who would even support a useful undertaking by pecuniary 
aid ; but the greater part of the capital in this country is ves- 
ted in new lands as fast as it is accumulated ; and there being a 
constant drain upon the specie capital, by payments to the U- 
nited States government, there is very little capital to spare 
for other objects. 

Very considerable progress has been made in constructing 
roads, and in other internal improvements. 

The price of land is various, according to situation and qua- 
lity. The United States lands here are the same as in other 
districts, 2 dollars per acre, on a credit, or 1 dollar 64 cents, 
cash ; but purchases can often be made of individuals on better 
terms, particularly from those who hold very large tracts. The 
land tax on a large tract is heavy, and after paying it a few years, 
without getting any return, the holders, particularly non-residents, 
are glad to sell out at any price. This circumstance, connected with 
that of the United States holding such large tracts of land at a low 
price, will always operate against land speculations on a large scale* 
The only mode in which a land trade can be profitable is to pur- 
chase a tract for cash, subdivide it into farms of different sizes to ac- 
commodate different settlers, and dispose of them at fair prices as 
soon as possible. In this way the land trade is fair and honoura- 
ble, being exactly similar to that of buying any other commodity 
by wholesale, and selling it by retail ; the public are accommodated, 
and the land-dealer has his certain reward. In any other way spe- 



OHIO. 43T 

culations in land are hazardous. Good lands rise in value, certain- 
ly ; but such as speculate in them on a large scale, with a view of 
making money, will in all probability be disappointed ; for the accu- 
mulation of interest, and the operation of the land-tax, will be found, 
generally, to amount to more than the rise on the lands. 

From the facility with which live stock may be reared, the price 
of them is reasonable. Horses sell from 25 to 75 dollars, cows 15 
to 20 dollars, sheep 2 to 2 dollars 50 cents. 

The scite of Zanesville, together with that of New Lancaster, and 
a tract of land at Chillicothe, each a mile square, were granted by 
the United States government to Mr. Zane, of Wheeling, as a com- 
pensation for his services in laying out the state road from Wheel- 
ing to Limestone, Two others were associated with Mr. Zane, and 
they divided the propert}'. Mr. Zane's share is that beautiful tract 
of bottom land opposite to Chillicothe, which is rapidly improving 
in value; so also is the scite of New Lancaster; but that of Zanes- 
ville exceeds them both : and if its progress is not checked by the 
proprietor setting too great a value upon the remaining lots, of which 
I think there is some little danger, it is likely to become a very fine 
place indeed. As a situation for manufactures it has almost every 
advantage; there is a sufficiency of water to drive 50 mills ; coal is 
on a hill in sight of the centre of the town ; and there are iron works 
within three or four miles of it; sheiep are thriving in a wonderful 
manner; the river navigation is complete; and the roads are im- 
proving every year. In sliort, I never saw a place that appeared to 
be better adapted for the establishment of almost every branch of 
manufactures ; and before leaving it, I shall say a few words on that 
subject generally. 

" Is it best that all our citizens should be employed in the im- 
provement of the land, or that one-half should be called off from 
that to exercise manufactures and handicraft arts for the other?" 
This question was proposed by a celebrated public character in 
the United States, in the year 1781 (see page 181,) and the an- 
swer to it (page 182) suggests an important reflection. It shows 
that the policy of the leading men in the United States, was fa- 
vourable to the system of foreign commerce, and opposed to the 
cstabhshment of internal manufactures; and the great chan.ie 
which has since taken place, must be predicated upon a very great 
change of circumstances. We accordingly find it stated in the 
last official report upon the subject (see page 278,) that " several 



438 TRAVELS IN 

of the obstacles which impeded the progress of manufactures have 
been removed or lessened. The cheapness of provisions ha4 al- 
ways, to a certain extent, counterbalanced the high price of 
manual labour ; and this is now, in many important branches, 
nearly superseded by the introduction of machinery. A great A- 
merican capital has been acquired during the last 20 years; and the 
injurious violation of the neutral commerce of the United States, 
by forcing industry and capital into other channels, have broken 
inveterate habits, and given a general impulse, to which must be 
ascribed the great increase of manufactures during the last two 
years." 

The first remai'k that presents itself is, that, in our reasonings 
upon this subject, we are extremely apt to associate with it the, 
idea of the miseries to be found in the workshops of Europe. iBut 
I think the association is incorrect. In Europe, particularly in 
those quarters of it under the operation of the feudal system, 
" manufactures are resorted to, of necessity, to support the sur- 
plus of their people." For the sale of the commodities manu- 
factured they are dependent on foreign markets. The work- 
ing people can seldom acquire any capital, they are obliged to ply 
from morning till night for a bare existence, and are subject to 
all the contingencies of a foreign export trade. Hence they are 
seldom even in comfortable circumstances ; when the foreign trade 
fails, their misery is often extreme. 

But the case is entirely different in the United States. Here 
every class is on an equal footing, and every branch of internal 
industry will naturally find its level. Manufactures will only 
flourish so far as they are on a level with other branches, and the 
workmen employed in them must be as well paid, as those em- 
ployed in agriculture ; in consequence of which we may fairly pre- 
sume, that they will be equally virtuous, iutelligent, and indepen- 
dent with the other members of the community. 

In a country where the government is exercised by the people, 
it is to be presumed that the state of society which is most conducive 
to internal independence is the best. A popular government can re- 
gulate the internal concerns of the country in a manner the best 
calculated to promote the public good : but they have no controul 
over foreign nations, and, so ftir as they are linked to them by ti-ade, 
foreign nations may controul them. I should think, therefore, 
that the state of society which is the most independent is that 



OHIO. 4o9 

which can supply the greatest number of its wants at home. That 
the manufactures of America will increase until they be equal to 
a supply of the demand at home, I have no doubt, and to that ex- 
tent they would be perfectly congenial with the practice of virtue. 
It is only when the produce is so great that they depend upon a 
foreign market for a vent of the surplus, that they become perni- 
cious. 

That manufactures and the mechanical arts are not in themselves 
hurtful to a community, is obvious from many considerations. 
Among others, a very bright example may be referred to in the 
Harmonist Society. They not only supply all their wants within 
themselves, but they sell annually a large portion of their manu- 
factures to their neiohbours ; yet we find that neither the orsra- 
nization of manufactures, nor the exercise of the mechanical arts, 
have at all tended to hurt their morals, or to interfere with their 
prosperity. On the contrary, they are probably the most virtu- 
ous society on the face of the earth, and they are flourishing be- 
yond all example. The plain reason is, that they are all on an 
equal footing at home, and are not dependent on any person a- 
broad. They can regulate their own affairs in their own way. 

And it does not follow that in the prosecution of manufactures 
and the mechanical arts, if confined toa supply of the internal con- 
sumption of the country, " one-half of the people are taken away 
from agriculture." I have not the means of calculating the pro- 
portion that will be necessary, but I observe that even in Britain, 
where they are so completely dependent upon foreign markets, it 
is nearly as one and seven-tenths to two : the agriculturists being 
estimated at 2,000,000, and the mechanics and m.anufacturers at 
1,730,000. In the Harmonist Society, the agriculturists are 103, 
mechanics 66, manufacturers 63; but the society have adopted 
the principle to raise no grain for sale, and to vest the whole of 
their surplus labour in manufactured articles for the country. By 
the re{jort before alluded to (see page 277,) it appears that the A- 
merican manufactures exceed 120,000,000 dollars, and the imports 
amount to about 30,000,000 dollars; so that the addition of one- 
fourth to the manufacturing class would perfect the system; but 
such is the proportion of labour that can be saved by machinery, 
that it is presumed, if it were fairly applied, the additional hands 
wanted would be much less than one-fourth, and not at nil so 
many as would make a sensible diminution in the ranks of the 



440 TRAVELS IN 

agriculturists. I have else where remarked, " that in every 
community there are a great number of the members who are bet- 
ter calculated for labour in the house than in the field." I may 
add here, that in proportion to the increase of manufactures in 
the country, will the farmer have a demand for his surplus pro- 
duce at home, and be less dependent on a foreign market ; and 
it appears that he can be better accommodated, generally, with 
home-made articles, as they are more substantial in the fabric, 
and can be adapted with greater facility to the taste of the wearer, 
than foreign manufactures. 

These remarks apply with peculiar force to the western couutry, 
where the produce is far from a market, and where materials for 
manufactures are so abundant. 



CHAPTER LXXXVII. 

Leave Zanesville, — CosJwcton, — New Philadelphia^ — Canton. 

October ISth. I set out from ZanesvlUe at 8 o'clock in the 
morning. I crossed the Muskingum by a boat, and travelled 
near the west bank, through a good tract of land, but little culti- 
vated. At 10, I passed over a pretty high hill, where I had a 
fine view, and, through a country agreeably diversified. I reach- 
ed Wakatomika creek, 1 5 miles from Zanesville. The land along 
the Muskingum would make very desirable farms, if cut into sec- 
tions, having a quarter of a mile along the river, and one mile 
back. At Wakatomika I sav/ a large flock of sheep, with some 
merinoes among them, and was informed they belonged to a Mr. 
Adams, who had been very successful in sheep-farming. The 
river banks are here fertile and beautiful ; and, on the west bank, 
there are large and fertile bottoms. I travelled along these, close by 
tiie river, about 2 miles, when I passed a methodist meeting-house. 
The hearers amounted to about 30 or 40 only ; but the preacher 
was holding forth as if he had been addressing as many thousands. 
He was literally roaring. A little beyond this, I stopped at a 
tavern to feed my horse, and was told the family was from Vir- 
ginia, and liked this place remarkably well. 

The bottoms continue 6 or 7 miles along the river, and are in- 
terspersed with several little openings, the work, no doubt, of 



OHIO. 



4U 



the Indian tribes, now no more in this place. About 6 miles from 
the tavern, I passed over some of the river-hills, rough, steep, 
and stony ; and thence descended into a rich bottom. Here I met 
a family in a waggon, travelling to New Lancaster, and they very 
civilly gave me information as to the best place of crossing the 
river. I obeyed their directions, and crossed over where they 
had done with their waggon. The river was here a beautiful 
stream, about 130 yards wide, above knee-deep, with a fine san- 
dy bottom. Along the east bank there is a beautiful plain of very 
rich land, 4 or 5 miles to Coshocton, at the confluence of White 
Woman's creek and Tuscarawa river, and, having reached it, I 
stopped all night. 

Coshocton is the seat of justice of Coshocton county, and is quite 
a new place, containing about 140 inhabitants. It is a little sub- 
ject to fever and ague ; but the unhealthiness will be but tempo- 
rary. This situation is beautiful, and the country round it is 
rich, abounding in coal, limestone and freestone. The timber is 
oak, chesnut, walnut, ike. ; and the woods abound with sassafras. 
A great deal of stock is raised here for the eastern market. The 
country is so favourable, that cattle, to the value of 2100 dollars, 
has been raised and sold off 90 acres of land ; and 4500 bushels 
of corn have been raised on 80 acres in one year. 

October 14th. As I was preparing for my journey, I fell in with 
a Scotsman from Edinburgh, and we had a little conversation about 
Auld Reekie. The morning was damp and foggy. I rode about 
a mile through the bottom, and could trace the cause of the fever 
and ague, in a number of little ponds which stand undrained in 
the meadow. The road passes over pretty high hills, about 5 
miles, and then descends into a rich plain, in which, however, 
there are but few settlements, and the people look sickly. At 10 
miles from Coshocton, I came to a small tavern, whei'e I stopped 
to breakfast. 

As I proposed to ride to New Philadelphia, 36 miles from Co- 
shocton, and the road was altogether new to me, and often cross- 
ed the river, I was anxious to be gone as soon as possible, and 
urged the landlady to make all the haste she could. She said she 
would have the breakfast ready in a minute; but the first indica- 
tion I saw of despatch was a preparation to twist the necks of two 
chickens. I told her to stop, and she gave me a look of astonish- 
ment. "Have you any eggs?" said I. "Yes, plenty," replied 



412 



TKAVELS IN 



slic, still keeping in a stooping posture, with the chicken in her 
hand. " Well," said I, "just boil an egg, and let me have it,, 
with a little bread and tea, and that will save you and I a great 
deal of trouble." She seemed quite embarrasi^ed, and said she 
never could set down a breakfast to me like that. I assured her 
I would take nothing else. " Shall 1 fry some ham for you along 
with the eggs ?" said she. " No," said I, " not a bit." " Well, 
will you take a little stewed pork ?" " No," said I. " Shall I 
make some fritters for you ?" " No." " Preserve me, what 
will j-ou take, then ?" " A little bread, and tea, and an egg." 
" Well, you're the most extraordinary man that I ever saw ; but 
I can't set down a table that way." I saw that I was only to lose 
time by contesting the matter farther; so I allowed her to follow 
her own plan as to the cooking, assuring her that I would take 
mine as to eating. She detained me about half an hour, and at 
last j)laced upon the table a profusion of ham, eggs, fritters, 
bread, butter, and some excellent tea. All the time I was 
at breakfast, she kept pressing me to eat ; but I kept my own 
counsel, and touched none of the dishes, except the bread, tea, 
and an egg. She affected great surprize, and when I paid her the 
ordinary fare, a quarter of a dollar, she said it was hardly worth 
any thing. I mention this circumstance to show the kind hos- 
pitality of the landlady, and the good living enjoyed by the back- 
woods people. 

About a mile from the tavern, I passed a school, and thence 
through fertile bottoms, bounded by pretty high hills, well calcula- 
ted for sheep grazing. At half past 111 crossed the river, which 
was above knee deep, and about 80 yards wide, with a fine gra- 
velly bottom. At 12 o'clock 1 passed through New Comer's 
town, and travelled about half an hour through pretty extensive 
plains. I then ascended a little hill, with a spring by the side of 
the way, which had a very bad smell ; and I observed in the neigh-p 
bourhood a great deal of wood in a decaying state, and a vast 
quantity of leaves almost in a ste of putridity. The land is un- 
commonly rich; but there are few settlements. From hence is 
about 4- miles, through a pretty muddy road, to Yankee-town, 
where there are a number of thriving settlements; but, owing to 
its being an Indian reservation, the settlers cannot become possessed 
of the hind, and they move off as scon as they get land cf their 
cv/n; so that the place will probably not soon be of much importanc«» 



OHIO. 443 

Beyond Yankee-town I again crossed the river, about knee 
deep, and stopped at Gnadenhutten, a small town, consisting of 
3 or 4 houses, a post-office, tavern, and store. The people are 
mostly Gennans from Bedford, Pennsylvania, and appear to be 
very poor. This is also au Indian reservation. Two miles and a 
half from Gnadenhutten I again crossed the river, above knee 
deep, the bottom fine sand, and the water pure. The road, for 
a mile beyond the river, is very bad, ihrougli a rich bottom, after 
which it improves, and pastes through a very beautiful country 
to Shoenbrun, an Indian town, consisting of a few houses only. 
The Indians look wretchedly poor. Half a mile beyond this I 
again crossed the river, knee i\ee\\, and tlience passed on through 
a fine level plain, a few miles, to New Pliiladelphia, where I stop- 
ped all night. 

New Philadelphia is situated on a beautiful plain of 3000 acres, 
m alarfje bend oftheTuscarawa river. It was laid out in 1804, and 
is now the seat of justice of Tuscarawa county, and consists ot 
about 22 dwelling-houses, containing ,180 inhabitant?. It is di- 
vided into lots 88 feet square, which sell at from 20 to 200 dollars. 
The settlers are mostly Germans from Pennsylvania. The pi'o- 
duce of the country is not more than sufficient for the settlement, 
except stock, which they drive to the eastward : the cattle to 
Philadelphia, and the hogs to Baltimore. The land is good in the 
neighbourhood, and sells for about 4 dollars per acre. The tim- 
ber is oak, hickory, walnut, sugar-maple, and elm; and great 
quantities of Columbia root grows in the wood?, of which 500 
pounds might, in some places, be gathered in a day. Coal, lime- 
stone, iron ore, and freestone abound in the neighbourhood. 

October 15th. This morning I fell in with an honest Dutch 
farmer, and a young man from Cleveland ; and, as they were go- 
ing the same road, I availed myself of their company. We tra- 
velled through the })lain about 2 miles, and I observed that the 
soil was very sandy, and a great under grovv'tli of oak hadsprnn"- 
up in the course of a few years, a proof that these open prairies 
must have been kept clear of wood by the annual fires of the In- 
dians. Some of the adjoining hills were cultivated, and bore ex- 
cellent crops of wheat. To the north there is an opening, and 
an extensive prospect. 

Two miles from the town we forded the river, about SO yards 
wide, and about knee deep, the bottom gravel, and the banks fer- 



441 TRAVELS IN 

tile, but uncultivated. The lands on the north side of the river 
rise very beautifully, by a gradual ascent, and are of an excellent 
quality. I was told that a considerable quantity was Jiere for sale. 
I found our traveller from Lake Erie very communicative, and he 
gave me a great deal of information about the banks of the lake. 
The German told me he was settled, very much to his satisfaction, 
not far from where I breakfasted yesterday morning. He said the 
fever and ague will be very temporary, as the river is pure water, 
and the lands can be all drained. The river makes a considerable 
bend to the eastward, to where it receives the waters of Gutgat- 
sink creek, and the road runs right along its banks, where the 
whole country is really beautiful ; but as we proceeded in our 
course the bottom on which we travelled became narrow and stony. 
We passed the river by a fine ford, about 60 yards wide, as usual 
about knee deep, and a gravelly bottom. This is the seventh time 
that I forded this river since I left Zanesville, and I always found 
nearly the same result — clear water, knee deep, and gravelly bot- 
tom ; and 1 have no hesitation in pronouncing it the most beautiful 
river I ever saw, except the Ohio; and the scenery on its banks is 
even more beautiful than on the Ohio. This is a very fine coun- 
try, and will, in my opinion, become the seat of most extensive 
and thriving settlements. 

After crossing the river we called at the house of a Dutch 
farmer, who told us he had settled here 10 years ago, at which 
time there was no house between him and Gnadenhutten, and 
there are now numerous settlements; a proof of the rapidity with 
Ai'hich this country is settling up. We travelled along a fertile 
plain on the river's bank, bounded with pretty high land on our 
right, for four miles, and stopped at a Dutch tavern to breakfast. 

The Dutch people make excellent settlers in a new country, 
they are a plodding, slow, sure-footed, sober race; and have an 
excellent knack at finding out the rich places. The only foe 
they have to encounter is the ague ; but they seem to be used to 
it, as the lisherwoman's eels were to skinning. They don't mind 
a shake. One uf the women here, a gi'eat long, lank, leathern- 
necked hussy, as yellow as an orange, was chattering in a cor- 
ner like a pair of castanets; but the res.t of the females were -.if- 
ficiently active, though, blessed be the maker, they were "nae 
temptation." However they gave us an excellent breakfast, for 
which we cheerluily paid our quarter of a dollar each, dnd de-r 
parted. 



OHIO. 445 

A few miles from thence we crossed Sandy creek, where it 
forms the junction with the Tuscarawa. It is here a considerable 
stream, nearly as large as the Tuscarawa itself. To the west are 
extensive prairies, and the view along them is uncommonly ele- 
gant. After crossing the river we took a bye path which led us 
over a range of hills, some of them so steep that we could hardly 
sit on our horses; and about two miles from Sandy river we 
fell into the main road, where the German left me, and I jogged 
on alone towards Canton, now nine miles distant. On getting 
over the hilly district, the road passes through a tract of wet, 
muddy land ; the soil is rich, and heavily timbered, but the road 
very bad ; and this continues to within two miles of Canton, where 
the country opens out into a very extensive prairie. Along this I 
rode a litile way, when I passed a branch of Nimshilen creek, 
which I forded about knee deep. Tliere I passed through a small 
stripe of wood, and entering the prairie on the east side of it, 1 
had a view of Canton, finely situated in the open plain, and reach- 
ed it at three o'clock. 



CHAPTER LXXXVIII. 

Canton, — Can ton district, — Connecticut reserve, — Cleveland. 

C/ ANTON is the seat of justice for Stark county, and is situated 
in latitude 40° 48', about 100 miles from Pittsburg, and nearly 400 
from Philadelphia. It is regularly laid out in streets and lots. 
The streets are from 80 to 100 feet wide, crossing one another at 
right angles, and there is a square in the centre. The lots are 
about 250 in number and 66 feet in front by 198 deep, being near 
one-third of an acre, and they sell for from 50 to 300 dollars. 

Canton was laid out about five years ago, and now consists of 
SO dwelling-houses, four taverns, and nine stores. The number 
of inhabitants is about 250. There are no public buildings. 

The inhabitants are composed of farmers and mechanics, and 
are mostly from Pennsylvania. No manufactures have yet been 
established except in families, but these are general; and there are 
a number of mills in the neighbourhood, and several wool carding 
machines. Slictp thrive remarkably well in the neighbourhood, 
and it is presumed a manuftictnre of coarse woollens would succeed. 



446 ' TRAVELS IK 

The price of labour is nearly the same as at Zanesville , common 
labourers have 50 cents per day and found, masons, carpenters, 
&c., one dollar per d:.iy. The great influx of new settlers consume 
all the surplus provisions, except stock ; which is sent to a market 
at Piiiladelphia and Baltimore. Flour sells at five dollars per bar- 
rel, beef at 3 dollars 50 cents per cwt. 

The climate is pretty healthy. Some few cases of fever and ague 
occur, but they aie not very common. 

Canton District was lately purchased from the Indians, and 
extends from the Tuscarawa river about 68 miles to the westward? 
and from the Connecticut reservation to the north boundary of 
Zanesville and Chillicothe districts, its average breadth being 28 
miles. Its area is about 1800 square miles, or 1,152,000 acres. 

The district is nearly all level, and fit for cultivation, but it is 
in many parts very muddy, a circumstance common in the districts 
situated on the head waters of the rivers in this state. On this ac- 
count it is difficult to make good roads, and it requires a pretty 
thick population to drain the country, and make it agreeable ; but 
there is a sufficient descent for carrying off the water, and this will 
be a very desirable country some time hence. It is abundantly 
supplied with springs, and streams of pure water. There is a great 
deal of prairie or meadow land interspersed through it. 

The principal timber is walnut, poplar, ash, elm, oak, sugar 
maple, and hickory. The soil is well adapted to the culture of 
grain, grass, tobacco, hemp, &c. 

This district is settling up mostly by people from Pennsylvania. 
It is divided into two counties; but the population is yet very thin, 
and is principally confined to the banks of the rivers. Very fa- 
vourable purchases could at present be made in the district. The 
greater part of the land is, of course, in the hands of the United 
States government. The price has been noticed before. The land- 
office is at Canton. 

October 16th. Last evening the weather was very warm, with 
a south wind, and thick dense clouds. Towards nine o'clock it 
cleared up, but the sky was heavy, and indicated rain. The comet 
was to be seen with an uncommonly long tail. In the morning it 
became suddenly cool, and it rained violently till about 1 1 o'clock. 
I was anxious to move on ; but I could not complain, for this was 
the only detention I met with from the weather, except half an hour 
on the Ohio, in a journey of 1500 miles. At 12 o'clock it cleared 



OHIO. 447 

»p, and having met with a travellintr companion gouig to Sprino-- 
fielcJ, in the Connecticut reservation, we set out tofjether. 

We traveiletl about a mile through the open plain, when we en- 
tered the woods, but tiie trees were not thick. Six miles frora 
Canton we passed a branch of N'umshilen creek, where a saw~miU 
is erected, the property of a Mr. Everhart ; and about a mile fur- 
ther we came to a very muddy road, through a thick wood, where 
we met with a sudden alarm. In the course of our journey the 
weather had assumed a settled aspect, and the sun occasionally 
peeped through the clouds; but now the sky was suddenly overcast, 
and it began to rain. We took shelter below a large tree. In a 
few minutes Vve heard a noise like distant thunder, and it continued 
to approach us. It was the effect of the wind on the woods, which 
reaching us brought down a limb from a tree in our neiahbourhood 
with a crash. We left our position, and moved onwjird as fast as 
a road, which nearly took our horses to the knees, would allow us. 
The storm increased — the wind raged — limbs cracked, and the 
leaves of trees flew about in all directions, darkening the air in 
their flight : the woods rung with the falling of trees ; and, to com- 
plete the alai-m, a whole tree was blown down with dreadful vio- 
lence close by us. We were for a few moments rivetted to the spot; 
but our alarm soon subsided — it was now a dead calm — all was as 
silent as the grave, and nothing of the squall remained but its ex- 
traordinary effects on the woods. 

We moved on, and came to a little clearing, and a small cabin, 
where we proposed taking shelter; but the people giving it as their 
opinion that the storm was over, vve went on to a tavern 1 miles 
from Canton. The family informed us that they had moved from 
Maryland, and were of German origin ; they could still speak 
German, although their grandfather had left his native country 60 
or 70 years ago. 

After leaving the tavern about a mile, we saw a tent pitched in 
the woods a little of!" the road, and turned aside to make inquiries. 
This was an einigrant family, consisting of a man, his wife, and two 
children. They had travelled far in quest of a settlement, and their 
means being exhausted, they were obliged to stop short at this 
place, where they meant to sit down and clear and cultivate a piece 
of land. In the language of the country, they were squatters. The 
only visible substance they had, was a tent, a waggon, a horse, a 
cow, and some bedding. The tent antl beddinf,^ had been drench- 



448 



TRAVELS IN 



ed by the rain, but they had a large fire before the door, at whicfi 
the bedding was hung up to dr^', and they sat round it apparently 
very contented. Little do those who live in cities know of the hard- 
ships to be endured by those who subdue and settle the wilderness ! 
and yet perhaps the life of the latter is most to be envied ; they 
are free from all care except that of providing for their families, 
and the real wants of a family are easily supplied ; tliey have no 
credit to support nor bills to pay ; and they can train up their chil- 
dren in the paths of virtue and of industry, far removed from the 
evil example of the wicked ; no artificial circumstance stands be- 
tween them and their maker : they can behold the bounty of his 
providence in theirflocks, and herds, and in the fields around them ; 
they can work their daily task, confident of a reward ; and, bless- 
ing the God of mercies, they can repose their heads on the pillow, 
and enjoy a sweet sleep, the reward of rational labour, and a good 
conscience. 

A little beyond this encampment the country becomes ridgy and 
barren; we travelled a mile, when we crossed the Tuscarawa, by a 
wooden bridge. This is now the eighth time that I have crossed 
this river since leaving Zanesville. Here it is a small stream, quite 
coveied whh brushwood, and its source is in a small lake, a few miles 
to the eastward. We now entered into the Connecticut Reserva- 
tion, at the 41st degree of latitude, and this being the dividing ridge 
between the northern and southern waters, the same train of reflec- 
tions occurred as on the top of the Allegany mountains (see page 
306.) On a shower of rain falling here, part of it finds its way to 
the ocean at New Orleans, and part at the gulf of St. Lawrence, dis- 
tant upwards of 2000 miles. 

After passing the ridge we came into a fine open plain of fertile 
land, in which were a great many fields of wheat, and about the 
midde of it my fellow traveller and I parted. At the end of this 
plain the road v.inds to the westward, through pretty thick woods, 
in which I travelled about three miles, and coming to a small open- 
ing, 1 stopped for the night at the house of a Mr. Bradley. 

Mr. Bradley told me he moved from the north-west corner of 
Connecticut to Canfiekl, 35 miles to the eastward, and two years 
ago he had removed to this place. This township is called Spring- 
field, and has settled up pretty fast within a few years ; it now con- 
tains 24 families.' It has been tolerably healthy this season ; but 
some of the adjoining townships have been very much afflicted with 



OHIO. 449 

fever and ague. There is a number of tracts of good land in 
the town, and it is favourable for raising all sorts of small grain, 
grass, and vegetables. Pumpkins grow to an enormous size, and 
the people live a good deal upon pumpkin pies. 

Mr. Bradley has a thriving family of six sons and one daughter. 
They have quite the Connecticut appearance. They say they like 
this country very well. 

October 17. I set out from Mr. Bradley's at half past 6 o'clock; 
the morning was clear, with a little frost. Having travelled about 
three miles, through a muddy road, I crossed the south branch of 
the Cayahoga river by a wooden bridge. It is here a dull black 
stream, covered with brushwood. The north bank rises by a gen- 
tle elevation, and is capable of cultivation ; bui it is pooi" land. I 
was now in Tamage township ; the country is very thisily seftied, 
and the road deplorably bad. Having passed through Tamage five 
miles, I entered into Stow, and soon after crossed the main branch 
of the Cayahoga river, by a shallow ford ; the river is about 80 yards 
broad, and the bottom stony. There arc several settlements on its 
banks, mostly of people from Connecticut. About a mile from the 
river I stopped to breakfast. 

Here I was informed by the i'amily, that they were from Mid- 
dleton, Connecticut; from whence a good many of the settlers in 
this town are. The country has suffered a good deal from fever 
and ague this summer ; more, indeed, than in any season they have 
been in the country, now 10 years. This township contains about 
40 families, 20 of whom have settled here within two years. The 
adjoining towns of Olmstead and Northampton are not well settled, 
being very much subject to fever and ague, which is the case in a 
great part of Portage county, and the settlers now move more to the 
Fire lands. The town of Hudson, to the north, is an old and thriv- 
ing settlement ; the people have fine dairies, and make a great quan- 
tity of excellent cheese and butter for the supply of other parts of 
the country, and for the Nev/ Orleans market. 

Hitherto I had seen nothing but log houses since I left Canton, 
and I was desirous of seeing Hudson,where I was told there were a 
number of handsome frame houses; but I was informed the 
road was so bad that I could not get along, and was advised to go 
by the portage path. 

In pursuance of this advice, I took a road leading to the west- 
ward, by tlie banks of the river, on wliich there were some settle- 

57 



450 THAVELS IN 

nients, and t passed a beautiful little lake of pure water. About S 
. miles from the tavern I came into the portage road, and turning 
to the northward about half a mile, I came to a pretty little settle- 
ment on tlie banks of a stream called Mud creek, where there is 
a fine fall of water and a saw-mill. The people here look healthy, 
?ind on askin:; one of then\ how he liked the country, he answered, 
" mighty well." 

I passed the creek by a wooden bridge, from whence the road as- 
cends a protty steep bank, from which I anticipated a good road ; 
but was sadly disappointed. It passed through a series of mud 
swamps, in some of which my horse sunk to the knees. Getting 
through these, I reached a dry elevated rising ground, where I saw 
two deer bound across before me, and several very large black tur- 
kies took flight from the tops of the trees. Six miles from the creek 
I passed a farm-house, where I was told that the Cayahoga river 
was 2 miles to the westward, and that I was now in the township 
of Boston. From thence I passed through the worst road I had 
yet seen in America, 8 miles, and reached a small settlement at 
the junction of the Hudson road with the portage road ; here I stop- 
ped to feed my horse, after the fatiguing journey it had encounter- 
ed. 1 thought I must surely have been misinformed as to the road 
by Hudson ; it could not be so bad as that I had passed. I men- 
tioned this to the landlord ; but he assured me that my informa- 
tion was quite correct. The Hudson road was 10 degrees worse 
than the other. While I stopped here, a family came in with 
a waggon, v.'ho informed me they were from Champlain, out 5 
weeks, and were bound for the Miami country. From Cham- 
plain to the Miami country is not less than 800 miles, — a long, 
and fatiguing journey for a family; but they will have a beau- 
tiful and fertile country when they arrive at their place of des- 
tination. 

Soon after leaving this place 1 came up with a waggoner, 
who informed me his business was to haul salt, &c. from Cleveland, 
on the lake, to the portage on the Tuscarawa, and that the dis- 
tance was about 42 miles. He had been out in the rain all 
yesterday, and was out in the frost all night without a fire, or the 
means of making one. A few miles from where we met we 
readied a settlement on Tinker's creek, where we stopped all 
night. 

linker's creek has its rise beyond the town of Hudson, and 



OHIO. 451 

is here a considerable stream, running in a deep valley, where it 
drives several mills. It falls into the Cayahoga river, a little be- 
low where we stopped. 

The landlord was from home, and the family were ill provided. 
They had no bread, nor wherewithal to make it ; they had no 
beef, and no sugar ; but they had some bad tea, bad potatoes, 
and pork such as I have seen in North Carolina. They made a 
sort of non-descript dish, by stewing a few slices of potatoes with 
the pork, and served it up, swimming in butter. It put me in 
mind of Burns' 

" Olio that would sta* a sow." 

However, my fellow-traveller, the salt-hauler, made a very hear- 
ty meal; and I took a liitle, and but a little of it, albeit I had got no 
dinner, and had a pretty good appetite. Some milk came in 
from the cows, of which I partook freely, and an obliging Rhode 
Islander, who lodged at the house, favoured me with a little 
whiskey and water, which I found a real cordial. 

The night was very cold, and the kitchen, which contained 
the only fire in the house, being ill secured against it, I retired 
to bed in an adjoining room. As I dreaded the effects of the cold, 
I threw my own clothes over the bed-clothes, and, noticing a 
pane out of one of the windows, I shoved an empty bag into it, 
and retired to rest. 

October 18th. I awoke early this morning, shivering with 
cold, and wished it might soon be day-light, that I might depart 
from this uncomfortable place. At last day dawned, and I was 
not long in perceiving the light, for it poured in upon me in all 
directions, perpendicularly, diagonally, and laterally. The house 
was literally like a riddle, and there was an opening almost close 
by my bed-side, that would have let in a hprse. When I looked 
round, and perceived so many openings, 1 could not but laugh 
at my precaution of last night, in stopping up the broken window ; 
where, however, I allowed the bag to remain, as an admonition 
to the people to repair the house before winter. 

At half past 6 I set out towards Cleveland, now 12 miles dis- 
tant. I ascended from the creek by a pretty steep path, from 
whence I travelled a few miles to another creek, having a fall of 
about 80 feet, and handsome free-stone banks. I saw some mills, 



452 TRAVELS IN 

but they were idle, and appeared to be going to decay. The 
country appeared poor, and the people sickly. 

Fi"om Canton to this place, the travelling had been far from 
agreeable ; the roads were muddy, and often deep ; and the coun- 
try was one dull plain, without a single object to exhilarate the 
imagination, or cheer the spirits ; and latterly the people looked 
pale and sickly. But I was buoyed up with the anticipation of 
the beauties of Lake Erie, to which I posted with all the alacrity of 
impatience. I noticed, as I went along, that the country on 
the banks of the Cayahoga river were improved; the road led by a 
liiiih bank, from whence there was a fine view to the westward ; 
the bottoms on the river were extensive and fertile ; though I ob- 
served the seeds of disease in its slow, sluggish, winding course, 
choked up with a vast quantity of vegetable matter undergoing de- 
composition; and at every settlement I passed, the pale, sickly 
visages of the inhabitants confirmed the remark. At last. Lake 
Erie appeared, with a beautiful, blue, placid surface, checkering 
through the trees. I reached Cleveland ; but, without stopping 
to examine the city, I rode on to the bank, where, from an emi- 
nence about 70 feet high, 1 beheld the lake in all its glory. To 
the northward, no land was to be seen ; and to the east and west, 
the banks were high, and the scenery very picturesque; the view 
Avas really sublime. I was delighted with it; and, full of the 
pleasing sensations which such a view was calculated to excite, I 
pursued my way to the tavern. But, O ! what a contrast was 
there ! the people looked pale, sickly, and dejected. I learned 
that they had been afflicted with a very severe sickness this sea- 
son. It was periodical, they said, and generally fever and ague ; 
but this season it had been worse than usual, and accompanied 
with some very severe cases of bilious fever. I found that this had 
proved a complete check upon the improvement of Cleveland, 
which, though dignified with the name of a city, remained a pal- 
try village, containing a few houses only. 



oino. 



453 



\ 



CHAPTER LXXXIX. 

Cleveland f — Banks of Lake Erie. 

There are certain striking circumstances which have a ten- 
dency to make a forcible and durable impression upon the mind; 
and it is the object of reason to correct them, and render them 
consistent with truth. From Volney's View of the Climate of the 
United States, I was led to believe that the banks of Lake Erie 
were unhealthy.* The first point I landed at was "infested with 
fevers," and I naturally concluded, that the account which repre- 
sents these to be general on its margin was correct. I met with a 
Mr. Strong at Cleveland, who was recently from Onondago, in 
the state of New York, and had travelled along the banks of the 
lake to the eastward. I communicated my impressions to him, 
when he assured me they were incorrect, for he had not met with 
any sickness on the lake before he reached this place. He in- 
formed me that his object was to make a survey of part of the 
state of Ohio, with a view of finding a township of good land, in 
an agreeable situation, that he and some of his neighbours misht 
retire to. On this account, he had paid particular attention to the 
banks of the lake, and found no sickness whatever ; but the land 
he considered as not the best, and resolved to extend his tour. 
He was waiting for a travelling companion, who was coming by 
yWater from Buffalo. 

Mr. Strong and I having the same object in view, that of 
prdv'uring authentic information, cemented a temporary friend- 
ship. I found him an intelligent, well-informed man, and got a 
good deal of local information from him. We took a walk to the 
lake shore, and went along to the outlet of the river. The river 
winds through rich bottoms by a very sluggish stream, and when 
within 40 or 50 yards of the lake, holds a west course of about 
300 yards, and is divided all the way from the lake by a narrow 
sand-bank. The mouth of the river is choaked up by a sand-bar, 
which dams up the water, and prevents it from having a free 
passage. It stands in a deep pool, two or three miles long ; and 

* " In the western country, I should prefer to live, 100 years hence, on the mar- 
gin of Lake Erie, for then it will not, as now, be infested with fevers." — Volney'* 
View. 



454 TRAVELS IN 

the water being stagnant, and contaminated by decaying vegets* 
bles, afflicts the inhabitants on its margin with fever and acme. 
If putrid animal substances be added, they will be afflicted with 
bilious fever. I am of opinion, that it must be contaminated with 
putrid animal substances when we visited it, for the smell was 
almost insufferable ; and I can account for it no way so well, as 
by supposing that the contaminated water had killed the fishes. 
1 have frequently observed water impregnated with decayed vege- 
table substances to have this effect, and it appeared to me, that 
the water was sufficiently impregnated to have it here. Should 
this be the true solution, a radical cure may be suggested, and 
it is intimately connected with another important subject, that 
of making a good harbour at this place, and of completing the 
communication by water between lake Erie and the Ohio river, 
by a canal. 

It is found that the Cayahoga river can be rendered naviga- 
ble about 50 miles, to where there is a portage ot between seven 
and eight miles to the Tuscarawa river; and the state of Ohio^ 
aware of the importance of this navigation, passed an act to pro- 
vide for its improvement by a lottery ; but a sufficient number of 
the tickets have not been sold ; the lottery is undrawn ; and con- 
sequently nothing has been done. Two of the most discouraging 
circumstances are the want of a harbour, and the sickness at the 
mouth of the river preventing a respectable settlement at Cleve- 
land. The inconvenience arising from the want of a harbetir,. 
will be sufficiently obvious by stating, that a brig which had been 
built in the river lay in it while I was there, and could not be 
got into the lake by reason of the sand-bai*. The sickness I have 
noticed. 

The difficulty might, in my opinion, he obviated by cutting a 
channel for the river, directly through the sand-bar before no- 
ticed, at the foot of the high bank on which Cleveland stands, 
and then runnins" a pier, forming the segment of a circle, along 
the west side of the new cut, so as to shield the river from the 
north-west winds, and prevent it from being choaked up with 
sand. This would secure a free outlet to the river ; and the busi- 
ness could be completed by clearing out the brush and rubbish to 
the head of the navigation. Should these circumstances beattendedto 
and succeed, the result would make Cleveland a very healthy, as it 
certainly is a very beautiful place, and confer a lasting advantage on 



oino. 455 

the state of Ohio. The subject deserves legislative attention, and 
merits the particular notice of those gentlemen who are resi- 
dents, or proprietors of the lands, in the Connecticut reservation. 

The founders of Cleveland have, no doubt, been impressed with 
the belief that it would be a place of great importance, and it has 
been noticed that it is dignified with the title of a city, although it 
contains only 16 dwelling-houses, 2 taverns, 2 stores, and 1 
school. There is a little trade in salt, and sometimes a little in 
flour, pork, and whiskey ; but the whole is trifling, and will con- 
tinue so, until a harbour be formed. Should that be done, it 
may in time command a pretty extensive trade. The country at 
present has no flour nor provisions to spare : they are all taken up 
by the emigrants who yearly pour into it. Wheat was 1 dollar 
per bushel, rye 75 cents, oats 37^, potatatoes 50, flour 7 dollars 
per barrel, beef 3 dollars 50 cents per cwt., mutton and veal S to 
6 cents jx,t lb., pork 5 dollars per cwt., cheese (good Hudson) 10 
cents per lb., butter 121, whiskey, 50 cents per gallon, cyder 7 
dollars per barrel, salt 1 dollar 20 cents per cwt. Fish are veiy 
plenty in the lake, and white fish are put in barrels at 10 dollars 
per barrel; horses sell from 50 to 100 dollars, cows 20 to 25 
dollars, sheep 2 dollars 50 cents. Boarding at a tavern is 3 dol- 
lars per week. 

October 1 9th. This morning I set out, accompanied by Mr. 
Strong, to visit Rocky river, distant about seven miles to the 
westward. We crossed the Cayahoga river by a flat. The land 
to the westward was level, and the road muddy, but the soil is 
pretty good, and is capable of being drained; having a gentle 
slope to the lake. The woods are mostly white oak, chesnut, and 
beech. About three miles from Cleveland, we passed a road 
which led to Columbia, from whence we saw some travellers, and 
they informed us that it had been very sickly this season. We 
saw no settlements all the way to Rocky river, but there is one 
at its outlet, on a high bank, the settlers on which were sicklj'. 
We found a general idea prevailing here, that the whole coun- 
try was sickly between these two rivers. 

Rocky river, like Cayahoga river, has high banks, and its 
mouth is shut up by the north-west winds on the lake, which cause 
the water to stagnate, and, until means be devised to obviate this 
inconvenience, the country, at its outlet, must be unhealtliy. 
There were no settlements along its bank^ upwards, from which we 



456 TRAVELS IN 

could draw a conclusion ; but I should imagime, from its appear- 
ance, that it would be more healthy than Cayahoga river. 

A small vessel had put in here, with a family, bound upward to 
Sandusky bay, to wait a fliir wind; and one of the children was 
taken sick last night, but had got a little better this morning. 

On our return, we met two men on horseback, who told us they 
were settled five miles to the westward of Rocky river, and the 
counti'y there was quite healthy and well settled. One of them 
was from Massachusetts, and said he liked this country much 
better than his native state, chiefly on account of the mild winters. 

The morning had been warm, rather sultry, indeed, with a 
south wind' On our return to Cleveland, I perceived all the signs 
of an approaching storm. About 3 o'clock, the wind shifted to 
the north-west, and a violent gale commenced, accompanied with 
rain, thunder, and lightning. The weather became very cold for 
about half an hour : but the storm spent its force ; the wind regain- 
ed its old position ; and the temperature of the air was restored to 
near its former state. It rained very heavily all the afternooon 
and evening. 

October 20th. On getting up this morning, I found the weather 
very cold. The wind was blowing a gale from the north-west, 
accompanied by rain, and occasionally sleet and snow. The lake 
exhibited all the appearances of the ocean in a storm, and the river 
was so dammed up, that it overflowed its banks. We were inform- 
ed that some of the traders on the lake would be in great jeopai dj-^ 
particularly two vessels that were bound for the port of Cleveland, 
and had been several times in the ofling, without being able lo 
make a landing. It was supposed they would be driven back to 
Buffalo, 200 miles distant, at the east end of the lake. A number 
of mechanics called at the tavern, on their way to Sandusky bay, 
to which there had been a great emigration the two last seasons. 

The detention at Cleveland afforded me an opportunity of con- 
versing with a number of people well acquainted with the Conncc. 
ticut reservation, the lake, the banks of the lake to t!ie westward, 
and Michigan territory. Before I resume the narrative of the 
journey, therefore, I shall devote a couple of chnptcrs to these 
subjects. 



OHIO. 457 

CHAPTER XC. 

Connecticut ReseiDe, — Lake Erie^ — General Information. 

The Connecticut Western Reservation is bounded by 
Lake Erie on the north ; by Steubenville and Canton Districts on 
the south : by Pennsylvania on the east ; and by a Hne drawn 
through the middle of Sandusky bay on the west. It is in lenorth 
about 122 miles, its'average breadth about 45 ; and its area is about 
5349 square miles, or 3,423,360 acres. 

The face of the country is generally level, in some places nearly 
flat, and in others swelling out into gentle hills, of which the great- 
est is the ridge that divides the waters of the lakes from those of 
the Mississippi. To the south of these is a gentle descent towards 
the Ohio, and in the tract to the north, which is by far the great- 
est, there is a similar descent towards Lake Erie. The soil is 
generally loam intermixed with clay, and sometimes with gravel. 
Very little of it can be called the best, but it is nearly all fit for 
cultivation, and it answers well for grazing ; it also raises grain, 
vegetables, and fruit, in abundance. In the state books it stands, 
six per cent, second rate, and 94 per cent, third rate land. There 
are considerable beds of freestone throughout the district, and 
coal and iron are also found, but in no great abundance ; though 
several iron-works are in operation, and it is presumed that a plen- 
tiful supply of both could be found if properly sought for. 

It is most beautifully watered on the north by the lake, and 
there are a number of very useful rivers, of which those that emp- 
ty into the lake will be noticed hereafter. The principal stream 
that runs to the south is Beaver creek, a very important one, 
which drives a great quantity of machinery. The whole district 
is well supplied with springs of good water, and there are several 
salt springs, sulphur springs, and one of a bituminous substance, 
that burns like oil. 

The principal timber is oak, chesnut, beech, maple, walnut, 
hickory, sycamore, and in some places pine ; but the last is not 
common here, and is hardly to be found any where else in the 
state. The climate is temperate, and the seasons are nearly assimi- 
lated to others already noticed in the state ; but there is a circum- 
stance which appears to me to render the country here not so henl- 

58 



45S TKAVELS IN 

thy as tliat farther south. The prevaih'ng winds are from tlie south, 
particularly iti summer and fall, and these, as they blow over the 
high lands of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia, are clear and 
elastic in all the southern part of the state, which is hilly and undu- 
lating. Towards the head wateis of the rivers, however, the 
conntry becomes flat and marshy, in some few places, indeed, 
swampy, and the south winds reach this district loaded with the 
effluvia arising from these marshes and swamps. The effect pro- 
duced is greatest about the Cayahoga river, opposite to which the 
lands at the head waters are most flat ; towards the west they get 
more elevated, and the elevation is greater still to the eastward ; 
and this may in part account for the fever being more common in 
Portage county and Cayahoga county, than any where else in the 
district. But a consolatory remark may be made to the inhabi- 
tants of these districts : the occasional sickness will be but tempo- 
rary, and ncTer very fatal. There are no marshes or swamj)s but 
what may and will be drained, when the country is settled up ; 
and the whole will then be a very fine climate, and a most agreea- 
ble place of residence. 

The claim t)f Connecticut to this territory was founded upon the 
charter of the state, granted by king Charles II. of England, in 
1662; which defined their boundaries to be the line of Massachu- 
sets on the north, Narraganset-bay on the east, and thence 120 
miles broad to the South Sea. This tvas interpreted to be the Pa- 
cific Ocean, and of course included a part of the state of New 
York, a considerable portion of Pennsylvania, and thence along 
the now state of Ohio and the territories to the westward. The 
state of New York resisted the claim, and succeeded. In Pennsyl- 
vania a number of settlements were made under Connecticut titles, 
which occasioned a dis[)Ute, that was i*eferred to congress, and by 
them to commissioners, who reported agaihst the Connecticut 
claim. To the westward Connecticut yielded her claim to the 
United States, with the exception of the territory in question, 
which being accepted by congress, the matter was settled. In 
1793 the legislature granted 500,000 acres of the western part of 
it to indemnify the sufferers by fire during the war, and this tract 
is called the Fire lands. In 1795 they sokl the remainder to Oli- 
ver Phelps and others, for 1,'200,00G dollars; which is appropriat- 
ed to the support of schools within the state. The purchasers of 
the lands nuide a division of the property, and the settlements com- 



OHIO. 459 

nienced a short tliije after, and have been going on pretty rapidly 
since the year 1 799, by emigration from the New England statesj 
principally from the state of Connecticut. The district is now divid- 
ed into six counties, and contains 16,042 inhabitants. The people 
have generally the frugal, industrious habits of the New England 
Btates, and are civil in their manners, and moral in their deport- 
ment. Education is generally attended to, and they seem al^o to be 
religious, although the thin state of society does not admit of many 
churches or clergy. As to civil jurisprudence, the state of Connec- 
ticut seems to have given a tone to it in this district, which has 
probably had considei'ablo influence throughout the state. The 
people of Connecticut have been accused of encouraging a litigious 
disposition, and of being fond of having all their disputes, even the 
most trivial, settled according to law. Here, on the contrary, they 
seem inclined to avoid all law, and all litigation ; and have imbibed 
perhaps an unreasonable aversion to lawyers ; which I have seen 
manifested in some of the newspapers by opprobrious epithets, 
Fuch as " lawyers a begging," and the like. The law is a pro- 
fession open to all, and many bad members of society no doubt 
get into it ; — when they do, they have a superior opportunity of 
committing mischief. But all lawyers are not to be reckoned of thiii 
class, and the profession should not be stigmatized for the improper 
conduct of some of its members. The study of the laws of the 
land is one of the most useful and ornamental professions in society, 
and such lawyers as conscientiously practise it are an honour to 
their country, and to human nature. 

There are as yet but few villages in this district. Warren is the 
chief, and it is but a small place. The houses are mostly of wood 
a great part of them indeed being log houses ; but they will no 
doubt improve with the settlement of tlie country. 

The agriculturalists are mostly occupied in raising supplies for 
the internal consumption of the inhabitants, who manufacture near- 
ly all their own clothing, in their respective families, so that there 
is little commerce: the chief trade is in salt, and a few ornamen- 
tal imported goods. The principal exports are cattle and cheese. 
Hence farmers and mechanics are best adapted to the country, and 
the price of laud is sufiiciently low to invite them into it; beiuo-a- 
bout from two to four dollars per acre, 

Laice Erie is nearly 300 miles long; opposite Cleveland it is 
about 60 miles broaj] ; to the eastward it is above 70 ; — the average 



460 



TRAVELS IN 



breadth is from 50 to 60 miles. Its average depth is from 40 to 
120 feet. The water is pure and wholesome, and abounds with 
fish, such as sturgeon, white-fish, trout, perch, &c. The lake 
does not freeze in the middle, but is frequently frozen on both sides ; 
and sometimes in winter, when the winds are variable, the ice ex- 
hibits a singular phenomenon. A south wind blows all to the Can- 
ada shore, and a north wind again dislodges it and brings it all 
back to the American side. There are a number of islands in the 
west end of the lake, containing from 800 to 2000 acres of land, and 
the soil is said to be generally good. These islands are settling up, 
some of them very rapidly, and are found to be very healthy and 
agreeable places of residence. They are handsome and well wood- 
ed, and some of them afford a good retreat for the vessels on the 
lakes in stormy weather. 

This and the other lakes are navigated by vessels of from 70 to 
80 tons, which carry goods and provisions up the lakes as far as the 
head of Lake Superior, and bring back furs and peltry. The na- 
vigation is good to the head of Lake Superior, except in Lake St. 
Clair, where the water is shallow, and vessels are sometimes oblig- 
ed to lighten. 

The principal ports on the American side are Michilimackinac, 
Detroit, Miami, Sandusky, Cayahoga, Grand River, Presque Isle, 
and Buffalo. On the British side, Maiden, consiting of 100 house?, 
Moyes, Sandwich, and St. Joseph's. 

The Americans have 1 brig, 8 schooners, and 4 sloops; and the 
British 1 brig, 5 schooners, and 2 vessels of war. One of them, 
the Queen Charlotte, was built last summer, in expectation of a 
war, and carries 18 guns. 

These lakes admit of the most extensive inland navigation in the 
world. The stages of it upwards, from hence, may be thus noticed : 
to Sandusky bay 57 miles; thence to Miami bay 45; to Maiden 
45 ; to Detroit 18 ; to Lake St. Clair 1 1 ; through Lake St. Clair - 
40 ; throuo-h Huron river 40 ; through Lake Huron to Michihmac- 
kinac straits 190; thence to Lake Superior 100; and through Lake 
Superior upwards of 300 miles ; being in tliat direction about 836 
miles. Then lake Michigan is navigable, from the straits down- 
wards, 300 miles, and from thence there are two portages, already 
noticed, to the Mississippi river ; after passing which there is a com- 
plete navigation to New Orleans. From this lake there are 4 port- 
ages to the Ohio river, of which one has been noticed ; the others 



OHIO. 461 

are through the Miami of the lakes and Wabash; through San- 
dusky river and the Great Miami ; and from Presque Isle to French 
creek, a branch of the Allegany. The navigation downward is by 
the following stages : to Grand river 30 miles ; thence to Presque 
Isle 70; to Buffalo 100; to Fort Schlosseri'O; from thence the 
iand portage round the falls of Niagara is 10 miles to Lewistown: 
then the navigation is continued to Lake Ontario 7 miles ; through 
that lake to Kingston 170; to Montreal 1 70 ; to Quebec 1 70 ; and 
thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 320 miles; in all 1068 miles, in 
which there is no interruption of any consequence, except the falls 
of Niagara ; and it is impossible to view the subject from hence 
without a regret that this is not removed by such a canal as would 
admit of sloop navigation. From the waters to the eastward there 
-are also several portages ; particularly from Lake Ontario to the 
Hudson, through the medium of the Oneida lake. Wood creek, 
and the Mohawk river ; and from the St. Lawrence river to the 
Hudson, through the medium of Lake Champlain. 

The following information regarding the banks of the lakes and 
rivers to the westward I collected chiefly at this place. Rockj' river 
is navigable about 25 miles, and is one of the prettiest streams that 
falls into Lake Erie. The banks are pretty fertile and healthy. 
From thence to Black' river is 18 miles, and the land on the lake 
shore is prett}' good ; but the road is muddy part of the way. Black 
river is navigable a little way, and its banks are pretty fertile, but 
unhealthy. Thence to Vermilion river the road is good, and this 
river is navigable; but its banks are unhealthy. At Vermilion ri- 
ver the road leaves the lake shore, and crosses Huron river, distant 
13 miles, 3 miles from its outlet. Huron river is navigable a little 
way; its banks are fertile, and are settling up; but the country is 
very unhealthy. From Huron river to Sandusky river, about 25 
miles, the road is low and muddy in many places; but the soil is 
good, and there are many fine meadows or prairies, Sandusky bay 
is the best harbour on the lake ; but the entrance is difficult. San- 
dusky river is navigable, and both its banks and those of the bay 
are settling up very fast ; but the country is unhealthy. From San- 
dusky river to Miami river is about 30 miles, and the road swampy 
nearly two-thirds of the way. On the Miami river there are fine 
prairies, with very high grass, extending a mile on each side. The 
country is uncommonly fertile, and the water is pure and beautiful ; 
but the situation is rather unhealthy. It is, however, settling up 



462 



TRAVELS IN' 



very fast with squatters. The Indian claim is not yet extInguishe<T, 
and no titles to land can be procured. Wheii the territory is pur- 
chased, it is presumed that this will become one of the most exten" 
^ive settlements in the United States. 

About 10 miles from Miami river the road passes the state line» 
and is pretty j^ood to Detroit ; but it crosses a number of rivers with- 
out bridges, and travelling is somewhat difficult. 



CHAPTER XCI. 

Michigmi Territory 

XS bounded by the state of Ohio and Indiana territory on the 
south j by lake Michigan on the west; by the straits of Michili- 
mackinac on the north; and by lakes Huron and St- Clair, and 
the water communication thence to lake Erie, on the east. It ex- 
tends between 41° 50' and 45° 2S' north latitude, and 5° 12' and 
8° 16' west longitude; being 256 miles long, by 154 broad; and 
containing an area of about 34,820 square miles, or 22,284,000 acres. 

In the centre of this territory there is a high table land, from 
whence there is a descent in all directions. The soil is pretty fer- 
tile throughout the territory; but it is only cultivated in the neigh- 
bourhood of the lakes and rivers. There are no rivers of great im- 
portance in the territory. Grand liver is the largest, and extends 
from Lake Michigan, nearly across the territory to lake Erie. 
There are numerous small streams. The country is said to be heal- 
thy, and the climate more mild than its northern situation would 
seem to indicate. The v.inters are wanner at Detroit than at 
Pliiladelpliia, 

This district appears to have been fii'st settled by the French 
from Canada, and the bulk of the inhabitants are of French extrac- 
tion. Detroit is the principal town, and is a large thriving settle- 
ment, consisting of from 300 to 400 houses. There are also hand- 
sorae settlements of French people along the west end of lake Erie, 
particularly on Raisin river; but the territory is not increasing in 
population vei^ fast. By the census of 1800, it contained 3206 in- 
habitants ; by last census, 4762. 

A considerable purchase of land has lately been made from the 
Indians, and four millions of acres in this district are at the dispo- 
sal of the goverment of the United States. 



OHIO. 463 

The settlement of this territory will not, of course, advance ra- 
pidly till those near the old states be filled up ; but such are its na- 
tural advantages for trade, and the salubrity of its climate, that it 
must attract notice, and ultimately have a station of considerable im- 
portance in the union. 

This district, in common with the other territories, is under the 
special controul of congress, who guarantee to the inhabitants a re- 
publican form of government; the safety of their persons and pro- 
perty; the free exercise of religion; the trial by jury; the liberty 
of speech and of the press, and the support of education. Slavery 
is prohibited, and good faith is enjoined with the Indian tribes. 

Congress appoint a governor, a secretary, and three judges for 
the management of the public affairs, until the free male inhabitants 
of full age amount to 5000, when they will be governed by a coun- 
cil of their own choice; and when tiie inhabitants amount to 
60,000 they will be admitted into the union as a state. 



CHAPTER XCII. 

Leave Cleveland^ — Grand river, — Ashtabida river,— Conneought 

river. 

A Mr. Bond, from Massachusetts, whom I met with at Cleve* 
land, agreed to be my travelling companion to Grand river. He 
had to ride a little way off the road, but proposed to join me 
seven miles to the eastward at breakfast. I set out at seven o'clock 
on the morning of the 21st of October, and travelled to the east- 
ward within a fev, miles of the lake. I stopped to breakfast at 
the house of a judge Don, seven miles from Cleveland, The road 
was prett}' good all the way, and passed many creeks by bridges, 
some of them in a very shattered state. The soil was dry and 
rather sandy, but some of it appeared pretty good, though all 
third rate. I saw a settler by the way, who told me he was from 
Connecticut, that he had bought 1000 acres of land here, at 
two dollars per acre, which he meant to give to his sons and to 
go himself 14< miles below the fulls of Ohio, where he owns 500 
acres of land, which he bought at three dollars per acre. He 
likes this country very well, nnd finds it healthy. Judge Do/i* 



^^ TRAVELS IN 

family were busy manufacturing homespun, and appeared to be 
quite healthy. 

My travelling companion did not come forward, and I jogged 
on alone. I travelled about seven miles through a pretty good 
soil and well watered, but the road deplorably bad, and I was 
labouring through the mud, my horse almost up to the knees, 
when I was joined by Mr. Bond ; soon after which the road im- 
proved a little, and so continued for six miles to Chagrin river, where 
we stopped to feed our horses. Here we found a fine farm, and an 
orchard well stocked with fruit-trees. In the house the females 
were busy carding and spinning wool. The Yankees are said to 
be " full of notions," some of them good, some, perhaps, other- 
wise; li ere they had a device for accelerating the motion of the 
spindle, which I found a very good notion, as it saved the young 
female who was spinning about 50 per cent, of the labour of the 
right hand. 

Chagrin river rises about 30 miles south from the lake, and is 
a rapid stream, abounding in mill seats, which are well improved 
by the erection of a great number of mills. It is sometimes very 
large. In a late flood it had carried away the bridge, and we 
had to cross it by a canoe, our horses swimming after us. 

From here to Grand river is 10 miles, and the road keeps with- 
in two or three miles of the lake, all the way. The soil is about 
the best of third rate, and the country pretty thickly settled. To- 
wards the river we travelled through a sandy plain, which the 
proprietors intended for a town or city ; but Nature said *^ no,'* 
and all the settlements are confined to the banks of the river, 
where there is a tavern, a store, an excellent saw and grist mill, 
a fullinjT mill, and a wool-carding machine. 

As we stopped here all night, I went into the store to make 
some inquiries, and found the merchant a young Scotsman, late- 
ly from Utica. He had a pretty full store of goods, but he told 
me, except a few pounds of tea and sugar, he could sell very lit- 
tle, as the people made nearly all their own clothing. 

Grand river is a fine bold stream which rises in the interior of 
the district, not far from Warren, and runs by a circuitous rapid 
course to the lake. It drives a great deal of machinery, and has 
a sort of harbour at its outlet, but is not navigable. Its banks are 
healthy, and in some places fertile. 

I met here widi a Mr. Baird, who was travelling to Buffalo 



OHIO. ^ 465 

with a drove of cattle. Some of them had strayed, and he came 
backinquest of them, leaving the drove to go on with his neighbour. 
I availed myself of his company with pleasure, particularly as he 
told me he would travel along the lake shore, which I had nctt 
seen since I left Cleveland. 

October 26. The morning was clear and cold, with a pretty 
hard frost. We set out at 8 o'clock, and travelled along the west 
side of Grand river to the lake shore, where we crossed by a good 
wooden bi'idge. On reaching the sands we had an elegant view 
of the banks of the lake, as far as the eye could reach. They are 
generally steep, in some places rocky, and rise from 30 to 70 feet 
above the water. The sand is firm and smooth, and constitutes 
a fine road, when passable ; but when a northerly wind blows 
strong, the surf runs often to the very foot of the high banks. This 
day the water was smooth, and the weather clear and beautiful, 
which rendered our ride truly delightful. 

A little beyond Grand river we came to a clearing, and look- 
ing into it, saw a handsome house about 500 yards distant, which 
my fellow-traveller told me was the seat of governor Hunting- 
don. From thence we travelled l^ miles without seeinof a single 
house, when we came to a little clearing, and at a miserable look- 
ing plantation we stopped to feed our horses. Here we were 
told, that during the late storm a boy had been lost in the woods. 
He was about 9 years of age, and had gone out to gather nuts ; 
and wandering a considerable way from home, he was overtaken 
by the storm, during which he made many ineffectual attempts 
to return ; when, overpowered by fatigue, and benumbed with cold, 
he took shelter in a hollow tree, where he was found two days 
after, almost starved to death, and one of his thighs most dread- 
fully lacerated by the quills of a porcupine. He was alive when 
we were there, and hopes were entertained of his recovery. 

We resumed our journey along the banks of this beautiful lake, 
and passing many small runs, we arrived, towards night, at Ash- 
tabula river, the mouth of which was very deep, and a stranger 
could not have passed it in safety ; but my fellow-traveller, being 
well acquainted with it, took a circuitous course by the bar, which 
led us 100 or 150 yards into the lake, and we got over in safety, 
though our horses were at one time very near swimming. 

The timber on the banks of the lake was mostly white oak 

59 



466 TRAVELS IN 

and hickory, and the price of land, which is mostly good third 
tate, is about 1 to 3 dollars per acre. 

We rode up the ea^t bank of Ashtabula river, about a quarter 
of a mile, and st6pped for the night at the house of squire Leet. 

A township court was held at the house of the squire, at which 
a good many of the inhabitants were assembled, which gave us 
an opportunity of seeing a little of the manners of the people in 
New Connecticut, and the mode of dispensing justice. 

A young man had been convicted of injuring his neighbour's 
property', and the award of tiie court had not yet been complied 
with. He was now accused of poisoning a horse. While the ex- 
amination was going on, he ran ofF, but was overtaken and l)rought 
back. The proceedings were conducted in a very orderly man- 
ner, and after the examination of the witnesses there vrerc pretty 
eloquent pleadings, on the one side by a young lawyer, recently 
from Connecticut; on the other, by a brick-maker. The court 
v/as then cleared, and the S(juire called in the assistance of two 
of his neighbours, to make up the award. It way found that the 
charge of poisoning the horse was not proven, but the young man 
was ordered to be kept in custody until the former award should 
be satisfied. 

The greater part of the peo})le remained at the house of the 
justice all night, and, as several of them had their wives and 
daughters along with them, we had a numerous company, and 
spent a very convivial evening. My fellow-traveller was acquaint- 
ed in the family, and they v»'ere acquainted with his vocal pow- 
ers. He sang an excellent scmg, but like other good singers, he 
was unwilling to n:iake a display, and it was not till after a good 
deal of pressing from the latlies, that he would open the concert. 
He soon made ample amends for the delay, however. He 
sung a number of elegant songs, and having elevated the spirits 
of the compau}', we had songs and stories in abundance, till a 
pretty late hour. I was called upon, of course ; but, as hereto- 
fore, 1 could tlo nothing except in Scottish song*, and I was 
doubtful how they would answer on the banks of lake Erie. How- 
ever, I soon found that this Mas one of the most acceptable treats 
I could give the company. They were, in fact, entlui:>iastic ad- 
mirers of Scottish music ; Burns' songs were highly reiibhed, and 



OHIO. 467 

one of the company anticipated me by singing mj' favourite song 
of Muirland Willie.* 

October 23d. On getting up this morning, we found that the 
prisoner had again eluded the vigilance of justice, and fled. We 
got a very excellent breakfast, and stai'ting at 8 o'clock, we 

* The estimation in which Scottish music is lield, wherever it is known, is a convin- 
cing proof of its intrinsic merit. It is full of sensibility, and finds its way directly 
to the chords of the human heart ; and it has spread the mantle of its charms so ef- 
fectually over the Scottish language, that it has extended far and wide, and is now 
in such a state of conversation, that it will probably endure to the remotest ages. In- 
deed, to a native of Scotland, tlie language and the music are so associated together, 
that they cannot be separated. Barns, the prince of poets, was so sensible of this, 
that in promising his a^^iLstance to Thomson's elegant collection, he says, "apropos! 
if you are for English verses, tliere is, on my pai-t, an end of the matter. Whether 
ia the simplicity of the ballad, or the pathos of the song, I can only hope to please 
myself in being allowed at least a sprinkling of our native tongue." This sprinkling 
was freely allowed : a most transcendeat beam of light was shed abroad upon Scottish 
music and poatry ; and we are almost lost with wonder, at contemplating the as- 
tonishing power, yet sweet simplicity, of this wonderful poet, displayed in all the va- 
rious forms of the gay, the humorous, the patriotic, and the pathetic. The name of 
Burns must endure for ever ; and along with it will be transmitted to posterity such 
songs as Bonny Leslie, Duncan Gray, Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled, and High- 
land Ptiary. 

Burns, indeed, was quite an enthusiast on the subject of songs, in which he could 
roam in a flowery iield, and one quite suited to his fancy ; and to this field Mr. Thom- 
son has done ample justice, by tra:isplanting a number of the finest flowers into his 
work, which I consider as the flower-garden of Scottish Songs. Among others, he 
has adopted the very old, humorous, historical song of Muirland Willie; and the cir- 
cumstance of meeting with it on the banks of lake Erie, was to me so novel and un- 
expected, that I am induced to insert it at this place. It is one of the oldest Scot- 
tish songs extant, and presents a very good picture of the primitive manners of tliat 
country. 

MUIRLAND WILLIE. 

O HEARKEN, and I will tell ye how Wi' meikle mirth and glee. 

Young muirland AVillie came to woo, Out o'er yon moss, out o'er yon moor, 

Tho' he could neither say nor do ; Till he came to her daddy's door. 
The truth I tell to ye. With a fal de ral, &c." 

*Btit ay he cried, Wliate'er betide, 

Maggy I'll hae her to be my bride, " Gxxklman," quo he, " be ye within? 

With a fal de ral al, fal al de ral, ful al de ^'"^ «""^ >''''^ dochter's love to win : 

ral al de ral i. ^ ^"'"'^ "^ ^""^ '"''^''"^ >"'^'''^^ '^"^ 

What answer gioyeme?" 

On his gray yad as he did ride, " Now, wooer," quo he, " wad ye light down.. 

Wi' dirk and pistol by his side, I'll gie ye my dochter's love to win, 

lie pricked on wi' uieikle pride. With a fal de ral, &c. 



468 



TRAVELS IN 



pursued our journey along the banks of the luke; but it was not so 
pleasant as yesterday. There was a considerable swell from the north- 
west, and the noise of the waves was disagreeable, while in some 
places we had to ride a considerable way through the water. A num- 
ber of fishes had been blown ashore during the late gale, and we saw 
the tracks of a great number of bears, foxes, deer, and squirrels, a- 
long the sands. The land along the banks was nearly the same as 
that we passed yesterday : but, in addition to the timber, we saw a 



"Now, wooer, sin' ye're lighted down, 
Whar d'ye win, or in what town ? 
I think my dochter winna gloom 

On sic a lad as ye." 
The wooer he stepped up the house, 
And wow but he was wondrous crouse, 

With a fal de ral, &c. 

♦ I hae three owsen in a pleugh, 
Twa gude gaen yads, an' gear enough, 
My place they ca' it Cauld-enough, 

I scorn to tell a lie ; 
Besides I had frae the great laird, 
A peat pat, and a lang kail yard. 
With a fal de ral, cS:c." 

The maid put on her kirtle brown. 
She was the brawest in a' the town, 
I wat on him she did na' gloom, 

But blinket bonnily. 
The lover he stepped up in haste. 
And grippether hard about the waist, 

With a fal de ral, &c. 



" Your dochter wad na say me na, 
But to oursels she's left it a', 
As we can gree between us twa : 
Say, what' 11 gie me wi' her ?" 
" Now, wooer," quo' he, " I hae na meikle, 
Butsic's I hae ye'st get a pickle, 
With a fal de ral, &c. 

" A kiln fu' o' corn I'll gie to thee, 
Three soums o' sheep, twa gude milk kye, 
Ye'se get the wedding dinner free. 

Troth I dow do nae mair." 
" Content, quo' Willie, " a bargain be't, 
I'm far frae hame, mak haste, let's do't," 

With a fal de ral, &c. 

Tlie brithal day it came to pass, 
Wi' mony a blythesome lad and lass. 
But siccan a day there never was, 

Sic mirth was never seen. 
The winsome couple straked hands. 
Mess John tied up the marriage bands, 

With a fal de ral, &c. 



«' To win yc'r love, maid, I'm come here. And our bride's maiden? war na few, 

I'm young, and hae enough o' gear, WI' tap-knots, lug-knots, a' in blue, 

An' for mysel ye need na fear, Frae tap to tae they were bran new, 
Troth, try me whan ye like." And blinket bonnily. 

He teuk aff his bannet, and spat in his chow, Their toys and mutches war sae clean. 

And dighted hia gab, and pried her mou, They glanced into our ladies een. 
With a fal de ral, &c. With a fal de ral, &c. 



The maiden blushed, an' bing'd fu' law, 
She hnd na' will to say him na. 
But to her daddy she left it a'. 

As they twa could agree. 
The lover he gae her the tither kiss, 
Syne ran to her daddy, an' tald him this, 

With a fal de ral, &c. 



Sic hirdum, dirdum, an' sic din, 
Wi' he o'er her and she o'er him, 
Tlie minstrels they did never blin, 

AV'i' meikle mirth and glee. 
An' ay they bobbit, an' ay they beck't. 
An' ay they cleek't, an' cross't, an' set, 

With a fal de ral, &c. 



OHIO. 469 

good deal of hemlock. The banks of the lake were entirely desti- 
tute of settlements, at which I was much surprised ; but I learned 
that the proprietors had kept it up on speculation, expecting a very 
high price for it after the other parts of the country are settled. If 
this be the case, I fear they have miscalculated. The want of set- 
tlements along the lake shore, which is the most prominent part of 
the district, is calculated to impress settlers with an unfavourable 
idea of the country; and where the settlements are few, the road is 
bad, another disagreeable circumstance to settlers, and which has 
considerably retarded the settlement of the interior of the districtw 

Indeed, I think it is a pity that the Connecticut reserve was made 
the subject of iudividual speculation at all. The state of Connecti- 
cut could have held it without embarrassment, and sold it out to set- 
tlers as there was a demand for it, thereby affording a superior ac- 
commodation to the public, and probably increasing the state funds 
by availing themselves of the rise that would have taken plate in the 
course of settlement. The state, too, having much greater power than 
individuals, and having but one interest, could have adopted the most 
efficacious measures to render the country healthy, by improving 
the outlets of rivers, draining swamps, &c. ; and they might have 
had the whole country, particularly the shores of the lake, in a very 
elegant state by this time. I cannot leave this subject without in- 
dulging in a speculation as to what the banks of this elegant lake 
might have been, and probably would have been, under judicious 
management. The Connecticut reserve stretches along the lake 
about 1 60 miles. It is all arable, and a good dry road could have 
been run along the shore the whole way. If the banks had been 
laid out in farms having a quarter of a mile in front, and one mile 
deep, they would have amounted to 600; and, allowing 10 persons 
to each, the lake shore alone would have contained 6000 inhabit- 
ants, being nearly equal to all the inhabitants in the district, with 
the exception of Trumbull county, no part of which is on the lake. 

About 15 miles from Ashtabula river, we crossed Conneoffht ri- 
ver, by a wooden bridge, close to the lake shore, where we observ- 
ed several settlements; and a mile and a half from thence we en- 
tered into the state of Pennsylvania. 

Conneoght i-iver is a pretty little stream, rising near the head 
waters of French creek. It drives a number of mills, and there are 
some iron-works upon it. 

Ashtabula river is a pretty large stream, which drives a number 
of mills, and Las some pretty rich lands on its banks. 



470 



OHIO. 



CHAPTER XCIII. 

STATE OF OHIO. 

J. FIAVE already been so copious in my femarks on the respec- 
tive districts of this interesting state, that little now remains but to 
give in this chapter a general summary. 

It is bounded on the north by Lake Erie and Michigan territory; 
on the south and south-cast by the Oliio river ; on the east by Penn- 
sylvania ; and on the west by the Indiana territory. It extends 
from north latitude 38° 30' to 39° 57', and from 3° 25' to 7° 37' 
west longitude. Its length is 223 miles, and its breadth 227 ; its 
square contents about 43,860 miles, or 28,070,400 acres. 

The face of the country has been noticed in the several districts, 
except to the north-west, where the Indian claim is not yet extin- 
guished ; and this is a large tract, occupying nearly one-fourth of 
the whole state. That part of it which borders upon the lakes has 
been noticed. It appears to be generally level, or ratlrer an undu- 
lating country, abounding with plains, and the soil is mostly good. 
The Miami of the lakes runs through the northern part of it, and 
appears to be a very interesting river, with rich banks. It rises in 
the Indiana territory a little beyond the state line, where there is a 
portage of 8 miles only to the Wabash. It continues a north-east 
course to Fort Defiance, where it is joined by the Au Glaise. river, 
a considerable stream from the southward, which rises pear the head 
of the Great Miami. From Fort Miami the river runs a north- 
cast course of 60 miles, when it falls into Lake Erie, through Mi- 
ami bay. The bay extends about 12 miles into the interior of the 
country ; is from half a mile to 3 miles wide, and deep enough for 
vessels of 30 or 40 tons. The river is navigable for long boats raox'e 
than 100 miles. The Sandusky river and bay have been already 
noticed; but it may be added here that the river rises in this dis- 
trict, near the head of Whetstone river, about 60 miles from the 
lake, and passes through a tract of excellent country, gliding with 
a rapid course over a bed of limestone so interrupted with rocks 
and rapids as to render the navigation impracticable, except a very 
little way from the bay. 

It may be said, in general, of the whole state, that it has a good 
soil, a good climate, is well watered, and abounds with excellent 
timber and minerals. 



OHIO. 471 

Having these great natural advantages, it soon attracted general 
attention, and began to settle under certain grants, wiiich have been 
already noticed, from 20 to 25 years ago ; but at the census of] SCO 
it contained only 45,365 inhabitants, and remained under the ter- 
ritorial form of government until the year 1802, when having the 
number of inhabitants required by law, 60,000, it was admitte"^] in- 
to the union as a state. It now contains, by the last census, 230,760' 
inhabitants ; and such is the rapid steps by whicli the population is 
going on, that it will probably contain 600,000 in 10 years hence- 
and, ultimately, it will probably support a greater number of in- 
habitants than any of the old states, New York, perhaps, excepted. 
As the settlement of this state is a remarkable feature in political 
economy, I shall here insert a statistical table of the several districts 
and counties, with the population by the last census. 



472 OHIO. 

STATISTICAL TABLE OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



Those counties where the population is not filled up, have been laid off 
since the census was taken. 

Those counties marked *, are prhicipally situated in the district oppo- 
site to them, but part is in another district. 











Persons of 




Districts. 


Counties. 


Males. 


Females. 


colour not 
Indians. 


Total. 


Connecticut Reserve 


Ashtabula 












Geauga 


1564 


1350 


3 


2917 




Cayahoga 


798 


647 


14 


1459 




Huron 












Portage 


1612 


1376 


7 


2y95 




Trumbull 


4590 


4026 


55 


8671 


Canton 


Richland 
Wayne 










Steubenville 


Columbiana 


5529 


5250 


99 


10878 




* Stark 


1462 


1265 


7 


2734 




Jeiferson 


8778 


8358 


124 


17260 


Marietta 


* Belmont 


5721 


5288 


88 


11097 


Zanesville 


*Tuscarawa 
Coshocton 


1582 


1457 


6 


3045 




* Guernsey 


16IS 


1428 


7 


3051 




Muskmgum 


5505 


4656 


75 


10036 




* Washington 


3112 


2831 


48 


5991 


Ohio Company 


'Athens 


1465 


1324 


4 


2791 




* Gallia 


2175 


1991 


15 


4181 


Chillicothe 


*Knox 


1145 


992 


12 


2129 




* Delaware 


1033 


923 


44 


2000 




*Licking 


2048 


1796 


8 


3852 




* Franklin 


1796 


1647 


43 


3486 




Fairfield 


5928 


5398 


35 


11361 




♦Pickaway 


3726 


3329 


69 


7124 




*Ross 


7950 


7194 


370 


15514 




* Scioto 


1792 


1578 


29 


3399 


Virginia Military 


Madison 


876 


714 


13 


1605 




Fayette 


974 


876 


4 


1854 




* Greene 


3039 


2795 


36 


5870 




Clinton 


1316 


1349 


9 


2674 




* Warren 


5152 


4684 


89 


9925 




Highland 


3044 


2596 


126 


5766 




Adams 


4825 


4588 


21 


9436 




Clermont 


4981 


4947 


37 


9965 


Symmes' Purchase 


•Hamilton 


7886 


7214 


158 


15258 


Cincinnati 


* Champaign 


3302 


2936 


65 


6303 




Miami 


2047 


1873 


21 


3j41 




Clark 












Montgomery 


1031 


3637 


54 


7722 




Preble 


1714 


1565 


25 


3304 




* Butler 


5745 


5326 


79 


11150 


119657 


109204 


1899 


230760 



OHIO. 473 

Of these there are, 

Under 10 years of age, 
Of 10, and under 16, 
Of 16, and under 26, 
Of 26, and under 45, 
Of 45, and upwards, 



Males. 


Females. 


46,623 


44,192 


1§,1]9 


16,869 


20,189 


19,990 


22,761 


19,436 


11,965 


8,717 


119,657 


109,204 




^40fOO I 


Indians, 


1,899 




230,760 



People of colour, excludinn^ Indians, 



From a view of this population, taken in connection with that 
of the United States,* several important conclusions may be 
drawn : 

In the first place, it appears that more males are born in the 
United States than females. The difference between the males 
and females under 10 years of age in this state is 2431, beino- up- 
wards of 1 in 19; and in the United States it is 53,852, being 
nearly in the same proportion. This seems to be a wise ren-ulation 
of Providence, to provide for the drain that afterwards takes place 
in the male world, for the defence of the country, for the pro- 
secution of foreign commerce, for travelling into distant coun- 
tries, and for settling up distant districts. 

From 10 to 16, this drain begins to take place, and the equili- 
brium begins to be restored. It is not felt in this state, for obvi- 
ous reasons ; but, in the United States, the difference is little more 
than 1 in 24. 

From 16 to 26, the effect is very apparent. In this s(.,to, (Iio 
equilibrium is restored witl>'n 199; and in the United States, the 
females are more than tte males by 14,071, being nearly 1 in U). 
Above 26, the males outnumber the females, both in tlie Unit- 
ed States and in this state. In the United States, the dilltrence 
is nearly I in 17; and in this state it is more remarkable, hclmy 
nearly 1 in 5. On looking over the census of the Unitfxl States 
a curious fact appears: this great disproportion in the state of 

• Ese the table in the chapter titled United States. 

60 



474 OHIO. 

Ohio has actually a counterbalance in that part of New England 
comprehending New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, 
and Connecticut. In these four states, the females of 26 
and upwards outnumber the males by 16,953 ; being, in the ag- 
gregate, equal to 1 in 11. In New Hampshire, it is about 1 in 
17; in Massachusetts, 1 in 11; in Rhode Island, 1 in 8 ; and in 
Connecticut, 1 in 10. This result, so different from all the other 
states, corroborates the well-known fact, that the great influx of 
population into this slate has been from these states; and this and 
other circumstances show thrt they are, in fact, the great nur- 
sery from whence the northern part of the v/estern world is to be 
peopled. This reflection really inspires the mind with delightful 
sensations, in reviewing this elegant country. The mass of the 
New England people get a virtuous education ; they are generally 
handsome in their persons, active, Iiard\', and industrious ; and it 
is the very flower of them who emigrate. The mind that con- 
ceives a settlement in a distant country must be possessed of inde- 
])endence ; the spirit that executes an overland journey of five or 
six weeks, in search of independence, luust be ennobled by the 
Great Spirit; and his blessing on their virtuous exertions is their 
reward. Having seen and admired these exertions, they have 
every good wish of mine in their favour. 1 will only suggest to 
the males to take a greater portion of the " blooming Yankee 
girls" along with them, and not suffer nearly 17,000 of them to 
pine away as old maids in their own country, when it is seen 
they are so much wanted in this. 

The improvements in tliis state generally have kept pace v/ith 
the spirit and industry of the people, as will be seen by the notice 
that has been taken of many of the towns, farm-houses, manufac- 
tories, roads, bridges, &c. ; and it may be useful to insert the 
principal towns in the respective districts, in a geographical ar- 
rangement, so as to give a connected vkw of the whole. 

Districts. CJiiif Tcixns. 

Connecticut Reserve, Warren. 

ISteubenville District, Canton, New Lisbon, Steuben- 

ville, St. Clairsville. 
Zunesville District,- New Philadelphia, Coshocton, 

Zanesvillc. 
Marietta District, Marietta. 

Ohio Company's Pcirchase, Athens, Galliopolis. 



OHIO. 475 

Chillicothe District, Newark, Worthington, New ^ 

Lancaster. 
A^irsinia Militatary Lands, Franklinton, Chillicothe, Zenia, 

West Union, Williamsburg. 
Symmes' Purchase, Lebanon, Deerfield, Hamilton, 

Cincinnati. 
Cincinnati District, Dayton. 

Besides these, there is a vast number of small villages, mostly 
all increasing; and the view of the buildings in the towns, villages, 
and farm-houses show the progress of industry, of wealth, and of 
public taslc. The first buildings are mostly temporary log huts. 
These give way to frame houses ; and, in many districts of this 
country, the number of elegant brick and stone buildings is really 
surprizing. 

Three per cent, of all the m.oney arising from the sale of lands 
by the United States is appropriated to the making of roads, and 
this fund has been greatly supported by the state legislature, in 
which the respective counties have actively co-operated, so that 
the whole state is checquered with roads in all directions. Many 
of them are not very good; but, making allowance tor the newness 
of the country, this important branch has been supported with 
laudable attention. Bridges are numerous, but they are mostly 
temporary. Canals are no|; wanted, except at some few portages 
already noticed ; and they will, no doubt, be cut as soon as there 
is sufticieat intercourse to support them. 

The great business of the state is agriculture, aided by such 
branches of mechanism as tend to suppoit that important branch, 
and such manufactures as are a^iailaled ior the state of society; 
together with teachers, Joctors, and lawyers, of which the former 
are most wanted, and have the best chance of success. They will 
require, ho^vever, to be men of plain good sense, having a stock 
of useful information, and a happy facility for communicating it 
to the rising generation. Ornamental education, and especially 
that tinselled kind of it which may be called the ghost of orna- 
ment, is not wanted here, for the people are plain practical folks, 
having a turn for examination, and for looking into the inside of 
things; and it is only such as appear to confer some substantial ad- 
vantage, that they will be willing to pay for. In support of edu- 
cation, there is a more ample fund provided than in any other 
country in the world; consisting of no less than one-thirty-sixth 



476 ^ OHIO. 

part of the whole lands in the state. These school-lands are dif- 
ferently situated in different districts. In the United States army- 
lands and Connecticut reserve, the school-lands are interspersed 
throughout the distiicts in tracts of from 4000 to 1 6,000 acres, so 
as to form one- thirty-sixth of the whole. In the Virginia military 
lands one-thiity-sixth part of the district is to be selected by the 
legislature of the state, after the Virginia land-warrants are satis- 
fied. In all the other districts one-thirty-sixth part of each township 
is appropriated, being uniformly the sixteenth section, which lies 
near the centre. Of all the arrangements, I consider this the 
best, because it places the public property of the township under 
the immediate direction and management of those interested in it ; 
so that more benefit will doubtless result from it, than any of the 
others. In process of time, the effect of these appropriations will 
be salutary beyond what we can at present, perhaps, form an 
idea of. Let this simple arrangement be contrasted with what 
some of the enlighted governments of Europe have done to en- 
lighten the human mind, and then say whether the people are not 
fit to govern themselves, or whether " they ar« their own worst 
friends," when they attempt it. 

The whole of this territory belonged to the United States, and, 
during the territorial government, they made several important 
regulations which deserve to be noticed. First, the legislature 
were prohibited by the United States from interfering with the 
disposal of the soil, or any regulations that congress might find 
necessary to make for securing the titles to the purchasers. Se- 
cond, no tax could be imposed on lands, the property of the 
United States ; and in no case could non-resident proprietors be 
taxed higher than residents. Third, t\»c navigable waters lead- 
ing into the Mississippi and St. Laurence, and iKo carrying-places 
between them, are to be common highways, and lor cvor free, as 
well to the inhabitants of the said territory as to the inhabitants of 
the United States, and those of any other states that may be ad- 
mitted into the confederacy, without any tax. These several laws 
were continued in force, and at passing the act for admitting the 
state of Ohio into the union, it was agreed to grant to the state 
the section No. 16, in each township, for school-lands; the six 
mile square reservation, including the salt-springs on the Scioto ; 
the salt-springs near the Muskingum, and those in the military 
tract, with the sections that include the same ; and the aforesaid 



OHIO. 477 

fund for making and supporting roads ; it being understood that 
all purchases of land from the United States, should be exempt- 
ed from the state tax till five years after the purchase is made. 

It was also enacted by congress, that there should neither be 
slavery nor involuntary servitude in the territory, and tiie lands 
being sold, and the country originally settled under that regula- 
tion, it is supposed by some that the state legislature could not 
now pass a law to admit slaves. Others think they have full 
power. But the discussion of this point is of no consequence, as 
slavery is expressly prohibited by the state constitution ; and, wex'e 
the case submitted to the people, I have no- doubt but more than 
nine-tenths of them would be against slavery. 

I have already noticed that the genius of the people mav, m 
part, be inferred from the state constitutions. If so, the people of 
this state have clear heads, and a correct view of j)olitical princi- 
ples. The constitution of the state of Ohio is probably the most 
complete state constitution in the union; but it is to be remarked 
that the framers of it liad the experience of 16 states before them. 
Like the constitutions of the most of tiie states, it is founded u[)on 
general principles, and declares that 

All men are born equally free and independent. 

All men have a natural right to worship God according to the 
dictates of their own consciences. 

Trial by jury shall be inviolate. 

Printing-presses shall be free; 

Unwarrantable searches shall not be permitted. 

Unnecessary rigor shall not be exercised. 

Excessive bail shall not be required in bailable offences. 

All penalties shall be proportioned to the nature of the offence. 

The liberty of the people to assemble together to consult for the 
public good, and to bear arms in their own defence, is guaran- 
teed. 

Hereditary emoluments, privileges, and honours, are for ever 
prohibited. 

Slavery is for ever prohibited, and it is declared that " no in- 
denture of any negro or mulatto hereafter made and executed 
out of the state, or, if made in the state, where the term of ser- 
vice exceeds one year, shall be of the least validity, except those 
given in the case of apprenticeship." 



478 ouio, 

** Religion, moralit}', and knowledge, being essentially neces* 
sary to the good government and happiness ot" mankind, schools 
and the means of instruction shall for ever be encoura^^ed by ieo^is- 
lative provision, not inconsistent with the rights oi' conscience." 

The government is legislative and executive, with power to 
provide for, and regulate the judicial and military authority. 

The legislature consists of two branches; a senate and house of 
representatives. The rcpresenfativcs must not exceed 72 members, 
and are chosen annually by the people, in which every free white 
male who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided a year 
in the state, and paid taxes, shall have a vote. The representatives 
must have the same qualifications, and be 25 years of age. 

The senators are chosen biennially by qualified voters for repre- 
sentatives, and one half vacate their seats every year. They shall 
never be less than one-third nor more than one-half of the repre- 
sentatives. They must, besides the other qualifications of the re- 
presentatives, have resiiled two years in the country, and be 30 years 
of age. 

The governor is chosen by the electors for the members of the 
general assembly for the term of two years, and is not eligible for 
more than six years in eight. He must be 30 years of age, and have 
been a citizen of the United States 12 years, and an inhabitant of 
the state four years. 

The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, in courts of 
common pleas for each county, in justices of the peace, and such o- 
ther courts as the legislature may appoint. 

The supreme court consistsof three judges, appointed by the as- 
sembly, who hold their offices for seven years. 

The courts of common pleas consist of a president and associate 
judges, chosen in like manner, and for the like term. 

A justice court is held in each township, and the justices are e- 
lected by the inhabitants of the respective towns ; and continue in 
office three years. The powers and duties of the justices are from 
time to time regulated anil defined by law. I may notice that this 
last regulation is a peculiar feature in the local jurisprudence of the 
state, and goes far to do away all petty litigation. 

The justices originally had cognizance of all cases where the sums 
did not exceed 30 dollars. By an act of the legislature their pow- 
ers were extended to cases not exceeding 50 dollars ; which gave 
rise to a very singular tran.saction in the state. The judges of the 



otiio. 479 

supreme court refused to put the law in execution, alleging that it 
was contrary to the constitution of the United States. They were 
impeached by the house of representatives; but it requires two- 
thirds of the senate to convict, and they were saved by a very nar- 
row majority. The legislature, to mark their disapprobation of the 
conduct of the judges, raised the sum from 50 to 70 dollars ; and 
when the seven years for which they were ap})ointed expired, they 
were not re-elected. The justice courts have now cognizance of all 
cases where the sums do not exceed 70 dollars. 

In the military department the captains and subalterns of the mi- 
litia are chosen by those persons in their respective company dis- 
tricts subject to military duty. 

Majors are elected by captains and subalterns. 

Colonels are elected by majors, captains and subalterns. 

Brigadier-generals are elected by the commissioned officers of 
their respective brigades. 

Miy or- generals and quarter- master generals are appointed bj 
}6int ballot of both houses of the legislature. 

The Governor is the commander in chief, and appoints the 
adjutants. 

It is proper to remark that the legislature of this state has been 
careful to enact several laws to curb irregularities, and to enforce 
the practice ot virtue; and they have had a very salutary effect. 
In travelling through the state I noticed the peaceable deportment 
of the inhabitants, and was somewhat surprised that I heard no 
sweai-ing- It is prohibited by law, at the rate of a dollar for an oath ; 
and the law is strictly put in execution. Illegitimate commerce be- 
tween the sexes is also prohibited, under pretty heavy penalties; and 
a law has lately been enacted to enforce the marriage covenant, in 
cases where people are disposed to plead a disannullmcnt on the 
score of religion.* Upon the whole, the state of Ohio promises 
fair to become one of the brightest in the union, in point of internal 
prosperity and a virtuous population. 

* A singular religious sect made its appearance in tliis country some lime ago, called 
Shakers. One of tlieir regulations is that none of their members are to marry ; and 
tliose who are married when they join thein, they consider free from tlie marriage obli- 
gation. They are reputed to be a sober industrious people, in general ; but the absurd- 
ity of this regulation is self-evident, \Verc such a practice to become general, the glebe 
would soon be depopulated. But tlie ties of affection between the se\es are too deeply 
seated in our nature by the God of Nature to be rooted out hj this or any other sect. 
Strange us it aiav appear, however, a nuniber of people liave dvsertcd thtir families W 



480 



TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER XCIV. 

Pennsylvan ia, — Erie. 

J. HE banks of the lake in Pennsylvania exhibited nearly the same 
appearance as those to the westward ; but we noticed that many 
settlements had been made, and the country was generally more e- 
levated. The wind was from the north-west, and the effect was ve- 
ry different from that of north-west winds to the east of the moun- 
tains. It was here cloudy and mild. 

We continued along the shore without any interruption, for se- 
ven miles, when we came to Elk creek ; and here we were obliged 
to ride a considerable way through the woods to get across the 
creek by a bridge. In the course of our ride we saw a number of 
settlements that had been abandoned, and were informed that it 
was in consequence of a difficulty about the land-titles, which had 
operated very much against the settlement of this part of Pennsyl- 
vania. We travelled along the lake shore, eight miles, to Walnut 
creek, where we stopped to feed our hoises at some good mills, and 
found the country here healthy and agreeable. 

At Walnut creek we left the lake shore, and travelled through a 
pretty good soil, the woods very thick, and abounding with large 
trees of hemlock. Towards dark we reached a fine turnpike road, 
leading from Erie to French creek, and travelling along it two miles, 
we reached Erie, 1 1 miles from Walnut creek, at 7 o'clock. 

Erie is situated in latitude 42° 8', on a high bank on the south 
side of the lake, opposite to a small peninsula which extends a con- 
siderable way into the lake, and forms a natural basin for a har- 
bour ; but the entrance is choakcd up by a sand-bar, and vessels 
have to lie on the outside exposed lo the weather. 

The town is regularly laid out, in a beautiful and healthy situa- 
tion, but it is not increasing. It contains about 76 houses, mostly 
built of wood, but several of them are uninhabited. The number 
of inhabitants is 395. The public buildings are, a court-house, 

join them; and as it was requisite to put all their money into the common stock of the 
society, their families were left destitute, and became a burden upon the public. The 
state very judiciously enacted that when any man joins such a society, the wife Bhnll be 
entitled to all the property ; and should that not be sufficient to maintain the family, he 
is bouiid to find security that they will be provided for without bcccming a burden on the 
state. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 481 

jail, and school. There are tliree taverns, and three stores ; and a 
number of tradesmen are employed ; but the place appears dull. 
Until of late, the town was supported by the salt trade; but that 
has very much declined, in consequence of so much of the lowei 
country being now supplied from the Kanhaway works. 

The soil is pi-etty good in the neighbourhood of the town, but 
the difficulty about land-titles has extended to this place, and 
greatly retarded the progress of settlement, and the prosperity of 
the country. Provisions are not so plenty nor so cheap as in some 
other places of the western country; flour is 6 dollars per barrel, 
beef 4< dollars 50 cents per cwt., bacon ]2i cents per pound ; fish 
are very plenty, and of an excellent quality. 

The seasons here are rather cold. Winter commences about the 
1st of December, and continues to the 1st of April, souietimes in- 
tensely cold, with a continued frost for three months. The spring, 
summer, and fall are very pleasant. 

Land in the neighbourhood, where the title is good, sells for 
from 5 to 10 dollars; labourers have 75 cents per day, carpenters 1 
dollar, masons 1 dollar 50 cents. There is no opening for manu- 
factures except carding machines. 

The country is well adapted for grazing ; sheep thrive very well, 
and potatoes are the best I have seen in America. 

This place is about 100 miles from Pittsburg, and there is a wa- 
ter conveyance all the way except 14 miles, over which there is 
now an excellent turnpike road ; and it has been in contemplation 
to dig a canal. It is quite practicable, at least from the town of 
Erie to French creek; but the bank of the lake is too high and 
steep to allow a hope to be encouraged that the waters can be con- 
nected for a long time to come. It is remarked b}^ the inhabitants 
here, that the lake has fallen tiiree feet since the hrst settlement of 
Erie, and there is not now more than six feet water on the bar. It 
is presumed that 2000 dollars would make it sufficiently deep to ad- 
mit the traders on the lake. 

Mr. Baird, my agreeable travelling companion, came up with 
his drove of cattle here, and we parted. He told me that the peo- 
ple along the banks of the lake would always have a fine market 
for their surplus stock to the eastward, and that there would be 
plenty of i)eople always ready to buy. The price at present is 25 
dollars for cattle, measuring six feet round the belly, and 1 dollar 
B added or deducted for every inch over or under that measure. 

CA 



482 TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER XCV. 

Leave Erie, — Cataragns creel:, — Buffalo. 

V 9 HILE I remained at Erie, a vessel came in from Buffalo, 
Avliicli was to sail again in a short time. I had some thoughts of 
taking a passage by it ; but reflecting on the uncertainty of water 
conveyance, I gave up the idea, and determined to go on land. 

1 accordingly set out at 12 o'clock on the 25th of October, and 
travelled 4-^ miles, wiien I passed a pretty clear stream running 
over a stratum of slate. Near this place I noticed the dreadful ef- 
fects produced by a tornado. A piece of ground about half a mile 
broad, and of a length that I could not perceive, had its timber, 
some of it very large, completely blown down, and appeared like 
a large avenue. I passed over a number of pretty little streams, 
the water generally clear, with a slate bottom, and stopped 14* 
miles from Erie to feed my horse. Here I met with an honest 
Dutch farmer, who told me he had been a soldier in the American 
war, and was now settled near Chataughque lake, in a fertile coun- 
try, and liked the place very v/ell. 

We travelled on together, and four miles fi'om the tavern, at 
Twenty Mile creek, which we passed after descending a very deep 
valley, we met seven waggons loaded with new settlers for the wes- 
tern countr}^ Each waggon contained about eight or ten persons. 
We spoke to one of the families, who told us they were from Low- 
er Canada. Ten miles beyond this we reached a Mrs. Perry's, 
near Chataughque creek, where we stopped all night. 

October 26th. This morning was clear, cold, and beautiful, 
witii a pretty hard frost. I met with two gentlemen of the name 
of Strong from the Connecticut Reserve, bound for Connecticut, 
and I availed myself of their company. 

There is no great variety in this district : the face of the country 
is nearly level ; the land generally pretty good ; and the woods con- 
sist of beech, elm, walnut, chesnut, &c. interspersed with some 
little hen)lock and pine, all the way on from Erie. We travelled 
13 miles to breakfast, part of the way by an execrable road. Four 
jniles from thence we passed through Canadawny, where there 
lis a fine creek, and some good mills, and it seems a thriving set- 
tlement. Beyond this the road is a little more dry, but by no means 



NEW YORK. 483 

good, for 1 1 miles, where we passed two very romantic little streams 
jwrhicli formed a junction a little below. From thence we passed a 
pretty high ridge, and came to the banks of the lake, where we 
could see the trees in Upper Canada : we then travelled three miles 
along the lake shore, when we arrived at Catai'agus, where we 
stopped for the night. 

The inhabitants in all this district are mostly from the New 
England states, and are very civil and discreet. 

We were told by tlie landlord, that a vast number of people 
travel through this place annually to the westward. The greatest 
number are from Connecticut, the next greatest from Massachu- 
sets, next from New Hampshire, and a considerable number from 
Rhode Island, Vermont, and Lower Canada. 

Cataraffus creek is a considerable stream, rising about 50 miles 
to the eastward. It has some good situations for mill-seats, and 
fertile banks, particularly near the lake, on which there is an In- 
dian reservation of about 50 square miles, containing a settlement 
of between 500 and 600 Indians. They are very peaceable and 
well disposed. 

October 27th. We started at six oclock ; the morning was 
clear, and rather cold. We crossed at a ferry, and travelled 
through a rich bottom, part of the Indian reservation, about half 
a mile, when we reached the lake shore. There was a considerable 
swell from the north-west, which occasioned a rough surf, and 
we were soon stopped at a rocky precipice, against which the waves 
dashed with great violence. We clambered up the hill, and tra- 
velled round it through the woods by a very bad road. Here we 
met a travelling flxmily who had been obliged to lie out all night ; 
one of the children had been taken sick, and the poor mother, 
a very good-looking woman, appeared veiy dejected; but she 
brightened up a little when we told them they ^^ere only a little 
way from a tavern. W^e could hardly refrain from tears of sym- 
pathy, and Mr. Sti'ong said it brought the circumstance of his 
own emigration fresh to his mind, during which " the old woman 
shed many a salt tear." 

Having wished this family a good journey, we d'avelled on a lit- 
tle way, when we came to a second set of rocks, which we also pas- 
sed by a very bad road through die woods, and passing again to 
the beach, we came to a third series, along the foot of which we 
travelled nearly three quartci's of a mile. These rocks arc elevated 



481 



TRAVELS IN 



above the lake from 50 to GO feet, arc perpendicular, and general- 
ly composed of soft blue slate. When the lake is calm, or when 
the wind blows from the east or south, the beach is dry at the foot, 
and travelling, though a little rough, is tolerably good; but when 
the lake is rough, and a wind from the north or west, it is impos- 
sible sometimes to pass along the shore, and attended with danger 
to attempt it. We were told that a waggon, in attempting to pass 
some time before, had been upset, and a young woman drowned. 

At this place, and a considerable way along the shore, there is a 
singular stratimi of blue slate, over which the road passes, smooth 
under our feet, and disposed in layers of about 2^ or 3 feet broad, 
that ap{)ear as regularly joined as a pavement done by art. These 
run out into the lake nearly at right angles with the shore, and at an 
angle of descent probably not exceeding one degree. They appear- 
ed in the water as far asl could perceive, and the view was really 
admirable. 

Passing these, we travelled a little way over sands, when we 
came to a small creek, and my companions, being afraid of quick- 
sands at its outlet, travelled some way round by a bridge. As I 
saw nothing lo fear, I kept the road by the lake shore; but I soon 
found myself in an unlooked-for dilemma. I came to another pre- 
cipice : my companions had taken the road through the woods ; 
the waves beat violently against the rocks ; and I stood for some 
time undetermined whether I should attempt to pass or not. I 
went a little way into tlie lake, and observed that the passage was 
of no great breadth, and that it was occasionally nearly dry at the 
foot of the rocks. I was induced to venture ; but I had proceeded 
only a little way when a rolling wave nearly dashed my horse a- 
gainst the rocks, and almost carried it of[' its feet by its return, I 
was now in equal danger whether 1 went on or turned back. I 
pushed on, but the lake became more deep, and the bottom very 
rough. Another wave struck my horse, and it tumbled over a 
stone at the same moment, and had almost foundered. However, 
I was now past the worst, and in a little got safely round the rock, 
where my companions were anxiously waiting for me. It appears, 
the great danger in these passes is from the horse foundering over 
the stony bottom. 

Beyond this we travelled over a broad sandy beach, where we 
had a fine view of the lake; the land was flat, and the soil sandy; 
the princi})al timber being scrubby oak, hemlock, pine, &c. At 
some places, however, the country was more elevated, with vast 



NEW YORK. 485 

masses of limestone, and towards noon we came to a body of good 
land, and stopped at a beautiful plantation on the banks of the 
lake to breakfast. I was told that the family were from Vermont, 
and had been here five years. They had a farm of 300 acres, of 
which they had cleared 120. Here is one of the most beautiful 
prospects that I saw on all the lake. 

From hence we travelled five miles along the beach ; the banks 
being high, and pretty fertile. Here we passed a creek, in the 
mouth of which lay a little crazy boat, which was bound up the 
lake, but could not proceed, and the materials of a moving family 
were scattered abroad upon the beach. After passing this creek 
the sandy beach is broad ; the land on the shore of the lake is low, 
and we were told that an extensive swamp stretched a considerable 
Way to the eastward. As we approached the Buffiilo creek, we left 
the lake shore, and passed over a very fertile tract of level country. 
At the creek the people were building a bridge, but not being pas- 
sable, we crossed by a boat, and travelling along a very fertile 
bank, about a mile, we reached Buffalo, at five o'clock in the even- 
ing. Here 1 stopped, and my agreeable travelling companions 
continued their journey to the eastward. 

Buffalo is handsomely situated at the east end of lake Erie, 
where it conmiands a beautiful view of the lake, of Upper Cana- 
da, and fort Erie, and a great distance to the southward, which is 
terminated by an elevated lofty country. The scite of the town ex- 
tends quite to the lake shore, but it is principally built on an emi- 
nence of about 30 feet, a little distance ; and to the south along 
the creek are handsome rich bottom lots, which are at present a 
little marshy, but will, when drained, be most valuable appendages 
to this very beautiful place. 

Buffalo was laid out for a town about five years ago, and is re- 
gularly disposed in streets and lots. The lots are from 60 to 100 
feet deep, and sell from 25 to 50 dollars; and there are out-lots of 
5 and 10 acres, worth at present from 10 to 25 dollars per acre. 
The population was by lai^t census 365, it is now computed at 500, 
and is rapidly increasing. 

The buildings arc mostly of wood, painted white, but there is a 
number of good brick houses, and some few of stone. There are 
four taverns, eight stores, two schools ; and a weekly newspaper 
has been recently established. The town is as yet too new for the 
introduction of any manufactures, except those of the domestic 
kind. The greater part of the people are farmers and mechanics. 



4S6 TRAVELS IN 

The settlers here are most from the New England states, bu£ 
the town being on the great thoroughfare to the western coun- 
tiy, there is a general mixture. A considerable trade is 
constantly kept up by the influx and reflux of strangers, 
and such articles as are necessary for their accommodation are 
dear. House-rent is from 2 to 20 dollars per week ; wood is 1 dol- 
lar per cord, flour is 7 dollars per barrel, pork 6 dollars per cwt., 
beef 4 dollars, porter 6 dollars per dozen. Fish are very plenty 
and cheap. Boarding is about 3 dollars per week. 

The situation is quite health}', and the seasons are much more 
mild and open than might be expected in that northern latitude; 
tiie efl'ects of the southerly winds already noted are very apparent 
here. 

Buffalo ci'eek rises by three considerable branches, about 40 
miles to the eastward, and after watering an extensive tract of coun- 
tr}^, they unite about six miles from the town, where there is a con- 
siderable Indian village, and flow into the lake by a slow current. 
It is navigable about four miles, and it is proposed to run a pier in- 
to the lake at its outlet, and form a harbour, which would be a most 
important advantage to this part of the country. 

Upon the whole, I think this is likely to become a great settle- 
ment. It already commands an inmiense navigation, and its in- 
crease is guaranteed by the opening of roads in all directions, n. 
great many of which must centre here. Already there is a turnpike 
road to New York, having the accommodation of a stage three 
times a week ; there is a good road to the falls of Niagara, and 
thence through a considerable part of Upper Canada ; a turnpike 
road is projected to Philadelphia; and from the increase of popu- 
lation to the westward, a good road must soon be made to Erie, and 
thence in different directions through the western country. 

There is a considerable settlement of Indians in the neighbour- 
hood of this place, and Buffalo is a sort of head- quarters for trans- 
acting Indian business ; in consequence of which frequent councils 
are held here, which have produced several very brilliant specimens 
of Indian intellect and eloquence.* 

* Mr. Ward, my fcllow-lravcller on tl)e OFiio, was here in the preceding month of May, 
and attended a council, at which he heard two speeches deUvered by one of the Indians, 
called Red Jacket, with such animation of gesture and force of language as perfectly as- 
tonished him. I have since got a translation of these extraordinary speeches, attested by 
a particular friend, and here present them to the public as genuine effusions of natural 
elogueuce. 



NEW YORK. 



48T 



To explain them, it is necessaiy to state that tlie Indians in this di;striGt, When they ssold 
Iheir lands, made certain reservations for themselves and their families to reside on. Two 
of these reservations have been noticed, and there are several others, amounting in tli8 
whole to upwards of '200,000 acres. The pre-emption right, namely, the right to pur- 
chase from the Indians, was sold by the Holland company to ceitain gentlemen in New 
York, and they sent a Mr. Richardson as agent to endeavour to make a bargain with the 
Indians. The missionary society of New York appointed a Mr. Alexander on a mission 
to the Seneca Indians, to endeavour to convert them to Cliristianity ; and these two gen- 
tlemen addressed them on the subject of their respective missions, about the same time. 
The council was held at IJulTalo, in May, 1811, and was attended by Mr. Granger, agent 
of the United States for Indian affairs, Mr. Parrish, Indian interpreter, and Mr. Taylor, 
the agent of tlie society of friends, for improving the condition of the Indians. 

Red Jacket, who is called by the Indians Sagu-i/u-uihatta, which signifies Keeper 
awake, in answer to Mr. Richardson, spoke as follows : 

" brother; We opened our ears to the talk you lately delivered to us, at our coimcil 
fire. In doing important business it is best not to tell long stories ; but to come to it in 
a few words. We, therefore, shall not repeat your talk, which is fresh in our minds. We 
have well considered it, and the advantages and disadvantages of your offers. We re- 
quest your attention to our ansvver, which is not from the speaker alone, but from all tlie 
sachems and chiefs now around our council fire. 

" Brother ; We know that great men, as well as great nations, having different inte- 
tests, have different minds, and do not see the same subject in the same light — but we 
hope (^ur answer will be agreeable to you and to your employers. 

'■' Brother I Your application for the purchase of our lands, is to our minds very ex- 
traordinary. It has been made in a crooked manner ; you have not walked in the straio-ht 
patli pointed out by the great council of your nation. You have no writings from our 
great father the president. 

" Brother ; In making up our minds, we have looked back, and remembered how the 
Yorkers purchased our lands in former times. They bought them piece after piece for 
a little money paid to a few men in ournatiwn, and not to all our brethren; our plant- 
ing and hunting grounds have become very small, and if we sell these, we know not where 
to spreaJ our blankets. 

" Brother ; You tell us your employers have purchased of the council of Yorkers a 
right to buy our lands. We do not understand how this can be ; the lands do not belou" 
to tiie Yorkers ; they are ours, and were given to us by the Great Spirit. 

" Brother ; We think it strange that you should jump over the lands of our brethren 
in the east, to coma to our council fire so far off, to get our lands. When we sold our 
lands in the east to the white people, we determined never to sell those we kept, which 
are as small as we can live comfortably on. 

" Brother ; You want us to travel with you, and look for other lands. If v>e should 
•ell our lands and move off into a distant country, towards the setting sun — we should 
be looked upon in the counti y to which we go as foreigners and strangers, and be despised 
by the red as well as the white men, and we should soon be surrounded by the «hitc 
men, who will there also kill our game, come upon our lands, and try to get them 
from us. ... 

"Brother: We are determined not to sell our lands but to continue on them. We 
like them ; they are fruitful, and produce us corn in ah.iiuiance, for the support of oui- 
women and children, and {frass and herbs for our catile. 



4SS TRAVELS IN 

" Brother ; At the treaties held for tke purchase of our lands, the white men, trith 
sweet voices and smiling faces, told us they loved us, and that they would not cheat us, 
but that the king's children on the other side of the lake vould cheat us. Wlien we go 
on the other side of the lake, the king's children tell us your people will cheat us ; but 
with sweet voices and smiling faces assure us of their love, and that they will not cheat 
us. These things puzzle our heads, and we believe that the Indians must take care of 
themselves, and not trust either in your people or in the king's children. 

" Brother; At a late council we requested our agents to tell you that we would 
not sell our lands, and we think you have not spoken to our agents, or they would 
have infoiTTied you so, and we should not have met you at our council fire at this time. 

"Brother; The white people buy and sell false rights to our lands. Your employers 
hare, you say, paid a great price for their right : they must have plenty of money, to 
spend it in buying false rights to lands belonging to Indians. The loss of it will not 
hurt tliem, but our lands are of great value to us, and we wish you to go back with 
your talk to your employers, and to tell them and the Yorkers, that they have no right 
to buy and sell false rights to our lands. 

"Brother: We hope you clearly understand the words we have have spoken. This 
is all we have to say." 

In answer to Mr. Alexander, Red Jacket addressed himself thus : 

"Brother; We listened to the talk you delivered tons from tlie council of black 
•oats* in New York. We have fully considered your talk, and the offers you have 
made us ; we perfectly understand them, and we return an answer, which we wish 
you also to understand. In making up our minds we have looked hack, and remem- 
bered what has been done in our days, and what our fatliers have told us was dene in 
old times. 

" Brother; Great numbers of black coats have been amongst the Indians, and with 
sweet voices, and smiling faces, have offered to teach them the religion of the white 
people. Our brethren in the east listened to the black coats — turned from the religion 
of their fathers, and took up the religion of the white peojile. What good has it 
done them ? Are they more happy and more friendly one to another than we are ? 
No, brotlier, they are a divided people — we are united ; they quarrel about religion — 
we live in love and friendship ; tliey drink strong water, have learned how to cheat, 
and to practise all the vices of the white men, (which disgrace Indians,) without imita- 
ting the virtues of the white men. Brother, if you are our well-wisher, keep awaj-j 
and do not disturb us. 

"Brother; We do not worship tlic Great Spirit as the white men do, but we be- 
lieve that forms of worship are indifferent to the Great Spirit — it is the offering of 
a sincere heart that pleases him ; and we worship him in this manner. According to 
your religion, we must believe in a Father and a Son, or we will not be happy here- 
ai'ter. We have always believed in a Father, and we worship him, as we were taught 
by our fathers. Your book says the Son was sent on earth by the Father — did all the 
people who saw the Son believe in him ? No, tliey did not, and the consequences must 
-be known to you, if you have read the book. 

"Brother; You wish to change our religion for yours : we like our religion, and 
do not want another. Our friends (pointing to Mr. Granger, Jfr. Parrish, and Mr. 
Taylor) do us great good — they counsel us in our troubles — and instruct us how ti»- 

* Tiie aiipellation jsive-n tn clergymen hy the Indiana 



UPPER CANADA. 



489 



CHAPTER XCVI. 

Slack Rock, — Upjycr Canada, — Chipjpa'wayy — Falls of Kiugara, 

'JCTOBER 28th. The weather being clear and agreeable, I 
left Buffalo at 12 o'clock, and travelled in a north-west dirpction* 
by a very good road, about 2 miles and a half, when I descend- 
ed a steep bank to Black Rock. There is a considerable settle- 
ment here along the side of the river, and many good stone houses 
have been recently built. Thei'e is a considerable settlement here 
along the side of the river, and many good stone houses have 
been recently built. The river, which is about a mile broad, is- 
sues from the lake as clear as crystal, and runs along a hard stony 
bottom with a majestic current. A coni-aderable settlement is on 
the British side, opposite to Black Rock ; and Fort Erie is hand- 
somely situated about a mile above. There is a ferry at this 
place, and a cfreat intercourse between the two sides of the river. 
From the middle of the river there is an elegant view \\\^ the 
lake; and, at the time I crossed, I saw several vessels at anchor, 
and one or two at a wharf a little above Black Rock, which is 
found to be rather an inconvenient station, on account of the ra- 
pid current. 

On reaching the Canada shore, the first indication of bein<7 in 
a different dominion was the red coats of some British soldiers, 
who were stationed in a small house by the way side. I rode uj) 
and conversed with them. They told me they belonged to the 
41 6t regiment, and were stationed at that place to keep a look 
out " after the billies" who were sometimes inclined to make a 
run to the American side. I thought from their language they 
were Scotsmen, but they told me they were from the north of 
England. 

The road proceeds along the bank of the 'Iver, and is elevated 
above the water seven or eight feet. On the Bri.'ish side there 
are rich settlements, all the way down, and I learned that the 

make ourselves comfortable. Our friends the quakers do more than this — they giva 
u« ploughs, and show us how to use them. They tell us we are accountable beings, 
but do not say we must change our religion. Vv'e are satisfied with what they do. 

" Jirother; For these reasons we cannot receive your oflfers — we have other things to 
do, and beg you to make your mind easy, and not trouble us, lest our beads should 
be too much loaded, and by and by birst," 

62 



490 



TRAVELS IK 



inhabitants were cliicfly Germans, from Pennsylvania. On the 
American side there are very few settlements, but they have com- 
menced, and it is supposed they will go on very rapidly. The 
liver increases in breadth as it proceeds downward, and, about 
five miles from the fcri-y, it branches elf into two divisions, em- 
bodying Grand Island, containing about 2t,000 acres of rich land, 
on which the Indian claim is not yet extinct, and of which the 
state of New York has the pre-emption right. Below this is Navy 
Island, Vi^here the river again unites, and forms a spacious bay 
upwards of two miles broad. Near the middle of this bay Chippa- 
way creek falls into the river, and Chippaway village Is situated 
on both sides of the creek, close by its outlet. I heard the sound 
of the falls about four or five miles above this place, and I could 
distinctly see the spray, rising like a cloud, and hear the waters 
roaring with a continued noise, like distant thunder. It was near 
sun-set when I arrived at Chippaway, but I could not sleep be- 
lore I enjoyetl the sight of this astonishing cataract ] so, after be- 
speaking lodgings at the tavern, I proceeded towards it. 

Chippaway creek is a black muddy stream, and the river runs 
here with great velocity, which throws all the v\aters of the creek 
towards tlic land ; and they run along the bank, forming a re- 
niarkable contrast with the adjoining pure water. The bed of the 
river now recedes with a declivity that lowers the water about SO 
feet in less than a mile distance, and its motion is accelerated to 
the velocity of 12 or 14 miles an hour Here a small part of the 
river, consisting principally of the waters of Chippaway creek, 
parts with the main stream, and winds between a small low island 
and a lofty bank, round which the road turns. On reaching the. 
lower end of the island, the rapids appear in full view; anil an 
astonishing view it is, to behold a sheet of water, nearly a mile 
broad, and very dee[), tossing and tumbling among rocks and 
precipices for nearly half a mile, during which it faUs 52 feet, 
when it apparently sinks below the surface of the earth, and 
eludes your view. 

The banks here seem to rise a little ; the country is pretty fer- 
tile, and there are a number of settlements. Being anxious to 
see the grand fall before it became dark, I hurried on as fast as 
a constant desire to view and admire the rapids would allow me. 
Near the foot of the small low island, the road t.ikes a circuitous 
course round some plantatioxis, and, losing tiic view of the rapids, 



UPPER CANADA. 491 

affords a little time for meditation. On again reaching the bank, 
. the whole of the upper part of the falls come into view, which, with 
the rapids, the clouds of spray that constantly rise like smoke, and 
the tremendous roarino- of the water, forms a scene awfully sub- 
Jime. My eyes were rivetted to the spot, w hile I exclaimed 

" These are thy glorious works, Parent of good ! 
Almighty ! 'I'liiue this universal frame. 

these declare 

Thy greatness beyond thought, and power divine." 

I moved forward along the high bank nearly half a mile, in which 
every point presented a new and interesting view of this stupen- 
dous wonder of nature. At some of the last points where I stood, 
I was right in front of the whole sheet of falling water. It is 
divided into two parts by an island, but the great volume is on 
the Canada side, and falls with a tremendous velocity, forming a 
curve, and thence called the horse-shoe foil. That on the A- 
merican side falls with a regular cascade, and a fragment of the 
island forms a comparatively very small fall between them. Hav- 
ing gazed upon this scene till near dark, I returned to Chippaway, 
viewing the rapids with delight, as I passed them ; and, looking 
through this grand scene to its almighty Author, 

" I blessed the wonder-working God of heaven." 

October 29th. Having taken a general view of the falls on the 
preceding evening, I devoted this doy to a more close inspection, 
and having procured a Scotsman, of the name of M'Intosh, lor 
my guide, we set out togetiier. About a mile and a half below 
Chippaway, we descended from the high bank to the side of the 
river, and came so close to the ra})icis, that I could wash my 
hands in them. The view up the river was very grand, but it 
here loses much of the effect by being so close upon it. There 
are several mills close upon the river side, supjilied by water from 
the rapids. We ascended to the high bank, where I left my 
horse, and my guide conducted me to the 1 able rock, close by the 
great fall, which we approached so near, that I washed my hands 
in the water two or three yards above the awful precipice. The 
view here is very striking, but the same remark applies as at the 
rapids ; it is too near to be sublime. The Table rock, -.vlicre 
we stood, is part of the platform from which the river makes he 



492 TRAVELS IN 

grand pitch. It is 172 feet high;* the upper part is about 20 
I'ect thick, and jirojccts over tlie base about 40 feet. It is com- 
posed of very hard limestone, mixed with flint. It is checquered, 
to the extent of half an acre, by innumerable fissures, some of 
them so large that I coi;kl thrust down iny arm — a sure indication 
of its decay; and probably, in a ievv years, the whole of this rock, 
with the numerous nien)orials of the visitors carved on it, will be 
precipitated to the abyss bek)w. 

We again ascended the high bank, and going round by a cir* 
cuit of nearly two miles, we reached the bank of the river, half a 
mile below the fails, where tiiere is a descent by a ladder 45 fett 
long :| after which we hud to travel over rocky precipices, some 
of ihcm very rough, about half a mile. '1 he descent over these 
rocks to the margin of the river is about 140 leet, and as the 
path rises and falls alternately, the journey is very fatiguing ; 
but the traveller is ayiply repaid by the awful grandeur of the 
amazing fall of water in front of him, and the view of the troubled 
water below, wiiich boils, and foams, and whirls, in all directionsy 
as if it were stunned by the dreadful fall ; when at length, collect- 
ing its forces about half a mile below, it hurries away between 
the high perpendicular banks with which it is hemmed in, in 
rapid and awful majesty. 

As we approached the foot of the fall, the spray began to de- 
scend upon us like a shower of rain, and we had to pass a jutting 
jirecipice, against which it dashed with great violence, and fell 
down upon us in such torrents, that we were wet to the skin in an 
instant. 

We now got below the awful cavity formed by the Table rock, 
and i approached so near the edge of the falling mass, that I 
could see distinctly behind it a considerable way, till the view was 
terminated in utter darkness. The scenery overhead was truly 
terrific, more especially when associated with the idea, that the 

* The f;.ll has been variously represented, but in most of the late geographical 
works, it has been esfinialed at 137 feet. The guide told me it was 170, and I have 
since conversed with a gontlcman who plumnied it from the Table rock, and found it 
to be 172. I saw the line in his possession, with the marks on it, and am convinced 
that the accuracy of this measurement may be relied on. 

f Until lately, the descent was very difficult, for want of a good ladder. That de- 
fect has now been supplied by the generosity of a lady from Rhode Island, who erect- 
td an elegant ladder with side rails. The guide mentioned her name, but I have for- 
jiol it. 1 beg leave, however, to tender the fair donor my portion of the public thanks. 



\jrPER CANADA. Wo 

xvfcole of these hanging rocks will at some period fall down with a 
tremendous crash. The dreadful agitation of the falling mass of 
waters, the tremendous noise, and the shaking of the rocks around 
you, add to the awftil grandeur of this terrific scene. Having gaz- 
ed on it for some time, my senses almost overpowered with won- 
der, we retired, but I often stopped by the way to beliold and 
admire ; and reuchhig the top of the ladder a little before sun-set, 
the view was finished by the exhibition of a brilliant rainbow, 
i elegantly painted in the voluminous clouds of rising spi'ay. 



ciiArxER xcvir. 

Upper Canada, — Qiieenstown, — Lewistcwn. 

I There is a noble trait in the character of the mass of the A- 
merican people, that of independence. They place them.selves on 
an equal footing with whoever they come in contact with. If they 
do any thing for you, they will have their price, and a good price 
too ; but it is not customary to take hire in a sneaking way ; they 
generally ask their price without leaving it to the generosity of the 
employer. 

Habits of subserviency, resulting, no doubt, from the opera- 
tion of the feudal system, are general among the peasantry of 
Europe, and they appear to have extended to Canada. It is a 
common tiling, 1 ^md, in those who take a station to wait upon 
travellers, to leave the payment to the pleasure of the company : 
the practice is an unpleasant one to both parties. To the receiver 
it operates in some instances to prevent him from getting a rea- 
sonable compensation for his services, and in others he will get 
too much. To the payer it is more unpleasant, because it sub- 
jects him to an uncertainty as to the extent of the compensation of- 
fered. I found myself in that unpleasant situation at the fall-. 
In a case where I could not bring the person whose services I 
had engaged to a tangible point, I gave what I considered right, 
\^ but might Very possibly be abused for not giving more ; that bein<T 
t. common custom with those kind of subservient gentry, who de- 
pend on the pleasure of the company. 

"\Vlien we arrived at the main road, I felt very chilly, after wy 
ducking below the falls; and went, accompanied by the guide, to 



494 



TRAVELS IN 



a Canadian inn, to get some spirits. As I did not alirrlit, they 
brought the whiskej^-bottle and a glass, depending, of course, on 
the pleasure of the cowjmmj. I drank part of a glass, and the 
guide as much ; in all, about half a gill. 1 had no coin loss than 
a quarter of a dollar, and I handed it to the host, thai he might 
satisfy himself out of it. " Thank you," says he, very deliberately 
putting the quarter of a dollar in his pocket. Had it been a whole 
dollar, or five dollars, it would have gone the same roau ; for 
these *ixhat-you please folks take care never to have any chano-e 
about them. 

I now rode with a pretty quick pace towards Queenstown, an^l 
in my progress was overtaken by a nutnber of British oiricers aiid 
their party, dashing along, some of them in gigs, and some on 
horseback, shouting and hallooing at a great rate. They appeared 
to be tipsey, for I could hear them menacing and insulting the in- 
habitants as they passed ; and at the first house I came to I sto})ped 
to make some inquiries. The settler was one of the '^ poor good 
Dutch," as Cobbctt calls them, who said the soldiers were a little 
rude sometimes, but it was a very good government for ;.ill that. 

A little after parting with the Dutchman, 1 met a Yankee from 
New Hampshire, and he tuned iiis pipe to another key. He said 
he had seen enough of the government of Upper Canada. W^hat 
I had observed was but a small sample of the insolence of 
the soldiery. He represented every thing as under military 
controul, and, whenever any man chose to take a mean re- 
venge of his neighbour, Jie had no more to do but represent him 
to the military as a disloyal man, and they would take care of him. 
He said many who had committed no crime whatever, had been 
seized in this way; — some were imjjrisoned, and kept for months in 
jail, without knowing their crime or their accuser; others were sent 
off to Lower Canada, and some even to Britain, to be tried. As 
for the liberty of the press, there was no such thing; and the pride 
and insolence of the ruling powers were excessive. He was only 
to remain here till his affairs were settled, when he meant to move 
off to the state of Ohio.* 

* The haughtiness and pride of some of the officers here may be illustrated by an 
anecdote. A gentleman of respectability told me that he was transacting some busi- 
ness at Newark, near Fort George; and having some boatmen to pay, it was necessary 
to prociue change of a dollar. On making enquiry where it could be done, he was 
directed to a house, when he knocked at the door, and a loud voice desired him to come 



NEW YORK. 495 

I clcscended a considerable liill, and reached Qiieenstown by 
moon-light, where getting a passage across the river, I took np 
my lodirings for the nigiit at Lewistowii. 

October 30. The morning was cloudy and warm, and I set 
out at 1 1 o'clock to see the banks of Lake Ontario. A gentleman 
in Lexington, Kentucky, had given me a letter of introduction to 
a Mr. Miller, in this neighbourhootl. I made a call by tlie way, 
and who should I find but the very gentleman mentioned by my 
garrulous old friend, the Dundee plasterer, page 235. I found 
Mr. Miller busy in the fields, and 5 sons along with him, a great 
portion in this country, He has a beautiful situation, on the banks 
of Niagara river, where he told me he had bought 1090 acres of 
land from the state, at about 3 dollars per acre ; and such had 
been the rapid improvement of these back woods, that he could 
now sell it for 9 dollars per acre. In less than 12 years, it will 
probably be worth 30 dollars. Mrs. Miller and all the liunily had 
joined him in this retreat. They have every thing within them- 
selves to make them comfortable, and he can give each of his sons 
a farm of 200 acres of as good land as any within 20 miles of the 
bonnet hill of Dundee. Mark that, Mr. Plaisterer ! and tell me a 
place in the world where the like o' that can be obtained in a few 
years labour — the back woods of America excepted. Mr. Miller 
and I agreed to meet in the evening, and I pursued my way to 
Lake Ontario. 

The road is very good, running close by the bank of tlic river, 
and there are a number of settleuients by the way. 1 learned that 
a reservation of a mile in breadth along the bank of the river, 
from Black Rock to Lake Ontario, had belonged to the state of 

in. Oil entering tl)C apartment, he saw a young officer shaving himself, wliom accost- 
ing, he said, " Would you have the goodness to fa\ our me with the cliangc of a dollar ?" 
The young man surveyed him from head to foot, and then, with a look of ineffable con- 
tempt, and an imperious voice, pronoimced, " No." The gentleman retired, and had 
gone a few yards from the house, when the officer came to the door, and called him 
back. On liis return, he desired him to come in, and shut the door; which havino- 
done, he proceeded thus : " Do you know, sir, who lam?" " An officer in the armv 
I presume," answered the other. " Yes" added he with an oath, " and I want to let 
you know, that when you presumed I would change a dollar for you, you did not (reat 
me with that respect which belongs to a representative of his majesty !" The "•entle-^ 
man again retired, and, with sentiments of indignant contempt for tiiis puny represen- 
tative of royalty, he could not help rcllecting on the words of the wise man " A h -.u a • 
ty spirit before a falL" 



496 TRAVELS IN 

New York. They had it divided into convenient lots, and sold 
by public sale some years ago; by which judicious plan the coun- 
try is settling up so rapidly, that in less than 20 years the whole 
east bank of the river v/ill probably be cultivated like a garden. 

There vras a considerable breeze from the south ; but when I 
came within half a mile of the shores of the lake, I found the cur- 
rent of air to proceed from the water, a circumstance very common 
on all the great lakes, and wliich proves that the atmosphere must 
be warmer on them than on the adjoining land. 

When I reached the lake shore, I left my horse, and dcpcended 
about 20 feet to the beacli ; where I tasted the water, and found it 
])ure and good. The view east and west had nearly the same ap- 
pearance as on Lake Eric ; but the banks are not so lefty, and the 
beach, being composed of gravel and stones, is not so handsome. 

I rode a little way to the eastward, through level plains, skirted 
with oak woods, where I saw several cattle and sheep grazing ; and 
on my return I passed over a level plain, above half a mile broad, 
and quite bare of trees, to Fort Niagara, the American garrison, 
situated on the point of land where the river falls into the lake. 

This is an old French fort,with antiquated buildings, and the works 
were going rapidly to decay. It was then garrisoned by a company 
of 81 artillery-men; but 1 was informed that the British fort on 
the other side, being more elevated, had the con)mand of it, and 
that therefore it must be abandoned in case of a war. 

The view from this place is very elegant. To the north is the lake, 
with York, the capital of Upper Canada, handsomely situated near 
the west end of it; to the north-west is the outlet of the river, with 
the bar and breakers; to the west, Newark, handsomely situated on 
the west side of the river, with the garrison at the upper, and the 
li<'ht-house at the lower end of it. The river is about half a mile 
broad, and the water perfectly pure. Its course is nearly north ; but 
it makes a small bend to the north-west immediately before it falls 
into tlie lake. It is 30 feet deep, and runs at the rate of about S miles 
an hour, from which we may calculate the discharge of water to be 
upwards of 128 millions of gallons per minute; but g;reat as the 
quantity is, it is only about a forty -fifth part of that discharged by 
the Mississippi. 

There are two bars at tlie outlet. The water on the outer bar is 
24- feet deep, on the inner bar about 18. The banks are from 20 
to 30 feet high, and the country on both sides perfectly level. To- 



NEW YOEK. 49' 

wards the south the view of the river is very splentlid, and is beaiili- 
folly terminated by the highlands about Queenstowu and Lcwistown. 
The west bank of the river has been long settled, and is studded 
\yith houses all the way between Newark and Queenstown. Ihe 
east bank is yet but partially settled, but is rapidly filling up. 
The view to the west, on the banks of the lake, is very pleasing; the 
banks are pretty high, are well settled, and said to be fertile. On 
the east bank they are more low and sandy, and the settlements 
very thin. 

The whole country, from the lake to the highlands above Lewis- 
town and Queenstown, which may, with propriety, be termed the 
' liable land of Lake Erie, is quite level, and bears evident marks of 
■ having been, at no very remote period, the bottom of Lake Ontario, 
■vhich has extended a considerable way up the ridge ; and it is very 
CN'ident, I think, that a great change will yet take place on these 
likes. But it would lead me to too wide a field to pursue this sub- 
jet; I shall therefore only remark that to account for the changes 
wiich have taken place here we have no occasion to conjure up 
earthquakes, or volcanoes, or any other great terrific operation. 
Tie whole can be accounted for by the simple yet powerful natural 
■ caises every day in active operation. " The constant dropping of 
■water weareth away stones;" and the natural tendency of running 
waters is to wear down their beds to a level with the great reservoir, 
. the ocean. 

It v,as my intention to have crossed over to Newark, in Upper 
Canada, and to have rode up the west bank of the river to Queens- 
town ; but the wind was blowing so strong that I could not cross ; 
so I collected what little information 1 could regarding it, and re- 
solved to return the way I came. Before leaving this place, howe- 
ver, I may remark that town-making is at present very fashionable 
in the United States, and this appears a beautiful scite for a town. 
The public ground belonging to the garrison is exactly a mile 
square, and is perfectly level, with an elevation of 30 feet above the 
river and lake, both of which abound with excellent fish; and a lit- 
tle bay opposite the garrison makes a very good harbour. But It is 
to be observed that no town can flourish without commerce, cither 
forei-jn or domestic. Forciirn commerce has been overdone, and 
commercial towns must suffer by the re-action. The towns, there- 
fore, that are most likely to increase, for some time to come, are 
fiuch as are situated in a rich country, capable of being thickly set- 

63 



498 BRITISH POSSESSIONS. 

tied, and having favourable positions for the increase of manufac- 
tures. Pittshuro-, Lexington, in Kentucky, and Zanesvillc, in O-l 
hio, may be cited as examples. The business of mere buying andl 
selling is in some degree precarious ; because, though it may be an( 
is often convenient to society, yet it is not absolutely necessary. It 
only transfers property, it adds nothing to the common stock ; but 
the men who raise food, and build houses, and make clothing, hole 
a most honourable station in society, because their labour is essentij 
ally necessary. We cannot live without it. 

All is the gift of industry, whatever 
Exalts, embellishes, or sweetens life. 



CHAPTER XCVm. 

J^ritish possessions^ — Nevofoundland, — Cape Breton, — Nova Scotia\ 

New Brunsxmck, — Lo-joer Canada, — Upper Canada. 
I MENTIONED in the last chapter that I procured what intAli- 
gence I could regarding Newark. On my return to Lewistowi I 
procured a great deal of intelligence regarding Canada generilly ; 
and before quitting this part of the country 1 shall take a port 
review of 
THE BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN NORTH AMERICA, 

Selecting the most material facts from works of British authority. 

Mr. Pinkerton remarks that " those parts of North Arteries 
which still belong to Britain are extensive, and of considerable im- 
portance, though so thinly peopled, and in such a disadvantageous 
climate, that they sink into insignificance when compared with the 
gteat and flourishing territories of the United States. The inhabit- 
ants of the states have been estimated at five millions (they are now 
upwards of seven ;) while those of the British possessions scarcely 
exceed 200,000 souls,* and these chiefly French and natives." 

The British lay claim to a vast extent of territory, comprehending 
from the boundary of the United States to the north pole, and across 
the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean ; but as there are 
no settlements excoj^t towards the St. Lawrence, it is unnecessary to 
take a view of any other than those near that river, comprehending 

* See the table at the end of this chapter. 



BRITISH POSSESSIONS, 499 

Upper and Lower Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Bre- 
ton, and Newfoundland. The most important of these are the Ca- 
nadas, and of these Upper Canada is an object of the greatest im- 
portance to the United States, on account of the great extent to 
which it stretches along the American territory. I shall therefore 
confine my account chiefly to this province, previous to which I shall 
just glance at the others. 

Newfoundland is an island situated on the east side of the Gijlf of 
St. Lawrence, between north latitude 46° 50' and 51° 50', and be- 
tween 52° 20' and 59" 12' west longitude from London. It is 34.7 
miles long, and about 300 broad; but both length and breadth are 
very unequal. It is subject to dreadful storms, and is almost con- 
stantly enveloped in fogs, clouds, and darkness ; and having a bar- 
ren soil, the inhabitants are few, and chiefly devoted to the fisheries. 
The chief towns are St. John, Placentia, and Bonavista. 

Cape Breton is situated between Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, 
and isi divided from the latter by a very narrow strait. It is about 
100 miles long by 30 broad. Some beds of valuable coal have been 
found, and the island is well watered with small streams ; but the 
soil is a mere moss, and unfit for cultivation. The climate is cokl 
and foggy. The chief trade is in furs and the produce of the fis^h- 
eries. The chief towns are Sidney and Louisburg. 

Nova Scotia is a considerable peninsula, lying between 43*^ 40 
and 45° 50' north latitude, and is about 300 miles long, by about 
80 of medial breadth. The country alontj the coast is ruinied and 
stony ; but there are some good spots of land upon the rivers in the 
interior of the country ; and there are valuable mines of coal, lime- 
stone, plaster of Paris, and ii'on ore. This province is settled by 
French, New England, and British people. Halifax is the capital, 
and contains about 15,000 inhabitants. 

The island of St. John, 60 miles long, and 30 broad, lies to the 
north of Nova Scotia, and has some good soil, and several rivers. 
It contains about 5000 inhabitants. 

New Brunswick extends from Nova Scotia to Canada, and from 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Disti'ict of Maine. 

There are several rivers in this province, of which tlic chief is St. 
John's, running a course of about 400 milfs, and there is some 
good land on their banks. St. John's, containing about 100 inha- 
bitants, is the capital. The whole of the provinces of New Bruns- 
wick, Nova Scotia, and settlements attached to them, are comjMited 
to contain about 50,000 inhabitants. 



BRITISH POSSESSIONS. 

Lower Canada lies on both sides of the river St. Lawrence, be- 
tween 45° and 52" north latitude, and extends westward to the ri- 
ver Utawas, on the west side of Montreal. A considerable part of 
it borders on the district of Maine, 30 miles on new Hampshire, 
95 on Vermont, and 35 on New York. 

The face of the countiy is rather level, and contains a great deal 
of good soil, producing grass, grain, and tobacco in abundance. 
The settlements extend mostly along the banks of the river, and the 
greater part of the country is covered with wood, which is rather 
of a small growth, except in the meadows, where the trees are large. 

The climate is very severe, and the heat and cold go to great ex- 
tremes, and sometimes in very rapid succession. The thermome- 
ter rises in summer to 98°, and in winter the mercury freezes. The 
snow begins to fall in November, and continues on the ground till 
May, when the summer heat is almost instantaneous. In January 
and February the frost is so intense that there is danger of being 
frost-bitten, and to guard against it the inhabitants cover the whole 
body with furs, except the eyes and nose. 

The population is computed at about 130,000; and they have a 
very considerable trade, which chiefly centres in the two great Ca- 
nadian towns, Quebec and Montreal. 

Quebec is the capital, and stands on a rock, on the north side of 
the St. Lawrence, 320 miles from the sea. The town is well forti- 
lied, being considered almost impregnable. There is sufficient depth 
of water to float vessels of any burden to Quebec. The inhabitants 
are supposed to be above 10,000, of whom two-thirds are of French 
extraction. 

Montreal is situated on an island in the St. Lawrence, 170 miles 
above Quebec; and is a handsome town, containing about 6000 
inhabitants. 

A very considerable portion of the trade of the river, and these 
tov/nsj is derived from Upper Canada and the United States; and 
the exports, chiefly of grain, flour, provisions, pottish, timber, naval 
stores, furs, &c. have of late been very great. Tlie imports arc chief- 
ly British goods, with which the inhabitants contrive to supply a 
considerable part of the United States, by smuggling ; and the A- 
mericans, in return, smuggle tea, coffee, &c. to the CanadianV. 

Learning is ;it a low ebb. Mr. Pinkerton says " the Frencli wo- 
men in Canada can generally read and write, and are thus superior 
to the men ; but both are sunk in ignorance and superstifion : and 
he English lauQ-uaije is confined to the lev/ British settlers," 



BRITISH POSSESSIONS. 501 

Upper Canada extends from Lower Canada to the lake of 
Winnipeg, in long. 97°, and comprehends an immense extent 
iand variety of territory, of which that portion stretching between 
the great lakes, and along the banks of the St. Lawrence, is the 
best; and taken as a whole, it is superior to any other part of the 
British possessions in North America. 

The settlements are chiefly confined to the banks of the river 
and lakes, and present a most extensive, and in some places a 
thickly settled frontier to the United States. About 180 
miles border on the state of New York, and the lakes opposite to 
it; 45 on Lake Erie opposite the state of Pennsylvania; 150 op- 
posite the state of Ohio ; and 300 on the rivers and lakes opposite 
the Michigan Territory-. 

The inhabitants are composed of French, English, and Scot- 
tish, and a great many have emigrated from the United States 
within these last 20 years, principally of Dutch and German ex- 
traction. The whole of the inhabitants have been estimated at 
40,000, but they are probably double that number, and as this 
district enjoys a pretty mild climate, and good soil, especially a- 
iong the lakes, they are likely to increase. 

York, the capital, is a small pleasant town, containing a good 
many frame houses; but the land is rather low and unhealthy in 
its neighbourhood. 

Newark, already noticed, contains about 500 inhabitants, and 
many of the buildings are handsome, being composed of brick 
and stone. It has 2 churches, a jail, and academy; 6 taverns, 
and about 20 dry-goods stores ; where every article can be had on 
as good terms as in Montreal. The fort here is garrisoned with 
500 men, of the 41st regiment; and the remainder of the regi- 
ment are distributed along the banks of the lake. 

Queenstown contains about 300 inhabitants. It has six stores 
iind several taverns, iand a considerable trade along the lakes. 

Kingstown, at the east end of lake Ontario, is a handsome lit- 
tle place, and the farriicrs in its neighbourhood are said to live as 
comfortably as they do in New England. 

Maiden, at the west end of lake Erie, consists of about 100 
houses, and has a garrison, and a great trade with the Indian 
tribes. 

That part of the province which stretches between the lakes, 
ying between the 42d and 4 5th degree of north latitude, is by 



603 BRITISH POSSESSIONS. 

fiir the most vauable, and enjoys a comparatively temperate cli- 
mate. The western winds, already noticed, prevail; and the 
winters are generally more mild than at Philadelphia or New 
York, while the summers are cool and pleasant. The part of it 
that I saw on the north side of lake Erie, and between the lakes, 
is beautiful. It will in all probability become a thickly-settled 
country ; and to it, and the adjoining states, will the inhabitants 
in the lower districts continue to be chiefly indebted for their 
trade. 

Agriculture is pretty well understood, and the produce is abun- 
dant. A good deal of domestic manufacture is carried on, and 
there are some carding machines, and a few coarse woollens made; 
but they are not encouraged, the genius of the government being 
directed to secure as many importations as possible from England. 

The French, and it may be added the Dutch, settled here, are 
very ignorant, and set little value upon education. Intelligence 
is chiefly confined to the British merchants and Yankee settlers. 
There are a number of schools, but they are not adapted to the 
mass of the people, nor does the genius of the leading men tend 
that wa}'. There is a considerable desire to monopolize knowledge 
as well as riches and power, and the aristocracy, being backed 
by the military, have more power here probably than in England. 
The laws appear fair and equal, but there is a great deal of un~ 
derhand management and intrigue; and neither independence of 
sentiment nor freedom of speech or of the press are encouraged ; 
indeed they are hardly tolerated; while many of the military offi- 
cers are haughty and overbearing in the highest degree. 

The subject of war between the United States and Britain be- 
ing the topic pf conversation, I made very minute inquiry, so as 
to learn the sentiments of the people here regarding it. The re- 
sult of the best information I could procure was, that 1000 men 
would be sufficient, along with the militia, to protect the frontier 
on the Niagara river ; and were 5000 men to be sent into the 
province with a pro(;laniation pf independence, the great mass of 
the people would join the American government. 

The following summary of the population and trade of Canada, 
is copied from a late British newspaper. 

Population about 330,000 



NEW YORK. 



503 



Exports. 

Furs and skins j£. 150,000 

Wheat, flour, buscuit, and grain 136,500 

Lumber 556,500 

Pot and Pearl ashes 223,000 

Beef and pork 80,000 

Sundries 16,000 



Total ^.1,112000 





Imports about 


Vessels employed 


660 


Tons ot shipping 


144,000 



j^. 1,000,000 



CHAPTER XCIX. 

Leave LewisiowHi — Devil's Hole, — Grand Niagara^ — Forf Sihlosscr, 

JTl. R. and Mrs Miller having on the preceding evening agreed to 
accompany me to the falls, on the American side, they called for 
me this morning, and we set out at 10 o'clock. As we passed 
through Lewistown I procured the following information regarding 
this new settlement. 

Lewistown is laid out on a handsome plan, occupying a mile 
square, and a considerable piece of ground is appropriated to pub- 
lic purposes. It is subdivided into blocks of three chains, each 
containing three lots, and they sell at present for from 100 to 300 
dollars. It is gradually building up with brick, frame, and stone 
houses; and is well supplied with fine water, which renders it very 
comfortable. Being at the bottom of the portage on the American 
side, it is the seat of considerable trade, which is likely to increase. 
Twenty vessels belong to the lake navigation here, and 2300 
bushels of salt were landed at Lewistown last season. The quan- 
tify ot-flour, grain, provisions, and peltry that are shipped, is con- 
siderable; and for every article of produce there is a brisk de- 
mand, and a good price. Wheat sells for 1 dollar per bushel, 
flour 7 dollars per barrel, pork 6 dolLirs per barrel. Tiie coun- 
try is improving in the neighbourhood, and land is wortli i'xonx 7 



50 i- TRAVELS IN 

to 9 dollars per acre. Merino sheep have been introduced, and 
are doing well; and thei'eare considerable domestic manufactures, 
thoui);h none on a large scale. 

About a mile from Lewistown we reached the foot of the as- 
cent which leads to the table land above; and I frequcndy 
^stopped by the vvay, to admire the fine view, and to examine the 
mechaiUHm of this part of the country; whicli clearly demonstrates 
that the falls were once here, and have, through the lapse of ages, 
worn a passage eight miles upwards to where they now are. 
They must have been successively at every point of the intermediate 
space. The river below this liolds a placid, though pretty rapid 
course, to the lake, the surface being only 15 or 20 feet below the 
banks ; and it is from one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide ; 
but above this it is confined within a narrow channel, the motion 
is accelerated to a great velocity, raid it is rough and turbulent, 
the probable effect of a very ragged bottom, which the falls would 
make in their ascent. The banks, nearly perpendicular, are about 
300 feet high, and composed of hard limestone above, and schistus 
below ; and this arrangement continues all the way to the present 
fall. 

I shall here transcribe Volney's remarks on this subject. " To 
those who closely examine the situation of the scene, it is plain 
the fall commences here, and that it has sawed through the lay- 
ers of the rock, and thus hollowed out its channel. The chasm 
lias been gradually worn away, from age to age, till it reached the 
place where the fall now appears. This operation has contiimed 
slowly, but incessantly. The oldest settlers in the neighbourhood 
recollect a period when the bank of the fall was several paces for- 
ward. In the winter of 1797-8, the great thnw, and consequent 
Hoods, loosened great masses, which confined the course of the 
water."* 

* V^olney expressses a wish that the government would cause an exact account to be 
taken of the present state of the cataract, that, being compared with other statements 
from time to time, would enable us to trace with certainty the changes that may here- 
«fter take place. This is now not so necessary as when Volncy visited these falls. 
The country is rapidly settling up around them, and many people visit them yearly, 
fcome of whom will occasionally publish their travels, so that all facts and circumstan- 
ces regarding them will be minutely put upon record. To me it is very obvious that they 
have, to use Volney's expression, saired a passage through a bo'.ly of very liarJ rock, 
eight miles iu length ; and it is perfectly reasonable to co.iclude that tiie operation is 



KEW YORK. 505 

On reaching the summit of the table land, about 300 feet high, 
we had a fine view of the plain and river below, of lake Ontario, 
York, Newark, Queenstown, and Lewistown. The soil above is dif- 
ferent from that below ; it has a larger portion of vegetable mould ; 
the timber is larger, and exhibits greater variety ; and every appear- 
ance indicates a state of greater maturity, and consequently of 
"greater antiquity. I consider the soil here better than that below, 
and I would prefer this situation as a place of residence ; but the 

Constantly going on. It cannot be otherwise ; and it is clear that thoy will, in pro- 
cess of time, saw a passage through the i*ocks 20 miles upwards, and drain Lake 
£rie. But this must be a very slow process, though it is inevitably certain, and some 
of the inhabitants, who live 2 or 300,000 years hence, may view the falls below De- 
troit, and refer to works of the present day for proof that tliey onoe existed at this 
place ; and that a lake (lake Erie,) 300 miles long and 70 broad, existed in the inter- 
mediate space, no trace of which will then be seen. 

Mr. Schultz, a late intelligent and agreeal)le traveller, has given a very correct de- 
scription of tliese falls ; and, as might be expected, is led into a train of reasoning re- 
garding their duration and progi ess, for which he has been censured by his reviewers , 
as attempting to destroy the Mosaic history of man, and with it divine revelation. But 
it should be recollected that revelation consists of two parts, verbal and natural, of 
which the last is by far the most important, as Dr. Paley has demonstrated in liis ele- 
gant treatise on natural theology ; and some of the ancient writers in scripture seeui to 
have been of the same opinion. " The heavens declare the glory of God, and the lir- 
mament showeth his handy-work: there is no speech nor language where their voice is 
not heard." " Through faith ive understand that the worlds were framed by the word 
of God." " Come, behold the works of the Lord." " In his hand are thedeep places 
of tlie earth ; the strength of tlie hills is his also. The sea is his, and he made it ; and 
bis hands formod the diy land. O, come, let us worship and bow down ; let ns knetl 
before the Lord, our maker." In beholding the works of God in the creation, it is 
one of the attributes of our nature to reason and to reflect upon them ; and it is r; 
proof of integrity of principle, and independence of sentiment, to state catididly the 
impressions that are made upon the mind l)y the investigation. The writer may be mis- 
taken ; but if he has communicated his ideas in respectful language, he should not be 
blamed on that account, and a mistake of the judgment should not be construct! into 
an evil intention. Mr. Schultz is not tire only person, who, from the appearances of 
nature, has been induced to assign a much greiiter degree of antiquity to the world 
than what is assigned by the popular opinion ; and 1 really do not see that the idea at 
all militates against ("verbal) " revelation," or " the Mosaic history of man." The 
present system of chronology is, if I mistake not, deduced from tlic Mosaic account 
of the creation, by inference only. Moses simply says, " In the begiiminrr God created 
the heavens and the earth." He does not say when the beginning was ; and, for any 
thing that appears in his wTitingi, it may be with as great propriety fixed at 27,000 as 
6000 years. For my own part, I believe tlie world to have existed from a space of timii 
infinitely beyond either, although I tliink it extremely probable that the present race of 
men has not existed long beyond 6000 years. 

6t 



506 TRAVELS IN 

plain is settling most rapidly, chiefly on account of theconvenicney 
of the water. 

After travelling about four miles, we came to the river bank, 
which was so steep that I could throw a stone into the water at least 
350 feet distant. "We stopped a few minutes at a small distillery, 
belonging to a Scotsman ; after which, we again approached the 
bank of the river, at a place called Devil's Hole, a frighttul cavity, 
where I was tohl a party of 50 or 60 British soldiers had been 
pursued by the Indians, and only 11 escaped alive. Not far from 
hence there is a whirlpool on the opposite side, which, as I did not 
see, I shall describe in the words of Volney. " I had an oppor- 
tunity of visiting the ravine (in which the river runs,) at a spot 
where a large bay is formed in one of its sides. Here the waters 
have formed a deep recess or whirlpool, in which are entangled 
all the floating bodies, which cannot go any further. We observe, 
at this place, the river, checked by the stubborn rock, carries its 
fall over several points, and appears to search out the weakest spot, 
through which it continues its way." 

We heard the sound of the falls very distinctly when we were 
four or five miles distant, and, arriving within a mile, we had a 
full view of them, and passed on to a recent settlement immediate- 
ly above them, by the side of the rapids, where a town has lately 
been laid out, called Grand Niagara. 

Here we left our horses and walked down to the falls; but the 
sheet of falling water is small here, compared with the horse-shoe 
lall ; and being interrupted by large masses of rocks below, thei 
perpendicular descent is not near so great. 

The bank is so low here that the water occasionally touches the 
grass in its descent, and you can walk to the very margin with the 
crreatest safety. I walked here so close to the edge, that I could 
wash my hands in the water while in the act of falling. 

There is a good new ladder a little below the falls on this side, 
near which, from an eminence, we had an extended view of the 
whole falls, which, though not so eminently grand as on the Canada 
side, where you get right in front of them, is yet very superb. 

The channel between the shore and the island is about 250 yards 
broad, and the dcbcent by the rapids, previous to making the 
grand pitch, is about 50 feet. 

The river is two miles and a half broad at Chippaway creeks 

At the lulls it is contracted to three-quarters of a mile. 



VIJEW of the CO VNTKY 

lound the 

FALLS of jy I AGAR A 





Below the falls it is contracted to about one-third of a mile. 

Feet. 
The descent from Chippaway creek to the head of the 

rapids, distant one mile, is 4:0 

The descent in the rapids, half a mile long, is 52 

The grand pitch at the table rock, is 1 70 



Total 262 



The whole descent from lake Erie to lake Ontario has been esti- 
mated at 450 feet; and in the distance between Fort Schlosser and 
Devil's Hole, it has been found by actual measurement to be 372 
feet. 

From the best information I could procure, 1 am inclined to 
make the following calculation on the descent of the river between 
the lakes : 

Feet. 
From lake Erie to Chippaway 16 

From Chippaway to the bottom of the grand pitch, as above 262 
From the grand pitch to Devil's Hole 1 1 

From Devil's Hole to Lewistewn 56 

From Lewistown to lake Ontario 6 

Total 450 



It has been noticed that the bed of the river above the falls is 
composed of a stratum of very hard limestone, mixed with flint. 
Below this there is a stratum of very soft slate, which, when rub- 
bed in a wet state, assumes the appearance of blue clay. This, of 
course, decays much faster than the stratum above, and accounts 
for the large cavity below the falls ; and the hard rock above, ap- 
propriately termed the table rock, projecting over the base, renders 
the pitch perpendicular. In the middle of the stream, on the 
Canada side, the great accumulation of waters breaks down this 
table rock faster than it is broken at the sides, which accounts for 
the curve in the stream, termed, from its appearance, the horse- 
shoe fall. 

At grand Niagara there are erected a grist-mill, a saw -mill, a 
fulling-mill, a carding and roving machine; and several other 
mills are projected. Tlie water is brought out of the river above 



508 TRAVELS IN 

the rapids, and as the source is inexliaustible, and the fall about 
50 feet, mills and machinery, to a very great extent, can be erect- 
here. The country round is fertile and beautiful, so that I think 
it probable this will become a very large settlement. It will not 
probably increase with the rapidity of some towns merely commer- 
cial ; but it will have a more steady progress, and be much less 
liable to re-action. 

There is a bar acroh , this branch of the river, at the head of the 
rapids, by which the people sometimes go to the island, opposite 
Grand Niagara; but it is considered rather dangerous. 

A boat loaded with salt and a canoe were carried over the falls 
not long since. The boat got adrift about five miles above, and 
was carried down by the current. There were four men in it, 
one of whom saved himself by jumping overboard, and swimming 
ashore with the help of an oar. The other three kept by the boat, 
and were, with it, dashed to pieces among the rapids, and finally 
carried over the awful precipice. Some of the fragments of the 
boat and casks were found below the falls; and one of the dead 
bodies was found, in a very mangled state, on lake Ontario, 1 1 
miles from land. The canoe was carried over with two men in it, 
and one of the dead bodies was found below with both legs off. 

Ducks and geese are sometimes carried over ; and though they 
save themselves from utter destruction by flight, they are found 
below so ?tunned that they cannot fly, and are caught with ease 
on the banks. There is a fine fishery in the water below the fails 
and in the rapids. 

Having stopped some time at Grand Niagara, we went to a ta- 
vern at iort Schlosser, where we passed the night- 

Thc subject of navigable canals having of late excited a great 
degree of attention in the United States, 1 resolved, at setting 
out, to pay a little attention to it, and have accordingly noticed it 
occasionally in the course of tins work. From an early investi- 
gation of the subject, it appeared to me, that a canal of much im- 
portance could be made between this place and Lewistown, so as 
to continue the chain of communication from the river St. Law- 
rence along the lakes. There is a natural harbour formed at fort 
Schlosc.er by an eddy in the river, and the ground is pretty level 
to the extremity of the land above Lewistov.n. £^ ample supply 
of water could be procured from the river, to make up for the 
waste in descending the locks ; so that it is perfectly practicable to 




^ 






( 




r 



KKW YORK. 509 

make a canal. The distance is about nine miles, and the canal 
would require to be sufficiently large to admit of sloop navigation. 
But it appears, by a late survey and report of commissioners ap- 
pointed by the state of New York, that the utility of such a canal 
may be superceded by a more profitable line to run between the 
Niagara river and Albany. I shall, therefore, here merely tran- 
scribe the estimate for making a canal at this place, from the 
secretary of the treasury's report on canals and roads, and defer 
a further consideration of the subject until I reach Utica or Al- 
bany, when I shall have travelled over the greater part of the 
ground through which it is proposed the canal shall run. 

" The fall from lake Erie to lake Ontario has been already 
stated at 450 feet. A company had been incorporated by the 
state of New York for the purpose ofopenmga canal at this place, 
but it does not appear that any thing ever was attempted after the 
survey' had been made. The intention seems to have been to 
open a canal navigation for boats only, from Fort Schlosser to 
Devil's Hole. The lake itself and Giles' creek would have sup- 
plied the water, and the expense was estimated at 437,000 dollars* 

" It is however, evident that the canal, in order to be as emi- 
nently useful as the nature of the undertaking seems to require, 
should be on such a scale as to admit vessels which can navigate 
both lakes. Considering the distance, which, in that case, must 
be extended to about 10 miles, and the lockage of 450 feet, it is 
not believed that the expence can be estimated at less than 1,000,000* 
doUar*." 



y^' 



CHAPTER C. 

Leave Fort Schlosser, — Tonewanta creek, Batavia. 

-N^OVEMBER 1st. The morning was cool and foggy. I part- 
ed with my friends at nine o'clock, and set forward on my jour- 
ney. At a short distance from the tavern where I lodged, I pass- 
ed Fort Schlosser, or rather the scite of it; for nothing now re-, 
mains but the under part, sufficiently prominent to distinguish- 
what was its form and dimensions. 

From thence to Tonewanta creek is 12 miles, and the road 
runs near the side of the river all the way. On this road there ift 



510 TRAVELS IN 

a fine view of the river, of Grand Island, and the Canada shor«. 
There is a small island at the mouth of the Tonewanta creek, 
which is here joined by another stream called Ellicott's crec^k. 
The river is here above half a mile wide, and the east bank i« 
mostly level rich land. 

Having crossed the creek by a wooden bridge, I left the Buffa- 
lo road. I perceived a new line of road, cut through the woods, 
leading toward Batavia, but I was informed it was impassible^ 
and took an old path %vhich passed a considerable way along the 
south bank of Ellicott's creek, here a slow deep stream, with very 
fertile banks. On leaving the creek I travelled through the 
woods, four miles, by the worst road I had ever seen, before I 
came to any house, and I then found a few poor settlements with- 
in about half a mile of each other, all the way to the turn- 
pike, about six miles from the mouth of Tonewanta creek. 
The road was in some places so bad, that my horse sometime* 
sunk 4o the knees, and at one time it was with considerable dif- 
ficulty that I got it disengaged. The settlers whom I spoke v^ith 
were nearly all sick, a natural effect in the first settlement of a 
low swampy country ; but the lands here are rich, and when drain- 
ed will form a good situation. 

When I reached the turnpike road, I was quite surprised to 
Ifind the country so r^ell settled. Not many years ago it was an 
entire wilderness : now the houses are so thick along the road, 
that the traveller is never out of sight of one, and inns are to be 
found at the end of every two or three miles. The road runs a- 
long a sort of limestone i idge, and to the north the soil is com- 
posed of a fine black vegetable mould, which raises grain and 
grass in profusion. 

About a mile and a half from whore I entered on the turnpike I 
crossed Ellicott's creek, here a pretty, clear stream, having fall* 
and mills not far from the road. I was informed that the lands 
on the road side are laid cut in lots, of half a mile in front by a 
mile back, each containing 320 acres. They are all taken up, 
and most of them are under cultivation. The price is from 6 to 
18 dollars, according to quality and degree of improvement. A 
great number of the settlers here aie Germans, from near Lan- 
caster, Pennsylvania. 

In my progress I met several families moving to the westward, 
and a number of travellers, from distant places, in quest of land. 



NEW YORlt. 511 

I Stopped at dark at a tavern, 19 miles from Buffalo. I was there 
informed that the country was mostly settled by people from Penn- 
sylvania, who were good farmers, and though they looked poor, 
they generally had a good deal of money. At the early part of 
the settlement, the country had been a good deal troubled with 
bears and wolves, but they had now disappeared, and sheep had 
been introduced, and were thriving well. Lands are held un- 
cleared at from five to seven dollars, on the road ; a little back at 
three dollars. Last spring they took a sudden rise, which had 
checked the progress of settlement, the new settlers passing over to 
New Connecticut ; and this will continue to be the case unless the 
price be reduced. The landlord had been on Grand Island, in 
the Niagara river, which he describes as a body of excellent land. 

November 2d. I set forward on my journey at six o'clock; the 
morning was cloudy, with a slight frost. I travelled six miles to 
breakfast, through a low muddy tract of land. Part of the road 
was a causeway of timber, and very rough . The tavern where I 
etopped was a neat clean house, and announced comfort and good 
cheer. On entering the breakfast room, a gentleman dressed in 
black sat at table, and frequently viewed me with such a gracious 
smile in his aspect, that it brought to my recollection the " sweet 
voices and smiling faces" mentioned by Red Jacket. At last, 
breaking silence, he accosted me. " Are you from New York, 
pray, sir ?" " Yes sir," replied I. After some common-place 
conversation, he observed, " New York seems to me to be highly 
favoured with divines." — As I object to the titles of the Almighty 
being applied to any set of men, I wished to waive the subject ; 
but he seemed determined to improve the time, and ran on with 
a variety of observations on the clergy of New York, and circum- 
stances connected with the clerical profession generally; and, rising 
up, he repeated with much emphasis the charge of the apostle 
Paul to Timothy, which having finished, he called for his horse, 
and rode off. 1 learned that he was a missionary preacher, and is 
probably the same whom Red Jacket addressed in May last. 

After breakfast I continued my journey, through a level coun- 
try, abounding with small swamps, but the soil was good; and 10 
miles from the tavern reached Tonnewanta creek, which I passed 
by a bridge, and travelled along its left bank four miles to Batavia, 
of which the elegant court-house has & beautiful appearance at a 
dist&nce. 



m 



513 TRAVELS IN 

Batavia being the place for transacting the business of the Hol- 
land land company, I waited on Mr. Ellicott, the agent, who 
favoured me with a great variety of useful information. 

This district, commonly called the Holland Purchase, extends 
From Lake Ontario to the Pennsylvania line on the south, 
and from Pennsylvania line on the west, to the banks of 
the Genessee on the east. Its extreme length from east to 
west is about 96 miles, and the breadth front north to south is 
nearly as much ; but the lakes and Upper Canada cut off a large 
portion from the square on the west side, and a considerable por- 
tion is cut off on the north-east side by other purchases towards 
the Genessee river. The remainder amounts to about 6200 
square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 acres; but from this are to be 
deducted the Indian reservations, and the New York state reser- 
vation, making together about 250,000 acres, leaving to this com- 
pany 3,750,000, being by far the largest tract of land ever held 
by any land company in this country. 

The general configuration of the country may be inferred from 
the account of that part through which I travelled. Towards the 
borders of the state it is hilly ; from thence to within eight miles of 
lake Ontario, it is a high plain, in most places undulating, and 
agreeably uneven ; in others nearly level : to the north ot the 
ridge, eight miles from lake Ontario, it is almost quite level to 
the lake. 

The soil is generally fertile, the whole being nearly similar to 
that described, except in the southern district, where it is rather 
rough. It seems to be rather defective in minerals, but is abun- 
dantly supplied with springs and streams of watei- ; and there are 
several salt-springs, and some air and oil-springs. 

The Holland company have adopted very judicious measures 
m settling up the lands, and have expended vast sums of money 
on roads, bridges, buildings, and improvements ; but the country 
is now rapidly settling up, and the purchase is likely to turn out 
a very favourable speculation. 

The settlers are mostly from New England, and they give the 
tone to the manners and habits of the people, which are nearly as- 
similated to those of the New England states, though they are 
interspersed with Germans, and with emigrants from Ireland and 
Scotland. The inhabitants are mostl}' farmers and mechanics} 
there are no manufactures on a large scale, but there are a great 



NEW YORK. 



513 



number of carding machines, and the people mostly make their 
own clothing. There are no reserves for schools ; but education 
is pretty well attended to by the inhabitants, who, whenever 10 
families are settled near each other, associate and procure a 
school-master. The district is divided into five counties, contain- 
ing 23,557 inhabitants. 

There are no towns of any importance in the district. The 
country houses exhibit a similar appearance to those in New Eng- 
land, being built of wood, and painted white. Many of them are 
beautiful, and display an elegant taste. 

The country is well supplied with pretty good roads, of which 
the great state road, already mentioned, is the chief. There are 
abundance of good taverns by the way, which accommodate pas- 
sengers on reasonable terms. The pi'incipal market is on the lake, 
and it is believed by the people here that it will always continue to 
be so ; they seem, so far as I have yet collected their sentiments, to 
consider the projected canal as of no importance to them ; and the 
most prevalent opinion, indeed, is that it is impracticable, and that 
the scheme will be abandoned. At present the emigrants who are 
pouring into the country and travelling to the westward, take up a 
great part of the surplus produce. 

The present price of the company's lands is 3 dollars 50 cents 
per acre, of which 5 per cent, is payable in cash, and the remainder, 
being divided into 6 instalments, is payable at 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 
years, with interest for the last 6 years ; but if the purchaser neg- 
lects to make certain improvements the first year, he is then subject 
to pay interest from the date of sale. The above, however, is only 
the general retail price to settlers; there are many tracts which 
would be sold for less : and a colony of settlers who could purchase 
ia whole township could be accommodated on favourable terms. 
Twenty per cent, discoimt is allowed for cash. 

Batavia consists of about 50 houses, a court-house, 4 taverns, 4 
stores, and a grist mill. It was laid out in lots of 20 rods in front, 
by 1 mile deep, and sold originally for 5 dollars per acre, the pur- 
chaser being bound to clear 5 aci'es in front the first year after the 
purchase. In consequence of the decay of so much vegetable mat- 
ter, it was at first unhealthy in the summer and fall ; but of late it 
.has been healthy. This last summer, however, there were some ca- 
ses of typhus fever ; but not of a very fatal tendency, and it did not 
spread. 



514 TRAVELS IK 

Farmers and mechanics are best adapted to the country, and if 
they arc industrious they are sure to succeed. A farmer can get a 
f{uarter section of land, 160 acres, for 560 dollars, with eight years 
to pay it. If he is industrious, he may have the whole cleared and 
cultivated like a garden by the end of that time; when, in conse- 
quence of the rise on property, by the increase of population, and 
the cultivation by his individual industry, his land may be worth SO 
dollars per acre, or 8000 dollars; besides his stock of cattle, &c., 
which may be worth half as much more. Mechanics are well paid 
for their labour; carpenters have 1 dollar per day and their board; 
if they board themselves, 1 dollar 25 cents. Other trades have in 
proportion, and living is cheap. Flour is about 5 dollars per bar- 
rel, beef 4 cents per lb., fowls 12^ cents each, fish are plenty and 
cheap. A mechanic can thus earn as much in two days as will main- 
tain a family for a week ; and by vesting the surplus in houses and 
lots in a judicious manner, he may accumulate money as fast as the 
farmer, and both may be independent and happy. Indeed, these 
two classes cannot too highly prize the blessings they enjoy in this 
country, nor be sufficiently grateful to the almighty Disposer of all 
events, for casting their lot in a land where they have advantages 
-so far transcending what the same classes have in any other. I know 
there are many who hold a different opinion ; but I must take the 
liberty to dissent from it, and the reader who has travelled with me 
thus far, will allow that my opinion is not founded either on a par- 
tial or prejudiced view of the subject ; it is deduced from plain un- 
varnished facts, which no reasoning can set aside, nor sophistry in- 
validate, I know that there are many wealthy and respectable farm- 
ers, mechanics, and manufacturers in the old countries ; but I speak 
of the mass of the people — the laboui'ers. Wherever their situa- 
tion is contrasted with that of the same class here, it will be found 
that the contrast is greatly in favour of America. In those countries 
where the feudal system prevails, the lands are nearly all entailed 
on the great families, who, being the lords of the soil, are also the 
lords of the laws. The farmer must pay a high rent annually for 
the use of his farm : he may get a lease, perhaps, for a number of 
years; but he is bound to cultivate the ground in the way prescrib- 
ed by the tenure of that lease. If he improves the farm, the im- 
provements are for anothei' — not for him; and it often happens, 
that at the end of the lease, if another is willing to give one shilling 
iuore than him, or if the proprietor has a favourite, or wishes to turn 



NEW YORK. 515 

two or more farms into one, or has taken umbrage at his politics, 
or his religion, or any thing else regarding him or his family, he 
will not get a renewal of the lease. I have known families to have 
been ruined in this way. Being turned out of their farm, they re- 
tire to a town or city, where their substance is soon spent, and they 
pine away in poverty and wretchedness, and at last find a happy re- 
lief in the cold grave ! 

Compare this with the situation of the American farmer. He 
cultivates his own soil, or if he has none he can procure it in suffi- 
cient quantity for 200 or 300 dollars. If he has no money, he can 
get credic ; and all that is necessary to redeem his credit is to put 
forth his hand and be industrious. He can stand erect on the mid- 
dle of his farm and say : " This ground is mine : from the highest 
canopy of heaven down to the lowest depths, I can claim all that I 
can get possession of within these bounds — fowls of the air, fish of 
the sea, and all that pass through the same !" And having a full 
share of consequence in the political scale, his equal rights are gua- 
ranteed to him. None dare encroach upon him ; he can sit under 
his own vine, and under his own fig-tree, and none to make him 
afraid. 

Look at the mechanic and manufacturer : In America they can 
iearn from 6 to 9 dollars per week, and have provisions so reasonable 
that they can maintain themselves in ease and affluence, and accu- 
mulate property for old age and for their offspring ; while in some 
of the old countries they can only earn about as many shillings, 
while provisions are so dear, that it is with difficulty they can sup- 
port a wretched existence. Their case is wretched, indeed, under 
those governments, which by a refinement of cruelty have entailed 
this further curse upon them — that except b}' stealth, they cannot, 
they dare not leare the country. 



CHAPTER CI. 

Leave Batavia, — Genesee rivei; — Cmiandaigua. 

JL HERE is something in an extensive country that is calculated 
to enlarge the mind, and to steel the body against the fatigues in- 
cident to a loiig journey. I had now travelled upwards of 2000 
miles in the space of 12 weeks, during which I do not think I wa^ 



'516 TRAVELS IN 

an hour idle. Both body and mind had been incessantly occupied, 
yet I felt little fatigue; the recollection of the scenery I had passed 
over, the vast variety of useful information I had collected, the per- 
petual succession of fresh objects, and the collective view, in my mind's 
eye, of such an extended country, under such a mild government, 
all conspired to produce sensations gratifying in the highest degree ; 
and 1 am a convert to that part ot the Brimonian system, which 
attributes support to the body from salutary stimulus on the mind. 
It was as natural for me to rise at the dawn of day as to call for my 
breakfast ; if I met with company on the road, I spoke to them ; if 
they vvcre going the same way, I entered into conversaiion, and sel- 
dom failed to get something worth putting on record. If I travel- 
led alone, I had an ample fund for meditation and reflection. When 
I stopped, my meals were short, and the remaining part of the in- 
terval of rest was employed in inquiry and recording. My even- 
ings, excepting the time that was necessary to see my horse taken 
care of, were spent in the same way, often till 11 or 12 o'clock. It 
was gratifying to reflect that I had travelled in the United States 
upwards of 7000 miles, almost a stranger in the country, without 
any other passport than decent respect to the inhabitants, which I 
uniformly met with in return. And here I cannot but express my 
surprise at the invective and ill-natured remarks that I have seen in 
the writings of some travellers through this country. As to their 
general sweeping conclusions, we may pass them over as the mere 
effusions of ignorant spleen ; but the particular instances of rude- 
ness and ungracious reception they have met with, merit more at- 
tention : the records are so many stigmas upon their own conduct. 
Strangers may meet with instances of rudeness and rough treat- 
ment in America — plenty of them ; the American people will not 
tamely submit to an insult, neither collectively nor individually ; 
and a traveller will not find it to his comfort to proceed by cursing 
the waiter for doing this, and damning the hostler for not doing that, 
and threatening to send Boots to hell, if his leathern conveniencies 
are not so clear as he can see his shadow in them. Some people 
are accustomed to travel in that way at " omc ;" but if they should 
happen to set out on a tour through America in the same style, 
they will soon have to record the trophies of their own imprudence. 
There are no waiters, nor hostlers, nor Boots' here, in the same 
sense as in Britain; they are all freemen, equal in the eye of the 
law, and in the scale of right. They know their power in the body 



NEW YORK. 517 

politic, and will not relinquish it ; and a traveller can only expect 
to be comfortable by adopting a suavity of manners calculated to 
secure the good will of all ; oi*, as the apostle Paul expresses him- 
self, by " becoming all things to all men." 

In this humour I left Batavia, on the 3d of November, after a 
pretty heavy I'ain, the day damp and chilly. I rode six miles to 
Black creek, on which there are falls and good mill-seats, two miles 
below the road. Four miles more brought me to Le Roy, situated 
on Allen's creek. I was informed the place had been somewhat 
sickly, the more remarkable, because it is on high open land ; but 
I could perceive the cause in a large mill-pond, with the stumps of 
trees standing in it. People should, if possible, avoid making mill- 
ponds close by their dwelling houses ; or if they do, they should, in 
mercy to themselves, first take out all the wood, and leave nothing 
to rot in the water. There are 75 feet falls in this creek, two and 
a half miles from the road. 

I travelled six miles more to M'Donald's tavern, and was inform- 
ed that there was a Scots settlement, called Caledonia, about four 
miles off the road. Indeed Mr. Ellicott had mentioned it to me be- 
fore. The settlers are much respected for their industry, sobriety, 
and integrity. Some of them are represented as not being very nice 
in the article of cleanliness, a circumstance, I must confess, too com- 
mon among the Scottish peasantry ; but their solid good qualities 
speak volumes in their fiivoiir ; and pursuing agriculture in Ame- 
rica, they will, no doubt, soon correct a fault, which, though not 
immoral, is disagreeable. 

From hence to Genesee river is nine miles, part of the way throu"^h 
large openings, and towards the river is an Indian reservation, con- 
taining a great deal of excellent bottom land. The river is here 
a considerable stream ; but very muddy, with vast quantities of de- 
caying vegetable matter about its banks, which sufficiently accounts 
for the sickness on it ; but it has a fine descent, and the banks admit 
of being drained, so that the sickness will be only temporary; while 
the fine bottoms on it will insure a large and very rich settlement. 
There are four large falls upon the river. Two of them, 50 miles 
from the lake, precipitate the water 90 and 60 — together, 150 feet ; 
and two more, on the continuation of the ridge from Lcwistown, six 
miles from the lake, throw it down 75 and 96 — together, 171, — in 
all 321 feet. This shows that the configuration of the country has 
undergone a change from the falls of Niagara. The table land seems 
to fall one-half, about 50 miles from Lake Ontario. 



618 



TRAVELS IN 



After crossing the river by a pretty good bridge, I rose by a fine 
elevated bank to a little village called Avon. I was now in Ontario 
county, and was surprised at the degree of cultivation it had under- 
gone. Though all settled within 20 years, it looked like an old 
country. The houses were good, and the fields fertile. But I 
was, above all, delighted with the fine views which appeared 
every where around me. I had long travelled through low land, 
and the country so much covered with wood, that I had little dis- 
tant prospect : but here the country swells out into large ridges, 
and is sufficiently cleared to see, in some places, to a great dis- 
tance. Night came on, and I hurried to a tavern, six miles from 
the river, where I stopped all night. 

I was informed at the tavern that there was a pretty good har- 
bour at the outlet of the Genesee river, to which there was a good 
road, distant about 35 miles. The price of wheat there was 75 
cents ber bushel, and flour in proportion. A custom-house is si- 
tuated at the outlet of the river, and a vessel had lately been seized, 
having smuggled goods on board, to the value of 50,000 dollar?. 
Some improved farms on the road have lately been sold as high 
as 40 dollars per acre. 

November 4th. Clear and hard frost. — I started before sun- 
rise, and passed through an open country, rather hilly, but the 
soil all ai'able, five miles to Honeoye creek, a pretty little stream, 
which issues out of a lake of the same name a few miles to the 
south, where there are three more lakes, all pretty sheets of water, 
which add much to the beauty of this charming country. I was 
now in the township of Bloomfield, and passed a handsome little 
village, with an elegant church and spire, exhibiting an appear- 
ance very much resembling those in New England, from whence 
the greater number of the settlers here have originated. I passed 
on through a fine swelling, open country, with good soil, 6 miles 
more, to another village, and here I stopped for breakfast. 

This is also a very pretty village, adorned with a handsome 
church and spire. 1 was informed that this place began to settle 
about 21 years ago; the original temporary houses have nearly 
all given way to elegant frame and brick houses, and the whole 
settlement indicated wealth, and rapid improvement. Land in 
the neighbourhood is good, and sells by the improved farm at 30 
dollars an acre. From a height above the tavern, I had a fine 
view, extending to the north and north-east 30 miles. 



KEW YORK. 519 

From Bloomfield to Canandaigua, the road passes over a fine 
rich country, abounding in splendid view?, foi* seven miles. On 
entering Canandaigua, I was really surprised at the beauty of the 
place, and the surrounding scenery. The lake to the south, and 
the scenery arovmd it, forms one of the most beautiful landscapes 
to be seen any where ; and to the north, on the brow of an elevat- 
ed swelling country, stands the village ; which for beauty of situa- 
tion, and elegance of buildings, is decidedly the handsomest vil- 
lage I have ever vet seen. 

Having a letter of introduction to Mr. Seymour of this place, 
a gentleman whom I became acquainted with in Scotland 14 years 
ago, 1 travelled through a spacious street to his house, where I 
received a hospitable v/elcome, and remained two days. 

Canandaigua was laid out from 20 to 21 years ago. The main 
street is 130 feet wide, and extends south and north a mile and a 
balf, and there is a centre square, and several cross streets ; but 
the principal buildings are on the main street. The village lots 
are 22 rods in front by 66 deep, having outlots of 30 acres an- 
nexed to them ; and this ground, which was bought 20 years aoro 
for from one to two dollars an acre, is now, by the in)prove- 
ments, and progress of settlement, worth from 500 to 1000 dollars 
per acre for the village lots, and from 80 to 100 for the outlots. 
The ground is rich, and all arable. 

Canandaigua consists of about 120 houses, containing about 600 
inhabitants. There is a handsome brick court-house in the centre 
square, a jail, and, on the most elevated ground of the village, an 
elegant academy, exhibiting at a distance a beautiful appearance. 
There is no church, but an elegant one, for which funds are pro- 
vided, is about to be built. I have before noticed that the houses 
are handsome: they are mostly of wood, painted white; but a 
good many have of late been built of brick, which are best calcu- 
lated for this part of the country. 

As Canandaigua is in the centre of a remarkably well settled 
country, it has a very considerable retail trade, and supports six 
stores, many of which do a great deal of business ; and there are 
six taverns. A great deal of land business is transacted here, of 
which my friend Mr. Seymour has a large shai'c. 

I have uniformly noticed, throughout ray travels, that a settle- 
ment in a good soil and favor.rable climate never fiiils to succeed, 
whether it is near a market or not; whereas a settlement in an 



520 TRAVELS IN 

unfavourable soil, or unhealthy climate, however favourable its 
situation for commerce, is precarious, and subject to great vicissi- 
tudes. The balance of chances is against it. Numerous instances 
occur in the course of this work to confirm both these positions. 
A very striking one of the former exists in this place. Canan- 
daigua is far from a market-,s yet it flourishes in a very eminent 
degree ; the people have not foreign commerce, but, what is in- 
finitely more valuable, they have elegant fields, and orchards, and 
flocks, and herds, and pure air and fine water, and freedom from 
the pollution and contamination of great commercial cities. This 
is principsilly an agricultural village; the most of the people have 
everything within themselves, and provisions are very reasonable: 
flour five dollars per barrel ; beef, mutton, and veal three to five 
cents per pound, and other things in proportion. There are 
good mechanics in the village, in the various branches calculated 
for the country, and they have good wages. 7Vo tan-yards and 
two distilleries are the principal manufactories ; there is but little 
done in the household way in the village, but a great deal is done 
in the country. 

The inhabitants are mostly h-om New England, and the young- 
ladies, with whom the village abounds, exhibit the appearance of the 
Yankee ladies, in a new and beautiful edition, with great im- 
])rovemcnts. There is really fine a society at Canandaigua. Of the 
learned professors they have an ample supply — indeed I should be 
inclined to think that six doctors and six lawyers were too many ; 
but it is to be recollected, thiit in an agricultural village they arc 
not dependent on their professions alone, but can have their pi'in- 
cipal supply from their farms, and use their calling principally as 
a recreation. Some of the country lawyers are editors of news- 
])apers, and write remarkably well; and as almost every district, 
or village, has a paper on each side of the great political question, 
it is in no danger of turning stale for want of stii'ring; there are 
two newspapers here, one on each side, and they battle the watch 
most stoutly. 

Though last mentioned, not last in estimation, education is well 
attended to, as it is every where, when the settlement consists 
principally of New Englanders. The academy is endowed with 
5000 acres of land, and schools are on such a footing that all have 
access to them. 

The view cf the country round Canandaigua, which may in- 



NEW YORK. 521 

deed include the whole county of Ontario, is valuable, as it throws 
light upon the future destinies of that part of America often 
known by name of the hack xvoods, or the wilderness. 

The county of Ontario is about 44< miles long, by 40 broad, 
and contains about 1760 square miles of territory, from which we 
may deduct 60 miles for water. Twenty years ago this was a 
wilderness ; but the wilderness has truly been made to become a 
fruitful field, and to blossom like the rose. It now contains 
42,026 inhabitants, being nearly 25 to the square mile ; and they 
are rapidly increasing in numbei's, in wealth, in agriculture, in 
manufactures, and the mechanic arts. There are in the county 
1903 looms, 37 tan-works, 76 distilleries, 20 fulling mills, and 22 
carding machines, besides some glass works and potteries ; and I 
learned that cotton and woollen factories were projected near 
Canandaigua. 

Land, which was bought 20 years ago at 1 dollar an acre, 
may now be sold in some places at 50 dollars ; the average price 
of land, partly cleared, may be about 8 to 25 dollars, uncleared 
-t to 6 dollars; but in the vicinity of villages nearly 10 dollars. 
Horses 4-0 to 75 dollars, cows 20, and sheep 2 dollars. 

The vast increase of wealth in this county may be inferred from 
this circumstance — that Canandaigua, the scite of which 20 years 
ago would have been reckoned dear at 2000 dollars, was estimated 
at the value of 212,485 dollars in 1809, and it has greatly in- 
creased since : probably the properly is now worth 500,000 dollars. 



CHAPTER ClI. 

Leave Canandaigua, — A Smo/dng Scene, — Geneva. 

On the afternoon of the 6th November, the weather cool and 
cloudy, I took leave of Mr. Seymour's agreeable family, with a 
view of traveUing to Geneva that evening, distant 16 miles; but 
the road was heavy, and I was obliged to stop at a tavern, six 
miles short of the village. 

The fire was not lighted in the parlour, and 1 sat down at the 
fire in the bar-room, and began to write my notes. But I did 
not long enjoy repose in this situation ; a man came in and li<rht- 
cd his segar, and turning his backside to the fire, he whiiled 

66 



BSf TRAVELS IN 

away, at the end of every two or three puffs squirting a mouthful 
of saliva through the rooin. He was soon joined by a second and 
a third, when they made a little circle round the fire. Thev 
all had se^ars, and I was soon enveloped in smoke, and obliged 
to shut my papers. Three others came in and joined the party. 
One took a large roll of tobacco out of his pocket, and taking an 
immense quid, he rolled it about in his mouth, and squirted a- 
bout the saliva in all directions, without paying much regard to 
who might come in contact with it. Another pulled a pipe out 
of his pocket, and the third joined the segar-smokers. I never 
was so annoyed with smoking and spitting in my life. I like to 
see singular scenes occasionally, even though they should be rough 
ones ; but this scene of smoking, and chewing, and spitting, was 
too rough. The smokers were also nasty in the highest degree, 
and seemetl to pay no attention to where they spat ; in the fire, on 
the hearth, or the floor; the face, the neck, or the pocket r 
it was all one. I withdrew from the scene, and, albeit it was a 
very cold night, I was fain to sit down in the furthest corner of 
the room, by a broken window. But this did not secure me a- 
gainst the smokers ; two of them got up and marched through the 
floor, smoking and spitting, and I was finally obliged to abandon 
the scone and seek refuge elsewhere. By this time there was a 
fire in the supper parlour, and, soon after, supper was announced. 
After supper, I began to write up my notes, when two of the 
sm.okers lighted their segars beside me, and began to smoke and 
spit almost in my face. At last one of them perceived me m tk- 
ing wry faces, and said, " I'm afraid the smoking disturbs you." 
" A little," said I, my face sufficiently indicative of my feelings* 
On which they very civilly withdrew, and left me in quiet pos- 
session of a good clean parlour, the value of which was enhanced 
by the dirty scene I had endured. 

I have often been surprised how men should get into the habit 
of using tobacco in any shape, but especially in the way of chew- 
ing and smoking. It is disagreeable to the taste, and must re- 
«juire a painful effort to learn the use of it ; when learned, it ha«, 
in most instances, a very pernicious effect upon the body. It is 
a powerful stimulus, but its principal effect is on the glands, the 
result an immediate discharge of saliva by the mouth, which na- 
ture intended for the stomach. The waste must be supplied, and 
Hiwst of my readers know how. The medical piirt of them can 



NEW YORK. 523 

tell which is the more beneficial to health, the stimulus which 
nature has provided, or tliat of human invention — grog. " God 
made man upright, but they have sought out many inventions." 

November 7th. The morning being calm, cool, and cloudy, I 
set Forward on my journey a little after day-break, and travelled 
by an indifferent I'oad, but leading through a fertile and well -set- 
tled country, to Geneva, which I reached to breakfast. The 
view here is not so commanding jis at Canandaigua, but it is equally 
pretty, and the Seneca lake is much more extensive than tlie lake 
at Canandaigua. The road leads right towai'ds tlie banks of the. 
lake, wliich is handsomely skirted with gardens and inclosures, 
along which the road turns towards an elegant tavern, bsflonging 
to the Pulteney estate, and kept by a Mr.Powel, an English - 
ftian. There I stopped. 

After breakfast I was proceeding to make some inquiries of the 
landlord, and, among other questions, asked if he knew Mr. Fellows, 
an Englishman, and the intimate friend of some of my acquain- 
tances in New York. He told me that he was in the village, and 
sat at the breakfast-table with me. I was rejoiced at this account, 
and immediately waited on him at the land office, where I got 
a great variety of information. I was urged to stay some time; 
but the season was far advanced^ and I was afraid of not being 
in Albany in time to go down the river by the steam-boat. I 
pleaded ray excuse, and after walking roundlhe village, and get- 
ting an explanation of a great number of particulars regarding it, 
I got my hoi'se in order to depart, and my fi*iend acompanied me 
to call upon some Scotsmen in the neighbouriiood. The first 
was a Mr. Scott, who has been settled here a consideraiile num- 
ber of yeara, and has a fine improving farm, of great value, at 
the head of the lake. From thence we set out, Mr. Scott ac- 
companying us, to see Mr. Grieve, situated also at the head of the 
lake, not far from Mr. Scott. But I did not get away from here in 
such a hurrj- : we were obliged to come into the house, and make a 
libation to the honour of the aiildlady that sits upon the " craps 
o* heather.'^ The Scottish stories went round; the time wheeled 
away; and finally, 1 was told it was quite too late to think of 
travelling any more that day ; I must take a bed at Mr. Gricve's. 
I liked my company, and was not vL^y difficult to persuade; 
and "please the lord Harry," as squire Western said, "wehnd 
a night o't." 



524 TRAVELS IN 

Mr. Grieve had some fine peach-brandy, which soon brought up 
all under the influence of the same spirit ; " the night drave on wi' 
sangs and clatter" till a late hour, when, " all parties pleased," 
our friends took their leave, appointing to meet in the morning to 
breakfast. 

Our morning conversation principally related to the more im- 
mediate business for which I undertook the journey ; and I got 
some important additional information regarding this part of the 
country, the substance of which I shall condense in a few remarks, 
and close this chapter. 

Geneva is situated at tlie west side of the north end of Seneca 
lake, on a level bank, elevated about 20 feet above the water. It 
is regularly laid out in streets and lots, with a square in the centre. 
The main street is 6 rods wide, and the lots are three-fouths of an 
acre, and worth, at present, from 200 to 2000 dollars. The out- 
lots consist of 8 acres. Those that range next the village are 
worth from 30 to 60 dollars per acre. 

The village consists of about 200 houses, containir^ about 1000 
inhabitants ; and they are fast increasing. Th*^ mai kets are near- 
ly the same as at Canandaigua : house rent for mechanics is about 
50 dollars per annum ; wood 1 dollar 25 cents per cord, laid down ; 
flour 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt. ; beef, mutton, &c. 3 to 5 cents 
per lb. ; poultry 6 cents per lb. ; mechanics' board 2 dollars per week. 

Tlierc are two tan-works and 3 distilleries; and a brewery is e- 
recting, and will soon be in operation. There are 3 hatters, 3 
blacksmiths, 3 masons, 12 carpenters, 2 cabinet-makers, 2 watch- 
makers and silver-smiths, and two apothecaries. Blacksmiths, 
masons, carpenters, and cabinet-makers are in request, and would 
meet with good encouragement. Wages may be quoted : masons 
1 dollar 50 cents per day ; carpenters^the same ; labourers 1 dollar; 
smith's work is 25 cents per lb. 

The face of the country here is agreeably uneven, and beauti- 
fully diversified. The most prominent object is Seneca lake, which 
is not only ornamental, but highly useful; affording a water con- 
veyance its whole length, nearly 50 miles. It joins Crooked lake 
by a streau), and the outlet is by a fine river in the neighbourhood, 
of this place. The waters of the lake are very deep, and do not 
freeze in winter, although the cold is sometimes very intense. It 
abounds with fish, such as salmon, trout, &c. 

The soil is various, but a great deal of it is good. The timber 



HKW YORK. 325 

is beech, maple, o&k, hickory, black walnut, &c. ; and a good deal 
of hemlock grows along the banks of the lake. 

The Pulteney estate sells from 2 to 4 dollars an acre, on a credit 
of from 4 to 7 years, and interest from the date of sale. The set- 
tlers are very mixed, consisting of Yankees, English, Scottish, and 
Dutch : and they are generally doing well. On one township 
there is a colony of English settlers, who are thriving remarkably 
well. They came to the settlement very poor, and are getting 
wealthy ; and, thankful for the blessings they enjoy, they are good 
republicans. They have improved in morals and intellect since 
their settlement here, and, as they have adopted the manners of 
the country, they are much respected by their neighbours. 

Sheep thrive remarkably well. The South Down breed has 
been introduced with good effect, and, latterly, the merino breed, 
of which colonel Troup, tl)e agent, has sent 4 rams for the use of 
the settlement. 

The woollen manufacture is general in families, and there are se- 
veral carding and roving machines. A glass-work has been recent- 
Jy erected on the banks of the lake, and several cotton and woollen 
factories are projected. The spirit is general for encouraging do- 
mestic manufactures; and good builders and machine-makers are 
in great demand. 

The principal articles for sale are wheat and ashes, which are 
carried to Montreal and Albany ; and cattle are carried to New 
York and Philadelphia. The imports are dry-goods, groceries 
iron-ware, and crockery. 

1 received from Mr. Scott a register of the weather, kept by 
liim in the years 1799 and 1800, from which I make the following 
abstract. Geneva is near the centre, and may be considered as af- 
fording a pretty fair view of the climate of the western part of the 
state of New York. 



5S6i 



TRAVELS IS 





Tliermometer. 


Weather. 


Winds. i 


1-^ 
f 


o 




mo 

r 1 Q- 


Pi 


O! 


5» 


.:^ 


s; 


Z 


, 


W 


^ 




% 


•* 






v: 






»< 
<; 




^ 




.W 




w 


1799. 




1 






1 


















September, 


80**, 50*^ 69° 


9 


5 


3 


3 


6 


5 


4 








1 


October, 


61 


31 


52 


11 


10 


3' 


2 


1 


7 


9 


6 








November, 


50 


28 


41 


10 


M 


1' 4 


3 


4 


7 


11 


2 








December 


42 


6 


30 


9 


9 


1 7 


3 


3 


7 


■ s 


1 


4 






1800. 






























January, 


40 


6 


25 


11 


i.-; 


4 


3 3 


6 


10 










Februaryi 


49 


5 


26 


12 


5 


'10 


i 


7 


10 


11 








March, 


44 


i8 


35 


9 


10 


2I 5 


9; 


5 


11 


1 








April, 


74 


39 


55 


^1 


6 


6, 1 


5 


10 


e 






1 




Mayi 


75 


48 


61 


lo' 


4 


3 




5 6 


6 


:_: 










June, 


85 


55 


71 


15 


1 


2 




5 5 


5 


^ 


I 








July. 


92 


63 


82 


15, 


5 


1 




8 2 


4 


6 


1 
















1208'! 22,51 


4S28 67 


82 


23 


4 


I 


1 



The month of August was not inserted in the raster , but it 
may be reckoned nearly the same as June, or a medium between 
June and July. 

The first snow was on the 1st of November, 

The coldest day was on the 10th of February, wind north, and 
clear» 

The snow was deepest on the 15th of Februa,ry, being 4 feet.* 

it thundered on the 18th of March. 

Pigeons were seen upon the 25th of March. 

Grass appeared upon the 4th of April. 

Maple-tree leaves appeared on the 19th. 

The warmest day was on the 10th of July, wind west. 

The prevailing winds are south, south-west, west and north west. 

The north-west winds are frequently accompanied with clouds 
and rain, and the south and south-west winds are frequently clear 
and dry. The reasons are obvious : the great lakes have a tenden- 
cy to affect the one, while the mountains affect the other. 

Easterly winds are very rare. 

Geneva is in latitude 42° 50', being nearly parallel to Newbury- 
port in America, and Cape Finisterre, in Portugal. It is exactly in 
the meridian of Washington city, and a little to the eastward of 
Carlisle, in Pennsylvania. 



» It 13 proper to remark, that the winter of 1799 1800 was the coldest, andthesno^r 
tfee deepest, that ever was known in this part of the country. 



NEW YORK. 527 



CHAPTER cm. 



Leave Geneva^ — Attbuni, — Skeneateless, Onofidago^ — Manlius 
Square, — Utica. 

I PARTED with my agreeable friends at Geneva at 10 o'clock. 
The morning was cool and cloudy, with a strong south wind. I 
passed along from the head of the lake by good bottom lands; but 
the soil soon becomes poor and sandy ; and I travelled through 
some pine woods, the first I had seen since I passed the Allegany 
mountains. I travelled a little way along the side of Seneca river, 
and crossed it by a bridge at the falls, where I observed numerous 
mills ; among others, a fulling-mill, and carding-machine. Three 
miles from thence I passed through pretty good land, and tliick 
settlements, to Cayuga lake, about a mile broad, and I crossed it 
by a flat boat with a sail. A bridge was erected here, but it broke 
«down about three years ago, and the remains of it are still to be 
seen. I learned that another would be erected soon. The lake is 
shallow, and freezes in winter. Cayuga village stands in a pretty 
elevated situation, on the east bank of the lake, and contains 20 
dwelling-houses, 2 taverns, and 2 stores. There is an inconsider- 
able trade upon the lake and river, in salt upwards, and flour 
downwards. 

Seneca river, after passing into the lake at the north end, re- 
issues a little to the eastward, and, running a north and east course 
to Cross lake, it receives the waters of Canandaigua lake, Owasco 
lake, and Skeneateless, besides those of smaller note. From Cross 
lake it makes a bend by the north and east, and receives the waters 
of Onondago lake, when it turns to the north, and forms a junc- 
tion with Oneida river, when the two rivers united, assuming the 
name of Oswego river, pursues a north-west course to Lake Onta- 
rio, in its progress passing over a ridge, by a fall of 10 feet per- 
pendicular, and from thence it has a very rapid current for 12 miles 
lo Lake Ontario. 

Here I fell in with two travellers going to the eastward, with 
whom I kept company, and passing on 6 miles, we arrived at Au* 
burn, on the Owasco river, where we stopped all night. In the course 
«{ the day, I passed from 20 to 30 families moving to the westward. 

AuBURK is the scat of justice of Cayuga county. It was laid 



528 



TRAVELS IN 



out 10 years ago, and now contains about 100 houses, and 600 in- 
habitants. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, church, 
and academy, and there are 8 stores, 3 taverns, and a weekly news- 
paper. There are small falls on the river at this place, which af- 
ford water for 3 grist-mills, 1 saw-mill, 1 trip-hammer, 1 oil-mill, 
4 carding machines, and 3 fulling-mills ; and there are in the town 
3 tanneries, 3 distilleries, 2 hat factories, and 4 smiths' forges. 

November 9. The morning was cloudy and agreeable. I tra" 
veiled to Skeneateless, 7 miles, to breakfast. The road very mud- 
dy ; the soil black loam and clay ; the face of the country uneven, 
but not hilly ; and the grounds pretty well cleared of timber, ex- 
cept the roots, which stood up all along the road, so many wit- 
nesses that this is a new country. I passed a number of waggons 
moving to the westward, and saw some travellers walking on foot 
eastward, one of whom told he was from Grand river, on Lake 
Erie, and was going to Connecticut, whjch journey, 600 miles, he 
expected to perform in 20 days. 

Skeneateless is a beautiful little place, situated at the outlet of 
the lake of the same name. It was laid out about 15 years ago, 
and contains about 60 houses, and 350 inhabitants. The village lot» 
are 30 feet by 60, and are worth about 200 dollars ; and the out-lots 
sell for about 500 dollars an acre. There is a congregational 
church, with a handsome spire, situated upon the top of the hill'; 
and there are in the village 4 stores and 2 taverns. The principal 
occupations are 2 carpenters, 2 masons, 2 blacksmiths, 1 watch- 
maker, 2 cabinet-makers, 1 taylor, 1 hatter, 1 tanner, 1 shoe- 
maker, 2 coopers, I painter, 1 dyer, 2 doctors, 4 lawyers, 1 cler- 
gyman, and 2 schoolmasters, who teach at 2 dollars per quarter. 
There are falls on the river, which issues from the lake, and the 
water turns 2 fulling-mills, a grist-mill, and a saw-mill ; and a 
bi'ickyard and 2 distilleries are in the neighbourhood. A great 
quantity of woollen cloth is manufactured here, and manufactories 
•renerally are increasing. The situation is healthy, and the view 
alone: the lake is beautiful. 

After breakfast I passed the outlet by a wooden bridge, immedi- 
ately below which are the mills and mill-dam. 1 observed a boy 
fishing, and saw several very pretty trout lying on the bridge. I in- 
quired how long he had been in catching them ; he answered about 
five minutes. Just as he spoke he pulled up a large salmon-trout, 
and I stopped about 4 npinutes, during which he caught three or four 



NEW YORK. 529 

more. It was the finest fishing I ever saw ; and the trout were 
beautiful. 

From hence I passed over six miles, the soil nearly as before de- 
scribed, and the country uneven; and three miles further on I pass- 
ed a fine stream running to the northward in a hollow, on which 
is a handsome settlement of 30 houses, with a grist-mill, saw-mill, 
and fulling-mill. To the east of this there is a large cleariiig, and 
a congregational church, but it looks humble for want of a spire. 
The country now becomes more hilly, and affords many fino views, 
the greatest extent being to the northward. The road was very 
muddy, and composed of a stiff red clay ; the soil was generally 
good, a black mould being above the cla}' ; and the timber consist- 
ed of every variety ; in most places beech was predominant. 

Eight miles brought me to Onondago court-house, a small place 
consisting of 23 houses, 3 stores, and 2 taverns ; and a mile btyond 
this, in a dee[) valley called Onondago Hollow, stands a very hand- 
some village, consisting of 40 dwelling h.ouscs, having un elegant 
brick church, with a spire. A creek of clear water runs through 
the hollow to the north, and drives many mills ; and in front of the 
road, on the brow of a hill, is a handsome state-arsenal, built of 
hewn stone. The view here reminded me of some of the scenery 
in the state of Ohio.* 

• To tlie north of this about five or six miles, are tlie celebrated Onondago salt-works ; 
as I did not turn out of my way to view them, I shall transcribe an account of them 
from Schultz's Travels. 

" The town of Salina is situated on a bank fifty feet above th» creek and marsh in front, 
and contains about fifty houses, some of which make a respectable appearance. The 
country immediately around the town appears to be a sliiF barru'.i clay ; and v, jf)d, from 
the vast consumption of the furnaces, has already become scarce. The whole trade of 
this village arises from the manufacture of salt; nor do I believe there is a single indi- 
vidual in the town who is not concerned in the trade. The salt-springs are found on the 
margin of an extensive marsh, not unlike, in appearance, to the salt n-,arshes of Ho- 
boken. The furnaces are generally i)laced a little way up the bank, and the works are 
supplied by hand and horse pumps. At present they have about 300 kettlcsat this place, 
and at Livorpocl, (two miles north) 144 ; all these are kept in constant opeiation, both 
day and night, and produce about two tliousand four hundred bushels per day. From 
the inexhaustible nature of these springs, and the increasing population, and conscvjuoiit 
demand for salt, there can be no doubt but that Salina will become the largest inlanil 
town in the state. 

" To the eye the Onondago salt appears equal to that from Turks Island ; yet, al- 
though it is as clear and white as the latter, it is found to be f.'om four to five pounil-; 
ligliter in the bushel. No other salt, however, is used in this country, and a great part 
of the states of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, and Michigan Territory, as likewise tlie 

67 



530 



TRAVELS IN 



The road, immetliately after passing this hollow, whids up the hill 
to a considerable heiglit. The bottom of it is improved ; but the 
soil is inferior, and we saw a good deal of pine wood. In my pro- 
gress I saw Onondago lake, and arriving at Manlius Square, 10 miles 
from Onondago Ilollovr, at dark, I stopped all night. 

Manlius Square lias been settled about 12 years, and now con- 
tains about 60 dwelling houses, 3 taverns, and 6 stores, 2 grist mills, 
an oil-mill, a fulling-mill, a carding machine, and a dye-house, 2 
tan-yards, and 2 hat-factories. The lots are a quarter of an acre 
each, and are woith from 250 to 500 dollars ; improved land in the 
neighbourhood sells for from 10 to 30 dollars per acre. Manufac- 
tures are progressing in the town and neighbourhood. Two com~ 
j)anies have been formed for carrying on glass and iron works, and 
a vast quantity of woollen cloth is made through the country. 

November 10. I found there had been a good deal of rain dur- 
ing the night, and it rained a little this morning ; the wind was from 
the north-west, and the weather cool. 1 travelled over a pretty -ele- 
vated hilly country, six miles, to Canaserago Hollow, to breakfast. 
Tiie road was very bad ; but the fatigue of travelling was in part 
compensated by the view, which was beautiful, and extended at one 
place across Oneida lake. 

The road was undergoing repair at this place, the work being sUj- 
perintended by judge Young, a gentleman who settled Youngstown, 
in the state of Ohio. I met with the judge at the tavern, and re- 
ceived a good deal of information from him. 

A n)ile and a half from where I breakfasted I passed through Ca- 

whole of Upper, and a considerable part of Lower Canada, are wholly supplied from 
these works. 

" I exaimined the several springs used in manufacturing this nccessai-y article of life; 
and thouah there was a considerable variadon in their degrees of strength, yet I found 
them all nearly three times as strong as sea water. I likewise found a most excellent spring 
of fresh water in the same place, and within two rods of a very strong salt-spring. I no- 
ticed, however, tliat this issued from the surface of a stratum of clay, which lay about six 
inches higher tlian those that were salt. 1 have just remarked that there is a considera- 
ble difference in the relative strength of the waters of these springs ; and I have been in- 
formed by the manufacturers that some will require but ninety, while others take one hun- 
dred and twenty giilions of water to produce one bushel of salt. You will also readily 
perceive that the quality of the water must be very materially affected by every change of 
the weather, and consequently stronger in a dry than in a wet season. 

" The price of salt at the works is incredibly low, being no more than from 25 to 31 
cents per bushel of 5f)ibs., or 2 dollars 25 cents a barrel, containing 5 bushels, including 
the price of the barrel, and iu.j action fees." 



NEW YORK. 531 

naserago, a handBomc village, consisting of about 20 frame houses, 
painted white. At 3 o'clock I passed Oneida creek, on which there 
is a considerable settlement of Indians. The land here is sandy and 
level, and covered with pine woods; but the country round is hilly, 
and the soil good. The road passes a little village called Vernon, 
and proceeds through a thickly-settled country, with good landii 
and plenty of taverns by the way. Towards evening I came to a 
sign-post pointing to the left, on which was painted in large cha- 
racters, ^To Utica 16 miles. I turned aside, according to the di- 
rection given ; but I soon found the road nearly impassable, and 
turned back to make inquiry. When I regained the turnpike, a 
traveller came forward, and told me to keep the straight road — the 
sign-post was an imposition, and merited no attention, ' It was a 
decoy to induce travellers to take a very bad road that led three or 
four miles round, in order that some tavern-keepers might make a 
little money by them. *' O, money !" exclaimed I, " the love of thee 
is the root of all evil. In this case thou hast almost extorted 
the malediction recorded in the bible, 'cursed is he that turneth ihc 
traveller out of his way.' " 1 kept company with this new acquaint- 
ance, and we travelled five miles to Laird's tavern, where we stop- 
ped for the night, 1 1 miles from Utica. 

November 1 1 , Being anxious to get to Utica early, I set out at 
day-light, and the discreet traveller whom I fell in with last nij^ht 
kept me company. We travelled through a pretty hilly country, 
and good hard road, with improved farms on each side, seven milca» 
to Hartford, situated on a liltle stream that falls into the Mobawk, 
and is rapidly advancing in manufactures. Some cotton-works had 
been recently erected. We stopped here while I got a shoe put on 
my horse, and I observed in the njnith's forg^j a pair of bellows on a 
new construction, for which a pateiu had b en obtained. Ti.s prin- 
ciple was precisely the same as the common bellows ; but the appli- 
cation is an evident improvement. The air is collected in a circu- 
lar wooden cylinder, having moveable pi-otuns above and be!o\>', 
fixed to the cylinder with leather, so as to allow them motion, and 
at the ^ame rime keep the interior of the vessel air light. The air 
has ingress below a valve, anil has egress from the side of the cylin- 
der by a tube leading to the foi'ge. Tlie advantugts over the com- 
mon bellows are durability, co;iipactness, and tiicapnes.'s. 

The road and country continue nearly the same as already de- 
scribed; 4 miles, to Utica. In our progress, my fcUow-travcllcr told 



532 TRAVELS IN 

me he was settled in New Connecticut, to which he had emigrated 
from Lower Canada, not far from the American Hne on^ew Hamp- 
shire. He was highly pleased with the change he had made. His 
chief objection to Canada was the long severe winters, the haughti- 
ness of the soldiery, and the encouragement of spies and informers* 
by which means the best citizens were liable to become a prey to the 
worst. He affirmed that the people in that district were universally 
dissatisfied, and a war with the United States would be the signal 
> for revolt, if it was seen that the United States had an army suffi- 
ciently powerful to support them. 

As we approached towards Utica, I was quite surprised with the 
appearance of the country ; the houses were so thick, that it was for 
a considerable way like a continued village. Many of the buildings 
were elegant, with fine orcliards attache*! to them, and the plots of 
ground adjoining wei*e fertile and elegantly cultivated ; while the 
lands at a little distance formed a singular contrast. They were 
bare of trees to a considerable distance ; but the stumps were pro- 
fusely scattered over the surface — a sure indication that the coun- 
try had not long been the habitation of man. This is, indeed, a 
new country; but society has made most rapid progress — the more 
so, of course, that it is immediately contiguous to the old ; and Uti- 
ca, which we reached at 9 o'clock, may be termed the key to th? 
western country. 



CHAPTER CIV. 

Ulica, — Remarks on the Grand Canals — Foreign and Internal 
Cojnmcrcc and Manufactures. 

JLN my progress through the western parts of the state of New 
York, the grand canal had frequently become the topic of conver- 
sation; but it did not appear to have excited that interest there 
that might havo been expected iVoni a work of such magnitude. It 
had been differently viewed at Utica. 

The grand canr.I, it was presumed, would recruit the drooping 
commerce of the town, re-animate the spirit tor building, restore con- 
fidence in. the future greatness of the place, and improve the price 
of lots. My individual opinion of the canal was by this time form- 
ed, and when I frankly stated it, I was often mortified to find that 



NEW YOllK. h83 

4t was very uncongenial to the fond anticipation of my friends. I 
always make it a rule, however, to be candid, and to speak what I 
think. I have not yet learned the happy facility of " booing to the 
great mon," and I am now too old to learn. A candid opinion, 
founded upon examination, though it should be even incorrect, is 
of more service to the cause of truth than a complaisant acquies- 
cence without any examination at all ; and every person who states 
his opinion candidly and discreetly, will receive the approbation of 
the wise and the good ; the rest are not worth caring for. My can- 
did opinion then was that there would probably be no grand canal,^ 
(the reasons I shall give hereafter;) and that the people of Utica 
would deceive themselves it they looked for relief to their drooping 
commerce from that quarter. But I saw that Utica was probably 
destined to be re-animated in another way. I think it will become 
one of the greatest manufacturing districts in the United States; 
and in that view I proceed to consider it. 

It may be proper first to glance at Utica as regards foreign com- 
mei'ce. By looking at the map, it will be seen that Utica it^ on the 
Mohawk river, near the head of navigation, 100 miles from Albany. 
The mountainous district commences here, and continues to within 
60 miles of New York, and to the north and west is a fine cham- 
paign country, which, since it began to settle, has proceeded with 
a rapidity of improvement that has no parallel on earth, except in 
the stale of Ohio. While this western country was in its infancy, 
the first employment of the settlers was to clear the ground, and 
raise a little grain and poik for sale; and with the j)rocCeds 
provide various supplies for their families. Having no other mar- 
ket, except the low country, and no resources within themselves, 
this trade centered first at Albany, and was very beneficial to it. 
About 23 years ago, a settlement was commenced at Utica, in which 
the stores were well supplied with dry goods and groceries, and with 
ca<=h to purchase produce. It was found to be a saving to the farm- 
ers to trade here, in place of going to Albany, and a considerable 
portion of the trade accordingly rested at Utica. The western 
country progi'essed, the trade flourished in proportion, new stores 
were established, the town increased, elegant houses were built, lots 
rose in value ; and the last branch was much accelerated by the a- 
vidity of speculation. 

This state of things continued until about the years 1807-5, 
when circumstances began to change. As the people to the 



554 TRAVELS IN 

westward became numerous and vealtliy, they began to establish 
towns in the interior, and these became so many httle emporiums 
for supplying the inhabitants with necessaries and receiving their 
produce. In addition to this, the current of the market began 
to change ahogether ; the lakes and the St. Lav ciice were found 
to be a better and more convenient market for tie northern and 
western parts of the state, than the Mohawk and Hudson; and 
Montreal engrossed a large share of the commerce heretofore enjoyed 
by New York, Albany, and Utica. AntI, to crown the whole, 
British credit was so cheap in New York, that New York credit 
partook of it, and goods were brought into tlie market, in all 
directions, through the country, often on a credit of from 6 to 
18 months. The business was overdone; many of the country 
dealers were ruined ; the town-merchants lost a great deal of 
money ; and the whole country suffered by the re-action. The 
single circumstance of 3300 debtors advertising tor the benefit of 
the insolvent law, is a commentary upon the subject, to which I 
have not a word to add ; and I now proceed to enforce an opinion 
already promulgated in this work. 

The foreign trade is gone, never to be recalled to its former 
state. A new era has commenced in the United States. Britain 
is destined to be no longer the manufacturer for America; the 
seeds of manufactures are sown throughout the country, never to 
be rooted out ; and, so far from the interior being dependent upon 
the cities as heretofore, the cities will, in all probability, become de- 
pendent upon it. A friend of mine, lately, in adverting to this 
subject, well expi'essed it; " the cities have had their day, and 
fimo for the country" 1 am of the same opinion; and though I 
am well aware that it is by no means gratifying to many who live 
in the cities, yet I consider it a solemn duty to state it. Those 
who avail themselves of the advantages to be derived from the 
pew order of things, will in my opinion do well ; while those who 
continue to hang by a precarious foreign trade, or depend on its 
reanimation, will, I fear, find themselves disappointed. 

But the citizens of Utica have already begun to avail themselves 
of the advantages to be derived from the new order of things ; 
and a good deal of the surplus capital of Albany, and New York, 
has also been invested in manufactures, in and about this place . 
for which they are already getting in some cases a handsome re- 
turn ; perhaps not so great as that to be sometimes derived Irom 



NEW YORK. 535 

a foreign voyage, but much more certain, and with very little risk 
of losing the cv.:y'.-Ai vthile " orders in council," and " blockad- 
ing decrees," ^> .m other vexatious restrictions of trade on the high 
seas, are so far from being injurious, that they are absolutely ad- 
vantageous. 

There are in Oneida county three glass-works in operation, 
one of crown glass, one of cylinder glass, and one for glass bottles. 
Four paper-mills have been recently erected within eight miles of 
Utica. One cotton-factory is in operation, and three or four are 
erecting, besides several woollen factories, aiul there are consider 
able bleach-fields and dye-works. Iron-works and forges arc nu- 
merous, and there are in the county 20 tan-works, several hat- 
factories, 24; fulling-mills, and 10 carding-machines. 

There are three branches that are likely to flourish in an emi- 
nent degree : glass, woollens, and cotton ; and they w ill all be of 
great importance to Utica. For glass the materials are all on the 
spot. Sheep, both of the common and merino breeds, are in- 
creasing in all directions, and cotton can be brought from New 
York by a water conveyance, except a short portage of 15 miles 
from Albany to Skenectady. The cotton trade will, I think, 
flourish beyond every other here. It is now so sim})lified, and 
machinery is applied to it with such effect, that little labour is 
required ; and the labourers daily arriving from Europe, at New 
York, can be transported here in a few days, at a small expencc. 
The raw material can always be had nearly one- half lower than in 
Europe, and such is the cheapness of living, and so plenty the hands, 
that labour will not be a great deal dearer. The trade with the 
back country is secure to a very large extent, and provisions must 
be for ever cheap at Utica. 

Utica is the capital of Oneida county, and .con?ists at present 
of about 400 houses, containing 2000 inhabitants. It began to 
settle about 23 years age, as already mentioned, but it has beea 
principally built since the year 1796, and two-thirds of it since 
J 800. The buildings arc mostly of wood, painted white, but a 
good many have lately been built of brick, and some few of stone. 
The public buildings are four places for public worship, two of 
them elegant, an academy, clerk's office, &c. ; and there are six 
taverns, 15 stores, and 2 breweries. 

There are three printing-offices ; viz. one for books, and twi> 
for newspapers, one book-store, one bindery, two moroc«o manu- 



536 ^ TRAVELS IN 

factories, and one manufactory of musical instruments ; three ma- 
sons, a number of biick-makers and Ciirpenters, four cabinet and 
chair-makers, two coopers, seven smiths and nailors, two tin- 
smiths, one copper-smith, four silver-smiths and watch-makers, 
three tanners and curriers, three saddlers, three shoe-makers, one 
furrier, six butchers, two bakers, three hatters, four taylors, four 
painters, and four druggists. 

The village lots are from 50 to 60 feet front, and 100 to 130 
feet deep, and sell for from 200 to 1000 dollars. The out-lots 
contain 12 acres, and 5000 dollars are asked for them. 

House i*eut for mechanics is about 60 to 100 dollars, wood 1 
dollar 25 cents per cord, flour 8 dollars per barrel, potatoes 25 
cents per bushel, turnips 31 cents, cabbages 4 cents each, beans 
62 cents per bushel, onions 75 cents, beef, mutton, and veal five 
cents per lb., venison 4- cents, fowls 9 cents each, ducks 25 cents, 
geese 50 cents, turkeys 62 cents, butter 12^ents per lb., cheese 
7 cents, hog's lard 6 cents, beer 5 dollars per barrel, whiskey 45 
cents per gallon, boarding 2 dollars 50 cents per week. 

The government of the village is vested in a board of five trus- 
tees, chosen annually by the inhabitants. There are five schools, 
at which are taught all the various branches of education, which 
is pretty well attended to ; and there is a very good seminary for 
young ladies. The expence of tuition is about from two to four 
dollars per quarter. 

The commerce of Utica consists of dry goods, groceries, crock- 
ery, hardware, and cotton, imported ; and of grain, flour, pro- 
visions, ashes, &c. exported. The chief part of tlic commerce is- 
with New York, but it is said a considerable smuggling trade has 
of late been carried on with Canada. 

Wheat is 1 dollar 12 cents per bushel, corn 44 cents, barley 
75 cents, ashes nominal, cotton 21 cents, horses 50 to 100 dollars, 
cows 1 5 to 22 dollars, sheep 2 to 2 dollars 50 cents. 

Lands on the turnpike, in the neighbourhood, sell for from 50 
to 100 dollars; further off" 40 to 50; but the lands in both vil- 
lage and country have greatly depreciated in the money value. 

The view of the country round has been already noticed ; the 
whole is healthy, but the winters are cold and severe. 



NEW YORK, 



CHAPTER CV. 



537 



General rema/h, — Vtexv of the ?iorthern parts of New York^ — - 
Sachet's harbour^ — Lake OntnriO; — Adjacent country^ — Internal 
Navigation. 

\, HE reader will perceive, that since I entered upon the western 
country, at the top of the Allegany mountains (page 306,) I have 
travelled over upwards of 1700 miles, making observations all 
the way, with every degree of minuteness in my power, and f 
have endeavoured, as concisely as I could, to give a general view 
of that very important and extensive region. Besides the infor- 
mation which I personally j)rocured, I have frequently availed 
myself of authentic information from others. Having received a 
communication from Mr. Sacket, of Jamaica, Long Island, re- 
lative to the northern parts of this state, 1 shall here avail myself 
of the valuable information it contains, in taking a brief view of 
that part of the country. 

In the year 1799 Mr. Sacket made a tour through the nor- 
thern parts of the state, then an entire wilderness, to the banks of 
Lake Ontario, and next year he made a purchase of 700 acres of 
land on the banks of the lake, at a public sale in New York, for 
156 dollars 25 cents. In the fall of ISOO he took a journey to 
the land, in company wiih several men whom he had engafjed to 
cut down tha timber, and remained al)out two months without 
shelter, exposed to rain, cold, and hunger. The ensuing sprin'j- 
they v/ent there again to burn the timber cut down tiie preceding 
fall, to plant some grain, and to erect a saw-mdi. In that year 
(1801) three families went to reside on the place, and there were 
no other settlers in all the country, except one family 10 miles 
distant, one 14< miles distant, and some ^qw farther off, at the 
distance of 40 or 50 miles. 

Previous to this period a great degree of prejudice existed a- 
gainst the lake shore; it was reputed subject to fevers, and other- 
wise unhealthy, and Mr. Sacket's new settlement excited a irood 
deal of curiosity in the minds of that most enterprising people, 
the New Englanders, who were traversing the country in all di- 
rections in quest of new lands. The first fall Mr. Sacket had 
from 10 to 30 of these people almost every night, to partake of 



538 



TJRAVELS IN 



l)is fare, and lodgings on the ground. The next spring they re- 
newed their visits, and finding Mr. Sacket making successful pro- 
gress with his infant settlement, they threw aside their fears, and 
rapidly bought up the surrounding country, and moved on it with 
their families. 

The ensuing winter Mr. Sacket describes as the most dreary 
he ever experienced ; the sun or compass directed their travels 
through the woods ; there were no roads, no travellers, no news, 
and they were cut off from all communication with society, except 
a few Indians, whose confidence Mr. Sacket was so fortunate as 
to secure, and they were very serviceable in bringing venison, 
fish, wild fowl, cranberries, &:c. They were an inoffensive, friend- 
ly, and obliging people ; but they would frequently indulge 
themselves in a drunken frolic under circumstances truly singular, 
indicative of a mixture of folly and good sense. They would de- 
posite in Mr. Sacket's hands all their guns, knives, tomahawks, 
trinkets, &c., and then the men would get into the highest state 
of intoxication, and so continue for two days, while the women 
would remain perfectly sober. As soon as they had finished their 
frolic, the ladies would set to it in their turn, and continue for a 
like time in the most brutal state of intoxication, during which 
time the men would never taste liquor. Sometimes a party of men 
or women would come alone, in which case, if they had a mind for 
a frolic, they would take it by turns, one half remaining sober 
while the other was drunk. 

Ml*. Sacket completely succeeded with his settlement, and it 
miw contains one of the handsomest villages on the lake, called 
Sacket's Harbour, on account of being situated on a pretty little 
harbour, by far the best on the lake. 

The village is situated at the east end of Lake Ontario, about 
16 miles from the river St. Lawrence, and consists of a nuniber 
of large and elegant modern-built houses and out-houses, gene- 
rally su})erior to what they are in the old villages. The village 
was originally laid out in half acre lots, but many of them are 
subdivided ; and such has been the rapidity of the settlement, 
that these lots arc now selling for from 250 to 1200 dollars; and 
one of them, which was given in a present to one of the first set- 
tlers, to induce him to go into the wilderness, was lately sold at 
1450 dollars. Mr. Satket has realized from it, in all, about 
25,000 dollars, and has considerable property yet remaining unsold. 



NEW YORK. 539 

The harbour is formed by a peninsula of limestone rock, m 
many places not more than one rod wide, which perfectly sheltersi 
a sheet oi" water containing about 10 acres. The land frontinuj the 
harbour is elevated about 30 feet, and on each side of the harbour 
the banks are of limestone, about 20 or 30 feet perpendicular, 
which, from the water, resembles the walls of an ancient fortifi- 
cation. From the village there is one of the most variegated, ex- 
tensive, and beautiful prospects any where to be seen : the lake, 
distant islands, main land, and outlets of rivers, are all beautiful, 
and the scene is continually enlivened with vessels and boats ; while 
the wharfs, warehouses, and stores exhibit an appearance very 
much resembling a sea-port on the Atlantic. 

This has for several years been established a port of entry, and 
it is in contemplation to establish a navy-yard, arsenal, and fortifi- 
cation for protecting the trade on the lake. There is a ferry be- 
tween it and Kingstown, in Canada, distant 36 miles, with which 
place there is a great intercourse : and as soon as packet-boats are 
established on the lake, this vvill be the best place from whence to 
embark to visit the falls of Niagara, distant about 200 miles. 

The trade at this place has been increasing every year since its 
first settlement. There are now upwards of forty vessels on the 
lake, and the quantity of wheat, flour, beef, pork, ashes, anil 
lumber that is annually exported to Montreal would almost exceed 
belief But the fair trader is very much annoyed by smuggling, 
which is a great and a growing evil. The great extent of custom- 
house districts on the line between the states and Canada, and 
the want of small craft, properly manned, to assist the oflicers of 
the customs in the discharge of their duty, gives a facihty to a 
violation of the laws which the officers are wholly unable to pre- 
vent; and the practice of smuggling is becoming so habitual, 
that it will probably give much trouble to the general govern- 
ment to prevent it, and it may in fact be productive of confu- 
sion and bloodshed. 

The district of country now composing the counties of Jefferson, 
Lewis, and St. Lawrence, which in the year 1800 was an entire 
wilderness, containing only a few scattering families, now contains a 
most repectable settlement of 29,471 souls, enjoying all the com^ 
forts and convenicncies of life, having villages, court-houses, jails, 
post-offices, taverns, stores, academies, schools, churches, turn- 
pike roads, bridges, bi^weries, distilleries:, mills, carding machine^; 



640 TRAVELS IS 

and supporting farmers, mechanics, and manufacturers ; with law- 
yers, doctors, and divines in abundance. Within 13 miles of 
Sacket's Harbour are no less than five considerable villacres, viz. 
Brownsville, Williamstown, Watertown, Bun's mills, and Sandy 
Creek ; and in all these villages, as well as Sacket's Harbour, there 
are elegant buildings. In these three counties there are 37 tan- 
works, 17 fulling-mills, and 11 carding machines; and the quan- 
tity of cloth manufactured last year exceeds 300,000 yards. The 
lands are generally good, the timber being chiefly elm, oak, maple, 
hickory, pine, cedar, and hemlock. The woods are generally 
open, having littlo brushwood. Produce is plenty, and provisions 
are very cheap ; beef, mutton, and veal about 4< cents per lb., venison 
2^ to 3, and other kinds in proportion. Flour, grain, and vege- 
tables are equally plenty and cheap.^ The woods furnish a great 
variety of wild game, particularly deer, partridges, and pigeons ; 
and the waters are equally prolific of fish, of which there is a great 
variety, consisting of salmon, salmon-trout, trout, Oswego, white 
and rock bass, pike from 2 to 50 lbs. weight, and a great variety 
of others. There are plenty of wild geese on the lake, and a great 
variety of ducks and other fowl, which by feeding on the wild rice 
lose their fishy taste, and are highly esteemed. In the woods there 
are some wolves and bears, but they avoid men when in their pow- 
er ; the latter are often found crossing rivers and bjiys*. 

A great emulation and activity pervades all classes of the settlers 
in ornamenting their villages, and improving their farms, roads, 
&c. which must ultimately make this one of the finest and most 
agreeable parts of the state. And when we reflect on what has 
already been done, the mind is inevitably hurried forward to con- 

* The following singular occurrence took place on the lake not long ago. 

^ farmer who lived on the lake sliore, observing a bear crossing a bay, was anxi- 
ous to kill him. He ran to his skiff, anil without'reflecting that he had no weapon but 
l»is paddle, worked his way to the bear, who immediately sprung into the skiff, and, to 
the great terror of tlie farmer, very deliberately sat down on the bow in front of liim. 
Ilie farmer, after some reflection, determined to carry him back, and attempted to 
turn the boat ; but tlie bear made an advance to prevent him, and the boat, impelled by 
tlie wind, having gained its first position, the bear again very quietly took his seat on 
the bow. The famier made a second and a third attempt, with always the same result ; 
and perceiving that whe<i the boat went tlie way the bear was swimming he was quiet, 
he very prudently determined to reach the land in that direction. He accordingly row- 
ed on, and when he was within a few feet of the shore, the black jiassenger leaped out, 
to its great satisfaction ; equalled oi probably surpassed by that of itii firrymnn, th» 
f.trnier. 



KEW YOKK. Ml 

template the progress of society along this amazing chain of lakes 
and rivers ? and we see, by anticipation, cultivated fields and or- 
cliards, thriving rnanufuctories, with a succession of cities, towns, 
and villages, abounding in arts, sciences, and all the embellish- 
ments of civil life. 

The navigation of the Mohawk river, and a water communica- 
tiod from Albany to the great lakes, are objects which are calcu- 
lated to excite particular interest at this j)lace. The Hudson river 
is a noble stream, havin*; tide water to Troy, six miles above Al- 
bany, to which large vessels can freely navigate. The Mohawk 
river forms a junction with the Hudson at Waterford, a few miles 
above Troy. From the mouth of the river, there are rapids, ex- 
tending about a mile and a half, to the Cohoes falls, a perpendicu- 
lar descent of about 70 feet, and the rapids below are about as 
much more. From this to Schenectady is about 12 miles. An 
excellent turnpike road has been made between Albany and Sche- 
nectady ; and from thence to Utica the Mohawk is navigable with 
boats, which are propelled upwards, at the rate of 13 or 20 miles 
a day. The distance between Schenectady and Utica by water is 
104< miles. The navigation U continued beyond Utica, 16 miles, 
to Rome, where, by means of a canal one mile long, the boats arc 
carried through Wood creek 2i miles, Oneida lake 30 miles, O- 
neida riverj20 miles, and Oswego river 6 miles, where there is a fall 
of 10 feet, and a portage of two miles. The navigation is then 
continued 12 miles to Oswcgo^on lake Ontario. The whole distance 
from Albany is 228 miles, from New Yoik 3S8. 

Tlie navigation of these rivers was at first in a very imperfect 
state; but thelegislature of the state of New York, considering the 
importance of an inland navigation from the Atlantic to the great 
lakes, incorporated a company under the title of the Western In- 
land Lock Navigation Company. This company has expended a 
great deal of money, and done as much as their funds would per- 
mit, to complete this important navigation. But it is still defec- 
tive and their tolls are so \cry high on the lines of canal, that the 
utility ol' the navigation is considerably impaired. Within these 
two years, therefore, the subject has excited fresh interest; and the 
legislature, by a joint resolution of both houses, in March, 1810, 
appointed commissioners " to examine the navigation, to consider 
^vhat further improvements ought to be made, and to report." 
The commissioners having caused various surveys to be made^ 



542 TRAVELS IN 

and examined the subject with as much attention as time and circum- 
stances would permit, reported, " that by the aid of canals, a 
good navigation for boats can unquestionably be made from Sche- 
nectady to the falls, on the Oswego river, 12 miles south of lake 
Ontario ; from Shenectady to the Hudson, and from the falls just 
mentioned, to lake Ontario;" but they stated their conviction, that 
it was more desirable to extend the navigation direct Irom Rome, 
at the head of Wood creek, to lake Erie. 

From this report, and a map of the western parts of the state, 
engraved to illustrate the subject, it appears that .the line of canal 
from lake Erie to Rome, is intended to join the lake at Black Rock, 
and extend along the Niagara river to the mouth of Tonewanta 
creek, 10 miles, thence along that creek about 10 miles, thence 
due north about 10 miles, to the top of the Ledge, 8 miles from 
lake Ontario. Then along that ledge, 55 miles, to Genessee river 
crossing it above the falls, 6 miles from the said lake; and thence 
along the country, crossing Seneca river, 18 miles from the lake, 
and passing close by Salina, and the south-east corner of Oneida 
lake; the whole distance between Genessee river and Rome, being 
about 110 miles. The commissioners, to make the navigation per- 
fect, proposed to run the canal all the way to Albany. They de- 
clined dcterming whether it should be for sloops or for boats only ; 
but they concluded that a very complete national work might be 
executed for five millions of dollars, which they consider a sun^ 
not above one twentieth part of the value of the commodities 
that will be transported on the canal in less than a century. 

It is to be presumed that the enlightened legislature of a state so 
powerful as New York will not lose sight of the subject, and 
I think it extremely probable, that a good boat navigation will 
be completed betwixt the Hudson and the lakes. I do not think 
it probable that a passage for larger craft will be attempted, for the 
present, and I presume that the plan will ultimately be to perfect 
the navigation by the Mohawk, Wood creek, and Oneida lake, to 
lake Ontario. 

This, however, I state merely as my private opinion, and with 
all due deference to the commissioners and others interested, 
whom I consider the only competent judges. The state will no 
doubt act wisely and judiciously, and the plan that appears best, 
under all circumstances, will of course be adopted. Should it be 
the line direct to lake Erie, every friend to the internal prosperity 



NEW YORK. 5i3 

of the country must wish them success in the execution of such 
an arduous undertaking. In the mean time, I may glance at a 
few reasons wliy I think they will probably ultimately fix on the line 
by the Mohawk, &c., to lake Ontario. 

First. To run a line of canal, 300 miles in length, is a work 
of such magnitude, that it can only be executed and supported by 
a very thick population. The labour and expence of completing 
it, would be an exceeding great burden upon the present genera- 
tion, and they would receive no return ; for though begun now, the 
man is not alive that would see it completed.* To confer a benefit 
on posterity is a laudable principle, but the great stimulus to 
mankind is present advantage; and it is to be expected that they 
will avail themselves, in the first instance, of natural advantages 
as much as possible. Nature has done much towards an in- 
land navigation by the rivers and lakes mentioned, and little art, 
comparatively, is necessary to render the advantage immediate. 

Secondl}'. That an inland canal will divert the trade of the lakes 
from the St. Lawrence to the Hudson, is, I think, very problema- 
tical. " There is no friendship in trade." If Montreal be found 
a better market than New York, the trade on the lakes and country 
adjacent will be to Montreal, and an inland canal will not prevent 
it, because there will be buyers at every port on the lakes for the 
Montreal market ; and as people always prefer an immediate to a 
distant market, those who live near these places will avail them- 
selves of the market at their door. The natural trade, in fact, of 
these countries is by the St. Lawrence; and this will continue while 
the United States remain at peace with Britain. Siiould they go 
to war, a preity obvious result is, that Canada will fall in with the 
United States. 

Thirdly. The old commercial relations of the United States 
have changed ; and the change will probably jirogress until it be 
f consummated in the establishment of internal manufactures, and in- 
ternal consumpt for produce and raw materials ; which will prevent 
the quantity of both fo^- exportation from keeping pace with the 

* Let tho^e who doubt this, turn to the history of canals in general. An individual 
instance may be alluded to in the Forth and Clyde navigation, in Scotland. The Forth 
and Clyde canal is 55 miles long, and tlie summit level is 155 feet above tide- water. 
It was executed at a time when wages were only a shilling a day, and it runs through 
a thick-settled cauntrj'. It was comnacnced in 1768, and completed in 1790, O'i vear.s. 
At tlie same rate, the grand canal wouM be finished in '2'JO. 



M4 tRAVELS IN 

progress of populalion. The chance is, that the exports of the U- 
iiited States liave reached their zenith ; and that a trade more con- 
ducive to internal prosperity "vill succeed. Siiould that be the case, 
internal navigation will be a subject of great importance; but the 
canals of greatest conseqtience will be those calculated to facilitate 
manufactures by the transportation of raw materials from one place 
to another, of provisions from the agricultural to the manufacturing 
districts, and of maaufacturod goods from the places where they are 
made to where they will be ven led. Instances in point occur at 
Utica ; the cheap conveyance of cotton upward, and of glass down- 
"Ward is an object of importance. The conveyance of cotton, in fact, 
is an object of primary importance all over the United States. Eve- 
j-y tosvn, village, and district will use it ; while it can be only raiset! 
in one section of the union, the southern states. Here I may notice 
the consolatory reflection that the general establishment of internal 
manufactures will probably soon indemnify the planter for the loss 
of the foreign trade. Wool and flax will be pretty much diffused 
through the states. Hemp and manuflictures of hemp will often be 
carried to a great distance. Iron will be much transported by in- 
ternal canals; and, in many instances, lumber, plaster of Paris, and 
limestone. 

Such considerations will probably induce the projectors of canals 
to look more to the internal accommodation of the country than oi 
single ports, and in every case to avail themselves, in the first in- 
stance, of what nature has done, so as to lessen the labour, and pro- 
duce an immediate advantage. 



CHAPTER CVI. 

Leave Utica, — Herkimer^ — Li f tic Falls, — Nose. 

November 13th. The day clear and pleasant. I set out at 
1 o'clock, and crossing the Mohawk river by a good wooden bridge, 
1 travelled by a turnpike road, five miles, to a toll-bar. The bot- 
toms. here are fertile; but the lands at a distance appear rough, and 
a good many pine-trees are to be seen on the brows of the hills. 
To the next toll-bar is 1 8 miles, in whicli space the valley contracts, 
the hills become more lofiy and more barren ; but the valley on the 
river, about a mile wide, is rich land, abounding with handsome set- 



NEW YOllK. 545 

tlements. I observed two streams to emerge from the hills, and 
fall into the river on the opposite side. Beyond the second toll-bar 
the road leads over a lofty bank, near the side of the river, over 
which 1 travelled a mile and a half, and then descended to the vil- 
lage of Herkimer, where I stopped all night. 

Herkimer is romantically situated in a pretty valley, and consists 
of 52 houses, containing about 360 inhabitants. It has a church, a 
court-house, i« taverns, and 5 stores; and issues 2 weekly newspapers, 

Herkimer county is well settled. The river hills arc barren ; but 
the interior of the country is said to be pretty fertile. 

Thursday, l^th. The morning was cloudy, cold, and disagreea- 
ble. About half a mile to the east of the village I passed a rapid 
stream called West Canada creek. After crossing it the road rises 
to the top of a bank elevated more than 100 feet above the river, af- 
iording a fine view of the country, which continues? miles to Little 
Falls. The valley is narrow, but well scttletl ; the road t^ood, with 
a hard gravelly bottom, and the adjoining lands stony ; but the 
wheat fields being green, exhibited a pleasing appearance. 
, As I approached the falls, I observed the valley to contract till 
the hills appeared almost to close, and the banks were singularly 
rough and stony. Above the falls I crossed a canal, handsomely 
faced with hewn stone, and I again crossed it close by the locks, as 
J entered the village, and passed on to Morgan's tavern, a hand- 
some freestone building. While breakfast was preparing I took a 
view of the village and canal ; and on my return 1 got the following 
account of the place from my discreet landlord : 

The village and land adjoining belongs to a family in England, 
.of the name of Ellis. The settlement commenced about 23 years 
ago. The village now consists of .50 houses, many of thqm built of 
stone, 6 stores, 4- taverns, church, school-house, 1 flour-mill, 1 trip- 
hammer, 1 fulling-mill, 1 saw-mill, and 1 carding-machiiie. The 
^ fall of water within tlnx-c quarters of a mile is about 50 feet, and 
there is room and water enough for 100 mills. The village lots are 
100 feet by 60, and are let on a perpetual lease of 3 dollars per an- 
num. Tiie water-falls are reserved by the pi'oprietors ibr mill-seats, 
except some that are on short lease. The j»ropriet()rs have also I- 
or 5 farms on short lea.e; but they are of no great value. 'I'hey 
offer to sell the whole for 45000 dollars, which would probably be 
a good bargain, as this is a very favourab'e- situation for enah!i-,h- 
ing cotton and Wi^olle^j nianufntturf<^. 

69 



546 TRAVELS IN 

The canal was cut about 18 years ago. It was originally con- 
structed of wood; but that falling to decay, it was rebuilt of stone 
8 years ago. There are 8 locks at this place. The toll has been 
lessened within these few years, on account of the waggons taking 
away the trade from the canal. It is at present 1 dollar 25 cents 
per ton. 

West Canada creek, which I crossed, rises on the dividing 
ridge between the waters of the St. Lawrence and those of the 
Hudson. It passes through very high lands, and brings down 
great quantities of ice in the spring. 

When breakfast was announced, I went into the parlour, where 
a very handsome young lady was seated at the breakfast-table, to 
pour out the tea; and the articles before her were so numerous, 
that I could not help taking an inventory of them; the bare in- 
sertion of which will show that the inhabitants of the back woodSf 
as they have been called, are not quite so much in the savage 
state as some late tourists would have us imagine. 

Here we had table, table-cloth, tea-tray, tea-pots, milk-pot, 
bowls, cups, sugar-tongs, tea-spoons, castors, plates, knives and 
forks, tea, sugar, cream, bread, butter, steak, eggs, cheese, 
crackers, potatoes, beets, salt, vinegar, and pepper. 

There's a bill of fare that might suit a priuce ; and in a situation 
so romantic, that it would suit a hermit. It is neiio too, and 
quite in the back ground^ being more than 200 miles from New 
York. While engaged at breakfast, my speculations naturally 
turned on Dr. Adam Smith's chapter on the division of labour. 
How many hands behoved to be employed before I could be sup- 
plied v.itii such a breakfast ! The view of the fair hands engag- 
ed in pouring out the tea was no small additional relish ; and the 
moderation of the charge surprised me — it was only 25 cents. 

As I passed through the village, 1 observed some masons build- 
ing a stone arch, the first 1 have seen building in America. Half 
a mile below the village, the road comes close to the river side, 
und is carried over a large hollow, by a wooden bridge, from 
which there is a fine view of the lower part of the falls. Below 
this there are huge masses of perpendicular rocks on each side, 
and the whole bears evident marks of having been cut thi'ough 
by the river; a proof, among numberless others, of the great an- 
jiquity of this conthient, and that a vast portion of it must have 
tucn ori<;lnal:y covertd by water. The valley immediately 



NEW YORK. .^47 

above these falls must have been originally a lake, from which 
the surplus water would be pi-ecipitated over the rocjcs, and so 
form a larj^e fall. The operation of the water would of course 
wear down the rocks, or, to use Voliiey's expression, would sas) 
a passage through them, which, in the j^rogress of ages, has pro- 
duced the effect that we now see. Without dipping deeply into 
the science of geology, winch admits of such a variety of opinion, 
it is sufficient, in a practical work of this, nature, to draw occa- 
sionally some inferences from the appearances on the surface of 
the globe. The inferences to be drawn here correspond exactly with 
those drawn from a view of the effects produced by the falls of 
Niagara, pages 511 &512of this volume. 

Beyond the falls, the bottoms on the river spread out to the 
usual breadth of about a mile, and are well cultivated. The river 
is navigable, and the sloping declivities of the hills present many 
handsome views. 

Beyond the falls the road passes through a low level tract of 
land, about '7 miles, when it rises to an eminence of at least 200 
feet, from whence there is a charming bird's eye 'view of the val- 
lies below, and of the hills, woods, and cultivated fields at a dis- 
tance; many of which had been sown with wheat, and presented 
a cheering, verdant prospect. 

After descending from this eminence, I crossed East Canada 
creek, a very rapid stream, hav!,ng numerous mills upon it. On 
the east side of the creek, 1 perceived a machiiae lor beating clay 
to make bricks. Rising again to a high bunk, I stopped at a 
tavern to feed my horse. Here 1 met the Utica stage, and saw 
a young gentleman, two days from New York, distant upwards 
of 220 miles. I was informed that this was the frontier in the 
time of the American war, where it raged with gieat fury. Our 
landlord, a German, said he carried arras during the war, and, 
should his adopted country's cause require it, he was ready to 
turn out again, though 64- years of age. 

Leaving the tavern, I passed a rapid stream, where I observed 
a saw-mill, and a hemp or fltix-mill, and, five miles below, I saw 
the Palatine bridge across the Mohawk river. 1 he road proceeds 
about 4 miles through a low bottom of stifl' clay, and at dark i 
passed a curious projecting point called the Nose, two miles from 
which I stopped at the house of M'Connolly, an intelligent Irisli' 
aian, from whom I received the. following iiUormaticn. 



548 TRAVELS IN 

The appearance of the country along the river, to the east- 
ward, is pretty mucii like that I passed over; but the bottom lands 
rather improve in quality. To the south the land is elevated and 
rough, and to the north very high and rocky. The banks of the 
hills are pretty much stripped of their timber. A lead-mine has 
been recently discovered on the south side of the river, near Can- 
ajoharie, and it has every appearance of being productive and 
valuable. The proprietor has sold 4 acres of ground on which it 
is situated, at 1000 dollars per acre ; and a company is forming ta 
work it. Iron ore is found in the hills to the north of the tavern. 
The timber here is generally of a small growth, and consists of 
beech, hemlock, and pine. The country is healthy : but the 
climate goes to great exti'cmcs, the summers being very hot, and 
the winters very cold. The i)revailing winds are from the west- 
north-west and north -north-east ; but they blow most frequently 
down the river.* I'he greater part of the storujs are from the 
north-east. In the hills, about two miles distant from the tavern, 
there area great many rattle-snakes. The landlord killed 15 on 
one stone. They were generally about 8 or 9 inches long. A- 
mong the number was a female, having 16 rattles; and, on dis- 
secting her, they found in her belly 16 eggs and a striped scjuirrel. 
When killed, she was in the act of swallowing a toad. They al- 
ways make a noise when a person is near, and consequently are 
not dangerous. In summer, they are here a good deal troubled 
with flies and musquetoes. There are a few fish in the river. 
The produce of the country is wheat, rye, corn, oats, hay, po- 
tatoes, some hemp, and a great deal of flax. Albany is the mar- 
ket, and the produce is mostly sent by waggons. Uncleared land, 
near the river, sells at from 20 to 30 dollars per acre. Cultivated 
iiarms are not for sale. Fifteen thousand dollars had been oflerc<I 
ibr a laim of 505 acres, and refused. Labourers have from 100 
to 125 dollars per annum, and their board. Mechanics about 1 
dollar to 1 dollar 25 cents per day, and their board. Cotton and 
woollen manufactures are establishing in many places. A mnnufac- 
tory of cotton and linen is about to be established at Caughna- 
waga, with a capital of 30,000 dollars, which is all subscribed. 
Tlje inhabitants consist mostly of farmers and mechanics. There 

* li niipccirs to me tliat the ivinds vhitli bl('^\ (jo>vn the river are a continuation of 
tlic current of air uhicli blows over the western country ; but it is now evidently affect- 
ed \y the high lands, ai d puts en the appearance of the north-west winds to the east 
«'f the mountains. 



NEW YORK. 5^9 

are pretty good schools ; but education is not so much attended 
to as it ought to be. There is a settlement of Scots people at 
Johnstown, and another at Broadalbin. They liave good schools, 
and are esteemed very sober and industrious. 

On hearing the latter part of this information, I resolved to 
change my route, to visit my countrymen; and my landlord ad- 
vised me to call on Daniel M'Intyre, at Broadalbin, who was 
oneofthefirbt settlers, and would be ready to give every infor- 
mation. 



CHAPTER CVIt. 

Johnstoxm, —Broadalbin,— Milton,' -Ballston Springs. 

In the morning, my obliging landlord gave me directions aS to 
the road, and 1 set out at sun rise, the weather being clear, with 
hard frost. 

To the north of the tavern, there is a low bottom about a 
quarter of a mile broad, terminated by a steep ridge about 300 
feet hiah, from whence water is conveyed in pipes to the house. 
This ridge approaches the river as it proceeds westward, close to 
which it forms the point, already mentioned, called the Nose, 
from its resemblance to the nose on the human face. 

The road passes through low and pretty fertile grounds, near 
the side of the river, about a mile, to a creek with several mills; 
and here, in pursuance of my landlord's advice, 1 turned towards 
Johnstown, distant 4 miles. The road rises by a considerable 
ascent. On reaching the heights, there are many fine and exten- 
sive views, the mountains appearing very distinctly in the south- 
west. Tiie country is pretty well cultivated, but it is bare of 
limber ; what remains is mostly pine trees. 

I stopped at a tavern, where I found a number of men assem- 
bled on some public occasion ; but I could get little information 
here, and proceeded to the printing-office, where the editor verj^ 
oblio-ingly answered all my queries. 

Johnstown contains about 60 houses and 500 inhabitants. It 
is the seat of justice of Montgomery county, and has a court- 
house, jail, an episcopal and presbyterian church, an academy, 
and 2 printing-offices. There are 9 taverns aiid 9 stores. Two 



^^^ TRAVELS IN- 



doctors «„d 8 lawyers reside in the town; the other inhabitant, 
are generally mechamcs. Johnstown was settled about the til 
of the war, and the inhabitants are mostly of Scottish and Ir,"h 
extraction. *"*" 

At 3 o'clock I set out for Broadalbin, distant 7 or 8 mile. The 

road passes over high lands, the soil rather sandy. From' evert 

pomt by the way there is an extensive view of high elevated lands 

o the north and west, of the Catskill hUls to the south and! 

the east the vast range of mountains in Vermont appear in lofh, 

■"'^"f .', "Z\"^ ''"'"'''"'"' "'" ^™-^^'- -"d stopping to Z 
qu,re for Mr. M'Intyrc, I found an old gentleman at the gate en- 
gaged m a contest with a cow, who seemed determined 1 havo 
twopumpk-nswhether he would or not. Havi„,j assisted him 
to drive off the intruder, I was proceeding with my =na,-^ « 
when he told me that he was Daniel M'Intyre. He orwre ' ' ' r v 
to lake charge of my horse, invited me into the house, andintVo- 
ducedmetohistamily; and informed me that James would b" 
home presently, when we would get all the news 

Mr. James M'Intyre soon arrived, and I speni a very pleasant 
evening wuh the family. The history of the'ettlement7B™aI 
albinwas briefly this. Mr. M'Intyre arrived from BroadalbinTn 
bcotland m tne year 177.5. In the month of May, the year fol 
owing, his family and five more moved to this place (there beini 
rt,en no settlers between it and Baliston,) when they made apur a"! 
of .600 acres of land, at 1 dollar 69 cents per acre; and imme- 
diately commenced clearing and planting. They were all farmers 
and were pretty successful, until they were involved in the troubles 
of the war by the Indians being let loose upon them. But they 
maint.,,„e<l their ground until the year before the close of the w J 
wnen they were obliged to abandon the settlement, and ed,rto 
Albany where they continued three years. On their return to 
the settlement a few more families joined them, and they have 
contmued to flourish ever since. The township now contZ 
•22SS inhabitants, of whom about one-third are Scottish X 
others are principally from New England and New Jersey. ' The 
area ottbe township is about 24,000 acres, all arable, icept a 

t tJ ^ ';."',!• "", '^°'"P'"-'»" «"• the western country, i, 
1, pretty good lor this place. The timber is beech and maple, 
wtlh some pine, hemlock, elm, ash, and bass-wood. The climat 



NEW YORK. 



551 



is very healthy ; but the winters are long and severe, commencing 
the 1st of December, and continuing till the middle of April. The 
inhabitants are sober and industrious. They manufacture the most 
of their clothing ; and there are in the township a paper-mill, an 
oil-mill, 6 grist-mills, 3 fulling-mills, and 2 carding-machines. 
Sheep farming has been of late a good deal attended to, and the me- 
rino breed has been introduced with considerable success. 

After supper the family assembled to prayers, and the whole was 
conducted in the primitive mode practised by the peasantry of Scot- 
land, so beautifully described in Burns' Cotter's Saturday Night, 
of which I shall transcribe the last Stanza, and close the transac- 
tions of the day. 

Then kneeling down to Heaven's Eternal King, 

The saint, the father, and the husband prays : 
* Hope springs exulting on triiimjihant wing,' 

TUat thus they all shall meet in future day* 
There ever bask in uncreated rays, 

No more to sigh or shed the bitter tear, 
Together hymning theij- Creator's praise. 

In such society yet still more dear, 
While circling time moves round in an eternal sphere i 

November 1 6. The last evening was very cold, and this morn- 
ing there was hard frost. I prepared to take my leave of my hos- 
pitable entertainers ; but I could not get away till after breakfast. 
The old man recommended me particularly to call upon his son, 
the comptroller, at Albany ; and James accompanied me to see Mr* 
Proudfoot, the clergyman, of Scots descent, and married to a Scots 
woman, one of the " bonnie lasses" of Ayrshire. Mr. Proudfoot 
is agreeably settled, and to his ministerial charge joins the very 
laudable occupation of teaching an academy, a plan which every 
country gentleman should imitate. Mrs. Proudfoot told me Mr* 
Law, her father, with his famil}', were comfortably settled about six 
miles distant. 

From this place to Milton is 1 2 miles, the lands but indifferent ; 
but the views magnificent, particularly of the Vermont mountains, 
which can be seen at the distance of 60 or 70 miles. Milton is a 
small place, consisting of a few frame houses only ; but, being paint- 
ed white, they look neat : and the town is adorned with a very pret • 
ty church and steeple. 

The soil is good round Milton, which accounts for the handsome 
appearance of the houses ; and a quaker meeting-house denoted 



552 TKAVKLS IN 

that the ground was partly occupied by some of those sagacious 
people. 

Beyond this the soil is very sandy and barren, with pine trees of 
n small growth ; but the people seem determined to make amends 
for the sterility of the soil in another way ; for passing a creek I saw 
an elegant new building of seven stories high, which had been re- 
cently erected for the manufacture of woollen cloth. From thence 
the road winds through the woods, and the soil continues poor all 
the way to Ballston, which I reacheil in the evening. 

I took a view of the town as I passed through it ; and it is soon 
seen,- as it contains 70 dwelling-houses only. It lies in a hollow, 
and the spring is at the lower end of it, near a small creek. The 
houses are mostly built of wood, and some of the boarding-houses 
are very handsome. One is uncommonly superli, and is said to 
have cost upwards of 60,000 dollars. 

Soon after I reached the village, I went to see the spring. It is 
inclosed by a railing, the interior being handsomely paved with 
stone, and the water is secured from all filth U/ a metallic tube of 
about 18 inches diameter, elevated a few feet above the top of the 
spring, which rises copiously, with a boiling motion, and the sur- 
plus water passes oft' by a horizontal pipe. The water was quite a- 
greeable to my taste, and produced an exhilarating effect upon the 
spirits. It emits a light smell, but not unpleasant, and is copiously 
impregnated with fixed air, or carbonic acid gas 

The medicinal virtues of these waters have of late attracted much 
attention, and Ballston has become a place of fashionable resort in the 
summer season. The general effect produced by the use of the 
waters is purgative, diuretic, tonic, and exhilarating. They are 
therefore recommended in dyspepsia in all its complicated forms, 
gravel, rheumatisms, diseascsof the urinary system, cutaneous erup- 
tions, dropsy, scrophula, worms, and some cases of fevers. They 
liave also been extolled in consumptions ; but their power is very 
doubtful in that disease, to which indeed it is obvious that the only 
flTicacious remedy must be by breathing ; and it is to be wished 
ihat the faculty would turn their attention to it more in that point 
of view. I have heard of extraordinary cures being performed by 
living among cows, and am pi;etty well satisfied that a specific for 
ulcerated lungs, when not too far gone, will be ultimately found, 
and successfully administered by inspiration. A highly oxidated 
jjlate of the atmosphere we know to be against the patient, and the 



NEW YORK. 553 

air arising from the decomposition of balmy substances is in his 
favour. But those hints are by the by, and I return to the ana- 
lysis of this celebrated spring. But who shall agree when doctors 
differ? Some experimentalists affirm they contain three times 
their bulk of fixed air, while others sa}' they do not contain one- 
third of this quantity. This diffierence, being more tlian 200 per 
cent. ! is much too large for me to reconcile; so I s.hall content my- 
self with stating their probable component parts, ^vithout affixing the 
proportions. 

Hydroo;en jjas. 7 'ru j. . r . 

^^ ° ^ > 1 he component parts of water. 
Oxygen gas. j 

Carbonic acid. Carbonate of soda. 

Muriate of soda* Carbonate of iron. 

Carbonate of lime. Carbonate of miignesia. 

I called on Mr. Brown, editor of one of the newspapers, and he 
introduced me to a Mr. M'Intosh, from Crieff, in Scotland, who 
told me he was very well acquainted with my fath er's relations. He 
mentioned a fact which I knew before, that the original name was 
Graham, and mentioned that some of our family, of the name of 
Graham, were settled in New York. From these two gentlemen 
I got all needful information, from which I sliali transcribe a fcv*- ad- 
ditional notes. 

Ballston is situated in latitude 43° north, and is 2S miles from 
Albany. There are two roads, one by Schenectady, the other by 
Waterford ; and it makes a very agreeable jaunt to go the one way 
and return the other. Schenectady is one of the finest inland cities 
in America. On the other road is the pleasant village of Water- 
ford, and the Cohoes falls. 

The village is mostly supported by the visitors to the springs, so 
that, except in the sunnner season, it is but a dull place. Board- 
ing at the principal houses is 8 dollars per week ; but there are small- 
er houses having inferior accommodations, at 4- dollars. There is 
an academy and a library in the village, and besides taverns and 
boarding-houses, there are five dry-goods and grocery stores. 
There arc two public papers iss»ued weekly, of which the one circu- 
lates 700, the other 400. 

The prevaihng winds are from the north-west, and t]ie winters are 

cold. 

Saratoga springs are seven miles to the northward, and are es- 
teemed stronffcr than those of Ballston. 



554 



TRAVELS IN 



CHAPTER CVIII. 



JVatcrfurd, — Cuhoes falls, — Albany, 

J^OVEMBER 17th. There had been a great deal of rain last 
night and this morning; but it cleared up about ] 1 o'clock, and I 
set out at 12. The land in the immediate neighbourhood was poor, 
and continued so during the first three miles of my journey. I pass- 
ed a methodist meeting-house, after which the land improves, the 
soil being mostly clay, and the timber partly oak and beech. The 
land is level, and ihe farms jrood ; the farm-houses bearing tcsti- 
mony to the accumulation of wealth. A mile further on the soil 
becomes poor, and the houses in their turn bear witness to the po- 
verty of the inhabitants. Two miles through these lands there is an 
opening, and a most extensive view to the eastward. Ten miles 
*rom Ballston 1 passed a stream of water which nobody could tell 
me the name of: after this I passed through a farm on the side of 
a hill, two miles from which I came to a tavern, where I stopped 
to feed my horse. 

Leaving this, the land still continued poor and sandy, the timber 
mostly pine trees ; but the settlements are pretty thick for five miles, 
to a little village, and both soil and settlements improve for four 
miles more to Waterford, where I took up my lodgings at the Union 
coiTee-house. 

Waterford was laid out about the year 17S3, and is handsome- 
ly situated above the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers. 
The streets are regular, ci'ossuiff one another at riirht angles : and 
it consists of about 130 houses, containing about 1000 inhabitants. 
The houses are generally good, some ot them elegant ; they are part- 
ly frame and partly brick, but the taste for brick predominates. 
The public buildings are 2 churches and a school-house ; and there 
are 4? taverns, 25 stores, and ] newspaper. The inhabitants of Wa- 
terford consist chiefly of mechanics and their families ; and there 
are two clergymen, three doctors, three schoolmasters and ten law- 
yers. The village lots are 65 feet in front, by 130 deep, and sell for 
from 100 to 2500 dollars. Boarding is 2 dollars 50 cents per week, 
by the year: the prices of provisions arc nearly the same as at Al- 
bany. There arc several mills on the Mohawk river below the falls, 
one of which is near the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson. 



NEW YORK. . 555 

A company has recently been ineorporated to carry on manuflic- 
tures at this place, and they propose to make every article for which 
they find a demand. 

The country round is handsome and very healthy, and the soil 
is possessed of every variety from good to bad. The price ot land 
is from 2 dollars 50 cents to 75 dollars per acre. Good wood land 
sells as high as that in the improved state. 

The Hudson is navigable to this place in vessels of 50 tons bur- 
den, and the legislature of New Yoriv have of late granted 45,000 
dollars to improve the navigation between Waterford and Troy. 
There is a handsome bridge over the Hudson at this place. 

November 18th. The morning was clear, witli hard frost; the 
wind north-west. Previous to leaving Waterford I rode to the 
middle of the bi-idge, and had a view of the river and surrounding 
scenery. The bridge has six piers, and is handsomely built of wood. 
The river is rapid, and the junction with the Mohawk is seen a 
little below. There are a number of islands on the west side, and 
the town of Lansingburg is handsomely situated on the east side. 
The bottom lands are good ; but the country soon swells out into 
high hills, of which the sides are poor, and covered with pine wood. 

As I returned, I kept along the banks of the Mohawk, where I 
observed the current very rapid, and the soil poor and sandy. A 
mile and a half from Waterford there is a bridge across the river. 
On approaching it the road passes through a bed of black slate, 
which seems to indicate a stratum of coal below. About a quarter 
of a mile above the bridge, the Cohoes falls appear, and, from the 
bridge fronting them, there is a very fine view. I stood a while 
to contemplate it, but my admiration was lost in the recollection 
of the amazing Ms of Niagara. The river is here about 250 
yards wide, and the falls are perpendicular, but some parts are 
broken, and the rocks are to be seen through them. At the end 
of the bridge I paid a toll of 6^ cents ; and close by the toll-bar 
I perceived the nine mile stone from Albany. 

The road proceeds close by the river side, the hills being pret- 
ty lofty to the right, the soil indifferent, but the road excellent. 
Six miles above Albany, on the opposite side of the river, is 
Troy, a handsome village, mostly built with brick. Towards Al- 
bany I passed an elegant house, the seat of Mr. Van Rensselaer, 
patron of the city ; and passing through well-improved iields, I 
arrived at 1 1 o'clock, when I took up my lodgings at the coffee- 
house in State-street. 



^56 TRAVELS IN 

My tour of discovery being completed, I had no very im- 
portant infornialion to receive at Albany ; but I still continued 
my jouTDal, and I'vlr. Fellows of Geneva having favoured me with 
letters of introduction to Mr. Southwick and Mr. North, these 
two gcHtleaien s-howcd me a great deal of attention, and obligingly 
answered all my inquiries. In obedience to the request of my 
friend Mr. M'Intyre, 1 called on his son, the comptroller, and he 
also showed me much attention. I was quite pleased with my visit. 

Albany is the vseat of government of the state of New York, 
and is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, at the bead 
of tide water, 180 miles from the sea. It runs nearly a mile along 
the rivcrj and about half a mile back from it. The city is divided 
into streets, some of which are spacious, but others rather narrow 
and irregular. They are however pretty convenient, and there is 
a line of excellent wharfs and warehouses. The houses amount to 
about 1300, and the inhabitants to nearly 10,000. The houses are 
mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant. The state- 
house stands on an elevated situation at the head of State-street, 
and is a very handsome building, with most splendid and convenient 
apartments for the legislature to meet in. The old state-house is 
also in State-street, and is occupied by the different public offices. 
The other public buildings are the arsenal, powder-house, citj 
library, Shanks, 10 churches, 2 market houses, 2 masonic lodges, 
a theatre^ and Cook's reading-room, an institution probably better 
supplied with newspapers, and other periodical publications, than 
any other in the United States. 

The city is well supplied with water. There are two excellent 
springs three miles to the westward, from whence it is conveyed in 
j)ipes, to every part of the city. Lots in the principal streets are 
as high as in New York, and the rent of houses and stores is in 
pro{)ortion. This being the great mart, in which the trade of an 
extensive back country centres, it is well supplied with provisions ; 
but the outlet to tiie great connnercial city, New York, is so easy, 
bv the fine river Hudson, that all articles which can be easily ship- 
ped, are kept pretty higli. i^'lour is about 10 dollars per barrel ; 
beef 6 dollars ; pork 5 dollars per cwt. ; bacon 12 cents per lb.; 
fowls 12i each; geese 25 ; turkeys 62; cyder 1 dollar 50 cents per 
barrel; beer 3 to 10 dollars, according to quality; porter 7 dol- 
lars 25 cents. Board from 2 to 4 dollars. House-rent for me- 
chanics 20 to 60 dollars. 



NEW YORK. 557 

The principal manufactures at Albany are those of grain, brew- 
ing and distilling. There arc no manufactories of cloth in the city^ 
but there are several in the neighbourhood, and there is a disposi- 
tion in the citizens to encourage them, though apparently against 
their interest, the trade of the city being almost wholly commercial. 
Tiie principal trade is by the river, on which is sent dov/n grain 
and provisions, timber, malt-liquors, and spirits ; and f hey receive 
in return groceries, dry-goods, hardware, and crockery, to sup- 
ply a great part of the country. American manufactured glass, 
iiowever, begins to make a prominent appearance in the warehouse ; 
and they will, no doubt, feel- the advantage of other articles of 
American manufacture soon. Albany, from its situation, must be 
always a place of extended commerce. At present it suffers by 
the re-action of an overstrained foreign commerce, but that will 
be but temporary. Internal manufactures and commerce, being 
once organized, will more than compensate for the loss of the other. 

The citizens of Albany are very mixed. The original settlement 
was by the Dutch, and their descendants form a very prominent 
part of the society. Of Scottish settlers there are a great many, 
and the rest are principally New Englanders. In such an assem- 
blage, we may naturally look for industry and enterprise, and a 
general attention to education and the improvement of the mind, 
all of which are very perceptible in the citizens. There are good 
mechanics in all the different branches ; and there are 10 clergymen, 
20 doctors, and 45 lawyers. The schools are numerous; the li- 
brary and reading-room have been already noticed. Two newspa- 
pers are published, each twice a week, which have a pretty exten- 
sive circulation. That the place is healthy, appears in the counte- 
nances of the ladies, many of whom are handsome, with beautiful 
florid complexions. That it is cold in winter, is indicated by the 
general use of stoves, the liard frost in the ground, and the appear- 
ance of snow ; so, for fear of being storm-staid, I shall close this 
chapter, and hurry off to New York. 



CHAPTER CIX. 

North Bivr Steam Boat, — Highlands, — Stont^ Point, — Klxv Yo}J^, 

^ OVEMBER 20th. My anticipations were realized ; there wa» 
a (onsiderable fall of snow this morning. I engaged a passage for 



558 TRAVELS IN 

my horse by one of the packets, fare 4 dollars, exclusive of board ; 
and for myself by the steam-boat, fare 7 dollars, including board; 
and, getting on board of that elegant conveyance, we started from 
the wharf at 9 o'clock. The snow continued to fall, and the 
weather was very hazy, so that we could not enjoy the view on the 
river, but we had a very comfortable view in the boat. The cabin 
was sufficiently large to accommodate 80 or 100 people; the births 
were neatly mounted with drapery, and contained good clean bed- 
ding ; there was a good stove in the room ; our company, though 
not numerous, were sociable and agreeable; and our captain kept 
a most excellent table. 1 should mention that this was the North 
river steam-boat, captain Roorbach, and to that gentleman's jw- 
liteness I was indebted for a variety of information regarding this 
river. Four other steam-boats were upon the river, but it was sup- 
posed that two of them would be stopped, as they were started 
without the sanction of the patentees. A most superb new boat had 
just been started by the patentees, Livingston and Fulton, who are 
entitled to great praise for their exertions in bringing into ac- 
tive operation an invention of such importance to the navigation 
ol the American inland waters. 

The banks of the river are nearly the same as above Albany, for 
20 miles, to Hudson ; the soil is pretty good, and the settlements 
thick on both sides. The river is a noble stream, augmented, as 
it proceeds, by a great number of tributary streams on each side. 
Towards night, we were four miles below Poughkeepsie, and the 
captain, thaiking it too dark to run on, came to anchor, and re- 
mained during the night. 

November 21st. The morning was cold and cloudy, with a 
north-west wind ; and a good deal of snow lay on the ground. 
We got under weigh at 6 o'clock. At 7 we were opposite New- 
burgh, a good landing on the west side, and five miles beyond 
this, we reached the highlands, through which we sailed 20 miles. 
Here the banks are steep and very romantic, in many places re- 
sembling the scenery on the Ohio; but there is a vast difference in 
the fertility of the soil. On the Ohio it is rich, with a most luxu- 
riant profusion of timber. Here it is poor, and the timber is small 
in proportion. Each river, however, has its peculiar beauties. 
We passed a number of cascades issuing from the hills. At Stony 
Point, the remains of an old fort are still to be seen, in a very com- 
pianding situation. Here the river makes a sharp turn to the cast* 
and the place was pointed out where the Americans had a chain 



KEW YORK. 559 

across in the time of war, which we were informed was broken by 
the British ships. The river appears here like a small lake, and 
being land-locked on all sides by lofty hills, forms a romantic and 
singular view. Soon after this, we emerged from among the 
mountains. 

When we approached the low lands, we saw a number of very 
handsome seats. The land on the east side is low, and appears 
fertile. To the eastward a bay is perceived, which appears like a 
continuance of the river, while the real channel is apparently lost 
among the mountains. The west bank continues high, though 
cultivated a considerable way down. At length, however, it be- 
comes a craggy precipice, almost perpendicular, and upwards of 
500 feet high. The scenery is altogether very grand, and in sum- 
mer, when the fields and woods are in blossom, sailing on this 
river, by the steam-boat, must be delightful. 

There are good turnpike roads on each side of the river, and 
there are very thick settlements all the way between New York 
and Albany. The principal towns on the east side are : 





Inhabitants. 




Inhabitantsv 


Kinderhook 


250 


On the west side, 




Hudson 


4000 


New Baltimore 






Redhook 




Cochsakia 






Rhynbeck 




Katskill 




2000 


Poughkeepsie 


500 


Kingston 






Fishkill 




Newburg 






Peekskill 











We passed the Jersey line on the west side, and, soon after, 
the river which separates York Island from the main land. At 
five o'clock we reached New York, where I was safely landed on 
the wharf, after travelling nearly 2400 miles : and with gratitude 
to the Supreme Being, for conducting me through the journey 
so much to my satifaction, I proceeded to the house of my friend, 
where I was further gratified by learning that my family and 
friends were all well. 

In my progress through this interesting state I met with " A 
Brief Topographical and Statistical Manual," a work of con- 
siderable merit, from which I have extracted the following statis- 
tical table and remarks. 



560 



TUAVELS IiSr 





H 




^ 


t-i 




^ 





K 


IS 


5 01 


^ 


c 

3 




1 


© 

3 




p 

3 


1 


i5 




= 






s» 




b 






6 


0' 


a 


s 


oS 


3 
en 






Popu- 33 




Yards of 


ac" 


2, 


5' 







Counties. 




lation. 







Cloth. 


f 


P" 




•-J 

p' 


?* 


5 

1 

5' 


Albany 


8 


34661 


2 


1169 


232554 


31 


4 


5 


~o 


10 


8 


Allegany 


5 


1 942 


1 


51 


14148 


2 


4 










Broome 


6 


8130 


8 


409 


106210 


6 


9 




1 


1 




Columbia 


11 


323 M 


6 


1235 


616780 


54 


8 


1 


8 


22 


23 


Clinton 


5 


8002 


4 


218 


47865 


12 






1 


4 


4 


Cayuga 


10 


29843 


10 


1360 


340871 


19 


47 






11 


11 


Cortlandt 


6 


8868 


7 


400 


67226 










7 


4 


Chenango 


14 


21704 


14 


890 


220849 


8 


25 


4 




13 


15 


Chataughque 


2 


2381 


2 


inclu. 


in Genesee 














Cataragus 


1 


458 





ib. 


ib. 














Duchess 


16 


51434 


14 


1342 


358059 


30 


25 


2 




35 


25 


Delaware 


14 


20303 


11 


886 


2O2096 


29 


11 




22 


13 


14 


Essex 


11 


9477 


8 


272 


104285 


7 


8 




6 


3 


6 


Franklin 


■ 4 


2717 


3 


63 


15910 










2 


2 


.Greene 


7 


19536 


7 


314 


50357 


25 


4 






12 


11 


Genesee 


10 


12588 


4 


600 


194719 


24 


19 


1 




6 


7 


Herkimei 


10 


22046 


8 


1600 


296535 


51 


14 






16 


14 


Jefferson 


12 


15140 


12 


660 


160503 


16 


16 


2 


11 


8 


5 


King's 
Lewis 


6 


8303 


1 


112 


40465 


6 


2 




3 






7 


6433 


5 


306 


76500 


11 


7 






4 


4 


Montgomery 


15 


41214 


11 


1288 


237252 


45 


6 






20 


19 


Maclison 


11 


25144 


9 


1468 


350775 


51 


27 


2 




15 


13 


New- York 


1 


96373 


2 


3 


2757 


9 


11 


15 






2 


Niajrara 


4 


6132 


7 


inclu. 


in Genesee 








5 






Otsego 


21 


38802 


14 


2037 


470S16 


36 


2S 


1 




52 


27 


Onondago 


13 


25987 


10 


1016 


506586 


31 


26 


2 


4 


16 


21 


Ontario 


24 


42032 


16 


1905 


524777 


57 


76 




10 


20 


22 


Oneida 


26 


33792 


17 


720 


254270 


20 


24 


4 




24 


10 


Orange 


11 


34347 


12 


1245 


316081 


49 


57 




2 


11 


29 


Queen's 


6 


19556 


7 


486 


187031 


10 


2 




9 


S 


4 


Rockland 


4 


7758 


5 


329 


28044 


7 


7 




4 


1 


5 


Richmond 


4 


5347 





59 


52100 


2 


5 











Ri'nsselaer 


13 


36309 


8 


1824 


447111 


28 


2 


1 




14 


12 


Suffolk 


9 


21113 


21 


1062 


213697 


37 








8 


7 


Sullivan 


7 


6108 


5 


262 


50991 


11 








1 




Schenectady 


4 


10201 


ii 


50 


7500 






1 


3 


1 


4 


Saratoga 
Scholiarie 


14 


33147 


12 


1133 


266765 


33 


2 






16 


7 


■ 8 


IS 945 


7 


736 


171953 


14 


4 




14 


15 


12 


St. I^wrence 


12 


788.- 


10 


247 


56073 


12 


2 






5 


2 


Seneca 


7 


16609 


9 


601 


172713 


li 


26 






7 


10 


Steuben 


9 


7246 


9 


309 


94040 


5 


21 






5 


2 


Tioga 


9 


789y 


8 


289 


102080 


7 


29 






5 


5 


Ulster 


15 


26576 


6 


1569 


54^626 


41 


17 






15 


26 


West Chester 


21 


3027 i. 


11 


365 


356470 


9 


16 






7 


8 


Washington 


21 
4.52 


44289 


19 


2200 


786254 


37 


2 


2 


11 


18 

427 


15 
41.5 


Total, 


'959220'56'i 


33068 


9099703 


867 


591 


42 


124 



NEW YORK 561 

The sheep returned for Duchess county were 83,855; Albany 
34,342; Cayuga 49,872; Onondago 44,893; Jeflerson 20,000. 
It is calculated that the whole state contains 1,280,000. 

The horses in Duchess county were 14,311. It is calculated 
that the whole state contains 300,000. 

The cattle in Duchess county were 51,650. It is calculated 
that the whole state contains 1 ,000,000. 

Roads and bridges, exclusive of those made by counties and 
individuals, are supported by 135 turnpike companies, with a 
capital of 7,558,000 dollars ; and 36 bridge companies, with a 
capital of 509,000 dollars. The turnpike roads contracted for 
extend over 4,500 miles, about one third of whicli is completed. 

The bank stock of the state amounts to 11,690,000 dollars. 

The school fund amounts to 483,326 dollars, exclusive of 
314,770 acres of land. The revenue last year amounted to 
36,427 dollars. 

The state funds, exclusive of about one million acres of land, 
amount to 4,191,803 dollars; and the state debts are 880,000 
dollars. 



CHAPTER ex. 

United States. 

1 HE objects of the gi-eatest importance in the United States 
have already been noticed in a review of the individual states and 
territories ; but there are a few circumstances of a general nature, 
which can with more propriety be introduced under this head. 

Viewing Louisiana as forming a part of the territory of the 
United States, we may consider the countiy as extending from 
north latitude 29° to beyond 48°; and from east longitude 10° 
to west longitude 36°. Tlie extreme length, from east to west, 
is about 2160 miles, and breadth, from north to south, 1494. The 
medium length is about 1780 miles, and the medium breadth about 
1060, making nearly 1,883,806 square miles, or 1205,635,840 
acres. 

The face of the country, mountains, rivers, minerals, soil, and 
climate, have all been partially noticed; but attempts have of late 
been made to establish a general tlieoi*y of the chmate of the 

71 



562 TRAVfiLS IN 

climate of the United States, and I shall lake a brief review of 
that subject. 

Volney, the celebrated French traveller, was the first who de- 
veloped this theory. He seems to have studied the subject with 
ardent attention, and to have been assisted by information from 
ijentlenicn oi accurate observation in America. His work dis- 
plays great physical research. Dr. Mease has followed on the 
same subject. Adoptino- Volney's theory as a basi^, he has avail- 
ed himself of additional local information, and endeavoured 
to correct its errors, and supply its defects. These works contain 
information on this important subject well worth the attention of 
the student in physical science. 1 shall not, however, review 
them in detail, but briefly state a few general conclusions result- 
ing from them, taken in connection with other facts that have 
come to my knowledge during a personal investigation. 

The climate of the United States, independent of the differ- 
ence of temperature induced by a change of latitude, ?eems to be 
affected by five prominent circumstances: 

ist. Ihe trade winds. 

Cd. The aulf stream. 

3d. The fogs of Newfoundland. 

4th. The winds from the polar regions. 

5th. The Allegany mountains.* 
1st. The trade winds were noticed, in chap. II. as affecting 
the ocean. I shall now trace them in their j)rogress over the 
land. By looking at a chart of the Atlantic ocean, it will be 
perceived that the coast of South America has a slanting di- 
rection from the equator to Trinidad; and it may be noticed that 
this slant is prolonged to the south-east, to cape St. Roque, in 
south latitude 5°, west longitude 36° 26'. The course is nearly 
north-west, the distance above 2000 mile>, and the interior of 
the country is composed of \tvy high lands, rising in many places 
to lolly mountains. This naturally slants off the current of air 
to the northward, and by contracting its bulk increases its veloci- 
ty ; its motion being still further accelerated by the same means 
in its passage through the Caribbee Islands. In its progress 
through the Caribbean sea it is further contracted, and gets a 

* By the general term, Allegany mountains, is meant the whole chain of moun- 
tains extending from the Misbissippi Teriiti;i7 ^^ the northern extremity of the union. 



NEW YOBK. 563 

second impulse to the northward between the lofty isjancl of Ja- 
maica and the Mosquito shore ; and finally passes through the 
narrow channel between Yucatan and the island of Cuba, horn 
whence it issues to tlie northward, not unlike the wind from a pair 
of bellows. It then diverges, in three grand divisions, along the 
North American continent. Oiie branch takes a north-west di- 
rection, and, passing over New Mexico, and thence between the 
Stony mountains and the Pacific ocean, spends its force about 
north latitude 52°. Another branch takes a north-east direction, 
blowing partly over tlie mountains, but principally between the 
mountains and the Atlantic, and spends its force about the Poto- 
mac or Patapsco rivers. This branch is afiectcd partly by the 
mountains, and partly by the trade whids to the north ot t'le 
islands. It is very unsteady, which circumstance subjects that dis- 
trict of country to rapid changes. But the most important 
branch to this inquiry is that which proceeds up the valley of the 
Mississippi, whicli may be reckoned to extend from the Allegany 
mountains to the chains of mountains beyond the Mississippi, an 
immense region, known by the name of the Western Country. 
The operation of this current was quite visible in the course of 
my progi'css through that country. From the time I passed the 
Allegany mountains until I left Pittsburg, it prevailed seven days 
out of ten. In my passage down the Ohio it prevailed fiftoen 
out of tv/enty-six, and live of the others were calm. From the falls 
of the Ohio to lake Erie it prevailed twenty days out of thirty-one, 
and two days were calm. From Cleveland, on lake Erie, to 
Utica, it prevailed ten days out of twenty- three. I have elsewhere 
remarked, that a branch of it seems occasionally to blow down 
tlie Mohawk river ; and its influence is often sensibly felt at Mon- 
trcalj .-on the St. Lawrence. It is obvious that this wind must 
have gfeat influence upon the climate; it fans the air in summer, 
and renders it mild and humid in winter. 

2d. The gulf stream was noticed chap. II. This current be- 
ing warmer than the surrounding ocean, the atmosphere above 
it is proportionably affected, and being contiguous to the American 
coast, the winds blowing over it, impregnated with its warmth 
and moisture, will influence the cliuuite accordingly. This iufhi- 
ence is particularly felt in the southern states, where the stream is 
from within 30 to 60 Uiilcs of the coast. Bejond Cape Ilatteras it 
is not so apparent, and beyond Cape Cod it ii hardly known. .South 



564' TRAVELS IN 

and south-east winds are those subject to be infliier^cd by it on 
the American coast. 

3d. The fogs of Newfoundland are of great extent, and he in a 
north-east direction from the United States. North-east winds, 
therefore, w ill in spring, summer, and fall, be chilly and damp, 
in winter they will be loaded with snow. The part of the United 
States most subject to their influence are the New England states, 
with part of the state? of New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jer- 
sey. 

4th. The winds from the polar regions are well known in the 
United States by the name of north-westers ; and it is somewhat 
singular that they are much more frequent to the cast than to the 
west of the mountains ; and often exhibit a very different appear- 
ance. To the east they are cold, cool, or agreeable, according to the 
season and situation ; and are uniformly pure, dry, elastic, and 
invigorating. To the west they assume every variety, but are 
often accompraiied by cl6uds, rain, hail, and snow ; particularly 
in the vicinity of the great lakes. To account for these circum- 
stances, it is necessary to view the Allegany mountains as connect- 
ed with the subject; and I cannot better elucidate it (han in the 
words of the in;;*:enious Volney. " The Allegany is the shore of 
an airy lake, which, below the level of the top of this bank, is at 
rest, unaffected by the movements of the stratum above it. Hence 
the south-west wind traverses the valley of the Mississippi and 
Ohio, Kentucky and the contiguous countries, as far as the valley 
of the. St. Lawrence, by which it flows off, while the north-west 
stream glides over it diagonally, and, overtopping the highest 
mountains, pours down on the maritime country, where its force 
is augmented by its own specific gravity, the slope of the earth's 
svrface, and the vacuity above the ocean in the south-east." 

The most remarkable feature in the climate east of the moun- 
tains is the sudden and great changes, from heat to cold and from 
moist to dry. These changes are most renjarkable on the sea- 
bonrd. In the interior the climate is more settled, and amongst 
the mountains it is colder than to the cast or west of them. In 
the western country the chmate is more settled and more mild 
than to the east of the mountains, but this district is subject to a 
good deal of rain in winter. 

Volney has drawn thefoilowinggencral conclusions on the subject: 
Ist. The climate of the maritime region is colder in winter, and 



NEW YORK. 565 

warmer in summer, than that of the countries in Europe under the 
same parallels. 

2dly. The daily variations are more abrupt in the maritime coun- 
try than in Europe. 

3d. The temperature of the valleys of the Ohio and Mississippi 
is warmer, in the proportion of three degrees of latitude, than that" 
of the maritime districts. 

The two first positions are correct, and the last is so also as to 
the general effect upon vegetables and fruits ; but to convey a cor- 
rect idea of the matter, it should be kept in view, that while the 
western country is warmer upon the whole, it is cooler in the sum- 
mer season than the same parallels on the other side of the moun- 
tains. This, however, has its limits, for it appears that to the 
north of 44'^ or 45° the eastern and western country are nearly as- 
similated, and to the south beyond 32° the same effect takes place, 
with this exception, that the breeze to the westward is more perma- 
nent and steady, which will probably contribute, with other fa- 
vourable circumstances, to render Nev/ Orleans more healthy than 
Charleston and Savannah. 

The climate has been divided into four sections, the coldest, 
middle, hot, and temperate ; to which I shall add a fifth, the warm, 
and proceed to mark the different lines of distinction. 

1st. To the coldest I would assign that portion lying north east 
of a line drawn from the east end of lake Ontario, to the east end 
of Eong Island sound. In this region the winters commence about 
the first of December, and last till the end of March ; and are very 
severe. The heat of summer commences in June, and ends in 
August, Both heat and cold go to great extremes ; but the coun- 
try is generally healthy. 

2d. The middle may be included between the aforesaid line and 
a line drawn from the east end of Lake Erie to where the moun- 
tains cross the New York state line — thence along the top of the 
Allegany ridge to the latitude of Washington — thence due east 
through Washington to the Atlantic. In this region the Irost is 
less steady, though often severe; and the rivers are frequently ob- 
structed by ice. Towards the south and east, the winter weather ij 
variable, passing frequently from cold to mild, and from snow to 
rain. The winters commence about the middle of December, and 
end in February. The heat of summer commences in May, and 
ends in September. 



566 TRAVELS IN 

Sd. The hot climate may be defined by running a h'ne along the 
ridge at the head of tide waters, from Washington through Rich- 
mond in Virginia, Raleigh in North Carolina, Columbia in South 
Carolina, Milledgeville in Georgia ; and extending from thence to 
where the 32d degree of latitude crosses the Mississippi above 
Natches. In this region, between that line and the Atlantic and 
Gulf of Mexico, frost and snow are but of short duration, and to 
the south they are seldom seen. The winters are very v;iriable, 
but generally pleasant and healthy. The summers commence ill 
April and end in November ; and the heat is often very oj^pressive. 

4th. The warm region extends from the last mentioned Ime to 
the foot of the mountains, and winding round their southern ex- 
tremity in Georgia, latitude 34° SO', the line may thence be pro- 
tracted due west to the Mississippi. In this region the weather is 
more settled, and though the summers have nearly the same dura- 
tion as in the hot region, tlie heat is more moderate. 

5th. The temperate region includes all the space beyond these 
lines as far west as the latitude of i 7°, and north to lat. 43° ; be- 
yond which my researches did not extend. The summers com- 
lacnce in April, and end in October. The winters commence in 
December, and end in February. The springs and falls are de- 
lightful, and both summers and winters are moderate. 

America was first discovered by Christopher Columbus, on the 
12ih of October, 1492. 

In 1499, an officer sailed on a voyage of discovery, accompanied 
by Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine, and a man of science, who, 
on his return to Europe, published the first description of the new 
world, in consequence of which he received an honour, eminently 
due to Columbus, that of affixing his name to this vast continent. 

The settlement of the United States took place as follows ; 

1610 Virginia by Lord Delaware 

1614 S New York "> i, ^^.e Dutch 

^ JN'ew Jersey j . 

1623 New Hampshire by a small English colony 

1627 < T>*^ awa e / , ^^^ Swedes & Finlanders 
^ rennsylvania 3 -^ 

1628 Massachusetts by .Tohn Endicott & Co. 
1633 Maryland by Lord Baltimore 
1635 Connecticut by Mr. Fenwick 

1635 Rhode Island by Roger Williams 

1699 South Carolina by Governor Sayle 

1728 North Carolina from South Carohna 



UNITED STATES 567 

1732 Georgia by General Oglethorpe. 

1764 Vermont from New England 
1773 Kentucky by Daniel Boone 

l??^ Tennessee from North Carolina, &c. 

1787 Oliio by the Ohio and other companies 

1803 Louisiana ceded by France. 

The following are some of the most remarkable events before 
and since the revolution. 

1 765 The stamp act passed 
1773 The tea destroyed at Boston 
1774' The first congress held 

1 775 Battles of Lexington and Bunker's-hill 

1776 Declaration of Independence, July ^th 
1778 Articles of confederation agreed on 

1780 Surrender of Lord Cornwallis, October 19th 

1782 Treaty of peace, November 30th 

1787 The federal constitution adopted 

1789 George Washington elected president 

1797 John Adams elected president 

1801 Thomas Jefferson elected president 

1809 James Madison elected president 

1812 War declared against Britain, June 18th. 

The annexed statistical table presents a summary view of the 
extent ot the country, population, chief towns, climate, produce, &c. 

The agriculture and produce of the several states and terri- 
tories have been noticed. 

The progress of manufactures has also been attended to, parti- 
cularly in a review of the secretary of the treasury's report, page 
274 ; I may here add a brief abstract of a late compilation by Dr. 
Mitchell, of New York, from documents in the treasury department. 



SHEEP. 




Vermont 


450000 


Massachusetts 


299182 


Connecticut 


400000 


Pennsjivania 


1469918 




2719100 



There appears to be ntj return 
from the other states; but 
sheep are abundant io all of 
I hem. 



SALTPETRE. Ibs. 


Virginia 

Kentucky 

Massachusetts 


4S175 

303137 

25600 




375612 


SUGAR. 

Ohio 

Kentucky 
E. Tennessee 


lbs. 

S03;!806 

2471647 

16'J240 


Vermont 


1200000 



6867698 



568 



UNITED STATES. 



COMBS. value 
Connecticut dol. 70000 



Massachusetts 


80624- 


Pennsylvania 


6340 




15696^ 


COPPERAS. 


lbs. 


West Tennessee 


56000 


Vermont 


8000 




61000 


STRAW BONNETS. 


Massachusetts 


559918 


Connecticut 


27100 



Gun-powder mills, 207 — lbs. 

1450000 
Furnaces, forges, &. 530 
Paper-mills, 190 
Cotton mills, 1st August, 1810, 

330— spindles, lOOOOO 
Cotton yarn, 500000 lbs. 
Looms, 330000 
Yards of cloth, 7500000 
Fulling mills, 1630 
Cardinji machines, 1825* 



587018 

The foreign commerce of the United States has suffered severe- 
ly by the restrictions of foreign powers, and it will now be materi- 
ally affected, no doubt, by the present war; but such is the profu- 
sion of provisions and raw materials in the United States, which 
some of the belligerent powers cannot do very well without, that 
there must be a considerable export trade under any circumstances. 
In 1800 the exports amounted to dol. 70971780 

In 1S05 do. domestic produce 42387002 
Foreign do. 53179019 

95566021 

In 1810 domestic do. 42366675 

Foreisrn do. 24391295 

66757970 

And the following table exhibits the last return at the treasury-office. 
UNITED STATES EXPORTS. 

A summarT/ of the value of exports from each state. 



N. Hampshire 


DOMESTIC 

315054 


FOREIGN 

53809 


TOTAL 

368S63 


Vermont 


538306 


32798 


571104 


Massachusetts 


6042645 


5195820 


11235465 


Rhode Island 


944S68 


626556 


1571424 


Connecticut 


994216 


38138 


1032354 


New York 


8747700 


3518515 


12266215 



Carried over J 7582789 9162636 27045425 

* It will be readily pei'ceivcd that this is only a partial account. It is to be regretted 
that a more general return is not made when the census is taken. Materials for a very 
Taluable set of statistical tables might be collected every 10 years, along with the names 
«f the inhabitants. Indeed it would be an easy matter to procure materials lor a na- 
fional geography, which might be published every 10 years, under the auspices of the 
United States. The profits on the sale of such a work would do much more than de- 
fray the expense of a national geographical establishment. It is also to be regretted, I 
think, that the returns from a number of the districts are defective, in so far a* they do 
not state the population in towns and cities. The inhabitants are included in the gene- 
ral return for the respective counties ; but were the particular emimoration in each town 
and city kept separate, it would be more setisfactory 





UNITED 


STATES. 




Brought forward 17582789 


9462636 


27045425 


New Jersey 


1871 




1871 


Pennsylvania 


5694447 


3865670 


9560117 


Delaware 


76945 


116S7 


88632 


Maryland 


4553582 


2280405 


6833987 


*D Columbia 


2060331 


2920 


20632ii 


Virginia 


4798612 


23695 


4822307 


N. Carolina 


793975 


4001 


797976 


S. Carolina 


4650984 


210295 


4861279 


Georgia 


255T225 


1 1641 


25688G6 


fTer. U. S. 


2523282 


149840 

16022790 

1810 


2673122 


Total dol. 45294043 


61316833 


*Georgetown 


61966 


63776 


Alexandria 


1998364 


1110 


1999474 


Total dol 


. 206()S30 


2920 
1632 


2063250 


f Michigan Ter. 


19997 


21629 


ZVf ississippi do. 


1441 




1441 


New Orleans 


2501842 


148208 


2650050 



569 



Total dol. 2523280 149840 2673120 

Treasury Department. Register's Office, Jan. 90, 1812. 
JOSEPH NOURSE, Register. 

By an average of 1802, 3, and 4, the imports were; 

From Britain and colonies dol. 35968890 

Holland, France, Spain, Italy, &c. 25471110 

Northern powers, Prussia, Germany, &c. 7093330 
Portugal, &c. 1106670 

China, and other native powers in Asia, 4868890 
All other countries. 835560 



Of these were re-exported. 
Manufactured goodSj>. 
Coffee, 
Sugar, 
Other articles, 



dol. 75334450 



»7780oo 

7533000 
5777000 
5355000 



28444300 



Leaving for the United States, dol. 46890150 

Of which about 30000000 dollars may be reckoned for clothing, 



The imports from Britain were as above 
The exports to Britain were 

Balance in favour of Britain, 

The exports to other European powers were 
The imports from these powers were 

Balance against these powers, 

72 



25968890 
23100000 

dol. 12868890 

45333340 
336G2230 



dol. 11G71110 



570 UNITED states;. 

In 1805, 6, and 7, the exports to and imports from America, in Bri- 
tain, stood as follows : 

Exports. Imports. 

1805 ^.114^6093 je.4-076803 

1806 12865551 436074-3 

1807 12097912 6531410 



36409586 14968956 

Balance in favour of Britain in these three years, je.21440630. 

In federal currency, 952G6800 dollars. 

The following extract from Blodget's statistical tables of 1809, 
shows the progress of society, and national wealth. 
UnitedStates' territory 1 280000000 Roads and canals, value dol. 1 1500000 
Improved lands 40950000 Fridges do. 5000000 

Dwelling houses 1375000 Shipping tons 1250000 

Colleges 25 Metallic medium dol. 20500000 

Academies 74 Banks, 92 capital 51500000 

Horses 1400000 Bank-notes in circulation 15500000 

Cattle 3660000 Insurance companies' 

capital 18600000 

NATIONAL FUNDS. 

Lots in Washington dol. 1500000 

Western public lands 250000000 

Lousiana lands 400000000 





dol. 651500000 


jS'ational debt 


93119694 


Sinking fund 


'^7597968 




65521726 




-^^^ dol. 



585978274 

The land in this statement is vaUied at i dollar pei* acre. 
The total value of the United States is estimated at 2510,000,000 
dollars. 

The federal government have attended to objects of national im- 
provement with laudable care ; numerous public works have been 
promoted within these last 10 years: the arrangements made in the 
state of Ohio to promote education 9.re a proof of their attention to 
that subject. They are precluded by the constitution from running 
lines of roads or canals through the union, without consent of the 
individual states; but this important subject has met with due atten- 
tion, and an elegant plan was devised for improving the country by 
these means, which, but lor the subsequent difficulties in the foreign 
relations, would probably have been by this time in practical ope- 
ration. As it is probable that this important subject will be resum- 
ed at a future pei'iod, I shall here give an outline of the various 
works contemplated in the secretary of the treasury's luminous report. 



UNITED STATES. 571 

I may first notice that the United States have ah-eady, with the 
assent of the states, agreed to make, at their sole expense, a road 
from Cumberland, on the Potomac, to Brownsville, on the Monon- 
gahela, which is the only work of the kind they have undertaken. 

The followinff tables will exhibit a view of the different canals 
and roads contemplated in the report. 

I. Line of canals along the Atlantic coast. 



Canals. 


Direction. 


2 S 

3 


-5 


Expence 
Dollars. 


Massachusetts 
i\ew Jersey 
Delaware and 

Chesapeak 
Chesapeak and 

Albemarle 


Weymouth to Tauiuoii 
Brunswick to Trenton 

Christiana to Elk 

Elizabeth river to Pasquotank 


26 
23 

22 
22 


260 
100 

US 
40 


1250000 
800000 

750000 
250000 


98 


54-8 


3050000 



These canals are calculated for sea vessels, and, should they 
be completed, will perfect an internal navigation from Boston to 
St. iSIary's, in Georgia, a distance, in a direct line, of more than 
1000 miles. 

II. Improvement of inland navigation. 

Improvement of the navigation of the Susquehannah, 
Potomac, James, and Santec rivers, from the tide-wa- 
ters to the highest practical point, to be effected princi- 
pally by canals round the falls, where practicable, and 
by locks when necessary 1,500,000 

Canal at the falls of Ohio, two miles long, and from 
16 to 27 feet deep, 20 feet wide in bottom, and 68 at 
top, and having three locks 300,000 

Improvement of the navigation of the North river, 
and a canal from thence to lake Champlain, the dis- 
tance from Waterford to Skeensborough being 50 miles 800,000 

Improvement ©f the navigation from Albany, through 
the Mohawk and Oswego rivers, to lake Ontario 2,200,000 

Canal for sloop navigation round the falls of Niagara 1,000,000 



dol. 5,800,000 



57^ UNITED STATED. 

III. 't'URNPIKE ROAi)S. 

A great road extending from Maine to Georgia, in 
the general direction of the sea-coast and main post- 
road, and passing though all the principal sea-ports, in 
length 1600 miles, estimated at 3000 dollars per mile 4,800,000 

Four great artificial roads from the four great western 
rivers, the Allegany, Monongahela, Kanhaway, and 
Tennessee, to the nearest con-espondlng Atlantic ri- 
vers, the Susquehannah or Juniata, the Potomac, James 
river, and either the Santee or Savannah; to unite on 
each river points from which there is a navigation 
downward, estimated at 100 miles each, being 400 miles, 
at 7000 dollars per mile 2,800,000 

A post-road from the Tuscarawa branch of the Mus- 
kingum to Detroit, distance about 200 miles; 

Another from Cincinnatti to St. Louis, by Vincen- 
nes, distance 300 miles; 

And another from Nashville, in Tennessee, at Athens, 
in Georgia, to Natches, distance 500 miles ; 
^ In all 1000 miles, at 200 dollars per mile 200,000 



dol. 7,800,000 



In pointing out these lines of communication, the 
great geographical features of the country were solely 
attended to ; and, to equalize the advantages to all the 
states, a fund was contemplated for local improvements, 
amounting to 3,400,000 

Which, added to the sum estimated for general 
improvements^ 16,600,000 



would make an aggregate of dol. 20,000,000 



It was suggested that an annual appropriation of two millions 
of dollars, would accomplish all these great objects in 10 years. 

In estimating the resources of the nation, with a view to this 
appropriation, it was stated, that by the estimate of a peace es- 



UNITED STATES. 575 

tablishment, computed for the years 1809-1815, the annual re re- 
nue would be dol. 14,000,000 

Arid the expenditure as follows : 
Annual fund for the discharge of the national 
debt 4,600,000 

Experices of government 3,500,000 

Contingencies 400,000 

• 8,500,000 



Leaving a surplus of dol. 5,500,000 

It was calculated that three millions applied annually, during 
10 years, would arm every man in the United States; fill the pub- 
lic arsenals and magazines ; erect every battery and fortification 
which could be manned ; and even, if thought eligible, build a 
iiavy ; leaving a surplus of 2,500,000 dollars per annum. 

Amongst the resources of the nation, exclusively of the lands 
in Louisiana, the general government possesses 100 millions of 
acres of land, north-west of the Ohio, and near 50 millions south 
of the state of Tennessee; and it was believed that it would an- 
swer a good purpose, to apply the proceeds exclusively to promote 
the improvement of the country ; the more, because the contem- 
plated two millions could only be appropriated in time of peace, 
whereas this could be applied permanently, until the most im- 
portant improvements were effected. It was added, " the fund 
created by these improvements would afterward become a per- 
petual fund for still further improvements." 

The report remarks, that " the general utility of artificial roads 
and canals, is at this time so universally admitted, as hardly to 
I'equire any additional proofs. It is sufficiently evident, that, whcn- 
ever the annual expence of transportation on a certain route, iu 
its natural state, exceeds the interest on the capital employed iu 
improving the communication, and the annual expence of ti'ans- 
portation by the improved route, the diilei-ence is an atlditional 
income to the nation. Nor does, in that case, the general result 
vary, although the tolls may not have been fixed at a rate suf- 
ficient to pay the undertakers the interest of the capital laid out. 
They, indeed, when that happens, lose ; but the community is 
benefitted by the undertaking." It JblloxvSy that all public ixorkst 
'juhich are deemed essential^ and "xJiick yet do not hold out a pros-* 
pect of remuneration to individuals, shoidd he executed exclusivelt^ 
hi) the public, and for public account. 



574 UNITED ST\TEJ. 

The report states, " that the price of labour is not considered 
as a formidable obstacle, because, whatever it may be, it equally 
affects the expence of transportation, which is saved by the im- 
provement." The importance of this remark is self-evident, and 
it may be strengthened by the application of the national force, 
to promote national objects, by the employment of the army ia 
time of peace. Every nation must have a hired army, to a cer- 
tain extent, and, by a judicious application of their labour, a great 
many national objects might be promoted ; the condition of the 
men might be improved by an allowance of additional pay for 
their labour, while the employment itself is favourable to virtu- 
ous habits, and is perhaps the best means of uniting the duties of 
the citizen with the soldier. The federal revenue consists mostly 
of a tax on imports and tonnage, with the produce of the sale of 
the new lands. It has been already stated, that the revenue 
for a peace establishment, from 1809 to 1815, was calculated 
at doU 14,000,000 

While the expences of government, includ- 
ing contingencies, amounted only to 3,900,000 
And the annual fund for paying off the 

national debt 4',600,0.00 

8,500,000 



Leaving a surplus for national improvements, of dol. 5,500,000 

But, in consequence of the interruption of the foreign com- 
merce of the United States by the belligerent powers of Europe, 
the revenue has been materially affected j while preparations for 
a state of hostility have increased the expenditure, and exhausted 
the treasury ; so that all the contemplated improvements have, 
for the present, been laid aside ; and hostilies having actually 
taken place between the United States and Great Britain, the 
war will, in all probability, be productive of events that will 
call for an entirely new system of policy, as to the national reve- 
nue. In the metui time, a temporary expedient has been resorted 
to by raising a new loan of 11,000,000 dollars; and 100 per cent, 
has been added to the duties on tonnage and imports.* 

* It has always appeared to me, that a very simple expedient might be resorted 
to, which would meet any deficiency in the national revenue, and supersede the ne- 
cessity of loans and excise, while it would render the country, so far as the finances 
are concerned, completely independetit of foreiga trade. 



UNITED STATES. 575 

The federal currency is very simple. The dollar is established as 
the money unit, proceeding downwards, by the decimal ratio of tens, 

First The duties oh tonnage and imports should be continued ; and to give facility 
to the progress of the rising manufactures, they should be lowered or raised, accordin"- 
to existing circumstances. I doubt the policy, however, «f making them, in any case, 
«Kceed 20 per cent., as that holds out too great temptation to smugglers. These dutie% 
«Ten in time of war, including that on salt, I would estimate at 4,000,000 dollars. 

Second. A national bank might be instituted on the following principles : 

Isl; The capital stock of the bank may be fixed at 30,000,000 dollars, of which tlie 
United States might furnish 20,000,000 dollars, the basis being land, and the individual 
States the other 10,000,000 dollars. 

2d. The bank to be established at Washington, and the directors and other office- 
bearers to be appointed by congress. 

3d. A branch to be established in every state, with consent of the respective state le- 
gislatures who may appoint one-half of the office-bearers, and the quota of the stock, 
for that state, to be applied exclusively to the branch established in it 

4tli, To preserve a uniformity of circulating medium, the whole of the notes to be 
issued at the seat of government, and to be exchanged at all the branches. 

5th. The bank and its branches to be so organized as to facilitate a general exchange 
throughout the United States : e. g. a person at New Orleans wishes to remit to Phi., 
ladelphia ; he could pay the amount into the one branch bank, and get a draft on the 
other : and so on throughout the union. 

As the profits of a well organized bank are very great, I would be iuclined ta valua a 
revenue resulting from a national bank at 2,000,000 dollars. 

Third. The deficiency might be contributed by the several states, according to the 
extent of the population. For example, suppose the sum wanted be 6,688,230, it wotiW 
be apportioned among the several states and territories, nearly as follows : 



New Hampshire, dol. 


214070 


South Carolina 


33474-S 


Vermont 


217.'')95 


Georgia 


209628 


Massachusetts 


697765 


Ohio 


230000 


Rhode Island 


75145 


Kentucky 


37360!> 


Connecticut 


2592:i6 


Tennessee 


213387 


New York 


94-2909 


Louisiana 


5S65H 


New Jersey 


2:i80S4 


Mississippi 


831-21 


Pennsylvania 


800987 


Indiana 


21.2()8 


Delaware 


6584.8 


Illinois 


11970 


Maryland 


32237t 


Michigan 


4704- 


District of Columbia 


20S+5 


Louisiana 


19400 


Virginia 


803423 






North Carolina 


4.83S61- 




6688230 



^ftre may be some objections to this plan that I am not aware of; but if tliey ;ire not 
insuperable, the sulyect well deserves legislative consideration. The public exigencies 
must be provided for, and a mode by which the taxes can be raised equally, and with 
the least po'-,sible trouble and expense, is the best I know of none that would combine 
these advantages so comj)letcly as that alluded to. In a period of peace this plan would 
not require to be operated upon ; and in a period of war the sum would never probably 



576 



UNITED STATES. 



to (limes, cents, and mills; and upwards to eagles of 10 dollars va- 
lue, which is the largest gold coin. In money transactions, the terma 
dollars and cents only are used, and these terms comprehend all the 
others, except the lowest, which is seldom used at all. For example, 
86 eagles, 4 dollars, 5 dimes, and 7 cents are expressed thus : 
dol. 864.57 == eight hundred and sixty-four dollars and fifty seven 
cents. 

In 1792 a law was passed to establish a mint, and the following 
coins were struck. Of Gold ; eagles, half-eagles, quarter-eagles. 
Of Silver ; dollars, half-dollars, quarter-ilollars, dimes, half-dimes. 
Of Copper ; cents, half-cents. ^ 

The gold coins consist of eleven parts of pure gold and one of al- 
loy; the alloy is composed of silver and copper. The silver coins 
consist of 1485 parts of pure silver, and 179 of copper. 

The weight and value of the several coins, and the proportion 
they bear to British sterling money, is exhibited in the following table: 







Weight 


n grains. 


Value in 


Val 


ie in 


British 


Melal. 


Coin. 






dollars 
and cents 




sterl 


ing. 


Pure. 


Standard, 


Guld 


Eagles 


2474- 


270 


dol. 10 00 


£.2 


5 


Q 




Halt do 


123| 


135 


5 00 


I 


2 


a 




Quarter 


6ii 


Qn 


2 50 




11 


3 


Silver. 


Dollars 


371^ 


41(3 


1 00 




4 


6 




Hair do. 


]83| 


208 


50 




2 


3 




Quarter 


9244 


J04 


25 




1 


n 




Dimes 


37^V 


41f 


10 






5t% 




Half do. 


ISt'o 


20|^ 


5 






2^ 


Copper 


Cents 




168 


1 






» 4 

iJo6 




Half do. 




84 


I 






I X 



' The advantage of a currency arranged decimally over any other 
may be illustrated by some examples. 



ADDITION. 

£. s d dollars. 

12 13 10^ = 56.41 

7 19 5i = 35.44 


SUBTR/ 

£. s. d. 

V2 13 loJy 

7 19 5i 


lCTIOK. 

dollars. 
= 56.41 
= 35.44 


80 13 4^ = 91.85 


4 14 4| 


= 20.97 



be so great as to be much felt by any of the states. The advantage of having a plan to 
meet any contingency, always in reserve, is self-evident. 

As to the national lands, the proceeds should, I thinK, in terms of the secretary of the 
treasury's report referred to, be devoted exclusively to promote objects of national utility^ 



UNITED STATES. 577 



MULTIPLICATION BY 15. 


DIVISION 


BY 


15. 


£. 


s. 


d. 




dollars. 


£. s. d. 




dollars. 


12 


13 


lOf 


= 


56.41 


12 13 10^ 


= 15)56.41(3.76 


20 






= 


15 


20 




45 


243 








28205 


253 




114> 


12 








5641 


12 




105 


3046 








846.15 


3046 




91 


i * 










4 




90 ' 


12186 










15)12186(812 




1 


15 










120 12(203 






60930 










- — ^0 16 


ll 




12186 










18 
















15 






4)182790 

— ^ 










36 






! 12)45697 




\ 






32 






ll 20)3808 
t 




1 






4 







190 8 1| 

It would be of great importance if weights and measures could 
also be arranged decimally. 

In such an extensive country, partaking of very different local 
circumstances, the manners and morals of the community must ex- 
hibit a great variety. Generally speaking, every state has its own 
peculiar features : and the subjects alluded to have been noticed in 
the view of the various states and territories. Education and liter- 
ature have also been noticed ; and I may here remark, in general, 
that there are few of the inhabitants of the United States who can- 
not read and write. Knowledge has been very generally diffused 
by books and pamphlets, and more newspapers are circulated than 
in any other country in the world.* 

* Isaiah Thomas, esq. of Worcester, Massachusetts, has lately pub- 
lished a very valuable work, entitled, The History of Printing in A- 
merica, from which I have extracted the following table : 

No. of impres- 
Ko. of sions of each. 

Papers. Published averaged at Total Amount. 

New Hampshire, 12 weekly, at 1000 624000 

M-a»sachusetts, 9 twice a week, IGOO 1497600 

23 weekly, 1150 1375400 



Eh»de Island, 1 twice a week, 800 83200 

6 weekly, 800 249600 

7» 



2873000 

332800 



578 



UMTED STATES. 



A great many public libraries have been established ; and there 
are numerous institutions for the encouragement of science and 
literature. 



Connecticut, 


11 


weekly, 


1150 




657800 


Vermont, 


14. 


weekly, 


800 




582400 


New York, 


7 


daily. 


600 


1310400 






9 


twice a week. 


800 


748800 






50 


weekly. 


800 


2080000 


4139200 


New Jersey, 


8 


weekly. 


800 




332800 


Pennsylvania, 


9 


daily, 


625 


1755000 






1 


three times, 


800 


124800 






3 


twice a week. 


800 


249600 






58 


weekl}'^, 


800 


2412800 


—4542200 


Delaware 


2 


twice a week. 


800 




166400 


Maryland 


5 


daily 


600 


936000 






5 


three times, 


600 


468000 






1 


twice a week. 


800 


83200 






10 


weekly, 


800 


416000 


1903200 


District of Cokvmbi 


a, 1 


daily. 


600 


1S7200 






S 


three times, 


800 


374400 






1 


twice a week. 


800 


83200 






1 


weekly, 


800 


41600 


— - 686400 


Virginia^ 


1 


three times, 


800 


1248(X) 






6 


twice a week, 


800 


499200 






16 


weekly, 


800 


665600 


1289600 

416000 


North Carolina, 


10 


weekly, 


800 




South Carolina, 


3 


daily. 


500 


468000 






2 


twice a week, 


800 


166400 






5 


weekly. 


800 


208000 


842400 


Georgia, 


1 


three times. 


800 


124800 






2 


twice a week. 


800 


166400 






10 


weekly, 


800 


416000 


707200 


Kentucky, 


17 


weekly, 


700 




618800 


Ohio, 


14. 


weekly, 


650 




473200 


Tennessee 


6 


weekly, 


550 




171600 


Indiana Territory, 


1 


weekly, 


300 




15600 


^Mississipi Territory 


, 4 


weekly. 


400 




83200 


Territory of Oileans, 2 


daily, 


450 


280800 






4. 


three times, 


500 


312000 






2 


twice a week, 


500 


104000 






2 


weeJkly, 


500 


52000 


*74.ftsnn 


Louisiana, 


1 

359 


weekly, 


SOO 




15600 

22222200 



UNITED STATES. 579 

The original bond of union among the states was for mutual pro- 
tection and defence; but it was vague and undefined until the 9th 

By this tablt, it appears that the number of newspapers amounts to 22,222,200 ; 
and Mr, Tliomas says it may be Tiewed as considerably under the real nymljer. The 
total amount, he thinks, may, without exaggeration, be estimated at twenty-two mil- 
lions, five bundled thousand. In Britain and Ireland the newspaper establishments 
amount to 228 ; and the whole of the public journals issued annually fiom the various 
presses are computed at twenty millions five hundi-ed thousand: 

I had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Thomas last spring, when he siiowed me the first 
book printed in America, in the year 1640. It is a psalm-book of 500 pages crown 
octavo, bound in vellum, and is attended by this very singular circumstance, that on 
the left hand page throughout the book the word PsjJm is spelled as it should be ; at 
£he head of every right hand page it is spelled " Psalme." 

- I was shown also the first newspaper printed in America. It is entitled " Tbe Bos- 
ten Newsletter, from Monday, April 17th, to Monday, April 24th, 1704, published 
by authority^" On looking into it, the first aiticle I saw had reference to the land of 
my nativity, and I made the following extract from it in " my pocket-book." 
" From the London Flying Post, from December 2d to 4th, 1703. 
*' Letters from Scotland hring us the copy of a sheet lately printed there, intitled, a 
Seasonable Alarm for Scotland, in a letter from a clergyman in the city to his friend 
in the country, concerning the present danger of tha king4om, and ©f the protestant 
religion." The letter takes notice that papists swarm in the nation, that they traffic 
more avowedly than formerly, and that of late many scores of priests and jesuite had 
come thither from France, and had gone to the highlands, and other places in tbe 
country ; and the ministers of the north had given long lists of them to the committee 
t( the general assembly, to be laid before the privy council, &c. 

The state of literature in a country may be partly inferred from the quaatity of p^- 
per manufactured. Mr, Thomas says, " from the information I hare -collected, it ap- 
pears that the mills for manufacturiug paper are as follows : — 

New Hampshire 
Massachusetts 
Rhode Island 
Connecticut 
Vermont 
New York 
Delaware 
Maryland 

Total 185 

From Dr. Mitchell's report, the numbers appeared ro be 190. 

The paper manufactiu-ed annually at these mills is estimated as fellows: 

tons. 
For newspapers 500 

For books 630 

For writing 650 

For wrapping 800 

2580 



7 


Virginia 


4 


■38 


South Carolina 


I 


4 


Kentucky- 


6 


17 


Tennessee 


4 


9 


Pennsylvania about 


60 


12 


In all the other states and 




4 


territories 


16 


s 







reams. 


value. 


50,000 


dul. 150,000 


70,000 


245,000 


111,000 


533,000 


100,000 


83,000 


•53 LOCO 


cU. 811,000 



580 UNITED STATES. 

July, 1778, when " Articles of Confederation and Perpetual Union" 
were agreed upon by New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Is- 
land, Connecticut, NcwYork, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, 
Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. On the 
1st March 1781, Maryland acceded by her representatives in con- 
gress ; and the articles were finally ratified. These articles conti- 
nued tft regulate the proceedings of the general government until the 
year 1787, when a new constitution was adopted, of which the fol- 
lowing are the outlines. 

1st. The legislative power is vested in a congress of the United 
StatCL?, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. 

The members of the house of representatives are chosen every 
second year by the people of the several states ; and the electors in 
each state must have the qualifications requisite for the electors of 
the most numerous branch of the state legislature. A representa- 
tive must be 25 years of age, and have been 7 years a citizen of the 
United States ; and be an inhabitant of that state for which he shall 
be chosen. The representatives will hereafter be chosen in tlie se- 
veral states in the proportion of one for every 35,000, in which e- 
numeration the Indians and two-fifths of the people of colour are not 
included. 

The senate is composed of two members from each state, chosen 
for six years by the respective state legislatures ; and the seats of 
one-third are vacated every two years. A senator must be 30 years 
of age, and have been 9 years a citizen of the United States, and at 
the time of his election an inhabitant of the state for which he is 
chosen. The vice-president of the United States is president of the 
senate ; but has no vote unless they are equally divided. 

Congress must assemble at least once every year. Their meet- 
ings shall be on the first Monday in December, unless they shall by 
law appoint a different day. 

No law can be passed without the concurrence of both houses. 
When that is obtained, it is presented to the president, who, if he 
approves, signs it ; if not, he returns it with his objections, for the 
ro-consideratioH of congress, and it cannot in that case become a 
law without tiie concurrence of two-thirds of the members. The 
president must return it within 10 days, otherwise it becomes a law 
without his approbation. 
The congress have power — 
I, To lay and collect taxes, duties, injposts, and excises, to pay 



, UNITED STATES. 581 

tlie debts, and provide for the common defence and general welfare 
of the United States ; but all duties, imposts and excises, shall be 
uniform throughout the United States. 

II. To borrow money on the credit of the United States. 

III. To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the 
several states, and with the Indian tribes. 

IV. To establish an uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform 
laws on the subject of bankruptcies, throughout the United States, 

V. To coin money ; to regulate the value thereof, and of foreign 
coin; and fix the standard of weights and measures. 

VI. To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the se- 
curities and current coin of the United States. 

VII. To establish post-offices and post- roads. 

VIII. To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by 
securing for limited times, to authors and inventors, the exclu- 
sive Ti<rht to their resoective writinos and discoveries. 

O to 

IX. To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court. 

X. To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on 
the high seas, and offences against the law of nations. 

XI. To declare war ; grant letters of marque and reprisal ; and 
make rules concerning captures on land and water. 

XII. To raise and support armies. But no appropriation of 
' money for that use shall be for a longer term than two years. 

XIII. To provide and maintain a navy. 

XIV. To make rules for the government and regulation of 
the land and naval forces. 

XV. To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the 
laws of the union, suppress insurrections, and repel invasions. 

XVI. To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining the 
militia, and for governing such part of them as may be employed 
in the service of the United States; reserving to the slates re- 
spectively the appointment of the officers, and the authority of 
training the militia according to the discipline prescribed by con- 
gress. 

XVII. To exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whatso- 
ever, over such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, 
by cession of particular states, and the acceptance of congress^ 
become the seat of government of the United States; and to ex- 
ercise like authority over all places purchased by the consent of 
the legislature of the state in which the same shall be, for the 



582 UNITED STATES. 

erection of forts, magazines, arsenals, dock-yards, and other need- 
ful buildings ; and 

XVI 1 1. To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper 
for carrying into execution the foregoing powers, and all other 
powers vested by this constitution in the government of the United 
States, or any department or officer thereof. 

The migration or importation of such persons, as any of the 
states now existing shall think proper to admit, shall not be pro- 
hibited by the congress, prior to the year one thousand eight 
hundred and eight; but a tax may be imposed on such importa- 
tion, not exceeding ten dollars for each person. 

The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be suspends 
ed unless when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the public safety 
may require it. 

No bill of attainder or ex post facto law shall be passed. 

No capitation or other direct tax shall be laid, unless in propor- 
tion to the census or enumeration herein before directed to be taken. 

No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any state. 
No preference shall be given, by any regulation of commerce or 
revenue, to the ports of one state, over those of another; nor 
shall vessels boimd to or from one state, be obliged to enter, clear, 
or paj' duties in another. 

No money shall be drawn from the treasury, but in consequence 
cf appropriations made by law ; and a regular statement and ac- 
count of the receipts and expenditures of all public money shall 
be published from time to time. 

No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States : and 
no person, holding any office of profit or trust under them, shall, 
without the consent of congress, accept of any present, emolu- 
ments, office, or title, of any kind whatever, from any king, prince, 
or foreign state. 

No state shall enter into any treaty, alliance, or confederation ; 
grant letters of marque and reprisal; coin money; emit bills of 
credit ; make any thing but gold and silver coin a tender in pay- 
ment of debt ; pass any bill of attainder, ex post facto law, or law 
imjiairing the obligation of contracts, or grant any title of nobility. 

No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay any im- 
posts or duties on imports or exports, except what may be abso- 
lutely necessary for executing its inspection laws ; and the net 
produce of all duties and imposts laid by any state on imports or 



UNITED STATES. 583 

exports, shall be for the use of the treasury of the United States; 
and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and control of 
congress. No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay 
any duty on tonnage, keep troops, or ships of war, in time 
of peace, enter into any agreement or compact with another state, 
or with a foreign power, or engage in war, unless actually invad- 
ed, or in such imminent danger as will not admit of delay. 

The executive power is vested in a president, who is elected 
for four years, as follows : Each state appoints, in such a manner 
as the legislature may direct, a number of electors equal to the 
whole number of senators and representatives, which that state 
sends to congress. But no senator or representative, or person 
holding any office of trust or profit under the United States, can 
be an elector. The electors meet in their respective states, and 
vote by ballot for president and vice president, one of whom, at 
least, shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves. 
The list of the votes are sent to the seat of government, directed 
to the president of the senate; who, in presence of the senate anl 
house of representatives, opens the certificates, and the votes arc 
counted. The person having the greatest number of voles for 
president is declared to be elected to that office, provided he have 
the votes of a majority of all the electors appointed. If not, then 
from the persons having the greatest number of votes not exceed- 
ing three, the house of representatives choose the president by 
ballot. No person except a natural-born citizen, or a citizen of 
the United States at the time of the adoption of this constitution, 
shall be eligible to the office of president; and he must be 35 
years of age, and have resided 14 years within the United States-. 

The president shall be commander in chief of the army and navy 
of the United States, and of the militia of the several states, when 
called into the actual service of the United States. He may re- 
quire the opinion, in writing, of the principal officers in each ot 
the executive departments, upon any subject relating to the duties 
of their respective offices : and he shall have power to grant re- 
prieves and pardons, for offences against the United States, ex- 
cept in cases of impeachment. 

He shall have power, by and with the advice and consent of 
the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators 
present concur : and he shall nominate, and, by and with the ad- 
vice and consent of the senate, shall appoint ambassadors, other 



584 UNITED STATES. 

public ministers, and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and 
all other officers of the United States, whose appointments are 
not otherwise provided for, and which shall be established by 
law. But the congress may, by law, vest the appointment of 
such inferior officers as they think proper, in the president alone, 
in the courts ot law, or in the heads of departments. 

The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that may 
happen during the recess of the senate, by granting commissions, 
which shall expire at the end of their next session. 

He shall, from time to time, give to the congress information of 
the state of the union ; and recommend to their consideration such 
measures as he shall judge necessary and expedient. He may, on 
extraordinary occasions, convene both houses or either of them; 
and, in case of disagreement between them, with respect to the 
time of adjournment, he may adjourn them to such time as he 
shall think proper. He shall receive ambassadors and other pub- 
lic ministers. He shall take care that the laws be faithfully ex- 
ecuted ; and shall commision all the officers of the United States. 

The judicial power of the United States shall be vested in one 
supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the congress may 
from time to time ordain and establish. The judges, bodi of 
the supreme and inferior courts, shall hola their offices during 
good behaviour ; and shall, at stated times, receive for their ser- 
vices a compensation, which shall not be diminished during their 
continuance in office. 

The judicial power shall extend to ail cases, in law and equity, 
arising under this constitution, the laws of the United States, and 
treaties made, or whicli shall be made under their authority ; to 
all casi-'i affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and con- 
suls ; to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; to 
controversies to which the Ignited States shall be a party, to con- 
troversies bet^veen two or more states, between a state and citizens 
of anotlier state, between citizens of diffi^rent states, between citi- 
zens of the same state claimiiig lands under grants of different 
states, and between a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign 
states, citizens, or subjects. 

In all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and 
consuls, and those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme 
court shall have original jurisdiction. In all the other ca«es be- 
ftH-e mentioned, the supreme court shall have appellate jurisdic 



UNITED STATES. 585 

tioii, both as to law and fact, with such exceptions, and under 
sftch regulations, as the congress shall make. 

The trial of all crimes, except in cases of impeachment, shall 
he by jury, and such trial shall be held in the state where the 
Sftid crimes shall have been committed ; but when not committed 
within any state, the trial shall be at such place or places as the 
congress may by law have directed. 

Full faith and credit shall be given in each state to the public 
;icts, records, and judicial proceedings of every other state. And 
the congress may, by penal laws, prescribe the manner in which 
l' such acts, records, and proceedings shall be proved, and the effect 
I thereof. 

New states may be admitted by the congress into this union : 
! but no new state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction 
!; of any other state — nor any state be formed by the junction of 
I two or more states — without the consent of the legislatures of the 
," states concerned, as well as of the congress. 

The congress shall have power to dispose of, and make all need- 

)' fill rules and regulations respecting the territory or other proper- 

j ty belonging to the United States : and nothing in this constitu- 

I J^oJi shall be so construed, as to prejudice any claims of the United 

States, or of any particular state. 

The United States shall guarantee to every state in this union a 
I republican form of government ; and shall protect each of them 
against invasion, and on application of the legislature, or of the 
executive (when the legislature cannot be convened,) against do- 
mestic violence. 

The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the 
members of the several state legislatures, and all executive and 
judicial officers, both of the United States and of the several 
states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation to su}>port this con- 
^ stitution ; but no religious test shall ever be required as a qualifi- 
cation to any office or public trust under the United States. 

I cannot close the review of this important country, without 
expressing sentiments of adoration of the Supreme Being, and of 
gratitude for his bounty to-man ; which is peculiarly visible in 
this country, whether we view its inhabitants in their origin, their 
progress, or their present state; or the country as being the asy- 
lum of the human race. 

7i 



586 



UMTED STATES. 



In contemplating this delightful subject, the mind is naturally 
led back to the British islands, as that country from which the 
inhabitants of this have principally sprung. The island of Bri- 
tain, at a period when mental blackness and darkness had nearly 
overshadowed the whole earth, became the asylum of oppressed 
freedom; and though she had to struggle most violently with her 
foes even there, yet truth prevailed. The art of printing w^as dis- 
covered, knowledge was promulgated ; and liberty, civil and re- 
ligious, was at last secured to a portion of the human race. Still, 
Irowevei', the struggle Was hard between the friends of freedonr 
end their foea, till the discovery of America secured, for ever, an 
asylum for the oppressed, and a refuge against the oppressor. It 
emphatically said to tyranny and tyrants, ^' Hither you may come, 
but no further. Here shall your proud waves be staid." 

The inhabitants of the United States having the seeds of free- 
dom sown among them, have preserved them against all attacks, 
external and internal ; and they may now be viewed as having 
taken such root in the habits and manners of the mass of the peo- 
ple, that they will probably endure while the world lasts. The 
fruits are, unrestrained freedom of the worship of the Supreme 
Being, of speech, and of the press j with security of enjoying 
the fruits of their own industry. Under a government enjoying 
all these blessings, society must rapidly improve in agriculture, 
manufactures, commerce, the arts and sciences, and in literature 
and knowledge. 
- The state of agriculture appears to great advantage in the course 
of this work, and the subject may be summed up by stating a fact 
imknown in many of the old countries. Almost every farmer is a 
freeholder, and the continuance of that incalculable advantage is 
secuied by the plan adopted by the general government for the 
disposal of the public lands. The general government possesses 
in trust for the people of the United States, about 100 millions of 
acres of land, fit for cultivation, north of the Ohio, and 50 mil- 
lions south of the Tennessee. If to this be added the right of 
purchasing from the Indians, the amount may be doubled; to 
which may be added 400 millions of acres in Louisiana, in all 700 
millions of acres, worth more than 1000 millions of dollars. These 
lands are sold to actual settlers, at the low price of 1 dollar 64f 
cents, cash, or two dollars per acre, with 4- years to pay it. The 
purchaser becomes a freeholder, and bis title is indisputable ; 



UNITED STATES. 587 

while by the plan adopted the country is improved, and the go- 
vernment draws a great revenue from that source. 

Manufactures have increased so rapidly during the struggle for 
commercial rights, that they have become an object of solicitude 
with the government ; and will unquestionably meet with every 
possible encouragement.* 

Commerce, so necessary as an auxiliary to agriculture and ma- 
nufactures, now that peace is happily restored with Great Britain, 
will resume its wonted channels, and, it is hoped, will hereafter 
be uninterrupted by the unjust edicts of foreign countries; and 
that those who prosecute it will recieve an ample reward. 

The mechanic arts, while they go hand in hand with agricul- 
ture, manufactures, and commerce, so they partake of their for- 
tune. In the interior of the country they are in a most flourish- 
ing state. In cities they have been deprived of the aid of active 
commerce; but in its place they have received great support from 
the rapid increase of manufactures. Restored by the peace to 
their natural level, they will unquestionably flourish ; while those 
engaged in them, under the influence of wholesome laws, enacted 
by legislators chosen by themselves, will be prosperous and hap[)y 

Literature and science are so essential to society, that life itseli 
without their aid would be but a poor gift. As they have flourished 
amid the pressure of war, and din of arms, we may calculate 
that they will more eminently flourish during a peace ; and that 
the United States, as they are remarkably distinguished for fer- 
tiUty and plenty, with a greater degree of freedom than ever fell 

• On tliis subject we are naturally led to take notice of the remarkable aiicumstance 
that at the time when it became necesbary for America to manufacture the most ma- 
terial articles of clothing within herself, the merino sheep, heretofore confined to 
Spain, should have been scattered abroad througli the world ; and cotton hare be ■ 
come so plenty as to be almost a drug in tlie European market ; the consequence was 
I a profusion of cotton and wool in America, to an extent that 20 years ago would have 

ibeen deemed incredible. The annual amount of the American manufactures is esti- 
mated at upwards of 220 millions of dollars ; being upwoids of six times tlie amount 
of the greatest importation for home consumption. 

In a message of congress, Feb, £0, 1815, the president observe;, " There is no 
subject that can enter with greater force and merit into the deliberations of congress, 
than a consideration of the means to preserve and promote the manufactures which 
liare sprung into existence, and attained an unparalleled maturity throughout the 
United States, during the period of the Euiopean wars. This source of independ- 
ence and national wealth, I anxiously recommend to tlie prompt and constant jjuar- 
diansliip of congrest. 



586 UNITED STATES. 

to the lot o{ a nation; so they may be distinguished for all the 
blessings that knowledge, science, and an enlightened religion can 
bestow. 

The peculiar advantages of the inhaliitants of this country have 
been elegantly described by the pen of a distinguished writer. 
*' Kindly separated by nature and a wide ocean from the exter- 
minating havoc of one quarter of the globe; too high-minded to 
endure the degradations of the others ; possessing a chosen coun- 
try, with room for their descendants, to the thousandth and thou- 
sandth generation — entertaining a due sense of their equal rights to 
the use of their own faculties — to the acquisitions of their industry 
— to honour and confidence from their fellow citizens, resulting 
not from birth but good conduct — enlightened by a benign religion, 
professed, indeed, and practised in various forms, yet all of them 
inculcating lionesty, temperance, and the love of man :" the heart 
that feels these advantages must dilate with joy, and heave with 
gratitude to the supreme Giver. 

The vast quantity of fine lands to the west invites and encour- 
a^res an emigration from the east, and has a tendency to bind these 
two sections together by the indissoluble ties of kindred affection ; 
the manufacturing industry of the north is aided and encouraged 
by the surplus raw materitds and demand for manufactures in the 
south, and both, feeling the convenience of the exchange, are 
bound together by the ties of mutual interest ; the progress of 
manufactures and of commerce has a tendency to cement the 
Union every where, and the genius of Washington hovers over it, 
*' indignantly frowning upon the first dawning of every attempt 
to alienate any portion of the community from the rest, or to en- 
feeble the sacred ties which link together the various parts;" 
while the whole is under the supcrintcndance of " an over-ruling 
Providence, which, by its disjiensations, proves that it delights in 
the happiness of man here, and in his greater happiness hereafter." 



POSTSCRIPT. 

It is now upwards of two years since these travels issued from the 
press, and every eircumsiance relative to the geography of the coun- 
try, that hps con-.e undt-r tl.fc author's ubservation, Las tended to 
streiij^'ohf'.i i~.is opinion, .;:, x.o t; c rising greatnessof the Western world; 
and puiticularly of that miportant section of it, where he has fixed his 



UNITED STATES-. 589 

ifesidence, The United States. They have not only maintained Si 
struggle, single handed, against the greatest military power in the 
world ; but they have in many hard-fought contests earned a never- 
dying renown in arms, the best pledge^f security from foreign aggres- 
sion, and the best passport to national respect. During the contest, 
too, the progress of society has hardly been in a single instance arrest- 
ed. Agriculture, manufactures, and the arts, have moved on with 
uninterrupted sway, and many valuable brandies have, indeed, been 
accelerated by the war. 

The author, having deyoted his whole time to the geography of the 
country, has had an opportunity of noticing all the leading facts rela- 
tive to the progress of society as they occurred, and the developemen« 
of a few circumstances will not be judged misplaced, to illustrate a 
•ubject become habitually dear to him — the rapid career of the 

COUNTRY TO UNPARALLELED GREATNESS. 

A careful perusal of the foregoing pages of this volume will show, 
in a particular manner, the extent and importance of the country be- 
yond the mountains : but at the time it was published, the author had 
no adequate conception of the extent of that portion of the country 
tvhich lies beyond the Mississippi, nor of the unparalleled magnitude of 
that river and its branches. Facts recently promulgated have enabled, 
him to construct a new and interesting map of the c untry, which 
shows the extremities of the whole waters flowing into the Mississippi, 
of which the view was to him perfectly astonishing ; and a short ac» 
count of it will probably be gratifying to the reader. 

The eastern extremity of this immense river, is the Allegany river,' 
which rises in Pennsylvania, 180 miles from Philadelphia, in long. 0* 
50' west from Washington. 

The western extremity is a branch of the Missouri, in west long. 3r>* 
15', within 450 miles of the Pacific Ocean. 

The distance between these two extremities, in a direct line, is 1680 
mile?. 

The northern extremity is a branch of the Missouri, in 50° 42' north 
latitude, 550 miles west by north of the Lake of the Woods. 

The southern extremity is the south pass into the Gulf of Mexico, 
in north lat. 29° 0' ; 90 miles in a direct line below New Orleans. 

The distance between these two extremities, in a direct line, i^ 
1650 miles. 

The river and its branches spread over nearly 1,346,289 square 
miles, viz. 

Missouri territory,thewhole,985250 North Carolina, -y^tli, 1 1 10 

North-West territory, ^, 534-15 South Carolina, -rf^tb, 152 

Illinois territory, the \^ hole, 52000 Georgia, -j%th, 2000 

Indiana Territory, 4§ths, 37050 Kentucky, the whole, 40110 

Ohio, f^ths, 35t)88 Tennessee, the whole, 43200 

Pennsylvania, .fd, 1G493 Missouri territory, -fd, SliGO 

New York, -r;i^th, 521 Louisiana,^, 205OO 

Marjrland, T^th, 140 " 

Virginia, Aths, 28200 Square miles, 134(328{) 

Being 861,624,960 acres! capable 'of supporting 500 millions ofha- 
rifin beings ! ! 

"I'he whole territory of the United States is 1205,635,840 acres, ot 
nhich the ^Iississippi waters nearly |ths ! 



590 



UNITED STATES. 



The country watered by the Mississippi is 28 times larger than all 
England. 

Jt is ] 1 times larger than Great Britain and IrelantL 

It is 172 times larger than Massachusetts. 

It is 40 times as large as the whole New England states, exclusive 
of Maine. 

It is 20 times as large as the whole New England states, including 
Maine. 

What a field for contemplation ! Every lover of the human race, who 
takes delight in their progessive improvement, must rejoice in the 
review of this country, containing room for their rhultiplying and needy 
offspring, to a period remote beyond our utmost calculations ; and will 
pronounce a blessing upon the heads of those patriots, who matured a 
system for its settlement, calculated, by making every man a freeholder, 
to baffle all the petty efforts of tyrant man to shackle his fellows in this 
quarter of the globe. 

While the citizens of the United States have cause to rejoice in the 
extent of their country, and the achievements of its brave defenders ; 
they have also the satisfaction to know that it has rapidly increased in 
population and national wealth, even during the war. The census of 
the state of New York, just published, proves incontestibly this fact ; 
the result of which, with a few observations, shall close the subject. 

CENSUS OF NEW- YORK. 



COUKinrS POPULATION'. 

Albany 33885 


COUNTIES. 

Onondago 


TO?VtXTtOH. 

SOSOi 


Allegany 


3833 


Ontario 




56892 


Broome(Owegonotreturned)8-i82 


Orange 




31284 


Cayuga 


37318 


*Otsego 




405b7 


Chatauque 


4239 


*Putnam 




9353 


Chenango, (Eastern, Green, 


Queens 




19269 


and Pharsalia not ret.) 


20219 


Rensselaer 




36833 


Clinton 


7764 


Richmond 




5502 


Columbia 


33979 


Rockland 




7817 


Cortland 


lor>93 


Saratoga 




31139 


Delaware, (Franklin not r. 


) 19239 


Schenectady 




10896 


Duchess 


43707 


Schoharie 




18323 


Essex, (Jay and Seroon not 




Seneca 




21401 


returned) 


7 807 


St. Lawrence, (Os 


.wcgat- 




Franklin 


25(38 


chie, Rossie, and Russell, 




Genessee 


23973 


not returned) 




7095 


Greene 


20200 


Steuben 




11121 


Herkimer 


20837 


Suffolk 




21368 


Jefferson 


18564 


Sullivan 




6233 


Kings 


7655 


Tioga 




10433 


Lewis 


G848 


Ulster 




26328 


Madison 


2627 « 


* Warren 




7838 


Montgomery 


40030 


Washington 




36339 


New York 

Niagara (not returned.) 


95519 


West Chester 




26367 






" 




Oneida, ( Florence not ret. 


)44833 




1,014,632 



* These counties have been laid out since 1810. 



UNITED STATES. 591 

Tlie aggregate population, in 1810, of the county and towns from 
tirhich the returns have not been received (except Easton and Rossie) 
was 1 394-5 ; so that the total population of the state may be consider- 
ed to be about one million and thirty thousand souls. 

By contrasting thisjwith the census of 1810, in page .^ieO of this 
work, it will be seen, that in the course of 4 years 80,780 inhabitants 
have been added to the state of New York ; and it is a singular fact, 
that the increase has been greatest in some of those com ties imme- 
diately bordering on the seat of war. Jefferson, which includes Sac- 
ket's Harbour, has increased 3424-. Chataugue, on Lake Erie, has 
increased 1878 ; and Genessee, on Lake Ontario, has increased 11,385; 
being nearly double its population in 1810. 

A country possessing faculties like this is invulnerable, and its liber- 
ties fixed on a rock, not to be overturned by human power. The ra- 
pid growth of societ)% under such circumstances, is certain ; and an 
attempt to repress it would be equally futile with an attempt to repress 
the waveg of the ocean. 



592 



TABLE OF DISTANCES, S^Cb 



Table of distances. State of the Weather, and Expences, in a 
Journey through the Western Conutry. 



Date. 



Situation. 



Thermo, 



t 



Wind at 
Noon. 



Almoi- 

phere at 

Noon. 



Expencet. 



Items. 



D. C 



ISll 
Aug. YJNew York 

SiBordenton 
^IPliiladelphia 



lOElizabethtown 

11 Chambersburg 

1 2 M'ConneUtown 
13| Bedford 
MSonrerset 
IslOreensburg 
16 Pittsburg 
17 
18 
19 
20 

21 Harmony 
22 

25 1 Pittsburg 
24!Ohio river 
25 Georgetown 
'i6|SteubenviUe 
27 Wheeling 
ss'ohio river 
29| Do. 
SOiMarietta 
31, 

Sept. ij 

SiOb'o river 
SJ To. 
4|Le:art's fails 
5 Galliopolis 
ephio river. 

7 Do. 

8 Alexandria 
ftiNlancbester 

lOIOhio river 
11 jCincianati 
13 
13 



66 74 
63 63 



8065 

62i73 

22,69 

S4'50 

S8'56 

S670 

5170 

72 

76 

74 

78 

25,78 

170 

25.63 

1254 

20 56 

31 '60 

23 60 



8oS.W. 

72 N. W. 
65S.E. 



71 Calm 

76N. 

65 N.W. 
70J66 W. 
79 69S.W. 
78,78 S. 

79 76 Do. 

80 74 Do. 
91 84 Calm. 
91^83 Do. 
91 [82 Do. 
82 72 Do. 
76'76N.W. 
72'64Do. 
80*64 Do. 
76'66Calm 
80^63 N. E. 
84^70 Calm 



28 64 J82,70Do 




86'68 S. W. 
4;g6 N. W. 
84't)8 Do. 
84j72E. 
84|70Do. 
80J7()S W. 
85 74 Do. 
,78 66W. 
72»;2|Do. 
|75 b'O Do. 



Cloudy 

Clear 
Cloudy 



Foggy 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

, Cloudy 

Shower 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Clear 
|C!oudy 

Do. 

Do. 

Clear 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Do. 

Rain 

Cloudy 

'Do. 



Fare to Philadel 

phia by steam-boat 4 50 

Board, &c. 

Fare to Pittsburg 

Luggage 

Board, jcc. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
"I 

See the 33d 

Horse hire 
Bill at Harmony 
Expences by way 
Bill at Pittsburg 



249 

20| 

9 50 
I 156 

I ^p 
1 6 

1 9 

2 7 
137 

157 



1 



Charges to Ma- 
rietta 



Bill at Marietta 



.Charges to Cin- 
• cinnati 



\- 



Bill Cincinnati 



74 



31 



G94 



250 

7535 



TABLE OiF DISTAMrgS, &;€. 



593 









Thermo 




Atmo- 
sphere 


Expenees. 




Date. 


Situation. 


4> 


d 






Wind 
at 












a 


.s 


c 


K 


Noon. 


at 


Items. 


D. 


C 








a 


c 


g 




Noon. 












'B 


3 


"Z 


3 










;3* 


1811. 


Forward 


988 








1 


Forward 


75 


Sept. 14 


Ohio river 


9 


45 


70 


56 


W. 


Clear 








15 


Do. 


S3'46 


7G 


62 


s. 


Cloudy 
Clear 


-J 






16 


Do. 


3262 


81 


76 


Do. 


(charges to Lou- 
f isville 






17 


West Port 


30,62 


77 


68 


Do; 


Do. 


6 




18 


Ohio River 


35|65 


77 


68 


S. W. 


Cloudy 


1 






19 
20 


Louiiville 


42 


68 
i)8 


78 
72 


T2 
64 


Calm 
Do, 


Do. 

Rain 


j Stabling* 


2 




21 
22 






60 
62 


71 

75 


60 
60 


N. E. 
E. 


Cloudy 
Do. 


f Shoeing 
Bill at Louisville 


5 


81 
50 


25 


Shelbyville 


3260 


78 


68 


Do. 


Clear Board 


1 


50 


24 


Frankfort 


19,68 


79 


78 


S.W. 


Cloudy Do. 


269 


25 


Lexington 


26i74 


75 


64 


N.W. 


JRain 


1 






26 






62 


68 


62 


N. E. 


Iciear 


/ 






S7 






61 


68 


63 


8. E. 


Do. 


vBill Lexington 


9 


87 


28 






60 


64 


GOE. 


Cloudy 


( 






29 






50 


58 


52N. 


Clear 


) 






30 


Paris 


2246 


64 


46 W. 


Do. Board, &c. 


2 




Oct. 1 


Blue Lick 


21 {44 


76 


60 S. E. 


Do, 


Do. 




12 


2 


Washington 


2056 


78 


60,S. 


Do. 


Do. 




:o 


3 


West Union 


2X55 

1 


SO 


56 Do. 


Do. 


Ferry Ohio 
Board, &c. 


1 


25 


4 


Bainbridge 


38;48 


76 


54 Do. 


Do. 


Do. 




75 


/; 


Chillicothe 


1952t 


76 


54Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


1 


50 


6 




■ H^ 


70 


52 N. E. 


Do. Do, 


2 


75 


7 


New Lancaster 


3454 


76 


58 S. 


Cloudy Toll 

Board, &c. 


1 


6 
50 


8 


Zanesville 


3664 


70 


60 Do. 


Do. iDo. 




88 


9 






62 


72 


76'Do. 


Do. 


-) 






10 






62 


7R 


74Do. 


Do, 


IBill Zanesville 


8 


43 


11 






68 


76 


71 Do. 


Do, 


vFerry 




12 


12 






67 


76 


50 S. W. 


Rain 


( Ostler 




20 


13 






58 


78 


68 Do. 


Cloudy J 






14 


Coshocton 


50 48 


54 


50 N. E. 


Do. Board, &c. 


1 


69 


15 


N. Philadelphia 


36 48 


70 


58 S. 


Do. Do. 


1 


15 


16 


Canton 


24'46 


50 


.■^6 8. W. 


Do. Do. 


) 


30 


17 


Springfield 


1*1 30 


58 


54|,v. W. 


Clear Do. 




9S 


18 


'['inker's Creek 


30,30 


68 


P6 S. 


Do. Do. 




50 


19 
20 


Cleveland 


12 


54 
36 


70 
34 


48 Do. 
34 N. W. 


?\Z^^ I »'" t:leveland 


4 




21 






30 


48 


35 variab. 


Clear Board, &c. 




50 


22 


Grand river 


30 


82 


54 


17S. E. 


Do. Do. 


1 


37 


23 


Ashtabula river 


30 


45 


48 


33 N. W. 
1 


Cloudy Do. 


1 


M 




1 


1667 


1 


1 


1 


137 


1: 



• Here I purchased a horse for 25 dollars ; but as ii was afterwards sold about 
the same price, it is not included in the account. 

f Here I broke my thermometer, and could notprocure another ; in consequence 
of which I was obliged to judge of the weather by rty feelings ; but I presume the 



account was nearly correct. 



7.5 



594. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES, %C. 









Therrrio 






Expences. 


'1 


Date. 


Situation. 


a 




Wind 
at noon 


Atmo- 
sphere 
at 


1 


3J 




S 












Q 


c 


B 




5 


c 

a 




Noon. 


Items. 


D. 

137 


C. 

15 


1811. 


Forv^ard 


1667 












Forward 


Oct. 2-1 
2.3 


Eiie 


46 


3.- 

s:5 


35 
36 


34 
34 


N.E. 
Do. i 


Clear 
Do. 


]- Bill Erie 




68 


2C 


Perry's 


50 


2!? 


46 


31 


Do. 1 


Do. 


Board, &c. 


1451 


27 


Cataragus 


31 


30 


56 


56 


s. i 


Do. 


Do. 




56 


28 


Buffalo 


31 


56 


6S 


58 


s.w. 


Do. 


Do. 

Ferry 




62 
50 


29 Chippaway 


22 


37 


46 


55 


S.E. 


Hazy 


Board, &c. 




£0 


















Guide to Falls 




50 


















Whisky 




25 


















Ferry 




SI 


30 


Lewistovvn 

Fort Niagara 


9 
6 


35 


(59 


52 


S,W. 


Clear 


C Bill Lewistown 


3 


50 


51 


Lewistown 


6 


38^58 


48 


E. 


Cloudy 


s 






Nov. 1 


Schlosser 


9 


48 56 


36 


S.W. 


Do. 


Board, &c. 


1 


37 


2 


West. Turnpike 


27 


51 47J35 


Do. • 


Do. 


Do. 


1 


25 


3 


Batavia 


21 


34.';o'37 


N. 1 


Do. 


Do. 


1 


81 


4 


Avon 


31 


285656 


S.E. 


Clear 


Do. 


1 


3 


5 
6 


Canandaigua 


18 45 54-56 
465838 


Calm 
N.E. 


Cloudy 
Do. 


J Boy 




19 


7 


West. Turnpike 


10 iS 58 55 


E. 


Do. 


Board, &c. 


1 




8 


Geneva 


6AS60 55 


S. 


Do. 


Do. 
Horse shoe 


1 


5 
31 


9 


Auburn 


23 55 62,46 


w. 


Do. 


Board. &c. 


] 


62 






1 i 1 






Tolls 


116 


10 


Manlius Square 


3338 48 45 

1 1 


N.W. 


Showr. 


Board, &c. 
Horse shoe 


l!46 
[31 


11 


West. Turnpike 


29,57 48 45 


N.E. 


Cloudy 


Board and tolls 


72 


12 
13 


Utica 


n 


36 38 36 

37 58 36 


Do. 
Do. 


Do. 
Do. 


; ■ Bill Utica 
Horse shoes 


5 81 

1 


I'l 


Herkimer 


u 


343435 


N.W. 


Do. 


Board and tolls 
Horse shoe 


J 72 

25 


1 5 Nose 


31 


30132 3.'; 


Do. 


Clear 


Board, &c. 


125 


16BroadaU)ia 


18'2S3236 


N.E. 


Cloudy 


Do. 


9 


17lBjliston 


20|45 48 50 


S.W. 


Do. 


Do. 


84 


18,Wateiford 


1 8 32 36- 56 


N.W. 


Clear 


Do. 


125 


19 Albany 

20) 


ll|5235S4 
;3l'36,S7 


Do. 
Do. 


Do. 

Snow 


I Bill Albany 


3*37 


21 Hudson river 


90 35 36 42 


Do. 


Cloudy 


Passage for horse 








i 






including hay am 








1 






oats 


5 50 


22!New York 


70 47 50 46 


Do. 


Clear 


Passage by steam- 








1 


' 






boat 


7 




1 




234ll 











— 


1 




1 








189 36 



TABLE OF DISTANCES, %C. 595 

ITicse trarels altogether comprehend a range of 21,810 miles, viz. 

In Scotland 980 England 1 130 

Ireland 520 Atlantic Ocean 13000 

Upper Canada 30 United States fi.j.'jO 

21,8 lU 

Tlie expt;nc«s of the journey in the foregoing table may be arranged as follows : 

D. C. D. a 

From New York to Pliiladelphia 6 95 At Zancsville - - 8 75 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh 32 15 From Zanesville to Cleveland .173 

"Visit to the Hurmonist Society 8 12 At Cleveland - - 4 

Expencc;; at Pittsburgh 8 6 From Cleveland to the Falls of Niag. 10 52 

From Pittsburgh to Marietta 6 74 At tlie falls - - 3 25 

At Marietta - - - 3 31 From the Falls to Lake Ontario, and 

From Marietta to Cincinnati 6 S4 back to Fort Schlosser .' 1 S 

AtCincimati - - - 2 50 From Fort Schlosser to Utica 10 9) 

From Cincinnati to the falls of Ohio 6 At Utica - - 3 81 

At the Falls - - - 8 51 From Utica to Albany, by Ballston 6 40 

From the Falls to Lexington 4 25 At Albany - - 3 37 

At Lexington - - - 9 87 Passage to Ntw Yoik 7 

From Lexington to Zanesville 8 51 Ditto for hoi-sc - . 5 50 

Dot. 189 36 



This will afford a pretty correct idea of the expence of travelling between different 
points in the interior of the country. Tlie expence of a passage from Europe to Ame- 
rica was noticed in the Introduction, page 10. 

There are two great leading roads to the western country ; the one through the in- 
terior of Pennsylvania, the other through New York. Families moving to the western 
country generally take the one most contiguous to them. Tlie most common mode is 
to travel by waggons of their own, in which rase tiiey provide food for themselves; anJ 
tlieir horses, and are accommodated with lodgings at the diifcrent houses where they 
stop all night. The charge for this acconimodition is generally very moderate, ami, 
when tlie moving family is poor, the payment is often dispensed with. 

There arc so many different points from whence emigrants set out, and to which thej' 
go, that it is difficult to fprm an estimate that will apply to them alL Probably tht 
following ^'ievf may be the most intelligible. 

A waggon with 2 horses can accommodate 7 persons, and can travel witli tolerable 
«ase 20 miles a day, the Sundays being devoted to rest ; and, by travelling econoniicallv 
the whole expence will not exceed 2 dollars per day, or 14 dollars per week, in \\l\\c\\ 
the family can travel 120 miles. At this rate, a family of 7 can travel from Connecti- 
cut to Cleveland, 600 miles, for 70 dollars; or from Philadelphia to Zanesville, in Ih-; 
interior of the state of Ohio, 425 miles, for about 60 dolhrs. On the latter route a 
great many waggons travel between Philadelphia and Pittsburg, and it was stated, pa^c 
315, that waggon-hire was about 5 dollai-s per cwt for both persons and property. The 
carriage of a family of 7, by this conveyance, would coit about 45 dollars, besides tlnir 
board ; w hich appears more in proportion than by tlie other mode ; but it is to be ob- 
served, that in tliis way it is unnecessary to purchase horses or waggons, which in tl 
eastern states, are pretty dear, and there is no wear and tear. A considerable savipr 
can frequently be made on both routes by water conveyance : on the north by Lake 
Erie, and on the south by the Ohio river. The stage between Philadelphia and Pitts- 
burgh is the most agreeable and expeditious mode of travelling on that road, aiul is 
jnreferrcd by such as can afford the expence. 



APPENDIX. 

No. I. 

Oj" the Cause of Yelloxv Fever ; and the means of preventing it in places 
not i/et infectedmth it: addressed to the Board nf' Health in America. 
B)j Thomas Paine. 

A GREAT deal has been Avritton respecting the yellow fever. First, 
with respect to its causes, whether domestic or imported. Secondly, 
oi] the mode of treating it. 

What I am poing to suggest in this essay is, to ascertain some point 
to begin at, in order to airive at the cause; and for this purpose some 
preliminary observations are necessary. 

The yellow fever always begins in the lowest part of a populous mer- 
cantile town, near the water, and continues there, without affecting 
the higher parts. The sphere, or circuit it acts in, is small, and it 
rages most where large (juantities of new ground have been made, by 
l)ai)king out of the river, for the purpose of making wharves. The ap- 
pearance and prevalence of the yellow fever in these places, being 
those where vessels arrive from the West Indies, has caused the belief^ 
that tiie jellow fever was imported from thence. But here are two 
cases acting in the same place: the one, the condition of the ground 
at the wharves, which, being new made on the muddy and filthy bot- 
totii of the river, is different from the natural condition of the ground 
in the higher parts of the citj', and consequently subject to produce 
a diiiercnt kind of effluvia or vapour; the other case is the arrival of 
vessels from the West Indies. 

In the state of Jersey, neither of these cases has taken place; no 
.sliipping arrive there, and consequently there has been no embankment 
for the purpose of wharves, and the yellow fever has never broke out 
in Jersc}'. This, however, does not decide the point, as to the imme- 
diate cause of the fever ; but it shows that this species of fever is not 
common to the country in its natural state; and I believe the same was 
the case in tfe West Indies, before embankments began, for the pur- 
pose of making wharves ; whii-h always alter the natural condition of 
the ground. No old history, that I know of, mentions such a disorder 
as (he yellow fever. 

A person seized with the yellow fever in an affected part of the town, 
and brought into the healthy pait, or into the country and among heal- 
thy persons, does not con^muuicate it to the neighbourhood, or to those 
iinmtdiately around him. Why then are M'e to suppose it can be 
brougiit from the West Indies, a distance of more than a thousand miles, 
since we see it cannot be carried from one town to another, nor fron) 
one part of a town to a»oli.er, at home? Is it in the air? Ihis ques- 
tion on the case requires a minute examination. In the first place, the 
difference between air and wind is the same as between a stream of 
vvatcr, and a slarding water. A stream of water is v.ater in motion, 
lind wintl is air in motion. In a gentle breeze, the whole body of air, 
as far the breeze extends, nioves at the rate of seven or eight miles an 
hour ; in a high wind, at the rate of seventy, eighty, or a hundred 
nilts an hour. When we see the shadow of a cloud gliding on the 



ESSAY ON YELLOW FEVER. ,<J97 

surface of the ground, we see the rate at which the air moves, and it 
must be a good trotting horse that can keep pace with the shadow, 
even in a gentle breeze; consequently, a body of air that is in and 
over any place of the same extent as the affected part of a city may be, 
will, in the space of an hour, even at the moderate rate I speak of, 
be moved seven or eight miles to leeward, and its place, in and 
over the city, will be supplied by a new boil}' of air coming from a 
healthy part seven or eight miles distant the contrary way, and so 
on in continual succession. The disorder, therefore, is not in the air 
considered in its natural state, and never stationary — This leads to 
another consideration of the case. 

An impure effluvia, arising from some cause in the ground, in ;hc 
manner that fermenting liquors produce an effluvia near its surfdce that 
is fatal to life, will become mixed with the air coniiguous to it, and as 
fast as that body of air moves off, it will impregnate every succeeding 
body of air, however pure it may be, when it arrives at the place. 

The result trom this state of the case is, that the ivnpure air or va- 
pour that generates the yellow fever, issues from the earth, that is, 
from the new made earth, or ground, raised on the muddy and fillh)' 
bottom of the river, which impregnates every fresh body of air that 
comes over the place, in like manner as air becomes heated when it 
approaches or passes over the fire, or becomes offensive in smell when 
it approaches or passes over a body of corrupt vegetable or animal 
matter in a state of putrefaction. 

The muddy bottom of rivers contains great quantities of impure, 
and often inflammable air (carburetted hydrogen gas,) injurious; to life; 
and which remains entangled in the mud till let loose from thence by 
some accident. This air is produced by the dissolution and decomposi- 
tion of any combustible matter falling into the water, and sinking into 
the mud, of which the following circumstance will serve to give some 
explanation. 

In the fall of the year that New York was evacuated (1783,) ecne* 
ral Washington had his head quarters at Mrs Berrian's, at Rocky-Hill, 
in Jersey, and I was there. The congress then sat at Princeton. We 
had several times been told, that the river or creek that runs rear the 
bottom of Rocky-Hill, and over which there is a mill, migiit be pet on 
fire — for that was the term the country people used ; and as general 
Washington had a mind to try the experiment, general Lincoln, who 
was also there, undertook to make preparation for it against the next 
evening, November 5th. This was to be done, as we were told, by 
disturbing the mud at the bottom of the river, and holding something 
in a blaze, as paper or straw, a little above the surface of the water. 

ColontU Humphries and Cob were at that time aid-de-camps of 
general Washington, and those two gentlemen and m3'self got into an 
argument respecting the cause. Their opinion was, that on disturb- 
ing the bottom of the river, some bituminous matter arose to the sur- 
face, which took fire when the light was put to it. I, on the contrary, 
supposed tliat a quantity of inflammable air was let loose, which as- 
cended through tiie water, and took fire above the surface. Each party 
held to his own opinion, and the next evening the experiment was to 
be made. 

A scow had been stationed in the mill dam, and general Washington, 
general Lincoln, and myself, and I believe colonel Cob (for colonel 



59S APPENDIX, NO. I. 

Humphries was sick,) and three or four soldiers with poles, were put 
on board the scow. General Washington placed himself at one end of 
the scow, and I at the other. Each of us had a roll of cartridge pa- 
pe', which we liglited and held over the water, about two or three 
inches from the surface, when the soldiers began disturbing the 
bottom of the river with poles. 

As general Washington sat at one end of the scow, and I at the 
other, I could see better any tiling that might happep from his light, 
than I could from my own, over which I was nearly perpendicular. 
When the mud at the bottom was disturbed by the poles, the air-bub- 
bles rose fast, and I savi the fire take from general Washington's light, 
and descend from thence to the surface of the water, in a similar man- 
ner as, when a lighted candle is held so as to touch the smoke of a can- 
dle just blown out, the smoke will take fire, and the fire will descend 
and light up the candle. This was demonstrative evidence, that what 
tvas called setting the riv^r on fire, was setting the inflammable air on 
fire th.at ai ose out of the mud. 

I mentioned this experiment to Mr. Rittenhouse, of Philadelphia, 
the next time I went to that city; and our opinion on the case was, that 
the air or vapour that issued from any combustible matter (vegetable 
or otherwise) that underwent a dissolution and decomposition of its 
parts, either by fire or water, in a confined place, so as not to blaze, 
would be inflammable, and would become flame whenever it came in 
contact with flame. 

In order to determine if this was the case, we filled up the breech 
of a gun barrel about five or six inches with saw-dust, and the upper 
part with dry sand to the top, and, after spiking up the touch-hole, 
put the breech into a smith's furnace, and kept it red hot, so as to 
consume the saw-dust ; the sand, of consequence, would prevent any 
blaze. We appplied a lighted candle to the mouth of the barrel ; as 
the first vapour that flew off would be humid, it extinguished the can- 
dle ; but, after applying the cand e three or four times, the vapour 
that issued out began to flash. We then tied a bladder over the mouth 
of the barrel, which the vapour soon filled, and then, tying a string 
round the neck of the bladder, above the muzzle, took the bladder off. 

As we could not conveniently make experiments upon the vapour 
while it was in the bladder, the next operation was, to get it into a 
phial ; for this purpose, we took a phial of about three or four ounces, 
filled it with water, put a cork slightly into it, and, introducing it into 
the neck of the bladder, worked the cork out, by getting hold of it 
through the bladder, into which the water then emptied itself, and the 
air in the bladder ascended into the phial ; we then put the cork into 
the phial, and took it from the bladder. It was now in a convenient 
condition for experiment. 

We put a lighted match into the phial, and the air or vapour in it 
blazed up in the manner of a chimney on fire. We extinguished it two 
or three tiniee, by stopping the mouth of the phial ; and putting the 
lighted match to it again, it repeatedly took ifire, till the vapour was 
spent, and the phial became filled with the atmospheric air. 

These two experiments — that, in which some combustible substance 
(branches and leaves of trees) had been decomposed by water, in the 
mud, and this, whtre the decomposition had been produced by fire, 
without blazing, show, that a species of air injurious to life, when 



ESSAY ON YELLOW FEVER. 599 

taken into the lungs, may be generated from substances wliich in 
themselves are harmless. 

It is by means similar to these, that charcoal, which is made by 
fire without blazin^T, emits a vapour destructive to life. I now come to 
apply these case?, and the reasoning deduced therefrom, to account 
for the cause of the yellow fever.* 

First, The yellow fever is not a disorder produced by the climate 
naturally, or it would always have been here in the hot months. The 
climate is the same now as it was fifty or a hundred years ago. There 
was no yellow fever then ; and it is only within the last twelve years 
that such a disorder has been known in America. 

Secondly, The low grounds on the shores of the rivers, at the cities, 
where the yellow fever is annually generated, and continues about 3 
months without spreading, were not subject to that disorder in their 
natural state, or the Indians would have forsaken them ; whereas, they 
were the parts most frequented b}' the Indians in all seasons of the 
year, on account of fishing. The result from thtse cases is, that the 
yellow fever is produced by some new circumstance not common to 
the country in its natural state ; and the question is, what is that new 
circumstance ? 

It may be said that every thing done by the white people, since their 
settlement in the country, such as building towns, clearing lands, level- 
ling hills, and filling up valleys, is a new circumstance ; but the yellow 
fever does not accompany any of these new circumstances. No alter- 
ation made on the dry land produces the ) cllow fever : we must, there- 
fore, look to some other new circumstances ; and we coma now to those 
that have taken place between wet and dry, between land and water. 

The shores of the rivers at New York, and also at Philadelphia, iiave, 
on account of the vast increase of commerce, and for the sake of mak- 
ing wharves, undergone great and rapid alterations from their natural 
state, within a few years ; and it is only in such parts of the shores, 
where those alterations have taken place, that the yellow fever has been 
produced. The parts where little or no alteration has been made, 
either on the East or North River, and which continue in their natural 
state, or nearly so, do not produce the yellow fever. The fact, there* 
fore, points to the cause. 

Besides several new streets gained from the river by embankment, 
there are upwards of eighty new wharves made since the war, andth^; 
much greater part within the last ten or twelve years ; the consequenct* 
of which has been, that great quantities of filth, or combustible mat- 
ter, deposited in the mudd}- bottom of the river contiguous to the 
shore, and whicli produced no ill effect while exposed to the air, and 
washed twice every twenty-four hours by the tide water, have been 
covered over several feet deep with new earth, and pent up, and the 
tide excluded. It is in these places, and in these only, tiiat the yel- 
low fever is produced. 

Having thus shown, from the circumstances of the case, that the 
cause of the yellow fever is in the place wlicre it -makes its appear- 
ance, or rather in the pernicious vapour issuing therefrom, I go on to 

* Tlie autlior docs not mean to infer, that the inflammable air, or carourett'il hydro- 
gen gas, is the cause of the yellow lever ; but tliat perhaps it enters into sowe com- 
brnation with nuasiu generated in low jjrouuiii, wiiich produces the di'-esie. 



600 APPfeSuix, NO. i> 

show a method of constructing wharves, where wharves are yet to he 
constructed, as on the shore of tlie East River, at Corlai.r's Hook, 
and also on the North River, that will not occasion the yellow fever, 
and which may also point out a method of removing it from places al- 
ready infected with it. Instead, then, of embanking out the river, and 
raising solid wharves of earth on the mud bottom of the shore, the 
better method would be to construct wharves on arches, built of stone. 
The tide will then flow in under the arch, by which moans the shore 
and the muddy bottom will be washed and kept clean, as if they were 
in their natural state without wharves. 

When wharves are constructed on the shore lengthways, that is, 
without cutting the shore up into slips, arches can easily be turned, be- 
cause arches joining each other lengthways, serve as buttments to each 
other; but when the shore is cut up into slips, there can be no buttments. 
In this case wharves can be formed on stone pillars, or wooden piles 
planked over on the top. In either of these cases, the space underneath 
will be a commodious shelter or harbour for small boat.-J, which can go 
in and come out always, except at low water, and be secure frcni 
storms and injuries. This method, besides preventing the cause of the 
yellow fever, which I think it will, will render the wharves more pro- 
ductive than the present method, because of the space preserved with- 
in the wharf. 

I offer no calculation of the expence of constructing wharves on arch 
rs or piles ; but on a general view, I believe they will not be so expen- 
sive as the present method. A v^ry great part of the expence of mak- 
ing solid wharves of earth is occasioned by the carriage of materials, 
which Mill be greatly reduced by the methods here proposed, and stiil 
more so, were the arches to be constructed of cast iron blocks. I sup- 
pose that one ton of cast iron blocks would go as far in the construc- 
tion of an arch as twenty tons of stone. 

If, by constructing wharves in such manner that the tide water can 
wash the shore and bottom of the river contiguous to the shore, as they 
are washed in their natural condition, tlie yellow fever can be prevent- 
t'd from generating in places where wharves are yet to be constructed, 
it may point out a method of removing it, at least by degrees, from 
piaces already infected with it, which will be, by opening the wharves 
ni two or three places in ench, and letting tiie tide water pass through, 
i'lxi ports opened can be planked over, so as not to prevent the use of 
the wharf. 

In taking up and treating this subject, I have considered it as be- 
longing to natural philosophy, rather than medicinal art ; and therc- 
iore I say notliing about the treatment of the disease after it takes 
place. I leave that part to those whose profession it is to istudy it. 

No. 11. 

Letter to a Member of' rarliament on the Orders in Council, and the 
American Trade. 

In the present eventful period of our history, when a war adn:inistra- 
tion seems determined, by every act of aggression and folly, to drive 
their country to the utmost extremity of distress, I consider it the duty 
«f every man whu loves his country, to contribute his utmost efforts to 



LETTER TO A MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT. 601 

save the state. I think I cannot better use mine than by a communica- 
tion to youj selecting fT r my subject the relations between this coun- 
try and America. I prefer making this communication to a public 
character, because he has the power of making the best use of the facts 
communicated. I prefer making it to you, because you appear to me to 
stand on independent ground ; I prefer the subject of our relations 
with America, because I conceive it to be of the greatest national im- 
portance, and but indifferently understood ; and because, having re- 
cently been in that country, I consider myself pretty well acquainted 
with it. 

You are, of course, sufficiently aware of the great importance of the 
trade between the two countries. The supply of nearly six millions of 
people with manufactures of every description, must be an object of 
great consequence to a manufacturing country ; and it is peculiarly be- 
neficial to this country, from the facility with which it can be carried on. 
The inhabitants of America speak the same language as ourselves ; 
they have the same manners and habits ; they are in some measure 
governed by the same laws; and the articles they have to give in ex- 
change are exactly such as we want. 

Now, sir, it is my opinion, that this commerce can not only be car- 
ried on, but even increased to a much greater extent, unless it be in- 
terrupted by our own folly. I speak with confidence, from what I 
linow of the people and government of the United States, that they 
^e so much disposed to peace, and a cultivation of their trade, that 
nothing but the most imperious necessity will force them to relinquish 
their commerce with this country, far less to enter into a state of hos- 
tility ; but I am afraid that some of our late acts will drive them to th* 
former of these cruel alternatives, and there is no saying how soon the 
present ministry may drive them to the latter also. 

It would appear, however, that the ministry act upon no hostile de- 
sign towards America ; but it is sufficiently obvious, that they have 
formed a very mistaken idea of the American character; and it is no 
favourable omen, that their hireling writers dwell with peculiar plea- 
sure upon every topic calculated to give an unfavourable opinion of 
that country, towards which they have in many instances used the lan- 
guage of insult. They are supported, too, by a writer, who, by a 
knack at making bold assertions, and of supporting them by low bul- 
lying language, has acquired a very considerable degree of celebrity in 
this country, who, thougli a man whose avowed tenets of political 
faith hold him up to public destc-tation, and whose rancour against 
America, the cause of which is well known, subjects every thing he 
has to say upon that country to at least a considerable degree of sus- 
picion ; yet, having resided there, he certainly is looked up to for in- 
tormation. The boldness of his assertions makes them pass current 
with many, and it is probable his opinions have a ■%ide spread in the 
country ; for I have often heard very strange and inconsistent doctrines 
held by very well-informed people, and him quoted as the authority.* 

Now, in opposition to all that such writers have said, or can say, 
against the people and government of the United States, I can affirm, 
from actual observation, that they possess a superiority over every 

* The writer alluded to has since abjured his error, and hns made ample reparHtion to 
Hit cause of truth and ju»tice. 

7Q 



602 APPENDIX, NO. II. 

Other people and government in many particulars ; and because a re- 
view of some of thein is necessary to illustrate my subject, I shall, as 
briefly as possible, notice a few of the most important. 

1st. The laws place all the citizens on a footing of perfect equality. 
There are no laws of entail, or of primogeniture, to divide the people; 
and hence the mass of them are hardy independent republicans, cul- 
tivators of the soil they possess. Few are so rich as to be above the 
necessity of labour, and few are so poor as to be in a state of depend- 
ence; fewer still live on charity. I resided in the country twelve 
months, and travelled through twelve of the states, comprehending a 
range of 1300 iniles, and in all that time I never saw a beggar but 
one ; he was from this country, and it turned out, in the sequel, that i 
he was an impostor, and not really in want. 

2d. Public education is cherished by the people and government. It 
will, no doubt, give you pleasure that I dwell on this article. It is ne- 
cessary, for the illustration of the subject, to notice the subdivision 
of the country. Each state is divided into counties, and many of these 
are subdivided into townships of six miles square, being a division 
somewliat similar to our parishes. In the charters of incorporation of 
these townships, provision is generally made for the instruction of 
youth, by appropriations of land and other funds, and the schools are 
mostly all free. Besides this, there are numerous colleges, academies, 
and public libraries, supported partly by the states, and partly by in- 
dividuals ; and these seminaries are rapidly increasing. I shall further 
illuslrate the subject by taking the states in their order. 

[Here followed an account of the state oi' education throughout 
the country ; but as this has been inserted in the foregoing work, it is 
here omitted.] 

I have dwelt long upon this subject, because I judge it of great im- 
portance, and because it is very generally believed, that, in point of 
education, the Americans are far behind the British, 

The case is quite the reverse, — they are far before them, — I mean 
thetnass of the people. I did not meet with a single native American, 
above 12 years of age, who could not both read and write, and they 
are, in general, a very intelligent people. With politics they are well 
acquainted, and there are more newspapers read in America, in pro- 
portion to the inhabitants, than in any country in the world. 

I shall confirm this statement by an extract from Morse's American 
Geography, article New England. " In New England, learning is 
more generally diffused among all ranks than in any Other part of the 
globe; arising from the excellent establistjment of schools in almost) 
every township and other smaller districts. In these schools, which 
are generally supported by a public tax, and under the direction of a 
school committee, are taught the elements of reading, writing, and 
arithmetic; and in the more wealthy townships, they are beginning 
to introduce the higher branches, viz. grammar, geography, &c. A 
Yery valuable source of information to the people is the newspapers, 
of which not less than 30,000 are printed every week in New England, 
and they circulate in almost every town and village in the country " 
In a note he adds — "According to an accurate estimate made 10 years 
ago, it appears that no less than 79,000 newspapers were printed week- 
ly in the American states, which in a year would amount to 4 mil- 
lions.'^ — There is good reason to believe that the number has sine* 



LETTER TO A MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT. 603 

teearly doubled. He goes on — " A person of mature age who cannot 
both read and write is rarely to be found. By means of the general es- 
tablishment of sciiools, the extensive circulation of newspapers, and tho 
consequent spread of learning, every township throuiiliout the country 
is furnished with men capable of conducting the affairs of t'lsir town 
with judgment and discretion. These men are the channels of political 
information to the lower class of the people ; if such a class may be 
said to exist in New England, where every man thinks himself as good 
as his neighbour, and believes that all mankind ought to possess equal 
rights." 

3d. In religious matters there is neither toleration nor intoleration ; 
but universal right of cdnscience. The constitution of rlie United States 
provides equally against forming any rehgious establishment, and against 
any interference with the free exercise of religion. " Religion is there 
placed on its proper basis, without the unwarrantable aid of the civil 
power, supported alone by its own evidence, by the lives of its profes- 
sors, and by the Almighty care of its divine Author;" and every maa 
may freely exercise his religious opuiions, be they what they may, with- 
out at all interferi'ig with his rights as a citizen. 

4th. The government of the country is in the hands of the people. 
America is what is called a Federal Republic. Each state has a legis- 
lative and executive government to manage internal concerns ; and 
all the states, joined together for mutual convenience and securirvs 
form the general or federal government. It consists of the house of re- 
presentatives, senate, and the president, — elected by the people; and 
to them certain powers are delegated by the several states : among o- 
thers, the formation and regulation of ail foreign relations. The federal 
revenue consists at present principally of a tax on imports. 

From hence it will obviously appear that the United States possess a 
firm government. The good education of the people enables them to 
form a correct opinion of their rights; aiid their frequent elections af- 
ford them the necessary opportunity to a^^^ert tiiem. There is no pri- 
vileged aristocracy to corrupt them, and there are no hireling priests to 
mislead them. Ti)c government a\id the people can have no separate 
interest. Peace is the interest of the country ; and the government will 
never declare war unless they have good grounds for it. At all events, 
any war undertaken by the United States must be sanctioned by the.' peo- 
ple; and in my opinion they reason very widely who suppose ;.hd go- 
vernment v.ill rush blindly into a war without such sanction. Indeed, 
I think I may venture to predict that while the present form of govern- 
ment remains, no war will ever be undertaken by the Unitaci States but 
in self-defence; and if that should become necessary, it will be strong 
vigorous, and efficient. 

They are, however, diffc^rently represented here. We generally sura 
up the whole of the executive government in the person of JMr. Jferfer- 
son; and because he is not sufficiently subservient to our views, he nust, 
forsooth, be under the inri.i.- ceof Bonaparte. It is reaily astoii.s.iing, 
by the way, to observe tiie amazing powji- which n.iny of our po.ititiauj 
ascribe to this man. Thiiy talk and -iJion as if no circumstance cjui^ 
happen on the face of the earth in tlii least contrary to the designs of 
the powers that oe in this cou.itry, but he mast be the instigator. 1 cm 
assure them, however, that M. Jetferson, and laoso who act along witb 
him, are no more under the induencs of Bonaparte thaa I am. i'hitx 



604; APPENDIX, NO. 11. 

maxim is to cultivate a good understanding with all the nations of the 
earth- to quarrel and to ally with none. 

But they will only cultivate a good understanding with other powers 
upon a footing of perfect equality. If they are inclined to do as they 
would be done hy, they have a right to expect the same treatment in 
return. This is all that honest men can wish for ; but I am afraid that 
our present ministry are not inclined to recognize this simple but sub- 
stantial basis. 

The disputes between America and this country have been of long 
standing; but the ground of quarrel was much enlarged in consequence 
of certain spoliations on the American trade in 1 805. It would be te- 
dious to notice all thv.^ grounds of complaint ; I shall, therefore, select 
one instance, singular in its nature, and extremely offensive in its ope- 
ration. In the year alluded to, several of our^hips of war were station- 
ed in the mouth of the Mississippi, to intercept the Spanish vessels in 
the navigation of that river, to the great annoyance of the trade of New 
Orleans ; while these very ships of war had special orders to allow Spa- 
nish vessels to par,s and repass freely to and from our own West India 
islands. This, among other circumstances, led to the non-importation 
act. A short lime after, a naval force was stationed off the entrance to 
Kev/ York harbour, and intercepted every thing that came in their way. 
But tiieir conduct was peculiarly offensive in firing upon coasting ves- 
sels ; and at len^^th the death of Pierce, who was killed by a shot from 
the Leander, liglited up a flame throughout the whole continent. This 
wanton act of aggression has been palliated and frittered away by writers 
on this side of the water; but having examined into all the circumstan- 
ces of the case, I have no hesitation in saying that had a similar circum- 
stance occurred to one of our vessels, upon our own shores, ample re- 
paratioB must have been made, or war would have been the inevitable 
consequence. 

Fortunately, Mr. Pitt was by this time off the stage, and the Ameri- 
cans had a rational and pacific administration to deal with ; who, I have 
no doubt, would have healed the breachflong before this time, had they 
renaained in povi er. I know, to a certainty, that the American govern- 
ment had confidence in them ; for in a conversation which I had with 
the president, in October, 180G, he exprosded himself to that effect; and 
he observed, in particular, that Mr. Fox was a man of the most liberal 
and enlightened policy — a friend to his country, and to the human race. 
But in an evil hour for Britain, and for the world, the present ministry 
got into power by avowedly trampling upon the religious rights of man. ■ 
They are said to be energetic, and they have certainly " exerted their 
energies" with a vengeance. They have quarrelled with nearly all Eu- 
rope ; and, not content with that, they seem fully determined, by the ' 
folly of their measures, tc vorce America into a quarrel also. I pass 
over the foul act on the GhLsapeak, because it appears to have been un- 
Jiuthorizcd, and n^ight, taken singly, have been easily adjusted. But the 
late orders in council appear to me to be the most impolitic measure 
that ever this or any other government adopted towards a neutral and 
friendly power. America cannot possibly act upon the principle which 
iheseordersrecognizewithoutsurrenderingher indepeudence asa nation, 
and violating her ueuirr.Iity ; in which caae it is very obvious she would 
immediately have a quarrel with France and her dependencies; and that 
she will take care to avoid. Indeed, 1 have little doubt but one great 



€f^ 



LETTER TO A MEMBER OB" 1*ARLIAMENT. 605 

reason for passing those hateful orders was to bririg the question to that 
very issue — to force America into a war with France. 

Still, however, I do not dread an immediate war with America. The 
ministry, impolitic as I esteem them, do not appear to have formed any 
hostile design against that country ; but much evil may result from their 
domineering bullying spirit before matters are adjusted: and as they 
appear to be totally ignorant of the American character, there is no say- 
ing how far they may carry their " vigorous measures," if the Americans , 
stand firm ; and this they assuredly will. From what I know of the A- 
iTierican ciiaracter, I am confident they never will submit to the restric- 
tions we have been imposing upon their trade for years ; and in particu- 
lar, they never will submit to these orders in council. What ! allow their 
ships to be forced into this country, searched, taxed, and licenced, be- 
fore they proceed to France or her dependencies ! They are truly bold 
politicians who have dared to suppose they would. It has been alleged 
that the French government have forced us to adopt these measures by 
their blockading decrees ; but those who make the allegation complete- 
ly overlook the policy of France towards Aaierica : for no sooner were 
these blockading decrees issued, than the French government avowed 
in the most distinct terms that they had no reference whatever to the 
trade between America and Britain; and that the existing, treaty be- 
tween France and America should have full effect. They not only con- 
tinued to act upon this principle up to the date of our orders in council, 
but they gave orders to Spain to release certain American vessels which 
were carried into that country in virtue of similar decrees, alleging that 
the Spanish government had misconceived their meaning. If further 
proof be wanted, it is only necessary to look at the rate of insurance on 
American and British vessels for twelve months back. 

But whatever the French government intended to do before, it is very 
certain they will resort to most *' vigorous measures" now, for they 
have already passed decrees not only to set aside the effects of our orders 
in council, but they proceed a step farther, and declare that if American 
vessels even suffer themselves to be searched by our ships of war, a mea- 
sure which they cannot Lelp, they will be denationalized, and liable to 
confiscation : so that between the two contending nations, the Ameri- 
can trade is brought into a more avvkward situation than has ever been 
endured by any neutral power. Our orders in council are the primary 
cause ; and the reniaining inquiry is : What is likely to be the conse- 
quence ? Will the present ministry revoke them ? No : they have 
vaunted so much about their energetic measures that it would be folly 
to expect it. W^ill the American government submit to them? No : 
the independent spirit of the country forbids it. Will France and lier 
dependencies acquiesce in them ? No : Bonaparte does not possess a 
spirit sufficiently accommodating to warrant us in thinking tliey will. 
The most probable conjecture, therefore, is that America will suspend 
her trade with Europe, throw herself upon the defensive, and in that 
posture remain till the fightmg folks of Europe come to their senses. 
When that will be, God knows ; but I am much afraid it will not be 
while the present administration remain in power. 1 attribute the ac- 
. cumulated distress which is pressing upon my country tolhefals^e policy 
wliich has been acted upon for many years past; and I am firnriiy per- 
suaded that we shall never enjoy repose nor prosperity till her councils 
are swayed by men " who will do to others as they would be done by.' 



606 APPENDIX, NO. If. 

This, it is my firm belief, the present ministry never will do: and, there- 
fore, I sincerely hope that God, in mercy to mankind, will be pleased to 
remove them soon, and that he will substitute in their place men of up- 
rightness and integrity, who fear God and hate covetousness. 

I am, &c, 

January^ 25, 1808. J. M. 

P. S. Jan 27. — Since the foregoing letter was written, advice has 
been received, that what I anticipated has partly taken place. An em- 
bargo has been laid in America, and it is easy to see the disastrous con- 
sequences which must be the resultt However, &ome of o\xr energetic 
politicians here are talking very big about reducing the Yankees to obe- 
dience. No doubt tliey anticipate that glorious sport will result from 
an American war ; and, to gratify them, perhaps their masters may car- 
ry matters to that extremity. If they do, I have yet one piece of news 
in store for them : The Americans never will make peace until the free- 
dom of the seas be completely and unequivocally recognized as a basis ! 

The above letter was sent to the editor of a periodical paper in the 
month of June following, accompanied by the subsequent remarks: 

The foregoing letter was sent to a member of parliament in the month 
of January last, and a copy of it was intended to be sent to your Rev/ew 
at the same time ; but other avocations retarded it for a few weeks, and 
upon reflection, it was judged adviseable to decline the publication until 
the new system adopted towards America should fully develope itself. 

I am now sorry to find that the most of my conjectures, unfavourable 
as they were, are short of tlie reality. I find, too, that they are corro- 
borated by the opinions of men of the most extensive information and 
judgment : Mr. Baring's very able pamphlet upon the orders in council, 
and Mr. Brougham's admirable speech upon the same subject, in sum- 
ming up the evidence before the house of commons, are before the pub- 
lic, and ought to be read by every commercial man in tliese kingdoms. 
Sanctioned by these, and by the evidence of facts, further reserve is un- 
necessary. We cannot stem the torrent, — but we can endeavour to o- 
pen the eyes of our countrymen to see the sacrifice which many of them 
are so loudly calling for ; and we can prepare such of them as are open 
to conviction for what will infallibly be the issue, if the system is long 
persevered in. Necessity may compel the American government to en- 
courage their own manufactures for the present ; and if they be once 
established, justice to the manufacturers may call upon it to protect 
them. We run great risk of losing the trade with the United States of 
America for ever, 

ExtracUjrom the Speech of Mr. Brougham he/ore the House of Commons, 

April 1, 1808. 

SIR, until our orders in council were issued, it appears clearly, with- 
out any reasoning, to any one who looks at the subject, that there was 
no possibility whatever of Bonaparte putting his threats into execution. 

You will find that in every quarter we have, by our orderg in council, 
been crossing and striking in with the enemy's plans, and supplying 
those deficiencies in their orders which they in vain attempted to make 
Hp. You will see too what the result has been ; that the commerce of 
this once flourishing country is now brought down to a state lower than 
it ever was expected to reach, even by the most gloomy prophets, in the 
worst times of our history. 



EXTRACTS FROM BROUGHAm's SPEECH. 607 

I hold in my hand a paper ordered to be printed on the IcJth of March, 
and giving the value or imports from the United States, and exports 
thither for the years 1805, 1806, and 1807. It appears from this docu- 
ment, that, in 1806, the imports from America to Great Britain amount- 
ed to 4,360,743/. real value, and that the exports from Great Britain to 
the United States, in the same year, amounted to 12,865,551/ ; and, by 
the average of those thi-ee years, we find the exports to the United 
States of America amount to upwards of twelve millions sterling, and 
the average of imports to upwards of four millions and a half; and as the 
disproportion is increasing, we may say, in general, that this country now 
exports to America three times as much as she imports from thence. 

I have just to ask the house this one question : Are you willing to con- 
tinue exporting to America twelve millions and a half of British produce 
and manufactures ; or are you not? If you are, how are you to be paid 
for it? It is evident that you only receive four millions direct from A- 
merica ; therefore, there are no less than eight millions wanting, and 
America, we all know, can only pay you by trading with the continent. 
If you wish to cut up that trade by the roots, you commit that old so- 
lecism of power, as my lord Bacon so well calls it — you wish to com- 
mand the end ; but you refuse to submit to the means. You desire t>.» 
trade with the United States of America ; but you desire, at the same 
time, to lop off their trade with the enemy, as you call it, which is, in o- 
ther words, lopping off the very commerce which you carry on with 
5'our enemy, in spite of the war, and in spite of himself, by which you 
were getting eight millions sterling each year — by which you were ena- 
bled to continue a trading nation. You are destroying the only means 
by which America can pay that enormous amount to you. She must 
have the opportunity not only of taking your goods, but of exporting 
her own, in order to pay you. She must not only export her own goods — 
she must also re-export yours with them, in order that you may still 
send them to your enemy, notwithstanding the hostilities you are engag- 
ed in — notwithstanding the decrees he is threatening your trade with. 
So stands the matter in argument, or, if you will, in theory ; and I now 
invite this house to say whether it is possible for them to conceive any 
thing more precise and conclusive than the evidence which has been ad- 
duced at your bar, to show that this is also the matter of fact, from the 
actual history of our trade with America. 

Therefore, Sir, I say that in cvQry point of view in which we can look 
at this new system of commercial regulation we see but one effect, name- 
ly, that of ruining and cutting off, root and branch, the whole of our 
traffic with the United States of America ; or, in other words, I may 
say, the whole of our foreign trade. 

Sir, this short and summary view of the measure, even without the 
aid of the statement so satisfiictorily set forth in the evidence before you, 
will, I trust, prove sufficiently decisive to entii«eme to leave this branch 
of the argument without one further comment ; and to affirm that I have 
completely demonstrated a proposition at first sight rather paradoxical : 
that England has, by her own measures, effectually, strictly, vigorously, 
countc'rsi<:ned the enemy's edict. 



®^^ uAPE£NDIX, .NO III. 

No. III. 

RemarJcs on the Scottish Peasantry, 
Extracted from Currie's edition of Burns' Works. 

A SLIGHT acquaintance with the peasantry of Scotland will serve 
to convince an unprejudiced observer that they possess a degree of in- 
telligence not generally found among the same class of men in the o- 
thor countries of Europe. In the very humblest condition of the Scot- 
tish peasant, every one can read, and most persons are more or less skill- 
ed ia writing and arithmetic ; and under the disguise of their uncouth 
appearance, and of their peculiar manners and dialect, a stranger will 
(liscover that they possess a curiosity, and have obtained a degree of in- 
formation, corresponding to these accmirements. 

These advanhiges they owe to the legal provision made by the par- 
liament of Scotland in 1646, for the establishment of a school in every 
parish throughout the kingdom, for the express purpose of educating the 
poor ; a law which may challenge comparison with any act of legislation 
to be found in the records of history, whether we consider the wisdom 
of the ends in view, the simplicity of the means employed, or the pro- 
visions made to render these means effectual to their purpose. This ex- 
cellent statute was repealed on the accession of Claries il. in 1G60, to- 
gether vvitfi ail the other laws passed during the coanmonwealth, as not 
beinfr sanctioned by the royal assent. It slept during the reigns of 
C! arles and James; but was re-enacted precisely in the same terms by 
the Scottish Parliament, after the revolution in 1699; and this is th'j 
hist provision on the subject. Its efiects on the national character may 
be considered to have commenced about the period of the Union ; and 
doubtless it co-operated with the peace and security arising from that 
happy, event, in producing the extraordinary change in favour of industry 
and good morals which the character of the common people of Scotland 
has since undergone. 

The church-establishment of Scotland happily coincides with this in- 
stitution just mentioned, which may be called its school-establishment. 
Tiie clergyman, btiiig every where resident in his particular parish, be- 
coniet< the natural patron and superintendant of the parish-school ; and 
is enabitU in various ways to promote the comfort of the teacher, and 
the proficiency of the scholars. The teacher himself is often a candi- 
date for holy orders, wlio, during the long course of study and proba 
lion required in the Scottish church, renders the time which can be spar- 
ed from his professional studies useful to others as well as himself, by 
n^suming the respectable character of a school-master. It is common 
tor the e.-tablijhed schools, even in the country parishes of Scotland, to 
enjoy the means of classical instruction; and many of the farmers, and 
some even of the cottagers, submit to much privation that they may ob- 
tain for one of their sons, at least, the precarious advantage of a learned 
etiucation The difficulty to be surmounted arises, indeed, not from the 
expense of instructing their children ; but from the charge of support- 
ing them In the country parish-bchools the English language, writing, 
and accounts are generally taught at the rate of six shillings, and Latirx 
at the rate often or twelve shillings, per annum. In the towns the pri-. 
ces are somewhat higher. 

It would be improper in this place to inquire minutely into the de- 



Remarks on the Scottish peasantry. 609 

grecs of instruction received at these seminaries, or to attempt any pre- 
cise estimate of its effects either on the individuals who ai-e the subjects 
of this instruction or on the community to vi^hich they belong. That it 
is, on the whole, favourable to industry and morals, though doubtless 
with some individual exceptions, seems to be proved by the most strik- 
ing and decisive appearances ; and it is equally clear that it is the cause 
of that spirit of emigration and of adventure so prevalent among the 
Scots. Knowledge has by Lord Verulam been denominated power ; by 
others it has, with less propriety, been denominated virtue or happi- 
ness : we may with confidence consider it as a motion. A human being, 
in proportion as he is informed, has his wishes enlarged, as well as thd 
means of gratifying those wishes. He may be considered as taking 
within the sphere of his vision a large portion of the globe on which we 
tread, and discovering advantage at a greater distance on its surface. 
His desires or ambition, once excited, are stimulated by his imagination, 
and distant and uncertain objects giving freer scope to the operation of 
this faculty, often acquire in the mind of the youthful adventurer aa 
■attraction from their very distance and uncertainty. If, therefore, Ji 
greater degree of instruction be given to tl»e peasantry of a country 
comparatively poor, in the neighbourhood of other countries rich in na- 
tural and acquired advantages, and if the barriers be removed that kept 
them separate, emigration from the former to the latter will take placii 
■to a certain extent, by laws nearly as uniform as those by which heat 
•diffuses itself among surrounding bodies, or water finds its level when 
left to its natural course. By the articles of the Union the barrier wa* 
broken down which divided the two British nations, and knowledge and 
poverty poured the adventurous natives of the north over the fertile 
plains of England, and mo,re especially over the colonies which she had 
settled in the east and in the west. The stream of population continues 
to flow from the north to the south ; for the causes that originally im~ 
pelled it continue to operate : and the richer country is constantly invi- 
gorated by the accession of an informed and hardy race of men, educat- 
ed in poverty, and prepared for hardship and danger, patient of labour, 
and prodigal of life. 

The preachers of the reformation in Scotland were disciples of Calvin, 
and brought with them the temper as well as the tenets of that celebrat- 
heresiarch. The presbyterian form of wo)-sliip and of church govern- 
ment was endeared to the people from its being established by them- 
selves. It was endeared to them also by the struggle it had to maintain 
with the Catholic and the Protestant episcopal churches, over both of 
which, after a hundred years of fierce, and sometimes bloody contention, 
it finally triumphec*, receiving the countenance of government, and the 
sanction of law. During this long period of contention and of suffering 
the temper of the people became more and more obstina.e and bigotted , 
and the nation received that deep tinge of fanaticism which coloured 
their public transactions as well as their private virtues, and of which 
evident traces may be found in our own times. When the public schools 
were established, the instruction communicated in them partook of the 
religious character of the people. The Catechism of the Westminster 
Divines was the universal school-book, and was put into the lands of the 
young peasant as soon as he had acquired a knowledge of his alphabet ; 
and his first exercise in the art of reading introduced him t«» the most 
mysterious doctrines of llie Chri<;tian faith. This practice is continued 

77 



^0 APPENDIX, NO. Iir. 

in our own times. After the Assembly's Catechism, the Proverbs of 
Solomon and the Now and Old Testament follow in regular succes- 
sion ; and the scholar departs, gifted with the knowledge of the sacred 
writinjis, and receiving their doctrines according to the interpretation 
of the Westminster Confession of Faith. Thus, with the instruction 
of infancy in the sciiools of Scotland, are blended the dogmas of the 
national church ; and hence the first and most constant exercise of in- 
genuity among the peasantry of Scotland is displayed in religious dis- 
putation. With a strong attachment to the national creed, is con- 
joined a bigotted preference of certain forms of worship ; the source of 
which would be often altogether ot)scure, if we did nat recollect 
that the ceremonies of the Scottish church were framed in direct oppo- 
sition, in every point, to those of the church of llo;ne. 

The in'ormation and the religious education of the peasantry of 
Scotland prouote sedateness of conduct, and habits of t lought and 
' reflection. — These good qualities are nof counteracted by the establish- 
ment of poor-laws, which, vvh'lc; they rellect credit on the benevolence, 
detract from the wisdom of the English legislature. 

Happily, in Scotland, the same legislature which established a sys- 
teiii of instruction for the poor, resisted the introduction of a legal pro- 
vision for the support of poverty ; the establishment of the rirst, and 
the rejection of t!ie last, were equally favourable to industry and good 
jnorals ; and hence it will not appear surprising if the Scottish peasan- 
try have a more than usual share of prudence and reflection, if they ap- 
proach nearer than persons of their order usually do to the definition of 
a man, that of " a being that looks before and after." These observa-> 
lions must, indeed, be taken with many exceptions : the favourable 
.operation of the causes just mentioned is counteracted by others of an 
opposite tendency ; and the subject, if fully examined, would lead to 
tliscussions of great extent. 

When the reformation was established in Scotland, instrumental 
music was banished from the ciiurches, as savouring too much of 
'* profane minstrelsy." Instead of being regulated by an instrument, 
the voices of the congregation are led and directed by a person under 
the name of a precentor, and the people are all expected to join in 
the tune which he chooses for the psalm which is to bd sung. Church 
music is therefure a part of th« education of the peasanti'y of Scotland, 
in which they are usually instructed in the long winter nights by tlie 
parish school-master, who is generally the precentor, or by itinerant 
' teacliers more celebrated for their powers of voice. This branch of 
educatioA had, in the last reign, falien into some neglect : but was re- 
vived about tiiirty or forty years ago, vvlien the music itself was re- 
formed and improved. 

That dancing should also be very generally a part of the education 
of the Scottish peasaiitry, will surprise those who have only seen this 
description of men : and :?till more those who reflect on tlie rigid spirit 
of Calvinism, with which the nation is so deeply affected, and to 
which this recreation is strongly abiiorrent. Tne winter is al»o the 
season when they acquire dancing, and indeed al.nost all tlieir other 
instruction. They are taught to dauce liy persons generally of their 
own number, many of whom work at daily labour durmg the summer 
nsonths. The school is usually a barn, and the arena for the perform - 
t'"* is generallv a clay tieor. The dome is lighted by candles stuck in 



REMARKS OS THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY. 611 

one end of a cloven stick, the other end of which is thrust into the 
wall. Reels, strathspeys, country-dances, and hornpipes are here prac- 
tised. The jig, so much in favour among the English peasantr}', has 
no place among them. The attachment of the people of Scotland of 
every rank, and particularly of tlie peasantry, to this amussment, is 
very great. After the labours of the day are over, youn;^ rr.'.'n and 
women walk many miles, in the cold and dri-ary ni iits of winter, to 
these country dancing-schools ; and the inst mt that the violin sounds a 
Scottish air, fafigue seems to vanish, the toil-bent rustic becomes 
erect, hisfeatcires brighten with sympatliy ; every nerve seems to thrill 
witli sensation, and every arter}' to vibrate with life, These rustic per- 
formers are less to be admired for gsace, than for agiiity and anima- 
tion, and their accurate observance of time. Their modes of (hmcing, 
as well as their tunes, are common to every rank in Scotland, and are 
now generally known. In our own day they have penetrated into 
England, and have established themselves even in the circle of rovalty. 
In another generation they will be naturalized in every part of the is- 
land. 

The prevalence of this taste, or rather passion for daacing, among a 
people so deeply tinctured witli the spirit and doctrines of Calvin/ is 
one of those contradictions which the philosophic observer so often 
finds in national character and manners. It is probably to be ascribed 
to tl;e Scottish nmsic, which through all its varieties, is so full of sen- 
sibility, and which, in its livelier strains, awakes those vivid emotions 
thai tind in dancing their natural solace and relief. 

This trmmph of the music of Scotland over tiie spirit of the esta- 
blished religion, has not, however, been obtained witnout long-conti- 
nued and obstinate struggles. The numerous sectaries who dissent 
from -the establishment, on account of the relaxation which they per- 
ceive, or t ;ink they perceive, in the church, from her original doc- 
trines and discipline, universally condemn the practice of diucing, and 
the schools where it is taught ; and the more elderly and seriois part 
of the people of every persuasion, tolerate rather than approve these 
meetings of the young of both sexes, where dancing is practised to 
their spirit-stirring music,, wdiere care is dispelled, toil is forgotten, 
I and prudence itself is sometimes lulled to sleep. 

The reformation, which proved fatal to the rise of the otiier fine 
arts in Scotland, probably impeded, but could not obstruct, the pro- 
gress of its music; a circumstance that will convince the impartial in- 
quirer, that this music not only existed previously to that aera, but 
had taken a lirm hold of the nation ; thus affording a proof of its anti- 
quity stronger than any produced by the researches of our antiijuaries. 

The impression whio the Scottish music has made on the people, is 
deepened by its union with the national songs, of which various col- 
lections, of unequal merit, are before the public. Tliese songs, like 
those of other nations, are many of them humourous, but they cliieriy 
treat of love, war, and drinking. Love is the subject of tlie greater 
proportion. Without displaying the higher powers oftlie imagination, 
they exhibit a perfect knowledge oftlie human heart, and breathe a 
spirit of artection, and sometimes of delicate and romantic temlerness, 
not to be surpassed in modern poetry, and which the more polished 
Ktrains of antiquity have seldom possessed. 



612 APPENDIX, NO. III. 

. There is now a legal provision for parochial schools, or rather for a 
fchool in each of the different townships into which the country is 
tlivided, in several of the northern states of North America They 
are, however, of recent origin there, excepting in New England, 
xvhere they were rstabli.'hed in the last century, probably about the 
s.ime time as in Scotland, and by the same religious sect. This is also 
the case in certain districts in England, particularly in the northern 
parts of Yorkshire and of Lancashire, and in the counties of West- 
moreland and Cumberland. 

A liiw, providing for the instruction of the poor, was passed by the 
parliament of Ireland ; but the fund was diverted from its purpose, 
and the measure was entirely frustrated. Proh pudor .'* 

The similarity of character between the Scots and the people of 
New England can scarcely be overlooked. That it arises in a great 
measure from the similarity of their institutions for instruction, cannot 
be questioned. It is no doubt increased by physical causes. With a 
superior degree of instruction, each of these nations possesses a coun- 
try that may be said to be sterile, in the neighbourhood of countries 
comparatively rich. Hence emigrations, and other effects on conduct 
and character which such circumstances naturally produce. This sub- 
ject is in a high degree curious. The points of dissimilarity between 
these nations might be traced to their causes also, and the whole inves- 
tigation would perhaps admit of an approach to certainty in our con- 
clusion, to which such inquiries seldom lead. How much superior in 
morals, in intellect, and in happiness, the peasantry of those parts of 
England are, who have opportunities of instruction, to the same class 
in other situations, those who inquire into the subject will speedily 
discover. "The peasantry of Westmoreland, and of the other districts 
mentioned above, if their physical and moral qualities be taken to* 
gether, are, in the opinion of the editor, superior to the peasantry of 
any part of the island.^ 



From the foregoing account of the parish establishment of Scotland, 
it will readily be perceived that the Scottish peasantry are placed un- 
der circumstances peculiarly favourable to the dissemination of know- 
ledge among them. As they receive an early education, they are ge- 
nerally intelligent, and have a taste for reading, but, being mostly in 
poor circumstances, books, to a great extent, are not within their reach. 
To provide for the general dissemination of knowledge, by books, it 
occured to me, that an excellent plan would be to adopt a system of 
public libraries, one to be established in each parish. 

I comruunicated this idea to a friend in the beginning of the year 
ISOi. He concurred witli me in opinion ; and, with a view of trying 

• " With what exeeration should the statesman be loaded" who could frustrate a. 
mea£;ure so beneficial tc society! If the statesman who neglects te provide the means 
of instruction be culpable, vhat are v, etc think i>f those who are epposed to the instruc- 
tion of the mass of the people altogether ? 

f A bill was brought into the IJritibh parliament, by Mr. Wliiibread, in 1808, to 
Biake prf'viMon for the education of the people of England. It was opposed by the 
whole tory and court ii.iiucnct of the cour.Uv, induding cvou Mr. WviidL-.w, a pre- 
tended wj.ig. 



REMARKS ON THE SCOTTISH PEASANTRY. 613 

its practicability, we digested the plan of a library to be established 
in the city of Glasgow, upon such principles that it might, with some 
modifications, be adopted throughout that, or any other country. 
The greatest difficulty we had to encounter, in putting this plan in ex- 
ecution, was in the attempt to make the property entirely public, and 
to introduce a principle by which every member of the community, in 
all time coming, might avail themsflves of the use of the library on 
the same terms as the original subscribers. We made many attempts, 
but could not get a sinsjle individual to join us, and the plan was lilce- 
ly to be abandoned, when it occurred to my friend, who was a little 
eccentric, that we could establish the library ouselves. This idea was 
adopted. We drew up and signed the regulations ; paid our entry- 
money and annual contribution, and with the amount purchased Paley's 
Natural Theology, and Lord Lauderdale's essay on Public Wealth, 
which laid the foundation of the library. My friend took the office of 
librarian, and I held all the other offices. We held regular meetings, 
and had much intellectual pleasure in superintending our infant insti- 
tution. The circumstance developed a new fact in the history of liter- 
ature, namely, that two members were sufficient to form a librar}'. 
In the course of a few weeks, we were joined by two or three more, 
and the funds they contributed were immediately laid out in the pur- 
chase of popular books, which enabled us to gratify our new subcrib- 
ers as fast as they joined us. By the month of December, the sub- 
scribers amounted to 34, and there were 40 volumes in the library. 
A general meeting was then held, and the library was formally insti- 
tuted on the tenth of that month. Another meeting was held on the 
3d of January, 1805, when office-bearers were elected, and the institu- 
tion has since prospered in a very eminent degree. Its progress for the 
first four years is exhibited in the following table. Since the year 
1808, it progress has been more rapid ; it now contains nearly .5000 
volumes of choice books, and promises to become one of the most ex- 
tensive libraries in the British islands. 

It is worthy of remark, that party politics were never known in the 
institution. 

Table of the Rise and Progress of the Glasgow Public Library. 



No. Subscribers. No vols. 



No. Subscribers. No. re/.-. 



1804. 


July 2 


2 


2 




Oct. 1 


210 


808 




Dec. 10 


34- 


40 


1807. 


Jan. 1 


240 


945 


1805. 


Jan. 3 


54 


53 




April 1 


259 


1086 




April 1 


72 


169 




July 1 


275 


1105 




July I 


126 


345 




Oct. 1 


289 


1157 




Oct. 1 


145 


439 


1808. 


Jan. 1 


313 


1961 


1S06. 


Jan. 1 


163 


487 




April 1 


317 


1453 




April 1 


173 


745 




July 1 


332 


1476 




July 1 


199 


7t2 




Sept. 16 


339 


1502 



Since 1 left the country, tKe library has been incorporated, on 
which occasion the articles were somewhat modified, and are not now 
aufficiently expressive of the original principles of the instituticm, ia 
consequence of which I have inserted the words in italics, in the fol- 
lowing abstract of the modified copy. 



614' APPENDIX, NO. iir, 

Regulations of the Glasgow Public Library, insliluied December, ISO^-. 

*' The attainmeni of man's true rank in the creation, and his present and 
future happiness, individual as xcell as public, depend on the cultivation 
and proper direction of the human Jaculties." 

To provitle the means of diffusing literature and knowledge, is an 
object of the greatest importance to society, and claims the attention of 
every f iend to mankind. 

For this purpose, it has been judged a matter of great utility, to es- 
tablish and to keep up in all time coming, a PUBLIC LIBRARY in 
THE CITY OF GLASGOW, which shall be open, under proper regulations, 
to all inclined to take the benefit of it, upon paying a small sum annu- 
ally, towards its support and increase. 

For establishing such a library, the members agree upon the fol- 
lowing 

REGULATIONS. 

L Each subscriber, upon his admission, shall pay to the treasurer 
for the time, twelve s!)iH ngs of entry-money ; and the object being the 
general dissemination nf knowledge, the entry-money shall never be rat ed. 

n. Each member shall pay an annual contribution of ten shillings 
and six-pence. Those who enter betwixt the first of January and the 
first of April, shall pay a full year's contribution; those who enter 
betwixt the first of April and the first of October, a lalf year's con- 
tribution ; and those who enter betwixt the first of October, and the 
first of January, shall be free till January. The annual contribution 
shall be paid on or before the second Wednesdoy of January yearly, 
nnd those, who fail to do so, shall not have any right to the use of 
the library till it is paid. Such members as may be under the n*.'ces- 
sity of leaving the place, shall, on their return, be entitled to the use 
of the library, on paying the annual contribution for the year then 
current, and exigible from those members^ Should any person who 
has been a member for five years, become unable to pay the annual 
contribution, he will be entitled to the use of the library gratis. The 
curators for the time will be judges of such claims. 

HI. Such as wish at any time to become members of this institution, 
shall pay the entry-money and annual contribution, in terms of the forego- 
ing article, to the treasurer, who will give a receipt, and, upon producing 
it to the librarian, he is empowered to add his name to the list of subscri- 
bers, and admit him a member accordingly. Tlie right of a member to 
the use of tlie library may be transferred to any other person, upon 
Kuch member sending a letter to that effect to the treasurer, and the 
person, to whom the transfer is made, paying two shillings and six- 
pence in name of entry money. 

IV. The funds to be raised in virtue of this institution, shall, after 
defraying the necessary expences, be applied in purchasing books of 
approved merit only. Of these a judgment will be formed by a ma- 
jority of the members, at each general meeting. But no purchase 
shall at any time, be made, to a greater extent than the funds in hand 
are sufficient to pay. 



INSTITUTION OF THE GLASGOW PUBLIC LIBRARY. 615 

V. The property of the library shall be, and the same is hereby 
vested in the members in trust, for tlie purposes of the institution, 
the title whereof shall be, "The Glasgow Public Library, insti- 

TUED IN THE YEAR IHC^." 

• VI. There shall bj four general meetings annually, viz. on the first 
Wednesday of January, the tirst Wednesday of April, the first Wed- 
nesday of July, and the firnt Wednesday of October. Intimation of 
the place and hour of such meetings, sliall be sent to each member by 
the secretary or librarian, three days before the meetings take place. 
Extraordinary general meetings upon special aiFairs may, in like man- 
ner at an} time be called by the curators, who shall also be obliged 
to call such meetings within eight days after a written request to that 
effect is made to them, by any 12 of the members. 

VII. The management of this institution shall be vested in a com- 
mittee, consisting of nine curators, a treasurer, secretary, and libra- 
rian ; of whom four shall at all times be a quorum. The election 
shall take place at the general meeting, on the Hrst Wednesday of Janu- 
ary, yearly, by a majority of the members then a&^embled. The thret- 
curators wlio are tlen at the head of the list, shall go out of the office, 
and three others shall be elected in their place, and added, in thcr 
order of tiieir election, to tlic foot of the list. Th^ presiding curator 
shall put the question, wiiicli of the members shall be first elected one 
of the three curators; and fVom the person so elecred, he shall, either 
in presence of the meeting, or at the first subsequent meeting of tht; 
curators, take a solemn promise, that he will discharge the duties of 
his office with fidelity. And in like manner the election of the second 
and third curators, of the treasurer, secretary, and librarian, shall be 
conducted. When a vacancy occurs in the curacy, it siiall be filled 
up by the members at the next general meeting, and the person or per- 
i!ons so elected, shall, in the order of their election, be added to tlie 
loot of the list of curators. The offices of treasurer and secretary, 
may be vesteil in one or two persons, as the meeting may think pr. - 
per, who, with the librarian, may be continued at pleasure. At all 
meetings, the ■first curator shall be present ; in the absence, the next 
curator, and so on to the last; in tue absence of all the curators, the 
treasurer ; and in his absence, the eldest member pre.'sent. 

Vill. The treasurer shall have the management of the society's 
funds, and the secretary of the minutes and correspondence, and both 
offices shall be purely honorary. The librarian, who is also under se- 
cretary, shall have the management of the books of the library, sul- 
iect to the rules n:iaue, or to be made, by the meuibcrs for its govern- 
ment, and may or may not have a salary, as circumstances snail d.- 

IwCt. 

iX. A meetingof the committee shall be h.dd on theWcdnesdavs pre- 
vious to each general meeting, vvlien the treasurer bhafl lay a state of 
his transactions before them, for tlie purpose of bLitig audited and set- 
tled, and the baltmce in his hands ascertained. They will then in- 
form thenjsel>es of tlie state of the library, and make out a report 
thereon, to be laid before the general meeting, togetiiar with a list of 
such buoks as they would leeommeiid for the use of the library. And 
tlie better to enable thern to prepare such list, every uicmber is invited 
to lodge with tlie librarian, before the committee nieeting$ take place, 
a. memorandum of such bjoks, not exceeJin'r live in liu-iibLT; a, meet 



616 APPEKDIX, Kd. III. 

his approbation. The committee shall also cause a list of the mem- 
bers to be made up eight days previous to the general meeting, on the 
first Wednesday of January, yearly, which list shall be entered in a 
book kept for the purpose, signed by the secretary, and shall, if re- 
quired, be produced at every general meeting. To that list shall be 
added the names of those who, during the year, have become members 
of the institutioa, and from it the names of those who die, rcaign, or 
forfeit their right, shall be delated. 

The first curator and secretary shall have power to call a meeting of 
the committee, as often as they maj' think necessary, of which the 
Secretary shall give proper notice to all the members, the day before 
such meetings take place ; and it shall be incumbent on every member 
to attend, or to send a written excuse to the satisfaction of the meet- 
ing. But if any meinhcr neglect to attend, or to send an excuse for 
two successive meetings, he shall be held as having resigned his office. 

X. At each quarterly general meeting, a report of the proceedings 
of the committee sliall be laid before the members for their considera- 
tion. The list of books previously prepared by the committee, shall 
albO be laid before them, from which they shall make a selection, with 
any additions they may judge proper, and give orders to the treasurer 
which to purchase accordingly. 

XI. A majoiity of two-ihirds of the subscribers, at any general 
meeting assembled, may apply to the crown for a charter of incorpo- 
ration, or to the provost, magistrates, and town-council of the city of 
Glascow, for a seal of cause, in confirmation of these regulations. 

The society reserve the power of adding to, altering, or amending 
these regulations. But no such additions, alterations, or amendments 
*.hall be made, unless a specific motion in writing is made, seconded, 
and entered upon the minutes, at a general meeting of the society. 
And, in order to allow the members time to deliberate on the proprie- 
ty of such additions, alterations, or amendments, thus made and se- 
conded, the consideration thereof shall not be resumed until the quar- 
terly meeting, occurring three months thereafter, and if approved of 
by two-thirds of the members present at such quarterly meeting, th^ 
same shall thenceforward become a law of the society. But it is de- 
dared that no lato shall ever he passed to dissolve the society, or to pre- 
vent the public at large Jrom participotiner in its advantages, hy raising 
the entry-moiiejj. 

JOULES FOR THE LIBRARIAN. 

I. The librarian shall keep the key of the library, and have the 
custody of the books, for which he siiall be accountable. When he 
enicis on his charge, he shall receive an exact catalogue of the books, 
subscribed by the treasurer and five of the curators, which shall He in the 
library ; and a copy of this catalogue, subscribed by the librarian, witU 
an acknowledgment of his having received the books therein, shall be 
lodged with the treasurer. 

II. Each subscriber shall be entitled to receive from the librarian, 
and have in his possesssion at one time, only, one volume of folio, or 
of quarto : or two volumes in any one book of octavo and under : but 
when any book consists of one volume, he shall be entitled to that 
volume onJv. 



ON THE BRITISH AND AMERICAK TRADX. 617 

III. Books in folio maybe kept out of the library six weeks at a time; 
In quarto, four weeks ; in octavo and under, two weeks. A single num- 
ber of any book, review, or magazine, four days only. 

IV. If any subscriber detain a book beyond the time specified, he 
must pay a fine of three-pence for every week the book is so detained, 
and for a less time in proportion ; and he can have no other book from 
the library till the former be returned, and the fine paid. 

V. If any subscriber shall lend, or suffer to be lent out of his house or 
family, any book or pamphlet belonging to the library, he shall forfeit 
two shillings and six-pence for the first offence, five shillings for the se- 
cond, and if guilty of a third, he shall forfeit all right to the library. 

VI. If a subscriber lose a book, he must pay the value of it; or if a 
volume of a set be lost, that set must be taken and paid for. If any book 
be injured beyond what may be reasonably allowed for the using, it must 
be laid before the committee for their determination, and the injury be 
paid for to tbeir satisfaction. 

VII. The librarian must take a receipt, in a book to be kept for the 
purpose, for every book lent out ; but should it be inconvenient for any 
subscriber to attend in person for the purpose of granting such receipt, 
he must send a line to the librarian, who will in that case be authorized 
to subscribe for him. 

VIII. The librarian must lend out the books to the subscribers in 
the order of their application. A subscriber, after keeping a book the 
time specified, may take it out anew, provided no other subscriber has 
applied for it in the interim. 

When I was in Edinburgh, in the month of January, 1809, I inserted 
an account of the institution in the Scots Magazine, preparatory to re- 
commending the plan for parish libraries in that work. My subsequent 
operations have defeated that intention, in consequence of which I have 
introduced the subject here ; and the plan being founded on the princi- 
ples of equality, and having answered well in practice, I have no hesita- 
tion in strongly recommending it to those who may be concerned in es- 
tablishing public libraries. 

No. IV. 

Essat/ on the Trade between Britain and America. 

FOR THE AURORA. 

The inhabitants of Great Britain and the United States of America 
are so allied by consanguinity, by language, by their mutual wants, and 
by their ability to serve each other, that a commercial intercourse be 
tween them is of more importance than between any other two nations 
in the world. Circumstances of a very extraordinary nature have oc- 
curred to interrupt this commerce, and matters have of late assumed 
«uch a serious appearance that very gloomy apprehensions begin to be 
entertained that it may be entirely cut off. The great importance of the 
subject may be deduced from the manner in which it has engrossed the 
attention of all ranks of the community in both countries ; and, as might 
be expected, very many erroneous speculations are afloat upon it. In 
particular, the primary cause of the interruption has been studiously 
kept from the public view, while other causes have been alleged which 
have no existence in fact -, and many writers on both sides of the ques- 

78 



618 JLPPBNDIX, KO. IV. 

tion have not scrupled to affirm that the trade between the two coua» 
tries is of little importance. I shall in this communication take a sum- 
mary glance of the nature of this commerce, making such deductions 
as I think the subject warrants ; and I shall assign a reason for the inter- 
ruption, which I believe to be correct. 

I shall assume as a data that the exports from Great Britain to Ame- 
rica IrJive of late amounted annuall)' to about 12 millions sterling, or about 
53 millions of dollars ; and that the returns in American produce tiave 
amounted to about 5 millions sterling, or about 22 millions of dollars. 
The balance was paid to Britain by bills of exchange arising from the 
trade between America and the continent of Europe ; and the greater 
part of the carrying trade has been in American vessels. 

Now, the exports from Britain to America have consisted principally 
of manufactures, which that ingenious and industrious people have 
brought to great perfection, and can, in general, furnish on better terms 
than any other nation in the world. This arises from the manner in 
which the manufactures are organized. Particular branches have been 
brought to maturity in particular districts of country best calculated for 
carrying them on; thus — cotton manufactures in Manchester, Glasgow, 
Paisley, &c. linen manufactures in Ireland, and difterent parts of Scot- 
land; woollens in Leeds, Bury, Shrewsbury, &c. hardwai'e in Birming- 
ham, cutlery in Sheffield, hosiery in Nottingham, Leicester, &c. &c. The 
necessary divisions and sub-divisions of labour have taken place. The 
labourers are possessed ofa patient industry and a frugal economy which 
cannot be surpassed. A groat portion of the labour is performed by ma- 
chiner}', more especially since the successful introduction of ihe steam 
engine ; so that all the articles above enumerated, and many others that 
might be mentioned, can, notwithstanding the press of taxation arising 
from the dissipation of the court, be furnisi»ed in Britain on better terms 
than in any other nation whatever. Now, it is surely the interest of the 
people of Britain to dispose of as many of these manufactures as possible. 
'J hey cannot get a better market than the United States. 

It is the interest of the people of the United States to receive them, 
so long as they can apply their industry to better advantage in clearing 
and cultivating their lands, and in applying to other branches of internal 
policy. 

Again, the returns that are made to Britain are mutually advantageous. 
They clear the hands of the growers of produce here of their surplus ar- 
ticles, at fair prices ; and furnish a supply of raw materials for the manu- 
fciCtures, and of food for the manufacturers, of timber for buildings and 
machinery, of ashes for their bleachfields; to say nothing of many other 
articles of utility, convenience and luxury. 

As to the carrying part, it has been mostly in American vessels, and 
it is mutually advantageous that it should be so, for this very plain rea- 
son, that it can be done at the cheapest rate. Bi'itain being kept in a 
state of eternal warfare, her shij)piiig is of course subjected to consider- 
able sea-risk, and a consequent nicrease of freight and insurance, which 
American shipping is exempted from ; and it follows that the cheapest 
will be preferred. Just so will commerce always regulate itself, if left 
to its own operation ; and the greatest service that governments can ren- 
der it 18 '* to let it alone." L believe it may be safely affirmed that by 
being carried in American vessels during the war, American produce 
will go to the British market fiom 10 to 1^ per cent, cheaper, and Bri- 



ON TUB BRITISH, &C, 619 

tish manufactures will be carried to America from 8 to 10 per cent, cheap- 
er than in British vessels. This is, of course, a great saving to the in- 
habitants of both countries; and I wish to state this explicitly, because 
that class of men in Britain who call themselves "the shipping interest" 
have made a terrible yelping and noise about it : But why, in the name 
of common sense, should their interest, or the interest of any particular 
class, be set up in opposition to the interest of a nation? 

From this short review it is evident that tiie trade between the two 
countries has been mutually advantageous. To the inhabitants ofA- 
merica it is useful and convenient ; to those of Britain it is essentially 
necessary : it cannot be the wish of either people to stop it — reason, 
and common sense, and s^lf-interest forbid it. Whence then does the 
interruption arise? \_Here a number of the reasons tvhich have been as- 
signed are noticed ; and it is then stated .•] The true cause is to be foun<( 
in the hostility of the court of Britain. They have never forgiven A- 
merica for asserting her independence. They have considered the A- 
mericans as a divided people; and tliey have thought that by persever- 
ing in a course of steady hostility, the country would fall an easy prey. 

[I After a number of speculations on the probable changes that might 
take place, notice is taken of the dawn of hope field out by the proba- 
bility of a regency and whig ministry being appointed in Britain. Tlie 
probable steps they would pursue are glanced at, and the consequences 
to America are summed up thus : J Our trade would flourish— our good 
will towards each other, and towards our British brethren would in- 
crease — ^party distinctions would be done away — political names would 
be no longer applied as terras of reproach — we would be all federahsts — • 
\yQ would be all republicans. 



ADVICE TO E3IIGItANTS TO AMERICA. 



ThefoUotvhig extracts from a letter tvrittenbi/ Clements Bvrleigh, 
Esq. who reside/or 30 years in the United States of North America, 
'will be found useful to such persons as mean to emigrate to that coun- 
try:— - 



•* I will now proceed to give some instructions to my own country- 
men, who may hereafter emigrate to the United States of America. 
] shall first take up the poor mechanic and day labourer, next the 
farmer who may go there with money to purchase land, and next the 
merchant. 

*' I will take the liberty, as an introduction, to point out some stum- 
bling blocks that have been in the way of many emigrants to this coun- 
try. We conceive the .vessel coming to anchor, and the passengers 
preparing for going ashore. On setting their feet on land, they look 
about them, see fine houses, gardens, and orchards, the streets crowd-, 
cd with well'dressed people, every one pursuing his own business. — 
Well, the question now is, where shall 1 go ? I meet a person passing, 
and address myself to him, requesting him to inform, me, where I can 
have accommodations for some short time. He will point out a house 
which he thinks may answer my appearance, &c. I get my goods 
conveyed to this house. The landlord and his family receive me as a 
foreigner, and so long as I have cash will have a watchful eye over me, 
and treat me according to what money I spend with them. In the 
mean time, on the arrival of an Irish ship, a crov*-d of poor Irish, m ho 
have been in that country for a number of years, are always fond of 
meeting their countrymen on landing, and of encouraging them to take 
a share of grog or porter, &c. The feelings of the open-hearted Irish= 
man are alive to the invitation, and some days are spent in this way, 
in the company of men who are a disgrace to the country they came 
from, and who are utterly incapable to procure themselves work, much 
kss the poor emigrant. I warn emigrants, therefore, to be upon their 
guard. 

The plan, therefore, which I would recommend, is that upon land- 
ing, as soon as convenient, they should divest themselves of any heavy 
luggage, such as chests or boxes ; and in the mean time, if they are 
deficient of money to carry them to the inland parts of the country, 
stop some time, and if they can get work apply to it, and use what 
they earn with economy, and keep clear of all idle company, and also 
be particular in keeping clear of a certain description of their own 
countrymen. When they have acquired as much money as may help 
10 bear their expences, let them put their bundles on board one of the 
VRggons, loaded with merchandize for ihe Western country. By be* 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 621 

ing active and obliging to the carrier on the way, he will charge little 
or nothing on your arrival at Pittsburg, or Greensburg, or any other 
town in the western parts of Pennsylvania. You then take your pro- 
perty from aboard of the waggon, if it suits, and make inquiry for 
labour. The best plan would be to engage a year with some opulent 
farnaer, for which period of service, you will receive 100 dollars, and 
during that time be found in meat, drink, washing, and lodging. This 
will be an apprenticeship that will teach you the work of tlie country, 
such as cutting timber, splitting fence rails, and other work that is not 
known in Ireland. Be temperate and frugal, and attend worship on 
Sundays with your employer's fiamily. This will keep you clear of a 
nest of vipers, who would be urging you to go to tippling-houses with 
them, to drink whiskey, and talk about Ireland. At tha expiration of 
the year, if your employer is pleased with your conduct, he will not be 
willing to part with you, and will enter into engagements vvith you, which 
is often done in the following way, viz He will point out to you a cer- 
tain number of fields to be cultivated, some to be under wheat, others in 
rye, Indian corn, oats, &c. ; he will find horses, and farming uten- 
sils, and furnish boarding, washing, and lodging, during that year, 
and when the harvest is taken off the ground, he has two-thirds for his 
share, and you have one- third. Your shai-e of wheat, rye, Indian 
corn or any other produce of the ground, which you have farmed ii» 
this way, you will always meet a ready market for. It is true, you 
must attend early and late to your work, and do it in a neat, tarmiog- 
likc manner. Pursuing this plan of industry a few years, you may sav£ 
as much money as will purchase 150 acres of land in the state of Ohio, 
or the Indiana territory, or any other part of these new slates. It i,s> 
necessary to guard against imposition in the title, as titles are very un- 
certain in some places. When you are now possessed of a farm of 
land in fee simple, clear of all rents and annuities for ever, the next 
thing to be done, is to clear tlie land of the timber, which is done in 
the following manner : — First of all, the underwood has all to be taken 
up by the root, with a maddock : this is called grubbing ; every sap- 
ling less than four inches in diameter must be taken out, and piled up in 
heaps and burned. Wlien this is done, you commence cutting down the 
timber, the straightest of which, after being cut down, is measured off 
in lengths of 11 feet, so far as the body of the tree will admit, and cut 
and split into rails of about 4 inches in diametei", for the purpose of enclo- 
sures. All other timber is cut down and raised up in hoa[»s and burned, or 
hauled off the ground. You next commence buildiug your fence, by lay- 
ing three rails horizontally on the ground, witli one end resting on the 
other, in a zigzag manner, forming obtase angles. A good fence re- 
quires to be at least 7 rails high. When this is done, you may then 
enter with the plough, and plant your Indian corn, or wheat, or what- 
ever you mean to plant in the field. It is now that every stroke you 
strike is for your own advantage, as you are lord of this property. A 
log-house and barn are easily built — ^your neighbours will come te* 
miles to help you, as they will expect like favours from you in return 
Eachyearyou may at least clear 8 or 10 acres, and in the space of 10 ui 
1 2 years, you may take your ease. This is pointing out to you the patfo 
that industrious men have pursued, who now live rich and indep>;ndei»i. 
— And I am confident, that in America, without the most close ap- 
plication to labour; and using frugality, laud is not attained, by tli,Qsim 



f)2t ADVICK TO EMIGRANTS. 

who emigrate to that country destitute of funds. I am convinced al- 
most to a certainty, that out of 20 emigrants from Ireland to the Unit- 
tcd States, 15 have not been able to procure one foot of land ; but this 
is owing to their own bad management. — In many instances they are 
often grossly deceived by false information, relative to that country, 
painting to them advantages that never existed, and when the poor dis- 
appointed emigrant lands on the American shore, he finds his golden 
views have taken flight. He spends his time in brooding over his mis- 
fortunes till his money is gone, and then he must work or starve ; and 
in the cities, there is always a number of poor emigrants, that will not 
go into the countr)'. The streets are often crowded with the.u looking 
for work, so thr»t it is very hard to obtain work for a stranger that is 
rot known. The last resource is to engage to work upon the turnpike 
roads. — Here the labourer will get one dollar per day, and must find 
himself meat, drink, washing, and lodging. Here he has for compan- 
ions the most abandoned drunken wretches that are in existence, and 
whose example he must follow, or be held in derision by them. The 
da3''8 work is tasked, and if not accomplished, his wages are docked ; 
this sort of labour, and that of working at furnaces and forges, em- 
ploys a great number of Irishman. I have known many hundreds of 
them who have wrought in this way for more than SO years, who at this 
moment cannot put a good coat on their back, and now are old, in- 
firm, and past labour. 

" It may be objected by some, that it is dangerous to go to the fron- 
tier country, on account of the Indians, wild beasts, &c. ; this is no 
more than a scare-crow. Indians in time of peace are perfectly inof- 
fensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If you call at 
one of their huts, you are invited to partake ©f what they have — they 
even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they viere starv- 
ing themselves, and while you remain with them you arc perfectly safe, 
as every individual of them would lose their lives in your defence. 
This unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with 
that degree cf justice and tenderness, which people calling themselves 
Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have 
been forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them 
a compensation, and in their wars with the people of the United States, 
the most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I 
myself fought against them in two campaigns, and was witness to 
scenes, a repetition of which would chill the blood, and be only a mo- 
nument of disgrace to peeple of my own colour. 

" Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians duringthe time of peace, 
need not alarm tlie emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to 
him, as idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more 
to dread from these people of his own colour, than from the Indians, 

" I have now given my advice to the poor single man — I shall offer 
some remarks to the poor man who has a family, and wishes to establish 
himself in the country. First, on landing, make no stay in the sea-[»ort,_ 
but as soon as circumstances will permit- (as I hinted before,) sell off 
every thing that you can possibly spare, and by attending tiie horse- 
market, you may purchase a low priced horse, which you may convey 
your effects on ; and if you have more than it is convenient for him to 
carry, you will always find farmer's waggons going bac't. into the coun- 
try, that will carry it for you. When you arrive in the w steru country, 



ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. C23 

your best way to act, would be to apply to some wealthy man, who 
owns large qviantities of land, and enter into an engagement with him, 
on a lease of improvements — he will give land seven years on the fol- 
lowing terras ; — that is, you are obliged to clear 50 acres of tillable 
land, and ten acres of meadow, build a log-house and barn, and all you 
make off the land is your own. I have known many, v.ho at the ex- 
piration of the term had decently maintained tiieir fumilies, and had 
put up L^evcn or eight hundred dollars, arising from the sale of grain 
and cattle, and were able to move further back and purchase land, as I 
have before mentioned ; and now, likely, your little family is grown up, 
and able to render you a great assistance, clearing your land, and en- 
abling you to be comfortable in the evening of life. 

" 5ly advice to mechanics is, to push back, and take residence in 
some of the inland towns ; and as new counties are every year divid- 
ing off, and towns pitched upon to be the seat of justice for these 
counties, work for all kinds of mechanics is plenty, and money suffi- 
cient may soon be earned, to purchase a lot in one of these towns, 
where you may, in a short time, be enabled to build a house on 3'our 
own propert)', and have no rent to pay. In these towns you will have 
an opportunity of educating your children, and putting them to trades 
at a proper time. But I am sorry to say, most of the tradesmen would 
suffer cold and hunger, even death itself, rather than go from New 
York or Philadelphia, into the country. 

There is a number of young men who leave Ireland and go to Ameri- 
ca, intending to be clerks or merchants. Of all classes of people, I 
can give these the least encouragement. We have ten people of this 
description, where we cannot get employment for one, particularly at 
this time, when all kinds of trade in the United States are at so low an 
ebb. 

" I will now take notice of the man who emigrates to America, and 
has money with him, and means to become a farmer. First, it is neces- 
sary to mention the price of land. . East of the mountains, good land 
will not be bought under from 80 to 1 20 dollars per acre, v/here there 
are good improvements — other lands may rate from j dollars to a higher 
amount, according to the quality of the land, and the improvements 
made thereon. Land at a lower rate than this, is not an object of pur- 
chase, as the soil is so thin and poor, that a living cannot be made on it, 
without manuring every other year with dung or plaster of Paris. V/est 
of the mountains, in all the old settlements, land may be bought from 
80 dollars per acre to two dollars. In the state of Ohio, and other 
new countries, very good land may be bought at two dollars per acre, 
but this land is in a state of nature, and far distant from any inhabi- 
tants. I am well acquainted with people who are improving plantations, 
that are six miles distant from their nearest neighbour. This, however, 
tliey conceive no inconvenience, as their neighbour's cattle do not trou- 
ble them, and the pea vine and pasture in the woods are so luxuriant, 
added to a short mild winter, that they have it ia their power to raise 
any quantity of horses, horned cattle, hogs, i;c. which they please ; 
these animals will provide for themselves during the year, without any 
attention being paid to them, except giving them salt once a week, and 
when old enough to sell, tliey alwa^'s meet with a good market — but 
this continues only a few years, as neighbours are daily settling around, 
and in a short tune the pasture in the woods is cut down, and the cattle 
must be- taken into the fields, and fed during the winter. 



62i ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 

A gooil market is always to be had in these new countries, on ac- 
count of emigrants settling, who want all that the farmers have to spare ; 
so that the first settlers always have the advantage, and commonly 
become rich men. All lands purchased in this country are in fee simple, 
and clear of all rent and annuities for ever. 

" As to mercantile men emigrating to this part of the world, they 
have their own difficulties as well as others. If they open in the whole- 
sale way, they have commonly to give six months credit to country 
merchants, who make their purchases generally every fall and spring ; 
that is, what they purchase in the spring is payable in the fall — and that 
bought in the fall payable in the spring ; though it is seldom that these 
engagements are punctually fulfilled, and riders and collectors are al- 
ways out dunning, and often bringing suits at law, for the recovery of 
their money — Goods are generally sold at a large profit, when bought 
on credit, and if the merchant has a capital to support him, and forms 
a connexion with punctual country merchants, he is in a fair way to do 
well. 

" I shall now make a few general remarks. — The description I have 
been making of America, is confined to the United States. Upper and 
Lower Canada belongs to the British Government, as also Nova Scotia. 
Since the peace of 1783, many hundreds of families have sold their land 
in the Northern States, and went into Upper Canada, and there obtained 
titles from the English Government, for lands of the first quality, hav- 
ing to pay only a mere tritle; and it is well known that at least three- 
fourths of the inhabitants of Upper Canada are composed of emigrants 
from the United States, or the descendants of such. The question will 
be asked, what is the 'reason that people living under a republican form 
cf goverment, should transplant themselves, and take refuge under a 
monarchical ? 

' There are several reasons that may be assigned. First, during the re- 
volution, a number of royalists, whose property was confiscated by the 
Government cf the United States, removed to Upper Canada, and ob- 
tained land from the British Government. The descendants of these 
people now occupy these lands, and are in easy circumstances. Ano- 
ther reason is that the land in tlie Eastern States is generally poor thin 
soil ; whereas. Upper Canada is more fertile, and land obtained for little 
or nothing, and the fleets and army of the mother country able to pro- 
tect them both at home and abroad, with full liberty of the fisheries on 
the Banks of Newfoundland, which we enjoyed a right or privilege to 
previous to the late war, but is not granted to us now. We have also 
been much curtailed in the East India trade, by the late peace with 
Great I'ritain. Another reason that may be assigned for people of the 
United States moving into Canada, is that taxes are very light in Canada, 
whereas at present in the United States taxation is heavy. Add to 
this the violent contention and party spirit that prevails, which is always 
disgusting and disagreeable to sober, industrious, well-disposed citizens, 
and ever has the tendency to weaken the force of the country. Had 
the Americans beai fully united in sentiment, as to the propiiety of the 
last war, Canada would have been taken the first campaign. Although , 
the Canadians aie very loyal, and fought with unexampled courage, yet 
they would have been overwhelmed with numbers. Since the peace, 
the emigration to Canada has been very great, and that country is set- 
tling very fast. There has also been an emigration from the Southern 
states into the Spanish province of East Florida, where f hey have settled 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS.^ 625 

themselves, and taken the oath of allegiance to the Spanish Government. 

" It is to be hoped that those feuds and animosities that have hitherto 
existed will now be shortly done away, and that the unthinking class of 
people who had urged on the war, have now suffered a disappointment, 
and been the means of loading the country with a national debt, and by 
no means have bettered their own circumstances, will be convinced of 
their error. 

" The Americans, in general, are a brave and generous people, well 
informed, hospitable, and kind; it would be, therefore, the duty of emi- 
grants when settled in that country, not to be the first to lend a hand in 
disturbing the peace of the country — it is the height of ingratitude, as 
they ought to consider that they have been received, and granted the 
rights of citizenship ; it is their duty, thereftire, to lend a hand to no- 
thing that may be injurious to their adopted country. I hope Irish emi- 
grants when .they arrive will copy after some of the rules and instruc- 
tions I have pointed out, which, if it should turn out to their advantage, 
as I hope it may, would truly be a great happiness and gratification to 
their countryman and friend, 

Clements Burleigh." 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS FROM EUROPE, 

^ho intend to make a permanent residence in the United States of Ame- 
rica i pointing out the most advantageous places of settlement, and giv- 
! ing directions Jor the best means nf preserving health. 

1 HAT hospitality which, as Mr. Jefferson says, the savages of the wil- 
derness extended to the first settlers arriving in this land, cannot be de- 
nied by a free, civilized, and Christian people, to brethren emigrating 
from the countries of their common fathers ; and the exercise of it is pe- 
culiarly agreeable to us, who have (some of us) been induced, by a >i- 
inilarity of fate and fortunes with your own, to quit the lands of our na- 
tivity, and seek freedom and happiness in America. That hospitality 
which the wild Arab never violates, and which the American Indian so 
often exercises to etrangers^; that sacred virtue is dear to our hearts, 
.which we open to address you in the frankness of friendship and since- 
rity of truth. We bid you welcome to a land ot freedom ; we applaud 
your resolution ; we commend your judgment in asserting the right of 
expatriation ; a right acknowledged and practised by people of all na- 
tions, from the earliest ages to the present time ; a right indispensable 
to liberty and happiness, and which ought never to be surrendered. 
The free states once established in Asia recognized it ; Greece adopted 
it. Emigration from thence was uncontrouled; and naturalization, which 
puts the emigrant, civilly, on a level with the native, was there a thing 
of course. The llomans avowed and vindicated the right in all its lati- 
tude ; and this memorable declaration composed part of their code : 
*♦ Every man has a right to choose the state to which he will belong." 
. It is a law of nature, that we may go whither we list to promote our 
happiness. It is thus, indeed, that the arts, sciences, laws, and civiliza- 
tion itself) have jouiiiejed, with colonies, from one region to another, 

79 



626 HINTS TO KMIGRANTS 

from Ahia and Egjpt to Europe, and from Europe to America. lu 
making this country your home, your choice does you honour; and wc 
doubt not but your conduct will be equally correct, judicious, and ho- 
nourable. That the laws and institutions of America may be from this 
moment the objects of your constant respect, we will quote what an 
European philosopher has said of America as compared, politically, with 
Europe. •• Whilst almost all the nations of Europe," says the Abbe de 
Mubly, *' are ignorant of the cunstitiK.-nt principles of society, and regard 
the people as beasts of a farm, cultivated for the benefit of the owner, 
■we are astonished, we are edified, that your thirteen republics should 
know, at once, the dignity of man, and should have drawn from the 
sources of the wisest philosophy the principles by which they are dispos- 
ed to be governed." 

Even in your state of probation here, as aliens, you will soon perceive 
that the laws (and ours is a government of laws) are made by the will 
of the people through agents called representatives. The will of a ma- 
jority passes for, and requires the consent of all. Entire acquiescence 
in the decisions of the majority is the vital principle of republics, from 
which there is no legitimate appeal ; for resistance to those decisions is 
an appeal to force, the vital principle and immediate parent of despotism. 
It is a fundamental truth in nature, and for those not held in servitude, 
it is law in America, that men are born equal, and endowed with una- 
lienable rights, of which' they can neither divest themselves, nor be de- 
prived by others. Slaves may be ruled by the will of one, or a few ; 
but freemen are governed only by the general will. 

Strangeisas you are, you may derive benefit from the counsel and 
guidance of friends. If one v»ho has gone the road you are about to 
travel, by only showing you how it winds beyond the next hill, does you 
an act of civility, how much more important would be some information 
that must influence your welfare and future fortune? And when you 
reflect that circumstances apparently trivial may make the one or mar 
the other, you will not disregard a communication which relates to the 
business of life. 

All that a first conversation with an emigrant can properly embrace, 
will fall under three heads : 

I. What relates to his personal safety in a new climate ; 

II. His interests as a probationary resident ; and 

III. His future rights and duties as a member of a free state. 
Under the first will be comprised some directions for your mode 

of iiviner, and the preservation of your health. The second w-ould de« 
maud some description of this extensive country, which may direct your 
choice and industry. Under the third should be contained a brief ab« 
stract of such civil or political matters, as behoves you to understand. 
I. Eaiigrants from Europe usually arrive here during summer, and, 
every thing considered, it is best they should ; for in the middle and 
eastern states the winter is long, i'ucl very dear, and employment compa- 
ratively scarce at that season. In winter they will expend more and 
tarn less.- But if arriving at this time bear more upon their pocket, the 
heats of the summer are undoubtedly more trying to their health. In 
tlie middle states, namely. New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and 
Maryland, a nortiiern European usually finds the cilmate intensely hot 
iroui about the middle of June until towards the first of October. The 
tker.monaeter frequently ranges iioia 8i to 90; and sometimes above it 



HINTS TO EMICRANTgJ - 627 

in the micldle part of the day ; this to a stranger who works in the 
open air, exposed to the burning sun, is certainly dangerous, and re- 
quires some precautions on his part. 

First of all, he should regulate his diet, and be temperate in the 
quantity of his food. 'Ihe American labourer or working mechanic, 
who has a better and more plentiful table than any other man in the 
world of liis class is, for the most part a small eater, and we recom- 
tnend to you his example. The European of the same condition, who 
receives meat or fii;h, and coffee, at breakfast, meat at dmner, and 
meat or fish, and tea, at supper, an abundance of animal food to which 
he was un-.ccusroined, instiUsibly falls into a state of too great repli^tion, 
which exposes him to the worst kind of fever during the heats of sum- 
mer and autumn. He should, therefore, be quite as abstemious in 
the quantity of food, as of strong drink ; and, in addition to this me- 
thod of preventing sickness, he should take a dose of active physic, 
every now and then, especially in the hotter mouths of July and Au- 
gust. By this prudent course an ardent climate will have no terrors, 
and after some residence here he may preserve his health by regimen 
and exercise alone. 

The labourer or mechanic should put off his ordinary clothes, and 
wear next his skini a loose flannel shirt, while he works ; it should be 
taken off again when he has done. 

The stranger as well aa native must be particuliarly careful not to 
drink cold water after being heated by exposure to the sun or exercise. 
Sudden and severe pain at the stomach, and even death, are frequent- 
ly the consequences of such imprudence. The hu.nane Society of 
this city has published the following directions to be observed in such 
cases ; 

1st. Avoid drinking water while the body is heated, or during pro- 
fuse perspiration. 

2d. Wash the hands and face with cold water before drioking. 

3d. If these precautions have been neglected^ and cramps or con- 
vulsions have been induced, let a tea-spoonful of laudanum be given 
immediately in a cup of spirits and water, and repeat the dose in half 
an hour, if necessary. 

4th. At the same time apply hot fomentations of spirits and water 
to the stomach and bowels, and to the lower extremities, covering the 
body with a blankef, or immerse the body in a warm bath, if it can 
be immediately obtained. 

.'Sth. Inject into the bowels a pint of warm spirits and water, mixed 
in the proportion of one part of the former to two of the latter. 

II. Do you ask by this time, with a view to the ordinary business of 
life. What is America? What sort of people may expect to succeed 
in it ? The immortal I'ranklin has answered these cjuestions . " America 
is the land of labour." But it is, emphatically, the best country on 
earth for these who will labour. By industry they can earn more wages 
here than elsewhere in the world. Our govt rnmcnts are frugal, they 
•demand few taxes ; so that the earnings of the poor man are loft to 
enrich himself; they are nearly all his own. 

Idlers are out of their element here, and the being who is techni. 
cally called a man of rank in Europe, is despicable in America. He 
must become an useful member of society, or he will find no society : 
fie will be shunned by all decenUpeople. franklin, whose sage counsel 



628 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 

is the best that can be given or observed, has said, that it is not ad- 
visable for a person to come hither " wlio has no other quality to re- 
commend him but his birth. In Europe, indeed, it may have its value, 
but it is a commodity which cannot be carried to a worse market than 
that of America, where people do not inquire concerning a stranger, 
What is he? but, IVhat can he do : If he lias any useful art, he is wel- 
come, and if he exercises it, and behaves well, he will be respected 
by all that know him. The husbandman is in honour here, and so is 
the mechanic, because their employments are useful." And the peo- 
ple," he adds, " have a saying, that ' God Almighty is himself a me- 
chanic, the greatest in the universe.' " Franklin farther illastrates the 
generality of industrious habits by the Negro's observation, that ' the 
white man makes the blackman work, the horses work, the oxen work, 
and every thing work except the hog, which alone walks about, goes 
to sleep when he pleases, and lives like a gentleman.' 

*' The only encouragement we hold out to strangers are a good cli- 
mate, fertile soil, wholesome air and water, plenty of provisions, good 
pay for labour, kind neighbours, good laws, a free government, and a 
hearty welcome. The rest depends on a man's own industry and virtue." 

It would be very prudent for new comers, especially labourers or 
farmers, to go into the country without delay, as they will save both 
money and time by it, and avoid several inconveniencies of a seaport 
town. By spending some time with an American farmer, in any capa- 
city, they will learn the method of tillage, or working a plantation, 
peculiar to this country. No time can be more usefully employed 
than a year in this manner. In that space, any smart, stout man can 
learn how woodland may be cleared, how cleared land is managed ; he 
will acquire some knowledge of crops and their succession, of usages 
and customs that ought to be known, and perhaps save something into 
the bargain. Many European emigrants who brought money with them 
have heretofore taken this wise course, and found it greatly to their ad- 
vantage ; for, at the end of the year, they knew what to do with it. 
They had learned the value of lands in old settlements and near the 
frontiers, the price of labour, cattle, and grain, and were ready to be- 
gin the world with ardour and confidence. Multitudes of poor people, 
from Ireland, Scotland, and Germany, have, by these means, together 
•with industry and frugality, become wealthy farmers, or, as they are 
called in Europe, estated men, who, in their own countries, where all 
the lands are fully occupied, and the wages of labour low, could never 
have emerged from the condition wherein they were born. 

In the west of Pennsylvania, there is a custom which the farmers 
there call cropping, and which is as beneficial to the owner as to the 
tiller of the ground, in the present state of this country. The cropper 
performs the labour of the plantation, as spring and fall ploughings, 
sowing, harrowing, or other work, and receives a certain share of the 
crop, as agreed on, for his pains. But he must be an expert farmer be- 
fore he can undertake, or be intrusted with, the working of the farm. 
None but a poor man undertakes it, and that only until , he can save 
money to buy land of his own. , 

It is invariably the practice of the American, and well suited to his 
love of independence, to purchase a piece of land as soon as he can, 
and to cultivate his own farm, rather than live at wages. It is equally in 
the power of an emigrant to do the *ame, after a ihw years of labour 



HINTS TO EMIGRANt8. 629 

and economy. From that moment he secures all the means of happi- 
ness. He has a sufficiency of fortune, without being exempt from mo- 
derate labour ; he feels the comfort of independence, and has no fear 
of poverty in his old age. lie is invested with the powers as well as 
the rights of a freeman, and may in all cases, without let or appre- 
hension, exercise them according to his judgment. He can afford to 
his children a good education, and knows that he has thereby provided 
for their wants. Prospects open to them far brighter than were his own, 
and in seeing all this he is surely blest. 

Industrious men need never lack employment in America. Labour- 
ers, carpenters, masons, bricklayers, stonecutters, blacksmiths, turn- 
ers, weavers, farmers, curriers, tailors, and shoemakers, and the use- 
ful mechanics generally, are always sure of work and wages. Stone- 
cutters now receive, in this city, (New York,) two dollars a day, 
equal to nine shillings sterling ; carpenters, one dollar and eighty- 
seven and a half cents ; bricklayers, two dollars ; labourers, from one 
dollar to one and a quarter ; others in proportion. At this time, (July, 
181G,) house-carpenters, bricklayers, masons, and stonecutters, are 
paid three dollars per day in Petersburgh, Virginia. The town was 
totally consumed by fire about a year since, but it is now rising from its 
ashes in more elegance than ever. Mechanics will find ample employ- 
ment there for perhaps two years to come. 

-Artisans receive better pay in America than in Europe, and can live 
with less exertion, and more comfort ; because they put an additional 
price on their work, equal to the cost of freight and commis.sion charg- 
ed by the merchant on importations. But there are not many of the 
laborious classes whom we would advise to reside or even loiter in 
great towns, because as much will be spent during a long winter as can 
be made through a toilsome summer, so that a man may be kept a 
moneyless drudge for life. But this is not perhaps the worst ; he is 
tempted to become a tippler, by the cheapness and plenty of liquors, 
and then his prospects are blasted for ever. In few countries is drunken- 
ness more despised than ia this. The drunkard is viewed as a person 
Bocially dead, shut out from decent intercourse, shunned, despised, or 
abhorred. The pernicious habit is to be guarded against as scrupulous- 
ly for political as moral considerations. Civil liberty every where rests 
on self respect, while degradation or voluntary debasement is one of 
the causes of despotism. These remarks are general ; we have no rea- 
son to suppose thatone people are more ignorant than another of moral 
duty or propriety. It deserves notice that two sister slates have made 
laws vesting the estate of an habitual drunkard in trustees ; and it has 
been proposed to deprive such persons of suffrage and the privilege of 
giving evidence in courts of justice. An ancient lawgiver was even 
more severe ; he affixed a double penalty to crimes committed in a state 
of intoxication. Such have been the methods of legislators to preserve 
the dignity of man. 

Men of science, who can apply their knowledge to useful and prac- 
tical purposes, may be very advantageously settled ; but mere literary 
scholars, who have no profession, or only one which they cannot profit- 
ably practise in this country, do not meet with much encouragement; 
in truth, with little or none, unless they are willing to devote them- 
selves to the education of youth. The demand for persons who will 
do this is obviously increasing : and although many excellent precep- 



C)2i) HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 

tors are every where to be found among the native Americans, there is 
still considerable room for competition on the part of well qualitieJ fo- 
reigners. In the seminaries for classical education, it is very com- 
mon to find the preceptor? natives of Ireland, and the same mav be 
said of the mathematical schools. In the southern states, where a 
thin population is spread over an extensive country, good schools are 
comparatively few ; but there are rich planters in those districts, ia 
•whose- families foreigners of genteel address and good knosvledge of the 
classics, English, and arithmetic, will Hnd employment, and a good sa- 
lary, as private tutors. It does not detract from a man's personal re- 
spectability to have been thus employed. The Americans are too wise 
to treat that condition as mean, which is essential to the 'lonour and 
prosperity of the nation, and which supposes in its professor natural 
talents and acquired knowledge. It is not unusual, in this country, to 
see young men who taught school until they had accumulated some 
property, nnd who then turn to the professions of law. physic, or di-» 
vinitv, or else become farmers or merchants. The practice and feel- 
ings of the Americans, in this particular, may be judged from the fact, 
that many gentlemen, who begin their career as schooJmasters, pass 
through all the gradations of state honours, are appointed to foreign 
embassies, promoted to the head of departments of the federal govern- 
ment, and have as good prospects as others of attaining the Presiden- 
cy. Several instances ot this nature might be quoted from this unpre- 
judiced people. 

In what part of this extensive country may an emigrant from the 
northern or western parts of Europe most advantageously settle ? If 
he be undecided until his arrival, his choice will be agreeably peiplex- 
ed or susoended by the diflFerent invitations offered by various sections 
of this empire. It covers an area betvi-een the SI st and 4'6th degrees of 
north latitude, and from the Atlantic ocean to the westward indefinite- 
liV. In time our settlements wilJ reach the borders of the Pacrhc. TJie 
productions of the soil are as various as the climate. The middle states 
produce grain of all kinds ; Maryland and Virginia afltbrd wheat and 
tobacco* North Carolina, naval stores ; and South Carolina and Geor- 
gia, rice, cotton, indigo, and tobacco : to these products, Louisiana and 
Mississippi add sugar and indigo, which are now cultivated in Georgia 
likewise. Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio are productive of 
the principal part of the foregoing stf.p:es, together with hemp, coal, 
and fcuch plants as are found in the northern and middle states, to the 
eastward of the Allegany mountains. Over this great tract, tie finest 
fruits grow in perfection ; grain of every sort is in plenty ; and *' he 
who puts a seed into the earth is recompensed, perhaps, by receiving 
forty out of it." We are of opinion tiat those parts of the United 
States between the 35th and 43d, or 37th and ^^d degrees of north 
latitude, will be found ciost congenial to the constitutions of Europe- 
ans. New- York, (principally) Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Ken- 
tucky, Ohio, Indiana, the Illinois and Missouri territories, are spread 
within these parallels. As the European is more patient of cold than 
of heat, he will be apt to prefer the middle and western, or north- 
western states to the southern. There he will form connexions with 
.inhabitants vehose manners most resemble his own. In some one of 
■hem we would advise him, after a proper examination, to pitch his 
r^nt, and fix his residence. 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 63 I 

Farther to the south, where negro slaves are the only, or principal 
labourers, some white men think it disreputable to follow the plough. 
Far be it from us to cast censure on our southern neighbours ; yet, ia 
ch(>osiriga settlement, we would have emigrants take slavery, with all 
other circumstances, into their consideration. 

It is the opinion of some judicious men, that thouc^h persons newly 
arrived ought to go without loss of time into the country, yet it would 
not bo prudent for them to retire all at once to the remote parts of 
the west ; that they ought to stop nearer the sea-board, and learn a lit- 
tle of the mode of doing business. Perhaps this, in some instances, 
may be adviseable , but we tliink that j'oung men, whose habits are 
not fixed, cannot post too speedily to the fine regions beyond the Alle- 
gany. The labourer, however, will find great difference between them 
and Europe in every thing. The man who was accustomed to the 
spade, must now use the axe; he who used to dij^ ditches, will learn to 
maul rails and make fences. These are extremes that must be met ; 
and the sooner, perhaps, the better. 

We omit annexing to these directions a table of roads ; as almanacs 
are every where to be had for a trifle, and they contain accurate lists, 
with the principal stages from east to west ;* there are also people al- 
ways willing to direct the stranger on his puth. 

If a European has previously resolved to go to the western country, 
near the Allegany or Ohio rivers, he will have saved much expense and 
travel by landing at Baltimore ; from thence to Pittsburg, at the head of 
the Ohio, is about 200 miles direct; perhaps not more than 24<0 by the 
course of the road. A few days' journey will bring him along a fine 
turnpike from Baltimore, nearly to Cumberland, in Allegany county, 
(Md.) from whence the public road, begun by the United States, 
crosses the mountains, and is to touch the Ohio at Wheeling. A smart 
fellow, in a little time, will reach Union, in Fayette county, Penn- 
sylvania. Here is a flourishing county adjoining Green, Washington, 
and Westmoreland, in any one of which may be found almost every 
thing that is desirable, and a population hospitable and intelligent. 
From Union to Pittsburg is but a day's journey. There one may as- 
cend the Allegany river to the upper couiitries ; or he may follow the 
current, and descend the Ohio to the state of that name, cross it to 
Indiana, or continue his voyage to Kentucky. He may proceed to the 
Mississippi river, and go up it to St. Louis, in the Missouri Territory, 
or he may proceed a little farther up, and ascend the Illinois river, in 
the Illinois Territory. Such arc the facilities of going by water from 
Pittsburg to various parts of the west ; 'and those states and territories 
named are among the most fertile in America. 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburg is about 300 miles, chiefly through 
a fine, plentiful, and well-cultivated country. A gentleman in Penn- 
sylvania, of high standing and information, writes to a member of this 
society : " Pennsylvania, after all, is, perhaps, the best field for Irish 
capacity and habits to act in, with prospects for a family, or for in- 
dividual reward. Lands of the finest (juality may be had in this state for 
bartly settling and remaining five years; the advantage derived from the 
tanigrant, being the encouragement of others to scLtle and purchase." 

• Meli:>b's " American Travellrr," conUiniiig neat li.sti of roads anJ much sUtis- 
iiaaA »ad topograplMual ictbrHiaticn. is a good pocket cv>u.x»anion foj (iis t.tianjcr. 



632 HINTS TO EMIGIIANTS. 

That is, by the laws of Pennsylvania, warrantees must make an actual 
settlement on the lands they claim to hold by deeds from the land-office. 
Hence, trusty persons obtain a deed for apart, on condition of clear- 
ing a certain quantity, and building a house and residing there. 

In our state, (of New York,) the advantages are great, whether we 
regard soil or situation, or roads, lakes, and rivers. Few, if any states 
in the Union, have finer land than the great western district of New 
York. It has risen exceedingly in a few years, and the price will be 
much increased as soon as the intended canal from lakes Erie and 
Champlain to the Hudson river, shall be completed. These most use- 
ful and magnificent works will probably be begun next summer, and af- 
ford, for several years to come, to uiany thousands of industrious poor 
men an opportunity of enriching themselves. If prudent, they may 
realize their earnings on the spot, and become proprietors, in fee, of 
landed estates in the beauuful country they shall have so greatly im- 
proved. 

From no other city on the Atlantic, can a person sooner reach the 
country than by means of the Hudson, and the roads that branch from 
the towns on either of its banks. Lands of good quality may still be pur- 
chased, even in the midland parts of New York, at a reasonable rate. 

As ev'jry emigrant does not mean to turn farmer, and our wish is to 
furnish useful hints to various classes, we will here, at the risk of repe- 
tition, state the ideas of a gentleman of much experience, respectability ;, 
and intelligence, concerning the pursuits of different persons. 

Those who have acquired useful trades will, in general, find little dif- 
ficulty, either in our large cities, or the towns and villages all over the 
country. There are vacancies for a large portion of thera. 

Clerks, shopkeepers, or attendants in stores, are seldom wanted ; their 
occupation is an uncertain one ; it requires some time, too, for such per- 
sons to acquire the mode of doing business with the same expertness as 
natives or long residents. In most cases a sort of apprenticeship is to 
be served ; and it would be well for persons newly arrived to engage for 
some months at low wages, with a view to procure the necessary experi- 
ence. Six months or a year spent in this manner, and for this purpose, 
will fit a man for making better use of his futureyears; and he will have no 
occasion to repent his pains : we would press this on your consideration. 

The same observations are applicable, but in a less degree, to persons 
who mean to apply themselves to husbandry. Some local peculiarities 
must be learned even by them ; tlip neglect of which would be so much 
the more inexcusable, as the knowledge may be shortly and easily 
acquired. ^ • 

Those who have money, and intend to settle here in any line of busi- 
ness, would do well to vest their funds in some public stock, or deposite 
them in a bank, until they have acquired such a knowledge of the coun- 
try, the modes of life and business, as shall enable them to launch into 
trade, commejce, or manufactures, with safety. STo loan money secure- 
ly, needs great care. It has been often seen that persons arriving in A- 
merica with some property, lose it before they prosper in the world. 
The reason of which is that, in the first place, they begin some kind of 
business without knowing how to conduct it ; and, in the next, that, 
with less skill, they are less frugal and industrious than their competitors. 
it is e<iually observable, that personi who arrive here with little to d«- 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 633 

pend on besides their personal exertions, become prosperous at last ; for 
by the time they have earned some money in the employ of others, 
they will have learned there, likewise, how to secure and improve it. 

The delay here recommended is all important and necessary. No- 
thing can be more ruinous to strangers in this country than headlong 
haste in those plans and arrangements on which their future fortune en- 
tirely depends. Many a fatal shipwreck has been occasioned by preci- 
pitation ; and many are they who can from sad experience bear witness 
to this truth. Knowledge of modes and methods must be acquired be- 
fore we think of hazarding, or dream of acquiring money. A man igno- 
rant of the use of the sword might as well fight a fencing master with 
that weapon, as an unexperienced stranger enter the lists in business 
with these who are adepts in their trade. But in giving admonition, let 
us not be thought to present discouragements ; a little pains and ob- 
servation will qualify a man of sense to judge, and the example of men 
here, in this or that occupation, is well worth regarding. The people 
of this country are cast in a happy medium, at once liberal and cau- 
tious, cool in deciding, and ardent in performing; none exceed them 
in acuteness and discernment, and their conduct is generally a pattern 
that may be followed %vith advantage. 

III. Before any ot!)er step towards forming a settlement, the stran- 
ger should take the proper measures for acquiring citizenship : and the 
advantages of this are important and obvious, independently of its con- 
ferring political privileges. Without it you will remain exempted, in- 
deed, by mild laws, from wrong ; but destitute of some valuable positive 
rights. The alien, in most of the states, is not entitled to hold any lands, 
can obtain no office under the state, nor participate in the shipping in- 
terest of the country. 

It is fat the emigrant should be distinctl}-^ apprized, (for It will con- 
ciliate his attachment and gratitude to the country of his adoption, ) 
that no where in the world is a well-conducted foreigner received into 
the bosom of the state with equal liberality and readiness as in Ame- 
rica. When on the 4th of July, 1776, the Congress unanimously adopt- 
ed a Declaration of Independence, and delivered their country from the 
dominion of the king of England, this was one of the complaints alleged 
against him : " he has endeavoured to prevent the population of these 
states ; for that purpose obstructing the laws for naturalization of fo- 
reigners " The same liberal feeling has prevailed in the government 
of the United States, from that memorable day to this, with one excep- 
tion — during J;he administration of President Adams. The stranger, 
however, ift certainly exposed to incidents which may lead him to doabt 
the truth of this assertion. He may light upon an ignorant, a preju- 
diced, or illiberal wretch, who will manifest an ill will towards him be- 
becausehe is a foreigner, and perhaps revive British and royalist's taunts 
in a new form; but these, the scum of a country, are totally insignifi- 
cant, compared with the mass of the people. The best men in America 
have always been ready to welcome the valuable emigrant — the stranger 
of moral and industrious habits. An author, eminent as a statesmsn, a 
scholar, and philosopher, speaking, in his Discourse to the Philosophical 
Society of New York, of the advantages which Cicero boasted that 
Rome had derived from Athens, adds : 

" We are perhaps more favoured in another point of view. Attica was 
peopled from Egypt, but we can boast of our descent from a superior 

80 



63^ MINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 

stock. I speak not of families or dynasties ; I refer to our origin from 
those nations where civilization, knowledge, and refinement have erect- 
ed their empire, and where human nature has attained its greatest per- 
fection. Annihilate Holland, Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Ger- 
many, and what would become of civilized man ? This country, young as 
it is, would be the great Atlas remaining to support the dignity of the 
■world. And perhaps our mingled descent from various nations mayhave 
a benign influence upon genius. We perceive the improving etfects of an 
analogous state, upon vegetables and inferior animals. The extraordi- 
nary characters the United States have produced may be, in some mea- 
sure, ascribed to the mixed blood of so many nations flowing in our veins; 
and it may be confidently said that the operation of causes, acting with 
irresistible effect, will carry in this country all the improvable facul- 
ties of human nature to the highest state of perfection.'* 

You will, however, observe that the privilege of citizenship is no» 
granted without proper precautions ; to secure that,, while the worthy 
are admitted, tue uuworihy should, if practicable, be rejected. You 
will from hence deduce the importance of good moral habits, even to 
tie acquisition of political rights. 

The ste{)8 t»» be taken by a foreigner preparatory to, and for the pur- 
pose of his being naturalized, are those : 

1st. He must, at least five years before he can be admitted a citiz«B. 
of the United States, report himself at the office of one of the courts of 
record, within the state or territory where he may be ; and in that re- 
port set forth his name, birth-place, age, nation, and prior allegiance, to- 
gether with the country which he has left to come into theUnited States* 
and the place of his intended settlement. In general, forms of this re- 
j)ort will be furnished by the clerk of the court, who will also give a 
tertificate under the seal of the court, that the report has been made and 
liled. This certificate must be carefully kept, for the purpose of being 
produced at the time of application fur admifsion to citizenship. 

This step of reporting one's arrival is indispensable, end ought to be 
taken as soon as possible, because the five years of probation begin to 
be counted only from the date of the report ; and the time which ^ 
foreigner may have previously spent in the country cannot be rendered 
©f any service towards his naturalization. 

2d. At least three years before the alien can be naturalized, he must 
appear before some one of the courts of record, within the state or ter-- 
ritory where he may be, and there declare, on oath, or affirm, that it 
is in good faith his intention to become a citizen of the United States, 
to renounce, for ever, all allegiance and fidelity to any sovereign prince, 
potentate, state, or sovereignty, whatever ; and particularly, by name, 
to the prince, potentate, state or sovereign, whereof he may, at the time, 
be a citizen or subject. This oath or affirmation, which must have 
been made at least three years before admission to citizenship, may be 
made at any convenient time after the report of arrival. Indeed, itia 
tohjctimes made on the same day, so as to save trouble and prevent dis- 
rppointment from future negligence or forgetfulness. For another rea- 
son, that will be presently pointed out, the sooner it is done the safer 
and the better. The clerk of the court also gives a certificate that 
this oath or affirmation has been duly made, which, like the former, 
must be carei'uUy kept for the purpose of being produced at the time of 
Hpplying for naturalization. 



HINTS TO ZMTGSANTS. 



635 



S At this period the applicant, after producing both those certifi- 
cates, must declare on oath, or affirmation, before some one of the same 
courts, that he will support the constitution of the United States. He 
must also satisfy the court, (which cannot be done by the applicant 
himself, and is usually done by the affidavits of two respectable citi- 
zens, who know and can testify to the facts,) that he has resided with- 
in the United States five years at least, and within the state or terri- 
tory where he applies to be admitted, at least one year, and that» 
during such time, he has behaved as a man of sjood moral character, 
attached to the principles of the constitution of jJie United Statfis, 
and well disposed to the good order and happiness of the same. The 
clerk will thereupon make out a certificate of naturalization, under the 
seal of the court, which should be carefully kept, and ready to be pro- 
duced whenever it may be requisite. 

The liberality of congress has extended the benefits of this admis- 
sion to citizenship, beyond those who perform these requisites; for 
the children of a person so naturalized, being under age, and dwell- 
ing in the United States at the time of their parent's naturalization, al- 
so become citizens. And, still further, if any alien who shall have re- 
gularly reported himself, and made oath or affirmation declaratory of 
his intentions, (which, as we have seen, must precede his own admis- 
sion by three years,) should unfortunately die before he was actually 
naturalized, his widow and children would thenceforth be considered as 
citizens of the United States, and be entitled to all rights and privileges 
38 such, upon taking the oaths prescribed by law. This provision, 
therefore, furnishes a very strong inducement for losing no tin;e in 
taking the oath declaratory of the party's intention, 

(No. 1) 

Report of nn Alien, made of 

himself to the Cleric of the Supreme Court rf Judicature, for the 
^iate of Nevi- York, in the City of New- York, the day of 

07ie thousand einrkt hundred aiid 



Nanae. 


Place 

of Age. 
Birth, j 


Nat!«n. 


Allegiance 


Country 
from whence 
he emigrates. 


Piitfe of his 

intended 

settlement. 




1 








^. 



J certify the foregoing to be a true copy of the original Raport and Registry re- 
maining in my office, in the City of New- York, as Clerk of tlie supreme 
Court of the State of New- York. In testimony whereof tke Seal of the 
said Court is hereto affixed, this day of one thousand 

eigkt hundred aiid and in the ye»»' of the indcpoR 

^nce of the United Satfs. 

'! derh 



G36 hints to emigrants. 

(No. 2.) 

I hereby certify, that on this day of in the year of our Lord 

one thousand eight hundred and 

rf the city of New- York, appeared in tlie Court 

of Common Pleas, caSied the Mayor's Court, of the city of New- York, and then and 
there took and subscribed an oath of his intention to become a citizen of the United 
States, and to renounct> for ever all allegiance and fideUty to any foreign prince, poten- 
tate, state, or sovereignty whatever, and particularly to 

in conformity to an act of tjhc Congress of the United States, in 
that case made and provided. 

Clerk. 
(No. 3.) 
Oath of Allegiance. 
City and County of New-Y^ork, ss. I, do make oath, foi* 

affirm) on the Holy Evangelists of Almighty God, that I will support the Constitu- 
tion of the United States, and that I do absolutely and entirely renounce and abjure all 
allegiance and fidelity to any foreign prince, potentate, state or sovereignty whatever, 
and particularly to whereof I am a subject. 

(No. 4.) 
Certificate of Citizenship 
United ^States of America. District cf 
Be it recommended, that a stated District C^ourt of the United States, held for the 
district of New York, at the city of New York, on the day of in the 

year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and at present of 

the city of New York, came into court, and applied to the said court te be admitted 
to become a citizen of the United States of America, pursuant to the directions of the 
act of the congress of the United States of America, entitled " An act to establish a 
uniform rule of naturalization, and to repeal the act heretofore passed on tJiat subject : 
jtnd also to an act entitled an act in addition to an act entitled An act to establish an 
uniform rule of naturalization, aud to repeal the the acts heretofore passed on that sub- 
ject." And the said having thereupon produced to the court such evi- 
dence, and made such declaration and renunciation as is by the said acts required j 
thereupon it was considered by the said court, that the said 

be admitted, and he was accordingly admitted by the said court, 
to be a citizen of the United States of America. 

In testimony ^vhereof the seal of the said court is hereunto affixed. 

Witness, the Honourable Esq. judge 

of the said court, at the city of New York, this day of 

in the year of the Independence of 

the United States. 

Clerk of the District of New York. 

In the interval between the emigrant's choosing a place of abode, 
and completing the five years of probationary residence, which must 
fclapse before he can become a citizen of the United States, he will do 
well to familiarize himself with the state oi parties, and acquire a cor- 
rect knowledge of our constitutions of civil government. He will 
become a respectable and capable citizen in proportion to his infor- 
mation and virtue. Liberality and justice are the leading principles 
of our government, which as it secures liberty and property, neither 
makes nor suffers religious distinctions. 

No emigrant ought to stay one week in the coutitry without en • 
deavouring to procure the Constitution of the United States, and, at 
least, that of the state in which he means to reside. The Federal 
Constitution, and those of the several states, are printed and bound 
together in a neat pocket volume, with the Declaration of Independ- 
ence, and form a political Bible, well deserving the study ot every 
retiecting republican. 



The greater part of our state coastitutlons were formed soou after ) 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 637 

ttie declaration of Independence was proclaimed by Congrdss. By 
them are regulated the internal local relations of citizdns in each 
state ; they constitute the main guards of our freedom. The general 
government (whose constitution was formed by delegates from twelve 
states, assembled in Convention at Philadelphia, in 17 S7) has the 
sole direction of our foreign affairs, and the mutual relations of the 
states. The government of the United States is administered by a 
President and Vice-president, elected for four years ; by a senate, of 
two members from each state, elected for six years; by a house of 
representatives, chosen for two years, by the people; and by judges, 
&c. appointed according to law. The senators are elected by the 
states, and this feature of the Constitution is deemed Federal ; the 
representatives are elected by the people, and here the Constitution 
is more particularly national. 

In each of the states there is a governor and two legislative branches 
chosen by the people, or their representatives, according to eacli con- 
stitution. The governor, in each state is, by virtue of his ofBco, com- 
mander in chief of the militia of the same. 

When the Federal Constitution was formed, it was laid before the 
people, who, in eacii state, chose a convention to adopt or reject it. 
It was debated, in every convention, with uncommon ardour ; and, 
finally, adopted in 1788. The speeches made on those occasions shed 
streams of light on the science of government, and its just division of 
of powers ; neither foreigners nor natives can read them too carefully. 

During the discussion of the Federal Constitution, advocates of some 
of its most federative provisions were called Federalists; their oppo- 
nents anti-Federalist. But when it was adopted, it became the law to 
all, and was in all its parts sincerely agreed to by all ; those opposite 
terms, therefore, ceased to be properly applicable any longer. Yet 
a political party seized hold of the epithet, which was merely occa- 
sional, and have made it perpetual. They are called Federalists to 
this day, without any reference to the origin of the term ; the oppo- 
site party are known as Republicans or Democrates, terms significant 
of their attachment to popular government. The Federal party, on 
the Contrary, or to speak more correctly, many of their leaders, are 
thought to have a leaning towards aristocracy. 

We ought never to be the slaves or dupes of mere names ; and it 
will become the duty of a good citizen to act with one party or the 
other, as far as he thinks its means more honouraljle, and its objects 
more just. 

When the Federal party were in power, a law was passed author- 
izing the President of the United States to send friendly aliens out of 
the countrj^ on mere suspicion, without the intervention of judge or 
jury ! This is remembered as the Alien Act. Moreover, citizenship 
could not be then acquired without a previous residence of fourteen 
years. 

On tiie 4th of March, ISOl, a Democratic administration came into 
pow er ; President Jefferson having been chosen instead of Mr. Adams. 
The acts of the goverment soon manifested a more liberal spirit. Tha 
following passage, from Mr. Jefierson's message to Congress, Decem- 
ber Sth, 1801, had its influence on, or harmonized with, the general 
opinion as to the impolicy (to jay the least) of the inhospitable act;^ 
Yvhich we havejast mentioned: 



6SS HINTS TO BMIGRANTS. 

" I cannot omit recommending a revisal of the laws on the subject 
of naturalization. Considering the ordinarary chances of human life, 
a denial of citizenship, under a residence of fourteen years, is a denial 
to a great proportion of those who ask it, and controuls a oolicy pusued 
Irom their first settlement, by many of the states, and still believed of 
consequence to their prosperity, &c. &c. The constitution, indeed, 
has wisely provided that, for admission to certain offices of important 
trust, a residence shall be required sufficient to develope character 
and design. But might not the general character and capabilities of 
a citizen bo safely communicated to every one manifesting a bona fide 
pU!-pose of embarking his life and fortunes permanently with us.?" 

Let us not be suspected ofindulging in narrow prejudices, of inflam- 
ing party feelinos, or say iag that one set of politicians are exclusively 
the friends of aliens, another, entirely hostile ; we have given you 
specimens of the policy of each. The sentiments of Mr. Jefferson, just 
citied, reflect great credit on his head and heart. So far, however, 
from inviting aiicng to plunge into politics, we dissuade them 
from it. It is ilvAc duty to be modest oliservers of parties and prin- 
ciples ; it is their part to form correct opinions, but not t© meddle ; 
to see, but not to touch : to look on, but not to interfere, until, hav- 
ing been five yeflrs spectators of the busy and important movements of 
a nation of freemen, they may become actors in their turn, under the 
solemn obligation which citizenship imposes. 

The source of every blessing, and itself the most valuable of all which 
America offers to the emigrant, is a degree of civil and political liber- 
ty, more ample and better secured in this republic, than any where 
in the whole world besides. 

The principles of liberty which are embodied in our frame of go- 
vernment and in our laws, branch out likewise through every depart- 
ment of society, mould our manners, and determine the character 
even of our domestic relations. They have the effect of producing, 
generally, in the deportment of individuals, who know neither su- 
periors nor inferiors, a certain degree of ease and dignity that is 
cquriUy removed from servility and arrogance. It is one of the prac- 
Ui:id results of those principles that the poorer classes in this coramu- 
Tiity are more civilized, more polite and friendly, though not so sub- 
missive, as persons of the same fortunes in Europe. They are also 
usually followed by impartial justice in the equal distribution of family 
property. Hence opulence is rarely seen to accumulate on one branch, 
wliile others languish in genteel beggary. As there is no where an 
aristocratic establishment, the amplitude of the community is never 
kjroken up into little compartments envious and contemptuous of each 
other. Lvery man's range of occupation is extended, while every 
state is held worthy of respect. Honest industry no where 'derogates, 
but the facility of providing for a family is every where enlarged. 

Nothing is more worthy of regard than the contrast between the 
general demeanor of EurDpoans living here, and what is alleged of the 
liame people , and others similar to them, whilst under the yoke of 
trans-ailantic governments. In New- York city alone, there are sup- 
posed to be not less than twelve thousand Irish, and the number of 
all other foreigners may probably be as many. The other great cities 
•f the United States have an equal proportion^ according to theiz 



HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 



639 



population ; and emigrants from the old world are settled, and in pro- 
gress of settlement, every where throughout the Union ; yet, here 
they are never accused of sedition or rebellion, or conspiracy against 
the government. They are never disarmed by a military force, and 
no magistrate trembles when they provide themselves with ammuni- 
tion. They are, indeed, among the most strenuous supporters of the 
government; and it is evident that a country may exist in the utmon 
good order, peace, and prosperity, under such a system of law as 
they are willing to maintain with their lives* It is manifest, there- 
fore, that if the laws were in Europe what they are here, Europe 
need not drive her children into exile. The same men who are called 
rebels there, are esteemed and tranquil citizens here, without having 
changed their nature or their sentiments. But here the law i* made 
by the majority, for the good of the greater number ; and for this 
reason, it is esientially equal and impartial. It prohibits nothing but 
whaiX is in itself morally wrong. Hence, there are fewer laws, and 
fewer transgressions; but when a veal transgression happens, an offen- 
ded community is always prompt to support the law ; for it then vin- 
dicates its own decision, and its own safety. It is often detested, 
because it seems to be the penalty of Providence, that inordinate 
power shall always corrupt the holder, an,d can never be possessed 
without being followed by such a train of evils, so much wretched- 
ness to those who endure, and so much depravity in those who exercise 
it: that it i* felt to be a forced statej and a j)erversic/a of nature., 



INDEX 



TO THE 



PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES, TOWNS, SEAS, RIVERS, ^c* 



MENTIONED IN THE FOREGOING WORK. 



i A. 








Pagr 






Page. 


Baliynahinch 


24S 


Ailsa Craig 




28 


Baltimore . . 137, 283 


Alabama river 




390 


Banks of Newfoundland 


262 


I Albany- 


107 


556 


Barnstaple 


93 


Albemarle sound 


, 


187 


Bass 


224 


Alexandria, D. C. 




156 


Batavia 


513 


1 , Ohio 




358 


Beardstown 


413 


AUeganj' river, 


30, 


318 


Bcargrass creek 


398 






305 
223 


Beauford 
Beaufort 


1S9 
200 


' Alnwick 




Altamaha river 




207 


Beaver 


336 


Alum creek 




425 


creek 


457 


Araboy 




293 


Bedford 


304 


Amherst 


, 


83 


Belfast 


234 


Annapolis 




14.2 


Bellepre , . 


351 


Appalachy river 


207 


274 


Bt-.nnington > 


86 


1 Appamattox tiver 




162 


Benson creek 


397 


Arkansas river 




tiSQ 


Bergen . . 


109 


Arran island 




28 


Bermudas . • 


30 


Ashley river 




200 


Berwick 


224 


Ashtabula rirer . 


465, 


469 


Bethlehem 


372 


Athens, Geo. 


, 


208 


Big Belly's creek 


425 


^ o. 




474 


Big Boneiick creek 


367 


Atlantic ocean 28, 54, 


210. 


257, 


Birmingham 


254 




2(51. 


262 


Black Mingo creek 


193 


Auburn 




527 


river, N. C, 


184 


Auchlermouchty 




233 


river, S. C. 


19.5 


, Au Glaise river 
Augusta, Geo. 




470 
2(57 




386 
390 


50, 


river. Miss. , 


, ~-,Ky. 




359 


river, Ohio 


461 


j . Avon 




518 


Rock 


489 


Ayr 


239, 


249 


Biaden»burg 


144 


1 B. 






Blannethassell's iland 


350 


Banbridge, Ire. 




242 


Bloody run . 


303 


, Oh. 


• 


421 


Bloonfield 


518 


Balientrae . 




230 


Blue lick 


409 


1 .'ialiston springs 




553 


Bolton 


221 



31 



6*2 



INDEX. 



Bonavista 
Bordentown 
Boston 

Brandywine creek 
Bristol, R. I. 
. Penn. 



British Possessions in North 

America 
Broarlalbia 
Brookficld 
Brooklyn 
BrownsTille 
Brunswick, Ver. 
, N. J. 



499 
113, 294. 

77 
135, 295 

70 
115, 294. 



Charleston, Mas'', 

, N. H. 

— , S. C. 

-. Va. 



Brush creek 
Buffalo 

— creek 

Bunker's hill 
Bun's mills 
Burlington, Ver. 

Burns' birth -place 

Bury 

Bvrana river 

C. 

Caledonia 
Cambahee river 
Cambridge, Mass. 
Canadavvay 
Canandaiguci . 

.. lake 

Caneserago hollow 
Canton 

Canton dis'trict 
Cape Breton 
_ Clear 

Fear 

Fear river 

Hatieras 

Look Out 

Carlisle, Penn. 

, Eng 

Cascades in Virginia 
CataraguK creek 
Caves in Virginia 
Cayahoga river 
Cayuga 

lake 

Chaavin river 
Chamber«;b\iv!? 
Chuuiplain, lake 



49 R 

550 

89 

56 

. 540 

86 

110,293 

421 

107, 485 

486 

79 

540 

86 

113,294 

249 

222 

102 

517 

200 

88 

482 

107, 519 
105 
530 
445 
446 
499 

212, 257 
187 
184 
187 
187 
298 
218 
167 
483 
168 
455 
527 
527 
451 
299 
105 



132, 

449, 
105, 



Charles river 
Charley 
CharlottesTiJle 
Chatahouchy river 
Chataughque lake 
Chesapeake bay 
Chesnut ridge 
Chester 

river , 

Chillicothe 
Chillicothe district 
Chippaway 

— — creek 

Choptank river 
Cincinnati 
Cincinnati district 
Clarksville 
Clear creek, Kv. 

, Ohio 

Cleveland . 

Clyde river 

Firth 

Cehoes falls 
Colchester 

Cf)lumbia, district of 
Columbia, S. C. 
Comptoii 

, Little 

Conaquencsing creek 
Concord, N. H. 

, Mas?» 

Conecuh 
Connecticut 

river 

reservation 

Coniiedogwinet creek 
Connecocheague creek 
Conewaco hilis 

— creek 

Conneought 

Cooper river 

Coosavv river . 

Coshocton 

Cashsakia 

Cove of Cork 

Craft >burv 

Cweir 

Cuniberland river 



207, 
137, 



Pag?. 

79 

83 

196 

339 

79 

221 

172 

390 

105 

141 

309 

255 

141 

42, -5 

424 

490 

490 

141 

361 

363 

37i! 

397 

428 

453 

25 

26 

555 

172 

152 

202 

70 

70 

324 

83 

93 

390 

98 

91 

457 

2j6 

30 i 

290 

296 

469 

200 

200 

441 

559 

212 

86 

229 

405 



INDEX. 



643 



Cumbernauld 
Cupar, Fife 

Dalkeith 

Dan bury 

Danville 

Darien 

Dayton 

Dedhara 

Deer creek 

Deerfield 

Delaware 

— river 

Derby creek 
Detiuit 
Donaghadee 
Dover, N. H. 

. Del. 

Duwningstown 
Downpauick 
Dromore 
Dumblane 
Dumfiies 
Dunbar 
Dundee 
Dundrum bay 
Durliara, N. H. 
-, Eng. 



D. 



114., 



Dysart 



E. 



Eagle creek 

East Canada creek 

East river 

Eden ton 

Edinburgh 

Edisto nvtr . 

Elizabethtown, N. J. 

Elk creek 

• river 

Ellicoll's creek 
Eokefanoke swamp 
Erie 

, lake 

Exeter 

F. 
Fairfield 
Falkland 
Falls of Niagara 
Falls of Ohio 



Page. 
228 
235 

251 
100 
413 
208 
475 

70 
425 
475 
139 
134,285, 294 
425 
462 
241, 248 

83 
136 
295 
248 
242 
228 
158 
224 
236 
241, 243 

83 
223 
234 

417 
547 
63 
189 
224, 237 
-200 
110 
296 
293 
480 
141 
510 
207 
480 
459 
83 



452, 



Falmouth 
Fayetteville 
Firth of Forth 

of Tay 

Fishkill 
Flint river 
Fort Mandan 

Niagara 

Schlosser 

Williams 

Forth and Clyde canal 

Fox river 

Frank ford 

Frankfort 

Franklinton 

Fredericksburg 

Frederiekiown . 

French grant 

Frenchtuwn 

French creek 



Gall 



G. 



lopolis 



Gap Hill 
Gennessee river 
Geneva 
Georgia 
George, lake 
Georgetown, Del. 
, D. C. 

-; va. ■ 

, Kv. 



§8 
236 
491 
378 



Gerardeau 

German ocean 

Girvan 

Glades 

Glasgow 

Gnadenhutten 

Grand island 

Niagara 

river 

Greenock 
GreensbuTg, Geo. 

, Penn. 

Green river 
Greenwich, East 
Gietna Green 
Gulf Stream 
Gutgatsink creek 

H. 
Hackensaciv river 



Page. 
172 

185 
234 
236 
559 
207 
385 
496 
509 
293 
228 
393 
115 
397 
475 
158 
142 
358 
285 
141 

•35* 

295 

105, 517 

.107, 524 

200 

105 

'136 

146 

195 

337 

41S 

387 

22S 

23S> 

307 

25, 22^ 

443 

490 

506 

464 

26 

263 

310 

412 

70 

219 

33 

434 

10!^ 



6i4> 



INDEX. 



Haddington 
Hagarslown 
Halifax, N. C. 

, Eng. 

, N. S. 

Hallowell 
Hamilton, Scot. 

, Ohio 

Hampton 
Hanover 



Court House 
-, Vir. 



Harmony 
Harrisburg • 

Harlem 
Hartford, Con. 

, N. Y. 

Havre de Grace 
Hell Gate 
Herkimer 
Hilisborojigb, N. C. 

, Ire. 

Hills in Connecticut 
Hockhocking river 
Holland purchase 
Hcneoye creek 
Horseneck . 

Housatonic river 
Hsyle, lake 
Hudson 

— liver 

Huron, lake 

river 

I. 
Illinois river 

territory 

Indiana Territory 

Ipswich 

islands in Lake Erie 

J. 
Jacksonbovough 
Jamaica, L. I. 
James river 
.lefiVrsonville 
Jersey 
Johnstown 
Jonathan creek 
Juniata river 

K. 
Kanhaway river 



100 

224 
142 
189 
222 
499 
195 
220 
475 
172 
83 
159 
172 
321 
291 
102 
96 
533 
291 
63 
107, 545 
189 
242 
99 
429 
512 
518 
102 
98 
213 
105, 559 
105 
462 
461 

383 
383 
381 
93 
400 

41 
2f)9 
161 
378 
109 
549 
430 
130, 302 

166, 354 



Kanhaway, Little 
Kansas river 
Kaskaskia 

river 

Katskill 

Keene 

Kendal 

Keneconeck creek 

Kentucky • 

river 



Killbucks creek 

Kills 

Kilmarnock 

Kinderhook 

Kingliorn 

Kingston, N. J. 

, Upper Canada 

, N. Y. 

Kirkaldy 
Knoxville 

L. 
Lancaster, Penn. 

, Eng. 

Langholm 
Lansingburg 
Laurel Hill 
Lebanon 
Leeds 

Lehigh river 
Leicester 
Le Roy 
Letari's falls 
Lewistown, Del. 

, N. Y. 

Lexington' 
Lickirig rjver 

crtek 

Lifnestone . 
Litchfield 
Little falls 
Lisburn 

Liverpool • 

Loch Ryan 
Locherby , 

Lomond hills 
London . 

Long Island 

sound 

Long Reach • 
Longtown . 
Loui;bur"f . 



PageJ 

; 166 

380 

383 

383 

S59 

83 

218 

f 427 

411 

372, 598, 412 

434 



2y3 
238 
559 
234 
110 
501 

234 
400 



132, 



290 
217 
251 
107 
300 
475 
222 
129 
89 
517 
353 
136 
503 
401 
412 
434" 
359, 411 
99 
54^» 
243 
214, 255 
239 
219 
236 
252 
269 
63 
342 
219 
499 



104, 



112 



* .~ - 



INDEX. 61-5 

Pago. Page. 

Louisiana ." 388 Moin river . . 380 

, Territory 385 Monongahela 130 317 

Louisville, Geo. . 45 362 Motitpellier . 80 

, , Ken. . 377 Montreal . 500 

Lower Canada . 500 Morgantown . 189 

Lutnberton . 186 M>rpeth . . 228 

Lynche's creek . . 192 Mountains in New Hampshire, 82 

Lynn . 80 in Vermont 85 

M. in Miissachnsetts 92 

Maclii^s . . 95 in New Yo»k 104' 

Madison, Georgia , 264 — in Pennsylvania 122 

, Ind. T. 372 in Marj-land 14-1 

Maine, District of . 95 in Virginia ]66 

Maiden . . 501 in North Caralina 187 

Manchester, Vir. 86 in South Carolitiu 200 

I >Virg. , 172 — in Georgia 207 

ling- 221 IR Tennessee 405 

Ohio . 359 in Kentucky 412 



Manlios Fquare ':-, 530 in Louisiana 385 

Maple swamp . 192 Mud creek . . 450 

Marblehead . . Ol Muskingum river . 347 433 

Marietta . . 34.4 Muthil . . 223 

Marietta district . 348 Mystic river , 79 

Marlborough . 89 N. 

Maryland , . 140 Nanticoke river . Ml 

Massachusetts . 92 Narragansel bay . (>7 

Maltapony river . 159 Narrows at New York 56 

M*Conntrstown . 302 Nashville . . 406 

Meherrin rirer . 161- Natcises . . 392 

Methven . 229 Natural bridge in Virginia 162 

Mexicano tiver , 388 Newark, N, J. . 110 

Miami river . :iQ3 461 , O. . 475 

-of the lakes 470 , U. C. . 496 501 



bay . 470 , bay , 293 

country . 303 Newbsrn . . Ib9 

Michigan, lake . 462 New Brunswick . 499 

Territory 462 Newburij . 107 558 

Michilimackinac stiails 462 Ne■•^b'J!y . . 86 
Middiebury . . 86 Newbiiryp^'rt . 93 
Middleton,Con. . 100 Newcastle, De]. . 135 285 
, Pa. . 296 , Va. . 172 



' , Ken. . 397 , Eng, . 223 

Milledgeviile . 208 , Ire, . . 244 

]\'Ullersburg . . 409 New Comerslowii . 442 

MiilfcrJ . . 98 Ncwfane . 86 

Milton . .551 Newfoufidland . 499 

Mississippi river . 393 New Hampshire . 82 

Territory 390 Newhaven . 97 

Missouri river , 385 New Jersey . 112 

, Little 386 Lisbon . . 474 

Mohawk river . 105 London . 64 99 

Mohecan John's cretk 434 — —Lancaster . 428 

Moflat ♦ . 219 Madrid . 3i,7 



646 

Orleans 

Philadelphia 

"Newport, R.I. 

.Ky. 

Newry . 
Kevviown, L. I. 
New Y«rk 
city 56 



INDEX. 



102 



364 



259 
272 



Niagara, Fort 

river 

Nimshillen cieek 

Norfolk 

Northampton 

North Carolina • 

■ Berwick law 

— n'lounlain 

Northallerton 

North west Territory 

Norwalk 

Norwich 

Nose 

Notch 

Nottaway river . 

Notiinj^hatn ^ . 

Nova Scotia 

Nase river . . 

O, 
Oaktnulgee river 
Occoquhan creek • 

Oconee river 
Ogeeche river 

, little 

Ohio river, . 335 37c 
Oliio company's purchase 
Ohio, state of 
Oueida Lake 

_» river 

Oaondago lake • 

— court-bouse . 

hollow 

salt works 

Ontario county 

Ormskirk 

Oi leans Territory 

Osage river 

Ouiscousirt river • 

Owasca lake 

Oxlord 

P. 
Paiot creek 

Pa'sley « • 

Pamlico soaqd 



Page. 
389 
4-43 

05 
413 
2i2 
269 
104 
268 
559 
496 
504 
445 
171 

93 
187 
224 
301 
223 
384 

98 

99 
547 

82 
164 
252 
499 
183 

207 
157 
207 

207 
207 
416 
347 
470 
105 
105 
105 
529 
529 
529 
521 
217 
388 
386 
384 
105 
254 

422 

25 

187 



Pamunky river 
Paris 

Pasagoula 
Passaic river 
Passamaquoddy 
Patapsco river t 

creek 

Pauihead 
Patterson . 

Patucket 

liver 

Patuxent river 
Pearl river 
Pedee river, big 

, little 

Peekskill 

Pennsylvania 

Pemiili 

Perth 

Petersburg, Vir. 

Petersburg, (Jeo. 

Philadelphia 

Piscataqua river 

Pittsburg 

fittsfield 

Placeutia 

Piatt river _ . 

Pocomoke river 

Point Pleasant 

Port Glasgow 

Portland 

Portaferry 

Port Patrick 

Royal 

Portsmouth, N. 11 . 

, Vir. 

, Ohio 

Port William 
Potomac river 
Poughkeepsie 
Prt scott 
Preston . 
Princeton 
Providence 
river 



116 



280 
132 



239 



107 
111 



Q. 

Quarantine ground, N. Y. 56 

Quebang river 

Quebec 

Queenstown 

R. 
Raisin river . v 

Raleigh . • 



rage. 
159 

40S 
390 
109 

95 
141 
143 
235 
113 

73 

73 
141 
390 
192 
191 
559 
128 
218 
233 
163 
208 
294 

82 
314 

93 
499 
386 
141 
354 

95 
248 
249 
172 

83 
172 
35$ 
372 
146 
559 
221 
217 
293 

67 

67 

259 

89 

500 

501 

462 
184 



Rapids of Niagara river 
Rappahannock river 
Ranton river 
Ray's Hill 

Mills 

Reading 

Reedy treek 

Redhook 

Red river . 

Rhode Island 

Richmond 

springs, Geo. 48 

Roanoke river . 

Rochdale 

Rocky river . 455 

Rolling river 

Rome 

Russelville , { 

Rutland 

Rye . 

Rynbeck 

S. 

Sabine river 
Socket's harbour 
Salem, Mas?. 

,N. J. 

, N. C. 

Salt creek 
Sandy Hook 
Sandy river. Big 

— - creek, O. 

. N, Y. 

Sandusky bay 461 

— — river . 461 
Santee river 
Sassafras river 

Savannah 3,5 205 

-*- — — river 31 37 52 'A 



Scioto river 
Shenectady 
Schoyikiil 
Scrub Hill 
Sea islands 
Selkirk 
Seneca lake 



35& 



105 



Shap fells 

Sheffield 

Shelby ville 

Shfnandnah river 

Shippensburtt 

Shippingporl 

Shoenbruii 



INDEX. 647 

Page. Page- 

490 Shrewsbury . 255 

159 Sidling Hill . . 302 

293 Sidney, Cape Breton . 499 

302 Sippo creek . 425 

26G Skeneateless . 105 528 

132 lake . 105 

191 Skerries lights . 257 
559 Smithfield . . 172 
386 Somerset . . 307 

69 South Carolina . 199 

160 Kingston . 70 

267 Sparta . . 208 263 

183 Spencer . . 89 

222 Springfield, Mass. . 91 

461 -^ , O. . 430 

412 St, Albans . . 8(> 
107 — Charles . 387 

413 — Clair, lake . 462 
86 — Ciairsvrlle . 474 

102 — Francis river . 3Sr> 

559 — Hero . 8U 

— John*s, N. F. - . 499 

386 — Jahn's Isliud . 499 

538 — Louis . . 387 

80 — Mary's , , 208 

113 river . 207 

189 Siamfoi-d . 98 

425 Staien Island 101 271 

55 Statistical laUlf of Ohio 472 

412 of N.York 560 

357 of U. States 567 

540 Staunton , . 172 

470 Stcubenville . 337 

470 district . 337 

192 Stillwater creek . 434 
141 Stirling . . 228 
261 Stockbridge . 93 
205 Stony fiver . . 383 

425 point . 558 

107 Stratloid , . 254 

127 Straiigtord . 218 

302 Sudbury . . 89 

207 Softield . , 91 

251* Sulh.lk . . 172 

*24 Sugar rre(k- . . 431< 

527 Sullivan's Island , 2m 

218 Suscjiiehaunah river 129 297 

252 Swatawra creek . 29^i 

397 Swimming cretk \ . 190 

166 S^iss vineyards . 371 

298 Symmea* purchase SG3 
378 T. 

443 Tache river . iJSS 



648 

Tai borough 
Tarhou 
Tar rivtr 
Taunton 

liver 

Tennessee 

liver . 3!)0 

Thames river 

Tiakcr's creek 

Tieg" iiver 

Tipnicanoe river 

Tolland . . 

Tory islanJ 

Tone wanta creek 509 

Trade winds; 

Trenton 

bridge 

Troy 

Tunibfckby river 
Tuille creek 

Tuscarawa river . 

Toscar rock . • 

Tybee li^hi-hotise 
U. 
United States 

Upper Canada . 4S9 

Urbauna, Va. 
Utica 

V. 
Vermillion river 
Veruiont 

Versailles . 400 

Vincennes 
Virginia 
Viryitiia n)i!itarv lands 

'VV. 
Vv"aba*.h river 
Wakatcniica creek 
'\Vakcf!e'(J 
Wullingiord 
Walnut creek,. O. 

, Fcnr. 3C5 

Vv^altham 

Warren, K. f. 

W^arreiiicn, N C. 

V/arringlon, Eng. 

Wairen, O. 

Washington . l^t 

\ G.'io. 2C8 

, Penn. 

Watertown, Mass. . 



INDEi. 



Page. 
189 
428 
183 
93 
d? 
405 
405 

9y 

450 
l2t) 
381 
100 

28 
511 

32 
123 
114 
107 
29) 
310 
41-8 
212 
205 

561 
501 
172 

582 

461 
85 
413 
382 
162 
427 

381 
440 
251 

97 
425 
480 

88 

70 
183 
221 
474 
•286 
189 
266 
411 

88 



Walerford . 107 

Wattrtovvn, N. Y. 

Way nesborcugh . 144 

Weaihersfield 

Weilborough . 

West Canada creek 

West Coast of Scotland 

V/estern 

county 

Weston 

West Union 

Wheeling . 172 239 

White moantaiiis 

White river 

Whets'io;ie river 

White Woman's creek 

Williamsburtr, Va. 

:, o. 

WiliiLinislovvn 

Will's creek 

Wilmingion, DJ. 136 

,N. C. 

Wilton 

Wind ^ in the Atlantic 

Windsor, Ver. 

, Cot). 

Windham . • 

Winchesler, Vir. 

, Ken. 

Winnipiseo::tee lake, 

Wiscassel 

Wcrteaitr 

Woodbridga 

Woilinnfc,iui» 

Y. 
Yankey Toan 
Yazoo river 
Yellow Breeches creek 
YelloVv stone tiver 
York, Pu. 
— :. — , Mass. 

, Va. 

, Upper Canada 

. Isianil 

, River 

Yoxhio^rtni river 



Zine.-ville 



district 



Zeiicr.ople 
Ztnia 



Page 

55^ 

540 

267 

100 

89 

5 45 

249 

90 

309 

89 

420 

340 

82 

381 

425 

434. 

172 

475 

540 

434 

291 

189 

193 

32 

80 

§ti 

100 

172 

413 

82 

95 

89 

110 

475 

442 
290 
2y8 
38G 
132 
95 
172 
501 
102 
159 
, 131 

430 
433 
333 

475 



FINIS". 







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